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Canadian  Inatituta  for  Historical  MIcroraproductlons  /  Inst'tut  Canadian  A%  microraproductlona  historiquaa 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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D 


D 


D 
D 
D 
D 

D 


D 


Coloured  covers/ 
Couverture  de  couleur 


r~~|    Covers  damaged/ 


Couverture  endommagde 


Covers  restored  and/or  laminated/ 
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etc.,  ont  At*  filmdes  A  nouveau  de  fa^on  h 
obtenir  la  meilleuro  image  possible. 


T 
tc 


T 

P 
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fi 


O 
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si 
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fii 
sii 

or 


T» 
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Ti 

wl 

M 
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be 
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mi 


This  item  is  filmed  at  the  reduction  ratio  checked  below/ 

Ce  document  est  filmi  au  taux  da  rMuctlon  indiqui  oi-dessoua. 


10X 

ux 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

J 

12X 


10X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


aire 
details 
ues  du 
t  modifier 
ger  une 
)  filmage 


The  copy  filmed  liere  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Library, 

Department  of  National  Defence 

The  images  appearing  here  are  the  best  quality 
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gAnirositi  de: 

Bibliothdque, 

IMinittdre  de  la  DMente  Nationale 

Les  images  suivantes  ont  iti  reproduites  avec  le 
plus  grand  soin,  compte  tenu  de  la  condition  et 
de  la  nettet*  de  lexemplaire  film«,  et  en 
conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


/ 
i6e8 


Originel  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
beginning  with  the  front  cover  and  ending  on 
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sion, or  the  back  cover  when  eppropriate.  All 
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first  page  with  a  printed  or  illustrated  impres- 
sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
or  illuatrated  impreasion. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  eech  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — »>  (meening  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  ▼  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
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par  le  premier  plat  et  an  terminant  soit  par  la 
derniire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
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plat,  salon  le  cas.  Tous  les  autres  exemplaires 
originaux  sont  filmis  en  commandant  par  la 
premiire  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
d'impression  ou  d'iliustration  at  an  terminant  par 
la  darniire  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 

Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaltra  sur  la 
derniire  imege  de  cheque  microfiche,  solon  le 
cas:  Is  symboie  -^  signifie  'A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  ▼  signifie  "FIN". 


ire 


Mapa,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  pienches,  tableaux,  etc.,  peuvent  Atre 
fiimis  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffirents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  Atre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  I'angle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  k  droite, 
et  de  haut  en  bes,  sn  prenant  le  nombre 
d'imeges  nAcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrsnt  la  mithoda. 


ly  errata 
sd  to 

nt 

ne  palure, 

ipon  A 


f        i        • 


32X 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

■I    T 


f 


TRATELS 


iir 


CANADA, 


AND 


THE    UNITEB    STATES, 


IV 


1816  AND  1817. 


By  Lieut.  FRANCIS   HALL, 

14tII   light    DHAQOONg,    II,  P. 


i 

i 

1 

1 

1 
1 

• 

. 

\ 

X. 

1 

L 

it 

BOSTON  : 

RE-PrHMSHRI)  Viuni  TIIH  I.nNDON  IDITION 
By  Wi'lU  and  Lilly. 

1818. 


U  -^ 


F 


! 


)i 


\ 


TO 


WILLIAM  BATTIE  WRIGHTSON, 


WILLIAM  EMPSON, 


AND 


ROBERT  MONSEY  ROLFE, 


BROTHER   WYKEHAMISTS, 


THESE   TRAVELS, 


ARE    DEDICATED, 


BY 


TBKIR  OLD  8CB00L-FEL10W 


AND  AmeilONATE   rRIEND, 


FRANCIS   HALL. 


1 1^ 


*W.4.^ji-^^ 


TRAVELS    IN    CANADA, 


&c.  &c. 


CHAPTER  I. 


VOYAGE. 


January,  1816. 

I  SAILED  from  Liverpool  on  the  20tli  of  Jiiniiaiy,  af- 
ter having  been  detained  several  weeks  by  a  continu- 
ance of  west  winds,   which  usually  prevail   through 
the  greater  part  of  the  winter.     Indeed,  they   liave 
become  so  prevalent  of   late   years,   as    to  aj>proach 
very  nearly  to  the   nature   of  a   trade   wind.     They 
forced  us  to  lie  to,  twelve,  out  of  the  lorty-foiu-  days 
we  spent  on  our  passage.     Our  vessel   was  an  Ame- 
rican, excellently  built  and  comniande<l.     The  Ame- 
rican Captains  are   supposed,  with    some   reason,   to 
make  quicker  voyages  than  the  English,  with  whom 
celerity  was,  during  the  war,  a  less  essential  object. 
They  pride  themselves  on  the  speed  of  their  ships 
as  sportsmen  do  on  that  of  their  horses.     Our  Mi- 
nerva was  one  of  the  first  class  of  these  '*  Horses  of 
the  Main."     They  prefer  standing  across  the  Atlan- 
tic in  the  direct  line  of  their  port,  to  the   easier  but 
more   tedious  route  of  the   trades.      Tiiis    sporting 
spirit  commonly   costs  their  passengers  a  itvi  (jiialms 
of  the  stomach,  but  saves  time ;    no  trifling  conside- 
ration, when  time  is  so  miserably  spent. 

Landsmen,  who  shrink  from  the  seemingly  endless 
breadth  of  the  whole  Atlantic,  commonly  divide  it 
into  three  distances,  viz.  :  the  Azores,  the  Banks, 
and  Soundings.     Nothing  occurred  to  make  the  lati- 


,.  ( 


<f 


\ 


\  -7 
1. 


'•■y- 


! 


a 


VOYAGE. 


tude  of  the  Azores  cognizable  by  terrestrial  eyes  ; 
but  the  discoioiiiing  of  the  water,  and  a  heavy  in- 
cnmbent  fog  sufficiently  evinced  our  approach  to  the 
Banks  ;  these  symptoms  were  accompanied  by  the 
usual  degree  of  cold,  which  indicates  the  proximity 
of  land,  whether  above  the  water  or  below  it.  We 
made  the  following  observations  on  the  temperature 
in  this  neighbourhood : 


P 


l\ 


*    ', 


i 


Time. 

Air, 

Water. 

Feb.  14. 

6    t>.    M. 

6e» 

590 

IS. 

9    A.  M. 

53» 

480 

10   A.  M. 

dO> 

430 

11    A.   M. 

480 

330 

I    F.  M. 

480 

33« 

6   P.  M. 

380 

320 

ID. 

10   A.  M. 

370 

330 

Stundings  35  feet. 

17. 

10   A.  M. 

380 

57* 

2  p.  M. 

400 

570 

18. 

9    A.  M. 

«20 

640 

19. 

12  A.  M. 

•00 

61«* 

* 


We  had  eagerly  anticipated  a  regale  of  cod  Bsh  on 
the  Banks  ;  lines  were  thrown  out,  and  the  silver 
mail  of  one  victim  soon  glistened,  as  he  ascended 
through  the  green  wave ;  but,  alas !  he  proved  no 
harbinger  of  fortune,  and  it  seemed  as  if  he  had  been 
made  the  cat's  paw  of  his  mute  society,  who,  by  no 
means  satis6ed  with  the  result  of  their  first  experi- 
ment, refused  unanimously  to  repeat  it.  Luckily  we 
were  not  imitating  the  heroes  of  the  "  Almanack  des 
Govrmands^^*  who  in  ohi  and  modern  days,  have  made 
the  grand  tour  of  gluttony  for  the  express  purpose 
of  surfeiting  themselves  at  every  classick  spot  with 
the  delicacy  which  had  won  its  renown. 

*  Some  of  these  variations  seem  to  indicate  the  Tempera- 
ture ot"  the  Gulf  stream,  into  which  we  were  sometimes  forced 
by  the  prevalence  of  MT.  W.  wimls.  without  knowiug  It;  the 
Americau  f-aptains  very  comiooDly  use  the  Thermometer  to 
ascertain  this  circumstance. 


... 


""    T"''  .V| 


TOTAGE. 


On  Ihe  27tb,  we  touched  on  the  Gulf  Stream, 
where  it  flows  round  the  Bank,  and  made  the  follow- 
ing observations :  — 


Air. 

Water. 

Long. 

Lat. 

April  27. 

11    A.M. 

52" 

G-l" 

64<»  w. 

30C  34'  .N. 

28. 

fl    A.  M. 

53" 

ija" 

29. 

10    A.  M. 

60« 

54" 

68"  w. 

39(»  22'  N 

March  1. 

12    A.   M. 

520 

■IS" 

70»  w. 

390  30'  N 

e. 

10    A.  M. 

49* 

45" 

It  is  to  this  difference  of  temperature  betwixt  the 
Gulf  Stream  and  the  adjacent  waters,  that  M.  Vohiey 
attributes  the  Bank  fogs.  He  observes,  (Tome  1, 
Page  238,) 

"  //  en  doit  risulter  Ic  double  rffd  dhtne  evaporation  plus 
'■^  ahondanie,  provoquec  par  la  tiidatr  di  as  caiix  cxoUqucs 
"  et  d''unc  condensation  plus  etcnduc,  a  raison  dc  la  J'roidmr 
" des  caux  indigims  et  dc  leiir  alinosphere,  qui  precisemcnt 
"  se  trouve  dans  la  direction  des  vents  du  nord-cstJ'''* 

There  is  some  difficulty  in  this  part  of  the  voyage, 
to  escape  the  action  of  Ihe  stream  to  Ihe  south,  which 
soon  begins  to  be  sensible,  and  at  the  same  time  to 
avoid  the  dangerous  shoals  of  Nantucket  to  the  north. 

I  felt  little  concern  about  Nantucket,  at  this  time, 
except  to  keep  at  a  respectful  distance  from  it  ;  but 
I  have  since  met  with  some  interesting  particulars 
relative  to  this  inglorious  little  island.  Its  inhabi- 
tants are  reckoned  at  5000,  some  of  whom  are  worth 
20,000L  er-h.  It  contains  23,000  acres  of  land,  and 
was  origiiuiiiy  possessed  by  the  Nantucks,  an  In- 
dian tribe,  some  of  whom  still  remain  on  it,  having 
peaceably  incorporated  with  the  Europeans,  and 
joined  in  their  occupations.  The  soil  was  originally 
a  barren  sand,  but  the  industry  of  the  inhabitants  has 

*  Vide  Humboldt's  Observations  on  tlie  Variations  of  Tem- 
perature in  tlie  Gulf  Stream,  and  on  the  Bank. — "  Personal 
Narrativft'^  vol.  1,  page  50.  He  ol)serves  a  diflerence  olnuly 
13«  between  them.  This  was  in  Juiic.  Fide,  also,  M.  Vol- 
aey's  Table  of  experiments,  page  23."),  in  ivhich  the  fi;rralesl 
diflerence  is  23o.     Ours  was  31<*. 


W^"**"'*'  ■ 


rr'i^J 


■V" 


— •*«•■-'" 


8 


VOYAGE. 


\  i 


'f 


made  it  capable  of  pasturing  large  flocks  of  sheep, 
which  constituted,  in  the  infancy  of  the  settlement,  a 
co.ninon  stock,  but  their  chief  employment  is  whale- 
\ng,  at   which  they  are  equally  diligent  and   daring  ; 
doii!jlin!i  Cape  Horn  in  pursuit  of  their  game.     The 
prolils  of  (his  trade  afford  them  both  the  necessaries 
and   coiiifoifs   of  life.     The   luxuries  are   forbidden 
both  by  their  character  and  religion,  which  is  unmix- 
ed Presbylerianism.     The  only  recreation  they  used 
to  allow  themselves,  was  driving  in  parties  to  a  little 
spof,  which  they  rescued  from  barrenness,  converted 
info  a  kind  of  publick  garden.     The  traveller,  from 
whom  I  borrow  this  account,  gives  a  lively  picture  of 
their  hospitality,  and  of  the  simplicity  of  their  man- 
ners,* which  supersedes  the  necessity  of  those  inven- 
tions and  restraints  so  inefficient  in  more  polished  so- 
cieties.    The  whole  commimity  affords  an  admirable 
instance  of  what  human   industry  will  effect,   when 
left  to    the    unshackled    direction  of  its   own    exer- 
tions.    They  have,   particularly  the  women,  an  odd 
habit  of  taking  a  small  quantity  of  opium  every  morn- 
ing.    It  is  difficult  to  divine  whence  they  have  im- 
ported this  unwholesome  luxury. f     The  only  books 
this  traveller  found  in  the  island,  except  the  bible, 
where  Hudibras  and  Josephus  ;  many  of  the  inhabi- 
tants could  repeat  lines  of  the  former,  without  having 
much  notion  to  what  they  referred.     Martha's  vine- 
yard is  a  settlement  of  much  the  same  kind  as  Nan- 
tucket.    It  derives  its  name    from    that   part  of  it 
which  was  originally  the  portion  of  the  first  settler's 
danghfc.     They   formerly   constituted   part   of  the 
Slafe  of  New  York,  but  now  of  Massachusetts. 

The  last  few  days  of  our   passage  were  blest   with 
such  favouring  gales,  and  an  atmosphere  so  warm  and 

*  Mc  mentions  a  great  outcry  raised  in  the  commonwealth, 
l)y  the  luxury  of  a  spring  waggon. 


1 1  hat^e  since  heard  it  remarked,  that  this  practice  is  very 


general  in  America. 


^^^*i1V.;^S^■>5.,. 


^.-.v.. 


.^* 


VOYAGE. 


9 


iheep, 
ent,  a 
whale- 
iring  ; 
The 
Bsariea 
j'ldden 

unuaix- 
y  used 
a  little 
iverted 
r,  from 
;ture  of 
lir  man- 
3  inven- 
ilied  so- 
Irnirable 
t,  when 
n   exer- 
,  an  odd 
ry  morn- 
ave  ira- 
,y  books 
le  bible, 

inhabi- 
t  having 

s  vine- 
fas  Nan- 
|rt  of  it 

iettler's 
of  the 
its. 

ist  with 

Lrm  and 


bright  that  the  sea  gods  seeri)ed   resolved  we  should 
part  good  friends.  —  LFiiluckily  liiis  gleam  of  good  for- 
tune was  extinguished  in  a  cold  heavy  fog,  when  we 
approached  the   Aiiierican  coast,  by  which  we   were 
deprived  of  the  lovely   prospect  which  opens  upon 
the   entrance  of   the    harLour  of  New    York.      \\e 
anchored  close  to  the  quays,  and  eagerly  began  to 
escape  from  the   place  of  our   durance,    which    Dr. 
Johnson  flallers  \\i  oi!  I.e  st\  !c-<  ''  it  a  prison,  with  a 
chance    of   being  drowned.''     The  chance  of  being 
drowned   forms  the  least  of  its    njiseiics.     In   most 
cases  it  is  a  complete  annihilation  of  all  faculties,  both 
of  mind  and  body  :   perhaps  I  should  except  that  of 
mastication,  which  went  on,  generally  with  great  vig- 
our, during  the  whole  of  I  he  Aoyage. — I  owe  honour 
able    mention   to  our "   C'ou:pi(gno)is  de    Voyage, 
who,  though  of  many  trades  and  nations,  united  in 
the  maintenance  of  harmony,  and  in  support  of  the 
general  weal.     We  were  about  eighteen  in  number; 
among  whom  were  several    Americans,  who  contri- 
buted their  full  share  of  good  humour  and  sociability. 
We  disputed  for  the  honour  of  our  countries,  but  our 
disputes  invariably  ended,  as,  it  were  to  be  wished, 
all  national  disputes  should  end,  in  a  hearty  laugh  ; 
and  when  1  saw,  during  these  forty-four  days,  how 
easily   the  jarring  elements  of  our  body  corporate 
blended  for  general  convenience,  I  was  induced  to 
i:hink  thd  rulers  of  the  Earth  take  too  much  both  pains 
and  credit  unto  themselves,  for  holding  together  the 
patch-work  of  society. 


j> 


',i 


\ 


[  10 


CHAPTER    II. 


NEW  YORK. 


March  5th, 

JN  EW  York  is  built  on  the  tongue  of  land,  at  the 
point  of  which  the  Hudson  and  East  rivers  effect 
their  junction.  The  principal  street  (Broadway) 
runs  along  the  ridge,  and  terminates  in  a  small  pa- 
rade, planted  with  trees,  designed  originally  for  a  bat- 
tery ;  a  destiny  it  fulfilled  during  the  war ;  but  since 
"  tlie  piping  time  of  peace,"  it  has  again  reverted  to 
the  occupancy  of  fashionable  pedestrians,  and  moon- 
light lovers. — From  this  point  the  eye  commandSi 
towards  the  left,. the  coast  of  Long  Island,  with  the 
wooded  heights  of  Brooklyn ;  on  the  right,  Sandy- 
Hook,  with  the  mounfain  shores  of  Jersey  ;  while 
the  mouth  of  the  Bay  lies  before  it,  studded  with 
bastioned  islands,  and  gay  with  the  white  canvas  of 
the  American  river  craft,  glancing  like  graceful  sea- 
birds  through  their  native  element.  From  Broad- 
way, streets  diverge  irregularly  to  either  river,  an4 
terminate  in  extensive  warehouses,  and  quays,  con- 
stantly crowded.  The  houses  are  generally  good, 
frequently  elegant,  but  it  requires  American  eyes  to 
discover  that  Broadway  competes  with  the  finest 
streets  of  London  or  Paris.  New  York  is  reckoned 
to  contain  at  present  about  100,000  inhabitants,  and 
is  spreading  rapidly  northward.  I  was  told  that 
2000  houHcs  were  contracted  for,  to  be  built  in  the 
ensuing  year.  There  are  fifty  churches,  or  chapels, 
of  iiitferent  sects  ;  a  proof  that  a  national  church  il 
not  indispensable  for  the  maintenance  of  religion. 


NE\fr    YORK. 


11 


The  Town  Hall  is  an  elegant   building  of  white 
marble,  standing  at  right  angleii  to  Broadway.      The 
plot  of  ground  in  front  of  it  is  railed  round  and  plant- 
ed.    The  inferior  is  well  arranged  for  the  purposes  of 
business.     The  state  rooms  of  the  Mayor  and  Cor- 
poration are  ornamented  with  the  portraits  of  several 
of  the  Ciovernours  of  New  York,  and  whole  lengths  of 
the  officers  most  distinguished  during  the  late  war. 
Some   of  these   seemed    well  executed  ;    but  if  the 
State  should  always  reward  upon  as  large  a  scale, 
their  future  heroes  must  consent  to  occupy  the  gar- 
rets of  the  building.     There  is  a  good  portrait  of  the 
first  Dutch  Governourof  the  State.     That  of  Colum- 
bus  was  repairing.     It  is  a  considerable   defect  in 
this  building;,  that  the   basement  story  is  of  a  red 
granite,  which,  at  a  distance,  has  the  appearance  of 
brick.     The  staircase  is  circular,  lighted  by  a  cupo- 
la, and,  in  the  style  of  its  construction,  not  unlike 
that  of  Drury-lane  theatre.    The  state  rooms,  and 
courts  of  justice  are  on  <he  first  floor.     The  sessions 
court   was  sitting  during  my  visit,   and  1   went  in. 
My  first  impression  arose  from  the  truly  republican 
plainness  of  justice,  stripped  of  all  *'  po(np  and  cir- 
cumstance," flowing  wigs,  ermine,  and  silk  gowns. 
Both  the  Judges  and  Counsellors  were  in  the  dress 
of  private  gentlemen,  the  latter  hardly  to  be  distin- 
guished from  the  spectators,  who,  with^t  much  ce- 
retnony,  crowded  round  the  tribunal.  ''A  female  was 
tried  for  stealing  several  hundred  dollars ;  she  wan 
found  guilty,  and  sentenced  to  imprtf(onment.     The 
punishment  of  death  is  abolished  in  (he  slate  of  New 
York   in  all  cases,  except  murder  and  arson  :  other 
crimes    are    punished    by    confincnent    and    labour. 
To  America  belongs  the  glory  d(  having  first  made 
the  experiment  of  the  least  waste  of  life  with  which 
society   can  be   preserved.     The  General   Hospital 
and  Lunatic   Asylum  are  contiguous   buildings.       1 
had  an  opportunity  of  visiting  them  with  one  of  the 
Physicians,  and  was  pleased  to  observe  the  feeling 


jfc'  ■• 


r!  [i 


I  ^ 


I' 


1 1 


> 


i  \ 


19 


NEW    YORK. 


kindness  of  bis  manner  towards  the  unfortunate  vic- 
tims of  insanity,  wiio  seemed  to  greet  hirn  as  a 
friend.  One  pat  lent  was  pointed  on!  to  us,  wh<9se 
delusion  consisted  in  imagining  himself  black. 

I  spent  an  evening  at  the  theatre.  It  is  a  shabby 
building  without,  and  poorly  li<^hted  and  decorated 
within.  The  play  was  Coiumhus,  a  wretched  hash 
of  dillerent  plays  and  siorics,  uuserably  acted.  The 
audience,  like  that  of  a  Portsmouth  theatre,  consisted 
almost  entirely  of  men. — 1  saw  nothing  resembling  a 
Lady  in  the  house,  auil  but  few  females.  The  Ame- 
ricans are  generally  con^idered  to  have  little  taste  for 
the  drama  ;  or  for  musick,  beyond  what  is  necessary 
for  a  dance  ;  dancing  being  iti  New  York,  as  in  most 

{larts  of  the  world,  the  favoinite  amusement  of  the 
adies  ;  they  dance  cotillions,  because  they  fancy  they 
excel  in  French  dances,  and  despise  country  dances 
for  the  same  reoson.  The  young  men  have  the  cha- 
racter of  being  dissipated,  living  much  apart  from 
their  families  in  boarding  houses.  Good  dinners  are 
in  high  esteem  in  the  upper  commercial  circles,  and 
I  had  occasion  to  bear  witness  both  to  the  skill  of 
their  cooks,  and  the  hospitality  of  the  entertainers.^ 
I  wai.  naturally  curious  to  visit  the  famous  Steam 
frigate,  cr  Floating  Battery,  built  for  the  defence  of 
the  harboi|r ;  this  favour  1  obtained  through  Dr. 
Mitchell,  tVe  great  philosopher  of  New  York,  of 
whom  it  is  (it  to  mention,  that  he  has  been  lately  en- 

♦  Two  curious  itistaiircs  ol'  disease  were  related  at  one  of 
Ihese  dinner  partite  |,y  (ieneral  Nortli.  One,  of  the  tarantula 
inl'ertiou,  in  wliicli  !ho  sntrticr,  a  leinale,  was  veheiiiently  af- 
fected l)y  musick,  ani|  the  ajipliration  of  particular  odnui-s,  ia 
discovering  wliich  slie  evinced  an  acutenrKS  of  8niell,  infinitely 
beyond  what  is  found  in  t|„.  healthful  state.  The  other  w^s 
the  (asa  of  a  female,  *Niio  was  atlacktul  hy  lethargy,  at  the  end 
of  which  h»r  menuny  l?a<l  wholly  forsaken  lier,  so  that  she  wai 
oblisjcd  to  iM'i^in  af|;ain  the  rudin'ients  of  education  ;  hut  u|ion  a 
recurrence  of  the  lit,  aconsiderahle  time  afterwards,  sh«  awoke* 
perfectly  restored  to  a  recollection  of  all  she  had  kuowu  pre- 
vioui  to  tbti  first  attack  of  the  disuaitc. 


I 


I 


'^: 


NEW    YORK. 


13 


vic- 

B   a 
lOse 

bby 
ated 
hash 
The 
isted 
ing  a 
A  me- 
te for 
ssary 

most 
)f  the 
f  they 
lancea 
e  cha- 
t  from 
era  are 
!8,  and 

kill  of 


lera 


^ 


Steam 
nee  of 
;h   Dr. 
.rk,  of    . 
.\y  en- 

onc  of 
jiantiila 
[intly  af- 
Honni,  itt 
L'liiituly 
Iher  w^s 
lllic  v.ixA 
IrIic  was 
ii|mn  a 
m  awoke, 

|wu  pre- 


* 


gaged  in  the  Icthyology  of  his  country,  an«1  has  dis- 
covered, or,  to  use  his  own  expression,  "  can  lift  up 
bis  hand  and  declare,"  that  the  Smelt  of  the  Trans- 
atlantic epicure  is  neither  more  nor  lests  than  the 
Smelt  so  honuiired  by  European  gourmands.     He  is 


besid( 


of  consideraitli 


il 


tes  a  man 

and  mentioned  several  o^  his  plans  for  (he  impiove- 
ment  of  the  Steam  Frigate,  in  constrncling  which  I 
believe  he  bore  a  principal  part.  One  plan  was  to 
obviate  the  intolerable  htat  in  the  neighhuurhood  of 
the  engines,  by  introducing  fresh  air  through  tubes 
near  the  surface  of  the  water,  bent  upwards  to  pre- 
vent its  entering.  Another  was  to  discharge  bum 
the  engine  a  force  of  water  sufficient  to  overwhelm 
any  boarding  boat,  or  drench  the  gun  deck  of  any 
,  ship  alongside. — The  length  of  the  frigate  is  150  teet ; 
breadth  of  beam  60  ;  and  thickness  of  sides  lour 
feet.  She  works  eilher  way,  and  is  said  to  be  suffi- 
ciently manageable,  and  well  calculated  fur  harbour 
defence. 

Considerable  apprehensions  were  entertained  dur- 
ing the  war,  of  a  dumiciiiurv  visit  to  New  York  by  a 
British  squadron.  This  alarm  gave  birth  to  the  va- 
rious forts  and  batteries  which  now  grin  defiance  on 
the  different  islets  at  the  mouth  of  tlic  river,  and  pro- 
ject from  several  points  along  the  tputys  of  the  town. 

.  Fortifications  were  also  thrown  up  on  the  opposite 
heights  of  Brookl}n,  on  Long  Island,  where  they 
command  the  city.      I  niiuie  a  tour  of  them  one  niorn- 

,  ing,  and  found  five  forts  or  redoubts  connected  by 
baslioncd  lines.  The  three  on  the  right  were  cover- 
ed by  an  inundation,  the  remainder  sufficiently  ap- 
proachable.    The    whole    are  now   abandoned,   and 

.  liaHlening  to  decay.  The  soil  of  the  island  is  sand, 
mixed  with  scattered  blocks  of  talkous  granite,*  used 
for  paving  the  city, 

*  Besidoi  Granite,  I  picked  up  Quartz  willi  tholrltc,  and  Ly- 
dian  stone 


<I^£T~ 


--I      ■■ iji      rn^ 


1^ 


14 


NEW    rORK. 


? 


There  is  a  small  museutn  in  New  York,  the  best 
part  of  which  is  a  collection  of  birds,  well  preserved  ; 
and  the  worst  a  set  of  wax  work  figures,  among  whom 
are   Saul  in  a  Frenchman's  embroidered   coat,  the 
Witch  of  Endor  in  the  costume  of  a  House-maid,  and 
Samuel  in  a  robe  de  chambre  and  cotton  night-cap. 
The  establishment  is  not  in  very  learned  hands,  to 
judge  by  the  labels  on  the  different  Articles  :  I  read 
on  one,  "  a  peace  of  Seder,"  vice  "  a  piece  of  Cedar." 
I  had  little  means  of  a^^certaining  the  state  of  litera- 
ture in   New  York.      Books  were  extremely   dear : 
cheap  editions  are  indeed  struck  off  of  all  our  modern 
Poets,  but  they  are  more  expensive  than  books  of 
the  same  size  in  England,  and  are  miserably  incor- 
rect.    The  Edinburgh  and  Quarterly  Reviews  are 
reprinted  as  soon  as  they  arrive,  and  are  in  great  re- 
quest ;  but  I  could  hear  of  no  American  Review  or 
Magazine,  which  even  American   Booksellers  would 
recommend.     I  met  however  with  a  few  good  works 
of  native  growth  :    Wilson's  Ornithology  is  not  only 
interesting  for  its  descriptions,  but  the  plates  are  exe- 
cuted  and  coloured  in  a  very  superiour  style.     I 
found  a  calculation  in  it  relative  to  the  flocks  of  wild 
pigeons,  which  move  annually  northward,  from   the 
back  of  the  central  and  southern  states,  enough  to 
startle  an  European  reader,  but  which  has  in  a  great 
measure  been   confirmed  to  me  by  eye   witnesses. 
He  says,  "  he  observed  a  flock  passing  betwixt  Franc- 
fort  and  the  Indiana  territory,  one  mile  at  least  in 
breadth  ;  it  took  up  four  hours  in  passing,  which,  at 
the  rate  of  one  mile   per  minute,  gives  a  length  of 
240  miles,  and  supposing  three  pigeons  to  each  square 
yard,  gives  2,2»0,272,000  pigeons."      Their  breed- 
ing places   he   describes  as  many  miles  in   extent. 
Birds  of  prey  glut  themselves  above,  hogs  and  other 
animals  are  fattened  with  the  squabs  which  tumble 
down,  and  cover  the  ground,  on  every  high  wind. 
This  prodigious  increase  secma  to  resemble  nothing 


NEW    YORK. 


15 


SO  much  as  the  herring  shoals.^  Indeed  both  the 
aerial  and  aquatick  communities  seem  to  stand  in 
need  of  Mr.  Malthus*s  checks  to  superabundant  po- 
pulation.f  It  irould  be  ingratitude  to  quit  New  York 
without  mention  of  its  erudite  and  right  pleasant  His- 
torian, Diedrich  Knickerbocker,!  whose  history  of 
the  first  Dutch  governours  of  the  settlement  deserves 
a  favoured  niche  by  the  side  of  the  revered  Cid  Ha- 
met  Benengeli,  and  the  facetious  Biographer  of  my 
Uacle  Toby. 

*  "  The  Turtle  Doves  are  so  nuraeroiis  in  Canada,  that  the 
Bishop  has  been  forced  to  excommunicate  them  oftencr  than 
once,  upon  account  of  the  damage  they  do  to  the  produce  of 
the  earth.  We  embarked  and  made  towards  a  meadow  in  the 
neighbourhood  of  which  the  trees  were  covered  with  that  sort 
of  fowls  more  than  with  leaves.  For  just  then  it  tvas  the  sea- 
son in  which  they  retire  from  the  north  countries  and  repair  to 
the  southern  climates,  and  one  would  have  thought  that  all  the 
Turtle  Doves  upon  earth  had  chosen  to  pass  through  this  place." 
— Lahontan.  I.  Letter  xi.  1687. 

f  To  preserve  the  skins  of  birds,  Mr.  Wilson  recommends  a 
strong  solution  of  arsrnick  to  be  rubbed  within  side,  and  a  lit- 
tle powdered  arsenick  to  be  sprinkled  outwardly,  with  camphor 
io  the  box. 

}  Washington  Irvine,  Esq. 


li 


''11 


»■*»■»-'  mw  «r»^ 


L    16   j 


CHAPTER   in. 


I    -r 


^h 


!i      <. 


STEAM  BOAT 


1  EMBARKED  on  the  9th  of  March,  in  the  Paraxon 
steaiti  pa.;ke(,  from  New  York  to  Albany.  The 
wmler  had  been  le%s  severe  than  usual,  which  indue- 
eti  the  captain  to  attempt  making  his  way  up  thfi 
Hmlson  earlier  than  is  customary.  These  st«iam 
boats  are  capable  of  accommodating  from  2  to  300 
pasHei^ers  ;  they  are  about  120  feet  in  length,  and  as 
ele<i,iv:it  in  their  construction  as  (he  awkward-looking 
HMOiiinery  in  the  centre  will  permit.  There  are  two 
caiiins,  one  for  the  ladies,  into  which  no  gentleman  is 
admitted  without  the  concurrence  of  the  whole  com> 
paiiy.  The  interior  arrangements,  on  the  whole,  re- 
semble those  of  our  best  packets.  I  was  not  without 
apprehension,  that  a  dirmer  in  such  a  situation,  for 
above  1^0  persons,  would  very  much  resemble  (he 
scramble  of  a  mob  ;  I  was  however  agreeably  surpris- 
ed bv  a  dinner  han<lsomely  served,  very  good  at  ten-, 
dance,  and  a  general  attention  to  quiet  and  decorum  : 
*^  Tridy,  thought  I,  these  republicans  are  not  so 
barbarous."  Indeed  when  the  cabin  was  lighted  up 
for  tea  and  sandwiches  in  the  evening,  it  more  re- 
sembled a  ball-room  supper,  than,  as  might  have  been 
expected,  a  Rtage-eoacn  meal.  The  charge,  includ- 
ing board,  from  New  York  to  Albany,  160  miles,  is 
seven  dollars. 

We  8(arted  under  the  auspices  of  a  bright  frosty 
morning  :  The  first  few  minutes  were  naturally  spent 
by  me  in  examining  the  machinery,  by  means  of 
which  our  huge  leviathan,  with  such  evident  ease, 


t  f)  u 


flTBAM    BOAT. 


ir 


won  her  way  against  the  opposing  current :  but  more 
interesting  objects  are  breaking  fast  on  the  view  ;  on 
oiir  right  are  the  sloping  sides  of  New  York  Island, 
studded  with  villas,  over  a  soil  from  which  the  hand 
of  cultivation  has  long  since  rooted  its  woodland  glo- 
ries, substituting  the  more  varied  decorations  of  park 
and  shrubbery,  intersected  with  brown  stubbles  and 
meadows  ;  while  on  our  left,  the  bold  features  of  na- 
ture rise,  as  in  days  of  yore,  unimpaired,  unchangea- 
ble ;  grey  cliffsi,  like  aged  battlements,  lower  perpen- 
dicularly from  the  water's  edge  to  the  height  of  seve- 
ral huntired  feet.*  Hickory,  dwarf  oak,  and  stunt- 
ed cedars,  twist  fantastically  within  their  crevices, 
and  deepen  the  shadows  of  each  glen  into  which  they 
occasionally  recede  ;  huge  masses  of  disjointed  rocks 
are  scattered  at  intervals  below  ;  here  the  sand  has 
collected  sufficiently  to  afford  space  for  the  wood- 
man's hut,  but  the  narrow  waterfall,  which  in  summer 
turns  his  saw-mill,  is  now  a  mighty  icicle  glittering  to 
the  morning  sun  ;  here  and  there  a  scarcely  percepti- 
ble track  conducts  to  the  rude  wharf,  from  which  the 
weather-worn  lugger  receives  her  load  of  timber  for 
the  consumption  of  the  city.  A  low  white  monu- 
ment  near  one  of  these  narrow  strands  marks  the  spot 
on  which  the  good  and  gallant  Hamilton  offered  the 
sacrifice  of  his  life  to  those  prejudices,  which  noble 
minds  have  so  seldom  dared  to  despise.  He  cross- 
ed from  the  State  of  New  York  to  evade  the  laws  of 
his  country,  and  bow  to  those  of  false  shame  and  mis- 
taken honour.  His  less  fortunate  adversary  still  sur- 
vives in  New  York,  as  obscure  and  unnoticed  as  he 
was  once  conspicuous. 

Evening  began  to  close  in  as  we  approached  the 
highlands :  The  banks  on  either  side  towered  up 
more  boldly,  and  a  wild  tract  of  mountain  scenery 
rose  beyond  them  :   The  river,  which  had  been  gra* 

*  The  whole  ofthii  ridge  cloiely  reiemblen  UnderclitTin  thf; 
Iile  of  Wight. 

8 


'H. 


18 


STEAM    BOAT. 


dually  widening,  now  expanded  into  a  capacious  lake, 
to  which  the  eye  could  distinguish  no  outlets  ;  flights 
of  wild  fowl  were  skimming  over  its  stnooth  surface 
to  their  evening  shelter,  and  the  las«t  light  of  day  rest- 
ed faintly  on  a  few  white  farm  houses,  glimmering  at 
intervals  from  the  darkening  thickets :  Verplank's 
Point  shuts  the  northern  extremity  of  this  first  basin : 
The  River  continues  its  course  within  a  clifT-bound 
chaimel,  until,  after  a  few  miles,  it  again  opens  out 
amid  the  frowning  precipices  of  West  Point  :  Here 
are  the  same  features  of  scenery  as  at  Verplank's 
Point,  but  loftier  mountains  skirt  the  lake  ;  and  clifTs 
of  more  gigantic  stature  almost  impend  above  the 
gliding  sail.^  The  moon  was  riding  in  a  cloudless 
sky,  and  as  her  silver  colouring  fell  on  the  grey  cliffs 
of  the  left  banks,  the  mountains  on  the  other  side 
projected  their  deepened  shadows,  with  encreased 
solemnity,  on  the  unruffled  waters. 

This  was  the  land  of  romance  to  the  early  settlers : 
Indian  tradition  had  named  the  Highlands  the  prison 
within  which  Manetho  confined  the  spirits  rebellious 
to  his  power,  until  the  mighty  Hudson,  rolling  through 
the  stupendous  defiles  of  West  Point,  burst  asunder 
their  prison  house ;  but  they  long  lingered  near  the 
place  of  their  captivity,  and  as  the  blasts  howled 
through  the  valleys,  echo  repeated  their  groans  to 
the  startled  ear  of  the  solitary  hunter,  who  watched 
by  his  pine-tree  fire  for  the  approach  of  morning. 
The  lights,  which  occasionally  twinkled  from  the  se- 
questered bay,  or  wooded  promontory,  sufficiently 
told  that  these  fancies,  like  the  Indians,  who  had  in- 
vented or  transmitted  them,  must  by  this  time  have 
given  way  to  the  unpoetick  realities  of  civilised  life. 

Masses  of  floating  ice,  which  had,  at  intervals 
through  the  evening,  spilt  upon  the  bow  of  our  ark, 
became  so  frequent  immediately  on  our  passing  West 

♦  Ttie  average  of  these  lieights  is  probably  about  800  feet ; 
the  highest  is  reckoned  at  1100. 


STEAM    BOAT. 


19 


Point,  as  to  oblige  us  to  come  to  anchor  for  the  night ; 
a  pretty  sure  prognostick  that  there  was  nearly  an 
end  to  our  feather-bed  travelling.  The  next  morn- 
ing we  found  ourselves  lying  close  to  the  flourishing 
little  settlement  of  Newburgh,  on  the  right  bank  of 
the  river :  Our  captain  having  concluded  to  termi- 
nate his  voyage  here,  moved  over  to  Fishkill,  on  the 
opposite  shore,  to  give  us  means  of  accommodating 
ourselves  with  conveyances,  in  the  best  way  we 
could. 


[   20  ] 


CHAPTER  IV. 


NEW  YORK  TO  ALBANY. 


March  10th. 

Verplank'8  Point, 

44  miles. 

West- Point, 

14 

Newburgii,     i 
Fishkill,         S 

a 

o 

Iltb. 

Poughkeepsie, 
Riiinebeck, 

14 

20 

12th. 

Clermont, 

Kinderhook, 

40 

Scbodach,  Van  Valtenburgs, 

8 

13th. 

Albany, 

12 

160  Milei. 


We  were  conveyed  to  Poii^hkeepsie  in  a  kind  oF 
covered  cart :  Tbe  West-Point  bills  lay  in  a  long 
ridge  behind  us,  stre(cl>ing  east  and  west.  Tbe 
country  through  which  we  passed,  though  compa< 
ratively  low,  undulated  in  the  same  direction. 
About  three  miles  from  Fishkill  a  wild  torrent  rush- 
ed over  its  bed  of  broken  rocks,  across  (he  road : 
The  romantick  bridge  flung  over  its  brawling  course, 
the  mill  on  its  craggy  banks,  and  (he  deep  wood- 
en glen,  down  which  it  hastens  to  the  Hudson, 
deserve  a  place  in  every  traveller's  journal.  Pough- 
keepsie  was  (he  first  country  (own,  or  ra(her  village, 
I  had  seen  ;  and  as  (he  fea(ures  of  all  are  much  alike, 
it  shall  be  described  for  a  specimen.  Houses  of  wood, 
roofed  wi(h  shingles,  neatly  pain(ed,  with  generally 
from  four  to  six  sash  windows  on  each  floor,  two  sto- 
ries high,  and  ajbroad  veranda,  resting  on  neat  wood- 
en pillars,  along  the  whole  of  the  front :  such  is  tbe 


NEW,  TORK    TO    ALBANY. 


21 


common  style  of  house-building  through  the  whole 
State  :  It  unites  to  cleanly  neatness  a  degree  of  ele- 
gance, confined  in  England  to  the  cottage  ornee  ;  but 
here  common  to  all  houses  ;  very  few  sink  to  a  meaner 
fashion:  this  seems  strange  to  the  eye  accustomed  to 
a  hundred  wretched  hovels  for  one  habitation  of  grace- 
ful comfort ;  but  poverty  has  not  yet  wandered  beyond 
the  limits  of  great  towns  in  America;  in  the  country 
every  man  is  a  land  owner,  and  has  competence  with- 
in his  grasp  ;  "  O  fortunatos  niminm  sua  si  bona 
norint.**  The  wiiole  of  this  beautiful  passage  may 
be  well  applied  to  American  farmers :  To  them  the 
earth  is  "  most  just,*'  for  they  are  industrious  and 
enterprising,  and  they  have  not  yet  discovered  the 
necessity  of  yielding  10  parts  of  their  earnings  to 
their  Government,  to  lake  care  of  the  remaining 
20th.  At  Poughkeepsie,  as  in  almost  all  American 
towns,  are  two  or  three  large  inns,  in  which  dinner 
is  provided  at  a  certain  hour,  for  all  travellers  en 
masse  I  nor  is  it  an  easy  matter  any  where  to  pro- 
cure a  separate  meal  ;  indeed  privacy,  either  in 
eating,  sleeping,  conversation,  or  government,  seems 
quite  unknown  and  unknowable  to  the  Americans,  to 
whom  it  appears,  whether  political  or  domestick,  a 
most  unnatural  as  well  as  unreasonable  desire,  which 
only  Englishmen  are  plagued  with. 

There  is  no  want  of  churches,  either  here  or  in 
any  other  village  of  this  state,  but  they  are  all  built 
of  the  same  perishable  materials  :  Mr.  Jefferson,  in 
his  "Nolea  on  Virfiinia,"  objects  to  this  method  of 
building,  which  adds  nothing  to  the  riches  of  the 
state ;  but  as  long  as  wood  continues  plentiful  and 
labour  dear,  houses  will  be  built  in  the  readiest  and 
cheapest  manner.  The  same  fashion  was  once 
general  in  our  own  country  :  Knickerbocker,  in  his 
humorous  way,  thus  describes  this  passion  of  the 
Yankee  settler  for  building  large  wooden  houses. 
"  Improvement  is  his  darling  passion,  and  having 
thus  improved  his  lands,  the  next  care  is  to  provide 


f^l 


I   I 


i 


4 


I  .' 


22 


NEW    YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


mansion  worthy  <he  residence  of  a  landholder.  A 
hiise  palace  of  pineboarda  immediately  springs  up 
in  the  midst  of  the  wilderness,  large  enough  for  a 
parish  church,  and  furnished  with  windows  of  all 
dimensions,  but  so  rickety  and  flimsy  withal,  that 
every  blast  gives  it  a  fit  of  the  ague,.  By  the  time 
the  outside  of  this  mighty  air  castle  is  completed, 
either  the  funds  or  the  zeal  of  our  adventurer  are 
exhausted,  so  that  he  barely  manages  to  half  finish 
one  rooln  within,  where  the  whole  family  burrow  to- 
gether, while  the  rest  of  the  house  is  devoted  to  the 
curin;;  of  pumpkins,  or  storing  of  carrots  and  pota- 
toes, and  is  decorated  with  fanciful  festoons  of  wilt- 
ed peaches  and  dried  apples.  The  outside,  re- 
maining unpainted,  grows  venerably  black  with  time  : 
The  family  warilrobe  is  laid  under  contribution  for 
old  hats,  petticoats,  and  breeches,  to  stuff  into  the 
broken  windows.  The  humble  log  hut,  which  whil- 
ome  nestled  this  improving  family  snugly  within  its 
narrow  but  comfortable  walls,  stands  hard  by  in  ig- 
nominious contrast,  degraded  into  a  cowhouse  or 
pig-stye ;  and  the  whole  scene  reminds  one  forcibly 
of  a  fable,  which,  I  am  surprised  has  never  been 
recorded,  of  an  aspiring  snail,  who  quitted  his  hum- 
ble habitation,  which  he  filled  with  great  respecta- 
bility, to  crawl  into  the  em|;ty  shell  of  a  lobster, 
where  he  would  no  doubt,  have  resided  in  great  style 
and  splendour,  the  envy  and  hate  of  all  the  pains- 
taking snails  of  his  neighbourhood,  had  he  not  acci« 
dentally  perished  with  cold  in  one  corner  of  his  stu- 
pendous mansion." 

About  a  mile  from  Poughkeepsie  we  were  sur- 
prised to  meet  a  very  handsome  covered  sociable, 
drawn  by  four  excellent  horses,  sent,  we  were  told 
for  the  accommodation  of  the  gentleman  I  was  ac- 
companying to  Canada :  almost  at  the  same  instant,  a 
mounted  courier  rode  up  to  tell  us  his  master  had 
vehicles  prepared  for  us ;  this  extraordinary  zeal 
arose  from    the  competition   of  these   two   proprie- 


W: 


NEW    YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


23 


tors,  who  hat!  heartl  of  our  coming,  and  probable 
wants,  IVoin  some  fellow  passengers,  wlio  had  a  few 
minutes  starf  of  us;  we  had  considerable  difliculty 
in  adjusting  their  civil  claims,  yielding  however  the 
palm  of  preference  to  the  one  who  had  «o  actively 
exhibited  a  specimen  of  his  nieann  :  lie  engaged  to 
convey  ourselves,  four  s«:iv  arils,  and  baggage,  to 
Albany,  for  150  dollars:  a  charije  we  found  i^o  rea- 
sonable that  we  made  him  some  additional  compen- 
sation at  the  end  of  the  journey.  Let  therefore 
Mr.  Butler's  name,  carriage,  horses,  and  drivers, 
descend  with  honour  to  posterity,  should  posterity 
ever  make  inquiries  about  him,  or  them.  AV'hat 
precise  proportion  of  this  moderation  was  owing  to 
the  strong  spirit  of  opposition  betwixt  him  and  his 
neighbour,  may  be  left  (o  the  calculating  conjectures 
of  the  worldly  reader. 

At  Kindcrhook  we  foimd  a  militia  court  martial 
going  forward.  Curiosity  induced  us  to  step  for  a 
moment  into  the  "  Hall  of  Justice,"  where  a  scene 
presented  itself  on  which  Hogarth  would  have  ban- 
queted :  The  Colonel  President  sat  at  the  head  of 
the  table  ;  a  cocked  hat,  equal  in  size  to  three  de- 
generate Wellingtons  of  modern  days,  witli  a  crim- 
son feather,  adorned  his  untrimmed  locks,  "but  red- 
der than  the  plume  so  red,"  a  nose,  all  gemmed  and 
carbuncled,  flamed  beneath  it ;  a  coloured  silk  hand- 
kerchief was  tied  loosely  round  his  neck  ;  before 
him  stood  a  large  jug  of  whiskey  punch,  and  beside 
it  the  swords  of  his  fellow  judges  bundled  together, 
while  their  owners,  in  heterogeneous  garb,  hTilf-farm- 
er,  half-soldier,  sate  round  the  table,  posing,  in  quaint 
phrase  of  guessing,  and  mistering,  the  witnesses, 
who,  to  prevent  discordant  evidence,  were  all  placed 
in  court  to  hear  one  another's  story. 

We  slept  this  night  at  the  village  of  Schodach, 
where  the  clean  little  inn,  and  obliging  family  of 
Mr.  Van  Valtenburgh  merit  our  grateful  remem- 
brance;   the    whole   establishment   is    a    pattern   of 


24 


NEW    YORK    TO    ALBANY. 


'/ 


J 


I 


Dutch  neatness,  with  not  a  little  of  English  com- 
fort: It  was  the  more  agreeable  to  us,  from  our  hav- 
ing here  first  got  rid  of  the  liain  of  passengers,  who 
were  turned  out  with  ourselves  from  the  steam  boat, 
and  had  been  flooding  every  inn  we  came  to  ever 
Bince  :  I  found,  among  a  smal]  collection  of  books 
belonging  to  Miss  Van  Valtenburgh,  Miss  Edge- 
worth's  "  Patronage  ;"  indeed  I  went  into  few 
American  houses,  without  meeting  with  some  of  our 
popular  works.  Surely  it  must  be  no  inconsiderable 
source  of  gratification  to  such  writers  as  Scott  and 
Edgewortb,  to  think  their  productions  are  circulated, 
"  to  raise  the  morals,  and  amend  the  hearts"  of  the 
dwellers  on  the  Hudson,  and  the  borderers  of  Lake 
Champlain. 

We  approached  Albany  through  a  country  gently 
undulating,  and  pretty  thickly  intersected  with  for- 
ests, from  which,  however,  their  noblest  timber  has 
been  almost  wholly  extracted.  On  the  right  bank 
of  the  Hudson,  a  bold  ridge  of  mountains  extends 
from  Katskill  to  the  neigbourhood  of  Albany,  (called 
the  Katskill  Ridge)^'^  altogether  in  the  direction  of 
the  river.  Dr.  Mitchell  found  the  basis  of  these 
mountains  to  consist  of  the  same  freestone  as  that  of 
the  Blue  Ridge,  of  which  he  conceives  them  to  be  a 
prolongation,  and  to  mark  the  limit  betwixt  the  re- 
gion of  freestone  and  that  of  granite.  Nearly  oppo- 
site to  Albany  is  Oreenbush,  a  large  wooded  hill, 
on  which  are  barracks,  it  is  said,  for  near  10,000 
men.  We  found  a  regular  road  to  the  town  across 
the  ice,  and  prepared,  not  without  some  misgivings 
for  the  future,  to  part  from  Mr.  Butler's  excellent 
four-in-hand. 

*  The  higliest  point  of  this  ridge  has  been  oAtimateri  at 
3549  feet.  Vide  Volney,  *'  Tableau  dii  Cliuaat,"  S(c.  tora.  i. 
p.  35. 


% 


h 


[25  ] 


CHAPTER  VI. 


ALBANY. 


It  is  curious  to  find  a  considerable  remnant  of  feudal- 
ism in  a  young  democracy  of  North  America.     This, 
however,  is  llie  case   in  the  neighbourhood  of  Al- 
bany.    A  Dutch  gentleman,  Mr.  Van  Rensselaer,  still 
retains  the  title  of  Patroon  ;  his  seigniories  are  said  to 
extend  over  thirty  miles  of  territory,  burthened  with 
all  the  catalogue  of  incidents,  fines,  tolls,  quit-rents, 
reservations,  proprietorships  of  mills,  &c.  &c.  com- 
mon to  old  European  tenures.     Many  of  the  neighbour- 
ing villages  continue  almost  entirely   Dutch,  among 
which,  improvement,  probably  from  the  above  cir- 
cumstance, goes  on  very  slowly.     The  town  of  Alba- 
ny has   a  gay,  thriving    appearance,    with    nothing 
Dutch  about  it  but  the  names  of  some  of  its  inhabi- 
tants.    What  traces  of  primeval  manners  Btill  linger 
in  their  domestic  economy,  I  am  not  entitled  to  de- 
cide :  the  historian  of  New  York,  in  the  first  volume 
of  his  erudite  Ri^searches,  p.  1.'>7,  does  indeed  charge 
"some  families  in  Albany^'  with  still  keeping  up  an 
economical  expedient  of  their  iMicestors  for  sweeten- 
ing tea,  viz.  by  suspending  "  a  large  lump  of  sugar  di- 
rectly over  the  tea-table,  by  a  string  from  the  ceiling,  so 
that  it  could  be  swung  from  moiilli  to  mouth."     It  is 
probable,  however,  he  found   some  reason  to  doubt 
the  continuance  of  this  custom,  during  his  lust  visit  to 
Albany,  uflfu*  the  publi'-ation  of  his  work  :  vide  an 
"  Account  of  the  Author,"  prefixed  to  his  history,  p. 
ix.     One  speci(nen  of  Dutch   maruiers  did  indeed  fall 
under   my  own   observation  at   Srhoilach.     An  old 
lady,  who  had  finished   her  morning  drive  before  we 

t 


F11 


1 1 


20  ALBANY. 

had  begun  ours,  was  saluted  by  our  landlord's  daugh> 
ter  with  the  pristine  ceremony  of  a  small  stove  of 
warm  coals,  decorously  introduced  beneath  her  full- 
flowing  petticoats. 

Albany  beitis  the  seat  of  government  for  New 
York,  has  a  p»rliament*house,  dignified  with  the  name 
of  the  Capitol,  which,  as  in  duty  bound,  stands  upon 
a  hill,  and  has  a  lofty  columned  porch ;  hut  as  the 
building  is  but  small,  it  looks  all  porch.  There  is  a 
miserable  little  museum  here,  with  a  group  of  waxen 
figures,  representing  the  execution  of  Louis  XVI., 
brought  from  France  :  it  is  impossible  not  to  give 
them  the  praise  of  being  natural,  if  a  ghasty  sem* 
blance  of  life,  so  close  as  to  make  one  start,  deserve 
the  name.  The  furious  attitude  of  the  executioner, 
stretching  out  his  arms  from  the  top  of  the  scafTold- 
steps,  eager  to  receive  his  victim;  the  hard  counte- 
nance of  the  commiSf  seated,  with  his  watch  jn  his 
hand,  to  minute  down  the  fatal  stroke ;  the  features 
of  the  unfortunate  king,  "  Pallena  morfe  futurA^*  all 

{)osness  this  merit  in  no  small  degree.  While  1  was 
ooking  through  the  museum,  three  Oneida  Indians, 
the  first  I  had  seen,  came  to  the  keeper  to  borrow 
some  articles  of  Indian  dress  and  armoury  to  exhibit 
that  evening  at  the  theatre.  They  wore  pretty  near- 
ly the  European  dress,  excepting  a  kind  of  cloak  fold- 
ed over  one  shoulder,  and  a  ribbon  round  their  hats. 
The  spokesman  of  the  three,  a  very  handsome  young 
man,  was,  I  was  told,  son  to  the  principal  chief.  I 
saw  him  on  the  stage  in  the  evening,  beatmg  a  kind  of 
drum,  and  accompanying  the  war-dance  of  his  com- 
panions with  a  low  monotonous  song.  It  seemed  a 
melancholy  sight :  the  Hons  of  the  once  free  masters 
of  the  soil  exhibiting  themselves  to  the  scornful  mirth 
of  those  who  4iad  spoiled  them  of  their  inheritance. 
To  be  robbed,  corrupted,  and  degraded  is  the  in- 
variable lot  of  the  Indian  who  comes  in  contact  with 
the  civilization  of  Europe.     Nobler  he, 

"  Who  forward  riishen  witli  indi^nnnt  grief, 
*'  Where  uevor  loot  lias  trod  the  falloa  loaf." 


I 


».) 


r27  ] 


CHAPTER    VII. 


THE  FALLS  OP  THE  MOHAWK. 

AV-HATEVER  a  country  affords  worth  seeing,  take 
the  first  opportunity  to  see  it.  This  simple  rule 
would  prevent  many  such  posthumous  lamentations, 
and  lame  "  buts,"  as,  "lam  very  sorry  1  omitted 
goin;;,  but  I  thought  I  should  have  returned  by  the 
same  road."  "  I  fully  intended  seeing  it,  but  the 
weather  was  so  unfavourable,  that  I  deferred  it  'til" 
—when  ? 

•'  Some  period,  no  where  to  lie  foimd 
"  In  all  the  hoary  register  ni'  time." 

As  nothing  sounds  so  ill  to  one's  self  or  others,  I  de> 
termined  to  visit  the  falU  of  the  Mohawk,  the  same 
day  I  arrived  at  Albany  ;  though  I  was  told  we 
should  pass  within  a  few  yards  of  them  on  the  mor- 
row, which  did  not  turn  out  to  be  the  case.  The 
Cohoz^,  or  falU  of  the  Mohawk,  are  little  more  than 
half  a  mile  from  the  junction  of  the  two  rivers  :  their 
extreme  breadth  is  about  three  hundred  foises,  which 
is  much  more  than  the  mean  breadth  of  the  stream, 
both  above  and  below  them,  being  increased  by  the 
manner  in  which  the  ledge  of  rocks  forms  an  obtuse 
angle,  in  the  direction  of  the  current. f     Their  height 

•  Le  nom  de  Colioz  me  pnrnit  iin  mot  imitatirmniiervP  dfs  Snuvnjri'ii,  et 
par  un  chh  HJiigiilirr,  je  I'lii  rpiioiiv^  daii«  lo  pnyK  di'  liidgt*,  appli4u6  &  uue 
petite  ciiBcad*',  4  troi!)  lieue*  dr  &pii  "— Voliiey,  p.  123 

f  '•  The  bed  of  the  falls  is  of  fserpenline  stone." — Volney, 
Tableau,  I.  i  Al.  lie  observes,  (hat  the  bed  oC  the  Mohawk 
fcems  to  separate  the  region  of  freesloue  ihiiu  that  of  granite. 


,,A.   - 


,  i 


\-  ii 


28 


THE    FALLS    OF    THE    MOHAWK. 


t  i 


1    '> 


I   >l 


does  not,  perhaps,  exceed  50  ket.*  The  banks 
above  them  are  nearly  on  a  level  with  the  water,  but 
are  increased  below  by  the  depth  of  the  fulls.  In 
summer,  the  overflow  is  said  to  be  scanty,  and  even 
at  this  season  a  cap  of  snow  rested  on  the  most  promi- 
nent clitTof  the  angle,  from  beneath  which  the  stream 
filtered  in  silver  veins.  The  whole  effect  of  these 
falls,  the  broadest,  I  believe,  in  the  Stales,  excepting 
Niagara,  is  diminished  for  want  of  the  relief  of  a  bold, 
darkly-shadowed  baclc>ground.  The  air  of  wintry 
desolation,  varied  only  by  the  soa*bre  foliage  of  the 
pine  and  cedar,  stretching  their  dark  masses  over 
beds  of  snow,  took  little  from  the  rude  force  of  a 
gcene,  the  character  of  which  is  rather  simply  grand, 
than  lovely  or  romantick.  There  is  a  very  good  point 
of  view  from  a  long  covered  bridge,  which  crosses 
the  Mohawk  near  its  mouth,  and  leadn  to  the  village 
of  Waterford.  The  distance,  from  Albany  is  about 
ten  miles. 


1!^ 


*  Volney  says,  ••  norne  reckon  it  at  65  feet,  others  only  50." 
The  Marquis  de  Chastellux  makes  it  75.  He  al^^o  visited  it  in 
winter,  and  observes,  *'  The  picture  was  rendered  Ktill  more 
"terrible  by  the  snow  which  covered  the  (irs,  the  brilliancy 
"of  which  gave  a  black  colour  to  the  water,  gliding  gently 
"  along,  and  a  yellow  tinge  to  that  which  was  waihmg  over  the 
'*  cataract." 


vr 


t/) 


Sr..^ 


....-:..,  „.l,.,  J 


f   • 


[29] 


CHAPTER  VIII. 


ALBANY  TO  THE  FRONTIER  OF  CANADA. 


March  14th.  Troy, 

6  milei. 

Lansinghurg, 

3 

Schatecoke, 

3 

Pittstown, 

7 

raiiihridge, 

13 

Portir's  Inn, 

2 

Robert's  Inn, 

6 

I5th.  Salem, 

8 

Hfbron, 

8 

Hopkin's  Inn, 

4 

Granvilli', 

5 

16th.  Whitehall,  or        i 
SkeeiiiSoiough,      J 

14  Stage  W 

ghorFlium,                t 
Larenhurg'd  Inn,       S 

25 

17th.  Chimney  Point, 

14 

Basin  Harbour, 

12 

JM'NiePs  Inn, 

9 

Burlington, 

12 

Plattsburg, 

21 

Chazy, 

20 

Inn, 

7 

Iile  aus  Noix, 

12  Slelghi. 

k 


n 


n 


211 


T^ROT  is  a  little  short  of  a  mile  in  length,  and  hears 
every  mark  of  growing  opulence.  There  is  a  large 
barrow-fonnrd  mount,  at  the  end  of  the  town,  on  the 
road  side,  which,  though  evidently  a  natural  rock, 
might  represent  the  tomb  of  llus  to  this  new  Ilium, 
were  Yankey  imaginations  disposed  to  run  classically 
riot.  The  road  runs  pleasantly  on  the  banks  of  the 
Hudson,  which  here  form  a  long  stiipe  of  flat  giound, 
evidently  an  alluvion,  about  a  mile  in  breadth,  beyond 
which  the  hiili  again  rise,  intersecting  the  country  in 


\'\ 


I 


II  I  III  11  mill 


.? 


30 


ALBANY    TO    THK 


f  { 


a  N.  W.  direction.  Betwixt  Pittstown  and  Cam- 
bridge we  crossed  the  Hoosick  river,  and  continued 
our  way  through  a  wild  and  mountainous  country, 
whose  remoter  heights  were  now  fading  in  evening 
mists.  From  Pitlstown  we  had  quilted  (he  course 
of  the  Hudson,  and  moving  in  a  N.  E.  direction, 
were  falling  in  with  the  various  chams  of  hills  which 
spring  la'erally  from  the  great  N.  E.  chain  of  the 
West  Point  mo.intains.  Salem  is  beautifully  embo- 
somed amid  these  ramification:^,  which  seem  to  divide 
the  low  country  into  a  nuuiber  of  separate  basins, 
each  watered  by  its  own  sequestered  stream.  Mas- 
ses of  slaty  rock  are  every  where  scattered  through 
the  roM-itry.  Lind,  we  were  informed,  was  worth 
about  20/.  per  acre ;  a  considerable  sum,  where  it  is 
so  plentiful.  The  Americans,  who  are  never  defi- 
cient when  improvement  is  in  view,  have  introduced 
the  use  of  gypsum,  as  the  most  transportable,  as  well 
as  the  most  profitable,  manure.  A  farmer  here,  with 
whom,  as  is  usual  in  the  States,  we  tell  into  conver- 
sation, informed  us  that  the  average  quantity  employ- 
ed was  three  pecks  per  acre,  united  with  the  seed: 
that  it  was  of  great  service  to  clover ;  and  well  em- 
ployed on  all  sandy  or  gravelly  soils,  adding  a  curious 
remark,  if  correct,  that  it  produces  no  efiect  on  land 
within  thirty  miles  of  the  sea.** 

Granville  is  situated  in  one  of  these  mountain  ba- 
sins, and  is  but  a  few  miles  from  the  toot  of  the  Green 
and  Bald  mountains,  which  form  the  continuation  of 
the  great  chain.  The  streams  in  (his  neighbourhood 
no  longer  fall  into  the  Hud!<on,  but  make  a  northerly 
course  to  Lake  Cham  plain.  At  Granville  we  quit- 
ted the  main  north  road,  to  go  to  Whitehall,  and  take 
the  benefit  of   sleighs  across  the  lake.     1  observed  a 


*  Tfiis  remark  I  tiave  lieard  confirmed  by  well  informed  per- 
sons in  the  States.  The  rtiost  common  theory  of  the  use  of 
gypsdtn  seems  to  he  its  disposition  to  attract  moisture,  thus 
remodyiug  the  defects  of  dry  warm  soils. 


■•^^f^ti^iU)/^  '. 


.s 


FRONTIER    OF    CANADA. 


31 


Cam- 

itinued 

"< 

>unlrj, 

-J 

veiling 

course 

.,,'; 

ectioni 

which 

of  the 

4 

embo- 

■J 

divide 

'i 

basins, 

if 

Maa- 

through 

worth 

1 

re  it  is 

■i* 

er  defi- 

■■'.* 

•oduced 

A 

as  well 

re,  with 

conver- 

employ- 

I 

e  seed: 
(veil  em- 

curious 

on  land 

,; 

t 

tain  ba- 

B  Green 

■I. 

lation  of 

aurhood 

Ktherly 

^ 

ve  quit- 

"it 

ind  take 

lerved  a 

ined  per- 

1 

le  use  of 

1 

ure,  thus 

i 

quantity  of  red  clay-slate  in  this  neighbourhood,  re- 
sembling the  cliffs  of  the  St.  Lawrence  near  Quebec. 
The  aspect  of  the  country  remained  much  the  same, 
only  growing  more  wild  and  wintry  as  we  proceeded. 
The  snow  which   had   hitherto  been  partial,  now  be- 
gan to  impede  the  progress  of  our  waggon,  which  had 
been  moving  at  the  rate  of  three  and  a  half  miles  per 
hour.     We   were    frequently   obliged   to  aliiiht,  and 
walk  down  steep  hills,  thickly  encrusletl  with  ice  and 
inow.     A  fine  bear  had  preceded  us,  as  we  discover- 
ed   by  his  large  round  fool   prints,  but   he  was  not 
complaisant  enough  to  show  himself  from  some,  crag- 
gy knoll,  and  welcome  us  to  his  solitude.     A  smalt 
ground   squirrel    was   the   only  specimen   of  bird    or 
beast  we  encountered.     The  valley  closes  in  as  you 
approach   Whitehall,  until    its   lofty   barriers   barely 
leave  space  suUicienI  for  the  site  of  the  village,  and 
the  course  of  a  small  river,  called  Wood-creek,  which 
rushes  into  the  lake,  with  a  small  cascade  ;  its  right 
bank  rises  perpendicularly  several  hundred  feet:  strata 
of  dark  grey  lime-stone,  disposed  at  regular  parallels, 
exhibit  an   appearance  of  masonry  so  perfect  as  to 
require  a  second  glance  to  convince  one  a  wall  is  not 
built  up  from  the  bed  of  the  stream.     The  heights 
on  the  opposite  side  of  the  valley  are  equally  bold, 
and  marked  with  the  same  character;  their  summits 
are  every  where  darkened  with  forests  of  oak,  pine, 
and  cedar  ;  large  detached  masses  of  granite  are  scat- 
tered generally  through   the  valley,   and   among  the 
housesof  the  village,  which  like  several  others  on  our 
road,  very  much  resembled  a  large  timber-)  ard,  from 
the  quantity  of  wood  cutting  up  and  scattered  about  for 
purposes  of  building  :  indeed  it  is  impossible  to  travel 
through  the  Slates  without  taking  part  with  the  unfor- 
tunate  trees,  who,  unable   like   their   persecuted  fel- 
lows of  the  soil,  the  Indians,  to  make  good  a  retreat, 
are  exposed  to  every  form  and  species  of  tlcslriidion 
Yankee  convenience  or  dexterity  can  invent ;  felling, 
burning,  rooting  up,  tearing  down,  lopping,  and  chop 


'f's 


,4 


32 


ALBANT    TO    THS 


.}        I 


ping,  are  all  employed  with  most  unrelenting  severity. 
We   passed   through  jnany   forests    whose    leafless 
trunks,  blackened  with  fire,  rose  above  the  underwood, 
like  lonely  columns,  while  their  flat-wreathed   roots 
lay  scattered  about,  not  unlike  the  capitals  of  Egyp- 
tian architecture.     I   believe  some  traveller  has  ob- 
served that  there  are  no  large  trees  in  America,  an 
observation  not  very  wide  of  the  truth,  to  judge  from 
what  may  be  seen  from   the  high  road  ;  a  few  steps 
however  into  any  of  the  woods,  shew  that  they  have 
abounded   in  very  fine   timber,  numerous  remains  of 
which  are  every  where  left  standing;  but  the  ex- 
treme prodigality  with  which  the  finest  timber  trees 
have  been  employed,  being  often  piled   together  to 
make  fences,  and  so  left   to  rot,  has  begun  to  pro- 
duce a  comparative  scarcity,   especially   near   large 
towns,  which  has  considerably  increased  the  value  of 
the  property  of  woodland. 

At  Whitehall  we  embarked  in  sleighs  on  Lake 
Champlain  ;  the  afternoon  was  bright  and  mild,  and 
well  disposed  us  to  enjoy  the  pleasing  change  from 
our  snailpaced  waggon  to  the  smooth  rapidity  of  a 
sleigh,  gliding  at  the  rate  of  nine  miles  an  hour.  The 
first  object  our  driver  was  happy  to  point  out  to  us, 
was  several  of  our  own  flotilla,  anchored  near  the 
town,  sad  "  trophies  of  the  fight."  The  head  of  the 
lake  called  "  the  Narrows,"  does  not  exceed  the 
breadth  of  a  small  river ;  the  sides  rise  in  lofty  cliffs, 
whose  grey  strata  sometimes  assume  the  regular  di- 
rection of  the  mason's  level,  sometimes  form  an  an- 
gle more  or  less  acute  with  the  horizon,  and  some- 
times, particularly  in  projecting  points,  seem  almost 
vertical  to  it.  Our  driver  pointed  out  a  curious  fis- 
sure in  the  left  bank,  called  the  "  devil's  pulpit ;" 
it  is  in  about  the  centre  of  the  ens',  and  seems  broken 

with  great  regularity,  much  in  this  figure    \  /. 

Tyconderoga  point  stands  out  in  an  attitude  of 
defiance  to  those  who  ascend  the  lake,  but  its  martial 
terrors  are  now  extinguished,  or  marked  only  by  the 


FRONTIERS    OF    CANADA. 


33 


■A 


severity, 
leafless 
derwood, 
ed  roots 
t(  Egyp- 
•  has  ob- 
erica,  an 
dge  from 
few  steps 
ley  have 
emains  of 
L  the  ex- 
iber  trees 
rether  to 
1  to  pro- 
ear  large 
}  value  of 

on  Lake 

nild,  and 

nge  from 

idity  of  a 

ur.    The 

tut  to  us, 

near  the 

ad  of  the 

ceed  the 

►fty  cliffs, 

gular  di- 

rra  an  an- 

nd  some- 

:m  almost 

rious  fis- 

pulplt  ;'* 

IS  broken 


\7- 


crumbling  remains  of  field  works,  and  the  ruin  of  an 
old  fortilied  barrack.    Lake  Geui,:^e  unites  with  Lake 
Champlain,  at  the  foot  of  this   mountain   point,  by  a 
narrow    stream,  on  the   right   bank    of  which,  rises 
Mount  Defiance,  and  on   I  lie  opposite  side  of  Lake 
Champlain,  Mount   Independence  ;  names  which   be- 
speak  their  military  fame  in   days   of  old,   but  now, 
like  letired  country  gentlemen,  they  are  content  to 
raise  oak  and  pine  woods,  instead  of  frowning   batte- 
ries.    At  Shoreham,  nearly  opposite  to  Crown  Point, 
we  found  good  accommodation   lor  the   night,   at  Mr. 
Larenburg's  tavern,  and  set  oil  the  next  morning  be- 
fore breakfast ;  but  we  had  soon   cause   to  repent    of 
thus  committing  ourselves  fasling  to  the  mercy  of  the 
elements.     The  lake   now  began   to   widen,   and    the 
shores  to  sink  in  the  same  propoi  lion  ;  the  keen  blasts 
of    the    north,   sweeping    o\er    its   frozen   expanse, 
pierced  us  with  needles  of  iie  ;  the  thermometer  was 
22'*    below    zero  ;    buffalo   hides,   bear  skins,    caps, 
shawls  and    handkerchiefs    were    vainly    employed 
against  a  degree  of  cold  so  much  beyond  our  habits. 
Our  guide,  alone  of  the  party,  his  chin  and  eye-lashes 
gemmed  and  powdered  with  the  drifting  snow,  boldly 
set  his  face  and  his  horses   in  the  teeth  of  the  storm.  ' 
Sometimes  a  crack  in  the  ice  would  compel   us  to 
wait,  while  he   went  forward   to  explore  it  with  his 
axe,  (without  which,  the  American  sleigh-drivers  sel- 
dom  travel,)    when,    having  ascertained   its  breadth, 
and  the  foo'hold  on  either  side,  he   woidd   drive   his 
horses  at  speed,  and  clear  the  fissure,  with   its  snow 
ridge,  at  a  tiying  leap  ;  a  sensation  we  found   agreea- 
ble enough,  but  not  so  agreeable  as  a  good   inn  and 
dinner  at  Burlington.     Burlington  is  a  beautiful  lit- 
tle town,  rising  from   the  edge  of  the  lake ;  the  prin- 
cipal buildings  are  disposed   in  a  neat   square ;   on  a 
hill  above  the  (own  stands  the  college,  a  plain   brick 
building,   the  greater  part  of  which   is  unoccupied, 
and  seemingly  unfinished.  '      ^ 

6 


^■Y^ 


"»*-'<i.i 


34 


ALBANY  -TO    THE 


I-  4 


•  .«    ■ 


V 


i" 


We  crossed  the  next  morning  to  Piattsbiirgb,  curi- 
ous to  view  the  theatre  of  our  misfortunes  ;  it  is  a 
flourishing  little  town,  situated  principally  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Saranac,  a  little  river,  which,  falling  into 
the  lake,  makes,  with  an  adjacent  island,  and  Cum- 
berland Point,  a  convenient  bay,  across  which  the 
American  flotilla  lay  anchored,  to  receive  our  attack ; 
the  untoward  issue  of  which,  decided  the  retreat  of 
Sir  George  Prevost's  army.  We  were  particular  in 
our  inquiries  into  the  position  of  the  flotilla,  that  we 
might  ascertain  whether,  as  has  been  asserted,  they 
were  within  cannon  range  from  the  shore ;  this  we 
found  at  no  time  to  have  been  the  case,  so  that  no 
movement  on  our  part  by  land,  could  have  influenced 
the  event  of  the  naval  action.  The  fortifications  are 
on  the  right  bank  of  the  Saranac  ;  the  American  com- 
mandant obligingly  conducted  us  through  them  ;  they 
consist  of  two  square  forts  palisadoed,  but  with  neith- 
er out-works,  nor  covered  way.  This  oflScer  inform- 
ed us,  that  they  had  not  even  their  gates  hung  when 
our  army  first  arrived  before  them.  Our  retreat 
surprised  them  as  much  as  it  did  many  of  our  own 

fieople ;  it  must  however  be  observed,  that  though 
ittle  or  no  doubt  existed,  that  the  works,  if  attacked, 
would  have  been  carried,  the  object  of  the  expedition 
fell  to  the  ground  with  the  loss  of  the  flotilla,  by 
means  of  which  alone,  the  transport  of  stores  and 
provisions  could  have  been  secured.  U  je  fight 
must  have  been  for  honour  only,  and  Sir  George  Pre- 
Tost  certainly  took  the  boldest  part,  when  he  declin- 
ed it. 

"  Travelling,  after  all,"  says  Madame  de  Stael, 
**  is  but  a  melancholy  pleasure  ;"  an  observation  doub- 
ly true,  if  applied  to  travelling  over  an  uniform  surface 
of  ice,  in  very  cold  weather.  Curiosity  freezes  un- 
der such  circumstances,  and  the  only  prospect  which 
rouses  attention  is  the  inn,  or  village,  which  is  to  af- 
ford the  comforts  of  food  and  fire.  I  observed,  how- 
ever, that  the  shores  of  the  lake  gradually  sunk  down 


.  «v... 


•«ky 


FRONTIERS    OF    CANADA. 


3: 


•gh,  curi- 
s  ;  it  ia  a 
n  the  left 
liing  into 
nd  Cum- 
hich  the 
r  attack ; 
retreat  of 
ticiilar  in 
,  that  we 
ed,  they 

this  we 
)  that  no 
ifluenced 
itions  are 
can  com- 
;m  ; they 
itb  neith- 
r  inform- 
ing when 
r  retreat 
our  own 
t  though 
ittacked, 
pedition 
tilla,  by 
lores  and 
je  fight 
rge  Pre- 

declin- 

Stael, 
on  doub- 
1  surface 
Bzes  un- 
t  which 
is  to  af- 
id,  bow- 
nk  down 


to  the  level  of  the  water,  while  the  mountain  ridges 
fell  off  to  the  right  and  left,  leaving  a  broad  and  near- 
ly level  expanse  of  wood  and  water.  Traces  of  cul- 
tivalion  diminished  as  we  approached  the  frontier;  a 
few  solitary  houses,  commonly  the  resort  of  smug- 
glers, were  scattered  on  the  shore,  embosomed  in 
forests  of  a  most  uninviting  aspect.  Betwixt  Cham- 
plain  and  Isle  anx  Noix,  travellers  take  leave  of 
America,  and  enter  on  the  Canadian  territory.  A 
few  words  then  on  the  American  character,  ere  I  and 
they  part. 


CHARACTER  OF  THE  AMERICANS. 

It  is  a  bold  enterprize,  to  describe  the  habits,  man* 
ners,  and  dispositions  of  a  nation,  after  a  fifteen  days' 
journey  through  it ;  but  here  I  am  encouraged  by  the 
example  of  all  my  travelling  contemporaries  of  both 
hemispheres,  whose  courage  in  this  respect,  has  gain- 
ed them  the  proverbial  reputation  of  a  race  of  men, 
who  are  never  dastardly  enough  to  shrink  from  the 
task,  on  account  of  mere  want  of  information,  but  who 
are  always  ready  to  depicture  both  the  exteriour  and 
interiour  of  the  inhabitants  they  happen  to  catch  a 
glimpse  of,  through  the  windows  of  their  travelling 
carriage,  with  as  much  accuracy, 

"  As  thougli  tliey  tiad  stood  by 
"  And  seen  thein  made." 

A  great  help  in  these  cases  is  the  labour  of  our  pre- 
decessors, by  whose  means  their  followers  are  ena- 
bled to  transmit  a  lie,  unpolluted,  to  posterity.  Now 
as  there  can  be  little  doubt  that  such  benevolent  aid, 
has  been  ever  intended  rather  for  the  poor  than  the 
rich,  [  shall  begin  by  begging  the  helping  hand  of 
my  friend  Knickerbocker,  over  an  explanation  of  the 
term  Yankie,  generally  applied  to  the  New  England 


.1 


(/ 


36 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    AMERICANS. 


I    I 


I'  I 


•I 


ers,  both   by  us  and  themselves.     The  first   settlers 
of  New  Enf^land  were  Iho  Pnrifans,  and  other  secta- 
ries, who,  persecuted  and  buffeled  at  home,  "  embark- 
ed for  the  wilderness  of  America,  where  they  might 
enjoy  unmolested  the  inestimable  luxury  of  talking. 
No  sooner  did  they  land   upon  this  loquacious  soil, 
than  as  if  they  had  caught   the  disease  from  the  cli- 
mate, they  all  lifted  np  their  voices  at  once,  and  for 
the  space  of  one  whole  year  did  keep  up  such  a  joy- 
ful clamour,  that  we  are  told,  they  frightened  every 
bird  and  beast  out  of  the  neighbourhood,  and  so  com- 
pletely dumb-founded  certain  fish,  which  abound  on 
their  coast,  that  they  have  been  called    '  dumb-fish* 
ever  since.     The  simple  aborigines  of  the  land  for  a 
while  contemplated  these  strange  folk  in  utter  asto- 
nishment, but  iliscoveriog  that  they  wielded  harmless, 
though  noiay  weapons,  and  were  a  lively,  ingenious, 
good-humoured  race  of  men,  they  became  very  friend- 
ly and  sociable,  and  gave  them  the  name  of  Yankies, 
which,  *in  the  Mais-Tcbsuaeg  (or  Massachusett)  lan- 
guage  signifies  *  silent   men  ;*    a  waggish  appellation 
since  shortened  into  the  familiar  epithet  of  Yankies, 
which  they  retain  unto  the  present  day." — I.  p.   178. 
Nor  have  they  retained  a  barren  epithet,  but  are  still 
eminent  for  the   facility   with  which  they  engage  in 
conversation.     One  table  for  meals  is  stage-coach  fare 
even  in  England  :  one  bed-room,  containing  a  dozen 
beds,  may  be  tolerated  in  a  cc;witry  new  to  the  luxu- 
ries of  travelling  ;  but  the  spirit  of  sociability  is  a  lit- 
tle excessive,  when,  as  I  have  been  told,  it  enjoins 
the  traveller  to  halve  his  bed  with   whoever  arrives 
too  late  to  procure  one  for  himself.     I  had  often  oc- 
casion to  observe,  the  Americans  have  no  idea  of  a 
private  chit-chat  betwixt  two  persons.     I  have  seve- 
ral times  fancied  myself  engaged  (6te-a-<Ste,  when  on 
raising  my  eyes,  I  have  found  a  little  circle  formed 
round  us,   fully   prepared   with  reply,  rejoinder,  or 
observation,  as  opportunity    might   occur :    let  me, 
however,  add  without  any  intention  of  rudeness  :  im- 


iK 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    AMERICANS. 


3r 


seltlers 

1 

er  secta- 

1 

embark- 

y  might 

-■ 

ia'ik'mg. 

1 

oils  soil, 

1 

1 

the  cli- 

■-'.■ 

and  for 

■■".1 

:h  a  joy- 

A 

>d  every 

T 

so  com- 

ound  on 

imb-fish' 

i 

md  for  a 

ter  asto- 

'\ 

larmless, 

igenioiis, 

y  friend- 

Yankies, 

. 

sett)  lan- 

pellation 

Yankies, 

p.  irs. 

are  still 

igage  in 

ach  fare 

p 

a  dozen 

W 

he  luxii- 

i^- 

is  a  lit- 

enjoins 

Sv* 

arrives 

ften  oc- 

ea  of  a 

e  seve- 

1 

^hen  on 

formed 

Jider,  or 

(let  me, 

Iss :  im- 


pertinence I  never  met  with,  though  they  have  some- 
times ralher  a  sluitling  plainness   in   their   manncc  of 
conveying  their  sentiments.     Or.  onr  arr:\ai  af  Pongh- 
keepsie,  a  plain  man  sleppfd   t'loin    the  croud   lound 
the  inn-door,  and  aiidiessing  liiinselfto  the  CLeoileiuan 
I  was  acoinpanyinir,  'who  had  been  appointed  to   Jhe 
adiuinistialion  of  Lo  ver  CanaJa,)  wishe<l  him  jctv   of 
his  arrival,  rongratii.afed  him  on  the  peu:e  bc)\» -en 
the  two  nations,  and  concluded  by  hoping  he  would 
not   follow  the  example  of  his  prodocessor  ;  a   kind 
of  schooling,  to  which  I  believe  their  own  ruleis  are 
no  strangers.     In  fact,  the  art  of  govtinm^tnt,  that 
tremendous  state  engine,  is  no  mystery  here  ;  both 
men  and  measures  are  canvassed  with  equal  freedom; 
and,  sitting  aside  the  bias  of  party  feeling,  witii  a  de- 
gree of  good  sense  and  infortriation,  most  probably 
unique  in  the  mass  of  any  nation  on  earth.     The  late 
war  was  spoken  of  ivilh  equal  detestation  by  all  par- 
ties ;  and  so  far  did  they   seem  from  assjuning;  any 
credit  for  engaging  in  it,  that  each  party   most  studi- 
ously shifted  tiie  odium  to  the  other.     I  could  per- 
ceive none  of  that  rancour  against  the  English,  which 
some  Englisilnnan  seem  so  anxious  to  discover.*     In- 
div.dually  J  met  with  all  civilWy  from  all  parties  ;  I 
observe,    indeed,  among  some'of  the  shop-keepers  of 
New  York,  an  indifference  towards  their  customers, 
more  resembling  the  listlessness  of  the  Portuguese, 
than  the  polite  alacrity  of  a  London  tradesman  ;  but  I 
have  no  reason  to  think  we  came  in  for  a  greater  share 
of  it  from  being  Englishmen  :  the  want  of  compelition 
produces  the  same  effect,  both  on  the  tradesman  and 
inn-keeper,  to  whom  it  gives  an  air  of  independence, 
very  commonly  attributed  to  much  profounder  causes. 

*  Is  is  a  curious  circumstanre  that,  white  we  accuse  them  of 
t^vouriiig  the  French,  French  writers  invariatdy  attack  tlwim 
lor  their  rooted,  and.  as  they  deem  it,  biind  partiality  to  the 
English.    Vide  Volney,  Beaujour,  &c. 


*  e 


I-     *K  . 


38 


CHARACTER  OP  THE  AMERICANS. 


M 


I  "■'  I 


'/ 


The  inn-keepers  of    America,    are,  in  most  villa- 
gefl,    what    we    vulgarly  call,    "  topping   men,"  field 
officers  of  militia,  with  good  farais  attached  to  their 
taverns,  so  that  thej  are  apt  to  think,  what,  peihaps 
in  a  newly  settled  country,   is   not  very  wide  of  the 
truth,    that   travellers   rather   receive,   than    confer  a 
favour  by"being  accommodated  at  their  houses.  They 
always  gave  us  plentifid    fare,   particularly    at  break- 
fast,   where   veal-cutlets,    sweetmeats,   cheese,  ej^gg, 
and  ham,  were    most  liberally  set  before  us.     Dinner 
is    little    more    than  a  repetition    of  breakfast,  with 
spirits  instead  lof  colTee.     I  never  heard   wine  called 
for ;     the    common   drink   is    a    small    cyder ;    rum, 
whiskey,  and  brandy,  are   placed   on  the  table,   und 
the  use  of  them  left  to   the  discretion  of  the  compa- 
ny, who  seem  rarely  to  abuse  the  privilege.     Tea  is 
a  meal  of  the  same  solid  construction  with  breakfast, 
answering    also    for  supper.     The  daughters  of  the 
host    officiate    at    tea    and   breakfast,  and    generally 
wait  at  dinner.     Their  behaviour  is  reserved   in  the 
extreme,    but   it  enables    them   to  serve    as   domes- 
licks,  without  losing  their  rank  of  equality  with  those 
on   whom  they  attend.     To  judge  from  the  books  I 
frequently  found  lying  about,  they  are  well   educat- 
ed ;  (he  landlord  of  an  inn  at    Waterford   was   very 
particular  in   inquiring  of  a  gentleman   who  was  with 
me,    for    the    most    accomplished    schoolmistress   of 
New  York,  with  whom   to   place  his  daughter;  the 
same   man,   after  shrewdly   commenting  on   the  con- 
duct of  some  of  (he  first   political   characters  of  the 
country,   summed   up  his  eulozium  on  his   favourite, 
by  saying,  "I  make  no  objection  to  his  lying  and 
intrigues,  for  all   politicians  will   do  the  same."     I 
cannot   pretend   to    say   how   far  this    is  practically 
true  in  America,  but  I   have  reason  to  think  the  sen- 
timent at.  least  too  general.     The  spirit  of  specula- 
tion, in   all   professions   of  life,  seems   to  go  far  to- 
wards  weakening   (he   finer  feelings  of  political  ho- 
nour and   integrity.      The   indolent    habits   of  (he 


)- 


■V 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    AMERICANS. 


3U 


ii^paniard  are  thought  to  be  favourable  to  the  fidelity 
and  honour  observable  in  all  his  transactions ;  the 
commercial  aclivity  of  the  Chinese  degenerates  into 
knavish  trickery.  It  is  for  <he  Americans  to  con- 
sider, (o  which  extreme  they  are  verging,  and  to  re- 
member above  all,  that  the  vital  spirit  of  republi- 
canism is  virtue — but  this  is  going  deeper  than  I 
have  any  pretension  to  do  at  present  ;  1  have  seen 
but  a   little  portion  of  the  ;nere  surface. 

An  English  traveller  is  frequently  surprised  to 
find  the  highest  magistrates  and  officers  of  the  na- 
tion travelling  by  tlie  same  conveyances,  sitting 
down  at  the  same  table,  and  joining  in  conversation 
with  the  meanest  of  the  people  ;  borrowing  from  his 
own  prejudices  of  rank,  he  is  apt  to  fancy  all  the 
great  world  amusing  themselves  in  masquerade.  I 
entered,  casually,  into  conversation,  on  board  the 
steam-boat,  with  a  man  whose  appearance  seemed  to 
denote  something  betwixt  the  shop-keeper  and  farm- 
er, though  his  conversation  marked  him  superior  to 
both.  He  was  the  high  sheriff  of  a  county.  I  re- 
member, among  other  observations,  his  remarks  on 
the  unhappy  condition  of  the  greater  part  of  emi- 
grants into  America,  particularly  the  poorer  Irish, 
who  are  induced  by  Haltering  representations  to 
strain  every  effort  (o  procure  a  passage  to  New 
York,  or  some  sea-port  town,  where  they  are  left  in 
total  ignorance,  both  of  the  country  most  fit  to  set- 
tle in,  iind  of  the  means  of  getting  to  it,  until  their 
little  Hto«  k  is  ti'lier  wasted  by  delay,  or  plundered 
by  sharpers,  and  ihemselvea  reduced  to  beggary,  or 
the  lowest  drudgery  of  society.*  It  is  very  rare  to 
find  a  native  American  begging,  or  indeed  to  find  any 
condition  resembling  beggary  throughout  the  Stales, 
except  in  the  sea-port  towns,  in  which  these  neglect- 
ed wanderers  are  collected. 


*  I  have  hetnl  Amrriraiis  romplain,  (liat  almost  all  tlirir 
orimcs  and  ajiscipim-anoiirs  arr  oommitttd  by  persons  of  tliin 
(inscription. 


i    p 


40 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    AMERICANS. 


,1   \ 


17 


I  i 


To  enlii^hlened    iridiisfry,  this  virgin  continent  of- 
fei'.s  'iiKiiuiinishi^d   resources  ;  nor  where   success  is 
in  p;'os|)ect    will    the  American   turn  his   foot   aside, 
however  rni;;2;ed  the  path  to  it  ;  wilh  hi3  axe  on   his 
shotihler,  his  tumily  and  stock  in  a  light  waggon,  he 
plnniies    into  ("oresfs,    which    have  never    heard   the 
woodinan's  stroke,    clears   a   space  sufficient  for  his 
dwellin.,,  and  first  year's  consumption,  and  gradusdiy 
c«)nver(s  the  lonely  wilderness  into  a  flourishing  farm. 
This  ahnost  national  genius  has  been  ably  delineated 
by  Talleyrand,   Volney,  and    otiier  writers,  whose 
observations  all  concur  on  this   point  of  the    Ameri- 
can character.     A  hutnorous,  but  failhfid  account  of 
the  American  vis  m'rj^ratoria^  is  given  by    Knicker- 
bocker,  !.  c.  vii.     "  The  most   prominent  of  these 
hatiifs  is  a  certain  rambling  propensity,  with  which, 
like  Iho  sons  of  Ishmael,   they   seem   to   have    been 
gifted  by   heaven,  and  which  continually  goads  them 
on,   to   siiift    I  heir   residence   from    place    to    place, 
ao  that  a    Vankee  farmer  is  in   a  constant  stale  of 
mi::;rali!)n  ;    Carrying   occasionally    here    and    there, 
clcuing   lands  for  other  people    to  enjoy,  building 
houses  for  others   to  inhabit,  and  in  a   manner,  may 
be  coMHid'ired  the  wandering  Arab  of  America.     His 
first  thought  on  coming  to  the  years  of  manhood,  is 
to  settle  himself  in  the  world,    which  means   nothing 
more  or   less,    than   to   begin    his  ra.nbles ;    to    this 
emly  he  takes   unto  himself  for  a    wife,  some  dashing 
country    heiress,    that    is    to    say,    a    buxom    rosy- 
cheeked  wench,  passing  rich   in  red  ribbands,   glass 
beads,  ami  mock   torfoise-sheli  combs,  with  a   white 
gown    and  Morocco  shoes,  for    Sunday,  and  deeply 
skilled  in  the  mystery   of  making  apple  sweetmeats, 
lont!-sauce,    and   pumpkin     pie.      Having   thus   pro- 
vided   himself,    like    a    true  pedlar,    with    a    heavy 
knapsack,  wherewith  to  regale  his  shoidders  through 
the  joiu'ney  of  life,  he  literally  sets  out  on  the  pere- 
grination.     His   whole    family,  household   furniture 
and  farming  utensils  are  hoisted  into  a  covered  cart ; 


CHARACTER    OF    THE    AMERICANS. 


41 


inent  of- 
iccess  is 
i\   aside, 
e  on   his 
iggon,  he 
card   the 
t  for  his 
Tfailujdly 
ing  fann. 
lelinealed 
s,  whose 
e    Ameri- 
coount  of 
Knicker- 
of  these 
ih  which, 
ave   been 
ndi  them 
to    place, 
t  stale  of 
ud    there, 
L  building 
iner,  may 
ica.     His 
in  hood,  is 
nothing 
to   this 
dasliing 
n    ro»y- 
idt),   glass 
I  a  white 
d  deeply 
cetrneats, 
[thus   pro- 
a    heavy 
through 
the  pe re- 
furniture 
red  cart ; 


his  own  and  his  wife's  wardrobe  parked  up  in  a 
(irkiii ;  which  done,  he  shouhlets  his  axe,  takes 
staff  in  hand,  whistles  '  Yankee  doodle,'  and  triKJges 
oflT  Jo  the  woods,  as  contidHnl  of  llie  protection  of 
Providence,  an«l  relying  a**  the*  rfidly  upon  his  own 
resources,  as  did  ever  a  patriaich  of  yore,  w  lien  lie 
journeyed  into  a  strange  country  of  the  Genti  es. 
Having  buried  himself  in  the  wiidecneKs,  lie  builds 
hiiMself  a  log-liul,  clears  awa)  n  corn-field  aiut  pota- 
toe  patch;  and  Providence  siniling  ujioii  liis  labours, 
is  Aoou  surrounded  by  a  »nui>:  I'arin,  and  s«)ine  half-a- 
score  of  flaxen  bended  urchins,  who  by  tlieir  size, 
seen)  to  have  spuing  all  at  once  out  of  the  earth, 
like  a  cio(»  of  load-stools. 


'1^ 


in- 


riie  pile  of  civilized  life  widens  daily,  and  pla 
ly  inliiu.ttes  to  the  indignant  and  retiring  liidiiin, 
that  it  will  finally  know  no  limit  but  the  Pacilick. 
Cultivators  Ii.i\e  begun  to  discover  the  superiority 
oflnesoil,  westward  of  the  Alleghany  Ri<lges  :  the 
tide  o*"  emigration  is  accortliiigly  turned  to  the  neiah- 
bourlioo.l  of  the  Ohio.  Sixteen  thousand  waji^nns, 
I  was  loM,  were  counted  last  year  passinsi  the  loll 
briljf  of  Cayuga.  S»)t(lrmen»s  are  creeping  along 
the  Missouri,  and  tlie    moiiih   of  the  Columb 


la    i!)  a 


1- 


ready  designated  to  connect  the  Asmlick  with  the 
European  commerce  of  the  Stales.  Such  is  the 
giMMh,  and  such  the  projects  of  this  fransatlanlick 
re{  iiblick,  great  in  extent  of  ♦iMriiory,  in  an  active 
and  well-irdormed  population  ;  nut  ..hove  all,  in  a  free 
government,  which  not  only  leaves  individual  talent 
unfettered,  liul  calU  ii  in<o  life  by  all  the  inciie- 
meula  of  ambition  luoat  grateful  to  the  hutuan  luind. 


!■     1 


[  42  ] 


CHAPTER  IX. 


•   CANADA. 

Mirch  IStli, 

Isle  aux  Noix. 

SSt  .John's 

12  tnilei. 

■V^ 

Ln  Tiairic 

13 

Montreal 

e 

Albany  to  Montreal 

250 

Tlie  direct  road  is  reckoned  at 

171 

22d. 

Bertliicr, 
Rivnii  dii  Loup. 

23il. 

'liois  Ui<viere8 
Jit     Viuic, 

90 

24tl) 

Cap  S.iiiie, 
St.  AugiistiDe, 

25th. 

Quebec, 

00  sleigbi 

1 

.    ■• 

180 

New  York  to  Albany, 

lOB 

Albany  to  Montreal, 

250 

500  niiie». 

Total  expense  for  three  persons,  four  servants,  and  one 
waggon  load  of  ha^^gagc,  ini-ludiug  six  days'  living  at  Nevf 
York,  7.W  do  liars =!««<.  16s. 


Pn  oTniNo  could  be  more  Siberian  than  Ibe  aspect  of 
the  CaiitUiiaii  frontier :  a  narrow  roail,  choaked  with 
snow,  UmI  lhroii!;h  a  wood,  in  which,  patchrn  were 
occasionally  cleared,  on  either  Hide,  to  admit  (he  con* 
Btriiclion  of  a  lew  log-hulH,  round  which  a  brood  of 
ragged  children,  a  nlarvt'd  pig,  and  a  few  hnlf-broken 
ruHlick  iinplemenlH,  fortiied  an  accoinpaninienl  more 
suited  to  an  Irish  landscape  than  to  the  thriving 
Bccnes  wc  hati  just  ijuitlcd.  The  Canadian  peasant 
ii  still  the  B^me  iinaopbisticatcd  animal  whom  we  may 


..-#  —•• 


CA1?ADA. 


43 


ts,   and  one 

iiig  at  New 


1 


giippose  to  have  been  imported  by  Jacques  Carlier. 
Tlie  sharp,  unchangeable  lineaments  of  the  French 
countenance,  set  off  with  a  blue  or  red  night-cap, 
over  which  is  drawn  the  hood  of  a  grey  capote,  fash- 
ioned like  a  monk's  cowl,  a  red  worsted  girdle,  hair 
tied  in  a  greasy  leathern  queue,  brown  mocassins  of 
undressed  hide,  and  a  short  pipe  in  his  moiilh,  give 
undeniable  testimony  of  the  presence  of  Jean  Bnp- 
tiste.  His  horse  seems  to  have  been  eqiuilly  solici- 
tous to  shame  neither  his  progenitors  nor  his  owner, 
by  any  mixture  with  a  foreign  race,  but  exhibits  the 
same  relationship  to  the  horses,  as  his  rider  to  the 
subjects  of  Louis  XIII.  Now,  too,  the  frequent 
cross  by  (he  road  side,  thick-studded  with  all  the  im- 
plements of  crucitixional  torture,  begins  to  indicate 
^  calholick  country  :  distorted  virgins  and  ghastly 
saints  decorate  each  inn  room,  while  the  light  spires 
of  (he  parish  chiirch,  covered  with  plates  of  tin,  glit- 
ter across  the  snowy  plain. 

At  La  Prairie  we  crossed  the  ice  to  Montreal, 
whose  isolated  mountain  forms  a  couspiiMjous  object 
at  the  distance  of  some  leagues.  From  llience  to 
Quebec  the  road  follows  the  course  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, whose  banks  present  a  succession  of  villages, 
many  of  them  dolightfuily  situated;  but  all  form  and 
feature  were  ahsorbeil  in  the  sn«)wy  deluge,  which 
now  (lecpened  every  league  ;  aibl  to  which,  the  sleigh 
track,  by  frequently  running  on  the  lied  of  the  river, 
placed  us  below  pros|M'cl  of  every  kind.  We  found 
the  inns  neat,  and  the  |)(!0|)le  atlentivt;  ;  French  poli- 
tesse  heiian  to  be  contracted  with  American  blunt- 
ness.  It  is  curious  to  observe  that  this  characteris- 
(ick  o^  ilie  Americans,  wliic  h  so  frecpiently  olfends 
the  polished  feelings  of  Fjiii;lish  travellers,  is  exactly 
what  was  formerly  objiicled  by  (he  French  (o  our- 
selves. The  "  rudesse"  of  (he  Fiiiglisli  charac(er 
was  long  a  stan«ling  jest  with  our  relined  rieiiihbours ; 
but  we  have  now,  it  seems,  solar  shaken  oH'this  odi- 
ous remnant  of  un»ourtly  habits,  as  to  regard  it  with 
true  French  horrour  in  our  Iransatlantick  cousins. 


44 


CAKADA. 


t      .     .I 


^1    .fi 


(    I 


It  was  Siintlaj  when  we  arrived  at  St.  Anne's ; 
mass  was  jiiiit  finished,  and  above  an  hundred  sleighs 
were  rapidly  dispersing  themselres  up  llie  neighbour- 
ins;  heights,  and  across  Ihe  be<l  ot  llie  river,  to  the 
adj:icenl  villages.  The  common  country  sleigh  is  a 
chitnsy,  box-shaped  machine,  raised  ai  both  ends  ; 
perhaps  not  greatly  unlike  the  old  heroick  car.  It 
holds  two  persons,  with  the  driver,  who  stands  before 
theai.  One  horse  is  commonly  sufficient,  but  two 
are  used  in  posting,  when  the  leader  is  attached  by 
coids,  l.mden>-wise,  and  left  to  u>e  his  own  discretion, 
without  ihe  restrdini  ot  rein,  or  impulse  of  whip. 
Stionid,  however,  the  laitersllmnlns  become  intlispen- 
sable,  the  driver  jumps  from  the  sleigh,  runs  forwaid, 
applies  h"**  pack-thread  lash,  and  regains  his  seat 
wiitiodt  any  hazurd  from  extraordinary  increase  of  im- 
pel us.  The  runners  of  these  sleighs  are  fornied  of 
two  slips  of  wooii,  so  low  that  the  shafts  collect  the 
snow  into  a  succession  of  wavy  hillocks,  properly 
chrisfeued  "  c;diols,"  for  they  almost  dislocate  your 
limbs  five  thousiuul  tiu)es  in  a  day's  journey.  An  at- 
tempt wa«  once  mside  to  correct  this  evil,  by  piohi- 
bitina;  all  low  nrmiers,  as  tliey  are  ctdled,  from  cona- 
ing  wiiliin  a  ceiiam  jjiwiance  of  Quebec  ;  meaning, 
therel»^,  to  for«e  Ihe  country  people  into  the  use  of 
high  runners,  in  the  Americar>  lashiou.  Jean  Baptiste, 
however,  sturdily  anti  effectually  resisted  this  he- 
retical innovation,  by  hailing  with  his  proiluce  with- 
out the  limits,  and  thus  compellinj:^  ihe  towns-people 
(o  cotne  lo  him  to  make  theii  purchases.  The  mar- 
kets l)oth  of  Montreal  and  Quebec  »  xhibil  several 
hundred  market  sleighs  dally.  They  ditffr  from  ihe 
pleasure,  01  trtvellinj:  sh-iu,!),  in  having  no  si«les  ;  that 
is,  tliey  consist  mt^rely  of  a  plank  bottom,  with  a  kind 
of  railing.  11  ay  and  wonl  seem  ihe  staple  commo- 
dities at  this  season,  both  of  which  are  immoderately 
dear,  especially  at  Quebec  ;  even  ('trough  the  Siales, 
the  common  charge  lor  one  horse's  hay  for  a  nicht, 
was  a  dollar.     Provisions  are  brought  to  market  fro- 


i 


I 


':^ 


CANADA. 


45 


len,  in  which  stale  (hey  are  preserved  during  winter; 
cod  fish  is  brought  IVoin  Boston,  a  land  carriage  of 
500  miles,  and  then  sells  at  a  reasonable  rale,  the 
American  cominonly  speculating  on  a  cargo  of  smug- 
gled goods  back,  to  make  up  his  profit  ;  a  kind  of 
trade  extremel}'  brisk  betwixt  the  frontier  and  Mon- 
treal. 

As  we  approached  Quebec,  snow  lay  to  the  depth 
of  six  feel  ;  from  the  heights  of  Abram,  the  eye  rest- 
ed upon  what  seemed  an  immense  lake  of  milk  ;  all 
smaller  irregularities  of  ground,  fences,  boumiaries, 
and  copse  woods,  had  disappeared  ;  the  tops  of  \  il- 
lages  and  scattered  farm  houses,  with  here  and  there 
dark  lines  of  pine-wood,  and  occasionally  the  mast  of 
some  ice-locked  schooner,  marking  the  bed  of  the 
Ciiailes  rive.",  were  tiie  only  objects  peering  above 
it.  A  range  of  mountains,  sweeping  round  from 
West  to  North,  unlil  it  meets  the  Si.  Lawrence, 
bounds  the  horizon  ;  no  herald  of  Spring  had  yet 
approached  this  dreary  oulpost  of  civilization  ;  we 
had  ohsL:  ved  a  few  blue  thrushes  in  the  neightiour- 
hood  of  Albany,  but  none  had  yet  reached  Canada  ; 
fwo  only  of  the  feathered  tribe  brave  the  winter  of 
this  inclement  region  ;  the  cosmopolite  crow,  and  the 
snow  bird,*  a  small  white  bird,  reported  to  teed  upon 
snow,  because  it  is  not  very  clear  what  else  it  can 
find. 

It  would  be  acting  unfairly  to  Quebec,  to  describe 
it  as  (  found  it  on  my  arrival,  cho;iked  with  ice  and 
snow,  whij.h  one  day  flooded  the  siroels  with  a  profu- 
sion of  dirty  kennels,  and  llu^  next,  cased  them  with 
a  sheet  of  glass.  Clolh  or  carpet  bonis;  galashes, 
with  spikes  to  their  heels,  iron  poiiiied  walking-sticks, 
are  the  defensive  weapons  perpi'fMally  in  eitipl»)v  on 
thrse  occasions.  The  direction  of  the  sirrets  loo, 
which  are  most  of  ihem  built  up  a  preci[)ire,  trieally 
facilitates  any  inclination  one  may  enterlain  for  tum- 
bling, or  neck-breaking. 


>'^ 


"l     <v,l 


*  Einlioriza  hyraialis. 


[  46   3 


CHAPTER  X. 


■u 


THE  FALLS  OP  MONTMORENCL 


The  falls  of  Montmorenci  are  formed  by  a  little 
river  uf  Ihal  riiiine,  near  its  junction  with  the  St. 
Liiwrence,  at)oiil  five  miles  north  of  Ctnebec.  They 
have  a  peculiar  interest  in  winter,  from  the  immense 
cone  of  ice,  formed  at  their  foot,  which  was  unim- 
paired when  I  visited  them,  in  the  second  week  of 
April.  After  winding  up  a  short  but  steep  ascent, 
the  road  crosses  a  wooden  bridge,  beneath  which  the 
Montmorenci  rushes  betwixt  its  dark  grey  rocks,  and 
precipitates  itself  in  a  broken  torrent  down  a  wooded 
glen  on  the  right ;  it  is  not  until  you  have  wound 
round  the  edge  of  this  glen,  which  i^  tlone  by  quit- 
ting the  road  at  the  bridge-foot,  that  you  obtain  a 
view  of  the  falls  ;  nor  was  their  effect  lessenetl  by 
this  approach  ;  a  partial  thaw,  su(  ceeiled  by  a  frost, 
had  spreail  a  siUery  brightness  over  the  waste  of 
snow.  Every  twi<»;  anti  braiMJi  of  the  surrounding 
pine-trees,  every  waving  siirnb  .uhI  briar  was  encased 
in  chrystal,  and  glittering:;  to  the  sun  beams,  like  the 
diamond  forest  of  eome  northern  rlf-l  'rid.  You  are 
now  on  the  edge  of  a  pjccipice,  to  which  the  fall  it- 
self, a  perpendicular  of  '2'2i)  leet,  se«Mii*i  diminutive? ; 
it  is  not  until  you  descend  and  approach  its  foot, 
that  the  whole  majestv  of  the  scene  becomes  appa- 
rent ;  the  breadth  of  the  torrent  is  about  fifty  feet. 
The  waters,  from  their  prodiijious  descent,  seem 
snowy-white  with  foam,  antI  enveloped  in  a  light  dra- 
pery of  gauzy  mist.  The  cone  appears  about  100 
ieet  in  height ;  matheuialically  regular  in  shape,  with 


THE    FALLS    OF   MORTMORBNCI. 


47 


its  .base  extending  nearly  all  across  the  stream :  its 
sides  are  not  so  steep  but  that  ladies  have  ascended 
to  the  lop  of  it ;  the  interiour  is  hollow.  I  regret  to 
add,  (hat  a  mill  is  ccnstriicling  on  this  river,  which 
will,  by  diverting  the  stream,  destroy  this  imperial 
sport  of  nature  ;  or  at  least  reduce  it  to  the  degrada- 
tion of  isnhtnilling  lo  be  played  olf  at  the  miller's  dis- 
cretion,  like  a  Versailles  fountain. 


'»     11 


A    A 


c 


[  43   3 


CHAPTER   XI. 


QUEBEC   AND  ITS  NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


,•  1 


P!i5  \ 


m\ 


Towards  Ihe  end  of  April,  Ihe  town's  people  begin, 
according  to  a  law  of  the  Province,  to  break  up  ihe 
ice  and  snow  from  before  their  doors  ;  and  by  the  first 
week  in  May,  the  streets  are*toleral)ly  cleared.  The 
intermediate  state,  as  may  be  supposed,  is  a  perfect 
chaos,  through  which  the  stumbling  pedestrian,  like 
the  arch-fiend  of  old, 

••  pursues  his  way, 
"  And  swims,  or  sinks,  or  wades,  or  creeps." 

Meanwhile    the    landscape    begins    to  exchange    its 
snowy  mantle  for  a  russet  brown.     A  few  wild  fowl 
and   woodcocks,    with   some   small   birds,  cautiously 
make  their  appearance  ;  the  sheltered  bottoms  of  Ihe 
pine  woods  throw  aut  the  earliest  flowers;  the  St 
Lawrence  and  Charles  rivers  become  gradually  (lis 
burthened  of  ice,  and  enlivened  by  the  gliding  sail 
still,   however,   the  foot  of  Spring  seems  lingering 
the  mists,  exhaled  by  the  warmth  of  i^ie  sun,  frequent 
\y  encounter  the  keen  north-west,  and  are  again  pre 
cipitated  in  heavy  snow-showers ;  snow  still  blocks 
up  the  roads,  and  fills  the  dells  and  ditches,  sheltered 
from  the  influence  of  the  sun  ;  thus   preserving  the 
gloomy  aspect  of  winter,  through  the  month  of  31ay. 
The  town,  or  rather  city,  of  Quebec,  is  built  on 
the  northern  extremity  of  a  narrow  strip  of  high  land, 
which  follows  the  course  of  the  St.  Lawrence  for  se- 
veral miles,  to  its  confluence  with  (he  Charles.     The 
basis  of  this  height  is  a  dark  alale-iock,  of  which  most 


■ ' 


fin 


qUEBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


49 


ople  begin, 
eak  up  the 
by  the  first 
red.  The 
IS  a  perfect 
istrian,  like 


ivay, 
ps." 

;change    its 
w  wild  fowl 
cautiously 
toms  of  the 
the  St. 
dually  dis- 
iding  !!iail  ; 
lingering ; 
,  frequent- 
again  pre- 
lill  blocks 
,  sheltered 
serving  the 
Ih  of  May. 
is  built  on 
high  land, 
ence  for  se- 
lirles.     The 
which  most 


% 


I 


of  the  buildings  in  the  town  are  constructed.  Cape 
Diamond  tertninates  llie  proinontory,  with  a  bold  pre- 
cipice towards  (he  Sf.  Lawrence,  to  which,  it  is  near- 
ly perpendicular,  at  the  height  of  320  feet.  It  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  clirysfals  of  quartz  found  in 
it,  which  ate  so  abuiulanl,  that  after  a  shower  the 
ground  glitters  with  thern.  The  lower  town  is  built 
round  the  foot  of  these  heights,  without  the  fortifica- 
tions, which,  with  the  upper  town,  occupy  their 
crest,  in  bleak  pre-eminence  ;  the  former,  snug  and 
dirty,  is  the  abode  of  thrivin<f  commerce,  and  of  most 
of  the  lower  classes  employed  about  the  navy.  The 
latter,  cold  and  lofty,  is  the  seat  of  Government,  and 
principal  residence  of  the  military  ;  and  claims,  in 
consequence,  that  kind  of  superiority  which  some 
beads  have  been  said  to  assert  over  the  inglorious 
belly  :  to  speak  the  truth,  neither  has  much  to  boast 
on  the  score,  either  of  beauty,  or  convenience. 

Among  the  principal  buildings,  (he  Government 
house,  or  Castle  of  St.  Louis,  may  take  precedence, 
being  a  thin  blue  building,  which  seems  quivering, 
like  a  theatrical  side  scene,  on  the  verge  of  the  pre- 
cipice, towards  the  St.  Lawrence  :  its  front  resembles 
that  of  a  respectable  gentleman's  house  in  England: 
the  interior  contains  comfortable  family  apartments. 
For  occasions  of  publick  festivity  there  is  another 
building  on  the  opposite  side  of  the  court-yard,  much 
resembling"  a  decayed  gaol.  The  furniture  is  inherit- 
ed, and  paid  for,  by  each  successive  governour. 
The  grant!  entrance  to  the  Chateau  is  flanked  on  one 
side  by  this  grim  mouldering  pile,  and  on  the  other 
by  the  stables,  with  their  appropriate  dung-hills. 
There  is  a  small  garden  on  the  bank  of  the  river, 
commanding,  as  does  the  Chateau  itself,  an  interesting 
view  of  the  opposite  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence. 
These  rise  boldly  precipitous,  clothed  with  pine  and 
cedar  groves,  and  studded  with  white  villages,  and 
detached  farms ;  beyond  which  the  eye  reposes  on 
successive  chains  of  wooded  mountains,  fading  blue 

7 


'       ^  i 


< 


50 


qUEBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


,  ^^*!'' 


t 


! 


W: 


in  the  distant  horizon ;  meanwhile,  the  river  below  is 
spreadin^^  broadly  towards  the  north,  until  it  meets 
and  divides  round  the  Isle  of  Orleans. 

In  front  of  the  Chateau  is  an  open  space  of  ground, 
with  great  capabilities  of  being  converted  into  a 
handsome  square  ;  but  at  this  season,  a  formidable 
barrier  of  bog-land,  intersected  with  rivulets  of  snow- 
water, is  all  that  it  presents  to  the  bewildered  pedes- 
trian, who  endeavours  vainly  to  steer  for  the  castle 
gate.  On  one  side  of  it  stands  the  Protestant  cathe- 
dral church,  an  unfinished  building,  much  more  than 
large  enough  for  the  congregation  usually  assembled 
in  it.  In  style  and  arrangement  it  resembles  a  Lon- 
don parochial  church,  and  has  nothing  about  it  re- 
proachable  with  earthly  beauty.  There  is  a  good 
organ,  but  mute  for  want  of  an  organist  ;  and  as  there 
is  no  choir,  the  heavy  flatness  of  the  service  amply 
secures  the  English  church  from  all  danger  of  being 
crowded  with  the  overflowings  of  its  neighbour,  the 
Catholick  cathedral,  in  which  are  still  displayed,  with 
no  inconsiderable  degree  of  splendour,  the  enticing 
ceremonies  of  the  Romish  worship.  I  was  present  at 
the  service  on  Easter  Sunday  :  a  train  of  not  less 
than  fifty  stoled  priests  and  choristers  surrounded  the 
tapered  altar  :  the  bishop/ofiiciated  in  plenis  pontiji- 
calibuSf  nor  lacked  the  mitre  <' precious  and  auro- 
phrygiate,"  while  the  pealing  organ,  incense  rolling 
from  silver  censers,  and  kneeling  crowds,  thronging 
the  triple  aisles,  presented  a  spectacle,  on  which  (evf 
are  rigid  enough,  either  in  belief  or  unbelief,  to  look 
with  absolute  indifference.  A  lofty  pile  of  ginger- 
bread cakes,  ornamented  with  tinsel,  was  carried  to 
the  bishop  to  receive  his  bletising,  and  a  sprinkling  of 
holy  water,  after  which  they  were  distributed  among 
the  people,  who  received  them  with  most  devout  ea- 
gerness. These  cakes  I  understood  to  be  the  pious 
offering  of  some  devotee,  more  rich  than  wise,  who 
certainly  adopted  a  somewhat  ludicrous  expedient 


i 


dURBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


51 


below  is 
I  it  uteets 

(f  ground, 
;d    into    a 
biinidable 
3  of  snow- 
ed pedes- 
the  castle 
ant  catlie- 
moie  tban 
assembled 
les  a  Lon- 
bout  it  re- 
is  a  good 
id  as  there 
vice  amply 
er  of  being 
;hboiir,  the 
layed,  with 
he  enticing 
s  present  at 
of  not  less 
onnded  the 
\nis  pontifi- 
and  auro- 
lense  rolling 
,  thronging 
which  few 
ief,  to  look 
of  ginger- 
carried  to 
Iprinkling  of 
ited  among 
devout  ea- 
e  the  pious 
wise,  who 
expedient 


"  To  bribe  the  rage  of  ill-requited  Heaven," 

with  gingerbread. 

In  Ca.holick  countries  there  are  few  publick  build- 
ings, either  for  use  or  ornament,  but  are  in  some  way 
coi.'iected  with  religion,  and  most  frequently  with 
charity.  There  are  several  charitable  Calholick  in- 
stiliilions  in  Quebec  :  the  principal  of  these  is  the 
"  riorel  Dieu,"  founded  in  1637,  by  the  Duchess 
D'Aii!;uillon,  (sister  to  Cardinal  Richelieu,)  for  the 
pool  si«'k.  The  establishaient  consists  of  a  superiour 
and  thirty-six  nuns.  The  "  General  Hospital"  is  a 
similar  institution,  consisting  of  a  superiour  and  forty- 
three  nuns,  founded  by  St.  Vallier,  bishop  of  Que- 
bec, in  1693,  for  "Poor  Sick  and  Mendicants."  It 
stands  about  a  mile  from  the  town,  in  a  pleaiiant  mea- 
dow watered  by  the  Charles.  The  style  of  building 
is  simple,  and  well  suited  to  the  purposes  of  the  es- 
tablishment, consistinsi  oidy  of  "  such  plain  roofs  as 
piety  could  raise."  The  present  superiour  is  a  lady 
of  Irish  extraction,  her  age  apparently  bordering  on 
thirty.  In  this  conventual  seclusion,  (devoted  to 
what  might  well  seem  to  the  mind  of  a  delicate  fe- 
male, the  most  disgusting  duties  of  humanity,)  she 
exhibits  that  easy  elegance,  and  softened  cheerfulness 
of  manner,  so  often  affected,  and  rarely  attained  by 
the  many  votaries,  who  dress  their  looks  and  carriage 
in  "  the  glass  of  fashion."  She  conducted  us,  with 
the  greatest  politeness,  through  every  part  of  the 
building,  which,  as  well  as  the  "  Hotel  Uieu,"  in 
poini  of  orh^r,  neatness,  and  arrangetnent,  seems  sin- 
gularly adapk'.i  to  the  comfort  and  recovery  of  the 
unfortunate  beings,  to  whose  reception  they  are  con- 
secrated. Their  funds  1  understood  to  be  small,  and 
managed  with  strict  economy.  They  receive  a  small 
sum  annually  from  Government"^  in  addition  to  the 
revenue  arising  from  their  domain-lands.     There  is 

"^  In  coQsideration  of  which,  soldiers  are  received  as  pa^^tc. 


( 


.^'fl 


t 


w 


•  r-'si  —  1*^  «*>!^»" » ..v^- : .  •«•  -*i 


I 

f  •■! 


.  '•    \'     • 


i      ■>' 


ib!1 


52  (lUCBEC    AND    ITS    NLIGHBOURHOOD.    . 

no  distinction  in  the  admission  of  Catholick  or  Pro- 
testant :  kbe  hand  of  charity  has  spread  a  couch  for 
each  in  his  infiraiities.  Both  houses  have  a  small 
pharmacopoeia  in  charge  of  a  sister  instructed  in  me- 
dicine. The  several  duties  of  tending  the  sick  by 
night,  cooking,  &c.  are  distributed  by  rotation.  Em- 
ployment is  thus  equally  secured  to  all,  and  the  first 
evil  of  cankering  thought  elFectually  prevented.  Good 
humour  and  contented  cheerfulness  seem  to  be  no 
strangers  to  these  *♦  veiled  votaries ;  seem  !  nay, 
perhaps  are ;  for  without  ascribing  any  miraculous  ef- 
fect to  the  devotion  of  a  cloister,  it  is  no  unreasona- 
ble supposition,  that  in  an  eslahlishinent  of  this  kind, 
the  duties  and  occupations  of  which  |)revent  seclu- 
sior.  from  stagnating  into  apathy,  or. thought  from 
fretting  itself  into  peevishness,  a  greater  degree  of 
tranquillity,  (and  this  is  happiness,)  may  possibly  be 
obtained,  than  commonly  tails  to  the  lot  of  those  who 
drudge  through  the  ordinary  callings,  or  weary  them- 
selves with  the  common  enjoy  ments  of  society.  Grave 
men  have  doubted  whether  the  purj)ose8  of  these  in- 
stitutions might  not  be  better  answered  by  our  com- 
mon hospital  establishments,  and  have  even  indulged 
themselves  in  a  sneer,  at  the  idea  of  young  men  being 
attended  in  sickness  by  nuns  !  On  the  question  ge- 
nerally, it  may  be  observed,  that  few  (who  have  any 
knowledge  of  the  system  of  common  hospitals)  can  be 
at  a  loss  \o  appreciate  the  ditfercnce  betwixt  the  ten- 
der solicitude  with  which  charity  smooths,  for  con- 
science sake,  the  bed  of  siilForing,  and  the  heartless, 
grudging  altendance  which  ho-^pital  nurses  intiict  upon 
(heir  victims,  if  the  action  of  the  mind  produce  a 
sensible  etTeot  on  the  frame,  particularly  in  sickness, 
this  is  no  i'ntnateriai  circurnslanre,  in  a  medical  point 
of  view.  Kven  when  the  hour  of  human  aid  is  past, 
it  is,  perhaps,  still  so  nelhing,  that  the  last  earthly  ob- 
ject should  be  a  face  of  sympathy,  ami  the  last  dutiei 
of  humanity  be  paid  with  a  semblance  of  atfection. 
For  those  who  dedicate  themselves  to  this  ministry, 


). 


(tUEBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


53 


k  or  Pro- 
couch  for 
e  a  small 
led  in  me- 
e  sick  by 
ion.     Em- 
d  the  first 
pd.    Good 
to  be   no 
em  !    nay, 
icidons  ef- 
mreatjona- 
this  kind, 
ent  seclii- 
uglit  from 
degree  of 
osHibly  be 
those  who 
»ary  them- 
ly.    Grave 
f  these  in- 
r  our  corn- 
indulged 
men  being 
irstioii  ge- 
have  any 
s)  can  be 
the  ten- 
for  con- 
leartlesa, 
lict  upon 
)roduce  a 
Hirkness, 
ical  point 
id  is  past, 
nrthly  ob- 
ast  dutiei 
affection, 
ministry, 


some  apology  may  be  urged  to  such  as  admit  motive 
as,  at  least  an  exteniialing  circumstance  in  the  consi- 
deration of  erroiir.  The  moral  crilicks,  perhaps, 
who  are  foremost  to  coiidetiin  their  practice  as  super- 
stitious, revolt  less  tVom  the  supposition,  than  from 
the  self-sacrifite  it  requires.  Let  the  lash  of  satire 
fall  mercilesly  on  mere  bitiols,  wherever  they  are 
found  ;  but  against  the  spirit,  which,  abjuriug  the 
pleasures,  devotes  itself  to  the  moyt  painful  duties  of 
lite,  what  argument  can  be  direcled,  which  may  not 
be  left  for  its  refutation  to  the  prayers  and  l)lessings 
of  the  poor?  The  most  objeclionabic  part  of  the  in- 
stitution seems  to  be  the  cornmilling  of  insane  per- 
sons, of  both  sexes,  to  the  charge  ot  females  :  the  an- 
swer is,  that  there  is  no  other  asylum  for  them;  the 
blame  therefore  attaches  to  the  police  of  the  coun- 
try ;  for  it  is  evident,  that  womtri  aie  very  inadctpiate 
to  the  charge  of  such  patients  us  require  coercive 
treatment,  particularly  ujen."^' 

The  Ursuline  Cunvcnl,  founded  by  Madame  de 
la  Pellrie,  in  1(539,  for  the  education  of  female  chil- 
dren, stands  within  the  city.  It  has,  both  in  its  inte- 
rior decoration,  and  the  dress  of  its  inhabitants,  a 
greater    appearance    of    wealth    than    the    "  General 


Hospital,"   and   "Hotel   J) 


UMI. 


Among  the  orna- 


ments of  the  chapel,  we  were  particularly  directed  (o 
the  skull  and  bones  of  a  missionary  who  had  been 
murdered  by  the  savages,  for  at\etnpting  their  con- 
version :  it  is  perhitps  doubtful,  consideilng  the  gene- 
ral inditrerence  of  the  Indians  on  matters  of  religious 
controversy,  whether  this  was  the  real  and  sole  of- 
ftiM  ('  bv  which  he  won  the  crown  of  niartyrdotn. 
These  nuns  have  generally  about  'JOO  little  girls  un- 
der their  care,  but  I  was  sorry  to  ol)Herve  their  edu- 
cation bought  with  their  health  ;  not  one  of  them  but 
ha<l  a  pallid  sickly  appearance,  arising  probably  from 

*  We  saw  one  patient,  who  would  never  sutler  himself  to  be 
eloatheil. 


•*i**^k^f 


54 


(QUEBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


much  cotiiliieinent,  during  a  lung  witiler,  in  an  atmos- 
piiore  highly  healed  wifh  stoves,  joined  to  the  salt, 
un.vhctlesoine  diet,  generally  u»«ed  by  tiie  Canadians. 
I  ought  not  to  oaiil,  tor  the  honour  of  these  ladies' 
c.'jai'ity,  thai  they  keep  a  town  bull. 

The  seminary  is  a  collegiate  institution,  for  the 
gratuitous  inslruction  of  the  Catholic  youth  of  Can* 
ada.  The  uiiniier  of  scholars  is  couKUonly  about  200. 
Tiie  expenses  of  professors,  teaching,  ice.  are  de- 
frayed by  the  revenue  arising  from  the  Seignioral  do- 
mains, belonging  to  tlie  eslal>lishment.  Th«!  course 
of  studies  here  rjuaiifiijs  for  ordination.  There  is  a 
sm  ill  lUiiseu  n,  or  ''cabinet  de  physique,"  which 
soe  us  in  a  growing  condition;  it  contains,  besides 
nalurd  cario-)ities,  electrical  apparatus,  telescopes 
and  other  iustrumenls  of  science.  The  library  is 
so  newhiit  too  theological ;  there  is  a  S'uall  hell  at- 
taclie  I  to  it,  in  which  f  perceived  our  common  Pray- 
er \i  toics,  Testaments,  &c.  in  company  with  many 
diviu'^s,  as  well  Catholic  as  Protestant,  Bayle,  and  a 
few  travellers  and  philosophers,  but  the  greater  part 
theologians.  Tne  ohl  palace,  besides  tho  chambers 
for  the  council,  and  House  of  Assembly,  contains  a 
good  publick  library  ;  the  nature  of  the  collection,  may 
be  defmed  generally,  as  the  reverse  of  that  of  the 
seminary  library.  There  is  a  good  assortment  of  his- 
torical works,  of  a  standard  quality,  and  of  travels  ; 
but  no  classicks,  proi)ably  because  none  of  the  inhabi- 
tants atPect  to  read  tluun.  A  library  is  also  on  the 
eve  of  being  established,  by  the  ofHcers  of  the  staff 
and  garrison;  but  the  society  of  Ciucbcc  is  generally 
on  too  limited  a  scale,  and  too  exclusively  military 
or  CO  n>nercial,  to  foster  any  considerable  spirit  of 
literature  or  science.  An  attetnpt  was  made  during 
Sir  fl.  Prevost's  administration,  to  establish  a  society 
on  the  plan  of  the  lloyal  Institution,  but  it  fell  to  the 
ground,  for  want  of  a  stifBciency  of  eflioient  members, 
eleven  being  the  supposed  necessary  quantum  to  be- 
gin with ;   nor   is  this  seeming  scarcity   surprising, 


..^1^  ■  t  ^.^^^^-^ 


3D, 


QOFBEC    AND    ITS    NEICHBOURIIOOU. 


OJ 


1  an  atmos- 
to  the  suit, 
Cuiiatiiaiis. 
lese  ladies' 

in,  for  the 
(h  of  Can- 
about  200. 
c.    are  de- 
ignioral  do- 
^lit!  course 
rhere  h  a 
le,"    which 
19,   besides 
telescopes 
library  is 
dl   hell    at- 
iinon  Pray- 
with  many 
yle,  and  a 
reater  part 
chambers 
contains  a 
!Ction,  may 
^at  of  the 
lent  of  his- 
>f  travels  ; 
the  inliabi- 
Imo  on  the 
f  the   staff 
9  generally 
y  military 
;  spirit   of 
(Ic  during 
I  society 
fnll  to  the 
members, 
urn  to  be- 
urprising, 


when  we  consider,  lliat  the  short  Canadian  summer 
is  appro[)riated  lo  business,  ami  that  duiiii^;  the  te- 
dious winter,  I  he  men  are  never  tired  of  dinners,  nor 
the  Indies  of  diuri'inj;. 

Tlieie  are  some  peculiar  mid  inlerestinj;  features  in 
the  neii^libourhood  of  Quebec.  The  lofty  lianks  of  the 
St.  Lawrence,  tVom  Cape  Diaujond  to  C.ipe  lJon5i;e,arc 
coMH)0'<ed  of  clay-slale,  fienei;dly  ol  a  daik  colour, 
someliiiios  of  a  dull  red,  whence  the  name  of  "  Cap 
RouLie."  The  bed  ol  the  river  is  of  the  same  crum- 
bling!; slone  ;  and  bei.ig  triturated  by  time  and  the 
eleaients,  i^ives  its  sands  a  cluse  resemblance,  both 
in  colour  ami  consistency,  to  smith's  liliugs.  Bare 
however,  as  they  are  of  soil,  these  perpendicular 
cidfsi  are  every  where  cloathcd  with  a  luxuriant  ver- 
d(ne  of  slind)s  and  trees,  whose  roots,  wreathing 
Iheuiselvfs  romid  barren  rocks,  seem  to  woo  fiom 
the  charily  of  the  heavens,  (lie  nutrinient  denied 
them  by  a  nigs^ard  parent. 

About  two  miles  above  Quebec,  a  break  in  the 
masi^nificent  line  of  c  I  ills  forms  the  lillle  recess,  called 
Wolfe's  Cov    •  a  jleen.nalh-way  leads  upllie  iui-xlils 


to    the    plai, 


!p.pr 
\bram :    traces   of  field-woiks   are 


still  visible  .j  "  (urf,  and  the  sloue  is  pouiied  out 
on  whicli  the  nero  expired.  The  cove  is  al  |):«  sent 
appropriated  lo  the  reception  of  lumber,  whirh  comes 
down  the  river  from  the  States  and  I'pper  Fiovim  e, 
in  rafts,  which  frequently  co\er  the  surface  of  h.df 
an  acre  ;  when  the  wind  is  favourable,  they  sfuead 
10  or  12  s(piare  sails,  at  other  limes   llu-y    nir   jiolcd 


down 


tl 


le    men,   who    navmalc 


tl 


icm, 


build 


Sli'ill 


wootlen  houses  on  them,  and  thus,  Iraiisporird  niih 
their  families,  poultry,  and  iVcipienlly  cat  lie,  fiom  a 
complete  Hoating  village.  A  v'lcat  piopoitinu  of  the 
timber  is  brought  from  lake  Cliamplaiu,  and  ihe  trade 
is  almost  wholly  in  the  hantls  of  tlu-  Americans. 

A  setomi  crescent-like  recess,  about  a  mile  from 
Wolfe's  Cove,  conceals  Ihe  little  village  of  Sillori. 
Nothiii-^  can  be  more  romantic  than  the  sec!  ision  of 
this  charming  spot.     The  river  road  to  it  turns  round 


i 


56 


i^VEBKC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


!  '     t' 


the  foot  of  gigantic  clifFs,  which  seem  interposed  be- 
ttvixt  it  anil  the  world's  turmoil.  The  heights  which 
encircle  it  are  deeply  wooded  to  their  summits,  and 
retire  sutficienlly  from  the  river  to  leave  a  pleasant 
meadow  and  hop-ground  round  the  village,  consisting 
of  about  half-a-dozen  neat  white  houses,  one  of  which 
is  an  inn.  On  the  river's  edire  stands  the  ruin  of  an 
old  religious  house,  built  by  French  missionaries,  for 
the  purpose  of  preaching  to  the  Huron  tribes,  who' 
then  inhabited  this  neighbourhood.  There  is  now 
no  trace  of  these  missionaries,  or  of  their  labours, 
-xcej)t  in  the  little  village  of  Lorelfo,  which  contains 
the  only  surviving  relicks  of  the  once  powerful  Huron 
nation*' :  so  efficacioisly  have  disease  and  gunpow- 
der seconded  the  converting  zeal  of  Europeans. 
Besides  flie  road  which  winds  under  the  clilTs,  Sil- 
lori  has  two  leading  to  Quebec  through  the  woods. 
These  woods  cover  the  greater  part  of  the  country, 
betwixt  the  St.  Foi  road,  and  the  river,  offering  all 
the  luxury  of  shade  and  sylvan  lovelincs  to  the  few 
disposed  to  accept  it.  I  say,  the  few,  for  the  fash- 
ionables of  Quebec  commonly  prefer  fnaking  a  kind 
of  Rotten  Row  of  the  Plains  of  Abram,  round  which 
they  parade  with  the  periodical  uniformity  of  blind 
horses  in  a  mill. 

Lake  Charles  is  generally  talked  oT  as  one  of  the 
pleasantest  spot*  round  Quebec,  and  instances  have 
been  known  of  parties  of  pleasure  reaching  it.  It  is 
about  three  miles  in  length;  and  perhaps  ono  at  its 
greatest  breadth.  Towaids  the  midille  of  it,  two 
rocky  points  shoot  out  so  as  to  form,  properly  speak- 
ing, two  lakes,  connected  by  a  narrow  channel.  A 
scattered  hamlet,  taking  its  name  from  the  lake,  is 
geer  with  its  meadows  and  tufted  orchards  along  the 
right  bank  of  the  outward  basin.  Wooded  heights 
rise  on  the  opposite  shore,  and  surround  the  whole 
of  the  interior  lake,  descending  every  where  to  the 
water's  »"lgo,  the  whole  forming  a  scene  of  lovely 
loneliness,  scarcely  intruded  on  by  the  canoe  of  th^ 


■K 


*■% 


*  Alioiit  I'ortv  heads  of  families. 


QUEBEC    AND    ITS    NEIGHBOURHOOD. 


57 


silent  angler.  There  is  more  in  (he  whole  landscape 
to  feel,  than  to  talk  about,  so  that  it  is  little  wonder- 
ful that  an  excursion  to  Lake  Charles  should  be  more 
frequently  talked  about,  than  made. 

The  Huron  village  of  Loretto  stands  on  the  left 
bank  of  the  Charles  about  four  miles  below  the  Lake, 
(eii^ht    from   Quehec.)     The  river,  immediately   on 
passing  the  bridge,  below  (he  village,  rushes   down 
its  broken  bed   of  granite,  with   a  descent   of  about 
seven(y  feet,  and  buries  itself  in  (he  windings  of  (he 
deeply-shatlowed  glen  below.     A   part  of  the  fall  is 
diverted  (o  turn  a  mill,  which  seems  fearfully  suspen- 
ded above  the  foaming  torrent.     The  village  covers 
a  plot  of  ground  very  much  in  the  manner  of  an   En- 
glish barracli,  and  altogether  the  reverse  of  (he  strag- 
gling Canadian  melhod  ;     it   is,    in  fact,  the   method 
of   their   ances(ors.     I   found    (he   children   amusing 
themselves  wi(h  li((le  bows  and  arrows.     The  houses 
bad    generally  an   air  of  poverty  and    slovenliness : 
tha(,  however,  of  their  principal  chief,  whom   I   visit- 
ed, was  neat  and  comfortable.     One  of  their  old  men 
gave  me  a  long  account  of  the  manner  in  which  the 
Jesuits  had  contrived  to  trick  (hem  ou(  of  (heir  seig- 
nioral  righ(s,  and  possession  of  (he  gran(  of  land  made 
thern  by  the  king  of  France,  which  consisted,  origin- 
ally, of  four  leagues,  by  one  in  bread(h,  from  Sillori, 
nor(h.     Two  leagues  of  (his,  which  were  taken  from 
then  by   (he  riench  government,  upon  promise  of 
an  equiva!    it,  (hey  give  up,  he  said,  as  los(  ;   but  as 
the  property  oi  ilii;  Jesuits  is  a(  presen(  in  the  hands 
of  commissioners    iijtpointed    by    our    Governmen(, 
they    were    in    hopes   of  recovering   (he   remainder, 
which  it  never  could  be  proved  (hat  (heir  ances(ors 
ei(her   gave,    sold,    lou(,    or    in    any    way    alienated. 
Aldiough  (he  oldest  among  (hem  re(uin«  no  remem- 
brance of  the  wandering  lif(;  of  their  ancestors,   it  la 
Rtill  the  life  (hey  ».ove( ;  "for,"  said  a  young  ITuron, 
"  on   s^emntie  dans  h  village,  it   on    nt     s'ennuie 
jamais  daus  Irs  hois.** 

8 


'      il 


*  Mh 


[  58  ] 


CHAPTER   XII. 


QUEBEC  TO  K  AMOUR  ASK  A. 


July  16th.  St.  Thomas 
17th.  Riviere  Ouelle 
18th.  Kamouraska 


36  Miles. 

42 

12 

90  Miles 


..  > 


TO  ftUEBEC  BY  THE  NORTH  SHORE. 


21 9t.  Malbay 

22d.  St    Paul's  Bay 
24th.  La  Peti'e  Riviere 
25th.  St.  Joaliioi 
Quebec 


20  Ferry. 

30 

le  Water 

18  do. 

TfO 

no 

90 
200 


Opposite  to  Quebec  is  Point  Levi,  a  command- 
ing eminence  on  the  right  bank  of  St.  Lawrence, 
whose  breadth  here  is  little  above  a  mile.  A  party 
of  Michmac  Indians  were  encamped  on  the  shore. 
They  were  the  tirst  Indians  1  had  seen,  in  any 
thing  like  their  original  condition  of  life,  and  are  al- 
most the  only  ones  to  be  seen  about  Quebec.  Their 
encampment  consisted  of  four  tents,  raised  with  pine 
poles,  and  covered  with  the  bark  of  the  white  birch) 
which  is  used  generally  for  this  purpose,  and  for 
canoes,  by  all  the  tribes  of  the  continent.  Two 
women  were  gumming  their  canoe  at  the  water's 
edge  ;  three  or  four  little  half-naked  "  bronzed  varl- 


pr-^ 


^nBBEC    TO    KAMODRASKA. 


69 


ets"  were  dabbling  in  the  tide,  who,  on  my  coming 
up,  began  to  articulate  "  bow  d'ye  do,"  in  Michraac 
English.  A  man  in  one  of  the  tents  was  making 
small  canoes  for  children's  toys,  and  the  rest  were  in 
that  state  of  indolence,  most  accordant  to  their  dis- 
positions, when  their  circumstances  will  permit  it. 
In  dress  and  personal  appearance  they  were  too  like 
gypsies  to  require  more  particular  description,  ex- 
cept that  their  cheek-bones,  high,  and  set  wide  apart, 
rendered  them  the  ugliest  looking  mortals  1  had 
ever  seen.  The  Michmacs  originally  dwelt  and 
hunted  betwixt  the  shores  of  Nova  S  otia  and  the 
St.  Lawrence.  Like  all  Indians  t.iclosed  within 
the  pale  of  civilization,  they  are  wasting  fast  from 
the  effects  of  spirituous  liquors,  bad  living,  and  in- 
dolent habits ;  deprived  of  the  resource  of  the  chase 
by  the  progress  of  agriculture,  they  wander  on  the 
^  shores  of  the  St.  Lawrence,  fish,  beg,  or  steal,  and 

^  live  as   they  can,  that  is,  ill  enough. 

«  St.  Michel  is  remarkable  for  the  neatest  inn  in  the 

I  country ;  1  dined   there,  and  slept  at  the   house  of 

f  Mr.  Couillard,  a  Canadian  gentleman.     His  house, 

}  which  he  had  lately  erected,  was  a  substantial  stone 

building,  furnished  in  the  plainest  manner,  much  per- 
haps, as  were  those  of  our  country  gentlemen  a 
century  ago ;  that  is,  much  wainscot,  no  papering, 
little  or  no  mahogany,  plain  delf  ware,  a  rustic  estab- 
lishment, with  two  or  three  little  girls  to  wait,  in- 
stead of  a  footman,  and  as  many  large  dogs  for  por- 
ters. In  the  morning,  Mr.  Couillard  accompanied 
me  to  the  mouth  of  the  South  River,  which  falls 
over  a  ledge  of  rocks  into  the  St.  Lawrence,  below 
bis  house,  where  the  early  fisherman  was  jus^  visiting 
his  nets,  stretched  below  the  fall.  We  returned 
through  the  village,  which  is  one  of  the  neatest  in 
the  province ;  the  houses  are  placed  in  the  Dutch 
fashion,  with  the  gable  end  to  the  road.  The  num- 
ber of  inhabitants  in  the  whole  parish  is  reckoned  at 
1500,  who  have  among  them   1000  children  ;  a  good 


I 


'      «J 


^N 


H  ■     tl 


60 


HUEBEC    TO    KAMOUttASKA. 


proof,  as  Mr.  Couillard  seemed  justly  to  think,  of 
their  populative  difiposiiion.  On  entering  <he  church, 
we  found  (he  priest  drilling  a  considerable  number 
of  them,  previous  to  their  receiving  the  sacrament, 
and  bestowing  a  box  on  the  ear,  whenever  it  seemed 
necessary,  to  accustom  the  head  to  its  proper  posi- 
tion.    There  is  an  English  sch^')!  in  the  village.* 

The  tract  of  country  betwixt  Quebec  and  St. 
Thomas,  is  generally  a  flat,  of  variable  breadth,  lying 
betwixt  the  river  and  a  chain  of  mountains  or  high 
lands,  which  follows  the  same  direction,  sometimes 
approaching  nearer  to,  and  sometimes  retiring  from 
its  banks.  In  the  neighbourhood  of  St.  Thomas,  the 
breadth  of  cidtivated  land  seldom  seems  to  exceed 
two  leagues  :  beyond  is  hill  and  forest,  into  which 
no  Canadian  has  yet  ventured  to  penetrate  for  the 
purpose  of  settlement.  Indeed,  the  most  prominent 
trait  in  the  character  of  this  people,  is  an  attachment 
to  whatever  is  established.  Far  different  in  this 
respect  from  the  American,  the  Canadian  will  sub- 
mit to  any  privation,  rather  than  quit  the  spot  his 
forefathers  tilled,  or  remove  from  the  sound  of  hrs 
parish  bells. 

The  next  evening  brought  me  to  the  village  of 
Quelle,  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  a  river  so  call- 
ed. I  had  a  letter  to  the  Seigneur,  Mr.  Casgrin, 
whom  I  found  near  the  ferry,  busied  among  his 
workmen,  in  the  superintendance  of  a  new  bridge, 
to  supply  the  place  of  the  ferry.  He  received  me 
very  politely,  and  having  conducted  me  to  a  neat 
house,  facing  the  stream,  invited  me  to  his  family 
supper,  which  in  Canada,  as  well  as  in  the  States, 
is  formed  by  a  combination  of  the  tea  equipage,  with 
the  constituent  parts  of  a  more  substantial  meal. 
He  introduced  me  to  his  architect,  whose  appearance 
well  answered   Mr.   Casgrin's  description  of  "  rusti' 


•S 


I 


'"  By  an  Act  41  Geo.  3.  an  English  scliool  is  established  in 
each  of  the  pruicipal  villages  of  the  Lower  Province. 


HUEBEC     TO     KAMODRASKA. 


61 


al)iished  in 


CHS,  itbnnrmis,  sapiens.^*  The  whole  of  his  work- 
men, 45  in  nutiiber,  were,  according  (o  (he  ciisiom 
of  fbe  country,  hoarded  and  lodged  in  Jiis  house  ; 
and  1  mnat  do  them  the  justice  to  sa  v ,  \5  quiet<3r 
people  never  lodjied  beneath  a  roof.  Eaily  hours 
being  the  order  of  Ihe  day,  we  retired  to  rest  at 
nine  o'clock  ;  after  an  early  breakfast,  a  relation  of 
my  host  took  ine  in  his  caleche,  to  visit  a  porpoise 
fishing  in  the  neighbourhood;  the  dri\e  was  about 
four  miles,  the  last  two  of  them  through  a  pine 
wood,  preserved  roiin<l  the  (isheiy,  that  tlie  noise  of 
agricultural  occupations  may  not  frighten  the  game 
from  the  shore.  The  fishery  lies  betwixt  the  moidh 
of  the  Oiielle,  and  a  ridge  of  rocks  jutting  into  the 
St.  Lawrence,  about  a  mile  below  it — from  (he  ex- 
Iremify  of  this  ridge,  an  enclosure  of  stakes  runs  a 
considerable  way  obliquely  across  the  stream,  and 
by  crossing  the  retreat  of  the  poi poises,  as  the  tide 
falls,  conducts  them  into  shallow  water,  where  they 
are  harpooned  ;  I  saw  one  on  (he  beach,  which  had 
been  taken  (hat  morning;  he  was  a  small  one,  mea- 
suring but  10  feet  in  length,  much  more  like  a  fat 
white  hog,  than  a  (ish  ;  the  aperture  of  the  ear  is 
covered  by  the  skin,  and  by  no  means  indicates  the 
acnteness  of  hearing  ascribed  to  (his  animal  by  (he 
fishermen  ;  the  largest  are  18  feet  in  length,  and  are 
computed  (o  yield  two  hogsheads  of  oil  each,  the 
quality  of  which  makes  i(  in  high  request  among  the 
natives,  even  for  culinary  purposes.  1  was  (old, 
that  as  many  as  300  were  sometimes  taken  in  a 
morning;  the  Seigneur  is  entitled  (o -yV'h,  and  Mr. 
Casgrin  received  ^th,  besides,  as  pan  owner.  On 
the  ledge  of  rocks  was  placed  a  small  wooden  cross, 
on  which,  every  spring,  (he  Cure  is  summoned  (o 
bestow  his  benediction,  without  which,  no  success  is 
to  be  expected  (hrough  the  season.  As  the  fishery 
is  at  present  rather  on  the  decline,  it  is  probable  the 
porpoises  have  hit  upon  some  counter-charm.  The 
inhabitants  point  out  as  a  great  curiosity,  a  succea- 


'    il 


62 


HOEBEC   TO     KAMOURA8KA. 


)         i 


n 


'I  ,1 


sion  of  marks  or  fractures  on  these  rocks,  which, 
from  their  shape,  they  call  the  Rackets,  or  Snow 
Shoes,  to  which,  they  certainly  bear  considerable 
resemblance,  both  in  shape,  size,  and  position,  being 
placed  much  at  the  distance  a  man  would  step.  My 
host,  probably  no  great  geologist,  conjectured  they 
were  really  the  impression  of  shoes,  made  while  the 
rock  was  soft ;  and  this  explanation  perfectly  satis- 
fies the  whole  neighbourhood.  Perhaps  many  im- 
portant systems  are  built  on  analogies,  not  much 
closer. 

For  some  miles  before  reaching  Kamouraska,  a 
striking  difference  becomes  visible  in  the  appearance 
of  the  country.  The  basis  of  the  soil  had  hitherto 
consisted  of  the  same  clay-slate,  generally  red,  which 
constitutes  the  bed  and  banks  of  the  Si.  Lawrence 
about  Quebec,  interspersed  with  frequent  detached 
blocks  and  masses  of  granite,  apparently  springing 
through  it.  Here,  however,  granite  begins  to  quit 
its  secondary  rank,  and  gradually  seems  to  become 
the  general  substratum  of  the  soil  :*  instead  of  scat- 
tered masses,  lofty  ridges  and  mounds  of  considera- 
ble size  make  their  appearance.  At  St.  Roch,  the 
road  runs  for  nearly  a  mile  beneath  a  perpendicular 
ledge  of  it,  probably  300  feet  in  height.  Towards 
Kamouraska,  it  rises  into  a  succession  of  sharp  coni- 
cal hills,  resembling  a  line  of  lofty  pyramids,  ranged 
at  angles  to  the  course  of  the  river.  The  most 
singular  mass  of  this  kind,  I  had  an  opportunity  of 
observing  closely,  is  about  two  miles  below  Kamour- 
aska; its  circumference  is  about  a  league  at  the 
base ;  the  height  may  be  betwixt  4  and  500  feet ; 
its  sides  rise  in  many  places  as  smoothly  perpendicu- 
lar as  if  cut  down  by  an  axe,  scarcely  yielding  a 
fissure,  in  which  the  stunted  cedar  can  take  root. 
A  flat  meadow  divides  this  immense  rock  from  an- 


( 


*  The  valley  of  the  river  Oaelie  produces  liraeslone,  but  of 
an  inferiour  quality.  .^    . 


Il  j*i!i' 


«IUEBCC    TO    KAMOURABKA. 


63 


other,  seemingly  of  nearly  equal  dimensions,  and 
towering  up  no  less  boldly.  The  small  space  which 
divides  them,  (not  a  quarter  of  a  mile,)  and  the 
perfect  congruity  of  their  shape,  irresistibly  impress 
on  the  mind,  the  idea  of  their  having  once  formed  a 
single  mountain. 

Kamouraska  is  pleasantly  situated  on  the  St. 
Lawrence,  and  is  a  village  of  some  resort  during 
summer,  for  sea-bathing  ;  the  salt-water  first  evident- 
ly commencing  in  this  neighbourhood.  The  parish 
is  of  some  extent,  as  may  be  conjectured  from  the 
value  of  the  cure,  estimated  at  1000/.  per  annum; 
that  is,  when  all  dues  are  fully  paid,  which  was  not 
the  case  with  the  last  cure,  recently  deceased,  who, 
"  good  easy  man,"  was  not  only  content  to  receive 
what  his  parishoners  chose  to  give  him,  generally 
about  one-third  of  his  right,  but  gave  away  half  of 
the  little  remainder,  living  in  a  crazy  tenement,  on 
apostolic  diet,  and  amusing  himself  by  walking  on 
the  beach,  to  ask  and  hear  the  news.  Opposite 
Kamouraska  is  a  cluster  of  small  islands,  or  rather 
wooded  rocks,  round  which  there  are  considerable 
fisheries  of  salmon,  herrings,  and  sardines ;  the  first 
two  of  which  are  cured  and  exported  to  the  West 
Indies.  These  fisheries  ^are  constructed  much  like 
the  porpoise  fishery ;  a  considerable  space  of  water 
is  enclosed  with  two  hedges,  tapering  to  a  point,  and 
terminating  in  a  small  circular  basin,  from  which  the 
fish  are  laken  at  low  water.  I  spent  the  greater  part 
of  a  day,  on  one  of  these  islands,  with  a  Canadian 
gentleman,  to  whom  some  of  the  fisheries  belonged  ; 
we  went  round  them  in  a  cart,  to  take  out  our  fish, 
which  we  broiled,  and  dined  d  la  mUitaire,  tinder 
our  tent,  on  the  rocks.  Their  stony  soil,  besides 
pine  and  cedar,  and  a  variety  of  shrubs,  produces 
the  wild  gooseberry,  rasberry,  cherry,  and  plum,  in 
great  abundance.  A  telegraph  is  erected  on  one  of 
them,  where  the  soldiers  have  established  a  thriving 
potatoe  garden.     We  returned  to  Kamouraska  in  the 


*- '"  .'itti  »'i     ii«><IH|< 


•  ,..- 


64 


ClUEBEC    TO    KAiMOURASKA. 


\*         \ 


f    ; 


:i 


! 


»» 


evening,  cheered  on  our  way  with  Ihe  rude  harmony 
of  the  Canadian  boat-song. 

The  gruund  rises  gradually  behind  Kawouraska 
into  a  liigh  rocky  ridge,  from  whence  the  eye  dwells 
delighted  on  the  broad  St.  Lawrence,  studded  with 
woody  isles,  and  bounded  by  the  bold  mountain 
shore  of  the  northern  bank.  '  The  little  river  of 
Kainouraska,  descending  from  the  eastern  mountains 
encounter!^  this  granite  ridge,  and  falls  in  a  brnad 
sheet  over  u  natural  wall  of  about  thirty  feet  in  height ; 
a  portion  of  the  current  is  diverted  from  the  summit 
to  turn  a  grist  mill,  the  property  of  the  Seigneur, 
who  receives  one  fourteenth  of  the  quantity  ground, 
amounting  to  one  thousand  bushels  of  wheat  per  an- 
ninn,  in  addition  to  the  miller's  fee.  The  miller 
is  an  old  Hanoverian,  who  served  in  the  American 
war. 

The  St.  Lawrence  is  twenty-two  miles  broad  at 
Kamouraska.  I  was  the  whole  of  a  day  crossing  it, 
in  a  little  boat,  to  Malbay,  or  rather  to  a  scattered 
hamlet,  four  miles  to  the  north  of  it,  the  falling  tide 
hav^ing  prevented  our  doubling  the  last  rocky  point. 
From  iience  I  was  carted  to  the  ferry  of  the  little 
river  at  the  mouth  of  which  the  village  stands.  I 
inquired,  as  is  the  custom  in  the  untravelled  parts  of 
Canada,  for  the  best  house,  in  which  to  find  hospi- 
tality for  the  night,  and  was  directed  to  that  of 
Madame  Nairn,  the  lady  of  the  Seignory.  I  found 
it  a  plain,  and  rather  large  dwelling,  standing  in  a 
meadow,  on  the  edge  of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The 
lady  was  from  home,  but  an  old  domestick  assiduous- 
ly welcomed  me  in :  wine  was  immediately  offered 
me,  and  in  a  few  minutes,  refreshments  were  on  the 
table  ;  eggs,  tea,  and  bread  and  butter,  to  which  a 
long  fast  inclined  me  to  tlo  ample  justice.  I  after- 
wards walked  round  the  village.  Its  site  is  a  small 
semicircle  of  alluvial  land  lying  at  the  foot  of  moun- 
tains of  a  bolder  and  more  romantick  character  than 
any  i  had  yet  seen  in  Canada.     The  only  aperture 


A 


•ywuiBfi'  tU^' 


QUEBEC    TO    KAMOURASKA. 


65 


in  the  chain  afTords  a  passage  (o  the   Miilbay  river, 
which  emerges   from  a  darkly -shaded  glen,  un   the 
north  wesf  of  Ihe  villau;e.     The   houses,   about   forty 
ot  hfly  in  number,   tollow  (he  curve  of   the  soil,  or 
banks  of  (he  :)lreauile(,   near   (he   mou(h   of  which   a 
neat   whde   church    rises,    in    striking    relief,  against 
the  dark  bold  mountain,  towering  about  half  a  mile 
beyond    it.     Near  the  S(.   Lawrence  1  observed  a 
number  of  sharp  conical  sand  liills,  or   mounds,  from 
ten  to  forty  fee(   in  height.     The  extreme  regulari(y 
of  their  figure   s{rongly   impressed    me   with  an  idea 
of   their    artificial    cuustruc(iou  ;     upon    an    En2;lish 
down   (hey  woulti  pass  for   barrows  ;  1  even   fancied 
I  could  (race  (he  remains  o("  a  fo-s  and  raised  pa(h- 
way  to  soaie  of  them,  like  (he  entrance    (o  a    Roman 
camp;  but  whether   tliey   itre  (he  graves  of  foii^o((en 
SacUems,  or  (lie  work  of  the  floods   of  former   age?, 
I    pretend    no(    (o    de<  iiie.      i   found   a    c«)intor(abl« 
chamber  prepared  on  my    relmn,   and    breakfast   on 
ihe  table  in   the    morning.     *'  How  do   von    contrive 
to  get    through   your  (iioe    here,   my  girl  ?"  said  t, 
to  the  rosy-cheeked  damsel  who  kep(  up  kw^  s*  jjply 
of  fresh  eggs;  "  O,   Sir,  the  (ime   goes   very  quirii  •, 
we  have    plenty    of  empluyment."     *'  Well,   but   in 
winter?"   O  (he  winter  passes  still  quicker   than  the 
summer."     I   regre((e.l  I  jiad  no(   an  opportunity  cf! 
paying  my   respects   (o   my    kind   hos(ess,  m  whose 
family   (ime  was  allowed  (o   jog   quietly  on,  without 
any  extraordinary  condivances  for  his  des(ruc(ion,  a 
privilege  so  seldom  gian(ed  him  by  (he   present   ge- 
nera(ion.     There  is  something  of  (be  romance  of  real 
life   in  Mrs.  Nairn's  his(ory.     She  accompanied  her 
husband  frotn   ScotlamI,  during   (he    American   war, 
in  which  he  served,  and  was  rewarded   by  a  grant  of 
the  Seignory   of  Malbi'y,  a  (rac(   of  monn(ain  coun- 
try, li((le  prized  by  Canadian  or  English  settlers,  but 
dearer,  perhaps  to  him,  from  its  likeness   to  hif;    na- 
tive Highlands.      When  he  setlled  on  '(    there   weic 
but  two  houses,  besides  (he  one  he  built      \i&  lived 

9 


^.. 


','i'rit^    , 


66 


QUEBEC    TO    KAMOURASKA. 


lierc  till  ills  death,  and  his  widow  hiis  coiitiniietl'  lo 
reside  here  lor  forly-five  years,  during  which  ihc 
three  houses  have  grown  in<o  a  parish  of  three  hun- 
dred inhabitants.  Two  of  Mrs.  Nairn's  daughters 
are  married  and  settled  in  the  \illage.  Her  son  tell 
in  the  battle  of  Chrystler's  Farm. 

"*'  dbay  is  the  last  settlement  on  the  north  bank  of 
of  the  St.  Lawrence.  The  only  habitation  btyond 
it,  is  a  trading  house  of  the  Northwest  Company, 
who  drive  a  pretty  gainful  tratiick  with  the  Indians 
of  the  neighb«>nrhood,  taking  their  furs  nt  a  shilling 
earh,  and  selling  them  those  commodities  custom 
has  rendered  necessaiies,  at  their  own  price ;  no 
pains,  nor  even  violence  bring  spared,  lo  pre\ent 
any  competition  likely  lo  diminish  their  profits.  A 
striking  instance  of  Ihio  spirit  occurred  last  year  at 
Pistole.  Nearly  opposite  lo  thcli  trading  posl  is  a 
Canadian  (itlicry,  the  buslnes'*  of  which  is.cenerally 
carried  on  during  the  spring,  when  the  fish  fiequent 
the  south  side  of  the  river;  last  } ear,  however, 
owing  lo  a  scarcity  of  salt,  it  was  necessarily  put 
off  until  the  auMimn,  when  the  fish  are  fount!  on  the 
north  bank;  but  when  the  fishermen  attempted  to 
pursue  their  vocation  in  this  direction,  ihey  were  set 
upon  by  an  armed  parly  of  Ihe  subaltern  agents  of 
the  Northwest  Company,  iheir  oars  and  boat  tack- 
ling destroved,  and  Ihemselves  set  adrift,  at  the  mer« 
cy  of  the  elements.  Fortunately  Ihey  succeeded 
in  g.iining  the  shore  in  thi^  condition,  and  are  since 
understood  lo  have  commenced  a  process  against 
these  lawless  traders,  who,  themselves,  unchartered 
monopolists,  assumed  Ihe  possibility  of  these  fisher- 
iiten  communicating  with  ihe  Indians,  as  a  pretext 
for  this  unprovoked  outrage. 

The  road  from  IMidbay  lo  St.  Paul's  Bay,  follows 
the  direction  of  Ihe  river,  over  a  IrucI  of  mountain 
country,  occasionally  crossed  by  »leep  glens,  and 
covered  with  pine,  cedar,  elm,  maple,  birch,  ««nd 
wild  cherry  :  neither  oak,  nor  hickory,  are  found  so 


qUBBBC    TO    KAMOURASKA. 


er 


far  north.     Scattered   settlements    are   every   wliere 
met  Willi  along  the  roaii,  and  many  an  acre,  on  which 
the  halt   burnt   pine-lrnnks   arc   Hiill   stamling,  lallier 
indicates    the    pi  unless   of  cnlli\ation,   than    adds   to 
the  beaiily  of  tiie  lands^cape.      liaiher  more  than  half 
way   belwixl  Malbay  and    St.  Paul's  liay,  stands  the 
little  village  of  "  Les    Elioukuiens."      1   stopped  my 
caleche  a  I    the    house    of  the  ciii?,    whose    rosy    (h 
bitn  point,  and  good  humour,  oetckened  him  e<pially 
at   ease    in  spirituals   and    lempoiaU.'^     Me    regaled 
me  with  wine  an<l   strawberries,  serveil  by  his  sister, 
tiie  slaid   gonvernante   of  his   sniali    menage;  and   if 
wine  and  fi  uir,  afier  a  dusty   journey,  reiptired   any 
sauce,   I  ''iioiild  have  tbimd  it  in  the  pleasure  my  eii- 
teriainer«  see:iied    to  feel  in   my    appeiile.      He    la- 
Oieiilfd  he  iiad   nolhing  belter   to  otter    me,  but  if  I 
would    slay    a  few    da}s,    and    make   his    house    my 
home,  the  besi    he  could  procure  was   at  my  service. 
The    oiilv   return  he  reipiired,  or   i    could   make,  to 
this  ho'^pilality,  was   to  lell   tiim   the  news,  and  leave 
him  my  na.iie,  'o  add   to  Ihe  small   lisl   of  strangers, 
who  had    honoured   his  humble   domicile.      Perverse 
foi'hine,   that   planted   thy    social  spirit  on   the   bleak 
crest  of   "  lii's    t^iioulemens  !'*   not    one,   I    trust,   of 
thy  few  vi:^iianls,  has  f«iigollen  the  smile  of  thy  ruildy 
countenance,   thy   band   and   cassock,  somewhat    the 
woise  for   time   and  snuH',  thy   easy   chair,  and    bre- 
viary   tied    up    in  black   cloth  ;  or    'he    neat    flower 
garden  round  thy  porcli,  whence,  at    Ihe   interval  of 
thy  evening  devotiim,    1  can  fancy  Ihinfc  eye   resting 
coinplacMiily   on  the  lovely    prospect  it  commands — 
the   small  whit,   church,  gleaming  in  the  vale    below  ; 
beyond   it  a  succession  of  lofty  capes    and   wooded 
promoniories,  jutting  into  the   broad   St.    Lawrence  ; 

*  I  am  sorry  to  xay.  I  did  not  do  h\%  \ih\U}<io\)\ij  mifflcienl. 
hoimiir  l>y  IIh;  roiijcctiin- ;  I  Irurncd  al'lfrwanN  tliat  lie  was 
vi-ry  [Htor,  buiii|(  very  i^eun'uuv,  and  nu  tavoiirilv  willi  Itic 
hiibop. 


6a 


QUEBEC    TO    KAAIOUilASKA. 


:  t*'. 


rv  f 


and  "  fsle  aux  Coudres,"  lying,  -like  a  ehield,  on  ifs 
biijjht  waleis. 

St.  Paid's  Bay  is  a  ftoiiridhin?  little  village,  much 
reseiniiling  iMalliay,  in  site  and  teature.  The  parish 
is  reckoned  to  contain  almiil  '2000  inhabitants,  the 
greater  part  of  them  seMled  along  the  little  river, 
whose  mouth  forms  the  bay,  and  which  once  proba- 
bly covered  the  hoil  on  which  the  village  is  built. 
From  St.   Paul's  Bav  to  St.  Joachim,  there  is  a  road 

flanned,  but,  as  1  had  not  leisnie  to  wait  its  making, 
procured  a  boat  to  take  me  roiUMl  Cape  Toruienio. 
**  Isle  aux  CouUres"  lies  within  the  bay  ;  it  is  one  of 
the  earliest  settlements  in  Canada,  and  said  still  to. 
retain,  with  the  simple  manners,  a  considerable  share 
of  the  national  urbanity  of  its  first  colonis'.  IVly 
boat's  crew,  lhou<j:h  strong  in  number,  were  weak  in 
skill,  nearly  half  of  them  beiniz;  old  men,  for  the  hrst 
time  in  their  live^  handling  an  oar;  an  evil  which  be- 
gan to  be  fell,  as  soon  as  we  had  to  contend  with  the 
short  swell,  caused  by  the  opposition  of  wind  and 
ti«le  ;  ihe  contest,  however,  was  iuit  ol  short  duration, 
for  after  a  little  bungling  and  tossing,  and  some  awk- 
ward attempts,  on  the  part  of  our  yoiini!  hiiiids,  to 
huigh  away  their  fright,  we  found  ourselves  obliged 
to  make  for  the    village  of"  La  Petite   Riviere,"  to 


ige 
pre\ent  greater  evil*. 

After  securing  our  boat,  we  woimd  our  vay  through 
a  marshy  meadow,  towards  a  s(nall  wooden  house  at 
the  end  of  the  vilhue,  whose  appearance  be^-poke  it 
none  of  the  best  there,  but  it  had  the  merit,  as  my 
commodore  and  pilot  observed,  of  being  kept  by  a 
clean  woman,  and  of  lying   handy   to  the  boat.      We 


f 


iroceeded,  accordinirly,  down  the  plashey  |)ath  which 
ed  to  it,  and  by  the  help  of  steppinu;  stones,  maniru- 
vred  across  Ihe  duck-puddle  round  the  door-way. 
Th<>  interior,  howe>er,  did  not  discreilil  tlie**gnde 
wife's"  character.  The  white-washed  walU,  against 
which  hun<i;  the  skin  of  a  sea-wolf,  were  clean,  and 
a  suiall  display  of  brown  puns  and   many -coloured 


J '■^•H.^.««M„ 


(iDEBEC    TO    KA>IOVRA8KA. 


69 


crockery,  neatly  <irranged,  I'loiiled  (he  door.  The 
dauiu  and  lier  daughter  readily  led  llteir  cuiding,  to 
set  about  preparing  a  uieul :  ami  a  pleuiiiui  disli  of 
oinlet,  tried  with  bacon,  aud  seixed  up  wiUi  niiiple 
augai,  wad  !40on  piaceil  un  uiiai  in  hei,u.iii  and  dimeii- 
sious  might  have  passed  equally  tor  &(ool  or  table. 
Three  iioii  forks,  and  aii  many  |)lallera,  coinpleaied 
our  service;  llie  only  iiiiite  in  (tie  lainiiy  being  pro* 
duced  troiu  our  host's  breeciies  pocket,  wiM.re  M  usu- 
ally reposed,  alter  its  daily  dunes  ot  culling  Hiicks, 
bread  tor  (he  taiinly  consumption,  and  bacun.  Aa 
there  was  nolhing  in  this  banquet  to  induce  excess,  1 
ventured,  iimnetiiately  alter  it,  to  Cdiniuence  a  survey 
oi  the  hamlet.  It  ocrupies  a  sliip  ot  land  aUu>g  liie 
St.  Lawrence,  about  tour  miles  in  lenglii,  anu  seldom 
h^dl'amile  in  its  greatest  breath.  I'owarus  either 
en<l  ot  it,  tlio  bold  ri<lge-shoies  closes  in,  uiid  iMiiowa 
this  distanre  into  little  more  than  the  breadth  ot  a 
ro.id,  and  pebbly  beach.  This  screen  ot  rock«>,  ris- 
ing preci|iiiousiy  to  the  height  ut'  several  Imndrcd 
feel,  und  thus  eilectuajly  protecting  the  terriliuy  of 
this  secluded  colony  troui  the  cliilting  noitli-west 
winds,*  is  cloa'hed  to  the  suiiinitt  with  d«ep  u,ioves 
of  pines,  beeeli,  and  m  iple  ;  tlie  tatter  ot'  which  adoid 
annually  more  than  sulLcieni  siig.ir  tin  the  consump- 
tion ol'  the  inhiibitanls.  Tne  si  vie  ol  their  houses  is 
at  once  siitistantial  and  rouiMiodioiis :  uulls  treslily 
white-washeil,   and  deltly  •trimmed  gaideiib,  denote  a 

*  Kx|MMien<T  ninruins  tli»>  raliiiind  (M)iij('cliire,  that  it  \s.  to 
the  severity  u\'  Itiis  wiiid.  swre|iiiiy;  dver  Ilie  littalt  n'ii,iiiiis  of 
fliiil^oirs  liay,  iiiiil  |||<<  LaljiMiliM' lo.itl,  iliai  (lie  tx  nine  v>h\ 
of  liitwrr  Canada  ik  |ii'iii<'i|mll,\  atlrilMilaliie.  'I'l.t' imi  tli-Me>ti<r- 
ly  c'lHiiwe  of  the  si  reams  vvlneli  lid!  iiilu  (lie  Si.  Lawn  nee.  on 
its  lift  liaiilt,  l»y  (uteniii'f  a  |>assai£e  to  lliis  wind,  oliviales  tlie 
jfwu\  etl'itts  of  llie  dieller  atliiidrd  l>y  its  lolly  slioies.  'I'Jie 
village  of  l.a  I'etite  Itivien- serins  iildelilnl  tor  its  k«  iiial  ell* 
male  to  tlu'  taviiiiratde  (li<itin('iii.ii  of  Im  iiiu  wahnd  liv  a 
stroaiii  loo  narrow  and  windini^  lo  li  avr  aiiv  roiisidenildr 
Ineaeti  in  tlie  liiiinlilh,  l>y  wliieii  il  is  hliellered,  t'or  llie  wind  lo 
paik    IbruiiKh. 


TO 


Q,nEBEC    TO    KAMOURASKA. 


Mr;   } 


condition  beyond  flie  mere  grovellinj!;  of  exisfencc. 
They  are  grouped,  or  irregularly  scaHered  along  (he 
road,  each  einbosoitied  in  its  own  (ufted  orchard,  at 
once  the  weaj/h  and  glory  of  its  owner.  This  luxnri- 
ant  abundance  of  fruit  trees  ia  not  only  the  most 
graceful  feature  of  the  scene,  but  a  very  striking  pe- 
culiarity in  the  site  and  soil  of  this  favoured  spot, 
which  produces  app!es  as  abundantly,  and  of  equal 
quality  with  those  of  Montreal  ;  plums,  cherrifs,  and 
currants  no  less  plentifully  :  even  the  peach  dei^ins  to 
ripen  here,  though  found  no  where  besides  in  Cana- 
da, to  the  west  of  the  Niagara  frontier.  Fruit  is 
therefore  the  staple  commodity  of  the  villiige,  and 
obtains  for  the  inhabitants,  not  only  the  corn  they 
have  not  space  to  raise  in  siitHcieni  quantity  for  their 
consumption,  but  the  few  articles  they  are  accustom- 
ed to  consider  the  luxinies  of  life. 

At  the  lower  en«l  of  the  vill»<ie,  a  nislirk  bridge 
of  pme  logs,  crosses  "  La  Petite  Riviere."  1  sat 
down  on  a  fallen  tree  to  ailmire  this  swift  gurgling 
Itreaudot,    as  it  came  from  its  green  alcove, 

*'  Making  swuet  inusink  willi  tli'  cMiamnlnd  stones," 

and  co"strasting  its  white  broken  current  wifli  the 
deep,  and  varied  verduie  of  tin  bir«:h,  pine,  and  ma- 
ple, over-arching  its  rocky  banks,  as  if  to  veil  the 
secret  urn,  and  rep)»se  of  its  Niiad.  On  my  way 
back,  I  accepted  one  of  the  miiny  courteous  oflfers  of 
the  "  Fathers  of  the  Hamlet,"  to  enter  his  house  and 
refresh  myself.  After  taking  a  glass  of  milk,  the 
good  man  otfered  me,  as  the  greatest  treat  within  his 
m>aris,  rum  and  tobacco;  and  on  mv  declining  both, 
"  What,"  said  he,"  you  neither  drink  run  nor  smoke 
tobacco  ?  How  rich  you  must  be  !"  I  could  not 
assent  to  his  conclusion,  though  it  would,  in  general, 
be  just  cno'igh  if  in  the  place  of  rum  and  tobacco, 
one  should  substitue  the  erpiivalent  luxuries  of  more 
polish  ed  life.     He  informed  me,  the  hamlet  contain- 


aUKBEC    TO    KAMOtRABKA. 


71 


ed  thirty  fires,  and  one  hundred  and  thirty  grown  iip 
persons  ;  or  as  he  expressed  if,  "  Cointnuniranls  ;'* 
persons  receiving  the  sacrameni  :  a  criterion  of  popu- 
lation very  common  in  Lower  Canada,  and  very  ill 
suited  to  most  other  countries.  All  his  observations 
bespoke  a  mind  cheerful  and  contented.  He  praised 
the  excellence  of  the  soil,  and  observed,  it  was  one  of 
the  earliest  settlements  in  Canada.  "  Their  young 
men,"  he  said,  *' had  gone  out  duiinc  the  war,  but 
most  of  them  had  returned  safe,  for  Sir  George  had 
always  spared  the  Cana<lians."  He  ofllered  me  his 
bouRrt,  if  I  was  unprovided  with  a  lodging,  adding, 
that  every  house  in  the  village  would  be  equally  at 
iny  service,  either  for  myself,  or  the  persons  who 
came  with  me.  I  repaid  his  kind  ofl'ers,  by  giving 
him  the  best  advice  I  could,  on  the  disordered  slate 
of  a  watch  he  ha«l  purchased  of  a  knavish  tradesman 
in  Quebec  ;  ami  we  parted,  I  think  with  somewhat 
more  of  corilial  leave-faking,  than  usually  graces  the 
separation  of  such  brief  acquaintance 

On  retiirnins  from  my  walk,  I  found  my  host's 
family  collected  round  a  blazing  hearth,  though  in 
the  month  of  Jidy.  They  could  not  sufliciently 
wonder  amonc  themselves,  that  1  should  have  walk- 
ed to  the  cud  of  their  village  from  mere  curiosity  ;  a 
restless  feeling,  with  which  the  Canadian  gentleman 
or  peasant  is  little  troubled.  An  iron  lamp  having 
been  trimmed,  and  htmg  against  the  wall,  a  copious 
mess  of  milk  porridge  was  serve<l  up  for  supper ;  soon 
after  which,  the  old  people  retired  to  an  inner  room, 
to  perform  their  evening  devotions,  while  the  younger 
merid)ers  of  (he  fiitnily  knelt  rouml  the  apartment,  and 
liaiit'C  pr;»yed  some  time  in  silence,  rehired  to  rest. 
If  prayers  can  enter  heaven,  it  mui*t  surely  be,  when 
they  ilhus  rise,  a  voluntary  oll'ering  from  the  <luclling 
of  contented  p«)verty.  I  was  roused,  at  midnight,  lo 
moufit  a  bare-backed  nag,  which  a  barefooted  go>soon 
led  by  the  halter,  throunh  laiirs  au('  niendows,  (ill 
emerging  among  (he  rocks,  a  distant  light  directed  us 


/; 


QUEBEC    TO    KAMODRASKA. 


to  our  boat,  which  lay,  as  the  tide  was  low,  some  way 
in  the   stream,  and  we   presently   proceeded  on    our 
voyage.     The  cold  star-heain  enabled  us    to   discern 
the  diirk   outline   of   Cape  Turrnenlo,    rising    almost 
pcrptMidicidarly  from  the  water':*  edge,     lis  heii^ht  is 
estinialed  by  the  Canadians  at  liiOO  feet  ;  but  I  should 
think   800  a  sufiicK'.nt  cillowance.     1  landed  xoon  alter 
dav  ti.iwn,  near  S<.   Joachim.      Here  is  a  house  with 
lands,  beloniiing  to  the  (^nebec  seminary,  fiumed  out 
uni(er  (he  in>)|ieclion  ot  a  steward,      i  fancied  the  cut- 
.  tivalion  of  them  superiour  in  method,  and  (heir  crops 
more   abundant  llun  any  1  had  seen.     The  soil  is  al- 
toa;ctlier  alluvial,  lying  on  a  level  willi  the  river, betwixt 
it  and  its  rocky  banks,  us  if  redeemed  from  the  water. 
iM y  '^.tiiile,  charioteer,  or  carter,  (lor  be   it   knowU) 
St     Juachiin   could   furnish   no  costlier  veliicle  than 
a  carl,)  Irixing  introduced  himself  to  my  notice,   with 
a  compliment  lit  the  frankne<^s  and  honour  of  his  own 
dr.dinsis,   (of   which,    by-lhe-bye,    1    had    some    little 
d<)ubf,)  proceeded  to  inloiui  me  of  a   far    uu>re  obvi- 
ou-*  per'nliiMity  in  his  character;  '■^  qu^il  ainioil  bean- 
cotij)  d  jitser  en  clienihi."     He  followetl  up  this  enun- 
ciation, or  rather  dcnuncialion,   with   a   succession  of 
interro:iatories,  monolotfues,  and  eulogies  on  his  steed 
"  Papillon,"  (who    liad   certainly   nothing    volatile    in 
his   whole  anatomy,)  and   good  humouredly   apologia* 
ed,  from  time   to    time,  for  his  excessive  lotpiacity, 
which  he  ascribed  to  an  extreme    thirst    for  inlorma* 
tiou  ;   witluuil  adding,  whether  for  giving  or  receiv- 
ing  it.     He   expre:«sed    much   surprise  at   (he   pains 
taken,  an<l  bows  bestowed  by   the  parliamentary  can- 
didates of   the  province;  said,   he  imagined  it   must 
b«  ^^  pour  rinniiienr,^^  and  desired  to  know  If  it  was 
the   same    in   Kugland  ;   I   replied  in  the  affirmative, 
with  regard   to  the   pains-taking  and  bowini;,  (hough 
I  could  not  add  it  was  altogether  **  pour  rhonnevr." 
No  less  was  his  surprise  at  what  he  deemed  my  ab- 
stemoioiHness,    when    he  found  I    (ook   no   meal   be- 
twixt breakfast  and  a  four  o'clock  dinner ;  detailing. 


fc^ 


(QUEBEC    TO-KAMODRASKA. 


70 


at  the  same  time,  the  four  diurnal  meah  with  which 
he  appeased  liis  own  appeliie.  "  1  sihuuld  like  much 
to  travel  wi(h  you,  said  he,  but  instead  of  receiving 
washes,  I  flhould  request  to  eat  as  I  liked." 

Fru/n  St.  Joachim  the  road  runs  at  the  fool  of  the 
cliffs,  for  the  «freater  part  of  the  way  to  IVlontuio- 
renri ;  iiutriberless  little  streams  come  hissing  down 
the  furrowed  rocks,  and  having  fed  the  thriving  or- 
chards, which  cluster  at  their  base,  are  received  in 
stone  tanks,  round  which,  the  bare-armed,  naked- 
fooled,  (I  am  sorry  I  cannot  say  silver-footed,)  «lam- 
sels  of  the  village  repair,  unconsciously,  to  imitate 
the  daughters  of  king  Alcituius.  At  Quebec  1  part- 
ed with  {ny  garrulous  frieno,  who  ver)  courteously 
pressed  me  to  make  his  house  my  quaiier,  should 
chance  again  lead  me  to  St.  Joachim,  adding,  by  way 
of  reply  to  my  hint  of  the  improbability  of  such  an 
occurrence,  that  "  though  aiountuins  could  nut  tueet^ 
men  might.*' 


»> 


10 


[74] 


CHAPTER  XIII. 


THE  FALLS  OF  THE  CHALDIERE. 


'  I 


I    .  t  '   '! 


'  f 


The  Falls  of  the  Chaudicre  are  about  four  miles 
from  the  junction  of  the  Chuiuiiere  with  (he  St.  Law- 
rence, which  takes  place  on  its  soulh  shore,  five  miles 
above  Quebec.  There  are  few  who  will  not  ac- 
count an  excursion  hither,  anion;;  the  interesting  days 
of  their  life.  The  wooded  cliflfs  of  the  St.  Law- 
rence, with  Sillori,  and  New  Liverpool,  looking  out, 
on  opposite  siiles,  froa)  their  romantic  seclusion  ;  the 
broad  expanse  of  the  river  itself,  widening  out  from 
Cap  Rouge,  as  the  baslioned  heights  of  Quebec 
seem  to  close  its  northern  outlet  ;  the  frequent  sail) 
or  heavy  timber-rafi,  "floating  many  a  rood,"  pre- 
pare the  mind,  by  a  succession  of  pleasing  objects, 
for  the  enjoyment  of  the  scene  which  awaits  it.  Af- 
ter walking  from  the  little  cove,  in  •vliich  you  land, 
to  the  village  of  St.  Nicholas,  (about  half  a  mile,) 
you  are  furnished  with  a  conveyance,  carl  orcaleche, 
to  within  a  mile  of  the  Falls.  The  road  turns  from 
the  village  lhroN!!;h  the  fields,  and  after  descending 
into  a  little  pebbly  streandet,  passes  through  a  deep 
wood,  principally  of  pine  and  maple,  in  the  middle 
of  which,  it  ceases  to  be  practicable  for  carriages  ; 
you  continue  by  a  foolpalli,  and  suddenly  emerge 
upon  a  ledge  of  rocks,  whose  disjointed  masses,  and 
strata,  uplieavrd  from  their  primieval  bed,  seem, 
while  the  rush  uf  waters  thumiers  around,  to  denote 
the  iniinediate  presence  of  some  destroying  minister 
of  nature.  Continuing  over  these  rocks,  you  arrive 
at  a  crag,  projecting  midway   acrosn   the  river,  and 


THE    FALLS    OK    THE    CIIAUDIERE. 


7h 


crested  with  a  sinj^Ie  cetlar.  The  Falls  are  now 
directly  befoie  you;  Ihe  river,  "240  yards  in  breadth, 
precipitates  itself  above  100  perpeinliciilar  feet;  the 
bed  of  the  fall  is  a  red  clay-slate,  residarly,  and  even 
f^incifully  penciled  wiih  ti)in  layers  of  soft  grey  stone  ; 
this  gavely  of  colonring,  while  it  ploasini;ly  relieves 
the  solemn  grandeur  of  Ihe  scene,  lends  a  russet  tinge 
to  the  tiescendin;;  flood,  \vhi)se  broken  masses  foam 
in  their  descent,  "like  the  mane  of  a  chesnut 
steed." 

Part  of  it  falls  over  a  Icdije  of  rocks,  at  an  oblique 
ans^le  to  the  main  charuiel,  lorming  a  lesser  cascade, 
which,  but  (or  its  mai^iitificent  neighbour,  would  itself 
be  an  interesting;;  object.  Nearly  on  the  line  of  the 
fails,  a  wall  of  granite,  about  six  feet  in  height,  and 
three  in  thickness,  springs  through  the  strata,  forming 
the  bed  of  the  river,  and  traverses  them  in  a  straight 
line,  until  broken  through  by  the  lesser  fall,  beyond 
which  a  fragment  of  it  appears  again,  seeming  to  in- 
dicate, that  it  had  once  extended  across  the  torrent, 
and  resisted  its  passage. 

There  is  no  other  appearance  of  granite  immedi- 
ately round  the  falls,  though  immense  masses  of  it 
cumber  the  stream  about  half  a  mile  below  them,  and 
fortn  considerable  rapids  ;  viewed  from  this  spot,  the 
falls  lie  in  beautiful  perspective,  beyond  the  cliffs, 
which  project  from  either  shore,  in  their  front.* 

The  surrounding  scenery  is  grand  and  quiet.  The 
stately  woodii'  have  never  bowed  before  the  ravage 
of  improvement,  nor  has  the  stream  been  tortined, 
and  diverted  from  its  channel,  for  tiie  supply  of  grist 
and  saw  mills.  The  freshness  of  nature  is  in  every 
sight  and  sound,  and  cold  must  be  the  heart  that  feels 
not  a  momentary  glow,  while  thus  standing  in  the 
presence  of  her  wildest  loveliness. 

*  Tlie  corresponding;  posilioii  of  thrsp  clitrs  on  Iwtli  sides  of 
llie  Ktrrain,  atfurdK  siroii<>;  n^asoii  ti>  think  tlii>y  once  .''orminl 
part  of  llin  ledge  of  tlid  Kail,  wliiuli  has  nioco  worn  its  wa* 
backward  to  its  present  situation.  9 


:U 


[76] 


CHAPTER  XIV. 


ti 


i 


i 


I/-  i\ 


■  1  ■ 


i,!f, 


QUEBEC  TO  MONTREAL. 


July  28th,  Bridge  or  Jacques  Cartier, 
•23tli.  Three  Rivers. 
:iOth,  Falb  of  Shawinnegacnnie, 
August  I"!.  Berthier, 

•id,  St  Ours,  1 

St    \nloine,    ?- 
St.  Dt^nys,       j 
BeJopil, 
4th,  liO(i|!UPil, 
Montreal, 


Miles. 

33 

63  Caleche. 

21  Canoe. 

40  Calecbe. 

1  Ferry. 

24 

16  1  2 

24  Caleche, 

4  Ferry, 

22G  1-2 


7rateller8  frequently  make  a  small  detour  to 
pass  by  (he  Jacques  Cartier  bridge,  six  or  seven 
miles  above  the  ferry.  The  river  comes  widely 
down  betwixt  its  wooded  shores,  and,  after  forming 
several  cascades,  foams  through  a  narrow  channel, 
which  seerns  chisselled  out  of  the  solid  rock  to  receive 
it,  and,  having  passed  the  bridge,  buries  itself  from 
the  eye  of  the  spectator,  in  the  deep  valley  below. 
The  rock,  which  constitutes  its  bed,  is  formeu  into  re- 
gular platforms,  descending  by  natural  steps  to  the 
edge  of  the  torrent.  The  Jacques  Cartier  is  famous  for 
its  salmon,  which  are  taken  of  a  great  size,  and  in  great 
abimdance  below  the  bridge,  at  the  foot  of  which 
stands  a  little  inn,  where  the  angler  may  have  his 
game  cooked  for  supper,  and  sleep  in  the  lull  of  the 
torrent  below  his  chamber  window.  Its  white-washed 
parlour  is  adorned  with  stuffed  birds,  fishing  tackle, 
records  of  large  fish  caught,  and  such  like  sporting 
trophies.     I  supoed   ingloriously,   but  heartily,  on 


HCEBEC    TO    MONTREAL. 


7r 


salmon  I  had  not  captured.  After  quitting  ^Ihis 
neighbourhood,  (he  scenery  of  the  St.  Lawrence 
becomes  flat  and  uniform.  The  high  lands,  which 
skirt  the  horizon  of  Quebec,  fail  oil"  towards  the 
north-west,  leaving  an  expanse  of  level  country  as 
far  as  the  hill,  which  the  primitive  settlers,  in  admi- 
ration of  its  solitary,  and  king-like  emiiunce,  ile- 
nominated  the  Royal  Mountain.  The  road  follows 
the  liireclion  of  the  river,  sometimes  running  along 
th*t  beetling  clitV,  which  once  cn)bankeil  it,  and  «sonie- 
times  descending  to  the  water's  edge,  a'ong  the  nar- 
row alluvion  lime  has  redeemed  from  its  be<i. 

From  Quebec  to  Montreal  may  be  called  one  long 
village.  On  either  shore  a  stripe  of  land,  seldom  ex- 
ceeding a  mile  in  breadth,  (except  near  the  streams 
whit  h  fail  into  (he  St.  iiuwretu  e,)  bounded  by  ab- 
original t'orests,  and  thickly  studded  wiih  low-brow- 
ed farm  houses,  while-washed  from  (op  to  bottom, 
to  which  a  log-barn  and  stable  are  attached,  and  coin- 
Dioidy  a  neat  plot  of  garden  ground,  represents  all 
that  is  inhabited  of  Lower  Canada.  A  cluster  of 
these  hotises  becomes  a  village,  generally  honoured 
viUh  (he  name  of  some  saint,  whose  church  glitters 
afar  with  (in  spires  and  belfry.  Upon  (he  shoulders 
of  (his  patron  saint,  (he  Canadian  rests  (he  chief 
part  of  his  cares,  both  temporal  and  eternal — having 
commit(ed  his  seed  to  the  same  ground,  aiul  in  the 
same  manner  with  his  forefathers,  he  trusts  tha(  (he 
"  bon  Dieu^^  will,  (hrough  the  intercession  of  (he 
said  saint,  do  the  rest.  Should  an  inclement  season, 
as  was  (he  case  last  year,  disappoint  his  hopes,  he 
is  prepared  |)a(ifcutly  (o  confess  himself,  anil  die  of 
hunger,  fully  persuaded  (hat  the  blessed  St.  Anne, 
or  St.  Anthony,  will  not  fail  him  in  both  woilds. 

The  spirit,  which  endures  an  evil  rather  than 
overcome  i(,  h  no(  very  favourable  to  the  comlort 
of  a  traveller  :  i(  indicates  bad  roads,  bad  inns,  bad 
horses,  and  bad  carriages  ;  all  which  he  finds  ac- 
cordingly ;  yet  in    spite  of  all  tlioic,   1    prefer   (he 


78 


THREE    RIVERS,    &C. 


i\  '! 


.'•   t» 


travelling  of  Ijower  Canada,  to  thai  of  every  otbei- 
part  of  Ibe  American  Continent.  You  arrive  at  the 
post  house,  (as  the  words  "  niaison  de  poste" 
scrawled  over  the  door  give  yon  notice,  thongh  the 
premises  present  no  further  hint  of  the  appointment, 
than  perhaps  a  tattered  culeche  under  the  adjoining 
shed.)  "Hive  you  horses,  3Iadame  ?"  ^^oui^  Mon- 
sieur, tout  de  s»t7p," — A.  hind  cry  of  "O/i/  6011 
hoinme,"  succeeds,  to  forward  the  intelligence  to  her 
husband,  at  work  in  the  adjacent  tield — "  Mais,  as- 
seyez  vom,  Monnieui' ;" — and  if  you  have  patience 
to  dt)  this  quietly  for  a  few  minutes,  you  will  see 
Crebillon,  Papillon,  or  some  other  on  ar^'ve  from 
pasture,  mounted  by  honest  Jean  in  his  blue  night 
cap,  with  all  his  habilitnents  shaking  in  the  wind,  at 
a  full  canter.  The  invariable  preliminary  of  splicing 
and  compounding  the  broken  harness  having  been 
adjusted,  the  whip  cracks,  and  you  start  to  the  ex- 
hiJarating  cry  of  "  marclie  donc,^^  at  the  rate  of  six, 
and  often,  seven  miles  an  hour,  with  no  stoppages. 
Should  a  farther  degree  of  speed  be  required,  the 
pls^ce  of  the  English  "  extra  shilling"  is  cheaply 
supplied  by  a  few  flowers  of  rhetorick,  bestowed  in 
the  shape  of  an  eulogium  on  Jean's  punchy,  fumbr 
ling  nag.  "  Ok  Monsieur,  il  est  l)ien  capable,*'  is 
his  complacent  reply,  (fov  be  it  known,  that  no 
knight  of  chivalry  ere  prized  his  gallant  Bayarilo, 
more  than  the  Canadian  his  dumplin  courser,)  and 
straightway,  an  additional  mile  in  his  hour's  driving 
makes  good  his  boast,  and  places,  beyond  the  slur  of 
sceptical  doubt  or  criticism,  Crcbillon's  fame. 


THREE  RIVERS,  AND  FALLS  OF  SHAWINNEGAMME. 


The  village  of  "  Trois  Rivieres"  stands  at  the 
mouths  of  the  St.  Maurice,  which,  being  three  in 
number,  were  mistaken    by  Jaques  Cartier,  or   hit 


THREB    RIVERS,    &C. 


re 


■f  f 


i 


successors,  for  three  distinct  rivers,  and  thence  the 
village  had  its  name.  It  cuntains  an  Ui^tiiiine  con- 
vent,  which  marks  it  for  a  place  of  some  note  in  a 
catholick  country  ;  but  it  is  still  more  worthy  of  dis- 
tinction for  being  the  residence  of  the  Ahh6  de 
Calonne,  brother  to  the  French  minister  of  that 
name,  so  unfortunately  memorable.  This  excellent 
old  man,  on  the  return  of  Louis  XVII I.  to  France, 
came  into  possession  •)f  property  (chiefly  forest- 
lands,  which  had  reiriained  in  the  hands  of  the  go- 
vernment) to  the  value  of  13000/  per  annum,  the 
whole  of  which  he  immediately  divided  betwixt  his 
nephews  ;  rightly  judging  that  the  real  affection  of 
relatives  consists,  not  in  a  testamentary  gilt  of 
wealth  they  are  no  longer  able  to  enjoy,  but  in  the 
speediest  application  of  whatever  menns  they  pos- 
sess, for  promoting  the  happiness  of  their  connex- 
ions. For  himself,  he  considers  it  wealth  enough 
that  he  is  able  to  employ  the  e\ening  of  life  in  acts 
of  piety  and  benexolence  towards  bis  little  cure, 
whose  tears  will  honour  his  bier,  and  their  giateful 
remembrance  be  all  his  glory  upon  earth.  He  was 
at  this  time  actively  engaged  in  uliexiating  the  dis- 
tress residting  from  the  last  year's  ilefective  har- 
vest. The  inhabitants  of  many  villages  had,  for 
sometime,  been  reduced  to  li\e  on  such  vegetables 
as  they  could  pick  from  the  woods  and  fields,  and 
many  had  died  of  famine.  Considerable  relief  was 
afforded  by  the  sale  of  commissariat  stores,  which 
bad  been  collected  largely  in  case  of  a  continuance 
of  war.  This  measure  had,  perha[)s,  some  colla- 
teral effect  in  producing  the  scarcity,  but  the  pro- 
diiclioi)  of  such  extreme  distress  fiom  a  single  bad 
harvest,  may  be  considered,  generally,  as  symp- 
tomatick  of  a  bad  system  of  agriculture. 

Having  procured  two  experienced  boatmen,  with 
a  bark  canoe,  I  ascended  the  St.  Maurice,  to  \i8it 
the  Falls  of  Shawinnegamme.  The  river  banks,  at 
first  low,  rise,  on  ascending  the  stream,  to  the  height 


'« 


^^«*' 


8» 


THRRB    RIVERA,    &C. 


I  n  I! 


I 

A 


aomefiines  of  300  feef.  There  U  an  iron  forge  on 
the  ri(;ht  bank,  altoiit  neven  miles  fruin  TroiH  Ri- 
vieres;  after  which,  ihe  silence  of  Ihe  scene  is 
broken  bnl  by  (he  sound  of  the  Rapids,  or  (he  call 
of 'he  wild  duck,  as  nhe  skims  (hrongh  (he  sed|b;es 
betore  the  app'oach  of  (he  canoe.  Cunsiderubte 
skill  and  exertion  are  requisite  to  force  these  frail 
vehicles  over  (he  ledges  of  rock  which  form  (he  ra- 
pids:  should  fhe  boa(-pole  break,  or  be  nnskilftdly 
plunled,  your  paper  craft  is  hurried  o(ra(  the  mercy 
of  (he  (orrent,  and  dashed  (o  :itoins  :  ye(  of  (his 
Ihf^re  is  no  dan;;er;  or,  a(  least,  no  more  (han  suffices 
to  <;ive  the  -tpirits  an  acreeable  imptilse.  After  as- 
cending about  fifleen  miles,  we  disembarked  at  (wo 
poitaf^es,  wiMiin  a  short  dis(ance  of  each  o(her,  form- 
ed i)y  immense  masses  of  2;rauite,  wildly  scattered 
across  the  river  beii,  round  which  (he  stream  roars 
and  dashes,  as  if  indi:i;nanf  at  tJM  ir  resistance,  and 
precipitates  itself,  sonetimes  to  the  deptfi  of  (hir(y 
or  for(y  fee(,  cresting  its  tawny*  Hra(ers  with  foam 
and  v;»p)ur.  O  le  of  the  boatmen  took  the  canoe, 
fourteen  feet  in  l»*ni;th,  on  his  heaij,  (he  o(her  carry- 
ini{  i(s  contents,  and  walked  lit^adily  with  it,  and  his 
fowlin;;piece  in  his  hand,  across  rocks  I  found  it 
quite  enough  (o  carry  myself  over.  After  paddling 
a  few  miles  further,  the  river  expanded  into  an  ample 
basin,  cios)>d  roumi  with  pine-clad  mountains,  re- 
fleeted  from  its  limpitl  b;>'*om.  Ye(  in  (his  seeming 
■ecurify  dwells  (he  i^reatesf  danger:  (he  stream  des- 
cending rapidly  into  it,  frofn  (he  immediate  vicinity 
of  the  falls,  is  unable  (o  find  an  exit  with  equal  cele- 
rity at  (he  opponite  point,  where  (he  channel  nar- 
rows;  part  of  it,  therefore,  makes  a  turn  willjin  the 
basin,  am)  produces  a  vortex  about  its  centre,  in 
which  some  of  the  early  vova^eurs  perished.  The 
diflllcuity  is  eas.ly  avoided,  when  known,  by  creeping 

*  The  Sr    Vfjiui-ioo.  rroin  the   dark  coluur  of  its  waton,  il 
rorainoDly  called  the  Black  Uivur. 


TIIREB    RIVERS,    &C. 


ai 


close  round  the  edge  of  the  shore.  About  half  a 
miie  above  the  ba»in,  the  river  again  widens.  The 
tumbling  of  waters  is  now  heard  diijtinctly  ;  nothing 
however  is  visible  but  a  smooth  sheet  of  wafer,  at 
the  bottom  of  which,  a  lofty  barrier  of  wooded  rocks 
forbids  all  further  progress.  CliH*s,  equally  lofty, 
rise  on  either  side.  It  is  not  (ill  you  have  nearly 
reached  the  shore  in  frcnt,  that  you  perceive  the 
Falls,  rushing  down  on  your  right  hand  info  a  gloomy 
nook,  which  seeirts  hollowed  out  for  their  reception. 
I  should  conjecture  their  descent  to  be  about  100 
feet  i*  but  the  fall  is  not  perpendicular,  and  is  di- 
vided by  an  islet,  or  mass  of  rocks,  on  which  a  few 
pine  and  cedar  trees  liave  taken  root.  The  current 
betwixt  this  island  and  the  right  bank  does  not  ex- 
ceed the  width  of  twelve  yards.  The  extreme 
breadth  of  both  falls  together,  may  be  sixty  ;  this, 
however,  is  not  easily  estimated,  because  no  front 
view  can  be  obtained,  but  from  the  perpendicular 
cliffs  which  form  the  elbow  round  then),  and  which 
I  had  no  means  of  ascending.  Much  clauibering  ii 
requisite  to  reach  the  head  of  the  descent,  for  the 
regular  carrying  path  cuts  off  the  whole  angle,  and 
though  my  boatmen  had  repeatedly  ascended  the 
river  to  the  highlands,  (above  TOO  leagues,)  they 
bad  never  before  approached  the  Falls.  The  rocks 
round  the  foot  of  them  are  covered  with  trunks  and 
limbs  of  trees,  worn  round  and  smooth,  as  if  turned 
in  a  lathe,  by  the  action  of  the  torrent.  After 
spreatling  my  repast  on  a  granite  table,  and  sharing 
my  ruslick  meal  with  my  ronductors,  we  (taddled 
rapidly  down  tlie  current,  and  by  the  aid  of  «  bright 
moon,  reached  Three  Uivers  at  ten  o'clock,  making 
forty-four  miles  in  thirteen  lours. 

*  The  diftrrrnt  t'alli  nml  rapids  Itotwijct  \hv  inoiitii  of  tli« 
rivrr,  uiiti  (lir  );rcat  fall,  caiiiiot  hv  it«  kuiinl  h!  \vss  tlinii  IIK> 
frrt  nwvv  :  for  tl»P  whoir  (irsn-nt  <if  tin-  river  iu  tliis  »|iac«, 
1M  ivoulil  itrubably  be  no  cxlrciiii)  cnlculatiou. 

II 


i 


U2 


THREE    KIVERB,    &C. 


i\ 


!     :,i 


^M 


mv 


After   quitlinj;   the    Si.    Maurice,    the    (ribiilary 
streams    of  (be    Si.   Lawrence  descend    slowly  and 
inuddily  through  a  coiisiderable   extent  of  flat    coun- 
try, which  skirts  Luke  Si.  Peler,  and  spreads  al  the 
back    of   the    Montreal    Island,    as   Car   as    the  Two 
Mounlains.       The    only    marked    elevation    through 
these    exiensive    flals,    is    liie    anciont    bank   of  the 
river,  from  thirty   to   (ifly  feel   hii;h,  running   in   the 
direclion  of,  bui  at   various   dislances   IVoin,  ils  pre- 
sent   cliannel.      Keluixl    the    M:l^()uenon;J;e  and  Ber- 
thier,  its  distance  is  about  a   mile.      M.   Volney   ob- 
serves, that    this   second  ramp   is  more   particularly 
distin<;uiHtiid>l«i    alon^   the    rivers    of   llie   west.*     It 
is,   however,    not    Ies8   retnarkable   on    the   Si.  Law- 
rence, and  ils  tributary  sli'eains,  as  far  as  Lake  On- 
tario.     It   is  not  only   to  be   traced  along  the  course 
of  the    river    generally,   but    follows   each   bay  and 
winding  with  a  corresponding    (lexure,  thus  indicat- 
ing, that  the  subscipient  change  in  the  volume  of  wa- 
ter iias  taken  place  gradually,  and    without  violence. 
I  could   never  discover  a   single   creek   without    this 
accompaniment,  though  the   traveller   repeatedly  en- 
counters these  banks,  separaletl  by  a  flat    channel  of 
eighty  or  a  hundred  yards  in   width,  overgrown  with 
trees,  through  which  the  track  of  a  scanty   streamlet 
is  scarcely  marked  by  a  line  of  verdure,  fresher  than 
the  a<ljacent  boltou). 

The  number  of  abandoned  mill-seats,  particularly 
in  parts  of  the  country  recently  settled,  as  well 
ns  the  difficulty  of  working  many  of  those  still  in 
use,  shew  the  same  process  of  draining  to  be  still 
cuntiii'iing. 

Tin'  little  change  which  has  taken  place  In  the 
line  and  figure  of  ||iph(>  slopes  warrants  the  belief, 
that  few  centuries  havt*  passed  since  the  greater  part 
of  the  cultivated  iand  of  this  continent  was  sub- 
merged in  moruMs,  and    pouring  ri\ers,  which   have 

*  Tableau  du  tliuial,  iic.  i.  p.  19. 


THRBH:    RIVeHH,    &.C. 


8.'} 


aiiice  entirely  disappeareil,  or  lieen   greafly   reiliiced 
in  their  limits.      Where  the  coiiiilry    is   ilat,  this  se- 
cond bank  meat    be  8uni:!;ht  at  a  considerable  distance 
from  the  pii^senl  i.hannt;! ;  so   that   a    £;(Micral  rise   of 
fifty  or  sixty  feet  would  probably   oveillow   cnnrh  of 
the    ndiabiled    country    betwixt    the   Jaques   Carlier 
and  Si.    IManiici;,  the   whole  neiulibonrhood  of  Lake 
St.  Fclcr  and   the  Richelicn  river,  to  the   fool  of  the 
BrUril    IMoiiiitain,  with   the  soiithwcBt  shores   of  the 
Montreal  Ulan!,   a!i*l  the   greater  part   of  the  npper 
nio\ince,    be.wixt    the    Ottawa   and    the    neighbour- 
hood of  Pie*«'olt. 

Havitiij;  ferri«ul    iVom    Hcrlhier    to  Conlrccuenr,    1 
proccedfd,   "fit  citlerlie.'*    with    two  Ciebillons,    to- 
wards St.  Oiiis,  in  the  direction  of  the  Beloeit  Monn- 
tain,  towerinu.  in  the    nnsly   horizon.      The    meadows 
were  profusely  decorated    with  the  rich  orange   lily, 
anil  the   banks  and  dingles  with  the  crimson  cones  of 
the  Mimack,  and  a  variety'*  of  (lowerin);  shrubs.     Se- 
veral brills  and   merchant-^ships  were   tliopping  down 
wiih  the  tide,   their   crowded  sailtf  scarcely    swelling 
in  the  lan<^nid  summer  brec/e,  which  just   sufliced  tu 
temper  the  ^,lowing  atmofiphere  of  August. 

The   Canadian  summer  (Ihcugh   the  present   year 
formed  in  some  degree  an   exception)    is  hot  in  pro- 
portion to  the  severity  of   the   winter,   which  enables 
the    cultivator    to    raise   Indian  corn,  water    melons, 
gourdH.    capsicunif,   and  such    vegetablis  as  reipiire 
u    sIh  ri    and    intense    heat;    a    circumstance    which 
lends  the  country  the  aspect  of  a    Portuguese    sum- 
mer, by   way  of  appendix  to  a  UiiHsian    winter.     M. 
Volney  observes,   (torn.  i.  p.    KM,)  that    this    is  the 
case  along  the    whole  extent   of  She  Atlanlick  coast, 
as  far  as  the  Koutlieiii  slates  ;  each    portion   of  which 
is  both   hotter  in   MuuMiier,  and  colder  in  winter,   than 
its    parallels    in    Kiirope,    by    many    decrees.       The 
greatest  heat   ex|)erienci.d    thin  summer    (esteemed  a 
very   cold  one)  at  (Quebec  was  1)2**  of   Fahren.      In 
the  shade,  HO"  and   tt'i"*   were  averu^^e  temperatures 
during  July  and  August. 


iM 


r 


.« 


[«4  ] 


't 


■■  1 


.r  I 


(• 


CHAPTER  XV. 


THE  BEIXEIL  MOUNTAIN. 


On  my  arrival  at  the  iinfrequeDted  village  of  Beloeil, 
I  iHOceedeii,  according  to  the  travelling  custom  in 
Cuniida,  to  the  house  of  the  curd,  who  generally 
Gonhiderd,  in  the  remoter  parts  of  the  country,  the 
trilling  chargea  of  huspitaiily  repaid  by  the  novelty 
ot  a  Htrangcr's,  visit,  and  by  the  little  news  he  cora> 
monly  brings  with  him  ;  but  the  cure  of  Belocil  was  a 
youth  ot  the  new  school,  a  cold  lanky  figure,  as 
dilTereut  from  my  mountain  friend  in  manners,  as  in 
appearance.  With  a  very  stifT  apology*  he  recom- 
mended me  and  my  baggage  to  a  neighbouring  au- 
berge,  where  I  found  more  tolerable  accommodation 
than  the  exteriour  seemed  to  promise  ;  it  had,  how- 
ever,  one  puzzling  quality,  but  which  could  be  ex- 
hibited in  wet  weather  only  ;  wheu  the  shutters  were 
open,  the  whtdows  would  not  keep  out  the  rain,  and 
when  they  were  closed,  they  would  not  let  in  the 
light,  so  that  |for  one  wet  forenoon  I  had  to  choose 
betwixt  darkness  and  deluge.  The  next  morning  I 
again  crossed  the  river,  and  proceeded  towards  the 
mountain,  which  towered  like  a  wall  of  rock  above 
the  tlat  country  round  it.  A  few  wretched  houses 
are  scattered  at  its  base,  the  inhabitants  of  which 
subsist  chiefly  by  the  produce  of  their  apple-or- 
chards, whose  luxuriant  verdure  richly  embowvPrs 
(he  whole  slope,  until  the  ascent  becomes  difficult. 
At  the  end  ol  this  hainiet  is  a  mill,  built  on  the  edge 
of  a  ravine,  and  turned  by  the  streamlet  of  (iie 
mountain-lake  descending  down  it.  Here  1  stopped 
to  breakfast  i  for  the  mill  lervea  in  the  capacity  of 


THE    BKLOCIL    MOUNTAIN. 


85 


r  Beloeil, 
ustom  in 
generally 
ntry,  the 

novelty 

he  com- 
e'iI  was  a 
giire,  as 
rs,  as  in 
e  recom- 
iring  au- 
tnodation 
ul,   how- 

1  be  ex- 
ers  were 
rain,  and 

t  in  (he 
)  choose 

orning  I 

u'ds   (he 

above 

hoiinea 

which 

pple-or- 

ibowv»rs 
iflicult. 

10  edge 
of  the 
topped 

at  il^  of 


an  inn,  to  the  few  whom  chance  may  mislead,  or 
repentance  for  the  sin  of  ghittony  induce  to  stop  at 
it.  I  found,  however,  bread,  milk,  and  fresh  eiigs, 
(but  no  tea-spoon  to  eat  them  with,)  and  paid  (he 
price  of  a  London  hotel  breakfuMl  ;  a  strong  proof  of 
the  actual  want  prevailing  in  (he  province.  To 
avoid  the  (hick  murky  air  of  (he  dwelling,  I  had  my 
table  placed  out  of  doors,  in  the  shade  of  (he  houne, 
and  breakfasted  to  (he  a<lmira(ion  of  half  a  dozen 
curly  ragged  heads,  clustering  at  (he  window  (o 
watch  how  I  ale ;  an  honour,  I  remember,  paid  to 
the  great  travellev  Gulliver,  by  the  natives  of  liilli- 
pu(. 

After  breakfac,^  I  began  the  ascent.  The  first 
part  of  (he  way  lies  (hrough  a  deep  grove  of  ni;»ple, 
and  prescn(s  no  grea(er  ditliculty  than  that  of  mount- 
ing, or  creeping  round  the  masnes  of  rock  whirh 
cover  the  ground,  and  effectually  bar  the  road  (o 
one  unac(piain(ed  wi(h  i(8  defiles.  The  ragged  ur- 
chin, who  served  me  as  guide,  led  on,  like  a  goat 
bred  on  (he  soil,  up  (he  narrow  (raci,  which,  now 
ascending  above  (he  shelter  of  (lit;  woods,  exposed 
us  (o  a  burning  sun';"*  (he  dust  and  fatigue  of  clamb- 
ering were  in  no  want  of  (his  addidonal  it!ly  (o  len- 
der (he  expedition  somewha(  fa(iguing<  The  height 
of  (he  first  pinnacle  is  \2(U)  feet ;  it  issepar.led  from 
the  highest  point,  called  tlu;  Sugar  Loal',  by  a  deep 
and  thickly  (imbered  valley,  (owards  (he  end  of 
which,  a  beautiful  lake,  about  half  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference, reposes  amid  its  woods  ;  so  calm,  Hcchided, 
and  raised  above  (he  eardi,  i(  seems  (he  Mountain- 
Spirits'  bath,  or  (he  magick  lake  of  somu  Ar.ibian 
fiction.  It  abounds  wi(h  excellen(  fish,  (hough  I 
have  no  reason  (o  (hink  (hey  are  of  four  colours,  or 
make  speeches  in  (he  frying-pan. 

'*'  The  tlirrmuravlor  itood  at  OO"*  in  tlie  Rliude,  btforc  I  be- 
i^Bii  to  aiccnd. 


/' 


**- 


THK    BELa!:iL    MOUNTA.IN. 


'\l 


! 


m 


From  the  summit  of  the  cone,*  (for  Ihe  Sugar 
Loaf  has  some  little  claim  to  its  i)|)|)ellation,)  the  eye 
coinmunda  the  course  of  the  St.  Liwretice,  with  its 
two  lakes  ;  and  belvvixt  them,  the  town  ami  hei<rhta 
of  Montreal :  on  on-?  side,  Ihe  course  of  the  Riche- 
lieu, vrith  the  Chamhiy  fort  and  basin,  and  frontier 
woods  beyond;  on  the  other,  ihe  Atamasca  ;  and  to 
the  south,  continued  mountain  rid,>;es,  fadin*;  in  the 
distance:  except  in  this  direction,  the  whole  pros- 
pect is  a  level  plain  of  woodland,  intersected  and 
8[)<>ited  with  brown  patches  of  cultivation,  and   white 


villa;;es. 


Volumes  of  smoke,  from  the  casual,  or  intentional 
burning  of  woods,  every  where  clouded  the  horizon, 
and  seemed  to  give  additional  heat  to  Ihe  glowing 
landscape. 

Tiie  basis  of  the  mountain  is  granite,  forming  a 
bold  termination  to  that  branch  of  Ihe  Oreen  M(tnn- 
(ains,  which  divides  Ihe  wnlers  of  lake  Cham|)lain 
from  Ihe  sources  of  Ihe  A.tamasca  and  St.  Fran- 
cis.f  Qn  mv  way  down,  I  stopped  to  refresh  my- 
self at  a  delicious  Sjiring,  in  the  valley  of  the  lake, 
repaying  the  favour,  as  I  could  best  afford,  with  an 
idle  verse  : — 


h/i 


I 


Seldom.  O  Niiiad,  thy  ^n(|iiKster*d  dell 

Hath  pil^rriin  trodJeii,  or  Ifiit  o'er  lliy  well 

To  slakf^  ills  tliirst,  and  lavo  his  throl>l)in<<;  brow, 

And  thank  Iheo  lor  th«.'  Ihion,  as  I  do  now  ! 

Tliiiio  is  no  sliiiliul  draiiti;lit,  ttiit  larj^Kly   eiven 

As  hlpssihi^s  art;  raiit'd  dovrn  on  man  Ity  hcav'n  ; 

Not  as  mm  i^ivos  to  man — Tlinr«'lon!  I'll  thmk, 

In  tutiini  days,  npon  tliy  grassy  brink. 

And  nameless  spriiiK; ;  cold,  undistnrb'd  and  clnar, 

As  Alpino  iriclcs,  or  holy  snor, 

*  Till'  hcif^hl  of  this  piuuaule  hai  buuu  ascertained  to  be 
140()  icnt. 

f  Volncy  oljsorrrH,  i,  49. 

"  liC  sitmmct  di<  la  monta^nc  dc  IIcIumI  oM  do  }|;ranit,  anlii 
quo  lo  rhainoii  di>s  miinU<{n)^s  lilanchuK  de  Ne«r  Hampshire 
auquel  on  puut  dire  qn'il  appartiont." 


I'l 


%  ^ 


iTtained  to  be 


THE    DELCEIL    MOUNTAIN. 

Whose  bosom  passion  never  touched  with  fire  : 

And  this  iiay*8  imMiiory  shall  live  fntire, 

To  tell  how  on  an  August  noon  I  toil'd 

To  gain  Hi-'la^rs  rude  summits;  all  hemoil'd 

With  threading  tluUiot  wilderness  of  iMUghs, 

Whose  intcrtwiniiiL    -ranty  path  allows; 

And  climhuig  rocks  oi  ^^ranite,  broad  and  bare, 

Which,  thus  upheaving  their  grey  sides  in  air, 

Like  Nature's  altars  seem  ;  or  giant  thrones, 

Where  mountain  (ienii  sit,  to  catch  the  tones 

Of 'teav'n's  high  minstrelsy,  and  thence  prolong 

In  v/aterlalls  and  breexes,  the  deep  song. 

The  peak  at  length,  and  topmost  stone  I  won, 

And  guz'd  upon  the  lanilscape,  wide  and  dun; 

Far-gleamini:  lakes,  and  the  majestick  river, 

Whosesilver  waters  through  the  brown  fields  quiver; 

Broad  forests  uiapp'd  all  round,  the  royal  bill, 

In  sultry  mistiness  repos'd  and  still  : 

Descending  thence,  I  hail  thy  silent  bow^r. 

In  its  gr^'cn  frcsjinrss,  at  this  glowing  boiir, 

When  birds  are  panting  in  the  leafy  brakes. 

And  the  biytbe  grasliopprr  shrill  miisick  makes, 

A  uoonlide  rev»'ller— and  long  for  thee 

Be  this,  (by  vaMey  of  (he  iiiouiitain,  free 

From  woodman's  stroke;  so  o'er  (by  shaded  spring 

These  tower  ng  maples  shall  their  verdure  fling. 

And,  shield- like,  their  broad    branches  overspread. 

To  fence  (be  <-oolness  of  thy  mossy  bed — 

My  harp  is  feeble,  \aiad,  and  its  tone 

Best  heard  by  echoes,   lonely  as  thine  own, 

Kise,  Willi  Kaiulusia's  fountain,  thou  shouldst  live 

Th'  immortal  life  sweet  jMietry  can  give. 

Thou,  and  thy  kimlred  lake,  whose  moonlight  brim,  ) 

No  Kummer  elves  have  printed,   gemm'd  and  (rim,  > 

Gvok'd  by  tdiepberd's  reed,  or  minstrel's  hymn.      S 


sr 


^ 


{ 


I  08  J 


CHAPTER  XVI. 


MONTREAL. 


m\'\l 


i't 


The  basis  of  the  Montreal  Mountain  is  freestone; 
th»?  asrent  is  connequently  less  steep,  and  the  siir- 
fa«'f*  (ess  broken,  than  those  of  Beloeil :  it  is  thickly 
woo<le<!,  and,  form  (he  river,  forms  an  elegant  back- 
groiinl  'o  fhe  city  :  I  Mhould  not  suppose  its  hei^^ht 
to  exreid  1000  feet.  Montreal  is  regularly  built,  for 
the  most  part  of  stone,  and  paved.  In  front  of  the 
gaol  an.l  coui-thouse,  is  a  column  in  honour  of  Lord 
Nels;>u,  crowned  with   his  sta'ue.* 

Ttie  religious  auf'  charitable  institutions  of  Mon- 
treal are  counterparts  of  those  at  Quebec.  The 
principal  Catholick  church  is  rich  and  handsome. 
The  protestant  church,  like  its  brother  at  Quebec, 
will  probably  decay  ere  finished.  Tliere  seems 
BO  nethin.;  in  the  Canadian  climate,  unfavourable  to 
the  2;iowth  of  Protestant  churches,  thou£;h  the  En- 
glish inhabitants  are  great  friends  to  Protestant  as- 
cendancy ;  a  feeling  less  costly  than  church  build- 
inz,'  The  college,  or  seminary,  a  capacious  stone 
building,  has  been  lately  repaired  and  enlarged.  It 
was  originally  endowed  as  a  branch  of  the  seminary 
of  P  iriji ;  and  has  afforded  an  asy'um,  since  the  re- 
volution, to  several  of  the  members  of  the  latter, 
whost:  learning  and  talents  have  been  employed  in 
its    advancement. f      The   fineKt  lands  of  the   island 

*  It  si*f>m<i  odd.  tliat  instead  of  a  colinnn  (o  liord  IVelson, 
who«''  s»-rvu»«,  how<-vf*r  glorious,  wcuo  not  very  immediately 
comr^rted  with  Taiiada,  it  wus  not  thoi^lit  prei'urable  lo  erect 
KOiUi*  memorial  lo  tlio  mtiiuory  of  Wolfe. 

t   Thix  asylum  was  opened  to  tlicin  hy  our  {ovcrnucnt 


MONTRBAL. 


belons;  to  it.  There  seems  a  greater  spirit  of  muni- 
cijial  improvement  iti  IVIontreal  fhan  in  Quebec  :  it 
is  probably  ri('li(;r :  besides  being  the  emporium  of 
the  fur  rraiie,  it!<  merchants  carry  on  a  conHiderable 
traffick  with  the  United  Slates,  particularly  Vermont, 
and  the  back  country  of  New  York.  The  fur-tra- 
ders, or  North-westers,  as  they  are  familiary  termed, 
take  (lie  lead  in  society,  for  they  five  the  best  din- 
ners. Their  ladies  have  consequently  the  privilege 
of  leadin-j;  the  fashions  ;  an  eminence  not  less  anx- 
iously desired,  nor    preserved   with  tewer  heart  burn- 


ings. 


in  a   little  town  on   the    St.    Lawrence,  ih 


an   in 


the  capitals  of  France  and  Enulartd. 

Ttie  winter  is  accitunied  two  months  shorter  here 
than  at  (-iuebec.  The  snmm«'r  heat  seems  more 
oppressive:  the  flat  and  '<ht'l(ered  site  of  the  town, 
its  roofs  covered  with  tin,  and  its  window  shutters 
plater!  with  iron,  totrether  with  abundance  of  dust, 
produce  a  furnace-like  atu)0<^|)hei( .  I  met  uilh  no- 
thin,  in  the  town  which  «oul(l  be  called  remarkable, 
except  a  pathetick  adilress  to  a  rnn-a-nay  wile  from 
her  diHconsolate  husbanti,  written  on  a  window-pane 
where,  I  lodged.  I  call  this  remarkable,  for  surely 
it  is  a  strant;e  propensity  to  make  an  attempt  on 
ubiick  Hymptihy,  by  a  (Jisclosine  of  troubles  more 
kely    to   excite   ridicule    than    pity.      We    find 


in- 


deed,  at  every  tiiin  in  life,  persons  eager  to  liuhten 
th*;ir  griefs  by  sharing  thnn,  vwn  with  a  stran-ier, 
if  he  can  be    induced    to   h'nd  a  nciions 


countenance 


to  their  recital,  hut  (his  attempt  upon  the  svmpathy 
of  siranijerH  absdariedly,  seems  an  odder  instance 
of  (his  leakiness  oi    o mu. 


I 


ply  :— 


imagined,  but  did  not  subscribe,  (he  following 


re- 


liord  Nelson, 

iinintMiialely 

ralile  to  erect 


Aw\  who  art  thou.  iMifnrtiinatr,  whose  pain 

Tliii«.  U'-ks  iIk'  <ri  iK'i-al  trap  ' 
Thy  Oiari'  111'  vvi)  cmililM  t  lioii  «.()  ill  siistaio. 

That  thou  should'st  write  it  here  ? 


13 


•     i 


....••'*^A-»-»«* 


,-.♦" 


'm 


V  MONTREAL. 

To  meet  the  gaze  of  laiighter-lnving  scorn, 

And  court  the  piihlick  jeer  ? 
Deein'st  thou,  that  fir«t  of  men,  the  nuptial  hr  -^ 

Thy  brow  hath  glorified  ? 
Yet  learn  such  honours  should  be  meekly  worn 

Nor  perk  them  in  our  t'acrs.  to  df  ride 
Patient  believers  in  a  constant  bride. 

Frail  as  this  ser  bbled  glass 
Are  those  fair  things  we  wor^-hip  and  despise; 

Nor, — should  thv  life-hlnod  pass 
Like  rain-drops, —  ««ill  they  heed  the  sacrifice: 

To  thy  fair  wanton's  ears 
The  voice  of  thy  coiniilamt  like  musick  flows; 

And  gemm'd  with  lover's  tears. 
The  coronal  of  Beauty  brighter  glows  : 

Then  deem  not  she'll  relent. 
Or  stoop  the  wild  wng  of  her  joyous  flight, 

Pitying  thy  fond  lament ! 
TLou  rather,  in  some  cell  of  eremite, 

Thy  foolery  repent. 
That  know'st  not  Love's  sweet  flowers  with  venom  wefe 
aye  blent. 


'!    • 


« 


K 


[    91    ] 


CHAPTER   XVII. 


MONTREAL  TO  THE  BOUNDARY. 


Aug.  7tli.    La  Chine 
I'oiiit  Clair 
St.  Aiiae 
[Ferry 
Cfciars 
8tb.    Coteau-du-Lac 


7  Milei. 

9 

9 

3J 
9 

7  Caleche. 

44 


Xhb  road  from  Montreal  to  the  ferry  crosges  a  coun- 
try generally  level,  but  pleasingly  diversified   with 
wood  and  cultivated  land,  for  the  most  part  meadow. 
The  hay  harvest  had  commenced,  a^id  the  fragrance 
of  the  fresh  swathe  seemed  to  unite  with  the  cooling 
aspect  of  the  broad  St.  Lawronce  in  tempering  the 
Bun's  heat.     The  villages  of  La  Chme,  and   Point 
Clair,  were  enlivened  by  groups  of  soldiers,  who  had 
marched  in  from  Montreal,  and  were  taking  up  their 
quarters  for  the  night  ;  occasionally  small  parties  of 
Indians,  from  the  oppo.site  village  of  Cochenouaga, 
with  their  hats  tricked  out  with  feathers,  necklaces 
of  large  blue  beads,  tinsel  girdles,  and  bronzed  in- 
fants, looking  out  from  theit*  cradles,''^  at  their  moth- 
ers' backs,  formed  a  fanciful  contrast  to  tlie  regular 
costume  of  the  soldiers. 

*  1 1186  thifl  word  for  want  nf  a  iM^tter :  (lie  Indian  women 
atill  fasten  their  riiildreu  to  a  flat  hoard,  which  Han^s  lit^hind 
them,  and  ii  dci'endod  l>y  small  hoops  of  wicker,  on  ttie  expos- 
ed tide. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


1.0 


1.1 


11.25 


lis 


■  25 
^  li^   |2.2 


lU 


■  2.0 

^U4 


Photographic 
.Sciences 
Corporation 


9S  WHT  MAIN  STMIT 

WHSTH.N.Y.  I4SI0 

(7U)  •73-4S03 


> 


4 


r/. 


^^ 


:\ 


V 


-% 


92 


MONTREAL  TO  THE  BOUNDARY. 


!   1 


The  bustle  of  the  road  had  all  vanished  by  the 
time  I  entered  (he  little  wood  immediately  round  the 
ferry,  and  was  succeeded  by  a  scene  of  quiet  splen- 
dour, that  Claude  would  have  delighted  in.  1  seated 
myself  on  a  rock,  near  the  water's  edge,  lo  admire  it. 
An  orchard,  belonging  to  (lie  ferry-house,  with  the 
adjacent  wood,  closed  the  back  ground  :  oti  my  right, 
the  river  spread  otit  into  the  lake  of  the  Two  Moun- 
tains, whose  blue  summits  bounded  the  pioHpect  in 
that  direction  :  on  my  left  was  a  lilt'e  church  of  grey 
stone,  stained  with  moss,  and  going  fast  to  decay  ; 
beyond  which,  on  the  opposite  shore,  lay  the  mas- 
sive woods  of  L'Isle  Perroi :  the  ri\er  in  front  of  me 
(which  is  here  about  three  miles  over)  was  spotted 
with  numberless  rocky  islets,  behind  which,  the  sun, 
sinking  in  a  flood  of  golden  (ire,  presented,  in  beauti- 
ful relief,  the  dark  clumps  of  pine  trees,  which  seem- 
ed pencilled  out  on  their  summits.  A  herd  of  cattle 
at  this  moment  came  down  lo  water,  and  as  they  loi- 
tered listlestsly  in  the  glassy  stream,  seemed  to  share, 
with  man,  in  the  tranquil  feelings  of  the  scene  and 
hour.  The  ferryman's  broad  straw  hat,  and  light 
canoe,  now  appeared  ;  and  as  we  paddled  swiftly  by 
these  many  little  island-bowers,  towards  the  glowing 
west,  fancy  may  be  pardoned  for  half  sketching  a 

Fassage  lo  the  Elysian  fields,  or  enchanted  gardens  of 
talian  romance.  The  blaze  of  sun-set  had  mellowed 
into  the  purple  tints  of  evening,  before  we  reached 
the  opposite  shore  :  I  proceeded  by  moonlight  to  the 
Cedars,  where  I  procured  lea,  by  knocking  up  a  civil 
landlord,  and  the  next  morning  went  on  to  "  Coteau- 
du-Lac,"  between  which,  and  Cornwall,  runs  the 
boundary  line  of  the  two  provinces. 

After  quitting  the  neighbourhood  of  IVIontreal,  we 
lee  little  of  the  French  Canadian  ;  he  is  succeeded 
by  settlers  of  a  character  very  ditTerent  ;  and  with 
whom  he  is  generally  placed  in  humiliating  contrast. 
lie  gains  lillle  by  travellers  ;  few  enter  his  cottage, 
0r  ioquiiitively  scan  the  character  of  an  ignorant  and 


/*■ 


MONTREAL    TO    THB    BOUNDART. 


93 


Buperstilious  race,  who  aspire  to  little  more  than  to 
Walk  in  the  steps  of  their  prieslH,  and  loiefalhers. 
Certainly,  if  intellectual  power  be  the  sole  measure  of 
human  merit,  their's  lies  in  little  compass. — Ignoiunt 
they  unqneiitionably  are,  though  I  lioubt  whether 
they  have  a  right  to  such  extreme  pre-eminence  in 
this  respect,  as  Enp;lishmen  are  usually  libtMal  enough 
to  assign  them.  Schools  are  common  through  ilie 
Province,  and  the  number  of  colleges  seems  propor- 
tioned to  the  population  :  the  gentry  and  tratiesimen 
appear  not  much  inferiour  in  information  to  ilic  voun- 
Uy  gentlemen  and  tradesmen  of  wiser  natii>ns  ;  and  if 
the  share  of  the  peasant's  intellect  exceeds  noi  much 
that  of  the  ox  he  drives,  he  iniy  claim  fellowship  in 
this  respect,  with  the  pea^iiint  of  almost  every  cunnlry 
on  the  globe,  except  the  Uwited  Stales,  lie  is  cer- 
tainly superstitious,  that  is,  he  believes  all  his  piirst 
tells  him — no  great  peculiarity.  Let  not,  ho'  c\rr, 
those  qualities  be  overlooked,  whit  h  give  a  grace  to 
his  poverty,  sweeten  the  cup  of  his  privations,  and 
almost  convert  his  ignorance  into  bli'*8. —  K"»Miii;illy 
a  Frenchman,  he  is  gay,  courteous  and  conlenicfl  : 
If  the  rigours  of  a  Canadian  climate  have  somewhat 
chilleil  the  overflowing  vivacity  derived  from  liis  pa- 
rent stock,  he  has  still  a  sullirii-nt  portion  of  g*/od 
spirits  and  loquacity,  to  make  his  rulers  :ind  nei;:.h- 
bours  seem  cold  and  silent:  To  strangers  and  travel- 
lers, be  is  invariably  civil,  seemin;:  to  v.ilne  I  heir 
good   word   beyond   their   money  :    lie   is   reckoned 

J)arsimonious,  because  all  his  gains  arise  from  his  sav- 
ngs  :    He  is  satisfied  with  the  liuiidilest  fare,  and  his 
utmost  debauch  never  exceeds  a  "  coup"  of  nnn,  and 

f>ipe  of  tobacco,  taken  with  a  dish  &'  gossi|>,  I  lie  only 
uxury  in  which  he  can  be  accouDtctI  extravauant. 
The  influence  of  the  priests  is  pro!  ably  injnrinns,  as 
it  atTects  mental  improvement,  benc'leial  u'lli  re~^i»e(  t 
to  morals.  Religion,  or  rather  superstition,  and  p  n- 
rality,  are  so  birmled  in  (he  mind  of  the  (  .ucMlii.n, 
(hat  were  the  former  shaken,  considerable  timt  must 


1 


111,  ^ 
I  ;•' ' '  j', 


'■ii 


\i 


94 


MONTREAL  TO  THE  BOUNDARY. 


elapse  before  any  basis  could  be  raised  on  which  to 
found  the  latter.  At  present,  great  crimes  are  almost 
unknown,  and  petty  ufTences  are  rare  ;  I  have  indeed 
heard  the  lower  classes  accused  of  a  propensity  to 
pilfer,  but  I  am  inclined  to  think,  few  instances  of 
this  kind  occur,  e^ccept  from  the  pressure  of  extreme 
want.     The  late  war,  by  calling  out  a  considerable 

Eroportion  of  the  population  to  serve  in  the  militia, 
as  produced  an  evii<ent  change  in  the  manners  of 
the  youug  men  :  1  always  found  two  invariable  symp- 
toms of  a  man's  having  served  ;  a  little  more  intelli- 
gence, and  a  great  deal  more  knavery.  But  if  the 
war  did  iiof  mend  their  morals,  it  certainly  raised 
their  character :  They  exhibited  a  high  degree  of 
courage  in  the  field,  and  an  affectionate  zeal  towards 
their  governo- r,  whom  they  believed  their  friend: 
a  striking  instance  of  this  occurred  early  in  the  war. 
While  Sir  George  Prevost  was  at  Montreal,  a  body 
of  several  hundred  peasants,  from  the  remotest  set- 
tlements of  the  province,  came  to  wait  on  him  ;  each 
man  was  armed  with  whatever  weapon  he  could  pro- 
cure on  the  spur  of  the  occasion,  and  all  were  cloath- 
ed  and  provisioned  for  immediate  service :  An  old 
man,  who  had  been  a  soldier  in  the  revolutionary 
war,  was  at  their  head,  who  thus  addressed  Sir 
George :  "  My  general,  we  heard  you  were  in  diffi- 
culty, and  have  marched  to  your  assistance  ;  I  have 
served  myself,  and  though  an  old  man,  do  not  think  I 
am  quite  incapable  of  duty." — Sir  GeorgCj  strongly 
aflfected  with  this  instance  of  attachmentr  4<*'Cepted 
their  services,  ind  they  acted  as  a  separat«<body 
during  the  whole  of  the  campaign. 

The  Canadians  bear  a  considerable  antipathy  to 
the  Americans,  whom  they  denominate,  **  Sacres 
Bastonnais.***  I  believe  it  to  arise  principally  from 
religious  prejudices;  in  proof  of  which,  there  is  a 
itriking  anecdote  related  in  the  life  of  Franklin,  who 

*"  BoBtooeit.    Inbabitaotiof  Boitoo. 


*» 


■W 


.}' 


MOITTREAL    TO    THK    BOUNDART. 


made  an  attempt  to  bring  them  over  to  the  revolu- 
tionary  cause.  At  this  day,  even  the  better  inform- 
ed among  them  are  rull}r  persuaded  that  the  Ameri- 
can guvernment  is  constantly  plotting  their  ruin,  and 
the  destruction  of  the  mighty  city  of  Quebec.  I 
was  witness  to  a  curious  exemplification  of  this  feel- 
ing :  A  young  Canadian,  by  no  means  illiterate,  in- 
formed me  one  morning,  with  a  very  grave  face,  that 
a  tremendous  plot  had  been  discovered — to  destroy 
the  whole  city  by  blowing  up  the  powder  magazine ; 
that  a  train  had  been  found  ready  laid,  and  no 
doubt  existed  of  an  American's  being  at  the  end  of 
it.     1  took  the  trouble  to  trace  the  source  of  this  re- 

Eort,  and  found  it  to  originate  in  an  order  to  mend  a 
roken  door  belonging  lo  the  magazine.  A  Bre  never 
happens  in  the  town,  (and  they  happen  very  often,) 
but  the  "  Bastonnaia^*  are  the  incendiaries. — Petty 
quarrels  betwixt  the  natives  and  the  Vermontese  keep 
this  feeling  alive  ;  and  the  English  may  well  say  of  It, 
in  the  words  of  Sir  Lucius  O'Trigger,  ♦'  'Tis  a  pret- 
ty quarrel  as  it  is,  and  explanation  would  spoil  it." 


» 


i«  ' 


/' 


'# 


«•       V        -       «»rtE<*-      ' 


»    » 


[   96   ] 
CHAPTER  XVin. 


UPPER  CANADA. 


Miles. 

August  8th, 

Cornwall, 

40  Batteau 

gth, 

Milleroche*, 

b  Iti 

Williamsburg, 

21 

PrfHcolt, 

19  Stage. 

Brock  ville. 

14  Waggon 

10th, 
nth, 

GiinHiioqua,     \ 
KingstOQ,        i 

36  Boat. 

A's 


133  1-2 


•li.v 


'>J.' 


{ ',  ^ ' 


'Tis  a  sad  waste  of  life  to  ascend  the  St.  Lawrence 
in    a    batteau.      After    ad.niring    the    exertions    with 
which  the  CinaHiio  baattnen,  w'lo  see'ii  to  liave  ex- 
clusive poHHes'iion   of  this  e  n}>ii)yfnenf,   force   their 
Ion,;  1il-b')flo  n^ii  barks  against  the  rapiiU,  there  is 
nofdin^  left  bit  to  gaze  listlessly  on  the  descending 
current,  an  I  its  low  wojJetl  shorjes  ;  while  the  mono- 
tony of  the  oir-stroke  i*  scarcely  broken  by  the  oc- 
casionil  rustling  of  a  wild  dirk  through  the  sedge,  or 
cry  of  the    A  Q»rican   king-fisher,  as   he   darts  froTi 
80  ne  hinging  bough  on  his  scaly  prey.     It  cost  us 
15  hoiirs   to   row  fro  n  Coteau  dn-Lac   to  Corn  will, 
with  bill  one  incident  during  the  vo\rage  ;  this  wns  a 
piirchise,  or  rather  barter,  of  bisi'iiit  for  dried  eels, 
with  a  party  of  half-naked   In  lians,  who  n  we  found 
idly  occupied,  under  a  clump  of  trees  on  the  shore, 
in  curing  the  produce  of  their  fishery.     Several  of 
their  birch  cinoes  were  anchored  among  the  islands, 
or  glancing  along  the  stream,  as  we  passed  the  neigh- 
bourho'>d  of  St.  Regis,  where  the  Oswegatcbies  have 
a  settlement. 

A  sta;e-wiggon  runs  from  IVIjutreal  to  Prescott, 
and  carries  the  mail,  which  is  afterwards  conveyed 
on  hir.ieb.ick  to  Kingston  ;  (  took  it  at  Cornwall,  and 
can  answer  for  its  being  one  of  the  roughest  convey- 
ances on  either  side  the  Atlantick. 


n 


^  4  :-*tftr;^* 


'*>«',—.  ••  ..V*      ._•■(•»* 


UPPER    CANADA. 


97 


The  face  of  the  country  is  invariably  flat ;  and,  (as 
in  Lower  Canada,")  settlements  have  not  spread  far 
froiu  (he  river,  and  main  road,  which  follows  its  banks. 
There  is,  however,  an  evident  dilference  betwixt  the 
two  provinces,  as  to  the  mode  of  settling.  The 
system  ol'farming  is  here  altogether  Etiglish,  or  Ame- 
rican. The  low,  deep-roofed  Canadian  dwelling, 
gives  place  to  the  English  farm-house,  or  Yankey  fir- 
boarded  mansion,  with  a  dozen  sash  windows  in  its 
front.  Instead  of  churches  we  have  taverns  ;  gaols, 
and  assembly-roomd  for  convents  ;  and  a  half  sulky 
nod  for  a  French  bow.  Two  Canadian  postillions 
never  meet  without  touching  their  hats  ;  the  Portu- 
guese peai^antry  are  equally  ceremonious  ;  when  the 
American  or  Englishman  nods,  '(is  like  the  growling 
salutation  of  a  masdtf,  who  has  no(  quite  leisure  enough 
to  (urn  and  quarrel  with  you. 

The  picturesque  is  but  scantily  spread  through 
this  tract  of  counlry  ;  occasionally,  however,  on 
emerging  from  a  dark  clump  of  pines,  or  hickory 
Kood,  the  eye  dwells  with  pleasure  on  the  course 
of  (he  river,  broken  with  wooded  islands,  and 
foaming  over  a  thousand  rocks.*  The  chirp  of  the 
locust,  (he  continual  tapping  of  the  redheaded  wood- 
pecker, {picas  erythrocephidus,)  and  the  light  bound 
of  the  squirrel,  as  he  traverses  (he  newly  erected 
fences,  are  sights  and  sounds  which  enliven,  what, 
as  far  as  regards  the  features  of  (he  coun(ry,  may 
be  called  a  somewhat  heavy  journey.  Prescott  is 
remarkable  for  nothing  but  a  square  redoubt,  or  fort, 
called  Fort  VVelling(on.  As  a  military  traveller,  I 
should  observe,  there  is  a  small  fort  at  Coleau-du- 
Lac,  through  the  works  of  which  a  lock  has  been 
cut,  to  avoid  a  dangerous  rapid. — I  found  the  ac- 
comodations at  Prescolt  so  bad,  (hat  I  seated  my 
■elf  at  midnight  in  a  light  waggon,  in  which  two  gen- 

*  There  in  a  mill  and  small  Tillage,  within  a  Tew  miles  of 
Cornwall,  named  **  Milleroclies,**  from  the  aiyacent  rapidi. 

13        a" 


I  n  1 


,,;i^i 


11 


'^-„ 


m 


UPPER    CANADA. 


tiemen  were  going  to  Brockville,  and  was  thus  so  far 
jumbled  into  their  acquaintance,  that  thev  politely 
offered  me  a  passage  to  KingHlon,  in  a  boat  belooi^ing 
to  the  navy,  which  was  waiting  for  them  at  Biock- 
ville.  I  am  always  unlucky  on  the  water,  whether 
it  be  in  crossing  the  ocean,  or  a  duck  pond:  The 
wind  [Koved  contrary,  and  our  heavy  boat  pulled 
slowly  against  the  current ;  it  was,  however,  not  so 
bad  as  the  batteau  voyage  :  1  had  the  advantage  of 
agreeable  company,  and  a  good  provision  basket,  the 
contents  of  which  were  spread,  towards  noon,  on  a 
granite  table,  near  the  shore ;  a  kettle  was  boiled  at 
an  adjacent  cottage,  and  an  excellent  breakfast  ar- 
rani!;ed,  "  sub  tegminefagi.*^  Occasional  repetitions 
of  this  ceremony  tended  evidently  to  relieve  the  te- 
dium of  the  journey,  which  lasted  till  the  evening  of 
the  day  after  our  embarkation. 

The  river  banks,  from  the  neighbourhood  of  Brock- 
ville, are  of  limestone,  from  20  to  50  feet  in  height, 
and  evidently  grooved,  or  hollowed,  by  the  tides  of 
former  age^t.  Immense  masses  of  reddish  granite  are 
scattered  along  the  bed  of  the  stream,  and  some- 
times pri^ject  bare  and  bold  from  the  shore.  On 
one  of  these  projections  there  is  a  blockhouse,  form- 
ing a  prominent  object  at  a  considerable  distance. 
The  islands  which  crowd  the  approach  to  Lake  On- 
tario, called,  from  their  number,  1000  isles,  have  all 
a  granite  basis,  but  are  cloathed  with  cedar,  pine, 
and  abundance  of  raspberries ;  The  bed  of  the  Ga- 
nanoqua  is  also  of  granite,  and  the  lofty  banks  of  the 
Kingston  river,  near  the  mills,  are  of  the  same  rock, 
which  probablv  crosses  the'country  near  the  heads 
of  the  Oswegatchie,  Muskinsons,  Juniatta,  and  Ap- 
palusia  rivers  (the  latter  of  which  has  a  fall  of  150 
feet,)  till  it  strikes,  by  Lake  Champlain,  the  ridge  of 
the  Bejccil  mountains.  The  Gananoqua  is  rising 
into  importance,  from  the  circumstance  of  a  neir 
•ettlement  being  formed,  under  the  auspices  of  go- 
vernment, on  the  waters^  with  which  it  communi- 
catcB.  ^ 


,# 


DPPER    CANADA. 


99 


This  settlement  lies  on  the  head  lakes  of  the  Ri- 
deau,  and  is  meant  to  secure  a  communication  be- 
twixl  Montreal  and  Kingston,  by  way  of  the  Utiana, 
in  case  of  another  war  :  The  settlers  are  chietly 
disbanded  soldiers,  who  clear  and  cultivate  under  the ' 
superintendance  of  officers  of  the  quarler-master-ge- 
neral's  department.  Each  man  draws  rations  for 
himself  and  family,  the  expenise  of  which  is  about 
five  shillings  per  ration,  so  that  it  may  be  justly  call- 
ed a  hothouse  settlement.  A  canal  has  been  cut  to 
avoid  the  falls  of  the  Rideau,  and  the  communica- 
tion, eith<jr  by  the  Gananoqua,  or  Kingston,  will  be 
iaip'uved  by  locks.  Kingston  is  singularly  happy 
in  ifii  >>ite,  lor  naval  piirpubes;  it  consists  of  three 
parts,  disposed  thus : — 


# 


■  !^ 


'i 


« 


""r^*. 


100 


OFFER   CANADA. 


V:^-l 


The  basis  of  the  soil  is  a  complete  quarry  of  lime- 
itoiie,  ditiposed  in  horizontal  strata,  on  the  surface  of 
the  earth,  and  requiring  only  (o  be  raised  with 
a  lever,  to  be  fit  for  use.  The  fort,  which  was 
merely  a  field  work  during  the  war.  Is  now  finishing 
with  stone  dug  from  its  own  foundation ;  and,  having 
two  stout  Marteilo  lowers,  already  looks  formidable 
from  the  lake  :  it  is  meant  chiefly  to  defend  the  navy- 
yard,  which  it  commands.  There  are  batteries  on 
Point  Frederick;  and  on  the  point  of  the  town, 
which  is  pallisaded,  and  strengthened  with  block- 
houses. I(  contains  some  good  houses,  and  stores; 
a  small  theatre,  built  by  the  military  for  private  thea- 
tricals ;  a  large  wooden  Government-house,  and  all 
the  appendages  of  an  ex(eneive  military,  and  naval 
establishment,  with  as  much  society  as  can  reasona- 
bly be  expected,  in  a  town  so  lately  created  from 
the  "  howling  desert."  The  adjacent  country  is 
flat,  stony,  and  barren ;  a  circumstance  which  per- 
haps increases  the  kind  of  interest  peculiar  to  the 
place  :  do  you  approach  it  by  land  ?  The  road  lies 
through  a  tract  of  forest,  in  the  midst  of  which  the 
first  rude  traces  of  population  are  scarcely  visible  : 
do  you  come  by  water  ?  Uncultivated  islands,  and  an 
uninterrupted  line  of  wooded  shore,  seem  conduct- 
ing you  to  the  heart  of  a  wilderness,  known  only  to 
the  hunter,  and  his  prey  :  you  emerge  from  a  wood, 
double  a  headland,  and  a  fleet  of  ships  lies  before 
you,  several  of  which  are  as  large  as  any  on  the 
ocean:  others,  of  equal  dimensions,  are  building  on 
the  spot,  where,  a  few  months  since,  their  frame- 
timbers  were  growing.  Two  sources  of  aslonish- 
ment  here  rise  in  the  mind  :  first,  the  magnitude  of 
the  resources  called  into  action  ;  secondly,  the  ob- 
ject which  called  them  forth.  Of  the  first,  some 
idea  may  be  formed,  by  considering  that  the  St. 
Lawrence  alone  cost  300,000^  The  Psyche  fri- 
gate, sent  from  England  in  frame,  cost  12,000/.  in 
transporting  from  Quebec.     The  Commissariat  dis- 


■«Jf*"«L^4y  ■.  ^,fi.- 


UPPER   CANADA. 


101 


bursements  at  Kingston,  during  the  war,  were  esti- 
mated at  1000/.  per  diem.  The  present  expense 
of  the  naval  establishment  is  about  25,000/.  per  an- 
num :  the  navy -yard  employs  1200  labourers."^  For 
the  object,  on  one  side,  there  is  America,  with 
<<  millions  on  millions"  of  acres  beyond  what  her  po- 
pulation can  fill  up,  on  the  other,  England,  contend- 
ing for,  and  expending  her  best  blood  and  treasure 
in  defence  of,  a  country,  one  half  of  which  is  little 
better  than  a  barren  waste  of  snows,  and  the  other, 
a  wild  forest,  scarcely  intersected,  by  a  thread  of 
population.     This  is  the  "gfrosjeu"  of  society. 

*  Considerable  reductions  have  lately  taken  place  in  the 
whole  establishment. 


"*  Jit 


rvff-t.i 


■'■*.  .      iC     ^j' 


hi- 


•»> 


^,'A>    V- 


*    » 


[  102  1 


CHAPTER  XIX. 

IINGSTON   TO   THB   BAY   OP    ftUINTE. 


'■.'M 


^ 


Ernest  Town 
Adolphus  Town 
Lake  of  the  Mouatain 


18  Miles. 
14 

2 

IT 


This  is  the  most  interesting  excursion  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Kingston.  Adolphus  Town  is  pleasant- 
ly situated  on  the  neck  of  the  bay.  Its  farms  are 
thriving,  and  cultivation  is  pushing  rapidly  through 
the  forests,  round  the  numerous  streams  and  bays, 
which  water  every  part  of  the  adjacent  country. 
After   crossing  the  ferry,  two  miles  beyond   Adol- 

Ehus  Town,  I  ascended  a  limestone  did',  to  the 
lake  of  the  Mountain,  immediately  on  its  verge : 
recent  measurements  have  fixed  its  height  at  ITd 
feet :  the  lake  may  be  a  mile  in  circucnference,  and 
abounds  in  fish :  it  formerly  discharged  itself  into 
the  river  by  a  perpendicular  fall  from  the  summit 
of  the  cliflf:  the  channel  of  the  cascade  still  remains, 
but  the  stream  is  more  profitably,  though  less  taste- 
fully, employed  in  working  a  mill.  From  this  Ta- 
ble Land  the  eye  commands  a  lovely  prospect, 
along  the  irregular  shores  of  the  bay,  into  which  the 
river  Nappanee,  and  a  variety  of  streams,  empty 
themselves,  through  a  rich  country,  the  dark  mas- 
liveness  of  whose  forests  is  already  considersrlily 
broken,  and  relieved  by  settlements  and  corn-fieli  a. 
Wheat  harvest  was  just  now  (August  16tb)  begii- 
ling  ID  this  neighbourhood,  and  generally  through 


'« 


KINGSTON   TO    THE   BAT    OP    qVINTE.       103 


Upper  Canada.  Excepting  the  river  Nappanee,  on 
which  the  Mohawks  have  a  settlement,  all  the  names 
rnunil  this  bay  are  right  loyal,  or  royal,  from  Ernest 
Town,  to  Adolphus  Town,  Prince  Edward's  Bay, 
Sophiasberg,  Maryflberg,  and  Ameliasberg,  on  the 
furthest  neck  of  land  at  its  head.  This  happy 
choice,  if  the  inhabitants  had  any  thing  to  do  with 
it,  speaks  well  for  their  politicks.  Their  morals  are 
no  less  refined,  being,  to  judge  from  their  names  of 
things,  modelled  on  the  Pialonick  system.  I  re< 
quested  the  fair  Maritornes  of  the  inn  at  Adolphus 
Town,  to  feed  my  horse,  while  I  walked  through  the 
village.  "  But  is  he  ugly  ?"  said  she ;  **  handsome 
enough  to  be  fed,"  I  answered  ;  not  then  compre- 
hending, that  in  the  language  of  the  country,  she 
elegantly  alluded  to  his  moral  qualities,  of  which 
alone  beauty,  or  deformity  may  be  truly  predi- 
cated. 

The  road  from  Ernest  Town  to  Kingston  runs, 
for  the  most  part,  through  forest ;  but  the  heaviness 
of  the  scenery  is  frequently  relieved  by  the  course 
of  some  quiet  creek,  descending  betwixt  its  rocky 
hi  Vs  to  the  lake,  which  gleams  at  irt^tervals  through 
the  trees.  The  summer  stillness  of^the  landscape 
seemed  forcibly  to  contrast  itself  wjth  the  sights 
and  sounds  of  war,  which  had  so~*laiiely  prevailed 
there;  and,  as  the  inhabitants  declare, Jiad  frighten- 
ed all  the  deer  and  wolves  back  to  Lake  Huron : 
certain  it  is,  they  have  lately  become  Very  scarce, 
so  the  fact  is  poetically  credible.  t 

Ontario's  ample  breast  is  still. 

And  silence  walks  tlie  distant  h\\\; 

And  siiitimor  barks  are  gently  gliding, 

Wliere  lately  yonder  war-towers  riding 

Seem'd,  like  leviathans,  to  load 

The  bosom  of  the  groaning  flood. 

Oft  as  grey  dawn  broke  o'er  the  wave, 

Each  hostile  line  stern  greeting  gavs, 

And  oft.  beneath  the  setting  sun,  « 

Responsive  peai'd  each  heavy  gun. 


It  "ill 


/"i 


vi. 


I 


< » 


■1  «■■  ■•■', 


■•#■ 


104        KINGSTON    TO    THE    BAY    OF    QCINTB. 

^        Then  crouch'd  the  midoight  ambuscade,         i 
T        Within  the  pine-wood's  pillar'd  shade, 
And  Indian  war-notes  fiercely  rose, 
A  death-dirge  to  unwary  foes. 
As  burst  their  murdering  attack 
Upon  the  drowsy  Bivouack. 
Round  leagci-ed  fort,  and  post,  and  ford. 
The  crashing  shell  and  cannon  roar'd, 
Till  rung  th'  alarum  of  the  fray, 
•»      From  old  Toronto's*  quiet  bay, 
To  rhere  Niagara  madly  pours 
His  uoiiing  tide  'twixt  mountain  shores  : — 
The  eagle,  whose  broad  wing  was  spread 
Above  the  cataract's  wild  bed, 
Scar'd  by  unwonted  thunders,  rose 
To  hang  the  nest  of  his  repose. 
Where  cedars  desolately  wave  ^i- 

O'er  Naniboja's  island-grave  :f 
No  wolf  bis  moon-light  hunt  pursued,       * 
By  Erie's  forest  sol'-tude. 
But  cowering  from  his  covert  ran, 
Dr\>ading  the  lordlier  chase  of  man; 
^     Nor  dar'd  th'  unhunted  stag  remain 

Near  his  lov'd  haunts,  and  green  demesne, 
But  far  from  sounds  of  human  slaughter. 
He  strays  by  Huron's  distant  waler. 


*  The  Indian  name  for  York,  where  formerly  was  an  Indian 
town. 

t  One  of  the  IMnnitoulin  islands.    For  the  story,  yid.  Hen- 
ry's Travels  la  Canada,  in  17«U  and  1776,  p.  liS. 


'9 


>.  ■ 


.vt;;'. 


J 


•        ■•      ) 

'1.'.  '■'  ^  i  - 


i«' 


1 


*:> 


« 


♦  * 


I      ' ' 


-t^: , 


# 


[  105] 


CHAPTER  XX. 


WESTERN  COUNTRY  OP  NEW  YORK. 


as  an  Indiao 
.▼id.  Hen- 

•■  „  > 
•i  ;i   <  • 


:  .^. 


J(;u8t  31 8t,  Sackett'8  Harbour, 

36 

Vliles.  Packet. 

pt.        Ist,  Wntertown, 

10  1 

Vaggon. 

2d,' DftunHrk, 

17 

Martinsberg, 

14 

* 

3d,    Tur.n, 

9 

Leyden, 

19 

iitftiben. 

17 

Trniton,  ) 

13 

Uticn,        < 

Atli,  New  Hartford, 

4 

Vernon, 

11 

Chenango, 

17 

Manlitis, 

6 

- 

Jainejivillp, 

5 

OuoiidBgo  Hollow, 

5 

li^                  MarcelluH, 

10 

. 

bkaiienctas. 

6 

6tb.  Auburn, 

8 

N 

Aureliui, 

4 

Cayuga, 

A 

Geneva, 

1» 

Canandaieua, 

16 

Stage, 

7th,  Biirninii  Spring 

8 

Rocliester, 

3U  Jeriiey  waggoo 

ttli,  &  0th,  LewiRtown,  by  the 
Bridge  road, 

80 

Stage. 

364 


Sackrtt's  harbour  haR  a  mean  appearance  after 
Kin<^»ton  ;  ilH  Hitiiation  Ih  low,  the  liuibuiir  hijiuII,  and 
fort ifi cat iuiifl  of  very  inditKt  rent  conHtriiclion,  both 
as  to  form  anil  inateriuU.  The  navy-yurd  conMiHta 
merely  of  a  narrow  loni^ne  of  land,  the  |>  int  of 
which  afiurdH  just  space   RutticieDt  tor  the  cunitruc- 

14 


f 


m 


i^r- 


■•^ 


.-f*  * 


M^ 


106 


WESTERN  eOUNTRV  OF  NEW  YORK. 


:h  f 


tion  of  one  first-rate  vessel,  with  barely  room  for 
workshops,  and  stores,  on  the  remaining  part  of  it. 
One  of  the  largest  vessels  in  the  world  is  now  on 
the  stocks  here;  her  dimensions  are  li)6  feel  keel, 
by  57  beam ;  she  is  built  over,  to  preserve  her,  and 
may  literally  be  said  to  be  housed  :  there  is  an  ob- 
servatory on  the  top  of  the  building,  commanding  an 
extensive  view  of  the  lake,  and  flat  wooded  country. 
About  a  mile  up  the  river,  there  is  another  vessel 
of  equal  dimensions,  built,  and  housed,  literally  in 
the  woods.  The  town  consists  of  a  long  street,  in 
the  direction  of  the  river,  with  a  fe\r  smaller  ones, 
crossing  it  at  right  angles:  it  covers  less  ground  than 
Kingston,  and  has  fewer  good  houses  ;  it  has,  how- 
ever, the  advantage  of  a  broad  flagged  footway, 
while  the  good  people  of  Kingston,  notwithstanding 
the  thousands  expended  in  their  town,  and  the  quar- 
ries beneath  their  feet,  submit  to  walk  ancle  deep  in 
mud,  after  every  shower.  Whence  this  difference  ? 
The  people  of  Kingston  are  not  poor,  ignorant, 
French  Canadians,  but  substantial,  active,  Scotch  or 
English  traders.  Probably  it  lies  in  this,  that  the 
Americans  are  at  home,  while  the  English  Canadian 
considers  himself  as  a  temporary  resident,  for  the 
purpose  of  making  a  fortune  (o  spend  in  hia  native 
country. 

The  fortifications  at  Sackett's  are  so  inconsidera- 
ble, that  one  is  equally  surprised  that  the  American 
government  should  have  left  their  naval  depdt  so 
inadequately  protected,  and  that  our  army  should 
have  failed  to  take  it.  An  American  naval  officer, 
who  obligingly  showed  us  through  the  navy  yard, 
related  by  what  singular  accident  the  place  waa 
saved  ^from  Sir  George  Prevosl's  attack;  an  anec- 
dote I  have  since  heard  confirmed,  from  a  variety  of 
sources.  The  garrison  consisted  almost  entirely  of 
militia,  under  General  Brown,  and  ran  away  on 
the  first  cannonade,  leaving  a  few  artillery-men  in 
the   fort,    who  w«i^e    preparing  to   abandon  it;  the 


I] 


\i  > 


.♦ 


WESTERN  COUNTRY  OP  NEW  YORK. 


lOl 


buildings  of  llie  navyyartl  were  already  on  fire. 
The  general  having  in  vain  atlemjited  to  stop  his 
panick-slrnck  soldiers,  crossed  (heir  flight,  at  the  end 
of  the  street  leading  towards  Brounville,  declaring, 
that  if  they  would  run,  (hey  should  not  run  towards 
home,  and  so  turned  them  otf  to  the  Oswego  road, 
which  runs  obliquely  in  the  direction  of  the  right 
flank  of  the  Britinh  forces,  as  they  had  landed  from 
Horse  island.  The  latter  perceiving  a  considerable 
force  moving  rapidly  in  this  direction,  concluded 
they  bad  been  falsely  inlbrmed  of  the  strength  of  the 
American  force,  and  actually  gave  up  the  attack, 
through  fear  of  being  cut  ofl'by  the  runaways.  On 
such  conlingences  depend  the  laurels  of  war. 

The  Government  of  the  United  States  not  only 
preaches,  but  practises  economy.  The  establish- 
ments at  Sackelt's  are  on  the  most  moderate  scale. 
Two  regiments  of  the  line,  with  a  proportion  of  ar- 
tillery, for  garrison  duty,  80  men  in  (he  navy-yard, 
and  one  boat,  the  Lady  of  the  Lake,  in  commission  : 
what  dreadful  havor.k  would  this  parsimonious  go- 
vernment make  at  Kingston  !^ 

The  road  from  Sacketl's  to  Watertown  Forks,  at 
about  three  miles  from  the  former,  leads  on  the  left 
to  Brownville,  a  thriving  little  village,  on  the  banks 
of  the  Black  ri\er,  about  five  miles  from  its  mouth. 
It  is  named  from  general  Brown,  wliose  property 
and  residence  are  here.  This  gentleman  was  one 
of  the  few  fortunate  American  generals  in  the  late 
war.  lie  was  not  bred  a  military  man,  but  suc- 
ceeded, from  the  command  of  the  militia  of  the  dis- 
trict, to  the  command  of  the  frontier  army  ;  I  be- 
lieve, chiefly,  because  the  United  Slates  government 
had  no  regular  general  at  hand,  to  take  the  situation. 
He  is  a  plain,  shrewd  man,  and  carried   this  charac- 


m 


li 


*  There  wore  in  rommiKsinn,  wlicn  I  was  there,  the  Itrf^rnt 
74,  .Montreal,  and  .star,  sloops  of  war,  and  Charvillr,  a  large, 
new  transport,  built  slnrc  the  war,  rupahle  of  transporting  the 
persons  and  property  of  almost  all  the  lake  population. 


■''^m^-.'f 


m 


108 


WESTERN    CODNTRT    OF    NEW    YORK. 


ter  into  bis  military  operations.  He  has  also  the 
merit  of  having  never  unnecessarily  aggravated  the 
calamities  of  war. 

From  Brownville  there  is  a  new  road  opened, 
across  the  head  of  Chaumont's  bay  to  Gravelly 
Point,  opposite  Wolfe's  island,  (about  fourteen 
miles.) 

From  Gravelly  Point  there  is  a  ferry  of  a  mile,, to 
the  island,  and    another,  of  three,   from  thence  to 
Kingston.     1  took  this    route,  in  company    with    a 
friend,  to  escape  a   tedious   passage  in   the  packet ; 
and  happening  to  laml   on    Wolfe's  island,  nearly  at 
Bun-set,  we  had  to  walk,  or  rather  wade  across   it, 
(for  'tis  wood  and  bog  from  beginning  to  end,  about 
seven  miles,)  in  the  dark ;  a  jaunt  1   would  recom- 
mend no  one  to  repeat,  without  good   reason,  at  the 
same  hour.     This  new  road  seems  intended  to  open 
the   Kingston   market  to  the  produce  of  the  fertile 
country  of  the  Black  river.     At  present  a  few  log- 
buts,  and  patches  of  burnt  timber,  are  the  only  marks 
cultivation  has  set  on   this  tract  of  country.     We 
passed  two  or  three  sportsmen,  -sitting   by  the  road- 
side, with   iheir  rifles,    watching  for  deer.     W^ater- 
town  is  an  elegant  village,"^  on  the  Black  river,  about 
four  miles  above  Brownville.     The  basis  of  the  soil 
is  limestone  ;  a  broad  rock  of  which,  several  acres 
in  extent,  divides    the  river,  just  at  the  town  ;  the 
right  branch,  after  breaking  into  several  smaller  falls, 
precipitates  itself  about   30  feet,  and   continues    its 
course  down  a  craggy  valley ;  a  paper  mill   stands 
on  the  left  branch,  which  descends  more  gradually. 
Large  masses   of  rock   strew  the  banks  below,  as  if 
severed   from  above    by   the   action  of   floods    and 
rains;  several  cedar  trees  have  been  left  so  near  the 
edge,  that  they  have  bent  down  for  want  of  support, 
and  continue  clinging,  with  their  roots  uppermost. 

*  The  Amerirans,  at  least  the  Yankies,  call   their  towni, 
Tillagei ;  applying  the  teruii  towoi  to  what  wecaHa  township. 


ii 


.i.r 


WDSTERN  COUNTRY  OF  NEW  YORK. 


109 


A  youth,  belonging  to  the  village,  conducted  me 
under  (he  banks,  towards  the  mill,  and  lesser  fall, 
to  an  amphitheutrical  range  of  natural  steps,  or 
benches  in  ihe  rock,  with  a  flat  ceiling  of  limestone, 
about  fit'leen  feet  in  breadth  ;  the  whole  of  it  abound- 
ing in  shells. 

On  the  island  are  numerous  fossil  impressions  of 
fish,  seemingly  of  the  eel  kind,  with  the  spines  in 
perfect  preservation.  Higher  up  the  river  is  a 
large  cotton  mill,  beyond  which,  the  banks  on  both 
sides  continue  to  rise  boldly,  thickly  cloathed  with 
maple,  beech,  and  elm,  whose  deep  shade,  waving 
over  the  narrow  stream,  may  probably  have  given  it 
its  name.  VVaferlown  contains  about  1*200  inhal)it- 
ants,  chiefly  emigrants  from  New  England.  'J'he 
bouses  are  generally  of  wood,  but  tastefully  finished  : 
brick,  however,  is  coming  fast  into  use  ;  and  begins 
every  where  to  prevail,  as  soon  as  experience  has 
pronounced  the  soil,  or  situation  of  a  township  to  be 
capable  of  any  considerable  improvement. 

Here  is  a  good  tavern,  which,  besides  the  acci- 
dental advantage  of  coming  after  the  Wapping  inns 
of  Sackett*s,  afliirded  us  the  rare  luxury  of  a  pri- 
vate sitting-room,  and  a  dinner  at  an  English,  that 
is,  at  our  own  hour.  We  found  the  church-}  nrd 
worth  a  walk,  not  for  the  elegance  of  its  monuments, 
or  classick  beauty  of  the  epitaphs,  but  for  its  pleas- 
ing  site,  on  a  rising  ground  beyond  the  villa;;e,  com- 
manding an  interesting  view  of  the  falls  and  course  of 
the  river.  It  is,  moreover,  neatly  kept ;  a  mark  of 
respect  to  its  silent  tenants,  too  frequently  nevlcclcd 
in  the  States.  Within  a  few  miles  of  Watrrtown 
the  country  rises  boldly,  presenting  a  reftesihiiig 
contrast  of  hill  and  valley,  to  Ihe  flat,  heavy  woods, 
through  which  we  had  been  labouring  from  Sarketl's. 
The  road,  turning  near  Denmark,  ascends  tlie  val- 
ley of  the  Black  River  by  its  left  bank.  The  bunks 
on  either  side  are  lofty,  presenting,  on  the  opposite 
shore,  unbroken  and  majestick  masses  of  forest :  on 


n 


I! 


no 


WESTEllN    COUNTRY    OF    NEW    YORK. 


(! 


r 


I  : 


the  western  side  the  soil  is  good,  and  coming  rapidly 
into  cultivation.  A  fe\v  pine  barrens  occasionally 
intervene,  upon  sand  mixed  with  blocks  of  talkous 
granite,  rounded,  and  scattered  down  the  water- 
courses. 

Indian  corn  seerns  the  slaple  grain,  as  it  generally 
is,  on  lands  newly  cleared,  but  altno«t  the  whole  of 
this  year's  crop  has  been  destroyed  by  July  and 
August  frosts.  On  the  28lh  of  August  there  was 
ice  at  Kingston  Mills,  jV  ^^  3»  '"ch  in  thickness, 
and  this  inclemency  was  general,  as  far  as  Carolina. 
Here  and  there,  I  observed  fields  that  had  escap- 
ed ;  and  sometimes  a  small  porlion  of  a  field  would 
be  untouched,  while  the  remainder  was  as  brown,  as 
if  scorched  by  fire.  On  examining  these  exceptions 
more  narrowly,  I  was  induced  to  believe,  they  were 
all  indebted,  for  their  escape,  to  a  situation  more 
or  less  protected  fro;n  the  N.  E.  winds,  which  by 
sweeping  over  deserts  of  ice,  and  forest,  from  the 
pole,  become  the  chief  agents  of  cold  through  the 
whole  continent.  The  inhabitants,  indeed,  seemed 
more  inclined  to  ascribe  these  escapes  to  the  proxi- 
mity of  streams,  which  had  mitigated  the  frost;  but 
frequently  the  bottom  of  a  field  had  suffered,  while 
the  slope  escaped:  A  valley  crop  was  sometimes  cut 
off,  and  a  hill-crop  uninjured.  Betwixt  Sacketl's 
and  Watertown,  1  observed  several  fields  sloping 
to  the  roid,  (thit  is  facing  nearly  south,)  with  a 
broad  belt  of  timlier,  on  the  crest  of  the  hills  be- 
hind them,  perfectly  green  and  flourishing,  while  the 
whole  valley,  fro  n  IMirtinsberg  to  Utica,  down 
which  the  road  forms  a  N.  W.  funnel,  or  wind 
course,  was  blighted,  except  where  occasional  angles, 
or  returns,  afforded  a  partial  shelter.  If  these  ob- 
servations should  be  correct,  it  would  seem  no  in- 
judicious precaution,  in  clearing  lands,  to  leave  a 
sufficient  belt  of  timber  to  shut  out  the  winds  most 
likely  to  prove  fatal ;  that  is,  the  N.  E.  and  N.  W. 


WEBTERiV    COUNTRY    OF    NEW    TOKK. 


Ill 


from  which  quarters   unseasonable  frosts  may  always 
be  expected. 

Utica  stands  on  the  ri;;ht  bank   of  the   Mohawk, 
over  which  it  is   approached   by    a   covered   wooden 
bridge,    of  aome    length.      The    appearance  of  the 
town   is  highly   prepossessing :   the   streets  are  spa- 
cious; the  houses  large  and  well-built,  and  the  stores 
(the  name  given  to  shops  throughout   America)*  as 
well  supplied,  and  as  handsomely  filled  up,  as  those 
of  New  York  or  Philadelphia. f     There   are   two  ho- 
tels, on  a  large  scale  ;  for   one   of  which,   the  York 
House,  I  can  answer,  as  being  equal  in    arrangement 
and  accommodation,  to  any   hotel  beyond  the    Allan- 
tick  :  it  is  kept  by  an  Englishman  from  Bath.     The 
number  of  inhabitants  is  reckoned  at  from  3  to  4000; 
they  maintain    four    churches — one    Episcopal,    one 
Presbyterian,  and   two   VVelcli.     To  judge  from  the 
contents    of   three    large   buok-slorcs,    I  heir   literary 
taste  inclines  chiefly    towards   theology   and  church 
history.     I  encountered  but   one   effusion  of  native 
genius,   in    the   shape    of   two    verses,   under    three 
grim  faces,  painted  on  a  tobacconist's  sign-board,  as 
follows : — 


iV 


f 


"  We  tliree  are  engag'd  in  oue  cause  ; 
"  1  snuffs,  I  smokes,  and  1  ciiaws." 

The  town  is  laid  out  upon  a  very  extensive  scale, 
of  which  a  small  part  only  is  yet  completed;  but 
little  doubt  is  entertained  by  the  inhaiiilanis,  that 
ten  venrs  will  .accomplish  the  whole.  Fillccn  have 
not  put^l  ^iiiice  the  traveller  found  here  no  other  trace 
of  habitation  than  a  solitary  log-house,  built  for  the 
occasional  reception  of  merchandise,  on  its  way  down 

'*'  May  not  tliis  term  be  traced  to  tlie  i>liip  stores  of  the 
early  colonists  ? 

t  1  should  compare  ttiem  with  onr  second  class  of  London 
ihops,  some  may  even  rank  with  the  first. 


m- 


112 


WiiSTERN    COUNTRY    OF    NEW    YORK. 


■4 


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fr,  i 


rii 


the  Mohawk.  The  overflowing  population  of  New- 
Eii;rlan(),  fixin;;  its  exertions  on  a  new,  and  fertile 
soil,  has,  in  these  few  years,  effected  this  change, 
and  ifoes  on,  wurkins;  the  miracles  of  industry  and 
freedom,  from  the    Mohawk  to  the  Missouri. 

Utica  has  ;;reat  advantages  of  situation,  indepen- 
dent of  its  soil,  being  placed  nearly  at  the  point  of 
junction  betwixt  the  waters  of  the  Likes  and  of  the 
Atlantick.  The  Moliawk  communicates  with  Wood 
Cre*  k,  by  a  canal,  from  Rome,  fifteen  miles  north 
of  Utica  ;  and  Wool  Creek  falls  into  the  Oneida 
Lake,  which  is  joined  to  that  of  Ontario,  by  the 
0-<»ego  river.  Should  the  proposed  canal  befwixt 
BnflTalo  and  Rome  be  cut,  it  will  add  very  considera- 
bly to  these  advantages,  by  drawing  much  of  the 
produce  of  the  Western  country  in  this  direction. 
The  expense  of  this  undertaking  is  variously  esti- 
mated at  from  6  to  10,000,000  dollars ;  and  the 
expense  of  carriage  at  about  six  dollars  per  ton. 
Commissioners  have  been  appointed  to  survey  the 
line  of  communicaiiou,  and  the  canal  ia  already  traced 
on  paper.  As  far,  however,  as  f  could  understand, 
the  route  of  the  St.  Lawrence  would  be  preferred, 
should  the  policy  of  our  Government  incline  to  give 
their  commerce  ingress  and  egress  on  moderate 
terms. 

With  Utica  commences  that  succession  of  flour- 
ishing villages,  and  settlements,  which  renders  this 
tract  of  country  the  astonishment  of  travellers.  That 
80  targe  a  portion  of  the  soil  should,  on  an  average 
period  of  less  than  twenty  years,  be  cleared,  brought 
into  cultivation,  and  have  a  large  population  settled 
on  it,  is  in  itself  sufficiently  surprising  ;  but  this 
feeling  is  considerably  increased,  when  we  consider 
the  character  of  elegant  opulence  with  which  it 
every  where  smiles  on  the  eye.  Each  village  teems, 
like  a  hive,  with  activity  and  enjoyment:  the  houses, 
taken  in  the  mass,  are  on  a  large  scale,  for  (except- 
ing the  few  primitive  log-huts  still  surviving)  there  is 


# 


WESTERN    COUNTRY    OF    NEW    YORK. 


113 


scarcely,  one,  below  the  appearance  of  an  opulent 
London  tradesman's  country  bux  ;  nor  is  tbeir  style 
of  building  very  unlike  these,  being  generally  of 
wood,  painted  while,  with  green  doors  and  shutters, 
and  porches,  or  verandas  in  front.  The  face  of  the 
country  is  beautifully  varied  ;  on  the  left  of  the 
road,  lofty  ridges  divide  the  Lake  streams  from  the 
head  waters  of  the  Chenango,  and  Orisfkany  rivers ; 
and  again,  shooting  up  towards  the  north,  form  the 
steep  banks  of  (he  Canserage  Creek,  and  the  wooded 
heights,  which  einbosuin  Onondago  Flollow.  The 
shores  of  the  small  lakes  are  picturesquely  formed 
in  the  same  manner,  and  a  succession  of  ridges  is 
thus  continued,  till  they  terminate  towards  Lake 
Ontario,  in  the  Niagara  heights,  and  mingle,  on  the 
south,  with  the  spurs  of  the  Aileganies,  round  the 
sources  of  the  Susqiiehanriah.  Tiie  timber  of  this 
country  is  mostly  oak,  elm,  ash,  maple,  hickory,  bass, 
hemlock,  and  butternut. 

Betwixt    Onondago    and    S^aneactas,    our    stage- 
parly,  which  had  consisted  of  several    honest   farm- 
ers,  received   an    addition,   in    the  person  of  a  little 
man  in  grey,    who  might    have  well    passed  for  what 
he  was,  a  barber,  had  he   not,  early  in   the  drive,  be- 
gun to  figure  in  the  character  of  an   apostle  ;  first  of 
all*  hy  pertinent   remarks  on  the   efficacy    of  the  in- 
ward light ;  and  secondly,  by  objurgating  the  coach- 
man  for  his  propbane  language,  who   revenged    him- 
self, not  only  by  sulky  expressions  of  disbelief  in  the 
apostolick    rights  of  his  reprover,  but  infinitely  more 
to  our  mortification,  by   considerably   slackening   hia 
pace,  as  if  to  afford  full  leisure  for  our  regeneration. 
To  console  us  under   this  misfortune,  and  as  we  now 
began  to  ascend  a  rather  long  hill,   the  barber,  taking 
off  his  hat,  and  turning  his  face  to  us,  said  ;  *' Gen- 
tlemen, if  you   have  no  objection  "  I'll  sing  you   a 
hymn ;  I    have    not  a   good    voice    for    it,   but    the 
hymn  is  a  very  fine  one,  and  will  shorten  the   hill." 
He  began  accordingly,  and  soon  induced  us  to   as- 

1.1 


I; 


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mw 


I '  •  I 


tHH 


WESTERN    COUNTRY   OF    NEW  YORK. 


sent  unanimously  to  the  first  part  of  his  proposition, 
relative  to  his  voice ;  the  second  seemed  by  no 
means  equally  convincing;  and  the  third  was  alto- 
gether so  dubious,  that  we  determined,  on  any  simi- 
lar occasion,  to  try  whether  a  hill  would  not  be  bet- 
ter shortened  by  walking,  than  singing,  up  it.  He 
had  visited  the  chief  town  of  the  Onondago  In- 
dians, in  this  neighbourhood,  and  described  them  as 
extremely  reserved,  averse  to  communication  with 
strangers,  and  clos^^  addicted  lo  their  old  forms  of 
worship.  •'  They  would  neither  receive  a  preacher," 
be  said,  "  nor  drink  spirits  ;"  facts,  which  he  seem- 
ed to  consider  equally  indicative  of  hardened  idola- 
try. 

Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  Notes,  quoting  different  enu- 
merations  of  the  Indian   tribes,   gives   the   last   esti- 
mate, (trom   Doilge,  in  1779,)  of  the  Onondagoes  at 
'230.     This  is  much  below  what   they  are  at   present 
reckoned  at,"*^  in  this  part  of  the  country. 

Skaneactas  is   pleasantly  situated   at   the  head  of 
the  lake  from  which  it  is  named.     We  stopped  here 
for  the  night,  and    admired,   by  a  clear  moon,  the 
sloping  banks,  descending  with  alternate  promonto- 
ries of  wood,  and  cultivated   land,  to  its   smooth  sil- 
very waters,  whilst  here  and  there  rose  the  tall  mast 
of  some  trading  schooner,  anchoring  under  the  shore. 
^      Cayuga,  besides  its  agreeable   site,   is  remarkable 
'for  a  bridge  over  the   head  of  the   Cayuga  lake,  a 
mile  in  length  :  it  is  built  on  piles,  and  level ;  calcu- 
/lating  from  the  time  it  took  to  pass  it,  I  should  think 
-it  rather  over-rated  at  a  mile  ;  three-fourths  is  proba- 
bly about  the  true  length.     Betwixt  Cayuga  and  Oe- 
"neva,    is   the   flourishing  little  village  of  Waterloo, 
born  and  christened  since  the  battle.     Geneva  con- 
tains many  eleg&nt  houses,  beautifully  placed  on  the 
rising  shore,  at  the  head  of  the  Geneva  lake  ;  a  situa- 

*  I  have  heard  the  Onoudagoes  estimated  at  1000. 


#, 


WESTERN  CODNTRT  OP  NEW  YORK. 


115 


tion  indicating  that   the  name  was  not  bestowed  at 
randuiR. 

From  Geneva  to  Canandaigua,  a  tract  of  bill  and 
rale  extends  for  16  miles,  with  only  two   houses.     I' 
neglected  to  observe  accurately,  or  enquire  whether 
the  soil  was  of  inferiour  quality  :  should  this  not   be 
the  case,  this  note  would  afford   a  traveller  of  m*26, 
an  exact  mean   of  estimating  the  growth  of  its  im- 
provement in  10  years.     Canandaigua  is  a   town  of 
villas,  built  on   the  rising  shore  of  the  Canandaigua. 
lake,  which  terminates  the  picture,  at    the   bottom  of 
the  main  street :  the  lower  part  of  this  street  is  occu- 
pied by   stores  and   warehouses,  but   the  upper,   to 
the  length  of  nearly  two  miles,   consists   of  villas,  or 
ornamented   cotiages,   tastefully  finished    with   colon* 
nades,  porchen,  and   verandas,   each    within   its  own 
garden,  or   pleasure  ground.      The   prospect   down 
this  long  vista  to  the  lake,  is  charming  ',  if  it  has  a, 
difecl,  not  to  the  eye,  but  to  the  mind,  it  arises  from 
a  consideration  of  the  perishable  materials  with  which 
these  elegant   buildings  are  constructed,  impressing 
an  idea  uf  instability,  like   pleasure  houses  raised  for 
an  occasional  festival.     A  fertile  soil,  and  industrious 
population,  are,  however,  bases  on  which  brick   will 
succeed  to  wood,  and  stone  to  brick. 

From  Canandiiigiia  we  turned  from  the  main  road 
nine  miles  S.  VV.  lo  visit  what  is  called  "  the  burning 
spring,'Mafely  discovered.  This  tract  of  country  it 
beautifully  un<lulating,  and  richly  cultivated  :  1  way 
particularly  pleased  with  the  style  of  its  clearing, 
being  neither  encumbered  with  heavy  masses  of  wood^ 
Dor,  like  most  newly  cleared  tracts,  stript  to  naked- 
ness, but  exhibiting  the  rich,  yet  light  studding  of 
timber  we  so  much  admire  in  many  English  counties. 
Perhaps  the  change  from  a  dusty  jolting  stage  to  an 
open  easy  waggon,  or  Dearborn,  as  they  are  called 
in  this  State, "^  disposed  us  lo  regard  the  landscape 
with  more  than  usual  complacency* 

*  Tile  body  and  carriage  resemble  a  small  waggon,  in  which 
a  seat  is  placed  for  two  persons,  on  wooden  springs.    Some- 


rm 


■v 


■■■V!^^''..mf 


116 


WESTERN  COUNTRY  OF  NEW  YORK. 


m  ^■ 


4 


Turning  a  little  from  the  road,  we  entered  a  small, 
but  thick  wood  of  pine  and  maple,  enclosed  within  a 
narrow  ravine,  the  sleep  sides  of  which,  compo»ied  of 
dark  clay-slaie,  rise  to  the  height  of  about  40  feet. 

Down  this  glen,  whose  width,  at  its  entrance,  may 
be  about  60  yards,  trickles  a  scanty  streamlet,  wan- 
dering from  side  to  side,  as  scattered  rorks,  or  fallen 
treew,  aflTord,  or  deny  it  passage.  We  had  advanced 
on  its  course  about  50  yards,  when  clor'e  nniler  the 
rocks  of  the  right  bank,  we  perceived  a  bright  red 
flame,. burning  briskly  on  its  waters.  Pieces  of  light- 
ed wood  being  applied  to  different  adjacent  spota,  a 
space  of  several  yards  was  immediately  in  a  blaze. 
Being  informed  by  our  guide,  that  a  repetition  of  this 
phenomenon  might  be  seen  higher  up  the  glen,  we 
scrambled  on,  for  about  100  yards,  and  directed  in 
some  degree  hy  a  strong  smell  of  sulphur,  applied 
our  match  to  several  places,  with  the  same  effect. 
The  rocky  banks  here  approach  so  closely,  as  to 
leave  little  more  than  a  course  to  the  stream,  whose 
stony  channel  formed  our  path :  sulphur  in  several 
places  oozed  from  them  abundantly.  We  advanced 
about  70  yards  further,  when  we  found  the  glen  ter- 
minate in  a  perpendicular  rock,  about  30  feet  high, 
overgrown  m*L  moss,  and  encumbered  with  fallen 
pine  trees,  through  which  the  drops,  at  this  dry  pe- 
riod of  the  season,  scarcely  trickled.  These  fires, 
we  were  told,  continue  burning  unceasingly,,  unless 
•xtinguished  by  accident.  The  phenomenon  was 
discovered  by  the  casual  rolling  of  some  lighted  em- 
bers from  the  top  of  the  bank,  while  it  was  clearing 
for  cultivation.  In  the  intensity  and  duration  of  the 
flame,  it  probably  exceeds  any  thing  of  the  kind  yet 
discovered  :  I  could,  however,  find  no  traces  of  a 
spring  on  its  whole  course :  the  water  on  which  the 

times  there  are  two  seats,  one  behind  the  other.  They  ob- 
tained the  name  of  Dearborn,  from  the  General's  taking  the 
field  in  one,  .. 


ki  1  \i 


^. 


•«  '  ''■^- 


^ 


WESTERW    COUNTRY    OF    NEW  YORK.  117 

first  fire  was  burning,  had  indeed  a  stagnant  appear- 
ance, and  probably  wasi  so,  from  the  failure  ut  the 
current  ;  but  it  had  no  pecidiar  taste  or  t;u>eil,  Was  of 
the  ordinary  temperature,  »n(i  but  a  frw  imheti  ^\^^*'[^ ;  a 
few  bubldes  indicated  the  paxxatrt;  of  the  inf1ckinaiiibie:)ir 
through  it :  on  applying  a  inatcii  to  (lie  adjacent  pail8cf 
the  dry  rock,  a  monienlai;^  flame  played  ul<>n^>  it  aho, 
Thene  circumstances  induced  iis  lu  consider  llu  bed 
of  the  streamlet,  as  accidentally  affordinv;  an  outlet 
to  the  inflammable  air  from  below,  and  the  wnier,  as 
in  some  degree  performing  the  part  of  a  candle-wick, 
by  preventing  its  immediate  dispersion  into  the  at- 
mosphere.* I  should  observe,  that  there  are  con* 
siderable  sulphur  springs  nine  miles  N.  W.  o(  Canan- 
daigua  ;  and  it  may  perhaps  be  worth  noticing,  that 
a  line  drawn  through  both,  would  strike,, in  a  S.  S.  W. 
direction,  the  warm  spring  near  Huntingdon,  in 
Pennsylvania;  the  Berkely  medicinal  waters  on  the 
Potomac,  and  thence,  following  the  course  of  the 
mountains,  S.  W.  the  hot  springs  of  Bath,  and  sul- 
phur springs  in  the  Allegany. 

Rochester  is  built  immediately  on  the  great  falls  of 
the  Genesee,  about  eight  miles  above  its  entrance  into 
Lake  Ontario.  It  is  four  years  since  the  yankey 
axeman  began  to  dispossess  the  wood  nymphs,  or  ra- 
ther the  wolves  and  bears,  of  this  neighbourhood  ; 
and  the  town  now  contains  100  good  houses,  fu  nish-  ^ 
ed  with  >all  the  conveniences  of  life  ;  se\eral  com- 
fortable taverns,  a  large  cotton-mill,  and  ^ome  large 
corn-mills.  Town  lots  fetch  from  500  to  1000  dol- 
lars, and  are  rising  in  value  rapiilly.  The  whole  vil- 
lage is  as  a  summer  hive,  full  of  life,  bustle,  and  acti- 
vity. Its  site  is  grand  :  the  Genesee  rushes  through 
it,  like  an  arrow,  over  a  bed  of  limestone,  and  preci- 
pitates itself  down  three  ledges  of  rock,  of  93,  30, 

*  Mr.  Jefferson,  in  his  Notes,  p.  51,  clescril)es  what  I  ima- 
gine to  be  a  similar  vapour,  near  the  junetioD  of  tlie  Elk  river 
with  the  great  Kauhawa. 


I'i, 


I 


f 


■''<e 


§ 


*    I 


a 


»».^^.i— 


118 


WESTERN    C0UNTR7    OF    VKW    TORK< 


H    :.■ 


I* 


f 


and  76  feet,  within  the  distance  of  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  (he  towh  :  the  two  first  ledges  are  of  limestone  ; 
the  basiii  of  the  third,  as  well  as  the  adjacent  banks, 
is  of  the  same   red   clay-slate,   which   eveiy   where 
forms  the  bed  of  the  St.  Lawrence.     This  lime-stone 
rid^e,  whicH  cannot  but  be  considered  as  a  continua- 
tion of  that  of  Nias^ara,  crosses  (he  river  therefore  at 
the  second,  and  then  striking  in  a  S.  E.  direction,  di- 
vides  the   tyaters  of  the  small   lakes  from   those  of 
Oneida    and    Ontario.     The    immediate    vicinity   of 
Rochester  is  still  an  imhroken  forest,  consisting  of 
oak,  hickory,  ash,  beech,  bass,  elm,  and  walnut :  there 
is  a  black  walnut  tree  betwixt  the  town  and  the  great 
fall,  twenty-four  feet  in  its  girth.     The  wild  tenants 
of   these    woods   have   nituraliy    retired    before   the 
sound   of   cultivation  :    there    are,    however,    a    few 
wolves  and  bears  Htill  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  one  of 
the  latter  lately  seized  a  pig  close  to  the  town.     Ra- 
coons,   porcupines,   squirrels,   black    and   grey,   and 
foxes,  are  9till  numerous.     The  hogs  have  done  good 
service  in  destroying  the  rattle  snakes,  which  are  al- 
ready becoming  rare.    Pigeons,  quails,  and  blackbirds 
iibound.     At  Rochester,  (he  line  of  settled  country 
in  (his  direction  terminates  ;  from  hence  to  Lewis- 
town  are  BO  miles  of  wilderness,  but  of  wilderness  big 
with  promise. 

The  (raveller,  haldng  on  the  verge  of  these  abori- 
gipal  shades,  is  inclined  (o  pause  in  (hough(,  and  re- 
consider the  interesting  scenes  through  which  he  h^s 
been  passing.  They  are  such  as  reason  must  ad- 
mire, for  (hey  are  the  result  of  in<lustry,  temperance, 
and  freedom,  directed  by  a  spirit  of  sound  knowledge, 
flowing  through  all  conditions  of  men,  and  giving  birth 
to  a  state  of  society,  in  which  (heir  is  neither  pover- 
ty, nor  oppression,  nor  complaining.  This  thought 
S leases,  in  a  world  so  full  of  wo  and  bitterness  ;  it 
oes  more,  it  thrills  exultingly  through  the  hear(  ;  and 
yet  I  fancied  8ome(hing  wanting: — it  was  the  mellow 
touching  of  (hat  great  artist  Time : — every  thing 


!  I  1  1^ 


>^ 


WESTERN    COUNTllT    OF    HEW    YORK. 


lit 


1^1 


wears  loo  much  the  gloss  of  newness. — Here  are  no 
memorials  of  the  past,  for  tlie  whole  country  is  o(  to- 
day ;  five,  ten,  or  at  the  utmost,  twenty  years  ago, 
where  are  now  corn-fields,  towns  and  villates,  was 
one  mass  of  forests  Certain  pains-taking  New-£n- 
glanders,  having  discovered  the  fertility  of  the  soil, 
sal  down  to  clear,  till,  settle,  and  improve  it,  and  are 
now  reaping  the  just  harvest  of  their  labours. — Ima- 
gination folds  her  wing  over  such  a  history,  and  we 
feel  with  Moore, 

•*  No  brigtit  remembrance  o'er  the  fancy  plays ; 
No  classifk  dream,  no  star  ot'otber  days, 
Has  left  tbat  visionary  glory  here. 
That  relirk  of  its  light  so  soft  and  dear, 
Which  gilds,  anti  hallotvs  e'en  the  rndext  scene, 
The  humblest  shed  where  genius  once  has  been.'* 

I  remember  visiting  the  convent  of  "  Our  Lady  of 
the  Rock,"  near  Cintra  in  Portugal.  It  was  founded 
by  Etnanuel,  to  commemorate  the  return  of  Vasco 
de  Gama.  For  three  centuries,  the  matin  hymn  had 
ascended  daily  from  its  mountain  pinnacle,  unmixed 
with  sound  of  earth,  when  the  ^tep  of  the  invader  si- 
lenced and  dispersed  the  ministers  of  its  altar.  There 
was  one  old  man  left ;  he  was  eighty  years  of  age,  and 
had  forsaken  the  world  at  the  period  of  the  great 
earthquake  of  Lisbon.  The  effects  of  a  moral  con- 
vulsion, more  <levastating  than  earthquakes,  had 
reached  him,  after  fifty  years  of  seclusion.  What 
remembrances,  what  reflections  crowded  within  the 
walls  of  this  little  monastery  i  My  feeble  conductor, 
as  he  glided  through  the  forsaken  cloister,  in  the 
while  hnbit  of  his  order,  seemed  like  an  embodied 
spirit  of  ilic  [n^it,  bearing  record  of  the  revolutions  of 
nature,  and  ol  empires. — But  to  proceed  through  the 
woods. 

The  road  from  Rochester  to  Lewistown  has  ob- 
tained the  appellation  of  the  Ridge  road,  from  the  cir- 
cumstance of  its  rimning,  generally,  on  the  secondary 


■  n 


'  ;'li  ii 


IN 


^! 


J-v. 


liS0 


WESTERN    COVNTRT    OF   NEW    YORK. 


) 


bank  of  Like  Ontario.  This  bank  is  a  gravelly 
riili^e,  »*el*loin  exceeding  15  feet  in  height,  and  is  ge- 
neiLiily  troin  five  <o  eight  miles  from  the  present  shore. 
Tvie  (ititnitive  liineatone  ridge,  forming  the  Niagara 
and  Gtjiiesee  falls,  runs  parallel  to  it,  but  further  from 
the  shore.  The  disposition  of  the  ground,  on  the 
C'liitdian  side  of  the  Si.  Lawrence,  is  exactly  simi- 
lar, tial  has  been  less  spoken  of,  because  inhabited 
bv  ,t  les-t  irKpiisitive,  and  speculating  race  of  people. 
S  xii'eu  niies  west  of  Rochester,  there  is  an  Irish 
settlt^'ueiit,  on  Sandy  Cieek  ;  iron  is  said  to  be  foimd 
there.  Tiie  average  viilue  of  land  is  fro/n.  10  to  15 
dolKiis  ail  acre,  and  rines  rapidly,  as  the  country  set- 
tles. One  thousand  fatnilies  of  settlers  crossed  Ro- 
che^er  bridge  in  30  days,  during  t-he  last  summer. 

T'le  soil  cannot  be  c:illed  first  rate,  being  general- 
ly sandv,  witK  a  mixture  of  gravel ;  it  however  pro- 
dii'^es  oak  ti  nber  in  great  abundance  :  a  tract  of  30  or 
40  miles  alon^  the  ridge  road,  is  called,  **  Oalc 
Orchard." — The  average  return  which  the  crops 
make  on  the  line  of  the  small'  lakes,  is  about  J.5  for 
on'?;  •'!  «>  U')  instances  it  exceeds  this  :  a  gentleman 
of  Booni^ld  town,  stated  the  return  of  part  of  his 
lands,  at  40  for  one  :  in  L  iwer  C  \n;ida  it  seldom  ex- 
ceeds six  or  seven.  Notwithstanding  the  bad  state 
of  the  road,  the  stage  waggon  runs  from  Rochester  to 
L^^wistown  in  two  days  :  this  journey  is  heavy 
enoutsh  ;  it  is  so  netines  necessary  to  alight,  and  walk 
several  miles,  or  suffer  a  dislocation  of  limbs,  in  jolt- 
ing over  causeways,  or  logged  roads,  forrned  of  pine, 
or  oak  trees  laid  crossways,  without  much  regard  to 
up.ifor  nitv  o^  size,  or  the  comfort  of  those  who  may 
have  to  trivel  over  them.  O  casionally  a  wild  deer 
starts  tro  n  the  brink  of  so  ne  overshadowed  creek, 
and,  at  different  intervals,  square  patches  seem  cut 
out  of  til;  forest,  in  the  centre  of  which  low  log-huts 
have  been  constructed,  without  aid  of  saw,  or  plane, 
and  surrounded  by  stumps  of  trees,  black  with  the 
6res,  kindled  for  the   purpose  of  clearing.     These 


•    « 


/     • 


r^*^« 


-#* « ,  1 


WESTERN    CODNTRJ    OF    NEW    YORK.  121 


fires  are  stiil  usually  burning,  in  some  quarter  round 
the  hoiise  ;  so  Ihut  Ihe  whole  f<e(llenienl,  belwixt  the 
remains  of  former  contlagrittions,  and  the  volumes  of 
blue  smoke,  still  curling  through  the  massive  woods, 
has  a  very  Cimmerian  aspect.  While  he  clears  hia 
land,  the  American  settler  seldom  neglects  to  make 
potash  :  two  men  will  make  a  ton  of  it  in  a  month  :  its 
average  value  may  be  reckoned  at  150  dollars:  so 
that  the  land  repays  him  (he  value  of  his  labour  at 
the  outset.  The  stages  meet,  and  put  up  tor  the 
night  at  a  log-hut,  dignified  with  the  name  of  an  inn, 
about  40  miles  fro^n  Rochester.  Our  accomiuoda- 
tions  were  of  the  lowest,  but  our  charges,  of  the 
his^hest  rate  ;  for,  as  our  host  sagaciously  observed, 
"  were  he  not  to  charge  high,  how  was  he  over  to 
build  a  better  house  ?"  By  this  rule  we  were  com- 
pelled to  contribute  to  posterity.  Lcwistown  was 
one  of  the  frontier  villages  burnt  duiing  the  war,  to 
retaliate  upon  Ihe  Americans  for  Ihe  destruction  of 
Newark.  It  has  been  since  rebuilt,  and  all  marks  of 
its  devastation  eflfaced.  It  is  agreeably  situated  at 
the  fool  of  (he  Li  neslone  Ridge,  on  the  steep  bank 
of  the  St.  Lawrence,  which  here  rushes  with  a  boil- 
ing, eddying  torrent,  from  the  Falls  to  Lake  Ontario. 
Lewialown,  notwithstanding  its  infancy,  and  remote 
situation,  contains  several  good  stores,  to  which  I  was 
obliged  to  have  recourse  for  some  trifling  articles, 
during  my  slay  at  Q,iieeHston,  on  the  Canadian  side ; 
particularly  for  a  pair  of  shoes,  when  1  accompanied 
a  friend  to  get  his  le^-pot  mended  ;  QueenKlon  afford- 
ing neither  tinker,  nor  shoemaker. 


!•- 


16 


:  1,1 


t 


A 


\,U-- 


E   122   j 


CHAPTER  XXI. 


NIAGARA   FRONTIER. 


FORT  GEORGE  TO  FORT  ERIE. 


Queenston  ...  7  Milei. 

Bridcewater,  or  Falls  of  Niagara  7 
ChippRwa  1  t-2 

Fort  Erie  ...  18 

33  1  '2 


FORT  GEORGE  TO  YORK,  BY  THE  OUTLET  OF 
BURLINGTON. 


'^1 


QufWDston 
St   D.ivid*8 
Twelve  Mile  Creek 
Twenty  ditto. 
Oct.  4,  Forty  ditto. 
Stony  Creek 
The  Outlet 
5,  Hopkin!<'  Inn 
1  welve  Mile  Creek 
Siiteen  ditto. 
Credit  River 
Etohico  River 
MocHco  River 
Huniber  River 
York 


7 

2 
12 

8 
10 
11 

7 

5 

4 

5  '  . 
8 

6 
4 
2 

6  1-2 


i 


07  1-2 


BY  ANCASTER  AND  DUNDAS. 


Stony  Creek  to  Ancaiter 

Dundai 

Bopkioi*!  Ion 


U 

4 
10 


AncBRter  to  the  Qraad  River,  tod  In- 
dian Scttl«menti.  18 


!»'-*'■**  A.. 


"*■  ' 


*»-  . 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


ISO 


HThe  peninsula  included  generally  betwixt  the  two 
Lakes  and  the  Niagara  river,  ol)lained,  during  the 
war,  and  still  keep;},  the  name  of  the  Niagara  Fron- 
tier. The  Case,  or  Grand  River,  the  banks  of  which 
are  inhabited  by  the  Six  Nations,  may  be  considered 
its  western  boundary,  and  Burlington  Bay  its  limit  to 
the  north.  Tlie  Lirnesitone  Hidge,  which  we  have 
observed  skirling  the  road  from  the  Falls  of  the  Ge- 
nesee, crosses  the  Niagara  at  Qiieenston,  and,  follow- 
ing the  direction  of  the  shores  of  Lake  Ontario,  as 
far  as  Ancaster,  divides  this  frontier  irregularly, 
nearly  from  east  to  west.  At  Ancaster  it  turns  in  the 
direction  of  the  Lake,  and  having  skirted  the  B  ly  of 
Burlington  with  a  magnificent  amphitheatre,  strikes 
eastward,  till  it  has  croitsed  the  Humber:  but  whe- 
ther it  afterwards  proceeds  in  the  direction  of  Kings- 
ton, or  bends  northwardly,  I  am  not  able  to  deter- 
mine ;  though  from  distant  views,  and  some  other  cir- 
cumstances, 1  am  inclined  to  believe  it  takes  the  for- 
mer course.  Its  height  may  be  averaged  generally 
at  from  '200  to  '250  feet :  it  is  every  where  very 
steep;  in  some  places  nearly  perpendicular;  and 
when  viewed  from  below,  being  covered  with  trees  to 
its  summit,  ceems  stretched  across  the  coimtry,  like 
a  magnificent  screen  of  verdure.  The  whole  frontier 
may  thus  be  considered  as  divided  info  two  plateaux  : 
the  upper,  on  a  level  with  Lake  Erie  ;  the  lower, 
sloping  from  the  foot  of  the  ridge  to  Lake  Ontario. 
There  is  a  marked  (Geological  distinction  betwixt  these 
two  tracts.  Immediately  below  (^ueenston  all  traces 
of  limestone  disappear.  The  river  banks,  which  are 
here  about  seventy  feet  in  height,  are  composed  of 
the  same  red  clay-slate  which  seems  generally  to  con- 
stitute the  bed  of  the  St.  Liiwrence,  from  hence 
downwards,  beyond  Quebec.  The  sides  of  the  dif- 
ferent creeks  round  the  head  of  the  lake,  from 
Queenston  to  York,  exhibit  similar  strata,  nor  does  a 
single  limestone  rock  appear  to  the  eastward  of  the 
Ridge ;  from  thence,  however,  to  Lake  £rio,  it  pre- 


it  I 


124 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


(Vm.. 


»   'S 


Hi 


.     -I 


dominates  almost  exclusively,  and  constitutes  the  ba- 
sis of  a  soil,  famous  (lirout^li  Canada  for  its  fertility. 
The  whole  of  this  frontier  h  distinguished  by  a  pe- 
culiar mildness  of  climate.  Voiney  observes,  (tom. 
i.  p.  13".)— 

••  A  Niagara,  bien  au  deaaus  de  Montreal,  les  neiges 
sont  de  deux  mois  encore  |ilu9  courtes  que  d»ns  cette 
ville  :  ce  qui  est  precisement  Ic  coniraire  de  la  regie  g6u€- 
rale  des  niveaux  ot>8ervee  sur  le  reste  de  la  cole." 

And  a^ain,  p.  166,  he  observes  the  great  increase 
of  cold  from  Like  Erie,  west ;  "so  that  in  the  neigh- 
bourhood of  Lake  St.  Clalr,  the  only  fruits  which 
will  ripen  are  apples  and  winter  pears;"  whereas  at 
Niagara,  peaches  are  raised  in  such  abundance  as  to 
be  the  common  food  for  hogs  during  the  autumn  ; 
capsicums,  melons,  and  all  sortM  of  gourds,  are  also 
abundantly  raided  in  the  open  ground. 

M.  Voiney  is  inclined  to  attribute  this  dilTerence 
of  climate,  to  the  greater  or  less  prevalence  of  the  S. 
and  S.  W.  winds,  which,  he  says,  become  less  fre- 
quent round  Lake  St.  Clair  :  but  in  addition  to  any 
general  reason  of  this  kind,  there  is  a  peculiar  circum- 
stance in  the  locale  of  this  frontier,  which  has  proba- 
bly a  more  direct  effect.  The  IS.  W.  wind,  as  has 
been  already  observed,  is  found  to  be  the  great 
agent  of  cold  through  nearly  the  whole  of  the  Ameri- 
can continent.  It  seems  no  less  certain  that  it  derives 
its  chilling  powers  from  the  unbounded  tract  of  fro- 
zen, uncultivated  country  over  which  i1  sweeps. 
Before,  however,  it  arrives  at  the  Niagara  frontier,  it 
has  past  diagonally  across  both  Lake  Superiour  and 
Lake  Huron,  and  must  therefore  have  lont  some  por- 
tion of  its  intense  cold  in  its  passage.  To  prove  the 
correctness  of  this  observation,  it  is  necessary  that 
the  difference  of  climate  should  be  co-extensive  with 
the  range  of  the  N.  W.  wind,  under  these  peculiar 
circumstances ;  and  this  seems  to  be  the  case.  A 
line  drawn  N.  W.  from  York,  wouhl  cross  the  nar- 
rowest extremity  of  Ijake  Huron,  and   sweep  the 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


125 


shore,  instead  of  crossing  the  expanse,  of  Lake  Supe- 
I'iour :  now  York  is  known  to  have  longer  and  severer 
wirilcrs  than  the  frontier,  (hough  hul  sixty  niih^s  N. 
VV^.  of  il.  In  like  manner,  a  tint  thawn  i\".  W  .  from 
Lake  St.  Clair,  would  fall  be_yoiin  Lake  Huron,  and 
cross  bni  a  small  portion  of  Liike  Snperiour ;  Ihe 
whole  country,  therefore,  from  this  lake  west,  niaj 
be  expected,  as  Volney  observes  to  be  the  case,  to 
feel  Hn  unmitigated  winter  :  the  favoured  portion  1}  ing 
betwixt  these  (wo  points,  on  both  siuts  o(  Lake 
Erie.*  Accordingly,  a  decided  prelerence  is  gi\tn, 
by  settlers,  (o  (his  neisihbourhood  :  on  our  side,  (lie 
banks  of  (he  Grand  Hiver  were  long  since  chosen  by 
the  Six  Nations  for  their  fertility  ;  anti  from  (hence  (o 
the  Thames,  «an«l  Loiii;  Point,  are  (he  finest  (arms  in 
the  province.  Tiie  whole  of  (he  American  siile  is 
rapidly  settling,  and  Erie,  built  on  (he  8i(e  of  the  old 
fort,  is  already  a  considerable  town. 

The  northern  point  of  the  frontier,  at  the  junction 
of  (he  Niagaraf  with  Lake  Onlario,  is  occupied  by 
Fort  Missisaga,  built  opposite  to  (be  American  Fort, 
Niagara,  which  it  is  tliought  to  command  :  il  is  star- 
shaped,  and  intended  to  be  faced  with  s(one,  should 
Ihe  expense  be  deemed  convenient.  From  hence  to 
Fort  George  there  is  about  a  mile  of  flat  ground, 
mostly  occupied  by  the  village  of  Newark,  which 
has  in  great  part  been  rebuilt.  The  houses  are  of 
wood,  and  being  generally  placed  on  frames,  wi(hout 
foundations,  seem  (o  give  a  stranger  no  more  reason 
to  expect  to  6nd  them  standing  when  he  next  travels 
that  way,  than  the  tents  of  an  Arab,  or  Ihe  booths  of 
an  annual  fair.  There  is  one  large  inn,  of  a  gay  ex- 
terior ;  but  being  commonly  crowded  with  guests,  is 
half  (inisbed,   half  furnished,  and   miserably   dirly  : 

♦  It  seems  probable  ttiat  tlie  whole  of  the  Genesee  country 
shares  iu  this  advantage. 

t  The  St.  Lawrence,  betwixt  the  two  lakes,  is  couiuonlj 
railed  the  Niagara. 


I 


'\  § 


i\] 


tf 


\-. 


\K 


i(^ 


"^ 


4 


y    i 


126 


NIAGARA    PR017TIBR. 


beds,  indeed,  are  in  no  more  than  comfortable  abun- 
dance ;  it  being  no  easy  matter  to  squeeze  betwixt 
each  two  of  tlie  dozen,  crowded  into  a  room. 

Betwixt  Newark  and  Qiieenston  the  river  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  road  by  a  light  wood,  through  which 
it  breaks  on  the  sight  at  intervals,  frequently  with  the 
top-sails  of  a  schooner  gli<iing  just  above  its  banks, 
and  the  tufted  woods  of  the  American  shore  beyond. 
On  the  right  there  is  an  unbroken  succession  of  luxu- 
riant orchards,  corn-fields,  and  farm-houses  ;  a  rare 
and  interesting  sight  in  Canada.  Qiieenston  is  built 
on  the  river's  edge,  at  the  foot  of  the  heights ;  it 
was  embosomed  in  peach  orchards  before  the  war, 
but  they  were  all  felled,  to  aid  our  defensive  opera- 
tions, so  that  the  vicinity  looks  bare  aiid  war-worn. 
The  heights  are  still  crowned  by  a  redoubt,  and  the 
remains  of  batteries,  raised  to  defend  the  passage  of 
the  river.  It  was  near  to  one  of  these,  the  gallant 
Sir  Isaac  Brocke  was  killed  on  the  13lh  of  October, 
1812,  while  with  400  men  he  gallantly  opposed  the 
landing  of  1500  Americans,  the  whole  of  whom  were 
afterwards  captured  by  General  Sheaflfe. — But  silence 
is  now  on  the  hill,  and  from  the  crumbling  field-work, 
the  stranger's  eye  dwells  with  admiration  on  the 
winding  course  of  the  Niagara  ;  the  rich  adjacent 
country  ;  the  opposite  fortresses  at  its  mouth ;  the 
blue  expanse  of  Lake  Ontario,  with  the  white  build- 
ings of  York  just  glimmering  on  the  horizon;  and 
beyond  them  a  continuation  of  the  same  heights  od 
which  he  stands,  fading  indistinctly  into  the  sky. 

At  Qiieenston  I  commenced  a  new,  and  infinitely 
more  convenient  mode  of  travelling,  viz.  in  my  own 
carriage ;  this  being  a  light  Jersey  waggon,  (a  ma- 
chine I  have  already  described,  by  the  name  of 
a  Dearborn,)  for  which  I  gave  at  second  band,  130 
dollars  ;  it  was  consequently  above  the  million  in  ap- 
pearance. My  steed,  a  hardy  Canadian,  bred  in  the 
neighbourhood,  cost  me  70  dollars  ;  and  with  such 


m 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


127 


preparation,  a  man  may  travel  comfortably  from  Pe- 
nobscot to  New  Orleans. 

It  was  a  fine  autumnal  morning,  (October  4,)  when 
I  put  my  equipage  in  motion  from  Qtieenaton,  towards 
York,  accompanied  by  a  friend,  and  a  favourite 
pointer.  Ttie  road  follows  the  line  of  the  heights, 
from  which  it  is  separated  by  an  open  meadow,  stud- 
ded with  clumps  of  trees,  over  many  of  which  the 
wild  vine  had  woven  natural  bowers,  but  its  graceful 
festooning  is  all  its  merit ;  for  the  grapes  are  small 
and  sour.  The  peculiarity  of  the  Genesee  road  is 
renewed  here,  or  rather  it  is  the  same  feature  con- 
tinued, and  runs  along  a  second  bank,  about  twenty 
feet  high,  which  follows  generally  the  direction  of 
the  ridge,  at  a  distance,  varying  from  a  quarter  of  a 
mile  to  a  league.  This  little  elevation  gives  a  pleas- 
ing view,  to  the  right  of  a  fertile  country,  newly  re- 
deemed from  the  forest,  while  the  steep,  and  some- 
times perpendicular  wall  of  limestone,  wooded  to  its 
summit,  magnificently  bars   the  prospect  on  the  left. 

Many  small  streams  descend  from  the  mountain  to 
the  lake,  and  where  they  have  worn  their  channel 
through  the  second  bank,  cause  pretty  sharp  dips  in 
the  road.  They  are  all  numerically,  and  vaguely 
enough,  named  by  their  once  reputed  distances  from 
Fort  George,  as  the  two,  four,  six,  eight,  ten,  twelve 
Mile  Creeks.  The  village  of  St.  David's  stands  on 
the  Four  Mile  Creek,  and  seems  retiring  into  a  nook 
of  the  mountain.  A  newspaper  is  printed  here,  and 
edited  with  ability  :  there  are  also  two  saddlers* 
shops,  at  one  of  which  I  purchased  a  neat  single 
harness  for  thirty  dollars,  when  1  set  up  my  equipage. 
There  are  several  miles  of  pine  forest  betwixt  St. 
David's  and  the  Twelve  Mile  Creek,  which,  though 
little  interesting  to  an  agriculturist,  are  not,  I  think, 
without  a  charm  for  the  traveller  whose  business  is 
merely  to  hunt  out  any  combination  of  forms  and 
colours,  in  which  either  eyes,  or  fancy  may  find  their 
account.     Its  smooth  brown  flooring  ;  straight  trunkS; 


M   1  i 


i  ,3 


1   !)    {(        , 


..,\ 


i,    ' 


'     A 


.1 


— y-— 


/ 


128 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


i: 


Mi 


li.  * 


f- 


'i 


I 


shootiii!;  up  like  eiuiiess  vistas  of  Gotbick  columns ; 
the  vaMltitiij  of  ilark  foliage  above  them;  the  univer- 
sal siiliiieiis,  and  even  the  i-e:!iiiioua  fragrance,  so  pow- 
erful oil  a  i)o!  day,  cotnbitie  lo  produce  in  the  mind 
a  solemn,  otid  aliuost  religious  feeling.  "  Ilia  proce- 
ritfis  sylvae,  el  secrelum  loci,  et  admiratio  uuibrse, 
fidem  nuaiinis  facit.''  There  is  a  scattered  hajnlet 
and  courJ-hoiise  round  the  steep  banks  of  the  Twelve 
Mile  Creek;  we  stopped  (o  bait  our  sleetl  and  stives 
a  few  miles  beyond,  at  a  solitary  log  hut  in  the  cen- 
tre of  a  forest  ;  where,  besides  oats,  we  foimti  evcel- 
lent  spruce  beer  made  on  the  spot,  and  gin^ej bread 
cakes,  as  the  sign  specified,  being  underwritten, 
*•  Cakes  and  Beer."  VVe  arrived  at  the  Forty  Mde 
Creek  in  the  dusk  of  the  evening;  the  principal 
tavern  was  full,  so  we  went  lo  the  second,  where  we 
were  somewhat  crossly  received  by  an  old  Irish  land- 
lady ;  luckily,  however,  she  recovered  hei  good  tem^ 
per  on  perceiving  us  lo  be  English  officers,  a  species 
of  animal  she  had  learnt,  during  the  war,  to  treat 
wilh  civility  :  her  son  had  served  in  the  militia,  in 
token  of  which  he  was  most  obstreperously  loyal, 
both  in  speech  and  song,  during  the.  whole  evening. 
A  fowl  was  speedily  consigned  from  its  slumbers  to 
the  pot,  and  served  up,  with  the  et-ceteras  of  the  tea- 
table.  The  little  room,  or  r.t'jcr  closet,  in  which 
we  supped,  contained  a  bed  for  one  of  us  ;  the  other 
was  to  sleep  in  the  chamber  above :  an  inspection, 
however,  of  the  family  loft  so  termed,  induced  me 
to  alter  this  arrangement,  by  having  my  bed  made 
up  in  the  closet,  which  just  held  the  twn,  and  stand- 
ing room  betwixt  them.  I  was  also  forced  to  make 
another  infringement  on  the  customs  of  the  house, 
by  requesting  an  additional  sheet  to  the  one,  usually 
deemed  sufficient.  My  friend  walked  out  before 
breaktast,  and  shot,  immediately  round  the  house, 
several  quail,  a  brace  of  woodcocks,  and  a  partriJee. 
The  quails  frequent  the  buck-wheat,  at  this  seasoD) 
in  great  numbers ;  we  frequeatJy  saw  bevies  of  them 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


]2» 


V 


by  the  road  side.  Tiie  American  woodcock  is  small- 
er than  ours  ;  ils  breast  and  belly  are  of  a  dirty  ish 
piiik.  Tlie  partridge  is  more  properly  a  species  of 
pheasant,  very  nearly  lesenibiing  our  hen-pheasant, 
both  in  size  and  piuinage,  and  is  seldom  found  but 
in  woods.  On  setlin;;  oii'  to  continue  our  journey, 
we  took  the  pointer  into  tlie  waggon,  upon  which  our 
host  exriaimed  "  I'll  be  luuijieii,  if  you  Englishmen 
are  not  fonder  of  your  dogs  tium  of  your  wives;" — 
nor  wonid  this  be  any  misplaced  degree  of  aileclion, 
were  we  all  wived  like  mine  host.  The  road  contin- 
ues to  Stony  Creek,  following,  as  before,  the  direc- 
tion of  the  heigiits,  with  little  diversity  of  landscape, 
except  such  as  arises  from  their  occasional  windings, 
and  tlarkly-wooded  recesses.  At  Stony  Creek  it 
breaks  otF  to  the  right,  low<<rds  the  lake,  and  ap- 
proaches the  outlet  of  Bnriington-bay  by  a  long  neck 
of  flat  deep  sand,  thinly  covered  with  coarse  grass, 
and  a  few  bushes  and  dwarf  oaks.  There  is  a  pleas- 
ing view  from  the  bridge,  up  the  bay  to  Burlington, 
which  is  built  on  an  elevated  peninsula:  beyond  it 
lies  another  sm^dl  lake,  aptly  denotninated  '*  Coot's 
Paradise,"  from  which  the  land  rises  to  the  ridge, 
whose  bold  sweeping  line  encloses,  with  an  amphi- 
theatre of  woods,  the  little  village  of  Dnndas,  and  all 
the  country  in  that  direction.  We  stopped  to  bait 
at  a  tavern  of  a  substantial  appearance,  near  the 
bridge,  and  looking  to  Lake  Ontario.  Our  host, 
whose  portly  figure  reflected  no  disgrace  on  the  ap- 
pearance of  his  house,  received  us  with  bustling 
importance.  ♦'  What  could  we  liave  to  eat  ?" — 
"  Whatever  you  please,"  was  the  reply,  he  had 
every  thing  in  the  house — "Well  tJien  a  veal  cutlet, 
as  we  are  in  haste."  He  went  in,  and  presently  re- 
turned, protesting  his  wife  was  quite  out  of  humour 
at  our  thinking  of  veal  cutlets,  when  the  veal  had 
been  killed  a  fortnight. — "  Well  then,  we  are  not 
particular,  a  pork  chop  will  do" — but  the  pork  chop 
only  increased  the  storm. — "  How  could  we  expect 


t 

Ml 


% 


.VV''*-'*^- 


,o'--*.^ ,-  •* 


^>rt' 


130 


IflAOARA    FRONTIER. 


a  pork  chop  when  Ihe  pork  was  all  salted  ?" — "  Bodj 
of  us,  mine  host,"  then  said  {y  in  the  feelings  of 
Sancho  Panza  under  similar  vexations,  "  what  caa 
we  have  ?" — Why  we  could  have  bread  and  cheese, 
or  butter,  if  we  preferred  it;  and  bread  and  butter 
it  was,  seasoned  however  by  Bonniface's  eulogium 
on  his  own  generosity  in  keeping  a  tavern,  which  he 
did,  (he  said,)  not  for  the  sake  of  profit,  but  because 
his  feelings  would  not  suffer  him  to  send  4ravellers 
from  his  door,  albeit  his  wife  was  much  vexed  at 
this  benevolence. 

A  little  way  from  this  tavern  stands  the  house  built 
by  our  government  for  the  Mohawk  chief,  Brandt, 
in  recompense  of  his  services  during  the  American 
war.  It  is  a  large  sash-windowed  house,  opposite  to 
the  lake,  and  supcriour  in  appearance  to  most  houses 
in  the  Province.  His  wife  was  living  in  it  at  this 
time,  but  his  son,  with  whom  I  had  become  acquaint- 
ed at  Kingston,  was  at  York.  He  is  a  fine  young 
man,  of  gentlemanly  manners,  and  appearance^  speaks 
and  writes  English  agreeably  and  correctly,  and 
dresses  in  the  Engli'sh  fashion,  retaining  only  the 
mocassins  of  his  Indian  habit.  He  served  during 
the  war,  among  his  own  people,  with  the  rank  and 
pay  of  a  Lieutenant,  which  he  still  holds. 

It  took  us  three  hours  to  accomplish  the  five  miles 
of  riad,  betwixf  ihe  head  of  the  lake  and  the  main 
road,  called  Duiidas-street,  which  runs  from  York 
towards  Lake  Erie,  and  Amherstsberg.  We  halted 
for  the  night  at  Hopkins's  inn,  where  we  found  all 
the  cleanliness  and  comfort  a  traveller  can  desire, 
with  the  alloy  of  but  one  little  accident.  Our  game 
was  to  be  cooked  for  supper ;  a  thought  flashed  us 
like  lightning,  while  the  preparations  were  going  on 
in  an  outer  room  ;  my  friend  rushed  out,  it  was  too 
late;  the  sacrilege  had  been  committed;  the  wood- 
cocks had  been  profanely  gutted,  and  were  tossed 
ignobly,  to  be  stewed  in  a  common  pot  with  the  other 
birds :  their  excelleuce,  however,  though  thus  bar- 


1^ 


« 


■  * ,  • 
t 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


131 


barously  degraded,  could  not  be  extinguished,  and 
our  appetitrs  paid  a  just  tribute  to  merit  iu  disguise. 

The  face  of  the  country,  from  the  head  of  the 
lake  to  York,  is  less  varied  than  that  of  the  Niagara 
frontier.  The  thread  of  settlements  is  slender,  and 
frequently  interrupted  by  long  tracts  of  hemlock- 
swamp,  and  pine  barrens.  The  banks  of  the  several 
stieams  which  descend  lo  the  lake,  are,  like  those  of 
the  frontier,  bold  and  steep,  exhibiting  strata  of 
crumbling  red  clay -slate.  The  river  Credit  is  an 
Indian  reserve,  well  stocked  with  salmon  :  we  found 
a  family  encamped  on  its  banks,  drying  fish. 

There  is  a  good  bridge  over  the  rocky  bed  of  the 
Humber,  and  large  mills  near  it.  The  surface  of 
the  whole  country  seems  flat ;  1  did  not  observe  a 
single  hill,  or  inequality,  but  such  as  have  been  evi- 
dently formed  by  streams,  descending  over  a  soil 
little  tenacious  ;  and  as  the  banks  of  all  these  are 
very  lofty,  there  is  probably  a  considerable,  though 
gradual,  slope  of  the  whole  country  down  lo  the  lake, 
the  shores  of  which  have  no  elevation  worthy  of  notice. 
From  the  Humber  to  York  is  a  uniform  tract  of 
sandy  pine-barren,  unsusceptible  of  culture  ;  a  change 
of  feature,  probably  connected  with  the  ancient  his- 
tory and  revolutions  of  the  lake. 

York  being  the  seat  of  government  for  the  upper 
province,  is  a  place  of  considerable  importance  in 
the  eyes  of  its  inhabitants ;  to  a  stranger,  however, 
it  presents  little  more  than  about  100  wooden  houses, 
several  of  them  conveniently,  and  even  elegantly 
built,  and  I  think  one,  or  perhaps  two,  of  brick. 
The  publick  buildings  were  destroyed  by  the  Ameri- 
cans ;  but  as  no  ruins  of  them  are  visible,  we  must 
conclude,  either,  that  the  destruction  exceeded  the 
desolation  of  Jerusalem,  or  that  the  loss  to  the  arts 
is  not  quite  irreparable.  I  believe  they  did  not  leave 
one  stone  upon  another,  for  they  did  not  find  one. 
Before  the  city,  a  long  flat  tongue  of  land  runs  into  the 
lake,   called    Gibraltar   Point,  probably   from   being 


•I 

h 


\ 


'^'  ■ 


!■ 


, ,  ( 


132 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


very  unlike  GibiaUar.  York  wholly  useless,  eilber 
as  a  port,  or  milifary  post,  would  sink  info  a  village, 
and  the  seat  of  governinenf  be  transferred  to  Kini;;s- 
ton,  but  for  the  influence  of  those,  whose  pro- 
perty in  the  place  would  be  depreciated  by  the 
change. 

My  friend  having  returned  to  Queenston  by  water, 
I  left  York  with  no  companion  but  my  dog,  frequ»'nl- 
ly  repeating,  as  uiy  wain  dragged  hea\ily  over  the 
logged  roads,  which  cross  the  swauipy  woods  round 
the  iVlocaco  and  Etobico,  the  verses  of  Pelrarca : 

"  Solo  e  pen'oso  i  piil  decerti  Cainpi 
"  Vo  iniMiiando  ft  passi  taidi,  e  lenli." 

Nothing  looks  less  cheerfid  than  the  hut  of  a  pri- 
mitive settler,  especially  when  isolated  in  the  mass  of 
a  dark  heavy  forest  ;  yet  it  is  the  first  glance  only 
which  is  unpleasant,  the  second  shews  present  com- 
fort, and  progressional  improvement.  1  do  not  re- 
member to  have  seen  one  of  them  abandoned,  except 
for  a  better  house  :  there  are  more  ruined  cottages  in 
the  vicinity  of  Cork,  than  in  all  North  America. 

A  few  miles  beyond  Hopkins's  inn,  the  road  as- 
cends the  HmeHtcme  ridge,  and  sometimes  runs  so 
near  the  edge  of  it,  that  by  stepping  aside  a  few 
yards,  the  traveller  perceives  the  level  country  he 
is  traversing  to  be  a  terrace,  about  300  feet  above 
the  level  of  the  lake.  I  descended  by  a  road,  so 
precipitouH,  as  nearly  to  resemble,  at  its  summit,  an 
irregular  flight  of  steps,  to  the  village  of  Dundng, 
enclosed  within  the  rich  woods  and  anglc;8  of  the 
heights  :  in  fact,  its  territory  is  so  much  contracted 
by  them,  that  it  will  admit  of  little  increase  of  popu- 
lation ;  and  there  is  about  it  a  stagnant  aspect,  very 
unlike  that  of  its  neighbour  Ancaster.  To  reach 
Ancaster,  the  ridge,  or  mountain,  as  it  is  called  here, 
must  **  with  toilsome  march*'  be  again  ascended.  A 
itreain  gushing  from  the  rocks  above,  turns  several 


h 


# 


NIAGARA    FRONTIER. 


133 


mills  by  the  roadside,  and  forms  a  pleasing  cascade 
in  (be  jrlen  near  its  fuuntain.  H:i\ing  nionnled  the 
hei'iht,  and  entered  the  village,  I  nas  ajireeably  sur- 
prised tu  Hnd  a  tavern,  superiuur  both  in  size  and  ap- 
p"ar;uire  to  any  thing  I  bad  expected  in  a  \illage  so 
re.'ijdle  from  any  great  line  of  travelling.  On  cal'ing 
for  the  osiler,  i  was  quietly  answered,  ••  l»e  would 
cocio  as  soun  as  he  had  taken  his  tea  ;"  so  I  inanag- 
e«l  (or  myself;  not  caring,  after  a  fatiguing  dav's 
joi.rnp\,  that  my  horse  shoidd  wait  his  independent 
lei>nre,  and  (he  uncertain  close  of  a  lea-table  con- 
versiition.  •  - 

Tl'f  landlady,  a  very  obliging  woman,  apolofjlzed 
aftei  v^.id^  for  this  inattention,  on  the  giound  ot  the 
inipossibdity  of  procuring  good  servants  ;  and  I  men- 
tion this  incident,  one  of  many  similar,  to  shew  that 
this  free  and  easy  behaviour  of  the  lower  clasijcs, 
which  English  travellers  so  frequently  complain  of 
in  the  States,  and  attribute  to  their  R«-publiciin  prin- 
ciples, is  common  enough  under  our  own  Govern- 
ment, whenever  the  supply  of  labour  is  dispropor- 
tionate to  (he  demand  for  it. 

Ancaster  has  a  smiling  aspect :  new  shops  and 
houses,  sjperiour  in  size,  and  architecture,  to  the  old, 
are  building  rapidly.  Its  site  is  picturesquely  grand, 
and  the  neighbourhood  thickly  spread  wi(h  improving 
farms.  Ancaster  merits  to  be  the  metropolis  of 
Upper  Canada. 

A  gendemnn,  to  whom  young  Brandt  had  given 
me  a  letter  of  introduction,  having  some  friend  travel- 
ling towards  the  Grand  River,  I  set*  ofl,  the  next 
morning  after  my  arrival,  for  the  Indian  settlements. 


.  V 


« 


'A 


'^« 


•  If 


[  134  J 


CHAPTER   XXII. 


INDIANS  OF  THE  GRAND  RIVER. 


r  ' 


m. 


.  i 


The  powerful  Indian  confederacy,  known  by  Ihe 
name  of  iVI.issawooirucs,  or  Five  Nations,  oriuitially 
occi:pied  the  whole  of  the  country  betwixt  the  lakes, 
and  the  Allegany  ridges,  from  the  sources  of  the 
Ohio  to  the  banks  of  the  HudKon.  They  were 
known,  and  dreaded  by  the  French  Canadians,  under 
the  name  of  Iroquois.  "  Each  village,  or  canton," 
writes  Lahontan,  in  16U  I,  "  contains  14,000  soids,  of 
whom  1500  bear  arms."  I41  l7l'i,  they  received  the 
Tuscaroras  into  their  confederacy,  and  made  them 
the  sixth  nation.  "  All  the  confederated  tribes," 
says  Morse,  "  except  the  Oneidas,  and  Tusca- 
roras, sided  with  the  British  in  the  late  war,  and 
fought  against  the  Americans."  In  1779  tiiey  were 
attacked  by  general  Sullivan,  and  driven  to  Niagara ; 
their  numbers  were  at  this  time  estimated  by  Dodge 
at  1580.  At  Niagara,  many  of  them  died,  *<  from 
being  obliged,"  saya  Morse,  "  to  live  on  salted  pro- 
visons."  The  remainder  had  the  lands  round  the 
Orand  River  assigned  them  for  their  support,  by  our 
government,  where  they  have  since  resided,  with 
the  Datawares  and  Missisagafi,  joint  suflferers  in  the 
same  cause;  the  latter  of  whom  have  given  their 
name  to  the  new  fort  opposite  to  Fort  Niagara.  It 
is  probable,  however,  trom  the  villages  of  the  Six 
Nations  still  to  be  found  within  the  territory  of  the 
Blate  of  New  York,  that,  besides,  the  Oneidas  and 
Tuscaroras,  portions  of  the  other  four  tribes,  in  op- 


n 


.'«k' 


rf    \ 


INDIANS    OF    THE    GRAND    RITER. 


136 


position  to  the  general  disposition  of  their  nation,  at- 
tached themselves  to  llie  American  cause  :  a  species 
of  national  disunion,  resulting  from  an  excess  of  in- 
dividtial  freedom,  which  has,  on  ever}  occasion  of 
hostilities,  whetted  the  tomahawk  of  kindred  war- 
riours,  for  the  destruction  of  their  own  clan. 

The    Mohauks    have  always  been  esteemed   the 
head  of  the   confederacy.     They    were   strongly  at- 
tached to  the  British  interest,   and  first   followed  Sir 
William  Johnson  in)o  Canada,  under  their   chieftain, 
"  the  Monster  Brandt."     The  Monwter  had,  however, 
some  good  qualities.     He  accustomed  his   people   tu 
the  arts  of  civilized  lil'e,  and  made   farmers   of  them. 
He  built  a  church,  and  translated  one  of  (he  Gospels 
into    the    Mohawk    language ;    for,   like   Clovis,   and 
many  ot'  the  early  Anglo-Saxon,   and   Danish   Chris- 
tians, he  contrived  to  unite    much  religious  zeal    with 
the   practices  of  natural   ferocity.      His   grave   is   to 
be  seen  under  the  walls  of  his  church.     1  have  men- 
tioned one  of  his  sons  :  he  has  also  a  daui<,hii  r  living, 
who    would    not    disgrace  the    circles  of    Eurrpenn 
fashion  :   her  face,  and  person  are  fine   and   uracel'ul : 
she  speaks  English,  not  only  correctly,  but  elegi  ntly  ; 
and  has,  both  in  her  speech  and  manners,  a   softness 
approaching  tu  Orientai  languor  :  she  retains  so  much 
of  her    national   d  ess   as   to   identify    her  with   her 
people,  over   whom   she  atfectfl  no  supciioriiy,  but 
seema  pleased  to  preser\e  all  the   ties,  and   duties  of 
relationship.     She  held  the  infant  of  one  of  her  re- 
liitinps  at  the  font,  on  the  Sunday  of  uiy  visit   to  ihe 
church,     'i'hc  usual  church,   and   baptismal   service 
was  performed  by  u   Dr.  Aaron,  an  Indian,   and   an 
assistant  priest  ;  the  congregation   consisted  of  60  or 
70  persons,  male  and   female  :  many   of  the  young 
men  were  dressed  in  the  English  fashion,  but  several 
of  the  old  warriours  cumc  with  their  blankets,  folded 
over    them,    like    the   drapery    of   a  statue  ,  and    in 
this  dress,   with   a  step  and   n  ein   of  qutrt  erergy, 
>  more  forcibly  reminded  me  of  the  ancient  Romans 


I'l 


m 


.t    I 


,  71 


I  i 


-■   ♦- 


»-*' 


me 


INDIANS    OK    THE    GRAND    KIVER. 


V 


than  some  other  inhabitants  of  tlijg  continent,  who 
have  laid  claim  to  the  resemblance.  Some  of  Ihern 
wore  lar^e  silver  crosses,  medals,  and  other  trinkets, 
on  tlieir  backs  and  breasts  ;  and  a  few  had  bandeaus, 
orna.iiented  with  feathers.  Dr.  Aaron,  a  grey-head- 
ed Mohawk,  had  touched  his  cheeks  anct  forehead 
with  a  few  (tpots  of  vermillion,  in  honour  of  Sunday  : 
he  wore  a  surplice,  and  preached  at  considerable. 
Iens;th ;  but  his  delivery  was  uniinpassioned,  and 
mono'onoiis  in  the  extreme.  Indian  elocpience  de- 
cays with  the  peculiar  state  of  society  to  which  it 
owed  its  energy. 

The  IM  (hawk  villaa;e  stands  on  a  liltle  plain,  look- 
ins;  down  upon  the  Grand  riv«r  ;  upon  the  alluvion 
of  which  the  inhabitants  raise  their  crops,  chiefly  of 
Indian  corn.  Their  houses  are  built  of  logs,  rudely 
put  together,  and  exhibiting  externally  a  great  ap- 
pearance of  neglect,  and  want  of  comfort.  Some  few 
are  in  a  better  condition :  the  house  belonging  to 
Brandt's  family  resembles  that  of  a  petty  English 
farmer;  Dr.  Aaron's  was  neat  and  clean.  The  Doc- 
tor, who  had  been  regularly  ordained,  and  spoke  very 
good  English,  told  me  the  village  had  been  injured 
much  by  the  war,  which  had  put  a  stop  to  its  im- 
provements, and  dispersed  the  inhabitants  over  the 
country.  .  This  is  probable  enough  :  the  Indians  ad- 
vance towards  civilized  life  with  a  forced  motion, 
and  revert  to  habits  of  warfare,  and  wandering,  with 
a  natural  rebound.  The  Cayugas  seem  to  have 
made  less  progresa  than  the  Mohawks,  towards  do- 
mestick  accommodation  :  the  fire  is  still  in  the  middle 
of  their  dwellings  :  the  earth,  or  a  block  of  wood,  suffi- 
ces for  chair  and  table  ;  and  planks,  arranged  round 
the  walls,  like  cabin  births,  form  their  beds.  They 
seemed  very  cheerful,  though  with  little  reason;  for 
their  crop  of  Indian  corn,  which  they  were  now 
drying  and  husking,  ha«i  been  spoiled  by  premature 
frost,  and  in  comumn  with  all  the  other  Indians  of 
the  settlement,  their  only  resource   against  starva- 


-  A 


.--^-A  --- <r 


ItfDIANS    or    THB    GRAND    RIVER. 


isr 


lent,  who 
e  of  Ibern 
ir  tririkels, 
brtiuleaus, 
i,iey-li0iitl- 
I'oiehead 
f  Sunday  : 
msiderable 
oned,   and 
|uence    de- 
o   which  it 

)lain,  look- 
le   alluvion 
,  chiefly  of 
igs,   rudely 
2;reat   ap- 
Some  few 
elon^ing  to 
;ty   Ensslish 
The  Doc- 
ispoke  very 
en  injured 
to  it8  im- 
over  the 
Indians  ad- 
]ed  motion, 
fine:,  with 
to   have 
wards   do- 
lt he  middle 
ood,  suffi- 
iged  round 
Is.     They 
eason ;  for 
were  now 
premature 
Indians  of 
ist  starva- 


tion, was  the  Britit»b  Commissariat.  They  confine 
themselves  lo  the  cultivation  of  Indian  corn,  because 
it  requires  little  labour,  and  of  that  sort  which  may 
be  perloKiied  by  women  ;  the  consequence  is,  that 
a  single  Irosly  night  strikes  them  with  famine,  or  at 
least  throws  them  for  support  upon  the  magazine  of 
Kuigslon.  The  evil  and  remedy  proceed  from  the 
Same  source  :  an  habitual  dependance  on  our  bounty 
destroys,  by  rendering  needless,  all  exertion  towards 
self-support.  Bui  from  the  system  of  Indian  tutelage 
results  the  necessity  of  guardianship,  that  is,  of  the 
Indian  department,  through  which  some  thousands 
of  the  publick  money  are  annually  filtered  :  a  plentiful 
harvest  on  the  Giand  River  would  destroy  golden 
crops  of  place  and  patronage. 

I  had  iitlle  opportunity  of  observing  their  manners 
and  character.     It   may   be   conjectured    that    Euro- 
pean   intercourse    is  fast  obliterating  the  character- 
isiick  features  of  their  former  social  system.     Their 
increased    knowledge    of  our    arts    and  ^enjoymentSi 
has  been   probably    followed   by    a  proportionate   in- 
crease   of    wants,    and    desires,    and    these,    by    the 
usual  accession  of  their  concomitant  passions.     It  is 
likely  I  hey  are  less  brave,   less  temperate,   less  saga- 
cious, and  less  ardent  in  their  social   affections,   than 
their  woodland  ancestors  ;  but  also  less  cruel  and  re- 
vengefid,  more  selfish,   and   more   religious.      In   the 
vicinity  of  their  settlements  they  have  the  character 
of  being  inoffensive  neighbours,  and  of  living  peacea- 
bly among   themselves,   except   when   under   the  oc- 
casional   influence    of   intoxication.     Their  manners 
seemed  to  me  remarkable  for  nothing  so  much  as  for 
that  quiet  seli-poHsession,    which   constitutes   the  re- 
verse of  vulgarity.     Their  women,  before  strangers, 
are  extremely  timid  :  most  of  those  who  lived  at  any 
distance  from  the  church,  came  mounted,  with   their 
husbands  walking  by  their  sides  ;  a  sympton:,    per- 
haps, that  the  sex    i<!  rising  among  them   into  an  Eu- 
ropean equality  of  rights  and  enjoyments- 


AJ 


138 


INDIANS    OF    THE    GRAND    RIVER. 


^ 


The  whole  of  Ihe  selilenu  riN  .ue   reckonetl  lo  fur- 
nish ubuut  500  vvariiouis  (o  i)iir  Governiuenl.   These, 
if  not  Ihe  best,  are  cerlainly  Hit;  dt  aiest  of  our  aliies  : 
besides   Ihe  tiupporl  of  lliemselves  and    Iheir  faniiies 
during  war,  several  Ihousands  are  expetuied  aniMially 
in  cloathiiig,  and  nick-nacks,   under   the  name  of  pre- 
sents.     Every  accidental  loss,  from  failure   of  crops, 
or  other  disai^lers,    Ihev   are   in    the    habit  of  expect- 
ing siiould  be    made   good    by  the    liberality  of  their 
"Great  Fatlicr,"   whose   means   and   generosity  they 
are  well  disposeti  to  consider  aa   unbounded  ;  an  idea 
which  his  agents  are  little  careful  torcpiess.      During 
the  late  war, they  behaved  with  the    caniions  courage 
of  German  auxiliaries,  evidently    consideiuig  it    their 
first  interest  to    spare   themselves,   their   s»'<ond,    to 
serve  their  father;  a   mode  of  conduct    wliich    was 
nearly  resented    by  the    more    enterprising   warrionrs 
of  the  West,  who  had  taken   no  the    hatchet    from    a 
strong    feeliitg   of  ne-essity,  and   hatred    to   the  en- 
croach;nenls  of  the  AiPeiic^iis.     Among   these,    the 
most  distinguished  was  Tecumseh,  a  Shawnee  chief- 
tain, whose  courage    and  commanding   talents  recom- 
mended him,  early  in  the  war,  not  only  to  the  notice, 
but  to  tlie    personal   esteem   and    admiration   of   Sir 
Isaac  Brocke.*      Tecumseh  perceived  the   necessity 
of  a  general  Indian  confederacy,  as   the   only  petnia- 
nent  barrier  to  the   dominion   of  the   Stales.      What 
he  had   the  genius,  to  conceive,  he  had  the  talents   to 
execute  :  eloquence,  and   address,  conr  ige,   penetra- 
tion, and  what  in  an  Indian  is  more   i-fMuaikable   than 
these,    undeviating   temperance.     Under   better  auH- 

*  Tl)e  Genoral.  onr  day.  presrnttMJ  liim  witli  llm  sasli  lie  had 
worn  on  liis  own  pi'r";i)ii.  Tfcnniseli  received  it  willi  jgieat 
emotion,  and  I'e^^tred  (lie  Gnni'i'ui  to  eoiisider.  that  if  he  re- 
frained lioni  wearinic  i(  iiiniself.  it  was-  from  an  anxiety  to  j»re- 
venl  the  jeaknisy.  wliit-i)  siirh  nn  honour  conferred  on  a  young 
chieftain,  nn^ht  eveiir  anioiii!:  tlie  ohier  hidian  raptnins ;  but 
that  he  wonM  send  it  lo  liis  family,  lo  lie  presui'ved  as  an  eter- 
nal meiuoriai  uf  tiis  fallier's  friendship. 


INDIANS    OF    THE  GRANU    RIVER. 


139 


M 


I 


1 
-  if 


pices,  this  Amphiciyonirk  leajiue  inij^ht  have  been 
eif.Mled  ;  fmt  aller  llif  death  of  his  friend  and  palrun, 
lie  fomid  fio  kifi(frcd  sjniil  with  whorti  lo  act;  but 
sfdiiu;  ^viih  grief  and  inilijin-itioii,  afler  upbraiding,  in 
fh«;  bit!t':'(.'sl  sarc:!si)>«,*  ihc  re'rcal  of  our  fon-es, 
he  en;r,'.if(;d  an  Aiiiei  i<;iii  dtfatlunonl  of  nionitled 
ridt'iien,  uf^ar  flie  I\loi.«\ian  village,  and  having,  rush- 
ed forward,  *^ilI;:;I',  ,  fo  »  iicniini*!!'  llieir  com  manding 
oflicer,  wluxii  l;e  tnjsionk  i'uv  (Jern'ral  Harrison,  he 
fell  by  a  j.islol  Im!!.  Tin-  oMillaiJoiis  of  the  Anieri- 
c;ui^  on  his  dedti'i,  afr)rd  niu'i  i  iiiti,  luM'anse  unintend- 
ed, evidence  uf  liie  dread  his  laicnts  had  inspired. -{- 


y  I'll 


i'      ! 


TO  TlIC  MH.MOIIY  OF  TECl'MSEH. 


Teonmspli  h'la  no  <rr:ive.  Imt  raiilt  :<  dipt 

Tht'lr  rav'iiiiiir  lit'al;s.  .iiu|  tlr  ink  liis  slonl  heart's  lide, 

Lcaviiii!;  Iiis  Imimcss  to  \vli  ten  '.\heit'  lie  dlfd  : 
His  skin  t»y  Chrislim  (oni:t!i:i\\ks  \\as  8lrl|»t 

Frum  the  h;'rM  ri'srcs^.t — !ni  oiciice  of  pride  ! 
TriiJ{n;»h mt  ti\'v  llif  r.nlli-\\'>im,  l;;it  in  vain 

I)e«^inin<r  Ih'  iin;»i«8ive  spirit  lo  (!<  rile,  i 

Which,  notliinjji;  (>••  imniKii.il,  !.i,o\\s  no  pain  ! 


*  "  I  eonipari>."  vai.l  ln'.  spr.akinjj  oC  I'lc  aniluir  of  tliis  re- 
treat, "niir  faMicr  !o  ;i  (ill  vvhi'c  dc;.  wlui,  in  ilio  ^ra^ion  of 
prosperity  <'arri''>>  liis  tail  cri'd  on  Ims  lurk,  liiit  <lro|)s  it  be- 
twixt his  l<'ii;>j,  aiiij  tliiv  at  lit"  approafli  ol'  (lanncr."  f)n  ano- 
ther orra^ion.  wilt  II  hy  way  of  pjiciiyin.:  Iii  rrntdiislranc"*  with 
a  nii'taphor.  in  ll)i>  Imliun  nunin'r.  our  roniniindi  r  prolt'^'scd 
his  rt'a(lin<'«s  to  lay  lii»;  lion 's  liy  his  side.  "  I'd!  Hit'  <lrt<!,,"  said 
the  JOi'iry  warrioin',  "  In?  lias  too  nnich  regard  ("or  his  eareass,  to 
lay  Ills  i)ones  any  wlicre." 

+  Ttio  olfioor  who  shot  him  was  a  Colonel  Johnson,  who  had 
been  !  i.:i>-"'r  s('V(  rely  w(tiui(l<'fl  tlio  inonicn'  hcCorr.  Trrnin- 
seh  Imre  a  p.  r-niiil  enmity  to  (inirral  Harrison,  to  wI;oim  lie 
attrilMited  thr  sluii:<;|it(M-  of  his  family  ;  and  had  avowed,  that 
witeii  they  met,  one  of  them  siioiild  lie  left  on  the  tield. 

\  The  ritlemen  are  said  to  have  eut  off  strips  of  his  skin,  to 
preserve  as  trophies. 


la 


) 


.«-i^i  « 


140 


INDIANS    OF    THE    GRAND    RIVER. 


Might  ye  torment  him  to  this  earth  again, 
That  were  an  agony :  his  children's  blood 
Deiug'd  his  soul,  and,  like  a  fiery  flood, 

Scorched  up  his  core  of  being.     Then  the  stain 

Of  flight  was  on  him,  and  the  wringing  thought, 
He  should  oo  more  the  crimson  hatchet  raise, 
Nor  drink  from  kindred  lips  his  song  of  praise; 

So  Liberty,  he  deem'd,  with  life  was  cheaply  bought. 


!  tl 


C    141    ] 


m 


CHAPTER  XXIIi. 


',  m 


THE  FALLS  OF  NIAGARA. 


*¥l 


To  describe  the  Falls  of  Niagara,  is  to  lell  a  thrice- 
toid  tale,;  jet  few  can  have  looked  on  this  marvel  of 
nature  with  so  cold  an  eye,  as  not  to  wish  for  some 
record  of  the  emotions  it  occasioned.  The  history 
of  our  sensations,  as  excited  by  the  siiblimest  objects 
of  art  or  nature,  would  be  far  worthier  of  perusal, 
than  the  Ie<;end8  of  our  vanities  and  passions,  of 
which  history  is,  for  the  most  part,  compounded.  It 
is  little,  that  such  spectacles  are  innocent  :  an  en- 
thusiast in  the  fine  arts  has  declared,  that  no  one 
can  contemplate  the  Apollo  Belvidere  without  feeling 
an  exaltation  of  his  moral  being.  The  miracles  of 
nature  are  not  less  powerful :  to  be  conversant  with 
them,  is  to  feel  too  sensibly  the  littleness  of  ordina- 
ry pursuits  and  vulgar  gains,  to  become  deeply  im- 
mersed in  their  polluted  vortex.  By  frequently  gaz- 
ing on  scenes,  in  which  the  power  of  man  is  nothing, 
the  possession  of  that  power  becomes  an  object  of 
indifference  or  contempt :  we  approach  the  content- 
ment of  Diogenes,  without  its  cynicalness,  and  have 
nothing  to  ask  of  the  masters  of  the  world,  but  that 
they  would  leave  us  the  free  use  of  sky  and  sun- 
shine— a  greater  boon,  indeed,  than  they  are  com- 
monly disposed  to  grant. 

At  Qiicenslon,  seven  miles  from  the  falls,  their 
sound,  united  with  the  rushing  of  the  river,  is  dis- 
tinctly heard.  At  the  distance  of  about  a  mile,  a 
white  cloud  hovering  over  the  trees,  indicates  their 
situation  :  it  is  not,  however,  until  the  road  emeiges 


0      .  0    r    ^1"^^^ 


■*^>' 


•^•.HUiL^. 


142 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


from  a  close  country  inio  the  space  of  open  ground 
iiniiietiiately  in  their  vicinity,  that  the  while  volumes 
of  foiiin  are  seen,  ^is  if  boiliiij^  Uj)  from  a  sulphurous 
gulj)h.  Ileie  a  fool-path  turns  from  the  roa<l,  lo- 
uariU  a  vvoodeil  cliiF.  The  rapiils  are  beheUI  on  the 
right,  rn.shin^,  for  the  sj)ace  of  a  mile,  like  a  lempes- 
luou><  sea.  A  narrow  tract  descends  about  60  t'eet 
(loivn  the  cliif,  and  continues  across  a  plashy  mea- 
dow, ihroui^h  a  copse,  encumbered  with  masses  of 
liujeslone  ;  extricated  from  which,  I  found  myself  on 
the  Tahle  Rock,  at  the  very  jxiijit  where  the  river 
precipitates  itself  into  llie  abyss.  The  rapid  molion 
of  the  waters,  the  sliinnlnj;  noise,  the  mounting 
cloudi),  almost  persuade  the  slarlleti  senses,  llia>  the 
rock  itself  is  lotierini,  and  on  the  point  of  rolling 
down  info  the  i!;ulj)!i,  which  swallows  up  the  mass  of 
descending  waters.  1  bent  over  It,  to  mark  the 
clouds  rolling  white  benealh  me,  as  in  an  inverled 
sky,  ilhimined  by  a  most  brilliant  rainbow, — one  of 
those  features  of  aol'lness,  which  Nature  delights  (o 
pencil  amid  her  wildest  scenes,  tempering  her  awful- 
ncss  with  beauty,  and  making  her  very  terrours 
lovely. 

There  is  a  ladder  about  half  a  mile  below  the  Ta- 
ble Rock,  by  which  I  descentled  the  clitT,  to  reach 
(he  fool  of  the  fall.  Mr.  Weld  has'  detailed  the  im- 
pediments and  difficulties  of  this  approach,  and  M. 
Volnev  confesses  they  were  such  as  to  overcome 
his  exertions  to  surmount  them  ;  a  (e.w  years,  how- 
ever, have  fuade  a  great  change  ;  the  present  dan- 
gers and  difficulties  may  be  easily  enumerated.  The 
first  is,  the  ordinary  hazard  e\ery  one  nins,  who 
goes  up,  or  down  a  ladder ;  this  is  a  very  good  one 
of  30  steps,  or  about  40  feet  ;  frotn  thence  the  path 
is  a  rou^h  one,  over  the  fragments  and  masses  of 
rock,  which  have  gradually  crumbled,  or  been  forci- 
bly riven,  from  the  cliff,  aid  which  cover  a  broad 
declining  space,  from  its  bae  to  (he  river  brink. 
The  only  risk  in  this  part  of  the  pilgrimage,  is  that 


i| 


U4 


w 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


143 


of  a  broken  shin  frofn  a  false  step.     The  path  grows 
siiiouth  as  i(   adviini'.eH  to  (he    fall,   »u    that    the   iiiitii- 
videtj  attention  may  be   isiven  to  this    i(n|)Osing  spec- 
tacle.     1   tcit  a    sen!>alion  of  aue  as   1    drew   Dear    it, 
like  that  caused  by  the  first  cannon   on    the    morning 
of  bailie.      1    passed    from    sunshine   into   gloom    and 
tempest :  the   spray  beat   down    in   a    heavy   rain  ;  a 
violent  wind  rushed  fiom  behind  the   sheet   of  water: 
it   was  ditiiciiit   to  respire,  and  lor  a  moment,  it  seem- 
ed  temerity  to  encounter  the  convulsive   workings  of 
the    elements,    and    intrude   into  the    dark   dwelliiii^ra 
of  their  power  :  but  the  danger  is  in  appearance  only  ; 
it  is  possible  to  penelnile  but  a  {myi  steps   behind  the 
curtain   and    in    liiese   few,    there    is    no   hazard  ;   the 
footing  is  good,  and    the  space  sufficiently  broad   and 
free  :   there  is  not   even  a  necessity  for   a   gniile,    two 
eyes  ;>iuply  suOIce  to  point  out  all  that  is    to  be   seen 
or  avouled.      During  my  first    visit,    there    were  two 
young    American    Udies    on    the   same   errand,   who 
were  drenchcil,  as    well    as    myself,    in    the    cloud    of 
spray.      \\\  my   opinion,  more  is  lost  than    gained,  by 
this  tacilily.      'J'lie  eil'tct  |)rouuced   upon  us,   by  any 
object  of  admiration,    is   increased  by  the   <lifFiculties 
of  approaching  it :    the  imagination   does  not  snflVr   to 
be  thrown  away,  a  single  particle  of  all  that  has  been 
expended  in  the  pursuit  :   lovers   and    pilgrims    know 
this  ;   bring  a    Baplisl's    he<:«l,    or  even    the    wood   of 
the  true  cross,  to  the    belie\er's  tloor,   they  will   soon 
lose  all  power  o\er  his   fancy.      Objects,    indeed,   of 
real  bcauly    or  subliuilly,   are  privileged  ne\er  whol- 
ly to  fail  of  their  effect,    whatever  may  be  the  disad- 
vantages imder  which  they  are  seen  ;  still  it  may  be, 
and  is,  weakened  l>y  them.     Are  the  feelings  excited 
by  the  Elgin  marbles,  when  we  view    theoi,  elbowed 
by    groups    of    simpering    fashionables,    and    gaping 
tradesmen,    the    same    with    those    they   must    have 
awakened  in  the  bosom  of  the  lonely  traveller,  sitting 
before  the   fane  of  Theseus  ? — For   Niagara,   I   fore- 
see that  in  a  few   years   travellers   will  find  a  finger 


lU 


!.; 


.  \\ 


;      I 


144 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


F"  >M^ 


posf,  "  To  (he  Falls'  Tea  Gardens,"  wifh  cakes  and 
refreshments,  set  out  on  the  Table  Rock. 

The  name  of  "the  Horse  shoe,"  hitherto  given  to 
the  lrir<^er  Fall,  is  no  longer  applicable  :  it  has  be- 
come an  acute  angle.  M.  Volney  and  Mr.  Weld 
have  observed  this  change.*  An  officer,  who  bad 
been  stationed  in  the  neighbourhood  thirty  years, 
pointed  out  to  me  the  alteration  which  had  taken 
place  in  the  centre  of  the  Fall,  which  he  estimated 
at  about  eighteen  feet  in  the  thirty  years.  M.  Vol- 
ney, speaking  of  the  limestone  ridge  at  Queen-ifon, 
observes,  "  Pour  quiconque  examine  avec  alietilion 
loutea  les  circonstances  de  ce  local,  il  devient  evi- 
dent que  c'est  ici  que  la  chute  a  d'abord  commence, 
ct  que  c'est  en  sciunl,  pour  ainsi  dire,  les  banes  dii 
rocher  que  le  fleuve  a  creu->S  le  ravin,  et  recule 
d'a^e  en  a!;e  sa  breche  iusq'au  lieu  ou  est  mainten- 
ant  la  cascade."  It  does  not  seem  that  any  objec- 
tion lies  against  this  theory,  for  admitting  that  the 
present  bed  of  the  Fall  wears  away,  and  recedes,  as 
it  evidently  does,  there  is  no  reason  to  set  any  other 
limit  to  the  commencement  of  this  action,  than  the 
commencement  of  the  impediment  by  which  it  is 
caused.  It  confirms  this  hypothesis,  that  from 
Q,iieenston  to  the  foot  of  the  Falls  there  are  no 
islands,  though  at,  and  above  them,  there  are  many. 
Ujjon  this  supposition,  then,  and  from  the  rough 
estimate  hitherto  formed,  some  calculation  may  be 
made,  approximating  to  the  probable  length  of  time 
the  river  has  employed  in  thus  wearing  its  way  back- 
wards. The  distance  is  about  six  (uiles ;  and  as  the 
substance  to  be  worn  away  is  hornogeneous,  the  pro- 
gress would  be  tolerably  uniform  in  uniform  spaces 
of  time  :  the  result,  however,  startles  our  chronology. 


♦  IjRS  plus  vieiix  hahltaiis  dii  pays,  comme  I'ohuerve  M.  Weld,  se 
rapellent  avoir  vii  la  mtancle  plus  avanrSo  de  pliisieiirs  pas.  Un  officier 
An;loi«i,  stitionnS  depuJ!)  trente  ans  au  Fort  GriS,  liii  cita  den  faitx  positifg, 
proiivant  (|iie  dcs  I'ocliers,  alors  exiatang,  avaient  etd  minds  et  engloutii. — 
ClimatD'Anierique,  T.  i.  p.   lift, 


'^ 


THE    FALLS' OF    NIAGARA. 


145^ 


1  cakes  and 


M.  Volnej  denominates  the  limestone  of  this  fron- 
tier "  primitifj  ou  chrystallisi.**  It  however  con- 
tains organick  remains,  as  well  as  that  of  the  Gene- 
see country,  but  not  in  such  abundance  as  the  bed 
of  Lake  Erie.  He  considers  it  as  resting  "sur  del 
bancs  de  scbiste  bleu,  que  contiennent  une  forte 
dose  de  soulfre."  I  observed  sulphur  oozing  abun- 
dantly from  the  cliff  immediately  adjacent  to,  and 
within  the  spray  of  the  Fall.''^ 

The  lesser  F'all,  on  the  American  side,  had  a 
considerable  appearance  of  elevation  above  the  bed 
of  the  greater :  upon  inquiry,  I  found  there  was  a 
difference  of  fifteen  feet  between  them,  caused  pro- 
bably by  the  greater  weight  of  water  descending 
down  the  latter;  the  effect  of  the  scene  is  increased 
by  this  circumstance. 

The  island  which  divides  the  Falls  has  been  fre- 
quently visited  of  late  years,  nor,  odd  as  it  may 
seem,  is  it  an  adventure  of  much  hazard.  Examin- 
ing the  map,  it  will  be  seen,  that  at  the  point,  at 
which  the  rapids  commence,  the  current  separates, 
and  is  drawn  on  either  side,  towards  the  two  Falls, 
while  the  centre  of  the  stream,  being  in  the  straight 
line  of  the  island,  descends  towards  it  without  any 
violent  attraction  ;  and  down  this  still  water  Ameri- 
can boats,  well  manned,  and  provided  with  poles  to 
secure  them  from  the  action  of  the  two  currents,  have 
frequently  dropt,  to  the  Island.  Since,  however, 
the  small  military  post  the  Americans  occupied,  on 
their  side  of  the  river,  has  been  abandoned,  there 
are  no  boats  in  the  neighbourhood,  equal  to  the  at- 
tempt. 

The  whiilpool  is  abouf^half-way  betwixt  Queens- 
ton  and  Niagara.  The  river,  boiling,  and  eddying 
from  the  Falls,  enters  a  circular  basin,  round  which 
the  lofty  cliff  sweeps  like  an  antique  w%)'»  overgrown 

*  1  found  gypsum  incorporated  with  the  limestoae,  in  seve- 
ral parts  of  tlie  cliff. 

19 


/i 


t- .   '  .» 


146 


.'j»- 


VHE    FALL8    OF    NIA04RA. 


'f/ 


.rfi 


III,      i' 


with  treea  at  its  base,  and  amid  its  clefts  and  crevi- 
ces. The  cause  of  the  whirlpool  is  readily  per- 
ceived by  the  spectator,  who  looks  down,  and  ob- 
serves that  the  stream,  being  compelled  into  this 
basin,  by  the  direction  of  its  channel,  and  unable  to 
ei^cape  with  equal  celerity,  is  forced  to  gain  time  by 
revolving  within  its  circumference.^ 

The  river  widens   above  the  Falls.     The   banks 
are  low  and  (he  adjoining  country   flat.     The  bridge 
over  the   Chippewa  is  protected  by  a  tile  de  pont  : 
the   river  in  properly  a  long  stagnant  creek,  or  drain, 
to  Canby   Marsh,   which  covers  all   the  interiour  of 
the  frontier,  from  the  Grand  River. — Fort    Erie   has 
a    war-worn    aspect,  decayed    both  in  strength    and 
dignity.     A  rag  upon  a  crooked  pole,  was   the  ordy 
banner,    floating   on   the  evening   breeze :  the  walls 
were  tenanijess.     The  original  building  was  a  fortifi- 
ed stone    barrack  :  four   small    bastions    were    com- 
menced before  the  war,  and  one  of  them  partly  faced, 
but  without  curtainsi.     An  Officer,  who  stood  gover- 
nour  when  hostilities  comtnenced,  finding  these  works 
too  scattered    and  unconnected   for  his  small    garri- 
son, drew  an  interiour  entrenchment  round  the   bar- 
rack, which  he   declared  to  be  impregnable,  and  as 
he  prudently   avoided   bringing  his  declaration   to  a 
trial,  it  may  still  hold  good.      When   the   Americans 
defended   the  fort    under  Qeneral  Brown,  they  con 
verted  each  of  the  bastions  into  a  detached  redoubt 
raised  a  cavalier  battery  on  one  of  them,  and   con 
nected  them  with  abatlis  :  It  was  the  accidental  ex 
plosion  of  one  of  these,  during  our  assault,  in   Sept 
1814,  that  saved  their  array   in  its  entrenched  camp, 
on  Snake  Hill,  adjoining  the  fort.f      Snake   Hill  is 

.'^ 
*  The  flpKt  cause  or  thiit  elliow  in  the  roiirHe  ot*  the  river, 
wan  |irnbal)ly  tlic  oppoNition  of  sorou  part  of  the  cliff  ouUi« 
Dorfliern  ttido  of  tho  basin,  harder  than  tlie  reil. 

f  Geonral  Brown  h»<t  admitted  the  exploitinii  to  have  hcea 
arcid<>nial :  it  tnoii  plaon  alter  oiu'  troops  had  pot««HNion  of  the 
bastion  most  probalily  by  a  wad's  enloriug  tho  powder  inaga- 
sine  benoatb  itt 


THE    FALLS    OF    NIAGARA. 


i4f 


a  sand-hillock,  on  the  edge  of  the  lake,  and  proves 
how  easy  it  is,  to  be  a  hill  in  a  flat  country.  The 
baain  of  Lake  Erie  is  limestone,  most  inhospitable  to 
eels.  It  abounds  in  organick  remains,  corals,  reeds, 
shells,  &c.,  differing  in  this  respect,  from  the  rock 
round  Niagara,  in  which  the  impression  of  a  shell 
is  rarelj   to  be  discovered. 

Crossing  the  Niagara  to  Black  Hock,  by  a  ferrj 
three-fourths  of  a  mile  over,  1  again  entered  t^e  ter- 
ritory of  the  United  States. 


h 


(VI 


.1"* 


,  it-:. 


* 


^1, 


l-se  of  tlie  river, 
thechfTou  tbe 

• 

|i  to  have  tiren 
loi^nifiinn  of  the 
puwdcr  inaga- 


'  i*  *.st't.. 

V  T^ 

»  t 

^  .  •  t  * 

> 

*.t           •      «I    s 

•» 

■••        1   t 

*, 

1 

=»i« 

'! 

1 

.  ii 

►  «    1- . 

It* 

1     b 

.   t 


V. 


1. 1 


.hi      I      I  M  ! 

k « '     i.      ■  .     '  *     ' 


I   148   ] 


>  i 


• 

'■    1    •    i<  , 

■■>♦■■■- 

* 

i  ».-'iV  - 

CHAPTER  XXIV. 

T'-',.    ..i-t'X  : 


BLACK  ROCK  TO  PHILADELPHIA.       ^ 


)'  4 


Oct.  19,  Buffalo 

2  Milei.  N.  York 

WilliatDBville 

10 

Porter's  Idd 

4 

ZO,  Batavia 

26 

21,  Caledonia 

" 

23,   \von  ' 

7      ,  " 

Danville 

28 

34,  Cauisteo 

17 

25,  Bath 

20 

26,  Painted  Post 

18 

27,  Newtown  or  Elmira 

17 

'    38,  Tyoga  Point 

20  Peaoiylvauia 

30,  Wywll 

13 

Le  Fevre's  Inn 

8     , 

31,  Wyalusiog 

8 

Tunkhanock 

20 

Nov.  1,  Wilkesbarre 

28 

4,  Wrnirg's  Inn 

17 

Pnkono  Mountain 

12 

5,  Wind  G«p 

16  1-2 

Nazareth 

0 

6,  Bethlehem 

10 

7,  Seller's    an 

20 

8,  Philadelphia 

31 

378  12 


OvvvkhO  was  among  the  frontier  villages  burnt  dur- 
ing the  war  ;  not  a  house  was  left  standing.  It  is  now 
not  merely  a  flourishing  village,  but  a  considerable 
town,  with  shops  and  hotels,  which  might  any  where 
be  called  handsome,  and  in  this  part  of  the  country, 
asfoMiDhing.  Its  situation  is  highly  advantageous, 
forming  the  extremity  of  the  new  line  of  settled 
country  already  described,  and  communicating  by 
the  Lakes  with  the  Western  States  of  the  Union,  and 


BL&eK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA.  140 


■II 


,-.,;*fi  A,  J' 


N.  York. 


rlvauirf 


1  burnt  dur- 
It  18  now 
Lniiderable 
I  any  where 
le  country, 
rantageous, 
]of  settled 
I'lcating  by 
Fnioni  and 


the  two  Canadas.  The  American  side  of  Lake 
£ri6  is  aiiio  settling  fast,  and  Erie  is  already  a  thriv- 
ing (own.  The  celerity  with  which  Buflalo  has  risen 
from  its  ashes,  indicates  the  juvenile  spirit  of  life  and 
increase,  that  so  eminently  distinguishes  the  Ameri- 
can population  from  (he  exhausted  tribes  of  our  he- 
misphere, which  seem,  in  many  countries,  scarcely 
to  preserve  vitiality  sufficient  to  bear  up  against  the 
evils  of  inequality  and  bad  governmment.  ''  The 
hot  breath  of  war"  is  scarcely  felt  here,  or,  like 
their  own  forest  conflar,ia(ions,  is  succeeded  by  a 
livelier  verdure,  and  richer  produce. 

I  found  (he  country  as  I  went  on,  (hickly  setded,'*^ 
but  dull,  and  uniform  in  feature,  being  an  entire  flat. 
The  autumn  had  been  dry,  ajntl  water  was  so  scarce 
in  many  places,  that  my  horse  was  sometimes  very 
grudgingly  served  with  wha(  had  been  fetched  seve- 
ral miles.  This  is  an  evil  not  rncommon  in  newly 
fi'^ttled  districts:  draining  follows  clearing;  the  creeks, 
»'.'  ''>ri<rer  fed  by  (he  swamps,  disencumbered  aUo  of 
;. ''' .  unks  of  trees,  and  other  substances  by  which 
ti. ''  tvaters  were  in  a  great  degree  stayed,  easily 
run  dry  in  summer,  and  soon  fail  altogether. 

The  principal  inn  at  Batavia  is  large,  and  yet  upon 
an  economical  principle,  for  one  roof  covers  hotel, 
prison,  court-house,  and  assembly  room.  I  observed 
several  prisoners  at  (he  bars  of  a  lower  room,  and  in- 
quired of  an  old  German  about  the  house,  what  might 
generally  be  their  olTences.  "  They  had  been  most 
of  them  speculating  too  much."  It  seemed  hard 
thus  to  punish  men  for  the  ingenious  use  of  their  wits, 
so  I  begged  a  fur(her  explanation  :  they  had  been 
rur<j;ii)s£  bank-notes.  This  delicate  definition  remind- 
ed me  of  a  farmer  at  Watertown,  with  whom  we  fell 
upon  the  subjects  of  English  deserters.  "  We  don't 
want  them  here,"  said  he ;  "  they  are  loo  familiar 

*  It  was  a  "dreary  wildernetit'*  irhen  Mr.  Moore  trnrflllr4l 
through  it. 


f 


.'/ 


laO 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


14!.  1'iil 


«    f 


.i^i      -a 


by  half."  Now,  though  f  coiild  readily  believe  of 
these  my  coiinlrynien,  that  bishfiilnei*8  had  no  part 
in  them,  it  see  ned  an  oil  J  ^roind  ot*  compiainl  for  a 
Yarikev;  no  I  repeited  so  iletfiin;;  »vonderin«;ly,  "too 
faniliar!"  "  Aye,"  rejoined  he,  "ihey  steal  every 
thifijr  thev  can  lav  their  hadds  upon."  There  is  an 
Ejiiscojial  Ciiiirch  biiildinn  here  by  subscription ; 
th"i  «Mnt  of  which  is  to  be  "20,000  dollars.  Mv  host 
olfdred  me  a  "  Stirrnp  C.ip,"  at  partin;;,  a  civility 
not  nniHiial  !n  the  iinlravelled  parts,  both  of  the 
Slates,  and  C'inada. 

Allan's  Creek,  betwixt  Batavia  and  Caledonia, 
see  ns,  (Voin  the  banks  still  remaiiling,  at  some  distufice 
fro  II  Its  present  channel,  to  have  been  once  a  rjiisi- 
deible  river,  as  was  its  neighbour,  the  stream  of  Ca- 
ledo  lia,  by  the  same  token. 

Ciledonia  is  a  smdl,  bnt  flonrishini;  villiire,  and 
has  a  handsome  inn,  with  vory  ro  nforiable  acco  n  no- 
dations  :  close  to  the  road  is  a  sheet  of  water,  cover- 
ins;  seven  or  ai^ht  acres,  called  the  Great  Sp'in;;, 
fro  n  which  a  clear  and  rapid  stream  descends,  throtii^h 
a  pleasini;  vallev,  into  Allan's  Creek,  before  the  lat- 
ter nniles  with  the  Oenesee  River.  Its  banks  are 
adorned  with  natural  ]^— ^ves  and  copses,  in  which  I 
observed  the  candleberry  mvrtle  in  ajreat  abundance  ; 
but  a  more  interesting;  si:;ht  is  the  quantity  of  orga- 
nick  re  nains,  with  which  the  blocks  of  limestone, 
scattered  throus;h  the  iow  <rround  round  it,  are  en- 
crusted, as  if  with*  rude  sculpture  :  they  are  mixed 
with  nodules  of  s;ranite,  and  present  innumerable 
forms  both  of  shells  and  aqu  itick  plants :  the  shells 
were  frequently  attache  I  to  stones,  and  imbedded  in 
■ind,  evincing  their  co  uparaiively  late  deposition. 
This  district  has  been  settled  fifteen  years  ;  cleared 
lanri  is  worth  50  dollars  per  acre  ;  uncleared  about 
1.0  dollars.  Farmers  reckon  upon  a  return  in  crops 
of  about  twenty-five  for  one. 

I  halted  a  d  ly  at  Caledonii  to  rest  my  horse,  and 
shoot  partridges,  and  the  neit  morning  went  on  to 


BLACK  ROCK  TO  PHILADELPHIA. 


151 


Avon,  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Genesee,  to  break- 
fast :  here  let  me  record  the  fame  of  the  lillle  red- 
bricked  taiern,  on  the  right  hand  side,  near  the  en- 
trance of  the  village  (I  lorgel  the  sign.)  In  fitteen 
nimiifes  afier  my  arri\al  I  sat  down  to  a  breakfast 
vvhich  d  Parisian  gourmand  might  have  envied  nie. — 
By  \Ue.  bye,  the  Americans  excel  in  breakfasts, 
though  (heir  dinners  are  naught. — At  A\on  1  quilled 
ihf  main  road,  and  following  the  right  bank  of  the 
Genesee,  beean,  soon  after  crpssing  the  si  ream  of 
Ijake  Coiiiesiis,  to  fall  in  with  tiie  spurs  of  the  Alle- 
gany Ritlges.  The  scenery  here  improves,  and  tlie 
roH<l«*  pi'oporiionably  deteriorate  :  wiltl  even  losa\age- 
nesH,  tnounlain  heights  branch  thickly  across  the 
coiifitry,  with  no  seeming  order  or  tl  reclion,  like  so 
many  giganlick  mole-hills.  1'lie  only  level  ^.round  is 
the  narrow  alluvion  of  the  streams,  which  the  road  is, 
as  often  as  pos:«ible,  lau<j!;ht  lo  follow  ;  when  it  cannot 
do  so,  it  atTords  a  very  practical  illustration  of  the  upg 
and  downs  of  lite  ;  yet  is  this  travellinu,  prefci^ble, 
perhaps  in  both  instances,  lo  the  unitormiiy  uiiich 
causes  no  fatigue,  and  excites  no  emotion.  If  the 
lieight  be  toilsome,  the  prospect  is  pleasant  of  the 
deep  glens,  ami  shades  benealli,  and  of  the  blue  hills 
smiling  in  distant  sunshine.  The  valley  i»  ollen  en- 
cumbered with  rocks,  and  its  road  deep  and  plashy  ; 
but  lh«;  white  broken  torrent  rushes  agreeably  through 
it  :  its  verdure  is  deep  and  various,  or  its  cultivation 
clieerful.  The  Genesee  River  seems  to  bound  the 
liineslone  region  in  this  direction.  The  All«\gany 
Ridges,  less  rugged  and  prccipilious  than  granite 
mountains,  are  b(»ldcr  and  more  irregular  than  the 
limestone  heighls,  which  have  a  nearer  resemblance 
to  long  terraces  of  masonry.  M.  Volney  cunsidem 
the  Freestone  Mountains,  called  the  Kalskill,  which 
fall  npor  the  Hudson  below  Albany,  as  bounding  the 
granilick  region  towards  the  East,  and  consliluliiig 
(he  basi«i  of  the  wi.ole  mountain  coun'ry  from  thence 
to  the  Apalachian  Ridges,  and  Georgia,  fixing  I  he 


j  I J 


152 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


^11 


li  I 


% 


sources  of  (he  Susquehanna,  and  the  Genesee  Coun- 
try as  (he  points  of  contact  betwixt  it  and  the  Lime- 
stone Country.  M.  Guillemard  observes  (M.  Yol- 
ney,  t.  i.  p.  57.) 

*'  Le  sol  de  foiite  la  haute  Soskoii&na  est  mll£  de 
schistes,  de  pierrea  de  geiss,  de  schorl,  de  feld-spath,  coup^ 
d'une  foule  de  sillous  peu  6lev^es,  qui  montent  par  gradini 
jusqu'a  L'Allegueny  ;  la  domine  le  gr^s." 

The  nrooJs  round  the  Genesee  abound  in  large 
black  squirrels,  some  of  which  are  as  big  as  a  small 
cat ;  they  are  destructive  to  grain,  and  are  therefore 
keenly  pursued  by  sportsmen,  who  frequently  make 
parties,  and  celebrate  the  destruction  of  several 
thousands  at  one  chase  :  their  flesh  is  considered  a  de- 
licacy :  they  migrate  ai  difTerent  seasons,  and  have 
the  credit  of  ingeniously  ferrying  themselves  over 
rivers,  by  using  a  piece  of  bark  for  a  raft,  and  their 
tails  for  sails.  Olaus  Wormius  tells  us  the  same  story 
of  the  Norwegian  squirrels,^  and  Linnnus  authorizes 
the  belief,  so  I  suppose  it  to  be  an  indigenous  talent, 
though  it  would  not  cost  much  to  a  builder  of  hypo- 
theses to  infer  from  (hence  the  derivation  of  Ameri- 
can squirrels  from  an  European  slock. 

The  road  from  Danville  crosses  a  creek,  winds 
for  three  miles  up  a  mountain  steep,  heavily  timber- 
ed, and  continues  through  swampy  forests  to  Canis- 
teo.  Chse  to  the  little  village  of  Arkport  the 
Tyoga  branch  of  the  Susquehanna  rises,  in  a  mea- 
dow by  the  road  side.  Arkport  is  named  from  the 
low  flat  boats  called  arks,  which  are  built  there,  and 
used  on  the  Tyoga,  and  Susquehanna,  whose  head- 
waters have  depth  for  no  other  craft,  and  for  (his, 
during  the  rainy  season  only.  It  may  be  supposed 
that  so  rugged  a  country  is  very  thinly  settled  :  vil- 
lages are  separaled  by  a  di8(ance  of  fif(een  or  (wenty 
miles,  with  few  intermediate  cottages.     BetwiKt  Ca- 

'''  "  Traiiatat  hnsc  bostiola  per  anines  exi^uo  ligno  caudam 
hat>ens  pro  veto  expansatn  :"  nur  can  it  he  otliorwise  ;  "  iVon 
eoiin  ei  natiira  alicessum  couit  natandi  raodum."— Ixriii.  14. 


%     ' 


f  > 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


153 


ee  Coiin- 
he  Lime- 
(M.  Vol- 

ath,  couj^ti 
|)ar  gratlioB 

d  in  large 
as  a  Hmall 
B  therefore 
gntly  make 
of    several 
dered  a  de- 
,  and  have 
ielves  over 
f,  and  Iheir 
same  story 
i  authorizes 
nous  talent, 
er  of  hypo- 
I  of  Aineri- 

eek,   windg 
\\y  timber- 
Its  to  Canis- 
rkport   the 
in  a  mea- 
[l  from   the 
there,  and 
hose  liead- 
id   for  this, 
supposed 
icttled  :  vil- 
or  twenty 
elwi&t  Ca- 

ligno  caudam 
Vise  ;  "Non 
.IzTiii.  14 


Nisteo  and  Bath  there  are  not  more  than  a  dozen, 
though  improveuieiits  are  going  on.  The  principal 
settlemenlii  are  to  be  found  on  the  narrow  alluvions 
of  the  creeks  and  rivers  ;  but  even  there  the  soil  is 
of  an  inferiour  quality.  The  roads  are  bad  enough, 
but  1  was  surprised  to  see  them  deep  and  niry, 
having  experienced  but  one  wet  day  during  the  au- 
tumn. I  found,  however,  that  this  calculation  would 
not  apply  to  the  mountains,  or  to  the  country  east  of 
them,  where  there  had  been  heavy  falls  of  rain  :  a 
circumstance  easily  account'  I  for  by  considering 
that  th6  clouds  which  come  impregnated  with  mois- 
ture from  the  Atlantick,  are  frequently  arrested  by 
the  mountains,  and  disgorged,  without  crossing  into 
the  Western  country. 

Bath  is  built  on  the  alluvion  of  the  Conhocto 
Creek,  and  embosomed  in  wild  nuninlains  :  the  prin- 
cipal houses  are  placed  round  the  three  sides  of  a 
square,  or  green,  and  being  most  of  them  new,  whitf, 
and  tastefully  finished,  have  a  lively  appearance, 
agreeably  contrasted  with  the  dark  mountain  scene- 
ry which  opens  on  the  fourth  side.  It  was  court 
day  when  1  arrived,  and  as  the  court  was  held  at 
the  tavern  to  which  I  had  been  recommended,  I 
found  it  in  a  bustle,  but  1  was  not  the  less  comforta- 
bly accommodated  in  a  well-furnished  carpeted  par- 
lour, in  which  dinner  was  neatly  and  expeditiously 
served. 

Amone;  the  persons  at  the  court-meeting  was  the 
Militia  (iiM)rral,  M'Clure,  who  brought  on  his  coun- 
trymen the  (l(;struction  of  their  frontier,  by  hia 
wanton  burning  of  Newark.  He  !:eeps  a  store  in 
Bath,  and  succeeded  to  the  command  which  he  dis- 
graced, either  by  accident,  or  through  the  want  of  a 
fitter  man.  He  had  lately  been  cast  in  HOO  dollars 
damages  at  Canandaigna,  in  an  action  brought  by  an 
inhabitant  of  Newark,  lor  the  destruction  of  lii^  pro- 
perty. It  would  be  judging  the  Americans  unfairly 
to  suppose  they  had  regarded  his  conduct  with  in- 

20 


111 


i' 


,    ! 


154 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


1    ^. 


\.» 


difference :  for  some  time  after  if,  he  scarcely  dared 
(o  show  himself  in  his  own  neighbourhood ;  and 
being  on  one  occasion  recognized  at  a  publick  auc- 
tion-rnart  in  Philadelphia,  he  was  hooted  out  of  the 
room. 

Many  affect  to  consider  the  American  government 
as  confederate  with  its  oflScer  in  the  burning  of 
Newark.  It  must  be  observed,  first  of  all,  that  Mr. 
M'Glure's  conduct  was  disavowed  ;  and  secondly, 
that  his  instructions  have  been  produced,  directing 
him  to  "  destroy  the  village,  in  case  it  should  be  ne- 
cessary for  the  defence  of  the  fort."  Every  one 
acquainted  with  the  rules  of  war,  or  even  with  the 
rules  of  common  sense,  knows  such  instructions  to 
be  perfectly  correct  ;  yet  the  calumny  has  still  held 
its  ground  ;  as  if  the  American  government,  how- 
ever willing  in  principle,  had  really  any  interest  to 
commence  a  system  of  desolation,  which  could  not 
but  be,  as  it  was,  heavily  retaliated  upon  inhabitants, 
as  innocent  and  defenceless  as  those  of  Newark. 
"  But  jealous  minds  will  not  be  answered  thus."  A 
lurking  hostility  to  republicanism  has  been  too  fre- 
quently suffereil  to  colour  our  views  of  the  conduct 
of  America.  Had  I  believed  many  Englishmen  in 
Canada,  I  should  have  believed  there  were  neither 
honour,  faith,  nor  honesty  in  the  United  Slates;  and 
that  the  whole  of  their  military  conduct  was  as  odious 
for  its  cruelty,  as  ridiculous  fur  its  blunders  ;  yet  as 
far  as  I  could  sift  out  the  truth,  even  on  our  side  of 
the  Boundary  Line,  there  was,  as  in  all  wars,  some- 
thing to  be  praised,  and  much  to  be  blamed  on  the 
part  of  both.  Each  nation  may  charge  the  other 
with  many  acts  of  devastation,  and  perhaps  some 
unnecessary  bloodshed  ;  but  each  could  also  call  to 
mind,  amid  many  deeds  of  gallantry,  traits  of  high 
feelinv,  and  generous  humanity.  Should  the  reverse 
side  of  (he  picture  be  alone  retain^^d  in  sight? — 
Perish^  the  records  of  glory,  and  warlike  achieve- 


n. 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PIIILAnELPHI A. 


!.!>:> 


inent,  iflliey  serve  but  to  perpetuate  national  aninio- 
giiies,  and   whet  ttie  sworil  lor  a  future  conlesi  ! 

There  is  a  road  from  Baih  by  the  shores  of  the 
Crooked  Lake  to  Jerusaleu),  the  village  of  the  Elect 
Luly,  Jemima  Wilkinson,  and  her  sect  of  Friends. 
A  story  is  current  in  this  part  of  the  country,  that 
having  signitied  her  intention  of  proving  the  truth  of 
her  mission,  by  walkin.;  on  the  waters,  and  assembled 
her  followers  to  witness  the  miracle,  she  asked  (hem 
whether  they  truly  believed  in  her  ability  to  per- 
form it,  to  which  they  unanimously  replieil,  *'  I  hey 
did  ;"  "  Then,"  said  she  "  the  performance  of  it  is 
unnecessary  ;"  and  so,  as  may  be  believed,  they 
went  their  ways  without  it. 

The  road  from  Bath  to  Painted  Post,  follows  the 
alluvion  of  the  Conhocio  branch  of  the  T^oga,  and 
though  stony  is  tolerably  level;  it  crosses  the  Creek 
twice  in  the  last  six  miles.  The  mountains  have  a 
slaty  appearance,  with  horizontal  strata.  I  was  dis- 
appointed at  Painted  Post  to  find  the  post  gone ; 
broken  down,  or  rotted,  within  these  few  years.  It 
was,  as  may  be  supposed,  an  Indian  memorial,  either 
of  triumphj  or  death,  or  of  both.  A  post  is  not 
much,  but,  in  this  instance  it  was  a  record  of  the 
past,  a  memorial  of,  (may  I  be  pardoned  the  expres- 
sion,) the  heroick  ages  of  America!"^ 

When  I  was  at  Ancaster  I  was  shown  the  grave 
of  an  Indian,  among  the  woods  near  the  head  of  the 
stream  :  It  was  co\ered  with  boards,  and  a  pole 
erected  at  each  end,  on  which  a  kind  of  dance  was 
rudely  painted  with  vermillion.  The  relati\es  of 
the  deceased  brought  offerings  to  it  daily  during 
their  stay  in  the  neighbourhood  ;  a  vitality  of  sorrow 
truly  savage.  •  , 

*  M.  Voloey,  wiiliout  meaning  to  speak  their  praise,  dis- 
covers  a  wondcrtii!  reKomlilance  betwixt  tiio  Imliaiis,  and 
th(!  herofs  of  Homer  and  hophucies.  Vid.  "  Eclaircissemens 
sur  let  Sauvages,"  t.  11.  p.  502. 


156 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


iV:" 


I- 


¥  'n  I 


New  Town,  or  Elmira,  ([  put  down  both  the 
names,  for  I  went  six  miles  about,  from  not  know- 
ing it  ha<l  the  happiness  to  have  two,)  is  pleasantly 
situated  on  the  edge  of  the  Tyoga  :  its  appearance, 
however,  is  far  from  gay,  for  few  of  the  houses  are 
painted,  and  wooden  buildings,  without  this  precau- 
tion, soon  acquire  a  dingy  decayed  appearance. 
But  New  Town  has  better  claims  than  mere  good 
looks,  to  my  grateful  remembrance.  Owing  to  some 
accidental  delays,  in  the  course  of  my  journey,  I 
found  by  the  time  of  my  arrival  here,  that  I  had 
not  cash  sufficient  to  carry  me  to  Philadelphia,  nor 
even  much  farther  than  New  Town :  I  had  bills  on 
Philadelphia,  and  applied  to  a  respectable  store- 
keeper,  that  is,  tradesman,  of  the  village,  to  cash  me 
one ;  the  amount,  however,  was  beyond  any  remit- 
tance he  had  occasion  to  make,  but  he  immediately 
ofTered  me  whatever  sum  I  might  require  for  my 
journey,  with  no  better  security  than  my  word,  for 
its  repay  tent  at  Philadelphia  ;  he  even  insisted  on 
my  taking  more  than  I  mentioned  as  sufficient.  I 
do  not  believe  this  trait  of  liberdity  would  surprise 
an  American,  for  no  one  in  the  Stales,  to  whom  I 
mentioned  it,  seemed  to  consider  it  as  more  than 
any  stranger  of  respectable  appearance  might  have 
looked  for,  in  simiiaf  circumstances  ;  but  it  might 
well  surprise  an  English  traveller,  who  had  been 
told,  as  1  had,  that  the  Americans  never  failed  to 
cheat  and  insult  every  Englishman  who  travelled 
through  their  country,  especially  if  they  knew  him 
to  be  an  officer :  this  latter  particular  they  never 
failed  to  inform  themselves  of,  for  they  are  by  no 
means  bashful  in  inquiries ;  but  if  the  discovery  ope- 
rated in  any  way  upon  their  behaviour,  it  was 
rather  to  my  advantage,  nor  did  I  meet  with  a 
single  instance  of  incivility  betwixt  Canada  and 
Charleston,  except  at  the  Shenandoah  Point,  from 
a  drunken  English  deserter. — My  testimony,  in  this 
particular,  will  certainly  not  invalidate  the  complaints 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


157 


3o(h   the 
ot  know- 
ileasantly 
pearaiice, 
ouses  are 
J   precau- 
pearance. 
lere  good 
g  to  Houie 
aiirney,   I 
hat  I  had 
;1phia,  nor 
d  bilU  on 
ble   store- 
0  cash  me 
my  remit- 
iinediately 
re  for  my 
word,  for 
insisted  on 
jfficient.     I 
d  surprise 
o  whom  I 
more  than 
night  have 
t  it  might 
had  been 
failed   to 
I  travelled 
knew  him 
ley   never 
ire  by   no 
ivery  ope- 
r,   it    was 
let  with   a 
nada   and 
'oint,  from 
ly,  in  this 
omplaintB 


of  many  other  travellers,  who,  I  doubt  not,  have  fre- 
quently enroiMitered  rude  treatment,  and  quite  as 
frequently  deserved  it ;  but  it  will  at  least  prove  the 
possibility'  of  traversing  (lie  Uniled  Stales  without 
insult  or  interruption,  and  even  of  being  occasionally 
surprised  by  liberality  and  kindneos. 
■  The  village  of  Tyoga  Point  is  placed,  as  its  name 
denotes,  at  the  continence  of  the  Tyoga  and  eastern 
branch  of  llie  Susquehanna,  which  comes  down  from 
the  Kutskill  mouni:<ins.  From  the  heights  round  the 
village,  the  eye  commands  majestick  views  of  these 
two  rivers,  descending  in  opposite  directions  be- 
twixt their  mountain  shores,  and  pursuing  their  united 
course  through  a  similar  tract  of  wild  and  pictur- 
esque country.  These  hills  and  forests  abound  in 
deer,  nor  are  wolves  and  bears  uncommon.  The 
village  itself  is  singularly  neat,  containing  several 
houses  finished  with  elegance,  and  is  altogether  what 
the  mind  and  eye  desire  in  a  country  village  :  the 
tavern  answers  to  the  rest,  being  clean,  cheap,  and 
kept  by  a  very  civil  landlady.  I  halted  here  a  day, 
to  kill  pheasants,  and  climb  the  mountains  on  the 
right  bank  of  the  Tyoga,  in  search  of  prospects,  and 
ferrying  over  the  Susquehanna,  the  next  morning 
continued  my  route  along  its  left  bank,  through  a 
desert  of  rocks  and  forest,  to  Le  Fevre's  inn,  being 
a  log-hut,  so  denominated. — And  how  came  Le 
Fevre  in  it  ? 

During  the  disturbed  period  of  the  French  revo- 
lution, a  number  of  emigrarls,  several  of  them  men 
of  rank  and  property,  purchased  a  tract  of  land  on 
the  Scioto,  for  the  purpose  of  founding  a  "  City  of 
Refuge."  In  this  purchase  they  were  misled,  either 
by  their  own  want  of  information,  or  by  the  knavery 
of  their  agents  ;  and  finding  a  settlement  on  the 
Scioto  impracticable,  they  removed  to  Chemingo, 
on  the  Tyoga. — Here  again  they  were  not  more 
fortunate ;  the  scanty  alluvion  round  the  fool  of 
these  rocky  mountains,  is  little  likely  to  repay  hardi> 


,»'! 


l;| 


\ 


158 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


H  '^ 


er  ciillivafora  ;  and  for  the  third  time,  this  wander* 
ing  colony  tran:«ported  itself  to  the  ri^ht  bank  of  the 
Susquehanna,  betwixt  VVysall  and  Wyalusing,  and 
astonished  the  inhabitants  by  buildinc  man^-uindow- 
ed  villas,  and  cutting  roads  across  the  mountains  to 
hunt  deer  and  foxes.  They  named  their  village 
French-town,  and  considering  its  barren  site,  il  is 
probable  they  must  have  shortly  resoUed  on  a  fourth 
pilgrimage,  when  change  of  circumstances  enabled 
them  to  return  to  France,  leaving  their  aiiy  halls  (o 
be  tenanted  by  crows,  and  wondered  :il  hv  all  the 
farmers  in  the  neighbourhood.  One  faini!^»,  how- 
ever remained  behind,  and  crossing  the  river,  to 
avoid  starvation,  set  up  this  litte  inn.  The  na'iie  of 
this  family  is  Le  Fevre ;  not  Sterne's  Le  Fevre  ; 
neither  withered  greatness,  nor  heart-broken  merit, — 
yet  one  whose  present  situation  seems  no  less  for- 
cibly contrasted  with  their  former  habits  of  life,  t'ian 
that  of  King  Joseph  himself.  The  keeper  of  a 
Caffi  Anirlaise  d.  Paris,  set  down  among  the  wild- 
est regions  of  the  Alleghany,  removed  miles  from 
any  thing  resembling  n  village ;  and,  to  judge  from 
the  rude  country  round  him,  almost  berond  the  ken 
of  civilized  life: — yet  well  may  he,  (or  rather  his 
wife,)  answer,  "no  matter  where,  so  I  be  still  the 
fiame,  and  what  I  should  be;'*  for  so  it  was  r  the 
gay  courtesy  of  France  was  flouri'^hing  as  cheerily 
on  this  desol.ite  spot,  as  in  its  native  atmosphere  of 
Versailles.  Madame  was  turned  of  fifty  by  her 
look,  short,  strongly  pock-marked,  with  a  snub  nose 
flattened  to  her  face  ;  altogether  so  little  of  a  beauty, 
that  she  passed  in  the  neighbourhood,  that  is,  with- 
in the  adjacent  twenty  miles,  for  a  strong  likeness 
to  a  toothless  superannuated  Poodle,  belonging  to 
a  tavern  on  the  roa«I ;  but  her  manner  was,  **/o«f  a 
fait,  a  la  Parisienne.**  Dinner  was  in  prepara- 
tion, within  a  few  minutes  after  my  arrival,  and  her 
own  history  narrated  during  the  process.  1  asked 
her  if  she  had  no  wish  to  return  to  her  native  coun- 


■    /; 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


1^9 


try:  "Ah  no,"  she  replied,  "one's  coiinlry  is  al- 
ways where  one  can  live:"  she  was  as  conlenlcd  as 
it' she  had  been  cradled  in  (lie  desjart.  During  din- 
ner, IVIonsienr  came  in,  and  having  quielly  made  his 
bow,  waH  deposiled  in  the  chimney  corner,  whence 
be  was  again  in  due  time  passively  transferred  to 
bed  :  it  was  evident  he  had  acquired  little  knowledge 
of  the  "  rights  of  man,"  since  his  domestication  in  a 
repidtiick  :  in  tart,  neither  he  nor  his  wife  nnder- 
stood  a  word  of  English  :  but  she  dti^pised  the  Ameri- 
cans for  their  ignorance  of  etiquette,  and  of  the  legi- 
timate mode  of  fricaseeing  a  chicken.  The  mother's 
prejudices,  however,  did  not  seem  to  have  eic^ended 
to  her  family,  whicli  consisted  of  two  danihtf  &,  one 
of  whom  had  married  an  American  fiurut (,  ofj  the 
opposite  side  of  the  river  ;  whilst  the  other,  an  itiler- 
esting  sprightly  lass  of  seventeen,  filled  tli^  ofill/  es 
of  interpreter,  chainbermnid,  and  waiter,  fo  tlie  hotel ; 
milked  the  cows,  and  looked  after  the  pig.  mii]  poui- 
try.  In  all  this,  she  was  the  soni  of  !;i'vcfy  ;  pier<- 
sure  seemed  to  gush  from  the  fonnt.fi.j  of  i.»  r  natu- 
ral spirit,  and  she  was  evidently  bepJ  .s^itj-fied  v>\ih 
herself,  when  she  saw  others  sali!>ried ;  a  L^^Irikisis; 
contrast  fo  American  giils  in  the  same  s;<hpre  t-i' 
life.  By  these  the  traveller  is  received  v,  iih  rlondy 
Bulkiness,  or  at  least  with  phlegmalick  iiidiirL'ienre; 
their  attendance  is  as  mec  hanically  coM  as  ."ups- 
have  been  that  of  the  domchiit  k  statues  o5  Viilcaii's 
household  :  one  would  say  water  circulated  tu  l^esi* 
veins  instead  of  blood.  True  it  is,  this  frost  ot  (he 
spiiils  checks  the  plant  steiniiij;ly  indigenous  in  the 
female  busoai, — vanit)  ;  but  woman's  vanity  ]■<  Mie 
parent  of  so  much  that  is  lovelies!  in  ')cr,  ihaJ  il  h 
ill  exchanged  for  the  unnflccted  rusticity  of  vulgar 
life.  Do  }ou  inquire  of  these  damsels  fo;-  lefrosh- 
ment,  the  odds  are,  that  you  are  answered  by  a  kind 
of  monosyllabick  grunt,  or  some  siicl  delicate  pbia so 
as  "  Mother,  the  man  wants  to  aai  ;" — and  the  eter- 
nal process  of  frying  beefstakrs  commences.  This 
unengaging  macner  see;:n!:j  ihe  characteristic  k  of  the 


^t 


m 


.»! 


;vi,',  ■f^— '■-'^fcM'N,  ' 


160 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADRLPMI A^ 


\>l 


'11 


:\. 


■it. 


lower  classes  of  American  females.  Tbc  married 
women  are,  I  think,  a  sli-ide  sulkier  than  the  single, 
but  the  difference  is  very  trifling.  The  men,  al- 
thou(;h  liltle  chargeable  with  an  excess  of  gayety, 
have  more  vivacity  of  manner  than  the  women  ;  and 
as  there  are  few  of  them  who  are  not  well-informed, 
(at  least  on  local  subjects,)  they  have  altogether 
more  advantage  over  their  fair  moiietis,  in  the  mere 
agrfiinens  of  society,  than   men  usually  possess. 

The  banks  of  i'.a  Susquehanna  have  no  great  va- 
riety of  scenery,  though  they  frequer.tly  present 
grauil  features.  The  space  betwixt  the  mountains 
and  the  river,  is  often  so  narrow,  that  it  barely  sufli- 
ces  for  one  carriage,  and  in  many  places  the  road, 
for  a  mile  or  two,  seems  to  have  been  hewn  from  the 
rock  :  shoultl  two  carriages  meet  in  one  of  these  pas- 
ses, it  is  difficult  to  imagine  by  what  contrivance 
they  could  be  extricated  ;  the  population  of  this  tract 
of  country  is,  however,  so  scanty,  that  a  dilemma  of 
this  kind  would  be  a  phenomenon  in  travelling.  Oc- 
casionally round  the  creeks,  there  is  some  tolerable 
land,  and  two  or  three  pleasant  villages  ;  among 
which,  Wyalusing  may,  perhaps,  image  out  what 
Wyoming  was;  but  it  cannot  be  said  that  the  deer 
"  unhunled  seeks  his  woods  and  wilderness  again  ;'* 
— for  I  heard  a  cry  of  hounds  as  I  stopped  to 
breakfast,  and  the  game  was  swimming  the  river. 
The  face  of  the  landscape  is  no  where  bare  :  moun- 
tain and  vale  are  alike  cloathed  with  pine,  and  dwarf 
or  scrub  oak  ;  the  swamp  lands  aic  covered  with 
hemlock,  and  the  bottoms  of  the  woods  with  the 
rhododendron.      I  was   informed    that    land    in    this 

Cart  of  the  country,  though  naturally  very  poor,  had 
een  so  much  improved  of  late  by  the  use  of  gyp- 
sum, that  its  value  was  raised  from  five  to  fifteen 
dollars   per  acre. 

Wilkesbarre  is  a  neat  town,  regularly  laid  out  on 
the  left  bank  of  the  Susipiehanna.  Its  locality  is 
determined  bv  the  direction  of  one  of  the  Allegany 
ridges,  which  receaei  from  the  courie  of  (he  river 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


161 


narried 

1  single, 

len,  al- 

gayety, 

?n ;  and 

iformed, 

logethev 

he  mere 

ma. 

rreat  va- 
present 

loiintains 

ely  suffi- 

he   road, 

from  the 

liese  paa- 

ntrivance 

thiii  tract. 

ilemma  of 

ins;.  Oc- 
tulerable 
;   amon^ 

out   what 

the  deer 

again  ','*  • 

pped    to 

he   river. 

|e  :  moiin- 
md  dwarf 
!red  with 
with  the 
in  this 
>oor,  had 
of  gyp- 
[o   fifteen 

id  out  on 
)caUty  i« 
[Allegany 
1  (he  river 


a  few  miles  above  the   (ow 


n,   and   curvmg 


s.  w. 


encloses  a  seiniciic.iilar  plot  of  land,  tuuurds  the 
centre  of  which  it  is  buiil.  Its  neighbuurhuud 
abounds  in  cual.^  The  piU  are  about  a  mile  N.  E. 
of  ihe  lowii.  They  lie  uniler  s(ia!a  of  a  soft  clay- 
slate,  containing  impressions  of  ferns,  oak  leaves,  and 
other  vegetables  usu.illy  found  in  such  situations. 
Tiie  coal  has  a  briglii,  poli^siied  a|ipearani'e  ;  its 
strata  are  slightly  angulni  ;  I  hey  routain  iron,  pyrites, 
and  salt-pe(re,  and  are  traversed  by  veins  of  char- 
coal. The  theory  of  the  foimation  of  coal,  from  de- 
cayed tinii)er,  is  slrennitliened  by  a  view  of  ttie  site 
of  these  pits.  The  ri\er  A  lia\ing  descended  S. 
E.  suddenly  changes  its  diicction  jusi  above  the 
town,  and  runs  S.  \V.  as  if  f'orceil  lo  this  deviadoUi 
by  the  mountain  B.  Now,  as  all  the  land  round  the 
town,  including  these  pits,  is  an  alluvion,  raiseil  but 
a  few  feet  above  the  present  hed  of  tlu,*  river,  it  is 
nt''ural  lo  suppovie  that  its  anrient  ciurent  must  have 
deposileii  the  liuiber,  and  oilier  substances  it  brought 
with  it,  in  the  angle  foiiii«il  liy  Ihe  coiir»e  oi  the 
ridge   B,    i.  e,   in    (he   neighbourhood   of  the    coal 


f 


*  OrUio  kiod  called  i^luico  riial. 
21 


]62 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PUiLADELPHI A. 


The  town  iself  has  a  quiet,  rural  aspect,  from  the 
frequent  separation  of  its  streets  and  houses,  by  grass 
fields  and  gardens.  It  confains  a  neat  church,  allot- 
ted to  the  alternate  use  of  Episcopalians  and  Presby- 
terians. The  Town  Hall  was  occupie<l  on  the  Sun- 
day of  rny  visit  by  the  Methodists,  ro  whom  a  shoe- 
maker was  expounding  the  doclrine  of  life,  with 
great  slrenffth  of  lungs,  and  an  energy  which  frequent- 
ly persuades  by  seeming  persuaded. 

Wilkesbarre  is  classic k  gioiunl  to  an  English- 
man: it  is  built  on  the  site  of  Wyoming:  a  small 
mound  is  pointed  out  near  the  river,  on  which  stood 
the  Fort;  and  the  incursion  of  the  Indian?^,  when 
most  of  the  inhabitants  fell  in  an  unsuccessful  battl,«, 
is  still  remembered.  Some  few  escaped  by  swim- 
ming the  river,  and  (led  naked  through  the  woods  foi* 
sever?!  days,  till  they  reached  the  nearest  settle- 
ment;— and  this  is  all  the  record  of  Albert  an«l  Ger- 
trude. The  lover  of  poetry,  who  would  half  realize 
the  fictions  of  the  muse,  on  the  spot  which  she  has  (ilo- 
rified  with  the  creations  of  her  fancy,  cannot  help 
regretting  that  the  bard  should  have  helped,  in  some 
degree,  to  destroy  the  illusion,  by  introducing  in  hil 
descriptions  features  of  scenery  as  foreign  to  Penn- 
sylvania, as  the  sweetly-meditstive  Gertrude  herself, 
who,  had  she  been  as  solid  a  reality  as  any  bnxoia 
lass  of  Wilkesbarre,  must  have  been  content  to  lack 
the  bright  plumage  of  the  *'  Flamingo,"  the  **  palm 
trees*  shade,"  the  "aloes,"  and  even  the  roaring 
waterfall,  for  the  falls  near  Wilkesbarre  are  ledges  of 
rock,  merely  sufficient  to  break  the  current. — Yet 
Wyoming  shall  outlive  the  name  and  splendour  of 
many  a  bloiited,  burgess-fattening  city,  "and  still 
look  green  in  song." 

Sweet  Wyoming,  though  none  he  left  to  (ell 
The  beauty  of  lliy  day*  to  future  men. 

How  Itlest  when  peareful  Albert  ruPd  thy  slen, 
And  Gertrude  was  thy  flowV,  yet  ■halt  Ihou  dwell, 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADBLPHI A.  163 

And  bloom  through  nges,  for  with  charm  and  spell        r 
Wreaths  <»('  imm«)rtal  liri<;htiieaB  have  been  flun<!;, 
Gililiiig  thy  ruin — ami  a  jjifJed  shell 

Thy  l-tle  of  destjlutiun  halh  outrun;; 
With  melodie?.  on  uhirh  the  soul  reposes, 
Like  eastern  l)ulliuls  oVr  Caslunerian  rt»^^'8; — 
Ami  liriglil  eyes  hnve  wept  uVrlhee,  am!  shall  weep. 
Till  nature  has  grown  ruthless  in  all   hi.irla, 
And  pity,  angel-plumM.  to  heav'n  departs: 
For  thou  in  IVeedoin's  huruUig  field  didst  reap 
A  deadty  harveal,  therefore  shall  ihy  sleep 
Be  hallowM,  and  thy  name,  a  star  oVr  glory's  steep. 

At  WilkeHliarre  the  road  quits  the  Susquehanna, 
and  a»rendin<;  the  ridge  i  have  mentioned,  (marked  in 
the  m:ip'4  as  tnoiint  Ararat,)  croHses  several  heads 
of  the  Lehigh,  through  heavy  lorestH,  and  hemlock 
Bwuinps,  very  sparingly  interHpecMed  with  settlements. 
There  in  a  neat  inn,  kept  liy  an  Engliithman  of  the 
name  of  Wraj;,  about  seventeen  miles  from  Wilkes- 
barre  ;  I  slopped  there  to  liine,  and  could  have  wish- 
ed thai  the  stage  had  been  long  enongh  for  a  ilay'8 
jonrnev,  for  I  Wt.i  much  pleased  with  the  looks  of 
Mr.  Wr.ig's  Imuse,  and  more  with  those  of  iiis 
daughter,  on  whose  cheek  "  the  rose  of  England 
bioo'iieil"  luxuriantly,  anti  more  sweetly  in  my  eye, 
for  being  a  rose  of  my  «)wn  rounlry.  My  regret  was 
not  diu)inis|ied  wlier)  I  reached  by  moonlight  the  end  of 
niv  day's  travel,  on  the  summit  of  the  Pokono  Monn- 
^  tain,  whose  gradual  decli\ilies  are  bare  of  timber, 
''more  like  an  English  heath  than  an  American  moun- 
tain. The  wretchetl  auberge  was  undergoing  a  refit, 
which  leit  but  one  dirty  little  tap.room  to  sit  in,  and 
a  half-finislied  rhamber,  through  which  the  night 
breezes  sanz  cheeri'y  :  the  fare  was  bad  in  pro|>orlion, 
and  the  landlady's  temper  in  iiniHon  with  the  whole; 
though  an  old  croney  of  the  house  whispered  me  in 
the  morning,  that  it  was  beyond  comparison  the  best 
tavern  on  the  road- 


m 


^1 


164 


BLACK    ROCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


The  Pukunu  Muiintain  is  ramous  among  tlie  sports- 
men and  epicures  o(  Pliiladeipliia  lor  its  groni>e  : 
like  all  the  Alleu;liany  ridges,  it  is  gleepe^t  on  the 
eastern  side.  I  parsed  ihe  Bine  Ritlge  at  the  stu- 
pendous fissure  of  the  Wind  Gap,*  where  the  moun- 
tain seems  forcibly  broken  thioup,h,  and  is  strewed 
with  the  ruin  of  rorks.  There  is  a  similar  aperture 
some  miles  N.  K.  called  the  Water  Cap;  which  af- 
fords a  passage  to  Ihe  Dtlaware.  All  the  piiiicipal 
rivers  of  the  States,  which  rise  in  the  Alleghaiiies, 
pass  through  similar  apertures,  a  peculiarity  1  had 
afterwards  an  opporliinily  of  obseiving  in  the  passage 
of  the  Potomac.  Betwixt  the  Blue  Hidge  and  the 
Lehigh  the  road  traverses  the  Limestone  Valley,  de- 
scribed by  Volney,  t.  1.  p.  tit'.,  but  which  he  seems 
erroneously  to  circumscribe  by  the  Blue  Ridge,  and 
the  North  Mountain,  whereas  it  lies  betwixt  the 
Blue  Ridge  and  the  Lehigh  Ridge,  as  he  himself  in- 
dicates by  the  names  ot  Easton,  Bethlehem,  and  Naza- 
reth, within  its  limit.  The  two  latter  are  Moravian 
settlements  :  there  is  a  thiid  about  a  mile  and  a  half 
from  Nazareth,  which,  though  small,  exceeds  both 
the  others,  in  my  opinion,  in  the  calm  and  pensive 
beauty  of  ils-«ppearurce.  The  houses,  like  all  with- 
in its  valley,  are  built  of  limestone :  they  are  all 
upon  a  similar  plan,  and  have  their  window-frames, 
doors,  &c.  painted  of  a  fawn-colour :  before  each 
are  planted  weeping  willows,  \ihose  luxuriant  shade 
seems  to  shut  out  worldly  glare,  and  throws  an  air  of 
Dioiiastick  repose  over  the  whole  \illnge. 

Mr.  Morse,  in  his  description  of  Peiinsylvanin.  has 
given  a  detailed  account  of  the  Mora\ian  seltlementg ; 
and  the  inimitable  pen  of  Mad.  de  Siael  has  reveal- 
ed, and  perhaiis  ado:ned,  the  spirit  of  llieir  institu- 
tions. (l)e  L  Allemagne,  t.  iii.  p.  iv.  c.  li.  Du  culte 
des  t^^^es  Moraves.")  I  transcribe  a  single  pas- 
sage, for  the  faithful  picture  it  presents: 

*  Granular^quartx  scvuis  llio  prcduniiualing  rock  at  this  gap. 


BLACK    KOCK    TO    PHILADELPHIA. 


165 


e  sports- 

gfoiise  : 

t  on   the 

tl.e   9t»i- 

\\v.  iiioun- 

gtiewed 

aprrtiire 

whirl*  af- 

pi  iiicipal 

leghanies, 

iiy  1    had 

le  pussace 

and   the 
alley,  de- 
he  seems 
liilge,  and 
iwixt    Ihe 
liin^elf  io- 
aiul  Naza- 
Moraviaii 
and  a  half 
eeds  both 
tl   pensive 
.e  all  with- 
I'y   are    all 

w-fiainea, 
fore  each 
lant  shade 
Is  an  air  of 

ivania,  hs.s 
lltlenit'i'ts; 
lias  reveal- 

ir  inatitu- 
l)n  cnlte 

lingle  pas- 


»t  this  gap. 


'  "  Les  m<ii»ons  i^t  leg  riifs  sont  «l'»ne  proprele  iiarfnite  :  - 
FiP3  l".inm»*s,  l(»iil«'8  ii,tl»il!eet(  ^\v  nieine,  cachfiM  li-ur  clie- 
veiix,  el  C(>i;j;iHMit  Icur  '£te  avec  iiii  riilian  doiil  Uacuuleurs 
iii(li(|tiprit  si  I'lles  eont  niiirieos,  filial  on  veuves  :  le»  hotn- 
ine^  8  tilt  veins  de  brim,  a  peu  I'res  euiiime  les  Quakers. 
IJiie  iiuhislrie  mercantile  lea  oecupe  presipje  tuus ;  mais 
on  ireiileiid  |iiia  le  moiiulre  bruit  dana  la  villatre.  Oharun 
travaille  aver  rt  inilarit^  et  traii(|uiHitC' ;  et  Taction  interi- 
«Mire  (Its  sentiments  religieux  appaise  toute  autre  inouve- 
nient." 

1  had  not  an  opportunity  of  witnessing  their  church 
service,  wlijch  is,  as  she  descrihex,  celebrated  with 
singin-4,  and  ii  band  of  wind  irit-ilritiiM-nts,  but  I  at- 
tended a  meeting  which  the  inhabitantji  of  Beilile- 
h^-tn  co/imionl^  hoUl  every  evening,  in  an  a|)artiiient 
aitjoining  the  churcli,  lor  the  joint  pinpo?es  of 
atnnscfiienl  and  de\otii)n.  The  vvomen  «(.«'  ranged 
at  one  end  ot  the  room,  the  men  af  the  o'l  er:  tlieir 
bishop  presidetl ; — but  let  me  not  riii«!«'.id  by  the 
term  ;  he  had  not  so  niiicli  as  a  wig.  wheievvitli  to 
support  his  Fipisropal  dignity,  Imt  was  an  old  man, 
drest  in  the  plainest  manner,  with  u  coiinienance  sin- 
gularly niihl  and  placid:  Pan!  Vcroiif -e  might  liave 
chosen  him  for  Ihe  "  beloved  disciple,"  only  a  linic  ad- 
Tanced  in  years — he  gave  out  Ihe  psaln>,  and  led  Mie 
quire  :  the  singing  was  alternately  in  (jierman  and  liti- 
glish,  and  I  have  still  Ihe  good  Bishop's  voice  in  my 
ear,  when  he  gave  out, 

"  O  delightful,  past  expreasion, 
"  My  Kedeemcr  died  lor  me." 

It  is  an  Idle  question,  and  yet  one  likely  enough 
to  obtrude  itself,  "what  wonUI  become  of  the  vvoild 
were  all  its  inhabitants  Moraviaiis  ?"  The  breath  of 
the  passions  would  have  i  cn^ed  to  stir  ihe  ocean  of 
life:  urls  of  general  utility  noiild  proceed  viilhoiit 
the  check  of  many  of  our  liabils  :  disease  would  gra- 
dually >  ield  to  scicnlifick  improveinenls,  and  the 
temperate  enjoymrnt  of  plenty  :  alxo,  as  inornl  and 
prudential  reslrainls  would  have  (heir  full  eil'ecl,  Ihe 


HI 


1 


I     1 


.'  '/ 


166 


BLACK    ROCK    OF    PHILADELPHIA. 


Ni 


ImiJ 

'ill 

il 

l( 

IP' 

f 

increase   of   population    would    be    constantly    kept 
within    the    lin)ils    of    subsistence.       A    period    will 
therefore  have  arrived,  when   late  marriages   must  be 
universal  :    the    most    active    portion    of    man's    life 
must  in  consequence  be    spent   in   leisure. — By  what 
objects  will   his  mental   energies  in    this  situation   be 
excited  ?     Our  hypothesis  excludes   ambition,   glory 
and    interest;    necessity    excludes   love;  the   former 
would   destroy   the  principles  of  a   society   founded 
on  equality  and    peace  ;    the   early  indulgence  of  the 
latter,    would    poison    them    with    want.       Shall    the 
energies  of  mind  be  stilled,  to  prevent   their  abuse? 
they    will    be    replaced    by    physical    instincts,    and 
brutal    force.     There   is    one   object  of   speculation 
left  in    unison   with    Moravian  principles, — religion  ; 
but  in  a  cotnmunity  in  which  all  men  occupied    their 
thoughts  on  one  subject,  would  they  all  think  alika  on 
it?  or  could  their  dilTerences  of  opinion  coalesce  with 
the   general   tranquillity  ?       History   is    not  silent  on 
this    point:    that    of   the    Greek   empire    intorms    us 
what  would  be  the  destiny  of  a  nation  of  theologians  : 
So  that  if  a  succession  of  miracles  were  to  establish 
Moravianism,  by  destroving  all  principles  of  our   na- 
ture hostile  to  its   foundation,  it   would  require  ano- 
ther succession  of  miracles  to  preserve   it  from   sui- 
cide. 

The  Lehigh  mountain  is  the  last  of  the  Alleghany 
ridges ;  the  country  is  thenceforth  level,  fertile,  and 
(hickly  inhabited  by  steady  Germans,  in  broad  hats, 
and  purple  breeches,  whose  houses  and  villages  have 
the  antique  fashion  of  a  Flemish  landscape.  Ger- 
man is  so  generally  spoken,  that  the  news|ii>pers,  and 
publick  notices,  are  all  in  that  language.  The  roads 
arc  of  a  deep  miry  clay,  through  which  the  country 
waggons,  with  their  long  fat  teams,  plod  on  seeming- 
ly at  their  ease,  but  it  fareil  very  ditlerenlly  with  my 
light  vehicle.  The  approach  to  Philadelphia  is  an- 
nounced by  a  good  turnpike  roatl.  German-Town  is 
a  large  suburb  to  the  city,  and  the  traveller  here 
feels  himself  within  the  precincts  of  a  populous  and 
long  eatabliifhed  capital. 


i\ 


»      . 


!  r 


(    U7   ] 


IJ 


t^IlAFTER   XXV. 


•♦,,  1 


I'H'I-VDrLPHlA. 
"hiladklphi  \  is  q«  ^.     I 

^'"•ecurai  ,.„„,,,,,;.  rni?"r'"'"^''  of  f<"  ■">  «- 

"verse.     La-t-e  .o„l  h  ,  ''"'  '^"'"  »«  for  ll,e 

"b-urdi,^  ,„  ,,„,,•  I'j^"      ''"f  I'een  as  singular  an 
'ave  bu  It  (he  l,oi„r.  '^^'^  "ookcd,  as  to 

»l.ould  be  more  i...  p^,',  ^,;"^"'"''--  ""iformiiv 
•lie  sireers  of  Plj.lad:^ ?■  "'""  '  ""ilioear.     All 

"•"-7  of  .l.en,,  as  S    S;';'2  "f"-"-.  ^  -he  na.es^o 
''■•J  <l.eir  .>lva„  oris  „    "J;,,!-   f"""'-  ''"•^•"'<.  &0.  re- 
poplars,  wiia  „!,;,,,  J,,   '.  "  "' '^^ '•»;"  o'  l-ombardv 
«vol,.„on   in  favour  „7     e'e ti;   '''  '""' »  «e™nd 
iouse,  are  chara.rerized   bv    ''         ,      ' '"    '•"'"'o 
"ep.  and  window  sill,  of  ^       *=""'  ""'ne,, ;  ,be 
"»;ble.  and  i,„ve  1,    '    1T2."\  W"'  "'^  "<  ^'4 
The  slreel,  are  c.ref,,!  y  'U  ,,'"'  ^"'T  ""'  <'°«" 
?»"».  Khicb  are  pa,ed\rirT,      ■■  1'  "'"  ""^  "-^  fool- 
'•»'  >i»ld  in  displ.^^   o  ,!,„  e  of";''-  ,  '■'-  "'"P"  do 

"»'  of  «l.e  Bapli  .    bo  Z"';'^^"  »«  '«»<  l.ul  plain  ; 


168 


PHILADELPHIA. 


I 


,*.' 


y     f 


of  winp;^,  separated  by  an  lonick  colonnade,  which 
form-  (lin  enliance,  and  is  crowned  by  Iwo  cupolas; 
the  whole  is  of  hriik  *  the  diameter  of  the  rotunda  la 
HO  r<'(;»,  the  wiMs  arc  .OO  feet  from  the  'jiirouiid,  and 
ail!  sdrmountnd  by  three  steps  before  the  swell  of  the 
do'ne,  wtii'-li  rises  at  an  ani^Ie  of  Ijo.  The  building 
is  <;;d<:iil,itetl  lo  liohl  2, .000  persons. 

The  Masonick  ilill  is  an  awkward  co;nbination  of 
brlcii  and  marble,  in  the  Gulhick  style  ;  (hal  ii^,  plen- 
tifully "  tricked  and  frounced"  with  niches,  pinna- 
cles, and  battlements,  and  a  spire  {50  fet'l  hi^h.  One 
would  tliink  it  were  easy  to  catch  the  spirit  of  Goth- 
ick  architecture,  which  seems  to  be  a  combination  of 
luxuriant  decoration  with  imposin;;  grandejr ;  no  ef- 
fori  perfectly  succeeds,  which  separates  these  quali- 
ties ;  there  is,  perhaps,  besides  the  nieetinsi;  tojijelher 
of  the  awful  and  (he  graceful,  an  association  of  other 
feelnij!;s,  connected  with  their  union  ;  it  siippu-^es  a 
great  exertion  of  power  in  cost  and  labour,  anti  ifleas 
of  power  approxitn.ite  to  the  sublitne.  Giand«'ur  of 
desi<rn,  however  unadorned,  and  ioiprrfect  in  (he 
means  of  doint;  justice  to  its  coiict^piiotts,  nnist  still 
retain  the  inspirini;  preros;alivc  of  genius,  but  to  lavish 
Golhick  ornaments  on  a  piginy  building,  is  like  over- 
whehning  a  child  with  the  armour  of  Guy,  earl  of 
Warwick. 

The  Philadelphia  bank  is  in  the  same  ridicnioiis 
taste  with  the  iVI  isoniok  Hall,  bating  the  absurdity  of 
the  spire  :  but  the  United  Stales  and  Pennsylvania 
binks  are  (he  fniest  buildings  in  the  city  :  the  first 
has  a  handso.ue  portico,  with  Corinthian  colutnns  of 
white  marble,  as  is  the  front  of  the  building.  The 
Pennsylvania  bank  is  a  miniature  of  (he  temple  of 
Minerva  at  Athens,  and  is  the  purest  specimen  of 
architccure  in  the  Slates  :  the  whole  building  is  of 
marble  ;  the  front  extends  M  feet,  and  the  entire  depth 
of  the  building,  including  the  front  and  back  porlh'os, 
is  ViF}  feet :  the  shafts  of  the  columns  are  three  feet 
in  diameter.     The  limplicity  of  one  portico  is  soine- 


ti.L 


e,  which 
cupolas ; 
ot inula  is 
iinti,  and 
ell  of  the 
I  building 

nation  of 
I  is,  plen- 
's,  pirina- 
ilj.     One 
"of  Golh- 
jination  of 
IV  ;  no  f;f-. 
lese  qnali- 
Qf  tojreiher 
m  ol  other 
iH»pu'«e8  a 

and  ideas 
und«'Ui'  of 
d  in  the 
,  must  still 

(  folnvish 
ike  over- 

y,  earl  of 

ridiculous 
surdity  of 
insylvania 
the  first 
)luinns  of 
ig.     The 
temple  of 
ciinen  of 
ling  18  of 
ire  depth 
porticoSy 
hree  feet 
is  some- 


PHILAPBLPHIA. 


169 


^flLit  injured  by  windows,  but  the  whole  effect  is 
Sighly  pleasing,  and  Mr.  Latrobe  deserves  the  grati- 
tude of  the  city  for  his  taste  in  the  selection  of  a  mo- 
del.  which  cannot  but  have  a  favourable  effect  on  the 
style  of  future  edifices.  An  Athenian  from  the 
shades  could  object  little  to  the  design  of  this  build- 
ing,  nor  would  he  greatly  err  as  to  the  appiopiiaiion 
of  what  he  would  naturally  deem  a  temple  ;  so  it  is  ; 
the  deity  alone  is  changed,  Mammon  lor  Minerva : 
each  passion  of  our  nature  has,  m  its  turn,  been  *'  lord 
of  the  aitcendant ;"  and  temples,  castles,  banks,  have 
in  succession  been  consecrated  by  the  superstition, 
ambition,  and  avarice  of  mankind. 

The  State-house  is  a  plain  brick  buiMin*;,  finished 
in  1735,  at  the  cost  of  6000/.  The  noblest  leroMec- 
tions  of  America  are  attached  to  it.  The  Con<zress 
sat  in  it  during  the  greater  part  of  the  war,  and  the 
Declaration  of  Independence  was  read  from  its  steps, 
July  4th,  1776.  The  Federal  Convention  also  sal  in 
it,  in  1787.  It  is  now  occupied  by  the  supreme  and 
district  courts  below,  and  r<  ale*s  uiusaeum  above. 
This  musaeum  contains  a  collection  of  preserved 
birds  and  animals,  minerals,  Indian  arms  and  dresses, 
and  a  long  line  of  ill-favoured  portraits,  by  a  Mr. 
Rembrandt  Peale  ;^  but  the  most  interesting  object 
is  an  entire  skeleton  of  the  Mammoth,  or  great  Mas- 
todo.i,  discovered  by  the  exertions  ot  Mr  Peale,  the 
founder  and  proprietor  of  the  musaeum,  in  the  Slate 
of  New  York,  in  1801.  His  son  published  an  a<  count 
of  it  in  Loniion  the  same  year ;  1  extract  the  princi- 
pal diuicnsious  : 


Feet.    indiM. 

Height  over  the  shoulders. 

11     0 

Do.  over  the  hips, 

0     0 

*  B7  the  bye,  thin  nominal  union  of  the  illu«trioii!«  dead  witli 
the  ignoble  living,  i%  very  bad  taste.  In  Gvorgn  'rnwn,  lliure 
is  a  perfumer  called  Uomulus  Uijjgs,  and  we  have  a  Juuiuu  Bru- 
tus Booth. 


-s  -«. 


•KL 


Feet. 

luchfj. 

15 

0 

31 

0 

17 

tf 

5 

8 

2 

3 

4 

7 

10 

7 

1 

6  12 

irU  PHILAUELPHIA. 

Length  t'rom  the  chin  to  the  rump, 
From  the  poiat  of  the  tusks  to  the 

end  of  the   tail,  following  the 

curve, 
In  a  straight  line, 
Width  of  the  hips  and  body. 
Length  of  the  longest  vertebra, 
Of  the  longest  rib, 
Of  the  tusks  or  horns, 
Circumlerence  of  one  tooth, 
Weiiiht  of  {he  same,  4  lb.  10  oz. 
Whole  skeleton  weighs  lOUU  lb. 


This  enormous  animal  fabrick  is  placed  at  the  end 
of  one  of-  the  apartmenis,  wilii  several  tigures  of  men 
near  it,  proliably  to  mark  the  contrast  of  their  dimen- 
sions. The  human  stature  is,  indeed,  pigmean  be- 
side it,  but  there  is  another,  and  still  more  striking 
point,  under  which  it  may  be  considered.  It  moved 
and  had  it<)  bein.;,  when  all  that  is  of  human  institu- 
tion was  not  ;  for  though  tiie  situation  and  state  in 
which  the  bones  were  discovered,  may  lead  ns  to  con- 
clude, that  the  catastrophe  by  which  its  race  was 
destroyed,  was  more  recent  than  those  revolutions  of 
Nature  which  have  disturbed  the  frame-work  of  the 
globe,  it  must  si  ill  have  been  suflSciently  sudden  and 
violent  to  destroy  all  the  living  species  of  the  earth. 
The  wall-like  ridges  of  the  Alleghanie»,  with  the  gaps 
or  fissures,  through  which  the  principal  rivers  de- 
scend at  ris;ht  angles  to  them,  afford  strong  support 
to  the  hypothesis  of  M.  Volney,  that  these  ridges 
once  inclosed  lakes,  which  have  been  drained  by  the 
escape  of  the  present  rivers.  This  drain  might,  in- 
deed, have  been  affected  by  the  gradual  wearing 
through  of  their  mountain  breaches,  as  Lake  Erie 
may,  in  the  course  of  ages,  be  drained  by  the  action 
of  the  Falls  of  Niagara  ;  in  this  case,  however,  no 
entire  species  of  animals  would  have  been  involved 
in  destruction  ;  each  would  have  retired  from  the 
gradual  swelling  of  the  waters  in  its  neighbourhood : 


t. 
5 

0 

1 

0 

7 

6 

5 

8 

2 

3 

4 

7 

10 

7 

PHILADELPHIA. 


in 


on  the  contrary,  should  this  revolution  have  been  the 
eiTect  of  some  sudden  natural  convulsion,  such  a 
shock  would  have  been  sufilcieiit  to  destroy  man  and 
his  works,  supposing  the  tinman  race  to  have  tlien 
existed,  and  to  have  given  that  impulsion  to  the  At- 
lantick,  which  incrusied  in  polar  ice  the  Mammoth 
of  Siberia. 


§    2. — THE    FINE    ARTS. 

Philadelphia  contains  an  Academy  of  the  Fine 
Arts,  founded  in  liM).'>  by  voluntary  contribution, 
and  soon  after  incorporated  by  the  Legislature.  It 
has  a  handsome  building,  containing  rounis  for  draw- 
ing and  publick  exhibitions.  In  the  hall  of  statuary, 
besides  numerous  casts,  are  several  pleasing  pieces 
of  Italian  sculpture,  particularly  two  Bacchantes. 
The  picture-gallery  contains  several  excellent  pic- 
tures of  (he  old  masters,  and  a  large  collection  of  the 
modern.  It  is  injudicious  to  place  them  side  by 
lide.  American  artists  seem  to  think  that  to  paint 
largely  is  to  paint  well :  much  good  colour  and  can- 
vass are  thereby  lost. 

It  is  not  surprising  that  painting  should  iiare  made 
inch  feeble  progress,  not  only  in  America,  but  in 
modern  Europe  generally  ;  feeble,  with  reference  to 
the  perfection  of  the  art,  for  of  correct  and  graceful 

Eainting  there  is  no  want  ;  wealth  will  create  so  far  ; 
ut  the  sublime  is  the  production  of  enthusiasm  only, 
and  our  social  system  contains  no  qualities  by  which 
an  artist's  enthusiasm  may  be  either  inspired,  or  re- 
warded. It  is  true  that  many  painters  are  correct- 
ly said  to  be  enthusiastically  fond  of  their  profes* 
sion,  as  many  readers  are  of  poetry,  who  woidd  not 
therefore  make  excellent  poets  :  the  mind,  compelled 
to  one  occupation,  will  commonly  become  disgusted 
or  devoted  :  habit  engenders  attachment  ;  this  is 
professional  enthusiasm.     But  there  is  another   kind, 


172 


PHILADELPHIA. 


,  r 


hfv'" 


of  a  more  expansive  and  intellectual  character;  oc- 
cu|)ying  ilsjelf,  not  upon  the  profession,  but  upon  the 
Bubjecls  of  the  profession ;  and  this  is  even  more  es- 
sential than  the  former,  in  as  niurh  as  the  ablest 
painter  can  go  no  further  than  tht  perfect  delineation 
of  his  own  conceptions  ;  so  that  it  these  be  cold  or 
inadequate,  the  pertormance  must  sufier  in  the  same 
proportion.  Here  seenis  to  be  the  parting  pomi  be- 
twixt ancient  and  modern  artists.  We  have  no  re- 
mains of  Grecian  painting,  but  the  analogy  of  sculp- 
ture will  illustrate  my  remark.  The  Greek  slatuary 
inigbt  easily  persuade  himself  that  the  divine  image 
he  had  cloathed  with  majesty  and  beauty,  would  not 
only  be  an  object  of  adoration  to  his  fellow  citizens, 
but  might  even  become  the  material  dwelling-place 
of  the  Deity,  whose  lineafients  he  had  worthily  ex- 
pressed :  while  the  heroes,  who  were  indebted  to  the 
gratitude  of  their  countrymen,  for  a  seat  among  the 
immortals,  must  be  contented  to  owe  to  his  chisel  the 
form  and  features  of  their  divinized  existence.  If 
the  ancients  deified  human  nature,  their  artists  and 
poets  were  the  high-priests  of  the  apotheosis. 

The  great  burst  of  talent  with  which  painting  has 
adorned  the  Christian  world,  shewed  itself  in  Italy  : 
the  Christian  mythology  supplied  the  place  of  the 
gods  of  Paganism  ;  saints  and  martyrs  tliat  of  Her- 
cules and  Theseus  ;  but  the  strength  of  enthusiasm 
was  the  same,  and  perhaps  more  nearly  simiLr  than 
the  Protestant  inhabitants  of  Northern  Europe  may 
be  able  readily  to  imagine.  It  is  a  well  known  anec- 
dote, that  painters  frequently  partook  of  the  sacra- 
ment before  they  began  an  altar-piece:  their  finest 
paintings  were,  in  fact,  religious  offerings ;  and  they 
who  patronized  and  applauded,  as  well  as  they  who 
painted,  had  alike  kindled  the  altars  of  their  taste 
with  the  fires  of  religious  zeal.  The  spiritualized 
creed  of  Protestantism  disembodied  the  whole  Po- 
pish mythology:  credulity  was  forced  into  new 
channels,  and  the  artist  who  should  attempt  to  re- 


,  / 


'(: 


m 


PHILADELPHIA. 


17a 


icter;  oc- 
iipon  the 
I  more  es- 
he   ablest 
ielinealion 
3e  cold  or 
the  same 
point  be- 
ive   no  re- 
'  of  atulp" 
L  slaluary 
ine  image 
would  not 
«  citizens, 
lling-place 
irthil>  ex- 
ited to  the 
among  the 
chisel  the 
itence.     If 
irtists  and 
is. 

tinting  has 
in  Italy  : 
ace  of  the 
of  Her- 
nthusiasm 
niiLr  than 
rope  may 
>wn  anec- 
he  sacra- 
leir  finest 
and  they 
they  who 
eir  taste 
itualized 
hole  Po- 
nto  new 
t  to  re- 


animate the  iiifas^es  of  a  belief  no  longer  fashionable, 
would  feel  his  spirit  chilled  in  the  uns^enial  atmos- 
phere ;  and  Kpeediiy  learn  to  exchan^ie  the  delinea> 
tiun  of  Madounuii,  (whoime  virgin  purit)'  some  are 
irreverent  enough  (o  smile  at,  and  almost  ail  are  con- 
tent coldly  to  assent  to,)  for  the  more  lucrative  em- 
pioyinent  of  flattering  living  beauty  :  hence  it  is 
that  our  exhibitions  blaze  with  ladies  of  quality, 
officers  of  hussars,  gentlemen  in  arm-chairs,  and 
other  equally 

"  Vain  attempts  to  g\re  a  deathless  lot 
"  To  names  by  Nature  bora  to  be  forgot." 

It  is  true  that  there  is  enough  of  religion  at  pre- 
sent in  America,  but  it  is,  for  the  most  part,  of  that 
sour  Calvinistick  kind  which  would  damn  St.  Cecilia 
for  a  "pianoforte  playing  strumpet,"  and  put  the 
whole  celestial  hierarchy  into  snuff-coloured  suits, 
and  high  bibs  and  tuckers. 

Nor  are  the  publick  and  political  events  of  mo- 
dern times  less  unpropilious  to  the  artist's  pencil : 
the  Athenian,  or  Roman  painters  addrest  their  per- 
formances to  the  whole  civilized  world,  for  what 
was  there  of  civilization  which  had  not  bowed  to  tiie 
arts  or  arras  of  these  nations  ?  Their  gods  were  the 
gods  of  the  universe :  their  publick  trunsactions  de- 
cided the  fate  of  all  nations,  not  barbarians.  The 
modern  painter  must  expect  that  the  event  which 
he  selects  as  interesting  to  h\f>  own  nation,  will  be 
regarded  at  best  with  indifference,  perhaps  with 
disgust,  by  nine-tenths  of  the  rest  of  mankind. 
There  are  besides  vety  few  publick  events  sus- 
ceptible of  picturesque  *  fTecl :  the  business  of  go- 
vernment is  no  longer  transacted  in  a  publick  forum, 
before  the  asseml)led  people,  with  all  the  accesso- 
ries of  eloquence,  passion,  and  leliiiion:  the  artist 
must  now  giope  his  way  into  the  ministerial  closet, 
thence  to  extract  well-drest  heads,  from  which  feel- 


\" 


174 


FHILAUGLPHIA. 


ing  never  shook  the  powder,  and  transplant  to  his 
canvass  rows  of  vacant,  or  kindly  coiinteiianres, 
looking  over  (he  pirlitioning  of  kingtiotns,  with  rMwh. 
an  air  uh  easy  <j;rocera  cast  up  their  ledgers.  All  is 
calculation;  and  how  can  c.dculnitiou  be  painted? 
Take  two  or  three  subjects  from  Roman  history  by 
way  of  contrast  :  —  1.  Itoratiiis  Codes  singly  de- 
fending (he  bridge  of  the  Janicidiim. — His  coun- 
trymen are  at  work  behind  him,  breaking  down  the 
bridge,  on  the  destruction  of  which  hangs  the  fate 
of  the  youthftd  repiiblick.  Sliatne  to  be  thus  held 
in  check  by  a  single  warriour,  a  sense  of  the  impor- 
tance of  gaining  the  pasi  ere  the  Roiians  have  com- 
pleted their  work,  have  urged  on  the  ti'ruAcans  to 
surround  their  adversary  :  his  shield  is  aire  idy  stuck 
full  of  their  darts,  and  they  are  beginning,  by  budily 
strength,  to  force  him  from  his  post :  at  this  in- 
stant, the  crash  uf  tlie  broken  bridge,  and  the  joyful 
shout  of  the  Kduuh,  foramonent  check  their  attack  : 
then  Codes  exclaims,  "  O  father  Til)er,  1  entreat 
of  thy  Deity  propitiously  to  receive  these  arms, 
and  this  thy  soldier  to  lliv  stream." — 2.  D  iriug 
the  siege  of  Rome  by  the  G.tuls,  Q,iiinttis  Kabius 
1)i>rso  p:isst;s  tlirou^h  the  midst  of  their  army,  in  a 
sacrificial  habit,  bearing  the  sacred  vessels  in  his 
{iiPiis,  to  ptM'foriu  the  riljd  of  his  family  ou  (he 
Collis  Ct'iirinalis,  *'  LIvii  Mist.  I.  v.  c.  46." — Some 
'of  the  (}  luls  s  ;ek  to  terrify  lii'n  with  menacing 
gestures ;  some  point  him  out,  with  astonishment  at 
his  audacity  ;  others  regard  him  with  a  religious  re- 
verence.— '\.  The  death  of  Brutus,  as  described  by 
Vetleius  I'aterculus.  (lis  left  arm  is  raised,  and 
thrown  back  above  his  head  ;  his  right  hand  guides 
the  sword's  point  to  his  heart  :  the  averted  counte- 
nance am'  hesitating  posi  ire  of  his  freedman,  con- 
trast with  the  resolved  and  energetick  attitude  of  the 
hero.  —Of  modern  incidents,  battles  seem  to  be  most 
capable  of  picluresipie  effect  ;  yet  here  the  artist 
encounters  dilHcultios  of  no  trifling  kind.     The  chief 


i, 


PHILAnELPHIA. 


Ui 


interest  is  attached  to  the  leiuler,  who  niiiHt  ronse« 
qiiently  occupy  (lie  centre  of  the  paiiiliii|r  ;  but  a 
general  oflicer  and  his  Hlitti*  are  precisel}'  the  leust 
pictnre!iC|ue,  because  the  niosf  inactive  objecls  in 
the  whole  army.  To  rt'prcsent  a  great  degree  of 
perlurljdiion,  would  be  to  indicate  a  want  of  8elf- 
posr«e>>8iun  :  I  he  painter  is  therefore  retluced  to  a 
kind  of  grt)iipina,  rendered  almost  ridiculous  by  re- 
petition :  lht>  general's  extended  right  aim,  his  while 
horse's  corresponding  raised  leg,  an  aid-ilecamp 
with  his  lial  oil",  on  the  callop,  have  become  the  ine- 
vitable common  pluces  of  bHille-pieces.  Our  bailies 
are  well  suMcd  lo  piinornnias,  l>ecHn<>e,  though  they 
have  much  tiiiiforn)i>y  in  the  detail,  fhr>  tiave  n  oie 
variety  in  the  loultnsetiihle,  than  those  of  liie  an- 
cients. 

In    addition   to    these  general   tlisailvantagps,  piiinl- 
ing  in  America  lias    some   p«!culiar    olii*iaclcs    Jo   ton- 
tend    witti.       The    more    etpial     di\ision    of    wtahh 
leaves  a   less  surplus  to  be    t  xp'iided    :n    the    Inxniy 
ofthearls:   the  etjual   tlivisii)n  of  inheritances  places 
almost   every    man    in  the    necespiiy    of    JiitAinj;    re- 
course to  commert'c,  or  a  pmlt  ssiMi :  ve  cttiiBCCji-enlly 
find   neither   the    idleness   which    et'^'endiis    dissipa- 
tion, nor    the  leisuie   which    cieales    taste. "i^     Again, 
industry   has   loo    many    safe    roads  to  cnn>|  eUnce, 
to  induce  anv  considerable  nianber  of  men  of  talrnti 
to  embarkMl  in  n   protcshii>n,  whose  honours,  like  a 
giMidon  of  chi^ally,  nre  lendtred  ilenrer  lo  the  tiic- 
ce^slid  iiw,  by  the  many  s!icr>ficed  in  ihe  iKhinlnre. 
Thus  the    \ery   advantages  ol   America   tniii  ityainst 
the  arts  ;  nor  would  it,  perhaps,   be  i dining  loo  lar  to 
observe,  that  the   tendency   observable  in  Ameiicnnn 
towards  logical   analysis,  the    natural   result   of   their 
education  and  government,   ll.ough  extrrniely   nsetul 
in  the  business  of  lile,  is  not  eijually  lavourbblc  to  the 


H^ 


,  jt 


%t 


*  I  «i|)(>ak  nationally:    tlierr  are,  ol  l•^lll^^e.  ir<lividiial<i   t»li« 
fono  eice|iliunii  to  botii  brandies  of  ttie  curullarv. 


» ' 


ire 


PHILAUELPHIA. 


arts  i  the  exrellence  of  which,  to  be  rightly  judged, 
miiiit  he  powerfully  fell ;  whereas,  to  think  correctly 
on  all  siihJeclR,  it*  to  feel  gtrontsly  on  none.  In  fine, 
Americii  may  jiHtly  expect  a  brillant  succeHii  in  what- 
ever relates  to  the  useful  Hciences,  in  mechanical  in- 
ventions, and  all  the  arts  by  which  htr  immense  terri- 
tory, and  active  population  may  be  nioAt  abvanta- 
geously  employed  ;  but  the  ideal  world  is  not  included 
In  ij..r  doirinin ;  it  has,  perhaps  in  mercy,  been  assign- 
ed to  \\\o*e  nations  which  have  learned  to  feel,  by 
being  compelled  to  suflTer. 


'W 


§    3. — 80CIETT. 

"  When  niusick  and  the  fine  arts,"  (says  the  Mar- 
quis de  Chastelliix,  and  a  Frenchman  must  be  allowed 
a  voice  on  such  subjects,)  "  come  to  prosper  in  Phila- 
delphia: when  society  once  becomes  eany  ^nd  gay, 
and  they  le.irn  to  accept  of  pleasure  when  it  presents 
itself,  without  a  formal  invitation  ;  then  may  foreigner* 
enjoy  nil  the  advantai;es  peculiar  to  their  manneri 
and  governineiit,  without  envying  any  thing  in  Eu- 
rope.** I'o  which  his  translator  subjoins,  by  way 
of  commentary  ;'*  It  is  very  certain,  that  any  person 
educated  in  Europe,  and  accustomed  to  the  luxury 
of  muHicIc  and  the  fine  arts,  and  to  their  enjoyment 
in  the  two  capitals  of  France  and  Enti(land,  must  find 
a  great  void  in  these  particulars  in  America.** — A 
lapse  of  thirty  five  years  has  not  diuiinishod  the  truth 
of  these  (diservations.  Society  in  Philadelphia,  (and 
what  may  be  said  on  this  point,  with  regard  to  Pl^ila- 
del|iliia,  a[»plies  with  double  force  to  all  ofher  parts 
of  Amerii;a,)  is  yet  in  its  infancy.  By  so«  iely,  I 
mean  the  .irt  of  combiiiiiit!  sorial  (|ualilies,  so  as  to 
produce  the  highest  degree  of  riWional  enjouneni  ; 
this  huppoMCs  a  common  stock  of  ideas,  on  subjecti 
generally  iiiteresliuK,  and  a  manner  of  givins  then 
f' i*tiou,  by  which  the  lelf-love  of  each  uiay  be  at 


PHILADELPHIA. 


Uf 


once  roused,  anil  satiafieii.  Piibliok  amunementis  the 
ar«8,  such  literary  and  philoBopliiral  to|iicH  ax  require 
tasite  and  Hensibiliiy,  wiihuut  suppos^ing  a  fatiguing 
depth  of  erudition,  a  morality  rather  ^^racelul  than 
ausiere,  and  a  total  absence  of  do}!inaliHin  on  all  sub- 
jertH,  consititnie  nvAuy  of  the  inateiiids  for  Hurh  an 
interrourae.  In  Philadelphia,  publirk  aniUHeinenIs 
are  nothing;  the  (ine  arts  little  ronxiilcrcd,  betuuHe 
every  man  is  suflii  ienlly  ociMipied  with  hix  own  busi- 
ne!<s  ;  for  the  Maine  reanon,  que  .lionn  of  mere  specula- 
tion in  literature  or  philosophy  would  be  looked  upon 
as  a  wattte  of  lime  ;  in  morality,  every  thing  is  pre- 
cise ;  in  religion,  all  is  dogma.  It  uiity  seem  sti.inge, 
that  a  people  so  generally  uell  infornu-d  as  the  Ame- 
ricans, tihould  be  so  little  sensible  to  lilerary  ciijoy- 
meuls  :  not  less  curious  is  it,  that  the  fircst  p«ople 
upon  earth  should  be  straigh(-la«  t;d  in  iiioiidii\,  and 
dogmatical  in  religion  :  a  nuMiient's  consideritiion  will 
8nl\e  this  seeming  inconsisteiu  y.  The  Americuni 
read  for  improvement,  and  to  msike  a  Diaclical 


li- 


cation  of  their  knowledge  :  they  collcii  luuie>  for  the 
hive,  not  to  lavish  its  sweetness  in  social  iuteiroutse  ; 
hence  the  form  is  less  considered  than  the  mutier ; 
but  it  is  \\u'  form  which  is  principully  the  subject  of 
taste.  There  is  besiiles,  a  principle  of  economy 
running  through  every  department  of  sorit*ly  in  the 
Slitlt's  :  it  is  a  sa\ing  of  lime,  rather  to  import  Itooks 
than  to  write  them  ;  hence,  there  is  no  cl;iss  of  authors, 
no  literary  emulation  :  criticism  loses  its  iiit«'iesi  when 
confined  to  the  pro<tut  lions  of  foreigiieis  ;  th>  y  inaj 
be  read  for  proiil  or  amusement,  but  they  cinuiot  be 
discussed,  either  in  their  f.uilts  or  beauliew.  with  the 
feeling  inspirrd  by  the  wriiiu2»  of  coinp.iti  iois,  whose 
reputation  every  mnnbtT  ofsttrieiy  feels  iis  ronneet- 
ed  with  his  own,  siid  their  glorv  as  part  of  his  pslri- 
monv.  Aiain,  piquancy  in  conversation  supposes  a 
certain  persiflage,  a  ialitudr  in  opinion,  which  ;dlows 
every  thmg  to  be  said  on  <  vri  v  sultprt,  pio\ided  it 
be  latd  well :  Ibis  kind  of  freedom,  wiiich  up|tertuini 


II 


'I  J 


.r 


ira 


rtllLADELPHIA. 


I)      . 

*/  liu 


.4 


perhaps,  (o  a  corruption  of  existing  institutions,  ii 
singularly  inapplicaiile  to  a  country,  in  which  all 
moral  iluties  are  poitiiive  ;  aiul  whatever  is  poiiilive 
adtnits  neither  of  speculation  nor  discussion. 

Reiigiouii  toleration  has  produced  in   America    an 
eflfect,   which  though  natural,  is  curiously  the  reverse 
of  what    the   advocates   for   a  church,    "  by   law   es* 
tablished,"  cotuiuonly  predict.      A  monopoly,  either 
in  trade  or  religion,    goes  far  to  produce  stagnation 
and    d«;crement  ;    tihi  una,    ibi   tnilla. —  Zeal   cools, 
and  faith  decays,  under  the  indolent  governance  of 
chartered  pistors,  with   who!U  such  extrriNtl  coinpli« 
ance,  as  will  assure  them  on   tlie  score  of  temporals, 
may  be  expected  to  form  the  chief  pari  of  their  anxie- 
ty.       When    tlie    mo.'iopoiy     is  entirely     close,    the 
few  in  whose  minds   r^ii-iiin   continues   to   assert    her 
rights,  have  no  resource,  but  in  suoh  positive  iiifidell- 
ty  as  will  permit  those  outward  compliances,  which  an 
heretical  belief  woidd  re^iurd  as  criminal.     A  free  com- 
petition,   on    the   contrary,   not   only    stimulateH   the 
zeal  of  all,  because  oU'i  sect    has  no  advantage   over 
another,  except  what  it  ar<pdres  by  its  own  exertioni, 
but  in  the  many  shades  of  t«elief  it  otfers  to  the   pub- 
lie  choice,  there  are  few  so  fastidious  as  non   to  find 
some  colour  suitable  to  their   own   complexion  ;    and 
as  every   proselyte   is  a   genuine   \ictory,   the   stray 
iheep  from  one  told  ait>  very  ipiickly  caught   u|)  and 
penned  in  tuiolher.      Thrre  are  forty-two  rhurchcs  in 
Philadelphia  :    Kornati  (Jaiholirk,  ^episcopalian,  Pres- 
byterian, tinaker,  Kici;  (r^uakcr,  Swedish   Lutheran, 
German    liutheran,    (}ern:an     Kdormeii,    Associate, 
Associate  litiormed,  Covenanters,  Methoih'^tH,  (/hris- 
tiaii  cliiirch,    iMoi avian,    I  niverM.ilit«t,    Indepeiulenti 
Unitarian,  .It'wish.     To  fall  in  with  none  of  these, 
wouUi  indicate  a  surprising  eccentricity  of  character, 
not  likely  to  meet   with   much    indulgence  ;  and   hav- 
ing choi«n  one,  the    American   would  coi;-ider,   that, 
like  a  tiaili ,  it  wan  seriously  to  be   followed,  and   no 
longer  ipeculaled  upuu. 


mi 


*  1  ; 


e' 


W 


» 
•    t 


PHILADELPHIA. 


I?5» 


Politicks  are,  indeed,  a  RiiUjcct  of  high  interest, 
whether  in  action  or  Mp'iciilation,  but  for  this  very 
reason  they  are  scarcely  a  fit  t«>{)ick  for  social  relaxa- 
tion :  they  are  a  ptirl  of  every  injn'ii  ttiHiiiess,  and 
are  discussed  as  «ncli :  a  pleaiire  to<i,  which  eKcludes 
the  fe'nale  half  of  society,  scarcely  beionj^a  to  the 
clas!*  of  social  enjoyiiients,  yet  the  inlerest  it  excites, 
will  prob.ibly  lon^  render  the  Ainericans  careless  of 
the  li«;liler  beanlies  of  conversational  pleasure. 

I  proceed  to  consider  the  manner  necessary  to 
give  >»ociety  its  perfect  j^race.  "  All  the  politeness 
of  the  Americans,"  observes  the  Marquis  de  Chas- 
tellux,  *'  is  mere  lorm,  such  as  drinking  health  to  the 
company,  observin<:  ranks,  giving  up  the  ri^ht  hand, 


&c.  but  til 


ey  (Jo  no 


iliiui:;  of  this,   but   what    has   beei 


taught  them;  not  a  particle  of  it  is  ttie  result  of  sen- 


titnenl  :    in  a  word,  itoliteness  here,   is  like  reli 


gion 


in 


Italy,  every  thing  in  practice,  but  without  any 
principle."  I  have  myself  seen  a  lad  haniling  two 
young  women  out  of  a  pol-houne  into  (he  stage  wag- 
gon, with  all  the  gravity  of  a  Master  of  the  Ceremo- 
nies at  Uath  :  in  fact,  this  varnish  is  used  to  cover 
manners  very  frequently  vul'i,ar,  and  very  rarely 
elegant.  IManners  to  be  viilg.ir  must  be  affected; 
the  meanest  Indian  is  a  genllernHn,  because  he  is 
composed  and  natural ;  add  a  desire  to  please,  and 
you  have  all  that  society  reipiires.  A  Frenchman  is 
as  anxious  to.  please  as  he  appears,  because  hia 
vanity  is  gratified  by  success;  his  politeness  ii 
the    natural    expre'jsior    of    this    anxiety,  and   plea- 


ses,   as    something    natural. 


Tl 


le     Ameru'an, 


on 
rn- 


the  contrary,  nilent  and  rcfKciing,  occupies  hi 
leir  very  little  with  the  cliVi  I  of  what  he  says; 
*'  liriller  iliins  In  Soriili^^^  is  to  him  an  unmean- 
ing   phrase ;    his    po 


iilenesis     is,     therefore, 


no    re- 


flexion  of  his   feelings,  but  an  arlifii  iai   form    Im;  has 
borrowed,  to  hide  a  vacuum  :  — and  what  should  haxc 


liKtuceii  a  sensihie  people  l.)  Iiorrow  a  trap|)uig  ho 
unsiiiled  (o  thtir  chara.ler  .'  The  vanity  probably, 
to  rival  Uie  nations  of   Europe,  in  manners,  as   well 


180 


PHILAUELPHIA. 


I 

V 

I 

11^ 


as  in  arts  and  power :  (he  French  led  (he  ton  in 
fashions  ;  and  accident  gave  French  fashionn  a  dou- 
ble advantage  in  America:  but  they  made  ihe  mis- 
take of  the  nobleman,  who  purchased  Fiuu  h,  and 
then  wondered  he  exhibileii  none  of  the  feats  which 
had  delii^hted  him,  while  in  possession  of  the  show- 
man: — but  I  mistake;  they  have  no  such  astonish- 
ment ;  they  believe,  he  actually  does  exhibit  (hem 
all. 

I  have  proceeded  too  far  in  the  discussion  of  man- 
ners  without   introducing   the  ladies,   who    have    so 
great  a  sh»rc  in  forming   them.     Their  cheeks   may 
redden,  perhaps,  at  my  hard  sayings,  but   I  offer  to 
replace  their  wreaths  of  tinsel,  with  rhaplets  of  pearls. 
Women  bear  a   high  rate   in  the   American   market^ 
because  they  are  scarce  in  proportion  to  the  demand, 
in  a  country,  w!iere  all  men  marry,  and  marry  young ; 
consequently  they  are  not  called  upon,  to  make  great 
exertions  to  captivate  ;  they  can  do  without  striking 
ar.compliithmenis,  and,  to  recur  to   a  trading   maxim, 
wiiich  (hey  will  very  well  understand,  there   will  sel- 
dom be  more  of  a  commodity  raised  for  market,   (ban 
the  conHiimpliou  calls  for.     Female  accomplishments 
are  consequently  in  (he  same  predicament   with  male 
politeness  ;   they  are  cultivated   upon  a  principle  of 
vanity,   to   imitate   (he  ladies  of  Europe;    but  they 
feldom  enrich    the   understanding,   or  give   eleicance 
to  the  manners :  — like  the  men,  the  ladies  fall  into 
the  mistake   of  confounding  fashions    with    manners, 
and  think  they  import  Parisian  graces  with  Parisian 
bonnet;* :   nay,  this  is  little,  they  have  improved  the 
commodity  :  "  The  American  ladies,"  as  1  nave  heard 
an  American  lady  modestly  observe,  *' unite    French 
grice  with  English  modesty."      Happy  combination, 
did  it  not  neutralize   Ihe  whole  compound  '    Let   ua 
view  (hem  in  (heir  perihelion,  at  a  ball  or  assembly. 
Chairs  are  arranged  in  a  close  semi-circle  ;   the  !;\dlet 
file  into  the  room,  and  silently  take  their  seats  bortide 
etch  other,  the  men  occupy  ing  (he  chord  of  (he  segment, 


i,\ 


PIIII.AUr.I.PHIA. 


%'i8-a-vis  to  their  fair  foes,  (for  sufili  their  cautious 
distance  and  rare  coiiimnniculion  would  indicate  Ihem 
to  be :)  the  men  in  this  situation  dittCUSH  trade  and 
politick-^  ;  the  ladies,  fashions  and  doini'slick  incidents, 
with  all  I  lie  quiet  and  gravity  becoming  the  solemni- 
ty of  the  meeting; :  tea  and  cufft^e  are  handed  about, 
and  in  due  process  of  time,  cakeit  and  lemonade, 
&c.  :  rIiouUI  there  be  no  dancing,  the  forces  draw 
otr,  afier  having  for  several  hours  thus  reconnoiiied 
each  other.  When  they  dance,  the  n»en  slep  for- 
ward, and,  more  by  gp>(lure  lliiin  word,  indicate  their 
wishes  to  their  fair  partners:  Cotillions  then  com- 
mence,  with  a  gravity  and  perseverance  almost  pitia- 
ble, "Dancing,**  nays  the  MiU(|uis  de  Chastellux, 
is  said  to  be  at  once  the  etnbicin  of  gayety  and  of 
love  :  here  it  seems  to  be  the  "emblem  of  legislation 
and  marriage.'*  The  animation  displayed  by  the 
feet  never  finds  its  way  into  the  countenance,  to  light 
up  the  eye,  or  deepen  the  rose  on  the  cheek, 

Wlijrh  liang^  in  c->iill  and  lirrli><<«  lustre  tlicre. 
Like  a  P'd  nak-li-af  in  tin  winiry  air; 
While  llie  hhierye  altovi.'  it  rnUlly  lH<am4, 
Liko  moonliglit  radiance  upon  frozen  streams. 

One  conceives,  on  these  occasions,  how  dancing 
may  become,  as  it  is  among  the  Shakers,  a  relicious 
ceremony.  IM.  Volney  is  inclined  to  deduce  from 
the  sour  Prrsbyterianism  of  the  first  settlers  in  New 
l*^Mgland,  "  //f  Inv  rfiiiiionirn.r,  /'«»>  irrave  et  silen- 
cieuTy  el  toiife  rHitjitctle  iriiimhe  qui  rrtine  enrare 
dnns  la  socitii  dfs  fenintfs  ties  Ktals  I'liis/*  Not- 
withstanding the  niulli|ili(;ily  of  seels  in  America, 
they  all  take  theii-  lone  rnun  llu;  auslercHt,  that  they 
may  lose  none  of  I  he  a«l\;inl.ir*'«  rcNidling  from  the 
appearance  of  superiour  sanctity  :  in  this  way«  peo- 
ple of  all  creeds  are  screwed  up  lo  the  [lilcli  of  ('al- 
vinistirk  slilfness:  gallantry  itself  asHiimes  a  solemn 
and  serious  air :  the  God  of  Love  has  laid  aside  his 


M 


]ft2 


PHILADELPHIA. 


J(      {>t 


torch  and  purple  wlnc;s,  and  sfeps  a  merchant's  clerk, 
well  versed  in  the  (nvHieries  holh  of  gruce  and  uun. 
Society,  under  these  circiimsfances,  heconien  in>iead 
of  theF.Mst,  the  Fast   of  Self-love.      With  scarcely 


any 


cotiiinnnK 


ation  of  Hen>iiiient   betwixt   the   sexes, 


there  is  no  collision  to  strikeout  the  sparkle!*  of  v. it, 
nor  any  sympathy  of  tastes  to  kindle  feelin'i,  or  ^ive 
the  expression  of  it   anim:ilion.      Parties  Heparaie  as 
if  they  had  p«>rforn)t'(l  a  duty,  and   meet   to  perfotm 
one  a^ain. — i  have  thus  far  touched   on   the  (leficien* 
cies  of  A  nerican  females,  let  me  speak   their  praise. 
Their  good   «pi;dities   are    of  a   sterlinj;    kind  :    jiood 
wives,    j^ood    mothers,   prudent    housekee[iers,    they 
may  hid  defiance  to   the  satirist,   until   Ihev   tpiit    the 
hallowed  cir«;le  of  domestick  virtues,  to  (loller  heavi- 
ly on  the  li;;ht  airs  of  vanity  :    throuji;h   their  aflVrta- 
tion  only  are  they  vulnerable.      Should  it  he  objected 
that   domestick  virtues  alone    are   insufficient  to  j^ive 
the    human    mind    its    fullest    expansion,    to    produce 
a  He  Slael   or   an    10. Ii^e worth,    we    may    reply,    that 
the    cneriretick    feelings    which  nourish    the    soul  of 
genius,    thouu;h    to   their  im-uediate   posseHsor    they 
may,    acitordint;    to    circumstances,    be     productive 
cither  of  puin  or  pleasure,  yet  in  their  ;;eneral  growth, 
are  iti variably  attached  to  a  slate  of  social   hutioring  : 
there  must   be   a   war  of  elements    to  engender   the 
Ihuntlerbolt.      In    America   life    moves    evenly,     for 
every  one  is  thriving  in  his  proper  pla<  e.      IMisfor- 
tiine,  when  it   occurs,   as    where   iloes   it   not  ?  flows 
from    individual    miscalculation,   an«i    has,    therefore, 
none  of  the   solemn   character  of  Natality,   whicli    it 
bears  in  asocial  svslein,  miire   defectively   ort{.inized. 
Whatever  has  been  observed  with  rej^ard  to  socie- 
ty    ill    Philadelphia,    and    in    the    Stales    ^renerally, 
must  be   taken    with   such   exceptions  as  all   (General 
observations  are  liable  to.      In  all  the  principal  towns 
small  circles  are  to  be   met   with,   in    which  animated 
converiiation,  i^olished  and  easy  manners,  leave  no- 


PniLAPrLPHIA. 


183 


thin:;  (o  be  <1e<<ire(],  but  that  tliej  should  be  more 
coriiiiioii.  The  Atiierir.iuis  have,  in  general,  a  frienil* 
liness  of  iiiaiuier  which  iuuUI  not  fuil  to  please,  would 
they  1^1  >lie  sti-earii  lake  iia  ititiirat  courne,  without 
torluriii^;  if  into  arlifirial  />rs-  </'  f(in.  With  this  feel- 
irii;  I  have  been  ol'ten  lc>ii|)t(Ml  t«)  consider  th*;  farmers 
of  the  back-wooth  the  polilest  class  of  people  in  the 
Stiites,  bt!cuiH*>  their  mani.ers  spring  from  the  true 
souK-.e,  their  feejni^g. 

To  a  siraii<r,«r,  Philadelphia  is  a  less  agreeable  resi- 
dence th:tri  i:i*)s|  other  citicH  of  Ihtf  I'nion,  for  (he 
same  reasons  which  I'lnicr  it  more  agreeable  In  the 
inhabitant!!!,  its  social  circle  is  larger,  and  conse* 
quently  less  iiKeds  the  aid  of  Atrnngers:  it  is  besides 
less  exclusively  coiinnercial,  and  therefore  leas  in  the 
habit  of  bhewinj;  them  hospitality. 


§    4. —  GAOL    AND    PENAL    CODE. 

The  Philadelphia  prison  is  a  more  infereslinjr  ob- 
ject to  humanity  than  the  most  j;roru;eons  pidat  es  :  it 
presents  the  practical  application  of  princi|.|eK  which 
worldly  men  have  derided,  and  pliilot-opliy  ha»  up- 
held, w  iihoiit  darinu;  (o  liope  for  their  iultiption.  'IMie 
exieriour  of  the  bnildii  \r  \h  himple,  v  iih  rather  the  air 
of  an  hospital  than  a  vjaol :  a  siniile  grated  door  sepa- 
rates the  interiour  from  the  street.  On  enterinu;  the 
court-yard  I  found  it  full  of  stone-ciiiteis,  '■mploved 
in  Hawint:  and  preparini;  large  blocks  of  stone  and 
marble;  Hinillis'  forg<>s  were  at  uork  on  one  ^ide  of 
it,  and  the  whole  court  is  surionnded  by  a  uallery 
and  double  tier  of  work  shops,  in  which  were  brush- 
makers,  tailors,  shoemakers,  weavers,  all  at  their 
several  occupations,  hdioiiiini;,  not  only  to  defray  to 
the  pnblick  the  expences  of  their  coidinement,  but  to 
provide  the  means  of  their  own  honest  sidi^islenve  lor 
the  future.  I  passed  Ihroiifrh  the  shops,  and  paused 
a  inomeiit  in  the  gallery  to  look  down  on  (he  Hcene 


^ 


» 


184 


PHILADELPHIA. 


below  :  it  had  none  of  the  usual  features  of  a  prinon 
bouse,  neither  the   hardened  proflii^iicy   which  scoffs 
down  its  own  sense  of  guilt,  not  ihe  hollow-eyed  sor- 
>ow  which  wastes  in  a  living  death  of  unavailing  expia- 
tion :   there  was  neither  the  clank  of  chains,  nor   yell 
of  execration,  but  a  hard-working  body  of  men,   who 
though  seperated   by  justice  from  society,  were   not 
supposed  to  have  lost  the  distinctive  attribute  of  hu- 
man   nat'ire:    they    were   treated    as  rational  beings, 
operated     upon   by    rational    motives,   and    repa}  ing 
this  treatiii'iil   by   improved  habits,  by   industry  and 
8ub  nissior)  :  ihey  had  been  profligate,  they  were  sober 
and  decent   in  behaviour  ;  thev  had  been  idle,  they 
were  actively  and  usefully  employed  ;  they  had  diso- 
beyed  the  laws,  they    submitted  (armed  as  they  were 
with  all  kind  of  utensils)  to  the  government  of  a  single 
turnkey,  and   the  barrier  of  a  single  grating.     The 
miracle  which  worked  all  this   was  humanity,  addres- 
sing their  self-love  thtough    their    reason.      I   envied 
Atnerica   this  system      1   felt  a   pang   that    ray    own 
country  had  neither  the  glory  to  have  invented,  nor 
the  emulation  to  have  adopted  it. — I  borrow  the   de- 
tail of  its  history  and  regulations  from  "  the  Pirture  of 
Philadelphia,"  publishedby  Dr.  James  IMease,  liill. 
History. — By  the  code  of  laws,  framed  by   Wil- 
liam Penn,  the  punishment  of  death  was  abrogated  in 
all    cases,  except  "  wilful  and  premeditated   dturder 
where  it    was   admitted   in  obedience  to   tht    will   of 
Ood."     These    humane   and    Christian    laws,    when 
transmitted   to    England,   were   all    repealed  by    the 
Queen  in  council,  but  were  immediately  re-enacted, 
and  continued  till  the  year  17IU,  the  epoch  of  Penn's 
death:  the  penal  code  of  England  was  then  revived. 
The  constitution  of  Pennsylvania,  formed  upon  the 
declaration  of  independence,  directed,   in  one  of  its 
first  provisions,  *'  the  Legislature  to  proceed   to  the 
reformation  of  the  penal  laws,  and  to  invent  punisli- 
ntents  less  sanguinary,  and  better  proportioned  to  the 
various  degrees  of  crimioality."     In  1786,  when  the 


••♦»^** 


PHILADELPHIA.  jg, 

close   of  the  war  Uft  i  • 

"»  some  cases  whic  h  Ld  he  «":  /'"''  "'^  ''^'^  '«»'0«r, 
bour,  however,  whs  pZ  k  I  l'"'"  ''^P''«'  •  >^i«  '«- 
*J'o  aMain  none  0^^!  .i^  .  .^'^  «««"  ^''^^over- 
»em  ;  hardening,  rJi^^.i^^'  .•^"^«  of  punl.h- 
and  creafing,  i„  ,/,«  nnbh'<^  ..??""'"«  '*'^  *^'''"""a' ; 
'  i';!.r?r'"*"'''-'''''errCahW^  ^«'"n>i«erafion  fo.' 
;?«?'.  l>r.  Uu«h,  whHad  7      "^-^  "'^^e  crime,     i" 

read  a  p«pe,  3,  ^  socieh    br  nniK      "^  Pnnishmen.s. 
at    hehouseofihevenera^ffr'    '"^"''•'^«'  ''^'^ 
l^nqu.r^  ,nfo  ihe  Influence  of  „n'",' T'^'*^^' "  ^ 
on  tnm,nals  and  Socle/ v''     u'ii"''  Puni^hmenf8 
Pubhshed.     In  Jhu   1.1   "^  '   "~"^'<^'i   was  afferward. 

chief  of  ,he  penlfL'r.aX'"  "™""  """'■■"- 
and  proposed  (haf  »li    '".'/"•"  "een  recenflv  nasspd 

and  Iha.^he;  IhoJd  ZZ^f"''  '«'"""  ^'^  ™ 
k.nds  of  lahiur,  low  d.er  c  ,.?' 7"^?«'"^"^  ^'fl-eren 
bj  religious  ins^rucrion  T^.  "^^  accompanied 
'n  Hs  pamphlet  were"«td  IT'*^'^^.  ^*^"'«'"«'» 
'"'•cule,,n,henewspape?r  T,''''^'  ''""'^^y  and 
«?  /he  schemes  of  ^  humanp  .^^  ^^•"^  considered 

v.s.onar^  imagination.  J  "nrirr^''  *^'"  "''^  «"^' 
the  nature  of  man,  and  hi  T  .^"''  ""P«8««ble,  from 
«ver  to  realize.  ZtJh  'T'"""""  "''  '"«  n.ind^ 
powerful  opposioC'tr,t">  ''"'^^-^'  «  "-« 
*'ad.byacontinuanJeofthr?.  '  "-^Pcaled,  af.er  if 
'e*^  nesH  of  Ihe  argumen f/*^  f-T'  P^"^^^'  '^^  'o  - 
?««'"«'  if.     In  place  of  n.K,?"''   *""*'  b««"   '"^led 

Jour  in  private,^;:.  tf,t';tr'"'^''"'^"''  *>«""" 
diet,  were  suh«t|rufe  ,  •  IndT  ""P'^'«""^«*nf,  and  low 

entitled"  An  E„^,,ir,7„^7^^        f''°"'^  ^""'Pl'lef, 
punishing  Murde/  b/ Del,/  ^*     1"'"'/  ""*'  ^"'^0  o 
fo-d,  the  Attorney-Genera  '„fP  '"  '?^'  ^'•-  «-d. 

"'i  "An  Bnquir/how7a;  he   pT-''^'^ ""'■"'  ''"''''«''- 

24       '^•""^^n'cnt  of  Death 


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186 


PHILADELPHIA. 


is  necessary  in  Pennsylvania,"  with  documents  from 
the  criminal  conrls  of  the  state,  calculated  to  enforce 
the  principles  laid  down  by  Dr.  Rush.  An  account 
of  the  gaol  was  added,  by  Caleb  Lowndes,  one  of 
the  inspectors  of  the  prison.  At  the  following  ses- 
lion  of  the  Legislature,  the  punishment  of  death  was 
abolished  for  ail  crimes  except  murder  of  the  fir&t  de> 
gree ;  and  a  motion  was  made,  during  the  session  of 
1809,  to  abolish  it  altogether. 

Reffulaiions  and  Government. — The  gentlemen 
who  tirst  undertook  the  task  of  inspectors,  encoun- 
tered conrtiderable  opposition  from  those  who  had,  or 
imagined  they  had,  an  interest  in  the  abuses  of  the 
old  system.  The  gaoler  had  grown  rith  by  gaol 
f(^es,  the  sale  of  liquors,  and  similar  perquisites,  and 
was  naturally  a  decided  enemy  to  innovation.  The 
prisoners  on  being  informed  that  their  former  habits 
of  indolence  and  drunkenness  were  to  be  replaced 
by  labour  and  sobriety,  took  alarm,  and  on  the  eve- 
ning of  the  first  day  on  which  the  experiment  wai 
tried,  made  a  desperate  effort  to  escape ;  but  upon 
the  restoration  of  order,  the  adoption  of  mild  but 
decided  conduct,  ultimately  secured  the  most  per- 
feet  obedience.  The  prisoners  were  informed, "  that 
their  treatment  would  depend  upon  their  conduct, 
and  that  those  who  evinced  a  disposition  that  would 
afford  encouragement  to  believe  they  might  be  re- 
stored  to  liberty,  should  be  recommended  for  a  par- 
don, but  if  convicted  again,  the  law  in  its  fullest  rigour 
would  be  carried  into  effect  against  them."  A 
change  was  early  visible ;  they  were  encouraged  to 
labour ;  their  good  conduct  was  remarked ;  many 
were  pardoned  ;  and  before  one  year  was  expired, 
their  behaviour  was  almost  without  exception,  de- 
cent, orderly,  and  respectful.  The  principal  regula- 
tions of  the  present  system,  may  be  reduced  to  the 
following  heads : 

I.  Cleanliness.— Th"  criminal  on  coming  into  the 
gaol  is  bathed,  and  cloathed  in  the  prison  dreii,  bis 


^. 


FHILADBLPBIA. 


187 


face  and  hands  are  washed  daily,  his  linen  is  changed 
weekly,  and  he  bathes  during  the  sutnmer.  The 
apartments  are  swept  and  washed  once  or  twice  a 
Week. 

2.  Lodging. — The  prisoners  lie  on  the  floor  in  a 
blanket,  about  thirty  in  one  room.  The  hours  for 
rising  and  retiring,  are  announced  by  a  bell.  A  lamp 
is  kept  burning,  so  that  the  keeper  has  constantly  a 
view  of  the  apartment. 

3.  Diet. — They  take  their  meals  with  the  greatest 
regularity,  by  Nound  of  a  bell :  silence  is  enjoined 
while  eating.  Fur  breakfast  they  have  about  three- 
fourths  of  a  pound  of  good  bread,  with  molasses  and 
water ;  at  dinner,  half  a  pound  of  bread  and  beef, 
a  bowl  of  soup  and  potatoes,  sometimes  heninj^s  in 
the  spring ;  at  supper,  corn  meal,  mu!«h,  and  niolas- 
■es,  and  sometimes  boiled  rice.  Slight  otfences  iu 
prison  are  punished  by  a  curtailment  of  diet.  Spi- 
rituous  liquor  or  beer  never  enters  the  walls,  nor 
are  provisions  permitted  to  be  sent  to  the  convicts. 

4.  Sickness. — A  room  is  appropriated  to  the  sick, 
with  a  physician  and  nurses  to  attend  them  ;  hut  the 
regularity  of  their  lives  almost  secures  them  from 
disease* 

5.  Religious  Instruction. — Divine  service  is  per- 
formed on  Sundays,  and  good  books  are  distributed. 

6.  Labour. — Work  suitable  to  the  age  and  capa- 
city of  the  convicts  is  assigned,  and  an  account  open- 
ed with  them.  They  are  charged  with  their  board, 
clothes,  the  fine  imposed  by  the  state,  and  expense 
of  prosecution,  and  are  credited  for  their  work  ;  at 
the  expiration  of  their  time  of  servitude,  half  the 
amount  of  the  sum,  if  any  left,  after  deducting  the 
charges,  is  paid  to  them.  As  the  board  is  low,  the 
labour  constant,  and  the  working  hours  greater  than 
among  mechanicks,  they  easily  earn  more  than  their 
expenses.  On  several  occasions,  the  balance  paid 
to  a  convict  has  amounted  to  more  than  100  dollars ; 
in  one  initaoce,  it  was  160  dollars,  and  from  10  to 


•.  i 


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V 

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r' 


188 


PHILADELPHIA. 


40  dollars  are  commonly  paid.  When,  from  the 
nature  of  the  work  at  which  the  convict  has  been 
employed,  o^  from  his  weakness,  his  labour  does  not 
amount  to  more  than  the  charges  against  him,  and 
his  place  of  residence  is  a  distance  from  Philadel- 
phia, he  is  furnished  with  money  sufficient  to  bear 
his  expenses  home.  The  price  of  boarding  is 
16  cents  (about  9d.)  a-day,  and  the  general  cost 
of  cloaths  for  a  year,  is  about  19  dollars  33  cents. 

7.  Corporal  pwiishment  is  prohibited  on  all  occa- 
sions. The  keepers  carry  no  weapons,  not  even  a 
stick. 

8.  Solitary  confinement. — The   solitary  cells  are 
16   in  number :  their  dimensions  six  feet  by  eight, 
and  nine  feet  high  ;  light  is  admiltfd  by  a  window  at 
the  end  of  the  passages,  and  by  a  small  window  plac- 
ed above  the  reach  of  the  person  confined,  and    so 
contrived    as   to  admit    the  light    only  from   above. 
Stoves  in  winter  are   placed  in  the  passages  out  of 
reach   of  the   convicts.     No   conversation  can  take 
place  betwixt  the  several  cells,  but  by  vociferation, 
and  as  this  would  be  heard,  the  time  of  punishment 
would  thereby  be  increased.     The  prisoner  is  there- 
fore abandoned  to  the  gloomy  society  of  his  own  re- 
flections.    His  food  consists  of  only  half  a  pound  of 
bread  per  day.     No  nature  has  been  found  so  stub- 
born as  to  hold  out  against   this   punishment,  or  to 
incur  it  a  second  time.     Some  veterans  in  vice,  have 
declared  their  preference  of  death   by  the  gallows, 
to  a  further  continuance   in  that   place  of  torment. 
A  convict,  by  name  Jackson,  who  acknowleged  him- 
self  to  be  an  acconipiished  villain,  and  to  have  been 
in  most  of  the  gaols  of  the  United   States,   was  sen- 
tenced to  hard  labour  for  several   years  in   Philadel- 
phia ;  he  gave   much  trouble,  and  at  length  escaped 
over   the  walls ;  he  was  pursued  to   IVlarylund,  and, 
on    his    way    back,    escaped   again  ;    he  was  fiitallj 
taken,  and  lodged  in  the  cells,  where,  full  of  health, 
and  with  a  mind  high-toned,  he  boasted  of  Lis  reio- 


^  .  w 


»« 


PHILADELPHIA. 


189 


lution,  and  of  the  iropossibilily  of  subduing  his  spirit 
or  of  efTecling  any  change  in  him  ;  but  after  having 
been  confined  for  some  time,  an  alteration  in  his  de- 
portment became  evident,  and  he  took  occasion,  when 
the  inspecl^ors  were  going  through  the  prison,  to  en- 
ter into  conversation  with  them,  and  inquired  how  an 
old  comrade^  in  iniquity  who  had  been  long  ron6ned, 
had  obtained  his  release  froiy  the  cells.  The  reply 
was,  that  he  promised  to  behave  well,  and  had  been 
put  upon  his  honour  ;  "  Would  you  trust  mine  ?"  he 
rejoined;  "Yes,"  was  the  answer,  "if  you  will 
pledge  it  :"  he  did  so,  was  released,  went  cheerfully 
to  work,  and  behaved  with  propriety  during  the  re- 
mainder of  his  time. 

9.  Inspection. — Visiting  inspectors  attend  the 
prison  at  least  twice  a  week,  to  examine  inio  the 
whole  of  its  economy,  hear  the  grievances,  and  re- 
ceive the  petitions  of  the  prisoners,  lay  reports 
monthly  before  the  Board  of  Control,  and  in  e^ery 
point  insure  the  regulaiity  of  the  system;  particular- 
ly by  watching  the  conduct  of  its  subordinate  agents, 
as  the  keepers,  turnkey,  &c.  They  are  fourteen  in 
number. 

Such  is  the  outline  of  the  system  on  which  Penn- 
sylvania, and  the  Slates  whi».h  liiive  folloved  her 
example,  w  ay  secuiely  pillow  their  fame.  Objec- 
tions, however,  ha\e  been  rtiised  to  it  :  its  mildness 
has  been  represented  as  a  temptation  to  crin  e  ;  yet 
crimes  ha\t  «!)ii.inii>hed,  siiit  e  its  ad<»pti(in.  "More 
persons,"  sn^s  Mr.  Brntlfvrd,  "were  trifd  for  larce- 
nies and  buiglaries,  while  thrse  rfiCMei'  wtie  cupital, 
than  since  the  pnnishnient  has  been  let<»ienrd.  I 
hdd  heard  it  said  that  thefts  weie  c(  nmiitttd  for  the 


41 


*  This  man  hsA  licrn  ronflned  Tor  8ix  nirktliw  in  tlie  rrljo,  at 
the  (ud  ol  whicli  t  nir,  le.ng  ron  (tidf  ly  Mildiifd.  le  waF  let 
out  npnu  a  rnlen  n  |i!«d^r  tiT  ^niid  Itl  o\l(^iii'.  nrd  diirirg  the 
rert  of  hin  \  itif,  ^b\v  tut  Iroiililr  b)  tl'l^  (I'm.  Mi  niUiton- 
TerRationN  and  seriou»  advice  of  one  of  the  inii|iet>tors  powerful. 
Ij  asaisted. 


■■ '-    ^  *■ 


I 


190 


PHILADELPHIA. 


sake  of  returning  to  prison ;  and  this  is  so  far  trut^ 
that  negroes,  who  have  neither  friends,  nor  means  of 
getting  their  bread,  have  in  some  instances  procured 
their  own  return  to  an  abode  in  which  their  few  wants 
are  provided  for;  a  provision  comprising^all  the  en- 
joyments of  which  their  lives  are  susceptible.  This 
objection  is  in  fact  of  a  nature  so  rare  and  unique, 
that  I  doubt  whether  Ihe  friends  of  the  institution 
should  feel  very  anxious  for  its  removal.  It  would, 
however,  be  hazardous  to  assert  that  this  system  is 
suited  to  the  meridian  of  all  nations,  or  rather  that  all 
nations  are  capable  of  receiving  it :  transplanted  into 
many  European  States,  it  would  altogether  change  its 
character,  as  the  torch,  which  is  a  dim  speck  in  sun- 
shine, becomes  a  shining  light  in  darkness.  The  pri- 
son would  be  without  the  walls,  and  innocence  would 
take  refuge  within.  In  truth,  liberal  and  humane  in- 
stitutions cannot  co-exist  with  tyranny  and  moral  de- 
basement :  they  who  rule  by  the  lash,  and  the  bayo- 
net, have  incapacitated  themselves  from  employing 
the  golden  weapons  of  humanity. 


T.;    ,- 


#> 


t 


rf 


[   19»    1 


■#. 


^ 


CHAPTER  XXVI. 


PHILADELPHIA  TO  WASHINGTON. 


Darhy 

71-4 

Chester 

7  12 

Nov.  26,  Naaman's  Creek 

5 

Wilmington 

7  12 

Newport 

4 

Cfirisliaoa 

5  12 

27,  Elkton 

10 

Havrenle  Grace 

161-2 

28,  Harford  Biiih 

1114 

Joppa 

614 

29,  Baltimore 

18  12 

Dec.  8,  Vani>ville 

25  1-4 

Bladeniburg 

8  12 

9,  Waibingtoo 

6 

Milet. 


*f^       ■•* 


139 


# 


Off  the  banks  of  the  Schuylkill,  about  two  milet 
from  Philadelphia,  there  is  a  wild  scene  of  rocki 
breaking  the  river  into  several  rushes  and  fails  :  the 
metallick  brilliancy  of  these  rocks,  whenever  their 
strata  are  broken  up,  indicates  (he  ridge  of  talkous 
granite,  which  Volney  has  traced  for  nearly  500 
miles,  from  Long  Island  to  the  Roanoke,  and  which 
probably  extends  as  far  as  the  Savannah.*'  It  is  ob- 
served to  limit  the  tide  waters  by  the  cascades  it  forms 
CD  crossing  the  rivers,  and  to  separate  the  barren 
sand-coast  from  the  fertile  alluvion  districts  above 


*  I  found  it  about  Raleigh  in  Nortli  Cnrolina,  and  it  seems  by 
the  falls  to  cross  the  Fear  hivrr  near  Kayettville,  and  the 
Great  Pedee  near  the  Ferry  ol'  dliieenljorougb.  It  is  in  some 
places  composed  of  micaoeous  schistus. 


|i 


.#^ 


192 


PHILADELPHIA    TO    WABHINGJON. 


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it,  striking  the  Delaware  at  Trenton,  the  Schuylkill 
at  Philadelphia,  the  Sutiqiiehanna  near  Octarora 
Creek,  the  Gunpowder  Creek  near  Joppit,  the  Pa- 
tapsco  at  Elkridge,  the  Potomac  at  Geor^^etown, 
the  Rappabanock  near  Fredericksbur^i  the  James  at 
Richmond,  the  Appainatox  above  Peter«bur(^,  and 
the  Roanoke  near  Halifax.  The  road  to  Washing- 
ton follows  the  line  of  this  ridge,  which  naturally  mo- 
difies the  features  of  the  country.  Its  apparent  eleva- 
tion is  inconsiderable,  just  sufficient  to  undulate  the 
face  of  the  landscape,  and  occasionally  pp'esenting, 
especially  round  streams,  bolder  prominebces,  called 
bluffs  in  South  Carolina.  The  creeks  ami  rivers, 
wearing  through  a  yielding  soil,  have  frequently 
their  banks  steep,  and  let  the  eye  into  deep  woody 
glens ;  the  soil  in  such  situations  is  rendered  fertile 
by  a  mixture  of  clay  with  the  sand  which  consfitutei 
its  basis."^  As  far  as  Wilmington,  the  stately  Dela- 
ware enriches  the  prospect :  from  thence  the  scenery 
is  uniform,  consisting  of  plantations,  interspersed  with 
oak  and  pine  barrens. 

Tiie  houses  universally  shaded#ith  large  verandas, 
seem  to  give  notice  of  a  southern  climate  ;  the  hats 
round  them,  open  to  the  elements,  and  void  of  every 
intention  of  comfort,  tell  a  less  pleasing  tale  :  I  hey  in- 
form the  traveller  he  has  entered  upon  a  land  of  mas- 
ters and  slaves,  and  he  beholds  the  scene  marred 
with  wretched  dwellings,  and  wretched  faces.  The 
eye,  which  for  the  first  time  looks  on  a  slave,  feels  a 

Eainful  impression :  he  is  one  for  whom  the  laws  of 
umanity  are  reversed,  who  has  known  nothing  of 
society  but  its  injustice,  nothing  of  his  fellow  man  but 
his  hardened,  undisguised,  atrocious  selfishness.  The 
cowering  humility,  the  expressions  of  servile  respect, 
with  which  the  negro  approaches  the  white  man, 
strike  on  the  senses,  not  like  the  courtesy  of  the 

*  I  foiiii'l  abundance  of  iron-stone  on  this  line,  in  blocks  and 
detached  masses. 


*    *     .*  w 


»-       / 


PHiLAUELPHIA    TO    WASHINGTON. 


193 


huyium 

)cldrora 
J  he  Pa- 
rjretown, 
fames  at 
Lirj^,  and 
Vri^hing- 
raily  rno- 
int  eleva- 
iilafe  the 
esentint;, 
•s,  called 
J  rivers, 
cqiieiitly 
;p  woody 
•ed  lerlile 
onstitutes 
ely  Dela- 
e  scenery 
srsed  with 

verandas, 
the  hats 
of  every 
they  in- 
of  mas- 
marred 
les.     The 
e,  feeU  a 
e  laws  of 
othing  of 
man  but 
88.    The 
respect, 
ite  man, 
of  the 


French  and  Kalian  [»casant,  civing  a  i;race  fo  pover- 
ty, but  with  iltf  (.liillini;  indicalion  of  a  crushed  spi- 
rit :  the  .sound  of  th«i  lash  is  in  his  accents  of  submis- 
sion, and  llic  eye  which  shrinks  frotn  mine,  caught  its 
fear  from  that  of  the  task-master.  Habit  steels  us  to 
all  thini;s,  and  it  is  not  to  be  expected,  that  objects, 
con.»(finlly  presf-Mit,  sho'ild  continue  to  excite  the 
same  scr)satiou3  wliich  (licy  cause,  when  looked  upon 
foi-  the  first  time  ;  (and  this,  perhaps,  is  one  reason, 
why  so  much  cruelty  has  been  tolerated  in  the 
world  ;)  but  whoever  should  look  on  a  slave  for  the 
first  time  in  his  life,  witli  the  same  indiHerent  2;aze  he 
would  bestow  on  any  casual  object,  may  triumph  in 
the  <;oo<l  foitune  throuj;h  which  he  was  bom  free  ;  but 
in  his  heart,  he  is  a  slave,  anil  as  a  moral  being,  de- 
graded infinitely  below  the  u'^i^ro,  in  wiiose  sotil  the 
light  of  freedom  has  been  cxlinguislied,  not  by  his 
own  insensibility,  but  by  the  tyranny  ot  others.  Did 
the  miserable  condition  of  the  n'-gro  leave  him  mind 
for  reflection,  he  mia^ht  Inuiih  in  his  chains  to  see  bow 
slavery  has  stricken  the  lai.d  with  ugliness.  The 
smiling  villages  and  happy  popidation  of  the  Eastern 
and  Central  statcB,  give  place  to  the  splendid  eqni- 

f>ages  of  a  few  platMers,  and  a  wretched  negro  popu- 
ation,  crawling  anmn^;  fil'hy  liovels — for  villages, 
(after  crossing  (he  Susquehanna,)  there  are  scarcely 
any  ;  there  are  only  plantations — the  very  name 
speaks  volumes. 


M 


25 


Iblocks  and 


[   194  1 


CHAPTER  XXVII. 


BALTIMORE. 


W'HiLE  I  was  in  Baltimore,  I  saw  a  sketch  of  the 
citj,  taken  in  1750;  it  then  consisted  of  about  half 
a  dozen   bouses,-  built   round  the    landing   place :  it 
now    contains    50,000    inhabitants,    and    is    growing 
rapidly.      Here    are    reckoned  to    be  some    of   the 
largest  fortunes  in  the  Union,  that  is,  of  from  500,000 
to     1,000,000    dollars.      To    strangers,    the    polish- 
ed   hospitality   of  its  inhabitants    renders   it  a    plea- 
santer   residence   than  Philadelphia.     For    my  own 
part,  though    very  slightly    introduced,    I   received 
more  civilities  in  proportion,  during  the  week  I  spent 
in  this  city,  than    in  the   whole  course  of  my  tra- 
vels besides.     Perhaps  this  courteous   disposition  is 
in  a  certain  degree  an  inheritance:  during   the  colo- 
nial regime,  Annapolis   was  the  centre   of  fashion  to 
all    America :    the    Governours    of  Maryland    were 
commonly    men    of  rank    and    family,   who  brought 
with  them  a  taste  for  social  elegance,   which   seems 
to  have  become  the  appanage  of  the  old    families, 
who,  since    Annapolis  has   fallen    into    decay,  have 
become  residents  of  Baltimore.     The   city    is  built 
round  the  bead  of  a  bay,  or  inlet  of  the   Patuxent, 
about  eight  miles  above  its  junction  with  Chesapeake 
Bay.     The    entrance    of  the    harbour   at    Gossuch 
Point  is  l50  yards  across,  and  defended  by   a  fort, 
which  our  fleet   ineffectually  bombarded   during  the 
war.     A  sand  bank,  about  fifty  feet  in  height,  evi- 
dently the    ancient  boundary  of  the  bay,  forms  a 
natural  glacis  round  the  town,  and   terminates  at  its 
southern  extremity,   in  the  hill  of  the  signal  post, 


.'     .'"• 


^1lM/■^- 


BALTIMORE. 


19^ 


from  which  there  is  a  beautiful  panoramick  view  of 
the  city,  tort,  arMl  harbour.  It  was  on  this  natural 
terre-plein  the  lines  were  constructed  against  our 
threatened  attack. 

The  puhlick  buildings  of  Baltimore,  being  all  of 
brick,  have  little  aicliiteclural  beauty  ;  they  evince 
the  prosperity,  and  good  polity,  rather  that  the  taste 
of  the  city.  There  is,  however,  a  monument  erect- 
ing to  the  Mieruory  of  Washington,  in  a  kind  of  park, 
adjoining  the  town  ;  it  consists  of  a  marble  column, 
adorned  with  trophies  in  bronze:  the  design,  like 
the  man  who<>e  fame  it  records,  is  nobly  simple. 
This  is  the  first  token  of  publick  gratitude  Ameri- 
ca has  consecrated  to  her  first  citizen  ;  and,  strange 
to  tell,  the  design  was  set  on  foot,  not  by  an  Ameri- 
can citizen,  but  Uy  an  Irish  exile.* 

Annapolis  continues  to  be  the  seat  of  government 
for  Marylind.  iVIo>»t  states  choose  some  second- 
rate  town  for  this  purpose,  to  preserve  their  legis- 
lators, either  from  the  seductions  or  the  mobs  of  a 
great  city  ;  though  there  seems  to  be  little  cause  for 
alarm  on  either  head. 

*  It  is  ludicrous,  whcuever  a  city  corporation  gives  a  din- 
ner to  a  puhlick  character,  to  see  what  a  clutter  the  news- 
papers raise  about  "  liepublican  Gratitude."  Party  zeal  is 
fometimes  a  dreadful  satirist. 


•  Jl 


■0: 

■A  ■ 


[  iy(>  ] 


CHAPTER  XXV  III. 


WASrilNGTON. 


TiiK.  trnveller,  havina;  passnti  (liroiigh  Bladensburg, 
on   (ho  east  Inancli   of  llu^    Patiixenf,   where  Ihe  ac- 
tion  was  U)ii<i;ht,   wliioh    (lie    Asnericans   have   nick- 
named   the   "  Kiadensbnr,^   ra<",es,"    crosses  a  sandy 
tract,  interspersed  tvith  oak   barrens  and  pine  woods, 
until  sudiicrdy  inonnlini!;  a  httU^  rise,  cloi^e    to  a  poor 
cottage  with  Its   Indian  corn  patch,    he   Hnds   himself 
opposite    to  the    Capitol   of  the    Federal   city.       It 
stands  on    an  ancient   bank   of  the    Patomac,   about 
eighty    feet  above   the   present  level  of    the    river; 
the  course   of  which  it  conimands,  as  well  as  the   ad- 
jacent  country,   as    far  as    the    Alleghany    Ridges. 
The   edifice   consists  of  two  wings,  intended  to  be 
connected   by  a  centre,  siu'inounted   by  a  dome  or 
cupola.     The   design  is  pure  and  elegant,   but   the 
whole  building  wants  grandeur.     Each    wing  would 
not   be  a  large  private   mansion  :  the  interiour  has 
consequently    a  contracted    appearance,   a    kind    of 
economy  of  space  disagreeably   contrasting  with  the 
gigantick  scale  of  nature  without,  as  well  as  with  our 
ideas   of  the  growing   magnitude    of  Ihe    American 
nation.     Tiie  staircase,  which  is  a   kind  of  vestibule 
to   the  impression    to    be    produced  by    the    whole 
building,  is   scarcely  wide  enough  for  three  persons 
to  pass  conveniently.     The  chambers  of  the  senate 
and  representatives    are    of   very    moderate  dimen- 
sions, and  the  judgment  hall,    with   its   low-browed 
roof,  and   short  columns,  seems  modelled    after  the 
prison  of  Constance  in  Marmion.     Some  of  the  de- 
corations, too,  ai'e  of  very  dubious  taste.     Mr.  La- 


If 


WASHINGTON. 


197 


ensburg, 
I  the  ac- 
ve   nick- 
a  sandy 
e  wooils, 
to  a  poor 
;  himself 
:ity.      U 
ic,   aljoiit 
le   liver ; 
s  Ihe  ad- 
Ridges, 
d  to  be 
dome  or 
but  the 
g  wouUl 
iour  has 
kind   of 
kvilh  the 
with  our 
merican 
estibule 
whole 
persons 
senate 
dimen- 
-biowed 
liter  the 
It  he  de- 
klr.  La- 


trobe  has  modelled  ,\  sk-A  of  riirures  for  the  Cliain- 
bor  ol  K»>|irc^('iil.i(ives,  to  peisonily  llie  scmmuI 
stales  oI"  IJK-  rii;i>ii;  bill  as  i|  i»  not  fiisy  fo  <tis- 
rovt-r  ii;i  aitrilMilc,  !o  say  fiolliimi  of  a  poetical  ctia- 
raclei  i«<*i<'iv,  by  wlilcb  Coiiiit'oiicut  Uiay  1-e  disiiii- 
giiislied  iVuin  '.Ma>sar!n!>fMs,  Noilii  Catohria  bom 
Suddi  C.u'oliiia,  or  Koiitiirky  lioni  ()Iii>>,  i^itouise 
must  l»e  Imd  to  (he  uiijiiacct'iil  expedieiif  oi  a  sJiijier- 
sc.rip(joi)  lo  point  out  \m  own  tii!e!.oy  haiiil  lo  « :u:li 
i'epro>*«'iitative.  iMr.  Latrob.;  has,  indeed,  hit  i;j»oii 
one  device  ("or  IMassiicliuHetts  ;  siie  is  leailiiii;,  by  (lie 
huiid  an  ii}:;ly  cub  of  a  boy,  rej-icseiiling  IViaiut.',  ^vhich 
boy  l)e(:ottit'S  a  giil  when  Maine  a^sniucs  )h  i  pro- 
per stafe  ; — a  puerile  conceit.  One  cannul  lielj;  re- 
greltinu;  the  Ainerioans  should  have  neglected  lo  ff^ 
give  their  new  Capitol  a  »;haracler  ol  grandeur  woiihy  ■ 
of  their  (cnilory  and  ambilion.  Privaje  edifices  -■ 
rise,  decay,  and  are  replaced  by  others  of  snperiour 
niagni(icence,  as  the  taste  or  growing  opulence  of 
the  nation  require  ;  but  publicU  buildings  should 
have  a  character  answerable  to  their  purpose  ;  they 
bear  upon  ihem  the  seal  of  the  genius  of  the  age, 
and  souietinies  prophetically  reveal  the  political  des- 
tinies of  the  nations  by  which  ihey  are  raised. 
The  Romans  communicated  to  their  erections  the 
durability  of  their  empire.  The  Americans,  in 
"their  aspirations  to  be  great,"  seem  sometimes  lo 
look  towards  Roman  models,  but  Ihe  imitation  u^ust 
be  of  things,  not  names  ;  or  instead  of  a  noble  pa- 
rallel, Ihey  are  in  danger  of  producing  a  hidinoiis 
contrast. 

From  the  foot  of  the  Capilol  hill  there  runs  ii 
straight  road,  (intended  to  be  a  sirt  el.)  jtlanled  with 
poplars,  for  about  (wo,miles,  to  the  President's  hoi;se, 
a  handsome  stone  mansion,  forming  a  conspicuous  ob- 
ject from  Ihe  Capilol  Hill :  near  it  are  ihe  publick 
offices,  and  some  streets  nearly  filled  up  :  about  half 
a  mile  further  is  a  pleasant  row  of  houses,  in  one  of 
which  the  President  at  present  resides :  there  are  a 


.1  . 


»• 


'SI'! 


4. 


198 


WASHINGTON. 


few  tolerable  houses  still  fiirlher  on  the  road  to  George- 
town, and  this  is  nearly  the  sum  total  of  the  City 
for  1816.  It  used  fo  be  a  joke  against  Washington, 
that  next  door  neighbours  must  go  through  a  wood  (o 
make  their  visits  ;  t>ut  the  jesi  and  forest  tiave  vanish- 
ed together:  there  is  now  scarcely  a  tree  betwixt 
Gc  >rgetowu  and  the  Navy  Yar*!,  two  miles  beyond 
the  Capitol,  except  the  poplars  I  have  tnentioned, 
which  may  be  considereil  as  the  loctim  leuentes  of  fu- 
ture houses.  I  doubt  the  policy  of  such  thorough 
clearing  ;  clumps  of  trees  are  preferable  objects  to 
vacant  spaces,  and  the  city  in  its  present  state,  being 
commenced  froin  the  extremities  instead  of  the  cen- 
tre, has  a  disjointed  and  naked  appearance.  The 
fiery  ordeal  has,  however,  fixt  its  destiny.*  Land 
and  houses  are  rising  in  value,  new  buildings  are 
erecting,  and  with  the  aid  of  the  intended  university, 
there  is  little  doubt  that  Washington  will  attain  as 
great  an  extent  as  can  be  expected  for  a  city  possest 
of  no  commercial  advantages,  and  created,  not  by  the 
natural  course  of  events,  but  by  a  political  specula- 
tion. The  plan,  indeed,  supposes  an  immense  growth, 
but  even  if  this  were  attainable,  it  seems  doubtful 
how  far  an  overgrown  luxurious  capital  would  be  the 
fittest  seat  for  learning,  or  even  legislation.  Perhaps 
the  true  interest  of  the  union  would  rather  hold 
Washington  sacred  to  science,  philosophy,  and  the 
arts  :  a  spot  in  some  degree  kept  holy  from  commer- 
cial avarice,  to  which  the  members  of  different  stales 
may  repair  to  breathe  an  atmosphere  untainted  by  lo- 
cal prejudices,  and  find  golden  leisure  for  pursuits  aqd 
speculations  of  publick  utility.  Such  fancies  would 
be  day  dreams  elsewhere,  and  are  so  perhaps  here  ; 
but  America  is  young  in  the  career  of  political  life  ; 

*  Our  rxpodition  ag;ain*it  Wninliini^ton  had  a  NJngular  fate  :  it 
pleased  ()otl)  Rides,  ft  pioaHed  us,  tor  it  Riicceeded.  or  Reemod 
to  succeed.  It  pleased  the  American  government,  tor  ii  pro- 
Vokcd  the  spirit,  by  wounding  the  honour  of  the  people.  From 
that  raonient  the  war  became  uatioual. 


i  H'Y 


MTASIIINOTON. 


199 


she  has  the  light  of  former  ages,  and  the  BiiflTerinjiis  of 
the  present  to  guide  her  ;  she  has  not  cru!«hed  the 
spirits  of  the  many,  to  build  up  the  tyranny  olihe  lew, 
and,  therefore,  the  prophelick  eye  of  iinao;ination 
may  dwell  upon  her  smilingly. 

I  fell  info  very  pleasant  society  at  Washington. 
Strangers  who  intend  staying  some  days  in  a  town, 
usually  take  lodgings  at  a  boar<ling  house,  in  prefe- 
rence to  a  tavern  :  in  this  way,  they  obtain  the  best 
society  the  place  aflfords  ;  for  there  are  always  gentle- 
men, and  frequently  ladies,  either  visitors  or  tempo- 
rary residents,  who  live  in  this  manner  to  avoid  the 
trouble  of  housekeeping.  At  Washington,  during  the 
sittings  of  Congress,  tlic  boarding  houses  are  <livided 
into  messes,  according  to  the  political  principles  of 
the  inmates,  nor  is  a  ctranger  admitted  without  some 
introduction,  and  the  consent  of  the  whole  company. 
I  chanced  to  join  a  democraticU  mess,  and  name  n 
few  of  its  members  with  gratitude,  for  the  pleasure 
their  society  gave  me  : — Commodore  Decatur  and  his 
lady,  the  Ablig  Correa,  the  great  botanist  and  pleni- 
potentiary of  Portugal,  the  Secretary  of  the  Navy, 
the  Secretary  of  the  Navy  Hoard,  known  as  the  au- 
thor of  a  humorous  publication,  entitled  "John  Bull, 
and  Brother  .fonallian,"  with  eight  or  ten  members 
of  Congress,  princij»ally  from  the  Western  slates, 
which  are  generally  consiilered  as  most  decidedly 
hostile  to  England,  but  whom  I  did  not  on  this  account 
find  less  good-humoured  and  courteous.  It  is  from 
thus  living  in  daily  intercourse  with  the  leading  cha- 
racters of  the  coiinlry,  that  one  is  enabled  to  judge 
with  some  degree  of  certainty  of  the  practices  of  its 
government ;  for  to  know  the  paper  theory  is  nothing, 
unless  it  be  compared  with  the  inslrumcnts  employed 
to  carry  it  into  effect.  A  political  constitution  may 
be  nothing  but  a  cabalistick  form  to  cxtiact  money 
and  power  from  the  people;  but  then  liie  jugglers 
must  be  in  Mie  dark,  and  "  no  admittance  behind  the 
curtain.*'     This  way  of  living  afl'ords  too  the  best  in- 


'1 
1 


200 


WASHINGTON. 


i\        1 


\,K 


>i 


sight  into  the  best  part  of  society  ;  for  if  in  a  free  na- 
tion fhe  depositaries  of  the  piiblick  confidence  be  ig- 
norant, or  vulgar,  it  is  a  very  fruitless  search  to  look 
for  the  opposite  qualities  in  those  they  represent ; 
whereas,  if  these  bi^  well  infortnod  in  mind  and  man- 
ners, it  proves  at  the  least  an  inclination  towards 
kn()\vi<;d'^e  and  refiiiffni-nf,  in  the  general  mass  of 
citizens,  hy  whom  they  are  selected.  My  ouii  expe- 
rience ol>!ig;es  me  to  a  favourable  verdict  in  this  par- 
ticular. I  found  the  little  cii*:le  into  which  I  had 
happily  fallen,  full  of  good  sen''?  and  good  hnniour» 
and  never  quitted  it  without  feeling  myself  a  gainer 
on  the  hi'ore,  either  of  usehd  itilormatioii  or  of  social 
enjoy  nio:)t. 

T(ie  Pre  iident,  or  rather  his  lady,  holds  a  drawing- 
room  weekly,  during  the  sitting  of  Congress.  He 
take--,  by  Jlse  hand  ihose  who  aie  piesentcd  to  him  ; 
shakitig  Inruis  being  'liscovercd  in  America  to  be 
more  rational  and  aiaidy  than  kissing  them.  F'or  the 
rest,  it  is  much  as  such  things  are  everywhere,  chat- 
ting, and  tea,  compliments  and  ices,  a  little  musick, 
(some  scandal,  I  suppose,  among  the  ladies,)  and  to 
bed.  Nothing  in  these  assemblies  more  attracted 
my  notice,  than  the  extraordinary  stature  of  most  of 
the  wesier..  menibers  ;  the  room  seemed  filled  with 
giants,  among  whom  moderately  sized  men  crept  like 
pigmies.  I  know  not  well,  (o  what  the  difference 
may  be  attributed,  but  the  surprising  growth  of  the 
inhabitants  of  the  Western  stales  is  matter  of  asto- 
nishment to  those  of  the  Eastern,  and  of  the  coast  line 
generally.  This  phenotnenon,  which  is  certainly  a 
considerable  stumbling-block  to  the  Alib<;  Raynal's 
theory,  may  probably  be  resolved  into  the  operation 
of  three  positive  causes,  and  one  negative,  namely, 
plentiful  but  simple  food,  a  healthy  cbunite,  constant 
exercise  in  the  o|)en  air,  and  the  absence  of  mental  ir- 
ritation. In  a  more  advanced  stage  of  society,  luxu- 
rious and  sedentary  habits  prod  ice  in  the  rich  that 
enfeebieuient  of  vitality,  which  scanty  food,  and  labo- 


j- 


\ 


WABHINeTOK. 


201 


i  free  na- 
ce  be  ig- 
h  to  look 
ipresenl ; 
and  uian- 

towards 

mass  of 
»wn  expe- 
I  thin  par- 
ch I  had 
I  huiiioiir» 
f  a  gainer 

of  social 

a  (lr;nv ing- 
ress??.     Vl6 
?a\  lo  liiin  ; 
rica   to  be 
.     For  the 
liere,  chat- 
tie  miisick, 
es,)  and  to 
attracted 
of  moat  of 
lied  with 
crept  like 
ditference 
vvth  of  the 
cr  of  aato- 
ooast  line 
•crtainly  a 
Uaynal's 
operation 
i,  namely, 
L  constant 
I  mental  ir- 
^ety,  luxu- 
rich  that 
I,  and  labo- 


rious or  unwholesome  occupations  bring  upon  the 
poor.  The  only  persons  to  be  compared  with  these 
Goiiahs  of  the  West,  were  six  Indian  chiefs  from 
Georgia,  Chaetaws  or  Chickasaws,  who,  having  come 
to  Washiny^ton  on  publick  business,  were  presented 
at  Mrs.  Madison's  drawing-room.  They  had  a  still 
greater  appearance  of  muscular  power  than  the  Ame- 
ricans ;  and  while  looking  on  them,  1  comprehended 
the  prowess  of  those  ancient  knights,  whose  single 
might  held  an  army  in  check,  "  F.nd  made  all  Troy 
retire." 

The  sittings  of  Congress  are  held  in  a  temporary 
building,  during  the  repair  of  the  Capitol :  I   attend- 
ed them  frequently,  and  was  fortunate  enough  to  be 
present  at  one  interesting  debate  on  a  change  in  the 
mode  of  Presidential  elections  :  most  of  the   princi- 
pal speakers  took  a  part  in  it  :  Messrs.  Gattton,  Cal- 
houn, and  Webster  in  support  of  it ;  Randolph  and 
Grosvenor  against   it.     The   merits  of  the  question 
were   not   immediately    to   be    comprehended   by   a 
stranger,  but  their  style  of  speaking  was,  in  the  high- 
est degree,  correct   and   logical,  particularly    that  of 
Mr.  Webster  of  New  Hampshire,  whose  argumenta- 
tive acuteness  extorted  a  compliment  from  Mr.  Ran- 
dolph himself,  "  all)eit  unused  to  the  complimenting 
mood."     Mr.    Grosvenor,    both    in  action   and  lan- 
guage, might  he  considered  a   tinished   orator,   as  far 
as  our  present    notions   of  [iractical  oratory   extend. 
Mr.  Randolph,  wIkhc  political  talents,  or   rather  po- 
litical fluccesH,  is  said  to  he  marred  by  an  eccentrick 
turn  of  thouirht,  which  chimes  in  with  no  party,  seems 
rather  a  brilliant  than  a  convincing  speaker  ;  his  elo- 
cution is  distinct  and  clear  to  shrillness,  his  command 
of  language  and  illustration  seems  unlimited  ;  but  he 
gave  me  the  idea  of  a  nuui  dealing  huge  blows  against 
a    shadow,    and    wasting    his    dexterity    in   splitting 
hairs:  his  political  sentiments  are  singular  :  he   con- 
siders the  government   of  the   United  States  as  an 
elective  monarchy  ;    "  Torture   the   constitution  ns 

20 


'•  T.V»»"V'"».     ' 


202 


WASHINGTON. 


ilKf  I    '  ' 


i 


'■r 


r: 


yoii  will,'*  said  be,  in  the  course  of  the  debate,  "the 
President  will  elect  his  successor,  and  that  will  be 
bis  son  whenever  he  has  one  old  enough  to  succeed 
him."  No  expressions  are  used,  either  of  approba- 
tion or  the  contrary';  whatever  may  be  the  opinion' 
of  the  House,  the  most  perfect  attention  is  given  to 
each  member ;  nor,  however  long  he  may  speak,  is 
he  ever  interrupted  by  those  indications  of  impa- 
tience so  common  in  our  House  of  Commons.  This 
may  resHonably  be  accounted  for  by  supposing, 
that  their  average  speeches  are,  in  themselves  better; 
or  more  agreeably,  by  conjecturing,  that  the  Ameri- 
can idea  of  excellence  is  put  at  a  lower  standard 
than  our  own.  Both  the  talents,  however,  and  beha- 
viour of  the  members,  seem  worthy  of  the  govern- 
ment, and  of  what  America  is,  and  may  be.  Their 
formH  of  business  and  deltate  nearly  resemble  those 
of  our  parliament  ;  always  excepting  wigs  and  gowns, 
a  piece  of  grave  ab^turdity  well  omitted  :  for  it  is 
surely  an  odd  conceit,  to  fancy  the  dignity  of  the 
first  officers  of  Slates  aliarluii  to,  or  supported  by, 
large  conglouteralious  of  arliticial  hair. 


'  i.ii  I 


^  ^)^ 


^'l 


ft      *. 


t  •  - 


>       . « 


[  203  ] 


^  < 


CHAPTER  XXIX. 


MOUNT  VERNON. 


L/R08SING  the  Patomac  by  a.wnoden  bridge,  a  mile 
and  a  quarter  in  letiglh,  the  toll  of  whicli  id  a  dollar, 
I  proceeded  through  Alexandria,  lo  Mount  Vernon. 
Whatever  is  worth  describing  in  the  house  or  situa- 
tion, has  been  many  times  described :  having  walked 
through  the  gardens,  I  requested  the  old  German 
gardener,  who  acted  as  Cicerone,  lo  contiuci  me  to 
the  tomb  of  Washington:  "  Dere,  go  by  dat  path, 
and  you  will  come  lo  it,"  said  he  :  I  followed  the 
path  across  the  lawn,  to  the  brow  that  overlooks  the 
Patomac,  and  passing  a  kind  of  cellar  in  the  bank, 
which  seemed  to  be  an  ice-house,  continued  my 
search,  but  to  no  effect: — I  had  already  found  it: 
this  cellar-like  hole  in  the  bank,  cloned  by  an  old 
wooden  door,  which  had  never  been  even  painted, 
was  the  tomb  of  Washington,  with  not  a  rail,  a  stone, 
or  even  a  laurel  "  to  flouiisli  o'er  his  grave." 

I  stood  for  a  moment  overpowered  uitli  astoriish- 
ment  and  indignation  : — behold,  says  Prejudice,  the 
gratitude  of  republicks !  behold,  says  Reuson,  the 
gratitude  of  mankind !  Had  W  tsliingtou  served  a 
Czar  of  Russia,  he  might  have  shared  with  Suwa- 
roff  a  Siberian  exile  ;  he  lived  and  died,  honoured 
by  the  country  he  bad  saved  ;  he  is  forgotten  in  the 
grave,  because  man  is  feebly  excited  by  any  but 
selfish  motives:  the  enlightened  selfishness  of  repub* 
licanism  honoured  its  defender,  but  what  form  of 
polity  has  been  discovered,  in  which  gratitude  sur- 
vives the  hope  of  future  benefiU  ?     Parly  zeal  raises 


if' 

I 


204 


MOUNT   VBRKON. 


monuments  over  its  victims,  to  stimulate  the  sur- 
vivors :  vanity  has  not  unfrequently  urged  the  living 
to  unite  by  such  means,  their  perishable  names  with 
those  of  the  immortal  dead,  but  the  mausoleum  rises 
slowly  to  which  neither  interest  nor  vanity  contri- 
butes. It  is  said  the  Federal  city  will  finally  receive 
the  remains  of  its  designer ;  but  the  Dead  can  wait ; 
and  in  the  interim  the  matter  was  nearly  cut  short, 
by  an  attempt  to  steal  the  bones  from  their  present 
receptacle,  to  carry  them  about  for  a  show.  The 
old  door  has  since  been  kept  padlocked. 


K ''■'"!     i  ' 


si.ir 


)  _ 


m 


v 


''T 


i 


c 

tl 


[  205  ] 


tie  sur- 
e  living 
ea  with 
m  rises 
r  contri- 

receive 
an  wait; 
it  short, 

present 
vl    The 


CHAPTER   XXS. 


0                                                                                                       *                  , 

WASHINGTON    TO    RICHMOND, 

BT   T^E  SHEN; 

VALLEY. 

.  \              Georgetown 

1  Miles 

Lower  Falls  of  Patomac 

2 

l.pper  Palls 

11       ' 

Dec.  22,  Lansville 

10 

Lpcpbiirg 

i        13 

23,  Wafprford     . 

i          6 

Hilnbornueh 

8 

24,  Harper's  Ferry' 

8 

25,  Cliarlestown 

8 

20,  Winchester 

22 

New  Town,  or  Stevensburg 

8 

Strasburg       .            .            , 

10 

27,  Woodstock 

12 

Mount  Pleasant 

12 

28,  Nfw  market 

8 

Big  Spring     . 

10 

29,  Hirrisonhurg 

10 

Port  Rfpublick 

15 

30,  Cave  Inn 

2 

31,  iSlaunton 

17 

Middlebiook 

12 

Jan.  1,  Brownshurg 

11 

liPxiiigtou 

13 

2,  Natural  Bridge 

14 

Lexington  to  Fairfield 

10  1-2 

4,  Greenville     . 

13 

WayenPHboroiigh 

17 

5,  Rock  Fish  Gap 

4    * 

6,  (  harlottesville 

24 

7,  Monticeilo 

1  12 

8,  Bovd's  Tavern 

9 

9,  Mrs.  Tisley's  Tavern 

27 

Goochland  Court  house 

15 

10,  Powell's  Tavern 

18 

11,  Kiclimond     . 

14 

394 


THE  MATILDA  F.\LLS. 


Close    to    Georgetown   the    granite   ridge    strikes 
the  Patomac :  the  road  winds  agreeably  under  its 


s      li 


1 


I 

1 3 


206 


THE    MATILDA    FALLS. 


*  :  V 


I 


cliff,   till  it  crosses    an  old   bed   of   the  river,  left 
dry  in  consequence  of  a  canal  which  has  been  cut  to 
turn  (he   rapids:  there  is^  a   chain  bridge  here,  from 
which  the  broken  bed  of  the  river,  (he  falls,  sca((er> 
ed  masses  of  rock,  and   lofty  banks,   present   a  wild 
and  pleasing  picture.     Having  pursued  my  way  for 
about  nine  miles,  I  quitted  (he  main  road  to  visit  the 
upper,  or  Matilda   Falls.     A  field   track  brough(  me 
into  a  scatlered  village,  built  along  a   canal,  cut,  like 
the  one  above-mentioned,   to  avoid  (he  falls:  having 
crossed  it,  I  walked  along  its  edge  for  about  a  quar- 
ter of  a  mile,  on  a  broad  green-sward  path,  as  sinoo(h 
and  regular  as  a  garden  terrace  :  a  little  wood  was  on 
my   right,    the    trees    of   which    were    fantastically 
grouped  together  by    abundance   of  wild   vine,   and 
other  parasitical  plants,  (railing  and   (wining  (hrough 
them;  (he  whole  conveying  no  inadequate   idea  of  a 
stately  and  fair  pleasure-ground  of  Queen  Elizabeth's 
time.    Turning  short  from  the  canal,  and  stepping  a 
few  paces  (hrough   (he   wood,   I   found    uiyself  on  a 
bold  precipice  of  rocks  fron(ing  (he  fulls. — I   s(arted 
at  a  sight  so  much  grander  than  any  thing  I   had  ex- 
pected :  as  far  as  my  eye  could  reach,  (he  Patomac 
came    down    from    among    its    woods,    dashing,    and 
whitening  over  numberless  ridges  of  rock,  and  break- 
ing in  a  wild  succession  of  cascades,  till,  as  if  weari- 
ed by  its  own  efforts,  i(  swep(,    wi(h  silent   impetuo- 
sity (hrough  a  contracted  channel   betwixt   perpendi- 
cular cliffs,  whose  dark,  bare  masses  of  granite  were 
scantily   crested  by  a   few  pines   and   cedars.     The 
perpendicular    descent   of    (he    falls  is  reckoned   by 
Volney  at  seven(y-two  feet,*  but  the  rapids  extend 


III*' 


c  i 


*  *'  Elle  a  environ  72  pirds  tic  hauteur,  sttr  800  a  900 
Je  larffc :  le  fievvc,  qui  ju.squ''  aiors  avail  cotilk  dans  une 
valltc  bofflk  dc  colraux  sauvages  comme  ceux  du  Rhone 
en  Vivarais,  tomhc  tout  acoup,  comme  Ic  Saint  Laurent^ 
dans  un  profond  ravin  dc  pur  roc  granit  talLk  a  pic  sur 
les  deux  rives. 

Volney,  Climat  W Amcrique,  t.  i.p.  125. 

I  fouutl  mica-slate,  aud  porphyry  about  the  Falls. 


i-       j: 


THE    MATILDA    FALLS. 


207 


sr,  left 
cut  to 
;,  from 
acalter- 
a  wild 
way  for 
Uit  the 
ight  me 
Mit,  like 
having 
a  quar- 
1  smooth 
1  was  on 
astically 
ine,  and 
through 
idea  of  a 
izabeth*8 
epping  a 
self  on  a 
I   started 
had  ex- 
Patomac 
ling,   and 
[id  break- 
if  weari- 
impetuo- 
lerpendi- 
[nite  were 
8.     The 
;oned  by 
8  extend 


for  several  miles  up  the  river,  and  (he  whole  scene 
has  a  magnificent  wildness,  which  may  be  gazed 
upon  with  delight  and  wonder,  even  after  Niagara; 
so  inexhaustibly  can  nature  vary  her  features,  and 
be  alike  gracefully  sublime  in  all."^ 

*  It  is  remarkable,  that   Mr.  Jefferson,  so  accurate  in  bit 
■otices  of  Virgiaia,  makes  do  mentiou  of  these  falls. 


t;/: 


■,v 


'■  ■  */ 


i' 


/•  r. 


-':^. 


loo  o  900 
dam  une 

\du  Rhone 
Lavrcntt 
a  pic  sur 


*t* 


It.  p.  125. 


'      [   208   ] 


CHAPTER  XXXI. 


,;,    HARPER'S  FERRY.    -    *■    / 


U     '   f 


J.  HE  road  which  ascends  the  right  bank  of  the  Pa- 
tomac,  through  Lansville  and  Leesburg,  has  the 
credit,  and  I  think  justly,  of  being  about  the  worst  in 
the  Union.  It  is  a  common  saying  of  roads  in  Vir- 
ginia, that  they  are  "  not  made,  but  created."  The 
soil  towards  the  mountains  is  generally  a  stiff  clay, 
and  as  each  waggoner  works  his  own  way  through 
the  woods,  the  traveller  is  continually  puzzled  betwixt 
the  equal  probabilities  of  a  variety  of  tracts,  most  of 
whi^h,  indeed,  lead  to  the  same  point,  but  as  this  is 
not  invariably  the  case,  he  must  often  journey  on  in 
doubt,  or  halt  in  muddy  perplexity  until  he  can  pro- 
cure information.  The  villages  are  thinly  scattered, 
but  well.buill  of  brick,  an  advantage  derived  from 
the  soil.  Leesburg  contains  about  1200  inhabitants. 
The  inn  at  which  t  stopped,  had  stabling  for  above 
an  hundred  horses,  for  the  accommodation  of  faraiers 
who  come  together  on  Court  days.  These  court 
days  are  almost  county  meeJings ;  those  who  have 
business  attend  for  business  sake,  (hose  who  have 
none  attend  to  meet  their  neighbours,  who  may  have 
business  with  them,  and  because  it  is  discreditable 
to  be  often  absent. 

At  Hilsborough,  the  road  passes  through  a  moun- 
tain gap,  resembling  the  Wind  Gap,  on  a  small  scale : 
this  ridge  is  called  the  Short  Mountain,  and  runs 
parallel  to  the  Blue  Elid>>;e,  at  the  distance  of  about 
five  miles ;   it  crosses  the  Patomac   below  Harper's 


■  f  ■ 


I'i 


harper's  ferry. 


209 


r--'V<  li 


the  Pa- 
has   the 
;  worst  in 
I  in  Vir- 
."     The 
itiflf  clay, 
through 
id  betwixt 
3,  most  of 
as  this  is 
ley  on  in 
f  can  pi'o- 
scattered, 
ed  from 
abitants. 
or  above 
of  farmers 
Bse   court 
ho   have 
nho  have 
may  have 
creditable 


Ferry,  and  I  am  inchncd  to  consider  it  as  the  same, 
which  M.  Volney  observed  near  Cohimbi»  Ferry, 
betwixt  York  and  L-tncaster,  and  which  he  is  dispos- 
ed to  regard  as  the  Blue  Mountain  itself.  I  should 
rather  leave  the  Blue  Mountain  where  it  stands  in 
the  maps  at  present,  and  conjecture  this  collateral 
ridge  to  be  a  prolongation  of  the  Lehigh  Mountain, 
perhaps  communicating  with  Monticello.  Immediate- 
ly after  passing  it,  the  road  turns  to  the  right  and 
continues  betwixt  it  and  the  Blue  Mountain,  to  which 
it  seems  an  immense  out-work.  The  land  rises  gradu- 
ally, nor  is  it  until  you  have  reached  the  ridge  of 
the  descent,  and  find  yourself  looking  down  towards 
the  bed  of  the  Patomac,  and  its  opposite  shore,  that 
you  are  aware  of  the  elevation  gained. 

Here  commences  the  savage  wildness  of  the  pic- 
ture. Your  road  lies  down  the  side  of  the  mountain, 
strewed  with  splinters  and  fragments  of  rock,  which 
slide  from  beneath  your  horse's  feet :  .immense 
masses  of  rock  project  their  bold  angles,  so  as  fre- 
quently to  leave  a  cranked  and  difficult  passage  ; 
meantime  the  mountains  stretching  up  on  every 
side,  and  partially  beheld  between  the  scattered  pine 
trees,  seem  contracting  round  with  a  deepening 
breadth  of  shadow  and  gloomy' grandeur,  until  you 
find  at  their  base  the  united  Patomac  and  Shenandoah, 
boiling  over  their  incumbered  channel.  Continuing 
your  way  betwixt  these  waters,  and  the  ragged  pre- 
cipices of  the  Blue  Mountain,  through  which  they 
seem  to  have  burst,  you  reach  the  Shenandoah 
Ferry  :  but  a  sketch  will  best  illustrate  the  locaU 
of  this  extraordinary  scene. 


a  moun- 

nall  scale : 

and  runs 

of  about 

Harper's 


27 


I'l 


210 


harper's  ferrt. 


ma 


I  descended  by  the  road  A.  The  village  is  built 
round  fhc  loot  of  1  he  height  B:  if  is  chiefly  remar- 
kable for  a  maniifacfory  of  siniill  arms,  about  10,000 
stand  of  which  are  finished  yearly  :  "  They  make 
as  many  in  a  week  at  Birmingham,"  said  one  of  the 
workmen,  who  had  been  formerly  employed  there, 
lo  m?.  It  is  from  this  height,  immediately  above 
the  village,  and  from  a  broad  bare  platform  of  Rook, 
known  bv  the  name  of  Jefferson's  rock,  that  the  eye 
co:ntnands  the  magnificent  prospect  which  Mr.  Jeffer- 
son has  so  eloquently,  yet  correctly  described. 
"  Yon  stand  on  a  very  high  point  of  land.  On  your 
right  comes  up  the  Shenandoah,  having  ranged  along 
the  foot  of  the  mountain  an  hundred  miles  to  seek  a 
vent.  On  your  left  approaches  the  Patoroac,  in 
quest  of  a  pasitage  al^o.  In  the  moment  of  their 
jUQCtion,  they  rush  together  against  the  mountain, 


I     I 


harper's  ferry. 


211 


atoroac,    in 


rend  it  asunder,  and  pass  ofT  to  the  sea.  The  first 
glanre  of  this  scene  hurries  our  senses  into  the  opin- 
ion, (hat  this  earth  has  been  created  in  time,  that 
the  mountains  were  formed  tir^t,  that  the  rivers  be- 
gan to  flow  jfterwardi) ;  (hiit  in  ihis  place  particular- 
ly, they  have  oeen  daaniied  up  by  tlie  Blue  ridge  of 
mountains,  and  have  formed  an  ocean  \vhi.;h  filled 
the  whole  valley  ;  that  continuing  to  rise,  they  have 
at  length  broken  over  at  this  spot,  and  have  torn  (he 
mountain  down  from  its  s^iiminit  (o  ils  base.  The 
piles  of  rock  on  each  hand,  but  particularly  on  (he 
Shenandoah,  the  evident  marks  of  (heir  disrupture 
and  avul^iion  from  their  beds  by  the  most  powerful 
agen(s  of  na(ure,  corroborate  (he  impression.  But 
the  dis(an(  finishing  which  na(ure  has  given  to  the 
picture,  is  of  a  very  different  character.  I(  is  a  true 
contrast  to  The  foreground.  It  is  as  placid  and  de- 
lightful, as  that  is  wild  and  tremendous.  For  (he 
mountain  being  cloven  asunder,  she  presents  to  your 
eye,  through  the  cleft,  a  small  catch  of  smooth  blue 
horizon,  at  an  infinite  distance  in  (he  plain  couidry, 
inviting  you,  as  it  were,  from  the  rio(  and  (umult 
roaritig  around,  to  pass  through  the  breach  and  par- 
tit  ipaie  of  the  calm  below.  Here  the  eye  ultimately 
composes  itself;  and  (hat  way  (oo,  the  road  iiappens 
actually  to  lead.  You  cross  (he  Patomac  above  the 
juncdon,  pass  along  i(s  side  through  the  base  of  the 
mountain  for  three  miles,  its  (errible  precipices  hang- 
ing in  fragments  over  you,  and  wi(hin  about  '20  miles 
reach  Fredericktown,  and  (he  fine  coun(ry  round  it. 
This  scene  is  worth  a  voyage  across  (he  Atlanlick: 
yet  here,  as  in  the  neighbourhood  of  the  Natural 
Bridge,  are  people,  who  have  passed  their  lives  with- 
in half  a  dozen  miles,  and  have  never  been  to  survey 
these  monuments  of  a  ilrar  between  liivers  and  moim- 
tains  which  must  have  shaken  the  earth  itself  to  iti 
centre." — Notes,  p.  '27. 

Crossing  Harper's  Ferry,  I  ascended  with  some  (oil 
Ike  mountain  precipice,  C,  on  the  left  of  the  Pato- 


212 


harper's  fgrrV. 


'i 


\ 


t . 


iii 


ftiac.  The  side  it  presents  to  the  river,  broken  and 
perpendicular,  its  disjointed  and  confused  strata,  with 
enormous  musses  of  rock  jutting  out,  and  impending 
above  its  base,  seem  to  testify  the  catastrophe  by 
which  it  has  been  rent  asunder:  from  its  summit  I 
co;nmanded  a  magnificent  prospect  of  the  Shennndoah 
Valley,  bounded  on  either  side  by  the  North  and  Biu« 
Mountain  ridges,  like  gigantick  walla,  with  the  blue 
peaks  of  the  Fort  IVlounlain,  rising  at  the  distance  of 
about  fifty  mites  to  the  south-west.  M.  Volney  esti* 
myites  the  height  of  the  Biue  Ridge,  at  this  spot,  at 
1150  feet,  ll  is  chiefly  composed  of  flint,  freestone, 
and  some  granite,  but  the  point  B  is  schislus.  Canall 
hiive  been  cut  to  turn  the  rapids  of  both  rivers. 
Flour  is  the  article  chiefly  brought  down,  in  long  flat 
boats,  which  carry  about  eighty  barrels  earh.  The 
navigation,  as  may  be  supposed,  is  both  diflicult  and 
dangerous.  I  found  the  inn  here  tolerably  good,  but 
the  charges  extravagant  ;  a  circumstance  my  landlord 
indirectly  explained,  by  telling  me  of  the  many 
travellers  whom  curiosity  brou£:ht  to  the  spot,  rather, 
it  should  seem,  to  discover  if  it  possesl  any  peculiar 
virtue  to  rid  them  o.'  their  time  and  money,  than  to 
admire  its  beauties.  He  was  also  haunted  by  a  class 
of  customers  of  a  very  different  stamp,  wealthy  and 
penurious  farmers,  from  whom  he  could  extract  noth- 
ing :  he  instanced  two,  who  had  lately  slept  at  his 
house,  after  laying  out  very  large  sums  at  a  neigh- 
bouring cattle  fair  :  (hey  slept,  took  their  meals,  and 
paid  a  bill  of  two  ponce.  This  is  economy  beyond 
(he  flight  ol  an  English  miser.  They  brought  their 
baton  with  them,  requested  permission  to  spread 
thf'iv  bl:uikots  on  the  floor,  and  took  two  glasses  of 
wliishey  in  the  morning  tor  the  good  of  the  house.  I 
found  my  host  graduated  his  charges  according  (o 
wlial  one  set  of  his  cuHlomers  would,  and  what  he 
thoiitzhl  tlie  other  shovltl  spend  ;  by  which  means  I 
paid  for  the  opposite  vices  of  both. 


1 1 


[213] 


jken  and 
rala,  with 
npending 
ophe   by 
summit  I 
ennncioah 
and  Bine 
the  blue 
Htance  of 
Iney  cstU 
I  spot,  at 
Ireestone, 
Canals 
Ih    rivers, 
n  long  flat 
rh.     The 
fficult  and 
good,  but 
y  landlord 
the   many 
)ot,  rather, 
y  peculiar 
y^  than  io 
by  a  class 
allhy  and 
tract  noth- 
ept  at  his 
a  neigh- 
leals,  and 
beyond 
ght  their 
|to   spread 
jlansies   of 
Ihouse.     I 
[ording   to 
what  he 
means  I 


CHAPTER  XXXII. 


THE  SHENANDOAH  VALLEY. 


The  Bhie  Ridge,  and  North  Mountain,  having  cross- 
ed the  Patoiuac,  bound  a  valley,  about  twenty  niii^s 
wine  at  its  greatest  breadth  on  the  P.itornar,  and 
narrowing,  almost  to  a  point,  beyond  the  Natinal 
bridge,  a  length  of  ahont  IKO  oiiles.  It  is  wtiined 
by  the  many  branches  of  the  Shenandoiili,  a  few  of 
which  rise  in  the  North  Mountain,  but  the  greater 
number  among  the  spurn  of  both  ridges,  wiieie  they 
nearly  meet,  in  the  neighbourhood  of  Staunton  and 
Waynesborough.  The  two  piiiM:ipal  branches,  call- 
ed the  North  and  South  Rivers,  are  peparated  by  a 
ridge,  named,  from  the  peculiarity  of  it»  form,  the 
Fort  Mountain,  which  divides  the  valley  longitudi- 
nally for  above  iifty  miles,  and  terminates  near  the 
village  of  Port  Republick.  The  basis  of  the  noil  is 
limestone,  the  strata  of  which  are  every  whrre  visible, 
ranging,  (says  Mr.  Jefferson,)  "  as  the  mountains  and 
sea-coast  do,  from  south-west  to  north-east,  the  lami- 
na of  each  bed  declining  from  the  horizon  towards  a 
parallelism  with  (he  axis  of  (he  earth."  Notes,  p. 
42.  The  whole  valley  is  remarkably  fertile,  parti- 
cularly in  wheal,  so  that  Winchester,  as  a  corn  mar- 
ket, his  more  than  a  nominal  resend)lance  to  its 
Hampshire  namesake,  ft  has  been  built  about  sixty 
years  :  (he  houses  are,  for  (he  mos(  part,  small,  and 
either  log,  plank,  brick,  or  s(one,  according  to  their 
date,  or  (he  means  of  (heir  inhabitants  :  the  nundtei  of 
these  was  estimated  at  2,500  by  the  last  census,  btit 
there  is  a  considerable  portion  of  negroes.     1  hud  a 


■-    / 


i 


•>    I 


!.  \ 


214 


THE    SHENANDOAH    VALLEY. 


I'l 


direction  to  a  boarding-house  kept  by  a  Mrs.  Street, 
and  can  conscientiously  recommended  ber  neat  apart- 
ments and  good  table  to  the  attention  of  future  tra- 
vellers.  The  return  of  crops  through  the  valley  is 
averaged  at  about  twenty  busheh  ot  wheal  per  acre. 
Gypsum  is  generally  used  at  the  cost  of  from  thirty 
to  forty  dollars  per  ton.  The  farmeis,  (for  here  we 
get  quit  of  planters  and  plantations,)  are  reckoned 
rich  and  penurious.  It  is  probable  enough,  their 
habits  of  expense  are  upon  a  very  different  scale 
from  those  of  the  planters,  but  the  luxury  of  the  few 
is  ever  atoned  for  by  the  poverty  of  the  many. 

There  are  more  farm-houses  and  fewer  negro  huts 
in  this  valley,  than  in  the  Lowlands  :  still,  however, 
the  plague-spot  is  too  evident.  At  every  tavern 
advertisements  are  stuck  up  for  rimaway  slaves  :  the 
bai'barnus  phraseology  in  which  they  were  drawn  up, 
sometimes  amused,^  but  the  ferocious  spirit  of  le- 
venge  they  too  plainly  expressed  more  frequently 
disgusted  me. 

A  country  must  have  very  bold  features  to  be  in- 
teresting in  winter:  the  Shenandoah  Valley  should 
be  visited  when  the  harvest  is  yellow  on  iiH  ample 
fields:  the  roads  were,  however,  good,  even  at  this 
season,  except  that  when  crossed  by  limestone  strata 
they  were  rather  rough.  The  weather,  too,  was  tine, 
and  the  thermometer  frequently  up  to  TOo,  with  a 
south-west  wind. 

The  Fort  Mountain  commences  near  Stratford  : 
it  is  named  from  bf;iug  accessible  but  by  one  road, 
but  the  top  of  it  is  flat,  and  I  was  told  there  were 
many  hundred  acres  of  very  good  land  on  it.  The 
inhabitants  of  the  valley  are  remarkably  clean  in  their 
houses:  1  stopped  at  a  little  tavern  near  the  Big 
Spring,  on  the  floor  of  which  one  might  have  dined: 
to  be  sure  it  did  not  seem  a  house  of  great  resort, 
but  I  had,  subsequently,  cause  to  make  comparisons 


'*' I  roineiuiL>er  a  negro  being  described   as  "  Cliunkmade." 


THE    SHENANDOAH    VALLEY. 


21d 


^liunkmade." 


on  this  point,  rt»iicl.  to  lis  advantage,  particularly  at 
Richmond.  The  Big  Spring  gushes  from  a  knoll 
ol  limestone  behind  tht  tavern,  ai.d  almost  immeili- 
ateiy  turns  a  mill,  and  escapes  down  a  glen,  dark 
with  cedars  and  pine-trees,  Some  fine  views  of  the 
mountains  present  themselves  a  little  above  Harrison- 
burg. On  entering  the  village,  J  inquired,  of  a  res- 
pectable looking  farmei,  for  'he  best  tavern  :  be  con- 
ducletl  me  to  one  kept  by  him^^elf,  which  it  was' lucki- 
ly no  prejudice  in  him  to  cull  the  best.  Mr.  Dufi'^s 
person  and  appearance  pleased  me  :  hf  was  a  very 
personification  of  Farmer  Dimuiond  ;  tali,  u.id  of  an 
athletick  make,  with  a  gait  firm  and  erect,  and  his 
dark  hair  slightly  grizzled,  curled  above  a  counte- 
nance of  n)anly  beauty,  beaming  with  good  humour. 
He  made  n\e.  very  welcome,  and  entered  into  a  lively- 
gossip  ;  while  his  wife,  a  neat  and  somewhat  cpiaint 
picture  of  guod  huuscwiferyj  prepared  a  comtbrtable 
dinner,  after  which,  over  a  few  glasses  of  negus,  I 
soon  became  acquainted  with  whatever  was  worth 
knowing  of  the  coiujiry.  The  village,  Mr.  DiilT  in- 
formed nie,  had  formerly  been  remarkable  lor  the 
vicious  habits  of  its  iuhabilunts ;  but  a  complete 
reformation  had  lately  taken  place  through  the  agen- 
cy, not  of  preachers,  but  of  the  Giand  Jury,  who 
had  imposed  upon  themselves  the  duly  of  receiving 
informations  in  cases  of  quarrels,  swearing,  drunken- 
ness, and  other  habits  of  low  vice,  and  had  put  the 
laws  into  force  against  the  otit-nders  with  such  good 
effect,  that  scarcely  an  oath  was  to  be  heard,  or  a 
drunken  man  seen  in  the  township.  Mr.  Duff  wa« 
himself  an  excellent  specimen  of  the  best  part  of 
his  neighbours  ;  though  extremely  lively,  and  fond 
of  conversation,  he  never  uttered  an  iintiioral  expres- 
sioM,  and  declared,  that  'he  glass  ul  negus  he  look 
with  me  was  more  than  he  had  taken  of  spirits  for 
several  years.  His  difpo-^iiion  sc(  tiie«l  in  a  high  de- 
gree Irieiidly  and  lu'iirvoieiii  ;  vet,  mark  liie  wither- 
ing effect  ol  slavery  on   the    mural   feelings!    he   was 


.  /• 


^1' 


'st 


216 


THE    SHENANDOAH   VALLEf. 


r    ■  ' 


.1  '• 


talkins;  of  the  different  ways  men  had  in  that  part 
of  Mie  roiintry  of  (iiakin.£;  money.  "Some,"  said 
he,  "  piircfiase  droves  of  hogs,  oxen,  or  horses,  in 
one  p;itf  of  the  Union,  and  ^irive  them  for  sale  to 
anotliei  ;  and  some  bny  negroes  in  the  same  way, 
and  litive  ihem,  chained  together,  to  different  mar- 
ket <  :  I  expect  two  gentlemen  here  this  evening  with 
a  di'ove."  1  expressed  my  horronr  of  such  traffick  ; 
h«  oivilly  assented  to  my  observation,  but  plainly 
without  any  si/nilar  feeling,  and  spoke  of  the  genlle- 
^men  he  expected,  as  if  they  were  just  as  "  honour- 
al)!e  men,"  as  any  other  fair  dealers  in  the  communi- 
ty :  luckily  1  was  not  cursed  with  their  company. 
I  'lever  chanced  to  fail  in  with  one  of  these  human 
droves,  but  I  borrotv  from  a  pleasing  little  work, 
written  by  a  Vu'ginian,  and  entitled,  "Letters  from 
Virginia,"  the  following  description  which  he  gives 
ill  the  character  of  a  foreigner  newly  landed  at 
Norloik. 

"  {  look  the  boat  this  morning,  and  crossed  the 
ferry  over  to  Ports»noiith,  the  srnall  town  which  I 
toid  you  is  opposite  to  this  place.  It  was  court 
diy,  and  a  iiiri;a  crowd  of  people  was  gathered 
nljoul  tne  door  oi'  the  Court  House,  i  had  hardly 
got  upon  the  stejts  to  look  in,  when  my  ears  were 
arf!»i)lod  bv  the  voice  of  singing,  and  turning  round 
to  <lisi'over  fron  what  quarter  it  came,  [  saw  a  group 
of  abdut  thirty  negroes,  of  different  sizes  and  ages, 
folli»A'i!i;r  a  rough-looking  whit**  man,  who  sat  care- 
le^^U  iiliing  in  his  sukey.  They  had  just  turned 
ro;i  I  I  the  corner,  and  were  coming  up  (he  main 
Streot  to  pass  by  the  spot  where  I  stood,  on  their 
Wav  oil!  of  to  Vfi.  \<  they  cane  nearer,  I  saw  some 
of  tneiu  loultMi  wiUi  chains  to  prevent  their  es- 
cape ;  while  oHiers  had  hold  of  each  other's  hands, 
8ii>»rnly  grasji^d,  a<i  if  to  siipoorl  themselves  in  their 
atflciioii.  I  pirtlcularly  noticed  a  poor  mother, 
Willi  an  iiiraiit  ssi<*>{ii<;  at  her  breast  as  she  walked 
along,    while  two   small    children    had   nold  of  her 


li   ! 


) 


■-^i 


tiat  part 
e,"  said 
jrses,  in 

sale  to 
me  way, 
ent  mar- 
ning  with 

trafBcIc ; 
t  plainly 
e  gentle- 
"  honour- 
cominuni- 
cornpany. 
je  human 
tie  work, 
tters  from 

he  gives 
landed   at 

ossed   the 
1   which   I 
was  court 
gathered 
ad  hardly 
ears   were 
ing  round 
w  a  group 
and  ages, 
sat    care- 
ist  turned 
the    main 
on  their 
saw  some 
their  es- 
's  hands, 
s  in  their 
mother, 
walked 
d  of   her 


1*HE   SHENAITDOAH   TALLET. 


217 


apron  on  either  side,  almost  running  to  keep  up  with 
the  rest.  They  came  along  singing  a  little  wild 
hymn,  of  sweet  and  mournful  melody,  flying  by  a 
divine  instinct  of  the  heart  to  the  consolation  of 
religion,  the  last  refuge  of  the  unhappy,  to  support 
them  in  their  distress.  The  sulky  now  stopped 
before  the  tavern,  at  a  little  distance  beyond  the 
court-house,  and  the  driver  got  out.  <  My  dear  Sir,' 
(said  1,  to  a  person  who  stood  near  me,)  '  can  you 
tell  me  what  these  poor  people  have  been  doing? 
What  is  their  crime  ?  and  what  is  to  be  their  punish- 
ment V  *  O,  (said  he,)  its  nothing  at  all,  but  a 
parcel  of  negroes  sold  to  Carolina,  and  that  man  is 
their  driver,  who  has  bought  them.'  *  But  what 
have  they  done,  that  they  should  be  sold  into  ban- 
ishment V  *  Done,  (said  be,)  nothing  at  all  that  I 
know  of,  their  masters  wanted  money,  I  suppose, 
and  these  drivers  give  good  prices.'  Here  the  driv- 
er having  supplied  himself  with  brandy,  and  his  horse 
with  water  (the  poor  negroes  of  course  wanted  noth- 
ing,) stepped  into  his  chair  again,  cracked  his  whip 
and  drove  on,  while  the  miserable  eiilea  followed 
in  funeral  procession  behind  him." 


•  >. 


' .  ,   i 


!• 


■if 


4 


V,' (I 


J      I 

i 


■^, 


[218  1 


•  1     ;    - 


CHAPTER  XXXIII. 


THE  CAVES. 


;Ji 


;i(! 


r 


Aboitt  a  mile  from  Harrisonburg,  there  is  a  roaji 
wbii  h  turns  to  the  left ;  it  crooHes  the  north  and 
middle  forks  of  the  South  Shenandoah,  and  passea 
round  the  southern  extremity  of  the  Fort  Mountain, 
through  a  well  settled  country,  to  Port  Republic.k ; 
from  this  village  the  distance  is  about  a  mile  to  the 
Cave  tavern.  A  hill,  reckoned  at  200  feel  of  per- 
pendicular height,  rise»  on  the  left  bank  of  the  south 
fork,  the  ascent  of  u'hirh  is  so  steep,  that,  as  Mr. 
JettiBrson  obser\e8,  "  you  may  pitch  a  biscuit  from 
its  summit  into  the  river."  The  entrance  into  the 
Caves  \n  about  ttvo-thirds  of  the  way  up  ;  the  one 
Mr.  Jeflfer»'oii  has  described.  Notes  p.  31.  by  the 
name  of  IVI.\(li»on*8  Cave,  is  used  for  the  purpose 
of  making  ^uiNpetre,  and  seldom  visited  from  curiosi- 
ty ;  its  aitrnction  having  been  destroyed  by  the 
dlwrovery  of  armiher  cavern  of  !>nperiour  extent  and 
grundeur,  m  the  same  cliff,  a  few  yards  beyond  it. 
Being  private  property,  and  much  frequented  by 
8tranu;ers,  the  entrance  is  kepi  closed.  The  pro. 
prieior,  an  old  German,  acts  as  guide,  provides  lightSi 
&c.  and  seems  to  feel  much  interest  in  his  office, 
when  be  attends  persons  whom  he  thinks  capable  of 
appreciating  (he  scene. 

Tlie  eniranoe    afforded  mere  crawling  room,   but 

as  we  receded    from  the  light  of  day,  the  vaulting 

rose,    and    after    descending  some    rude    steps    and 

crag«,   we  began  to    perambulate   a  magnificent  sub- 

^  terranean  palace.      Its  length  if   reckoned  at  800 


v.-r 


:  <k  C 


"fo^^J 


^f.c 


18  a  road 
north  and 
ind   passes 
Mountain, 
iepublick ; 
rnile  to  the 
'eel  of  per- 
)f  (lie  south 
at,  as   Mr. 
iscuit   from 
ce  into  the 
p  ;  the  one 
31.  by  the 
le  purpose 
■om  curiosi- 
ed    by  the 
extent  and 
beyond  it* 
:]uenied  by 
The   pro. 
ides  tightfli 
his  office, 
capable  of 

room,  but 
le  \aulling 

steps  and 
iifiuent  sub- 
led  at  800 


THB    CATEB. 


219 


yards,  and  taking  the  curvatures  of  the  numerous 
apartments  it  may  be  as  much :  there  are  about 
14  of  them,  of  various  dimensions  ;  some  low-browed 
and  studded  with  pointed,  and  glittering  titalactiies, 
like  fairy  grottoes,  others  long  and  spacious,  with 
roofs  so  lofty,  that  the  summits  of  the  massive  con- 
gelations, which,  pillar-like,  descend  from  them  to 
the  ground,  are  shrouded  in  obscurity.  The.  largest 
of  these  apartments,  called  Washington's  hall,  is  93 
yards  in  length,  of  a  proportionate  ureadth,  and  pro- 
bably  50  feet  high. 

It  is  impossible  to  describe  the  solemn  grandeur  of 
this  natural  cathedral :  clusters  of  stalactitick  columns, 
many  of  them  ten  or  twelve  feet  in  circumference, 
rise  in  magnificent  order  along  the  sides  ;  their  co- 
lour is  of  a  glistening  brown,  with  frequently  a  shaft, 
a  pedestal,  or  an  intercolumniation  of  snowy  white- 
ness. On  approaching  the  upper  end,  our  lights 
gleamed  upon  a  giganiick  stalactite,  which,  in  the 
dimness,  bore  some  resemblance  to  a  throneii  statue 
of  alabaster  ;  it  is  called  Washington's  statue  ;  but 
this  appellation,  like  many  other  misnomers  and  con- 
ceits, such  as  Solomon's  throne,  David's  sceptre, 
Adam  and  Eve  in  Paradise,  which  the  guide  forces 
on  your  notice  as  you  proceed,  serves  only  to  create 
a  tiresome  distraction  of  the  attention,  by  introducing 
ideas  peculiarly  ill  suited  to  a  scene,  in  which  na- 
ture is  working  alone  in  power  and  beauty,  regard- 
less of  the  existence  of  man  and  his  passions. 
There  is  scarcely  a  turn  in  the  cavern  which  does 
not  present  some  curious  specimen  of  her  sportive 
creation,  at  one  time  imitating  the  folds  of  gorgeous 
drapery  ;  at  another,  representing  a  water-fall,  which 
leems  to  have  been  suddenly  converted  into  marble ; 
here  she  has  chiselled  out  the  model  of  a  Gothick 
oratory ;  there  adorns  a  large  sitting-room,  with 
flowers  and  rural  implements.  The  larger  columns, 
being  hollow,  give  out,  when  forcibly  struck,  a  deep 
and  melodious  sound,  which  heard  in  the  remoter 


'W'iMlP 


220 


THE  «ATES> 


I      • 


ir  1 


caverns,  bas  the  effect  of  fine  muiick.    What  a  Py- 
thian dwelling  for  old  Huperstition  I* 

I  found  verj  good  quarlers  at  Staunton,  and  spent 
the  evening  agreeably,  in  company  with  a  young 
American  sailor,  who  had  served  af  the  Battle  of 
Plattsburg.  He  related  some  anecdotes,  which  hi*(^ 
fallen  under  bis  own  observation,  of  the  behav'  *' 
of  imprest  seamen,  which  induced  me  to  wish  inis 
rotten  portion  of  our  naval  system  exterminated. 
While  coping  with  inferiour  foes,  some  errours  may 
be  afforded,  but  when  "Oieek  meets  Greek,"  the 
careless  fastening  of  a  vizor-clasp  may  decide  the 
contest. 

Betwixt  Staunton  and  Lexington,  the  villages 
have  a  mean  appearance.  At  Middlebrook,  while 
my  horse  was  feeding,  several  of  the  inhabitants 
collected  round  my  waggon,  and  finding  it  of  a 
fashion  unusual  in  their  country,  concludea  1  could 
be  no  ordinary  person,  so  they  begged  to  know  if 
I  was  not  the  showman,  who  had  been  exhibiting 
in  the  neighbourhood,  and  whose  fame  had  pre- 
ceded his  arrival  at  this  village :  upon  my  assuring 
them  I  was  no  such  distinguished  character,  (for  I 
believe  the  inquiry  rather  implied  a  compliment,) 
they  contented  themselves  with  taking  notes  and 
dimensionH  of  my  equipage,  and  we  civilly  parted. 
The  valley  narrows  towards  Lexington,  and  the  face 
of  the  country  becomes  in  consequence  more  wild 
and  uneven,  being  broken  into  paps  and  short  hills, 
shooting  out  from  the  North,  and  Blue  ridges,  and 
thus  piesenting  a  succesHion  of  deeply  wooden  glens 
and  mountain,  very  agreeable  after  the  level  uni- 
formity of  the  upper  part  of  the  valley.  Lexing- 
ton is  a  brisk-looking  little  town,  and  having  a  col- 
lege, is  the  literary  capital  of  the   upper  parts  of 

"'  I  found  the  heat  of  the  Cavern  oppressive ;  it  was  a  sharp 
frost  without,  the  thermometer  at  30°  ;  in  Washington's  Hall 
it  rose  to  64^ ;  tlie  vapour  from  within  had  completely  thaw- 
ed the  vicinity  of  the  entrance. 


THE    GATES. 


221 


iat  a  Py- 

ind  spent 
a  young 
Battle  of 
hich  bj»«* 
)ehav'  * 
wish  inis 
rminated. 
ours  may 
lek,"  the 
Bcide  the 

i  Tillages 
ok,  while 
nhabitants 
;  it    of  a 
r  1  could 
0  know  if 
exhibiting 
had    pre- 
asBuring 
er,  (for  I 
ipliment,) 
lotes  and 
parted, 
the  face 
lore  wild 
ort  hills, 
Iges,  and 
len  glens 
vel  uni- 
Lexing- 
ing  a  col- 
parts  of 

las  a  sharp 
ton's  Hall 
tely  thaw- 


Virginia.  Arriving  early  in  the  day,  I  inquired  for 
a  saddle  horse  to  ride  over  to  the  Natural  Bridge; 
the  landlord  of  the  tavern  at  which  1  stopped  im- 
mediately set  out  with  me  in  search  of  one,  and  I 
reached  the  Bridge  tavern,  as  it  is  called,  the  same 
evening.  1  found  it  a  substantial  stone  house,  and 
all  in  a  bustle,  for  a  party  of  young  men  had  met  to 
have  a  dance ;  they  were,  however,  scantily  sup- 
plied with  partners,  the  ladies  of  llie  neighbourhood 
•having,  either  from  caprice  or  devotion,  Tor  the  most 
part  (lecliiied  their  invitation ;  they,  Jiowever,  used 
mefriiy  the  means  they  had.  While  the  amuse- 
ments were  going  on  in  the  publick  room,  I  walked 
into  the  parlour,  to  be  a  little  out  of  the  noise ;  an 
ungracious  term,  but  the  mirth  in  which  we  have  no 
share,  will  sometimes  sound  harshly,  and  so  it  did 
to  other  ears  than  mine,  though  for  a  diflferent  rea- 
son. In  this  same  parlour,  I  found  a  square  erect 
figure,  in  a  brimmed  hat,  and  primitive  suit  of  dark 
snufT-colour,  pacing  up  and  down  with  a  sourness 
of  aspect,  which,  had  I  not  been  subsequently  en- 
lightened as  to  its  cause,  1  might  have  ascrdied  to  a 
fit  of  the  cholick  :  he  had  already  enunciated  the 
perturbed  condition  of  the  inward  man,  by  several 
emphatick  ohs,  and  groans,  when  a  merry,  respec- 
table looking  Irishman,  whom  I  had  observed  a  prin- 
cipal promoter  of  the  revels,  tripped  in,  and  pre- 
sently addressing  himself  rather  to  the  thoughts 
than  the  words,  of  my  dolorous  snulf-coloured  friend, 
observed,  "  Now  for  my  soul,  I  cannot  see  any  dif- 
ference whether  we  jump  about  to  the  cat-gut,  or  sit 
still  with  our  hands  before  as  ;  the  time  is  but  spent 
one  way  as  well  as  the  other."  "  The  differerfce" 
retorted  the  saint,  (for  such  he  now  proved  himself 
to  be,)  "  is  that  the  one  can  be  done  to  the  gI'My 
to  God,  and  the  other  cannot."  Alas!  for  the  glory 
of  the  Almighty,  which  one  half  of  mankind  be- 
lieves itself  able  to  exalt  by  jumping  about,  and  the 
other  half  by  silting  still.  This  sour  fanaticism  is, 
however,  gaining  great  ground  in  the  States. 


m 


■"^s  .V 


[222 


■i  J 


CHAPTER  XXXIV. 


THE  NATURAL  BRIDGE. 


1 1  «- 


To  describe  the  Natural  Bridge  in  any  other  wordfe 
than  those  of  Mr.  Jefferson,  would  imply  a  stronger 
feeling  of  lis  beauty,  or  a  greater  power  of  descrip- 
tion than  his  :  I  pretend  to  neilber,  and  a  good  quo- 
tation is  better  than  original  insipidity. 

**  The  Natural  Bridge,  the  nio^t  sublime  of  Na- 
ture's works,  is  on  the  ascent  of  a  hii<,  which  seeras 
to  have  been  cloven  through  its  length  by  some  great 
convulsion.  The  6ssure  just  at  the  bridge  is  by 
some  admeasurements  '270  feet  deep,  by  others,  only 
205  :  it  is  about  forty-five  feet  wide  at  the  bottom, 
and  ninety  feet  at  the  top  ;  this  of  course  determines 
the  length  of  the  bridge,  and  its  height  above  the 
water.  Its  breadth  in  the  middle  is  about  sixty  feet, 
but  more  at  the  ends,  a.v*  the  thickness  of  the  mass 
at  the  summit  of  the  arch,  about  forty  (eet,  A  part 
of  this  thickness  is  constituted  by  a  coat  of  earth, 
which  gives  growth  to  many  large  trees :  the  resi< 
due,  with  the  hill  on  both  sides,  is  one  «4olid  rock  of 
limestone.  The  arch  approaches  the  semi  elliptical 
form;  but  the  longer  axis  of  the  ellipsis,  which  would 
be  the  chord  of  the  arch,  is  many  times  longer  than 
the  transverse.  Though  the  sides  of  (his  bridge 
are  provided,  in  some  parts,  with  a  parapet  of  fixed 
rocks,  yet  few  men  have  the  resolution  to  walk  to 
them,  and  look  over  into  the  abyss.  You  involun- 
tarily fall  upon  your  hands  and  feet,  creep  to  the 
parapet,  and  peep  over  it.  Looking  down  from  this 
height  about    a  minute  gave  me  a  violent  headacb. 


■"T\ 


THE    NATURAL    BRIDOB. 


223 


ther  words 

a  stronger 

jf  descrip- 

good  quo- 

inie  of  Na- 
hich  seews 
some  great 
ridge  is  by 
others,  only 
he  boltoodi 
determines 
above  the 
|t  sixty  feet, 
of  the  mass 
t.     A  part 
t  of  earth, 
:  the  resi- 
lolid  rock  of 
mi  elliptical 
hich  would 
longer  than 
[this   bridge 
pet  of  fixed 
to   walk   to 
on  involnn- 
:reep  to  the 
n  from  this 
it  beadacb. 


If  the  view  from  the  top  be  painful  and  intolerable, 
thai  trum  below  is  delightful  in  an  equal  extreme. 
It  is  impossible  for  ttie  emotions  arising  from  the 
sublime  to  be  fell  beyond  what  they  are  here :  so 
beautiful  an  arch,  so  elevated,  ao  light,  and  spring- 
ing up  as  it  were  to  heaven !  The  rapture  of  the 
spectator  is  really  indescribable !  The  fissure  con- 
tinuing narrow,  deep,  and  straight,  for  a  considerable 
distance  above  and  below  the  bridge,  opens  a  short, 
bu  very  pleasing  view,  of  the  North  Mountain  on 
the  one  side,  and  the  Blue  Ridge  on  the  other,  at 
the  distance,  each  of  them,  of  about  five  miles.  The 
stream  passing  under  the  bridge  is  called  Cedar 
Creek.  It  is  a  water  of  James'  River,  and  suffi- 
cient, in  the  dryest  seasons,  to  turn  a  grist-mill, 
though  its  tountoin  is  not  more  than  two  miles  above." 
— Notes,  p.  34. 

Mr.    Jotierson   prudently   abstains    from   building 
any  hypothesis  as  to  the  origin  of  this  natural  won- 
der :  the  Marquis  de  Chastellux  has  mure  chivalrous- 
ly made   the  attempt,   by  supposing    that  after  the 
draining  of  the  larger  valleys  by  the  et«cupe  of  their 
waters   through   the  mountain  gaps,  the  little   valley 
of  Cedar  Creek  served  as  u  partial  reservoir,  dam- 
med up  by  the  rock  of  the  ndtiual  bridge,  the  under 
part  of  which  they  undermined,  and  so  formed   the 
arch.     It   is  ditficult,  however,  to  conceive  how   a 
body  of   water  contained  within    this   liltle    ravine, 
and  consequently   in  a  quiescent  state,  could   have 
force  enough  to  break,  or  mine   through  a  mas'-  of 
rock  sixty  feet  in  ihicknes!>:  besides,   this   hypothe- 
sis still   loaves  the  extraordinary   circumstance   of  a 
wall  of  these  dimensions  crossing  the   valley,  unac- 
counted for.     Mr.   Jeilerson,   in  observing  on   Don 
Ultoa's  description  of  a  similar  break  in   the    pro- 
vince of  Anjarez,  in  South  America,   inclines  to  the 
opinion  that  in   both  cases  the  effect  had   been  pro- 
ducied  by  some  sudden  convulsion ;  a  less  favourite, 
because,    perhaps,  a    more   simple  hypothesis   than 
the  former.     Mr.  Jeflferson  is  the  proprietor  of  the 


,    \ 


'•••<,:■,    •■  <    •-»      »  • 


■  "»»♦  *"^-«'>. 


224 


THE   NATURAL    BRIDGE. 


•■    I 


Natural  Bridge,  and  commonlj  makea  a  visit  once  iu 
the  year,  **Xo  look  upon  its  beautj."^ 

Betwixt  Lexington  and  the  bridge  there  are  some 
grand  features  of  scenery,  particularly  at  the  mill 
and  village  of  Buffalo  Greek.  Betwixt  Lexington 
and  Wayenesborough,  I  found  the  roads  miry,  and 
the  country  heavy  ;  the  villages  few,  and  not  very 
pleasing  in  their  appearance ;  but  in  fact,  the  sea- 
son  for  the  picturesque  was  gone  by,  and  toiling 
through  dark  plashy  woods  began  to  be  tiresome 
work.  I  slept  a  night  at  the  tavern  of  Rock-fish 
Gap,  and  from  the  heights  above  the  house,  enjoy- 
ed a  last  view  of  the  valley  and  mountain  country  on 
one  hand,  while  on  the  other  I  looked  down  into 
the  lowlands,  over  an  immense  landscape  of  fertile 
country.  The  soil  on  this  side  the  ridge,  is  a  tenacious 
reti  clay,  "just,"  says  Volney,  "like  the  soil  of 
Aleppo,"  and  continues  such  most  of  th§  way  to 
Richmond.  w* 


* 


■:  \ 


1 


^1 


w..  ^ 


*"  From  the  Bridge  it  is  fourteen  miles  to  the  Peaks  of 
Otter.  Id  the  maps  the  distance  exceeds  forty  miles.  I 
found  basaltick  stones  scattered  in  great  abundance  about  a 
mile  from  the  bridge. 


4t 


.■HA?«^'  . 


im"^    I 


t1  ■>■»• 


•    V  ■    - 

..^f^>. 

'■'   i-v' 

'i.:>-'^- 

•  ■'■  ■•- 

'.* 

.  ■ : .  l"i 

/*  '■ 

V 

4 , , 

V  +':.'r 

('  /'■'.♦t.i  • 

f.  ,;, 

1.=  ■■  V .  < 

/•' 

-  >%.> '  _  : 

,..>. .  ^ 

.J    =: 

i  -:     ,  • 

l''^: 

>'  ""•"v     ' 

-  i      I.-  ;■        ^..»  'i      ■'  ■■.     • 


,',i;A)j::    r'p 


:'»*"nl.'    ;*■•-'■     .'*v.iA^^'  ■^■-' 


sit  once  in 


[  225   ] 


i  are  some 
t  the  mill 
Lexington 
miryt  And 
I  not  very 
t,  the  aea- 
ind  toiling 
s   tiresome 

Rock-fish 
lae,  enjoy- 
country  on 

down  into 
{  of  fertile 
a  tenacious 
the  soil  of 
the  way  to 


the  Peaks  of 
ty  miles.  I 
ice  arbout  a 


r 


CHAPTER    XXXV. 


MONTICELLO. 

xlAviNG  an  introduction  to  Mr.  Jefferson,  I  ascend* 
ed  his  little  mountain  on  a  fine  morning,  \vhich  gave 
the  situation  its  due  effect.  The  uhole  of  the  sides 
and  base  are  covered  with  forest,  through  which 
roads  have  been  cut  circularly,  so  that  the  winding 
may  be  shortened  or  prolonged  at  pleasure  :  the  sum- 
mit is  an  open  lawn,  near  to  the  south  side  of  which 
the  house  is  built,  with  its  garden  just  descending 
the  brow  :  the  saloon,  or  central  hall,  is  ornamented 
with  several  pieces  of  antique  sculpture,  Indian  arms, 
Mammoth  bones,  and  other  curiosities  collected  from 
various  parts  of  the  Union.  1  found  Mr.  Jefferson 
tall  in  person,  but  stooping  and  lean  with  old  age, 
thus  exhibiting  that  fortunate  mode  of  bodily  decay, 
which  srrips  the  frame  of  its  most  cumbersome  parts, 
leaving  it  still  strength  of  muscle  and  activity  of  limb. 
His  deportment  was  exactly  such  as  the  Marquis  de 
Chastellux  describes  it,  above  thirty  years  ago : 
"At  first  serious,  nay  even  cold,"  but  in  a  very 
short  time  relaxing  into  a  most  agreeable  amenity  ; 
with  an  unabated  flow  of  conversation  on  the  most  in- 
teresting topicks,  discussed  in  the  most  gentlemanly 
and  philosophical  (uanner.  I  walked  with  him  round, 
his  grounds,  to  visit  his  pet  trees,  and  improvements 
of  various  kinds  :  during  the  walk,  he  pointed  out  to 
my  observation  a  ronical  mountain,  rising  singly  at 
the  edge  of  the  soulhtrti  horizon  of  the  landscape  : 
its  distance  he  said,  was  40  miles,  and  its  dimensions 
tiiose  of  the  greater  Egyptian  pyramid  ;  so  that  it  ac- 

'J9 


|r 


r^ 


I 


226 


MONTICELLO. 


'!. 


RV     »   ! 


ciiralely  represents  the  appearance  of  the  pyramid  at 
the  same  ilisl;'ince  ;  there  is  a  small  cleft  visible  on  ita 
summit,  through  which,  the  true  meridian  of  Monti- 
cello  exactly  passes  :  its  most  singular  property,  how- 
ever, is,  that  on  diflferent  occasions  it  looms,  or  altera 
i(:t  appearance,  becoming  sometimes  cylindrical, 
sometimes  square,  and  sometimes  assuming  the  form 
of  an  inverted  cone.  Mr.  Jefferson  had  not  been 
able  to  connect  this  phenomenon  with  any  particular 
season,  or  state  of  the  atmosphere,  except,  that  it 
most  commonly  occurred  in  the  forenoon.  He  ob- 
served, that  it  was  not  only  wholly  unaccounted  for 
by  the  laws  of  vision,  but  that  it  had  not  as  yet  en- 
gaged the  attention  of  philosophers  so  far  as  to  ac- 
quire a  name ;  that  of  looming,  being  in  fact,  a  term 
applied  by  sailors,  to  appearances  of  a  similar  kind  at 
sea.  The  Blue  Mountains  are  also  observed  to  loomi 
though  not  in  so  remarkable  a  degree.* 

It  must  be  inieiesting  to  recall  and  preserve  the 
political  sentiments  of  a  man  who  has  held  so  distin- 
guished a  station  in  piiblick  lite  as  Mr.  Jefferson. 
He  seemed  to  consider  much  of  the  freedom  and  hap- 
piness of  America  to  aiise  from  local  circumstances. 
**  Our  population,"  lie  observed,  "  lias  an  elasticity, 
by  which  it  would  fl}'  otf  from  oppressive  taxation." 
Ho  instanited  the  beneticial  effects  of  a  free  govern- 
ment, in  the  case  of  New  Orleans,  where  many  pro- 
prietors who  were  in  a  state  of  indigence  under  the 
dominion  of  Spain,  have  risen  to  sudden  wealth, 
lolejv  by  the  rise  in  the  value  of  land,  which  followed 
a  change  of  government.  Their  ingenuity  in  me- 
chanical inventions,  agricultural  improvements,  and 
that  uiHSH  of  general  information  to  be  found  among 
Americans  of  all  ranks  and  conditions^,  he  ascribed  to 
that  ease  of  circiimHlances,  which  afforded  them  lei- 
sure to  cultivate  their  minds,  after  the  cultivation  of 


\^  V'  ■ 


*  Vide,  Tor  a  niuro  detailed  account  of  ttiis  plienomenoDi  in 
Notes  OQ  Virj^iula,  p.  Vi2, 


i  .t 


MONTICfiLLO. 


827 


pyramid  at 
sible  on  ita 
I  of  Monti- 
»erty,  how- 
s,  or  altera 
cylindrical, 
g  the  t'orm 
I  not  been 
particular 
pt,  that  it 
.  He  ob- 
;ounted  for 
as  yet  en- 
'  as  to  ac- 
iCt,  a  term 
ilar  kind  at 
sd  to  loonii 

eserve  the 

1  so  dialin- 

Jefferson. 

u  and  hap- 

jmstances. 

elasticity, 

taxation." 

je  govern- 

many  pro- 

iinder  the 

It   Health, 

1  followed 

y   in  me- 

ents,  and 

nd  among 

icribed  to 

them  lei- 

ivation  of 

oDienoD,  in 


their  lands  was  completed. — In  fact,  I  have  frequent- 
ly been  surprised  to  find  mathematical  and  other 
useful  works  in  housen,  which  seemed  to  have  little 
pretension  to  the  luxury  of  learning.  Another  cause, 
Mr.  Jefferson  observed,  might  be  discovered  in  ihe 
many  court  and  county  meetings,  which  brought  men 
frequently  together  on  publick  buiiiness,  and  thus 
gave  them  habits,  both  of  thinking  and  of  expressing 
their  thoughts  on  subjects,  which  in  other  countries 
are  confined  to  the  consideration  of  the  privileged 
few.  Mr.  Jeflerson  has  not  the  reputation  of  being 
very  friendly  to  England  :  we  should,  however,  be 
aware,  that  a  partiality  in  this  respect  is  not  absolute- 
ly the  duty  of  an  American  citizen  •,  neither  is  it  to 
be  expected  that  the  policy  of  our  government  should 
be  regarded  in  foreign  countries,  with  the  same  com- 
placency with  which  it  is  looked  upon  by  ourselves  : 
but  whatever  may  be  his  sentiments  in  this  respect, 
politeness  natiually  repressed  any  oflTonsive  expres- 
sion of  them  :  he  talked  of  our  afTiiirs  with  candour, 
and  apparent  good  will,  though  leaning,  perhaps,  to 
the  gloomier  side  of  the  picture.  He  did  not  per- 
ceive by  what  means  we  could  be  extricated  from 
our  present  financial  einbarrassment»,  without  some 
kind  of  revolution  in  our  governmt^nt  :  on  my  reply- 
ing, that  our  habits  were  remarkably  steady,  and  that 
great  sacrifices  would  be  made  to  prevent  a  violent 
catastrophe,  be  acceded  to  the  obsrrvatioii,  but  de- 
manded, if  those  who  made  the  sacrificts,  would  not 
require  some  political  reformation  in  return.  fl>^  re- 
pugnance was  strongly  marked  to  the  despolick  prin- 
ciples of  Bonaparte,  and  he  seemed  to  consider 
France  tmder  Louis  XVI.  as  scarcely  capable  of  a  re- 
publican form  of  governnient  ;  but  added,  that  the 
present  generation  of  Frenchmen  had  grown  up  with 
sounder  notions,  which  would  probably  leap  to  their 
emancipation.  Relative  to  the  light  in  which  he 
views  the  conduct  of  the  Allied  Sovereigns,  I  cannot 
do  better  than  insert  a  letter  of  hii  to  Dr.  Logan, 


I 


n'r  'r 


228 


MONTICELLO. 


dated  1 8th  October,  1815,  and  published  in  the  Ame- 
rican Newspapers :  .  k 


ft 


Dear  Sir, — I  thank  you  for  the  extract  in  yours 
of  August  16th,  respecting  the  Empeiour  Alexander. 
It  arrived  here  a  day  or  two  after  I  had  left  this  place, 
from  which  1  have  been  absent  about  seven  or  eight 
weeks.  I  had  from  other  information,  formed  the 
most  favourable  opinion  of  the  virtues  of  the  Empe- 
rour  Alexander,  and  considered  his  partiality  to 
this  country  as  a  prominent  proof  of  them.  The 
magnanimity  of  his  conduct  on  the  first  capture  of 
Paris,  still  magnified  every  thing  we  had  believed  of 
him  ;  but  how  he  will  come  out  of  his  present  trial, 
remains  to  be  seen :  that  (he  sufferings  which  France 
had  inflicted  on  other  countrieis,  justified  some  repri- 
sals, cannot  be  questioned,  but  I  have  not  yet  learn- 
ed what  crimes  Poland,  Saxony,  Belgium,  Venice, 
Lombardy,  and  Genoa,  had  merited  for  them,  not 
merely  a  temporary  punishment,  but  that  of  perma- 
nent subjugation,  and  a  destitution  of  independence 
and  self-government.  The  fable  of  JE^op  and  the 
Lion  dividing  the  spoils,  is,  I  fear,  becoming  true 
history,  and  the  moral  code  of  Napoleon  and  the  En- 
glish government,  a  substitute  for  that  of  Grotius,  of 
Puffendorf,  and  even  of  the  pure  doctrines  of  the 
great  author  of  our  own  religion.  We  were  safe  our- 
selves from  Bonaparte,  because  he  had  not  the  Bri- 
tish fleets  at  his  command.  We  were  safe  from  the 
British  fleets,  because  they  had  Bonaparte  at  their 
back,  but  the  British  fleets,  and  the  conquerors  of 
Bonaparte,  being  now  combined,  and  the  Hartford 
nation  drawn  off  to  them,  we  have  uncommon  reason 
to  look  to  our  own  affairs.  This,  however,  I  leave  to 
others,  offering  prayers  to  Heaven,  the  only  contri- 
bution of  old  age,  for  the  safety  of  our  country.  Be 
so  ;^ood  as  to  present  me  affectionately  to  Mrs.  Lo- 
gan, and  to  accept,  yourself,  the  assurance  of  my  es- 
teem and  respect. 

T.  Jefpkbson." 


(( 


I,"     I  ■  n 


aiONTICELLO. 


229 


he  Ame- 


in  yours 
exander. 
lis  place, 
or  eight 
med  the 
e  Ernpe- 
iality    to 
n.     The 
iptiue  of 
lieved  of 
cut  trial, 
I)  France 
me  repri- 
fei  learn- 
Venice, 
hem,  not 
►f  perma- 
pendencc 
I  and  the 
ing  true 
the  En- 
otiua,  of 
8  of  the 
safe  oiir- 
the  Bri- 
from  the 
at  (heir 
erors  of 
arlford 
In  reason 
leave  to 
contri- 
ry.    Be 
llrs.  Lo- 
my  es- 


;bson 


>' 


The  same  anxiety  for  his  country's  independence 
seems  to  have  led  him  to  a  change  of  opinion  on  ihe 
relative  importance  of  mannfaclories  in  America.     He 
thns  expresses  himself,  in  answer  lo  an  address  from 
the  American  society  for  Ihe  encouragement  of  manu- 
factories :  "J   have  read  with  great  ^atisiaclion,   the 
eloquent  pamphlet  you  were  so  kind  as  to  send  me, 
and  sympathize  with  every  line  of  it.     1  was  once  a 
doubter,  whether  the  labour  ui   tlie  cultivator,  aided 
by  the  creative  powers  of  the  earth  iisell,  would  not 
produce  more  value   than   ihat  ot   (he   manutaclurer 
alone,  and  unassisted  by  the  dead  tmibject  on   which 
he  acted  ;  in  other  words,  whether  the  more  we  could 
bring  into  action  of  tl.e  energies  ol  our  boundless  ter- 
ritory,  in  addition  to  the  labour  oi  our  (iiizens,  the 
more  would  not  be  our  gain.      Hui  the   inventions  of 
the   latter   times,    by   labom-bitviiij:  machines,  do  as 
much  now  for  the  manutacluier,  as   the  eailh  for  the 
cultivator.     Experience   loo,    Itas   |;iovcd  that   mine 
was  but  half  Ihe  cjiiestion  ;  the  other  half  is,  wlieilier 
dollars  and  centtn  are  to  be  weighed  in  the  scale  against 
real  independence.     The  quesiion  is  ihen  solved,  at 
least  so  far  as  respects  our  own  Ui«nls.      I   much  fear 
the  eil'ecl  on  our  inlant  establHlimtnl,  of  Ihe  policy 
avowed   by  Mr.  Brougham,  and  (|iiot<Ml   in  the  pam- 
phlet.     Individual  British  mereiinnis  may  lose  by  the 
late  immense  imporiatiuns ;  i  ul  Briii>h  commerce  and 
mannfac(oi'ies   in  the  ntass  will  giin,  bv  beating  down 
the  competition  of  ours  iti  our  own  markets,  &c." 

The  conversation  tuinmg  on  American  history, 
Mr.  Jeiler^ion  related  an  anecibiie  ol  ihe  Abbe  Jtav- 
nal,  which  serves  to  ^llew  how  lusloiy,  even  w  hen  it 
calls  itself  |ihilosophical,  is  wiilicn.  'J'lie  Able  was 
in  company  with  l)i.  Frimklin,  and  s«^cral  Ameri- 
cans a(  Paris,  w  lit  u  inenlioii  tliaiKed  to  be  made  oi 
his  anecdote  of  Polls  Bakei,  leluied  in  his  sixth  vol- 
lime,  upon  which  one  ol  the  rompHiiv  observed,  (hat 
no  Hiich  law  ar*  tluil  alluded  to  in  ih^-  story,  existed 
in  New   England  :  Ihe  Abbe  stonily  maintained  the 


if',.? 


'I 


230 


MONTICBLLO. 


authenticity  of  iiis  tale,  when  Dr.  Franklin,  who  had 
hitherto  reniiiined  silent,  said,  *'  I  can  account  (or  all 
this  ;  yon  took  the  anecdote  from  a  newspaper,  of 
which  I  was  at  that  time  edilor,  and,  happening  to  be 
very  short  of  news,  1  composed  and  inserted  the 
whole  story."  "  Ah  !  Doctor,"  said  the  Abhg  mak- 
ing a  Irne  French  retreat,  •'  f  had  rather  have  yoiir 
stories,  than  other  men's  trnlhri." 

Mr.  JetFerson  preferred  Bolta's  Italian  History  of 
the  American  Revolution,  to  any  that  had  yet  ap- 
peared, remarkini;;,  however,  the  inaccuracy  of  the 
speeches.  Indeed,  the  true  history  of  that  period 
seems  to  be  generally  con!»i«lered  as  lost  :  A  re- 
markable letter  on  this  point,  lalely  appeared  in  print, 
from  the  venerable  Mr.  John  Adams,  lo  a  Mr.  Niles, 
who  had  solicited  hh  aid  to  collect  and  publish  a 
body  of  revolutionary  spperhes.  He  says,  "  Of  all 
the  speeches  made  in  Coa^ress,  from  1774  lo  1777 1 
incl'isive,  of  both  years,  no(  one  sentence  remains,  ex- 
cept a  (e\9  periods  of  Dr.  Wilherspoon,  piinled  in 
his  works."  His  concluding  senlence  is  very  strong. 
"  In  plain  English,  and  in  a  few  wor.ls,  Mr.  Ndes,  1 
consider  the  true  history  of  the  American  revolution, 
and  the  establishment  of  our  present  constitutions,  as 
lost  for  ever;  and  nolhing  but  misrepresentations, 
or  partial  accoimts  of  it,  will  ever  be  reco\ered." 

I  slept  a  night  at  Monticeilo,  and  left  it  in  the 
morning,  with  such  a  feelmg  as  the  traveller  quits 
the  (nouldering  remains  of  a  Grecian  temple,  or  the 
pilgrim  a  fountain  in  the  desert.  It  would  indeed 
argue  great  torpor,  both  of  understanding  and  heart, 
to  have  looked  wilhont  veneration  and  interest,  on 
the  man  who  drew  up  the  declaration  of  American 
Independence  ;  who  share<l  in  the  cotmcils  by  which 
her  freedom  was  established  ;  whom  the  unbought 
voice  of  his  fellow-citiziMis  called  to  the  exercise  of  a 
dignity,  from  which  his  own  moderation  impelled  him, 
when  such  example  was  most  salutary,  to  withdraw; 
and  who,  while  he  dedicates  the  evening  of  bis  glo- 


it. 


MONTICELLO. 


231 


rious  days  to  the  pursuits  of  science  and  literature, 
shuns  none  of  the  humbler  duties  of  private  life  ;  hut, 
having  filled  a  seat  higher  than  that  of  kings,  suc- 
ceeds with  graceful  dignify  to  that  of  the  good  neigh- 
bour, and  beromes  the  friendly  adviser,  lawyer,' phy- 
sician, and  even  gardener  of  his  vicinity.  This  is 
the  "  still  small  voice"  of  philosophy,  deeper  and 
holier  than  the  lightnings  and  earthquakes  which 
have  preceded  it.  What  monarch  would  venture 
thus  to  exhibit  himself  in  the  nakedness  of  his  huma- 
nity ?  On  what  royal  brow  would  the  laurel  replace 
the  diadem  ?  But  ttiey  who  arc  horn  and  educated 
to  be  kings,  are  not  expected  to  be  philosophers. 
This  is  a  just  answer,  though  no  great  compliment 
either  to  the  governours  or  the  governed. 

My  travels  had  nearly  terminated  at  the  Rivan- 
nah,  which  (lows  at  the  foot  of  Monticello  :  in  trying 
to  ford  it,  my  horse  and  waggon  were  carried  down 
the  streau) :  1  escaped  with  my  servant,  and  by  the 
aid  of  Mr.  Jefierson's  domesticks,  we  finally  suc- 
ceeded in  extricating  my  equipage  from  a  watery 
grave.  The  road  to  Richmond  follows  the  James 
River,  and  has  few  features  to  attract  notice.  There 
are  no  towns,  and  very  few  villages.  Of  the  taverns, 
I  have  only  (o  remark,  that  Mrs.  Tisley's  is  a  clean, 
comfortable  house,  and  that  Mr.  Powell  is  a  very 
civil  landlord. 


iu 


i,  i 


[  232  ] 


CHAPTER  XXXVI. 


RICHMOND. 


a 


h' ' 


Richmond,"  says  (he  author  of  "  Letters  from 
Virginia,"  (and  I  prefer  the  lively  tints  of  his  pen- 
cil to  my  own  wintry  colouring,)  "  is  situated  on 
the  north  bank  of  Jatues  River,  about  a  hundred  and 
twenty  miles  from  its  mouth,  at  the  Falls,  or  head 
of  tide  water.  It  is  built  chiefly  upon  two  lofty  hills, 
the  northern  of  which  is  called  Shockoe,  (some  In- 
dian name  I  suppose,)  and  tiie  southern,  Richmond. 
The  former  of  these  furnishes  a  fine  extensive  plain 
on  its  summit,  and  is  the  p.incipal  seat  for  dwelling- 
houses,  the  Capitol,  and  other  publick  buildings  of 
the  city.  The  two  fiills  are  separated  by  a  large 
valley,  which  again  is  divided  by  a  little  stream  that 
runs  murmuring  through  it,  till  it  falls  into  the  river 
at  the  foot  of  them  ;  and  piirallel  to  the  James  is  a 
long  street,  perhaps  more  than  a  mile  in  length, 
chiefly  built  up  with  brick  houses,  for  stores  and 
other  pur[)oses,  hence  called  the  brick  row.  in  a 
line  with  this,  and  still  nearer  to  the  river,  are  small- 
er streets  of  less  importance,  [irincipally  0(  cupied 
by  warehouses,  and,  at  the  cml  of  it,  lies  the  port  for 
vessels  at  the  li^ad  of  the  navigation,  which  they 
call  Rocketls.  The  sihialion  of  the  place  is  pictur- 
esque and  beaufifid  beyond  my  expectation,  even 
after  all  I  had  heard  of  it.  The  river  before  the 
(own,  is  about  l<.;!t  a  oiilo  wide,  and  is  obstructed, 
not  only  by  the  lock^,  uliich  <M)ns(itute  the  Falls, 
but  by  several  wdd  and  f.uicifid  islands,  among  which 
it  flows   with  a  loud   and   agreeable  murmur,   very 


RICHMOND. 


23S 


ers  froQi 

his  pen- 

lated    on 

died  and 

or  head 

afty  hills, 

some  Ih- 

ichraond. 

ive  plain 

dwelling- 

Idings  ot 

y    a  large 

eain  that 

(he  river 

mes  is  a 

length, 

ores  and 

|v.     In  a 

re  small- 

(  cnpied 

port  for 

ch  they 

pictur- 

Hi,  even 

lore    the 

|trucled, 

Falls, 

Ig  which 

Ir,   very 


audible  in  the  stillness  of  the  night.     Before  you,  on 
the  opposite  side,  lies  the  neat  little  village  of  Man* 
Chester,    with    its    fine  green    fields    and    meadows, 
skirted   with   groves  of  woods,  and  rising  hills,  that 
seem   to  undulate   in   the  western  horizon.     Below, 
the  stream  having  disengaged  itself  from  the  rocks, 
steals   silently  away   from    your   eye,    hiding   itself 
among  the  trees,  and  appearing  again  at  a  little  dis- 
tance, shining  in   (he   sun,  and  reflecting  the  white 
sails  of  coming  and   departing  vessels  on   its  silver 
bosom.     Besides  all  (his,  the  neighbourhood  abounds 
with   the   finest   walks,    prospects,    groves,  and,    in 
short,  every  convenience  tor  sighing,  that   (he  lover 
or    (he  poet   could    desire."       As    a   drawback   to 
these   beauties,    <*  the  private  houses  are  generally 
without  taste.     They  are  indeed,  for  (he  mos(  part, 
built  of  coarse  bricks,  blackened  by  being  burnt  with 
coal,  which  gives  rather  a  sombre  air  to  the  (own, 
in  8pi(e  of  all  (he   gli((er  of  weal(h  and  fashion  in 
the  streets.     With  the  publick  buildings   too,  where 
more  might  be  expected,  the  case  is  not  a  great  deal 
better.     The  Oovernour^s  house  is  but  an  ordinary 
affair  at  best.     The  Capitol,  indeed,   (though  it  will 
not  bear  a  critical  eye,)  standing  on  the  brow  of  the 
Shockoe  hill,  and  overlooking  the  surrounding  city, 
and  country,  presents  a  flne  bold  object  in  the   pic- 
ture from  almost  every  direction.     Its  interiour  is  di- 
vided   into  various   apartments  for    the  publick  of- 
fices, courts,  and  the  two  houses  of  the  General  As- 
sembly.   These  are  spacious  and  convenient  enough  ; 
but  without   any    peculiar    elegance.      In    the  anti- 
chamber,   or   passage,    is   a    fine    marble    statue    of 
Washington,  executed  by  our  countryman,  Uoudon, 
in  his  best  style.     Opposite  to  it,  in  a  niche  in  (he 
wall,  stands  a  bust  of  (he  Marquis   La  Fayette,  pro- 
bably by  the  same  artist.     It  is,  perhaps,  a  strong 
proof  of  the  veneration  in  which   the  originals  are 
held,  that  the  sculptures  are  not  mutilated,  (hough 
they   are  works  of  taste.     With  regard  to  (he  in- 

ao 


234 


RICHMOND. 


<  i 


faabitanfs  (always  the  best  or  worst  part  of  a  city,) 
1  am  sorry  to  say  Jhey  are  not  exactly  to  my  taste; 
that  is,  not  all  of  them.  Perhaps,  indeed,  1  am  hard- 
ly well  enough  acquainted  to  form  a  correct  judg< 
ment  at  present ;  but  I  must  confess  they  do  not 
strike  me  very  agreeably  at  first  sigh».  At  least,  the 
higher  classes  (as  they  doubtless  consider  themselves 
in  spite  of  their  republican  government)  appear  to 
have  put  on  a  set  of  manners  by  which  they  proba- 
bly design  to  please  themselves,  for  they  surely  can- 
not intend  to  please  any  body  else.  These  generally 
live  in  a  state  of  ambitious  rivalship  with  one  another, 
each  endeavouring  to  surpass  his  neighbour  in  fash- 
ion and  folly,  a  very  unprofitable  contest  at  best. 
After  these  gentry,  however,  (who,  indeed,  are  chief- 
ly of  foreign  extraction,  I  believe,)  you  may  meet 
with  many  of  the  true  old  Virginia  breed,  frank, 
generous,  and  hospitable,  whom  it  is  a  real  pleasure 
to  shake  by  the  hand.  For-  the  ladies,  they  are 
generally  like  the  rest  of  their  fair,  countrywomen, 
and  certainly  exhibit  a  great  deal,  if  not  *  all,  that 
the  eye  looks  for,  and  the  heart  desires  in  woman.'  " 
— Letter  xxi. 

It  is  not  to  be  expected  that  my  experience  of  a 
week  empowers  me  either  to  confirm,  or  refute,  this 
censure  :  as  far,  however,  as  it  went,  I  found  the  in- 
habitants of  Richmond  polite  and  affable,  and  well 
disposed  to  admit  strangers  to  tfteir  societies  and 
amusements. 

Of  the  Virginian  character,  generally,  my  impres- 
sions were  not  favourable.  They  seem,  especially 
the  plantation* bred  Virginians,  to  have  more  preten- 
sion than  good  sense :  the  insubordination,  in  which 
they  glory,  both  to  parental  and  scholastick  authority, 
produces,  as  might  be  expected,  a  petulance  of  man- 
ner, and  frothiness  of  intellect,  very  unlike  what  we 
may  imagine  of  the  old  Romans,  to  whom,  in  their 
modesty,  the  Virginians  affect  to  compare  themselves. 
— Having  given  four  Presidents  to  the  United  States, 


RICHMOND. 


235 


woman. 


they  are  fain  to  8uppos>e  they  have  obtained  a  mono- 
poly of  genius,  as  well  as  of  power,  and  hold  in  true 
regal  disdain  the  honest  simplicity  of  their  Yankey 
brethren.  These  observations  do  not,  however, 
apply  to  (he  inhabitants  of  the  Upper  Country,  who 
seem  to  be  generally  a  race  of  plain  industrious  farm- 
ers, with  both  the  sound  sense,  and  unaffected  man- 
ner, peculiar  to  this  class  of  people  throughout  the 
Union. 

As  the  Virginians  feel  destined  to  govern,  and  as 
persuasion  is  a  necessary  instrument  for  this  purpose, 
eloquence  is  their  favourite  study  ;  but  one  of  their 
contrymen  is  best  able  to  describe  their  efforts  and 
success  : — "  The  people  of  this  State  insist  upon  it, 
that  they  have  the  patent  right  for  making  speeches. 
Eloquence,  indeed,  (of  some  sort  or  other)  is  almost 
the  only  road  to  fame  and  influence  in  the  State. 
Every  youth,  of  course,  who  has  been  led  to  believe 
that  be  has  any  talents  at  all,  immedialely  turns  his 
whole  attention  to  the  science  of  spouting.  The 
consequence  is,  that  (he  land  is  literally  over-rua 
with  orators  of  all  sorts  and  sizes,  almost  as  numerous 
and  noisy  as  the  frogs  in  the  plague  of  Egypt. — In  the 
first  place,  we  have  (hepolificalspou(ers,who  are  found 
in  every  hole  and  corner  of  the  favoured  land ;  but 
particularly  in  the  court-yard  and  tavern.  The  ta- 
vern, especially,  seems  to  be  a  very  favourite  haunt  for 
.these  young  orators  ;  whether  it  is  that  the  long  porch 
invites  thetn  by  certain  classical  associations,  from 
its  resemblance  to  (he  schools  of  some  among  the 
ancient  rhetoricians  ;  or  rather,  as  others  sup- 
pose, that  the  bar-room  contains  some  secret  stimu- 
lants of  eloquence,  more  sovereign  than  all  the  pre- 
cepts of  Quintilian.  Jt  is,  indeed,  very  amusing  to 
hear  one  of  these  talking  Jacks  (as  you  may  call 
them,)  when  it  has  been  properly  screwed  up,  seated 
by  the  tire,  and  unwinding  itself  in  long  disr;>urses 
upon  liberty,  the  rights  of  man,  the  freedom  of  the 
seas,  general  suffrage,  or  something  of  that  sort.     Its 


,n| 


V 

1 

i 

■ 

•4, 

■ 

i 

If 

236 


RICHMOND. 


whole  conversation  is  one  incessant  harangue.  In- 
deed, to  speak  strictly,  it  never  converses  at  all; 
but  declaims  upon  you  without  any  reasonable  allow- 
ance for  the  delicacy  of  your  ears.  And  yet,  really 
when  it  cocks  its  feet  up  against  the  mantle-piece, 
its  favourite  oratorical  attitude,  and  lets  out,  as  ihej 
call  it,  you  can  form  no  idea  how  eloquent  it  is. — 
Next  in  order  to  these  come  the  '  Fourth  of  July 
Orators,*  or  as  they  would  doubtless  prefer  to  be 
styled,  the  '  Orators  of  the  Human  Race.'  These 
are  men  who  set  up  once  a  year  (generally  in  very 
hot  weather)  to  proclaim  their  independence  with  a 
loud  voice,  and  abuse  the  British  con  amore.  In 
fact,  they  sometimes  carry  their  malice  so  far,  as  to 
vent  their  spite  upon  the  very  language  they  speak 
in,  its  unoffending  parts  of  speech,  and  innocent  rules 
of  syntax,  only  because  they  are  English,  I  presume. 
Nothing  seems  to  be  requisite  for  the  perfection  of 
these  things,  but  a  plenty  of  hard  names,  abuse  against 
tyranny  and  oppression,  a  panegyrick  upon  liberty, 
and  five  or  six  apostrophes  to  the  dead  heroes  of 
the  revolution ;  the  whole  accompanied  with  an  en- 
tire new  set  of  mouths  and  faces  made  on  purpose 
for  the  occasion.  Add  to  this,  the  words  selected 
for  this  service  must  all  be  as  long  as  possible,  ses- 
quipedalia  verba;  or  tri-syltables  at  least;  and  none 
under  that  size  should  be  received,  any  more  than 
a  man  under  six  feet  could  have  been  admitted  into 
the  King  of  Prussia's  tall  regiment.  I  can  only  say 
of  them,  as  poor  Desdetnona  said  of  the  wad  speech* 
es  of  her  jealous  husband, 

**  I  understand  a  fury  in  the  words ; 
•'  But  not  tlie  words — " 

"But  besides  these  engaging  speakers,  we  have 
still  another  class  of  orators,  called  Slang-whangers, 
who  are  also  sometimes  known  by  the  name  of  Stump- 
orators,   from   their  generally    choosing   to    deliver 


i\      '■:) 


RICHMOND. 


'237 


ngue.  In- 
ies  at  all ; 
tbie  allow- 
yel,  really 
ntle-piece, 
il,  as  ihey 
[)t  il  is. — 
h  of  Juljr 
;fer  to  be 
.'  These 
y  in  very 
ice  with  a 
more.  In 
far,  as  to 
hey  speak 
)cent  rules 
I  presume, 
ifection  of 
use  against 
)n  liberty, 
heroes  of 
ith  an  en- 
[)  purpose 
selected 
sible,  ses- 
and  none 
i)ore  than 
iUed  into 
only  say 
d  speech* 


we  have 

hangfcrs, 
Stiunp- 
deliver 


tbeir  harangues  from  the  stump  of  a  free,  or  a  horse- 
block, or  sodie  other  appropriate  place  of  this  sort. 
For  you  must  know,  these  are  the  men  who  under- 
take to  resuiafe  elections,  and  to  ciiange  the  votes 
in  the  courl-viird,  before  the  opening  of  the  poll.  I 
have  observed  they  are  all  passionately  fond  of  the 
w>ird  Republican ;  which  seems  to  comprise  all  the 
excellence  of  oraiory  in  itself,  and  is  generally  look- 
ed upon  a>>  a  very  good  substitute  for  both  reason 
and  cotntnon  sense." — Letters  from  Virginia, — Let- 
ter xxii. 

The  same  lively  writer  thus  describes  the  impor- 
tation of  foreign  impostors,  who  play  ofl'  on  the  cre- 
dulity of  his  countrymen  : 

"  All  I'uii  nations  of  Europe  are  very  generous  to 
«s  in  tliM  way,  and  we  have  no  right  to  complain  of 
any  of  Ihein  for  not  furnishing  its  full  quota.  In- 
deed, thfy  all  seem  to  pity  our  poor  republicanism, 
anf4  very  cheerfully  club  their  mites  to  give  us  a  de- 
cent stock  of  their  cast-off  gentry,  to  keep  up  our 
credit  in  the  world.  Our  old  friend,  Great  biitain, 
in  particular,  is  very  good  to  us  ii  fleed.  Peihaps 
she  thinks  it  but  right  to  make  us  some  amends  for 
the  shabby  population  she  gave  i;s  to  begin  with. 
However  this  may  be,  nhe  is  ceitaiuly  most  bountiful 
in  her  sujiplies  of  great  men  :  though  to  be  sure  she 
does  not  sen  !  her  grand  dignitaries  themselves,  but 
only  their  cousins  and  acquaintances, — good  enough 
for  our  market.  Thus  we  can  shew  men  who  have 
corrected  the  speeches  of  Pitt,  at  his  own  request, 
rattled  a  box  with  Charles,  or  even  betted  against  the 
Prince  of  W.des  at  Newmarket  ;  but,  after  all,  these 
are  little  fellows  by  the  side  of  the  French  marquisses 
and  'uarshals  of  the  empire." — Letter  xxiii. 

This  cullability  of  Virginians  the  writer  attributes 
to  \  unity,  and  a  pa3!i>ioi)  for  whatever  comes  from 
Europe,  to  wliu'h  ihey  are  still  in  (he  habit  of  look- 
ing up  for  moiie'ft  in  every  thing:  —  "Above  all," 
he  adds, "  Republicans  as  they  are,  they  have  a  hu- 


/' 


I   ! 


A  . 


i,.' 


238 


BiCHMOIfD. 


man  hankering  after  lords  and  gentry  ;  and,  as  beg- 
gars must  never  be  choosers,  it  is  rie;ht  for  fhern  to 
put  up  with  such  as  they  can  get." — Letter  xxiii. 

Let  me  close  these  extracts  (and  ihey  contain,  per- 
haps, no  little  satirical  exaggeration)  with  a  trait  of 
feeling,  which,  as  an  Englishman,  I  cannot  but  con- 
sider as  honourable  to  the  Virginian  character.  The 
Attorney  General  of  the  State,  at  a  late  publick  din- 
ner, gave  as  a  toast,  "  Wilson,  Bruce,  and  Hutchin- 
son !  The  age  of  chivalry  is  not  past,  nor  the  glory 
of  Europe  extinguished  for  ever." 


[   250  ] 


,  as  beg- 
r  them  to 
r  xxiii. 
itain,  per- 
a  trait  of 

but  con- 
er.  The 
blick  <Vm- 

Hutchin- 
the  glory 


CHAPTER  XXXVII. 


RICHMOND  TO  CHARLESTON. 


Jan. 


Manchistir 

1  1-2  Milef 

17th, 

Peimsbiirg 

22  1-2 

Billii'gs  Tavern 

9 

Hanisiviiie 

23  1-2 

Fprcival's  Tiivera     . 

11   14 

Gholsoii's  Tavern 

9  1-2 

I8th, 

North  Carolina 

13  3  4 

Warrpnion 

16  3  4 

19th, 

Lotiishiirg 

25 

Adcijck's  Tavern 

1*  1-2 

20th, 

Raleiji;!)     . 

16  14 

Averisboro' 

.•^5 

2lst, 

Fayetteville     . 

25  1-2 

CoiinRell'!-  Tnvern     . 

15  14 

Luiiibeiton 

W  1-2 

Rowland's  Tavern     . 

13  3-4 

South  Carolina 

6  3  4 

22d, 

Kewsome's  Tavern    . 

11  3-4 

Stage  house 

13  34 

G.  Pedee  River 

14  12 

Lynch's  Creek 

4  12 

China  Grove    .        , 

15  1-2 

Blrtcii  River      . 

7  1-2 

23d, 

Georgetown 

14 

Santfe  Rivnr     . 

15  3-4 

Tweflen  Cottons 

10  1  4 

Wapetaw  Church      . 

17  1-2 

Greenwich 

14  34 

24th, 

Charleston 

3  3  4 

421  3-4 


A.  OLANCB  at  the  foregoing  table  indicates  the  Btate 
of  the  country.  The  stages  arr  no  longer  marked 
by  towns  and  villages,  ImK  by  solitary  taverns  and 
Btage-houaes.  The  best  part  of  the  country  lies  be- 
twixt Petersburg  and  Faye<'  \':\\e,  being  within  the 
limits  of  the  granite  ledge  ■    Hie  noil  is   a  mixture  of 


4^ 


240 


RICHMOND    TO    CHARLESTON. 


Fi  '     A 


sand  and  clay,  tolerably  fertile  :  the  woods  are  g,ene' 
rally  of  oak,  hickory,  and  walnut,  with  here  and  there 
pine-barrens,  and  swatnps  :  —  bii(  I  can  say  little  of 
the  state  or  appearance  of  the  Carolinas,  for  at 
Richmond  I  exchanged  my  con\enient  Dearborn  for 
a  seat  in  the  mail,  to  be  conveyed  at  its  discretion  to 
Charleston. 

In  New  En«:land  they  have  adopted  the  fashion  of 
our  staee-coaches  ;  but  the  primitive  *'  ilemocratical 
machine*'  is  still  used  in  the  Southern  stales;  to  em- 
bark in  one  of  which  is  no  light  service,  for  they 
break  down  on  an  avera£;e  twice  a  week,  mo  that  the 
wrecks  and  the  maimed  are  always  to  be  found  on  the 
road.  Betwixt  Richmond  and  Petersburg  all  was 
well :  the  weather  was  fine,  and  our  horses  ran  away 
but  twice,  killed  but  one  pig,  and  lamed  but  one  pas- 
senger :  but  on  the  morning  of  the  18th  the  wind 
came  from  south  to  north-west,  and  brought  down 
the  thermometer  to  14"  with  a  heavy  fall  of  snow,  in 
which  we  set  off  in  the  dark,  packed  in  every  posture 
of  purgatory,  with  trunks,  packages  and  elbows, 
squeezing  and  distorting  our  shivering  limbs,  while 
we  were,  at  the  same  time,  cheered  with  the  anticipa- 
tion of  being  upset  among  the  holes  and  swamps, 
which,  now  concealed  by  snow,  were  to  be  guessed 
at  in  the  dark  by  our  negro  coachman,  who,  to  do 
him  justice,  managed  the  matter  with  what  seemed  to 
me,  miraculous  dexterity.  1  was  not  sorry  to  halt  at 
Warrenton,  and  await  the  next  day's  mail ;  but  in  one 
night  the  Roanoke  was  frozen  over,  and  the  ferry 
stopped,  so  I  went  on  to  Fox's  tavern,  near  Louis- 
burg,  in  a  private  conveyance  with  a  gentleman  1  fell 
in  with  at  the  tavern. 

I  had  occasion,  during  (his  part  of  my  journey,  to 
feel  the  truth  of  a  common  remark,  that  one  suflTers 
more  through  cold  in  a  temperate,  or  even  warm  cli- 
mate, than  in  a  cold  one.  The  cold  in  Canada  is  so 
completely  subdued  by  stoves  within,  and  furs  with- 
out uoors,  that  it  seldom  causes  inconvenience ;  where- 
an  in  Carolina,  where  I  expected  to  have  escaped 


RICHMOND    TO   CHARLESTON. 


Ui 


ire  g.ene- 
irid  there 
r  little  of 
I,  for  at 
»boi»)  for 
:  re  lion  to 

'ashlon  of 
riocratical 
3 ;  to  em- 
for  they 
>  that  the 
nd  on  the 
r  all  was 
ran  aveay 
I  one  pas- 
the    wind 
rht   down 
snow,  in 
y  posture 
d   elbows, 
bs,   while 
anlicipa- 
swarnps, 
£;iiesMed 
10,  to  do 
ceaied  to 
to  halt  at 
lilt  in  one 
he   ferry 
r  Louis- 
lan  1  fell 

irncy,  to 
|e  nuflfers 
irarm  cli- 
lada  is  so 
[irs  with- 
;  where- 
escaped 


its  dominion,  it  made  travelling  highly  disagreeahle. 
The  houses  are  all  built  of  scantling,  and  are  worse 
than  any  thing  in  the  form  of  dwellings,  but  the  ne- 
gro huts ;  for  they  are  penetrable  at  every  cre- 
vice;  while,  from  the  usual  mildness  of  the  weather, 
doors  have  become  altogether  released  from  the  duty 
of  beina  shut.  Indeed  they  have  seldom  a  latch, 
and  Ml.  Fox,  to  whom  I  was  deploring  this  neglect, 
observed,  that  they  generally  considered  a  door's 
being  shut  as  a  sign  nobody  was  at  home.  It  must, 
however,  be  noticed,  that  they  had  not,  for  many 
years,  experienced  such  a  severe  cold  as  the  present. 
The  crew  of  a  schooner,  on  lake  Ponchrtrtrain,  was 
frozen  to  death  on  the  l!'lh.  On  the  same  dav  the 
mercury  descended,  at  BHJlimore,  to  tJ"  below  zero, 
a  moie  intense  cold  than  was  ever  remembered  to 
biive  been  felt  there.  At  Charleston  it  was  down  to 
17",  and  I  found  all  the  oiMiige-trees  wilh  their  fiiiit 
looking  as  if  seared  by  fne.  Near  Raleigh  a  man 
was  frozen  to  death  on  the  19th,  yet,  when  I  was 
there,  on  the  2lsl,  the  thernmtnrler  rone  to  71°. 

Raleigh  is  the  capital  of  North  Carolina,  an<t  seems 
a  clean,  little  country  town.  At  one  enil  of  ihe  prin- 
cipal, or  rather,  only  street,  stands  the  Governour'i 
brick-house,  and  at  the  other  the  senate,  or  court- 
house, surrounded  by  a  grass  plot  neatly  laid  out. 
Tiie  houses  are  »:mall,  and  built  of  scantling.  Some 
of  them  have  their  foundations  of  the  talcons  granite 
of  the  ledge,  which  is  the  oidy  stone  in  the  country. 
The  total  want  of  limestone,  and  scarcity  of  brick 
earth,  render  it  extremely  dilficnlt  and  expensive, 
to  give  bnihlings  any  »le:i;ree  of  s'ubilily.  The  stage 
stops  half  a  day  at  Ralcip;!!,  which  enabled  me  to 
have  a  morning's  (piail  shooting  wilh  two  gentlemen, 
one  of  whom  had  fallen  in  love  wilh  my  pointer,  on 
my  alighting  at  the  tavern;  and  if  any  conclusion 
can  be  drawn  fioin  two  chance  spct'imens,  society 
at  Raleigh  is  by  no  means  in  a  pitiable  condition. 

At  Fayelteville  the  road  again  crosses  Ihe  granite 
ledge,  and  traverses  n  desolate  tract  of  swamp  and 

•I 


1^ 


Kd*- 


i   '1 


I'!  ■■  ';: 


;:.|  \ 


242 


RICHMOND    TO    CHARLESTON. 


qandy  pine-u-ooiis  to  Georgetown.  In  all  this  dis- 
tance, Luiiiberlon  is  the  onl^  clump  of  bouses  te 
wliit  h  loiirlesy  can  apply  the  name  of  a  village  : 
the  tavern  here  is  kept  by  a  general  of  militia,  who 
seemed,  indeed,  to  have  more  of  the  spirii  of  the  sol- 
dier than  of  the  landlord,  for  he  declined  taking  pay- 
ment for  the  refreshment  he  verv  civilly  prepared 
for  me.  A  tract  of  couniry  like  (he  above  can  have 
litlle  variety  of  srenery  ;  the  hea\y  dreariness  of  the 
pine-barrens  was,  however,  somelimes  relieved  by 
the  verdure  of  the  swamps,  whirh  were  ro\ered  with 
bii:fht  evergreens,  through  which  the  road  frequent- 
ly ran  for  some  distance,  as  through  a  puik  shrub- 
bery. 

Our  passage  of  (he  Pedee  was  picturesque  enoughi 
but  the  coloiiting  was  something  too  Hornbre  to  be 
beautiful:  we  approached  the  river  at  night;  several 
Greeks  were  previously  to  be  crossed  ;  a  heiivy  show- 
er had  fallen  and  frozen  on  its  desienl,  so  that  every 
branch  and  twig  was  inca.sed  in  ice  :  the  bankn  oC 
these  creeks  were  high  ;  the  bridges  cons^isled  mere- 
ly of  pine-logs  liiid  cioss-ways,  without  parapet  or 
railing;  they  were  now  as  slippery  as  glass,  and  the 
hordes,  as  is  usual  in  these  isandy  roads,  bad  no 
shoes.  I  was  dozing  in  the  dark  when  I  was  awaken- 
ed by  (he  voice  of  the  driver,  vowing  that  nothing 
should  tempt  him  to  encounter  a  danger  like  that  he 
had  just  escaped.  He  had  past  one  bridge,  another 
remained,  and  he  kept  his  vow  :  but  what  was  to  be 
done  lo  escape  sleeping  in  the  woods  ?  The  bridge 
roighl  be  avoided  by  an  old  road  through  a  swamp, 
supposed  to  be  impassable  :  here,  however,  we  were 
to  make  the  attempt.  Branches  of  pine  were  cut 
and  lighted  for  torches,  and  we  proceeded  through 
the  woods.  Afier  sonv  mistakes  and  more  oaths 
we  found  the  bog,  which  indicated  we  were  in  (he 
right  way — "to  be  upnet,"  I  *t«ij|  to  myself;  but  we 
dashed  through  it  up  to  the  traces,  with  crash,  whip, 
and  hidloo.  Such  iir  (Mjnipage,  ii.  such  a  place,  with 
the  torches,  and  negroes,  and   har:ih  sounds,   more 


.»hV^ 


'  w 


RICHMOND   TO    CHARLESTON. 


243 


tbia  dis- 
[joijsea  t«   , 
I   village  : 
lilia,  who 
,f  the  sol- 
iking  pay- 
prepared 
can  have 
less  of  the 
lie  veil   by 
\ereil  with 
1  ficqiient- 
uik  Bhrub- 

iie  etiougbi 
\\)re  10   be 
ht ;  several 
e;\vy  show- 
lha«   every 
t;   bankn   oC 
iisled  mere- 
para  pel    or 
aB9,  aiul  the 
ds,  had   no 
was  awaken- 
lat   nothing 
ike   that   he 
ge,  another 
I  was  to  be 
The  bridge 
)  a  awampi 
|er,  we  were 
were  cut 
|ed  through 
more  oat  hi 
vere  in  the 
|eir ;   but  we 
rash,  whip, 
place,  with 
lunda,  more 


resembled  a  vehicle  for  the  transport  of  the  damned 
to  their  iiiferiial  dwelling,  than  a  stage-coach  in  a 
rational  country.  Nor  was  the  reseaiolance  dimin- 
ished when  we  arrived  at  the  river  brink  :  a  fire  was 
kindled,  and  gleamed  redly  on  the  blacl;-looking 
stream  below  ;  and  after  many  blasts  of  the  iiorn, 
an  old  canoe,  steered  by  a  shivering  negro,  wrapf  in 
a  hiankti,  came  to  terry  us  over  :  "  Aoc/tj'er  dclla 
livida  jtalnde.**  With  difticulty  we  stowed  ouriselves 
into  bis  wet,  crazy  bark,  and  were  landed  in  (he 
mud  on  the  oppo^^ite  shore,  whence  we  sciauibiod  to 
the  ferry-house  a»!»l  lavcrn.  It  was  now  fuur  in  the 
morning  ;  a  sharp  visaged  old  woman  was  waiting 
our  arrival,  and  had  prepared  a  meal  of  no  templing 
aspect,  which  she  chose  to  call  supper,  and  ivhich 
it  was  expected  passeiiaers  should  pay  fiu",  if  not 
eat.  The  driver'^  ujan,  v  ho  iiad  ciossed  with  us, 
now  wanted  to  return  :  the  old  woman  began  to  rouse 
the  nesiro,  who,  shivering  in  the  cold  til  of  an  ague, 
had  crept  to  his  hut ;  he  replied  to  her  shrill  (ones 
hat  he  was  too  ill  to  come  out,  and  should  (iie  if  she 
Dreed  him;  '*  You  can  die  but  once,"  said  ilie  l)el- 
dame,  **  so  come  you  must."  This  man  was  an 
African,  and  could  scarcely  speak  English  iniellj;<;i- 
bly  ;  douhiless,  however,  he  tell  the  tilessed  exch.iit^e 
from  his  own  barbarous  country  to  a  land  of  reason 
and  liberty. 

A  singular  peculiarity  of  vegetation  marks  the 
proximity  of  the  coast.  The  trees  within  thirty 
miles  of  it  are  covered  with  a  curious  vegetable  dra- 
pery, which  hangs  from  them  in  lon^  curling  tendrils, 
of  a  gray  or  pale  green  colour.  It  bears  a  small  blue 
flower,  succeeded  by  a  pbuned  seed,  which  adheres 
to  the  bark  of  trees.  The  live  oak  seems  its  most 
genial  soil ;  but  it  suspends  Itself  from  trees  and 
shrubs  of  every  description  ;  and  as  it  has  no  tenaci- 
ty, but  bangs  like  loose  gauze  drapery,  it  probahly 
does  them  no  injury.  The  Carolinians  use  it  for 
stuffing  matrasses,  and  they  oltscrve  it  is  never  fourul 
without  the  range  of  the  yellow  fever. 


f 


:i 

m 

^ 


r  ii 


;/ 


<  ( 


1 


!:ti  '  ' 


i  244  ] 


CHAPTER  XXXVIII. 


CHARLESTON. 


OTREks^TB  iinpaved  and  narrow,  small  wooden  houses, 
from  among  which  rise,  in  every  quarter  of  the  town, 
stalely  mansions,  surrounded  from  lop  to  bottom  with 
hroad   verandas,   and    standing   within   little  gardens 
full  of  orange  trees,  palmeltoes,  and  magnolias,  are 
features  which  give  Charleston  an  expresJ«ion  belong- 
ing rather  to  the  south  of  Europe,  than  to  the  Teuto- 
nick    cities    of   the    north.         Perhaps,    taking    into 
view  its  large  black  population  and  glowing  tempera- 
ture in  January,  it  is  not  very  unlike  some  of  the 
cities  on  the  Mediterranean  coast  of  Africa.")^      In 
other  respects  it  is  a  nuble  monument  of  what  human 
avarice  can  effect  :  its  soil  is  a  barren  burning  sand  ; 
with  a  river  on  eitHf>r  siiie,  overflowing  into  pestilen- 
tial marshes,  which  exhale  a  contagion  so  pernicious 
as   (o   render  sleeping  a  single   night   within   its   in- 
fluence, during  the  summer  months,  an  experiment  of 
the  ulinoi<t  hazard.     Even  the  town  is  no  place  of  re- 
fuge during  the  holleHi  part  of  the  season  :  all  the  in- 
habitants who  can  aflford  it,  then  fly  to  a  barren  sand- 
bank in  the  harbour,  ciillpd  Sullivan's  Inland,  contain- 
ing one  well,  and  a  lew  paimelloes:   here  they  dwell 
in   mi^^erable  wooden  teneinenls,   trembling  in  every 
8lor(n,  lest,   (as  very  frequently  happens,)   their  hid- 
ing places  hhould  be  blown  from  over  their  heads,  or 

*  I  obsnrvp.d  another  (">ri«'ntttli''in  ;  tlie  otflrr  ol'sravrnprrs  is 
IiIIihI  l)y  tMri'on  viiltiiros,  who  ar*'  prnlrctrH  hy  Inw  lor  their 
firrvires,  and  t'lililled  tu  devour  all  ofl'al  uiulor  the  guarantee 
of  the  rc|)ublick. 


CHARLESTON-. 


245 


n  houses, 
the  town, 
itlom  with 
e  gardens 
loliatt,  are 
on  belong- 
he  Teiito- 
iking   into 
g  leinpera- 
iiiie  of  the 
ica.*      In 
hat  human 
ning  sand  ; 
to  pestilen- 
pernicious 
jhin   its  in- 
eriment  of 
;)|j»ce  of  re- 
all  the  in- 
rren  Hand- 
id,  (Oiitain- 
ilhey  ilwell 
£  in  every 
their  hid- 
headfl,  or 

Isravrnprrs  it 
lt«w  lor  tht'ir 
hic  guarantee 


dehiged  by  an  inundation  of  the  sea.  But  what  will 
not  men  do,  and  bear,  for  money  ?  These  pesiileniial 
marshes  are  found  to  produi  e  good  rice,  and  the  ad- 
jacent a'lhivions  cotton  ;  true  it  is,  no  European  frame 
could  support  the  labour  of  cultivation,  but  Africa 
can  furnish  slaves,  and  thus,  amid  contagion  and  suf- 
fering, bosh  of  oppressors  and  oppressed,  has  Charles- 
ton become  a  wealthy  city — nay,  a  religious  one 
too  ;  to  judge  by  ;he  number  of  churches  built,  build- 
ing, and  to  be  built. 

1  inquired  the  cause  of  what  seemed  to  me  an  ano- 
maly in  the  history  of  planters,  and   was  itiformed, 
that  this  devotional  access  came  on  about  the  period 
of  the  French  revolution,  in  consequence  of  very  se- 
vere alarm  at  the  danger  to  which  religio»i  and  social 
order  were  exposed.     The  Carolinians  proceeded  in 
consequence  to  amend  their  lives,  not  as  a  mere  mo- 
ralist might   have  imagined,  by  amending  their  slave 
code,  by   providing  for  the  instruction,   and   pa\ing 
the  way  for  the  total  emancipation  of  the  many  thou- 
sands of  their  fellow-creatures,  whom   they   held  in 
stiipes    and    bondage.      This,    indeed,    would    have 
been,  to  a  certain  extent,  imitating  the  revolutionists 
themselves  ;  they  therefore   took,  not  only  an  easier 
course,  but  one  they  had  reason  to  think  much  more 
acceptable,  because  a  more  per'^onal  compliuieni,  to 
the  Deity  whom  they  professed  to  serve  ;  they  built, 
and  frequented  many  churches,  heard,  and  read  many 
sermons,  and  bought  and  sold  their  brethren  as  be- 
fore. 

Charleston  has  a  great  reputation  for  hospitality,  a 
virtue  very  generally  conceded  to  llie  Americans, 
even  by  those,  who  are  willing  to  deny  them  e\ery 
other:  in  my  judgment,  (heir  fame  in  this  respect,  as 
much  exceeds  their  deserving,  as  in  utosi  other  cases 
it  falls  below  it.  Hospitality,  in  the  true  sense  of  the 
word,  meak.s  that  liberal  enleitainmenl,  which  spreads 
a  couch  and  table  for  the  stramrer,  merelv  bet  ause 
he  in  a  stranger  :  this  was  (he  hospitality  of  the  an< 


ijii 


246 


CHARLEBTOK. 


!     5 


■:H 


!  r 


I 


■   !i 


IIV    I 


*  1 


cients,  and  is  still  that  of  the  Arabs,  Tartars,  and  iin- 
corrupted  Indian  tribes ;  it  was  also  that  ot  the  Ame- 
rirans  themselves  in  a  less  advanced  stale  of  society  : 
Mr.  Jefferson  told  me,  that  in  his  fathers  time,  it  was 
no  uncommon  thing  for  gentlemen  to  post  their  ser- 
vaiiis  on  the  main  road,  for  the  purpose  of  amicably 
way-laying,  and  bringing  to  their  houses  any  travel' 
lers  who  might  chance  to  pass.  Of  such  violence  not 
a  particle  is  now  to  be  apprehended,  at  least  in  the 
old  Siates.  While  f  was  in  the  north,  I  was  constant- 
ly told  of  the  hospitality  of  the  south  :  At  Philadel- 
phia, I  toud  it  ice-bound,  at  Baltimore  there  was  in- 
deed a  thaw,  but  at  Washington  the  frost,  probably 
from  the  congenial  influence  of  politicks,  was  harder 
than  ever;  the  thermometer  rose  but  little  at  Rich- 
morid,  and,  when  1  arrived  at  Charleston,  I  was  en- 
tertained, not  with  its  own  hospitality,  but  with  an 
eulogium  upon  that  of  Boston. — 1  ilid  not  retrace  my 
steps,  to  put  the  matter  to  proof. — Tlie  experience 
of  an  individual  would  not  be  very  conclusive,  were 
hospifality  a  discriminating  virtue  ;  but  its  essence  ig 
prodigality,  and  the  name  of  stranger,  the  only  requi- 
site passport  to  its  favour.  Ot  such  hospitality,  the 
traveller  will  find  nothing,''^  except,  indeed,  his  rank 
or  character  should  be  such,  as  to  give  an  eclat  to 
his  entertainers.  The  ordinary  pilgrim  must  be  con- 
tent, ^f  his  lettets  of  introduction  procure  him,  as  they 
certainly  will,  a  courteous  reception,  and  a  dinner. 
He  will  also  find  a  ready  and  polite  admission  into 
general   society.     And    this    ought    to   satisfy   him. 

'''  If  I  liave  any  wtierc  in  my  travels  npoken  of  hospitality,  it 
was  for  want  of  a  ()ettcr  word  to  express  the  politeness  with 
whirh  a  stran)?er  is  orca<iionally  entertained.  Of  true  hospita- 
lity I  met  witli  but  two  instniioes,  one  in  a  young  Farmer,  who 
lived  on  tiio  Grand  Hiver.  and  who,  though  in  very  middling 
cireumstancos,  most  litiorally  received  and  entertained  me, 
during  my  visit  to  the  Indian  Settlements.  Tlie  other  at  Mrs. 
Nairn's,  where  a  table  and  l>ed  are  always  prepared  for  travel- 
lers. I  mi;^lit,  pert  'ps,  make  a  third  uf  the  rosy  Priest  of  Les 
Kbnulemens. 


CHARLESTON. 


247 


and  iin- 
e  Ame- 
iociely : 
;,  it  was 
lieii-  ser- 
mirably 
/  travel- 
ence  not 
fit  in  the 
lonstant- 
Philadel- 
B  Wii9  in- 
probably 
18  harder 
at  Rich- 
[  was  en- 
t  with  an 
trace  my 
cperience 
ve,  were 
jssence  is 

y  requi- 
ility,  the 

his  rank 
eclat  to 
be  con- 

,a3  they 
dinner. 

sion  into 

sfy  him. 

piiality,  it 
eness  with 
le  hospita- 
irm»'r,  who 
y  middling 

ained  me, 
ler  at  Mrs. 

lor  travel- 
Iie8t  of  Les 


As  long  as  there  are  taverns  open  he  has  no  claim, 
and  ever>*civirny  is  a  matter  of  grace.  The  human 
mind,  is,  however,  slow  to  di^irard  an  opininn  it  has 
once  cherished.  Hospitalily  is  still  talked  of,  both 
by  Americans  and  strangers,  as  if  it  were  still  alive. 
The  free  reciprocation  of  civilities  betwixt  citizens  of 
different  states,  when  connected  by  commercial  or 
Other  ties,  fosters  the  delusion.  The  New  York 
merchant  is  liberally  entertained  at  Charleston,  and 
he  of  Charleston  receives  an  adequate  return  of  civi- 
lities at  New  York.  This  is  not  hospit.ility,  but  a 
mutual  exchan(>;e,  founded  on  mutual  convenience. 
Let  not,  however,  a  t:hange  of  customs  be  considered 
a  reproach.  Society  has,  in  all  countries,  moved, 
through  (he  same  gradations,  and  each  stage  of  its 
progress  has  been  marked  by  its  appropiiale  virtues, 
crimes,  and  follies.  Hospitality  belongs  to  that  pe- 
riod, which  in  a  certain  point  of  view,  is  to  be  styled 
barbarous  ;  and  would  become  a  super-human  virtue, 
were  it  to  survive  the  moment  when  it  ceases  to  be 
as  pleasing  to  the  entertainer  as  necessary  to  his 
guest.  It  probably  still  lingers  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mississippi,  it  will  accompany  the  advanced  guard  of 
settlers  down  the  shores  of  the  IVlissouri;  be  driven 
from  thence  to  the  neightxHirhood  of  the  Columbia, 
and  finally  «lrowned  in  the  Piuifirk. 

I  sailed  from  Chiirlrsion  on  the  2*2d  of  February, 
and  on  the  30lh  of  March  welcomed  the  hills  of  mv 
country. 


t 


tSX 


% 


W 

m  • 

■ml      '' 

< 

i 

^ 


N 


APPENDIX. 


n 


1 

\ 


No.  I. 

OP  SLAVERY  IN  THE  UNITEO  STATES. 

There  seems  little  in  slavery  and  slave  dealing 
to  captivate  either  the  judgment  or  the  heart,  yet 
they  have  always  found  advocates,  not  merely  among 
dealers  and  planters,  but  men  who  appear  to  love 
them  for  themselves :  this  too  without  any  natural 
sympathy  with  cruelty,  for  many  would  shudder  to 
inflict  on  an  individual  of  their  acquaintance,  an  iota 
of  the  suflfering  they  uphold  as  fit  to  be  the  portion 
and  daily  bread  of  thousands,  but  from  the  influence 
of  authority,  prejudice,  or  from  an  inaptitude  to  in- 
vestigate any  subject  beyond  the  line  of  their  ordi« 
nary  occupations. 

As  such  persons  scarcely  aflect  to  reason,  or  in- 
quire, it  is  difficult  to  discover  on  what  grounds 
they  rest  their  opinions :  the  few  who  pretend  to 
speak  from  experience,  have  seldom  more  to  urge 
than  the  experience  of  good  West-India  dinners  ;  and 
how  can  any  thing  be  <wroog  where  people  dine  so 
well?  The  many,  who  have  made  up  their  mindi 
by  mere  dint  of  not  thinking  on  the  matter,  take  fast 
hold  upon  some  one  of  the  many  bold  falsehoods,  or 
skilful  sophisms,  with  which  those  interested  in  the 
^raffick  are  ever  ready   to  furnish  such  as  find  it 

32 


I! 


I      II 


i 


■f 


I  '         I 


I 


250 


APPENDIX. 


troublesome,  or  fancy  it  unsafe,  to  use  their  own  un- 
derstandingi) ; — as  for  instance — 

Negro  slaves  are  better  off  than  the  poorer  classes 
in  many  European  countries. — They  are  quite  con- 
tented  with  their  situation,  except  when  perverted 
by  their   pretended  friends. — It    is  the    proprietor's 
interest  to  use  them  well,  and   therefore  he   does  use 
them    well ;—- or  the  abolitionists  are  melhodists,  ja- 
cobins,   or    enthusiasts,    and   therefore    unfit   to    be 
trusted  with  reforms  of  any   kind  ;  besides,   slavery 
has  existed  time  out  of  mind,  and  why  is  the  present 
generation  to  pretend  to  more  wisdom  and  humanity 
than  their  forefathers  ?  Their  very  good  nature  leads 
them  to  disbelieve  most  of  the  cruelties  they  hear 
related  as  connected  with  the  slave-system,  or  should 
the  evidence  of  particular    facts  occasionally  over- 
power their  prejudice,  they   readily   a(imit,  that  as 
negroes  are  constitutionally  diO'erent  from  while  men, 
they  require  a  different  treatment,  so  that  what  may 
seem  harsh  to  us,  and  would  in  fact  be  harsh  to  peo- 
ple of  our  complexion,   is   no  more   to   them  than  a 
salubrious  regimen.     Such  advocates,   however  con- 
temptible as  logicians,  are  of  great  numerical  impor- 
tance.    They  constitute   the  standing  army  of  cor* 
ruption  in  all  shapes ;  are  always  to  be  found  among 
the  supporters  of  power,  and   may  be   depended  on 
as   the    steady  friends    of  whatever   is    established. 
To  the  efforts  of  the  enlightened  few,  they  oppose 
the  inert  resistance  of  impassive  matter  ;  a  resistance 
which   gains    respect  by  seeming  disinterested,  and 
remains    unassailable,  because,  like    the   tortoise,    it 
presents  no  vital  point  of  attack.     Self-interest  takes 
the  field   with   better  artitour,  and   more   enterprise, 
but  the    combat    would    be   short-lived,   did  he  not, 
after  each  discomfiture,  find  refuge  within   the  shell 
of  his  simple   ally.     Fortunately,  this  class  of  good 
sort  of  credulous  gentlemen,  is  less  numerous  in   the 
States  than  elsewhere:  few   can  be   unint'ortiied,   or 
are  unaccustomed  practically  to  examine  every  ques- 


K 


APPENDIX. 


'2b  I 


r  own  un- 

ler  classes 
|uite  con- 
peiveited 
ro(>i'ietor's 
does  use 
loilists,  ja- 
[ifit   to    be 
8,   slavery 
he  present 
1  humanity 
ature  leads 
they  hear 
t,  or  should 
nally   over- 
nit,  that  as 
while  men, 
t  what  may 
arsh  to  peo- 
hem  than  a 
►wever  con- 
ical impor- 
rmy  of  cor- 
jund  among 
epended  on 
established. 
ey  oppose 
a  resistance 
rested,  and 
tortoise,   it 
teresi  takes 
enterprise, 
did  he  not, 
II   the  shell 
,ss  of  good 
rous  in   the 
loriiied,   or 
lever)'  ques- 


tion connected  with  the  publick  weal  ;  and  this  dis- 
position has  been  highly  tavourable  to  tiie  cauae  of 
emancipation. 

Slavery  has  been  formally  excluded  from  the  con- 
stitution of  each  state  ailiiiitted  into  the   LTnion  since 
Kentucky.     Even  in  Virginia,  il  seems   to  have  few 
supporters  out  of  the  immediate  classes  of  dealers 
anil  planters.     During  my  journey  through  the  up- 
per, and  mountainous   parts   of  the  country,    1    bad 
frequent   occasion  to    hear   farmers,  and  men  of  all 
descriptions,  express  their  dislike  to  it,  not  indeed, 
as  a  violation   of   humanity,  but  as  a   political  evil, 
which  substituted  bud  labour  for  good,  an   unsound 
population  for  an  healthy   one.     In   fact,    the   only 
desoriplion  of  cultivators  really  interested  in  its  pi  e- 
servation,  are  the  planters  of  the  coast-line,  whose 
infectious  rice-grounds  can  be  cultivated  by  nct^roes 
only  :  here  therefore  the  resistance  to  its  abolition 
will  be  lasting  and  steady  ;  but  even  here  nature  in- 
terposes to    diminish   the  evil.     Experience    begins 
to   teach,    that  health   and   labour  are  preferable  to 
indolence  and  disease.     The  low  marshy  coast  lands 
are  daily  abandoned,  wbile  the   muunlain  connlry  is 
peopling  with  its  emigrants.     So  much   is   this    the 
case,  that  I  was   told  by  many,  that   the    wolves  and 
bears  which  formerly  inhabited  the   latter,  have  suc- 
ceeded to  the  wildernesses  of  the  former,  in  which 
they  are  now  almost  exclusively  to  be  found.     An- 
other  favourable    circumstance    is,    that    rice-hnds 
make  no  auequate  return  if  beyond  the  reach  oi  (he 
tidewater;  but  the  rivers  of  the  Caroimas  and  Geor- 
gia, descending  through   a  sandy  flat,   arrive   at   the 
sea    with    so  little  force   of  current,    that    they  are 
unable  to  remove  the  sand-banks  and  other  obstruc- 
tions constantly  forming  at  their   mouths  :  the    har- 
bours are   therefore  becoming    more    and  more    un- 
safe :  the   bar  of  Charleston  is  with  difllcnlty    pas!^a- 
ble  by  a   vessel  of  300  tons,  except  under  very  fa- 
Tourable  circumstances  of  wind  and  tide.     From  the 


( 


i 


m 


..   i^**- 
'  -m 


iM 


h 


iPv 


'  n 


252 


APPENDIX. 


same  causes,  the  ascent  of  the  tide  inland  is  con- 
tinually diminishing,  and  the  quantity  of  land  favoura- 
ble  to  the  culture  of  rice,  necessarily  decreases  in 
the  same  proportion. 

Thus,  while  the  Eastern  and  Central  States  ag- 
gregately, and  the  most  enlightened  individuals  of 
all  states,  continue  to  wage  the  combat  of  humani- 
ty, the  dominion  of  slavery  is  narrowed  on  every 
side,  and  the  hope  may  be  indulged,  that  its  total 
extinction  is  neither  improbable,  nor  even  very  far 
distant. 

It  remains  to  satisfy  a  melancholy  curiosity  res- 
pecting the  actual  condition  of  slaves  in  the  United 
States  both  in  law  and  fact.  Information  on  the  lat- 
ter point  is  little  attainable  by  a  cursory  traveller. 
The  planter  will  not  present  himself  to  his  examina- 
tion, with  his  memorandum  book  of  the  stripes  and 
tortures  he  has  inflicted,  and  of  the  groans  which 
have  followed :  the  information  he  affords,  should  he 
.afford  any,  must  come  through  a  doubly  distorted 
medium ;  as  a  planter  he  is  interested  in  concealing 
whatever  militates  against  the  slave  system  :  as  an 
American  he  is  interested  in  vindicating  the  national 
character  to  a  foreigner.  The  testimony  of  the  slave 
would  gain  no  credit  from  the  enemies  to  his  eman- 
cipation ;  nor  will  travelling  through  the  country 
suffice  to  shew  the  workings  of  a  system,  the  most 
odious  part  of  which  is  necessarily  withdrawn  from 
the  publick  eye.  I  can  therefore  delineate  such 
broad  outlines  only  as  are  incapable  of  concealment ; 
leaving,  not  to  the  imagination,  but  to  inductive  rea- 
son, the  filling  up  of  the  picture. 

The  law  by  which  slaves  and  free-men  of  colour 
are  governed  in  the  Carolinas  (and  1  believe  the  same, 
or  a  similar  code  prevails  in  all  the  Slave  States) 
Ai  a  Provincial  Act  past  in  1740,  and  made  perpe- 
tual in  1783.  It  commences  by  a  heart  chilling 
enunciation ; 


APPENDIX. 


253 


id  is  con- 
I  favoura* 
ureases  in 

States  ag- 
iriduaU  of 
if  humani- 
on  every 
at  its  total 
I  very  far 

•iosity  res- 
he  United 
on  the  lat- 
'  traveller. 
B  examina- 
tripes  and 
tans  which 
should  he 
T  distorted 
concealing 
em  :  as  an 
he  national 
)f  the  slave 
his  eman- 
te  country 
the  most 
rawn  from 
eaie    such 
icealment ; 
luctive  rca- 

of  colour 

|e  the  same, 

ive  Stales) 

lade  perpe- 

Irt  chilling 


"  Whereas  in  his  Majesty's  Plantations,  &c. 
Slavery  has  been  allowed,  be  it  enacted,  That  all 
negroes,  miilattoes,  &c.  who  are,  or  shall  hereafter 
be,  in  this  province,  and  all  their  issue  and  ofl- 
spring,  born,  and  to  be  born,  shall  be,  and  are  here- 
by declared  to  be,  and  remain  for  ever  hereafter 
absolute  Slaves."  A  clause  follows  from  which  the 
most  iniquitous  oppressions  are  at  this  day  deduc- 
ed ;  "  It  shall  always  be  presumed  that  every  negro 
is  a  slave  unless  the  contrary  can  be  made  ap- 
pear." 

The  9th  clause  gives  two  justices  of  the  peace, 
and  three,  of  five  freeholders,  the  power  of  ♦ry'nj^ 
slaves  for  capital  offences,  and  of  carrying  iheir  i.t\\< 
tence  in.o  effe«  t ;  that  is  ok  inflio'iitg  such  ^;an.*!fc'r 
of  death  "  as  they  shall  judge  wiil  be  nost  edtcctual 
to  deter  others  from  offending  in  V'V.e  mani^er.'* 

The  I3th  clause  admits  the  eviri?i!i<;  e  of  lU  free 
negroes,  and  of  any  slave  against  a  Tiave  "  Wilhout 
oath." 

Clause  14th.  "  And  v.hecas  slj^vea  ,iiaj  be  har- 
boured, &c.  by  free  negroes,  and  suet;  free  negroes 
may  escape  punishment  for  want  of  s<aw<''en;  mA 
legal  evidence  against  them,  be  it  enacle«J,  T}iai  the 
evidence  of  any  free  Indian,  negro,  i?,.u.  oi  itJavj, 
without  oath,  shall  in  like  manner  ht  alia  ned  and 
admitted  against  such  free  negroe?.  &c. 

The  34th  clause  prohibits  any  master  fi  jtn  s'lfier- 
ing  a  slave  to  traffick  on  his  own  accoiimf,  fhii>  cut- 
ling  off  the  most  unobjectionable  mode  by  which  the 
slave  of  a  benevolent  master  might  ascend,  throug,i> 
an  equality  of  condition,  to  an  equality  of  rights  .vith 
the  white  man. 

The  37th  clause  presents  an  exquisite  specimen 
of  that  legislative  cPiUt  and  crieltv  v\ti!  T^Mch  (he 
governments  of  all  nations,  frGit,'  Ijtiie  (c  t; lire,  edify 
their  country  and  ma;ikind ;  "And  whereas  cruelty 
is  not  only  highly  unbocomin^  ihose  who  profess 
themselves  Chnstic.'.iS,  bni  is  odious  in  the  eyes  of 


li 


f;     m 


1 


f 


.1 


1 .  1  '.'i 


2.'i4 


AfPENDIX. 


1* 


i 


all  men  who  ha-  e  any  sense  of  virtue  or  hiinianily, 
therefore,  to  restrain  and  prevent  barbarity  Iroin 
being  exercised  towards  slaves,  be  it  enacted.  That 
any  person  wilfully  luurdering  a  slave  shall  forfeit 
700/.  currency,  (i.  e.  100/.  sterling:)  and  if  any  per- 
son siialt  on  a  sudden  heat  and  passion,  or  by  undue 
correction,  kill  his  own  slave,  or  slave  of  another 
person,  he  shall  forfeit  360/.  currency,  (/.  e.  501. 
sterling.") 

The  3(Uh  enacts  a  penally  of  14/.  for  cutting  out 
the  tongue,  dismembering  and  other  tortuies,  indict- 
ed by  any  other  instrument  than  a  horsewhip,  cow- 
skin,  or  small  stick. 

The  39th  is  a  legislative  premium  upon  perjury  ; 
it  enacts,  That  when  a  slave  is  maimeii  or  cruelly 
used,  his  owner  shall  be  presumed  gudty  ;  *'  unless 
he  clear  himself  by  evidence,  or  make  oath  to  the 
contrary." 

By  clause  43d  any  white  man  meeting  above 
srven  slaves  on  a  high  road  together  "  shall  and  may 
whip  each  of  them,  not  exceeding  twenty  lashes  on 
the  bare  back." 

The  4.'>th  inflicts  a  penally  of  100/.  currency  for 
teaching  a  slave  to  write. 

Such  is  the  code  by  which  Christians  govern 
Christians  ;  nor  is  it,  in  any  point,  a  dead  letter. 
The  fears  of  the  proprietors  are  tremblingly  alive, 
and  racked  with  the  dread  of  an  insurrection,  in 
which  they  must  expect  the  measure  they  have 
meted.  A  military  police  is  constantly  kept  up  in 
Charleston,  and  every  man  of  colour,  whether  slave 
or  free,  found  in  the  streets  after  dark,  without  a 
pass,  is  taken  up,  and  puniahed.  In  fact,  the  con- 
dition of  the  free  man  of  colour  is  scarcely  pre- 
ferable to  that  of  a  slave  :  subjected  to  the  same 
V  mode  of  trial,  ekposed  to  the  same  jealous  surveil- 
lance, carefully  excluded  from  all  the  rights  and 
privileges  of  citizenship,  and  surrounded  by  every 
kind  of  snares,  both  legal  and  ille^vtl,  hii  freedom 


't 


4 


"-^ 


Jl 


APPENDIX. 


255 


iinianity, 
ity  Irom 
!d,  That 
II  I'orteit 
any  per- 
ly  undue 
unuther 
.  e.   501. 

itting  out 
s,  indict- 
lip,  cow- 
perjury  ; 
r  cruelly 
<'  unless 
li   to  the 

ng  above 
I  and  may 
lashes  on 

rency  for 


9   govern 
d   letter. 
gly  alive, 
iction,   in 
hey  have 
;pt   up  in 
her  slave 
thout  a 
he  con* 
ly  pre- 
lie  same 
surveil- 
ghts  and 
y  every 
freedom 


v;i 


CO 


seems  but  a  mockery  superadded  to  oppression. 
The  slutule  declares  that  every  man  of  culuur  shall 
be  preaufjMMj  a  slave  :  every  newspaper  is  a  com- 
menlary  un  the  injustice  and  barbarity  of  this  enact- 
ment ;  tneiy  Uu)  irien  of  colour  are  advertised  as 
taken  up  on  suspicion  of  being  slavch :  they  are 
committed  to  jail,  and  if  no  owner  appears,  are 
sold  to  pay  expenses.  Rut  the  direct  operation  of 
the  law  is  not  all  the  free  man  of  colour  has  to 
dread. 

The  humane  exertions  of  some  gentlemen  of  the 
Charleston  bar  have  lately  brought  to  light  a  singu- 
lar system  for  kidnapping  free  negroes,  and  selling 
them  as  slaves  into  Kentii«;ky,  or  any  Stale  at  a 
distance  from  their  connexions.  The  agents  were 
a  justice  of  the  peace,  a  constable,  and  a  slave 
dealer. 

The  process  was  as  simple  as  unblushing  villainy 
could  devise.  A  victim  having  been  selected,  one 
of  the  firm  applied  to  the  justice  upon  a  sham  charge 
of  assault,  or  similar  offence,  for  a  wiit,  whit  h  was 
immediately  issued  and  ser\cd  by  the  constable, 
and  the  negro  conveyed  to  prii«on.  Here,  without 
friendb  or  money,  he  is  to  await  hi'>  trial  for  some 
unknown  crime,  charged  against  hiin  by  hoimc  un- 
known acruHer:  no  wonder  if  in  this  desohtte  con- 
dition his  spirit"  (<ink,  and  his  fears  anfii  ipale  the 
worst  :  the  t'onslable  now  appears,  exaggerates  the 
dangers  of  his  situation ;  rxphiins  bow  small  is 
his  chance  of  being  libera  ed,  «'\«n  if  innocent,  by 
reason  of  the  amount  ot  the  jail  fci  h  and  other  legal 
expenses  ;  but  he  knows  a  worth}  man  who  is  in- 
terested in  his  behalf,  and  will  do  what  is  necessary 
to  procure  his  freedom,  upon  no  hnidcr  condition 
than  an  cngagemtiit  to  serve  him  lor  a  certain  number 
of  years.  It  iimy  be  supposed,  the  negro  is  persuad- 
ed ;  **  influenced  perhaps,  (as  the  counbcl  for  the 
defendants  obnerved,  on  the  trial,)  by  the  charms  of 
a  country  life."     The  worthy  slave  dealer  now   ap- 


'i:J(« 


A 


\ 
I! 


I      ' 


256 


APFCXDIX. 


pears  on  the  stage.  The  iiidendire  of  bondage  is 
ratified  in  presence  of  the  worthy  magistrate  bnd 
constable,  who  share  the  price  of  blood,  and  the 
victim  is  hurried  on  ship-board  to  be  seen   no  more. 

This  trafHck  had  been  long  carried  on,  when  hu- 
manity discovered  and  exposed  it  in  a  court  of  jus- 
tice ;  but  since,  by  the  present  law,  there  is  no  such 
offence  as  inan-slealing,  it  could  be  punished  as  false 
imprisonment  only.  Shonid  not  however  the  shame 
of  discovery  produce  a  stronger  impression  on  the 
parlies  engaged  in  this  iniquitous  traffick,  than  can 
be  expected  from  their  depraved  habits,  it  is  more 
than  probable,  it  will  continue  to  be  carried  on  with 
keener,  and  perhaps  uibre  atrocious  dexterity  than 
before. 

He  must  be  a  very  sanguine  enthusiast  in  favour 
of  human  nature,"^  who  believes  that  the  negro,  thus 
protected  by  the  laws,  will  be  very  tenderly  cherish- 
ed by  his  master.  The  uncontrolled  will  of  the 
moit  virtuous  individual  would  be  a  fearful  thing  to 
live  under,  but  the  brutal  passions  of  the  sordid,  the 
cruel,  and  the  ignuiant,  scourges  which  might  well 
"appal  the  guilty  and  confound  the  free,"  are  the 
rule  by  which  at  least  nine-tenths  of  the  slave  popu- 
lation are  governed.  If  so  governed,  they  are  mildly 
and  justly  governed,  we  must  admit  the  constant 
operation  in  their  favour  of  a  miracle  strong  enough 
to  invert  the  whole  moral  order  of  nature.  To 
render  tigers  granivorous  would  be  comparatively 
easy. 

It  is  not  impossible,  but  that  the  house  servants 
and  personal  dornesticks  of  humane  and  enlightened 
maxtcrs,  may  be  in  a  conditior  not  in  every  respect 
much  worse  than  that  of  persons  filling  the  same 
station    in  European  countries ;    but  it  is  not  from 

*  The  AbolitinniKt*)  are  charged  witti  an  affcrtatinii  of  phl- 
lanlliropy,  l>»rHiiM)  I  hoy  thinic  lilack  iii«>ii  have  tlie  Ninnr  ted- 
iiii^^  n-ith  whitp;  hiil  it  i%  th<*  vny  iiobriely  of  rouou,  to  as- 
«  rib«  to  platilsm  tlie  virtues  ol'ai)|«li. 


!  \ 


APPENDIX. 


257 


dag;e  is 
te   und 
nd   the 
I  more, 
len  hii- 
of  jus- 
10  such 
as  false 
>  shame 
on  the 
lan   can 
is  more 
on  with 
ty   than 

favour 

;ro,  thus 

cherish- 

of  the 

thing  to 

did,  the 

ght  well 

are  the 

e  popu- 

mildly 

onstant 

enough 

le.      To 

iralively 

lervants 

jghtened 

respect 

le    same 

tt  from 

of  phi- 
inr  lecl- 
|>u,  to  as- 


the  good  fortune  of  this  minute  portion,  we  can  de- 
duce a  fair  estimate  of  the  condition  of  the  many. 
It  is  in  the  plantation,  and  principally,  perhaps, 
among  the  petty  proprietors,  the  work  of  torture 
goes  on.  An  occasional  irdii^nce  of  atrocity  some* 
times  meets  the  publick  eys,  ind  sheds  a  lurid  light 
upon  a  region  "  where  ^ope  never  comes." 

I  shall  advert  to  a  few  such  particulars,  in  the 
mode  of  treating  slaves,  as  being  matters  of  publick 
notoriety,  admit  of  no  dispute,  and  therefore,  afford 
true  bases,  upon  which  to  discuss  the  question  of 
their  physical  enjoyments. — First  then  for  their  lodg- 
ing.  If  there  be  any  sensation  to  which  the  negro 
is  by  conalitntion  peculiarly  alive,  it  is  that  of  cold. 
I  have  mentioned  the  degree  of  cold  in  the  Caroli- 
nas  during  my  journey  through  them  ;  this  it  must 
be  owned,  was  greater  than  is  usual,  so  far  south  as 
the  Roanoke,  but  a  much  less  degree  is  sufficient  to 
chill  frames  unbraced  by  a  climate  hot  and  moist 
in  summer  to  an  excess.  In  Mar}' land  and  Virginia 
several  months  of  the  winter  are  as  severe  as  in  En- 
gland.* 

The  hut  which  is  to  shelter  the  negro  during  this, 
to  him,  inclement  season,  is  built  of  legs  or  nnsquared 
trunks  of  pine  trees,  so  carelessly  put  togetler,  that 
as  I  travelled  through  the  country  by  night,  the 
fire-ii^ht    shone    through    every    part    of    them,    as 


through   wire  lanterns :  true  it   is,    they 


may 


have 


•'Tptfc  cdte  (l.'Atlantiqiip)  fprouvc  do<  attaqiiPH  dp  gcl(5eg  Di«e« 
vivps  d»n*  loi  qiinr^inlu  joiiri*  <|iil  miivtMit  If*  soUticp  ilMiivri'  A  Norfolk, 
)e  14  Kfvrirr.  ITItS,  il  timihn  i' iik  iiii«'  iiuit  (lu.itre  int-dH  df  iipigp ;  ft  i 
ChurlP^toi)  iiitine  pur   Its  W'S^  <\v  Inliliidr,    1p   iiKicun'   tomhf  junqim'  i 

Juntre  dpi{r6  »oin  «6ro  (scKm  liiaiKMiuit.)  et  la  lerrp  (iili-  ffium  jiifqiin'  i 
nix  ponri't  d'ouuiiiHt'iir  d^ini  urx*  KPidp  unit.  Fxr  iiivti^e  niir  todtc  )i\ 
cftt^,  dPpiiiM  lo  I'litiimur,  Ion  tliiilp»ir»,  ddi  iiii  nioi»  uviint  Ip  hoIhIIvC  •I'flf , 
loiiti  li  riirtc!),  i]Mi*  |ii'ii(iiiiit  qiiiitrp  moil  le  inprrtiiL'  st'fil^v^  (-(iiiiiiiiiiiriiii'iit 
a\x^*  inidi,  piUip  "J'i  pt  24""  Volttpy.  t.  i.  p,  141.  Ohsprvinu  mlpt- 
wind"  oil  tlip  pffiTt  pKKliK'i'd  by  lliew  tlinnKPi  of  tpiniipiiidup,  he  ;idd«, 
"  CVnt  Piicnrf  pnr  i'pjrct  dp  lelte  liiifiiludp  dpii  oiRiinps,  qii' ft  Cliai!p>loii 
nil  IP  pliiiiit  dii  froid  qmiiid  le  tliPiiiioiiitliP  rxt  ft  10"  011  I'i**  iiii  kI  »'''i 
•t  qiip  I'uii  y  hidip,  iptoii  In  i-finurqiip  iK  liiaiicoiiri,  iiutnnt  do  hois  qii'ft 
I'biltdelphia  6u  Ic  mercure  toiubc  ()"  plui  biu.'*    Id.  p.  \b'l, 

33 


258 


APPENDIX. 


wood  for  the  fetching,  but  it  is  no  trifling  addition  to 
their  daily  toil,  that  they  must  cut  and  bring  it  in, 
and  have  their  night's  re»t  perpetually  broken,  by  the 
oblii!;alion  of  keeping  up  their  fires. 

To  talk  of  furniture  and  conveniences  in  such 
cabins  is  superfluous ;  a  few  gourds  and  wooden 
utensils  comprise  their  whole  stock  :  as  for  bedding, 
a  negro  is  supposed  to  require  none. 

While  [  was  sitting  in  tiie  publick  room  of  the 
tavern  at  Charlot'eville,  ihe  master  of  some  negroes 
was  making  arrangements  relative  to  their  hire  by 
another  man  for  the  season,*  when  one  of  them  request- 
ed, in  the  name  of  the  rest,  that  they  might  be  allow- 
ed the  usual  blanket  a-piece,  which  ihey  had  not 
received  in  their  former  service.  This  trifling  inci- 
dent informed  me  to  what  kind  of  accommodation 
an  equitable  master  considers  his  slave  entitled  ; — 
a  wretched  cabin  and  a  single  blanket.  For  their 
clothing,  with  the  exceptions  I  have  already  mention- 
ed, I  observed  it  almost  invariably  to  be  ragged  and 
miserable  in  the  extreme. 

The  description  of  their  food  is  well  known;  Rice 
and  Indian  meal,  with  a  little  dried  fish  ;  it  is,  in 
fact,  the  result  oi'a  calculation  of  the  cheapest  nutri- 
ment on  which  human  life  can  be  supported.  I  have 
heard,  indeed,  of  the  many  luxuries  the  negro  might 
enjoy  were  he  not  too  indolent  ;  of  the  poultry  and 
vegetables  he  might  raise  round  his  hut ;  but  his  un- 
conquerable idleness  masters  all  other  feelings.  1 
have  seldom  heard  an  argument  against  the  negroes 
that  was  not  double-edged.  If  they  are,  indeed,  so 
indolent  by  nature,  that  even  a  regard  for  their  own 
comforts  proves  insuffirient  to  rouse  them  to  exertion, 
with  what  colour  can  it  be  asserted  that  they  feel  it 
no  misfortune  to  be  compelled   to  daily  labour  for 

*  Wtirn  an  owner  hw  no  work  tor  til*  «!av«'s  ho  rommoiily 
letw  tlifim  out  for  tUe  year,  or  foasun,  to  aoy  oM  iu  waut  of 
hands. 


\L 


APPENDIX. 


259 


another?  Is  Ihe  sound  of  (he  whip  so  very  ftxhilaiat- 
ing  that  it  disjiels  at  once  indolence  and  sntleiing? 
But  1  admit  the  fact  of  their  indolence.  The  hiiinan 
mind  fits  itself  to  its  situation,  and  lo  flic  dctuarMh 
which  are  made  upon  itsj  energies.  Cut  oil' hope  for 
the  future,  and  freedom  lb;*  Ihe  present,  superadd  a 
due  pressure  of  hoilily  suffering,  ami  personal  degra- 
dation, and  you  have  a  slave,  who,  of  whiilever  zone, 
nation,  or  complexion,  will  be,  what  Ihe  jtoor  African 
is,  torpid,  debased,  and  lowered  beneath  tiie  standard 
of  humanity. 

To  inquire  if,  so  circumstanced,  he  is  happy, 
would  be  a  question  idly  ridicidous,  except  that  ihe 
affirmative  is  not  only  gravely  maintained,  but  con- 
stitutes an  esHential  moral  prop  of  the  whole  slave 
system.  Neither  they  who  affirm,  nor  they  who 
deny,  pretend  to  any  talisman  by  which  the  feelings 
of  the  heart  may  be  set  in  open  day  ;  but  if  general 
reasoning  be  resorted  to,  since  pain  and  pleasure  arc 
found  to  be  the  necessary  result  of  the  operation  of 
certain  accidents  on  the  human  constitution,  the 
aggregate  of  our  sensations  (that  is,  our  happiness  or 
misery)  ntust  be  allowed  to  depend  on  the  nundjer 
and  cotnbination  of  these  accidents.  '*  If  you  prick 
us,  do  we  not  bleed?  If  you  tickle  us,  do  we  not 
laugh?    If  you  poison  us,  do  we  not  die?" 

Stiould  there  be  any  unknowi.  principle  in  the 
negro's  constitution,  which  enables  him  to  convert 
natural  effects  into  iheir  contraries,  and  so  de»piso 
contingencies,  whether  of  good  or  evil,  he  may  pride 
himself  on  havinc  over-past  the  glory  both  of  saints 
and  sloicks  ;  but  the  fact  wouhi  no  tnore  justify  his 
oppressors,  than  did  the  stubborn  endurance  of 
Kpictetus,  the  barbarity  of  his  master,  who  broke  his 
leg.  It  would  be  loo  much,  first  lo  inflict  a  cruelly, 
and  then  to  take  credit  for  tlie  patience  wiih  which 
it  is  supported  ;  but  the  fact  itself  is,  in  this  case, 
more  than  doubtful.  That  to  a  certain  point  the  feel- 
ings of  the  slave  grow  callous  under  bondage,  may 
be  conceded  :    this  is  the  mercy  of  Nature  :   but  that 


i 


^1 


260 


APPENDIX. 


I 


\f 


'I 


If' 


they  are  wholly  extinguished  by  siitTering,  is  con- 
tradicteJ  by  facts  of  loo  palpable  evidence ;  one  of 
which  is,  that  it  is  no  uncommon  thing  for  negroes  to 
commit  suicide.  This  1  heard  from  a  gentleman  of 
Charleston ;  and  I  have  since  met  with  the  still  more 
unexceptionable  testimony  ot  a  friend  to  the  Slave 
Tiade. 

Dr.  Williamson,  in  his  "  Medical  and  Miscellane- 
ous Observations,  relative  to  the  West  India  Islands," 
observes,  "  Negroes  anticipate  that  they  will,  upon 
death  removing  them  froui  that  country,  be  restored 
to  their  native  land,  and  enjoy  their  friends'  society  in 
a  future  state.  The  ill-disposed  to  their  masters,  will 
sometimes  be  guilty  of  suicide;  or  by  a  resolute 
determination  resort  to  dirt-eating;  and  thence  pro* 
duce  disease,  and  at  length  death."  i.  93.  This  it 
the  kind  of  man  who,  should  he  ever  hear  of  the 
death  of  Cato,  would  call  it  the  result  of  *'an  ill  dis- 
position towards  his  master,  Cffisar." 

I  remember  to  have  once  heard  a  person  assert, 
from  his  own  experience,  that  a  cargo  of  Africans 
expressed  great  pleasure  on  finding  themselves  made 
slaves,  on  their  arrival  in  America.  A  further  expla- 
nation, however,  removed  the  seeming  improbability 
of  this  anecdote.  They  imagined  they  had  been 
purchased  for  the  purpose  of  being  eaten,  and  there- 
fore rejoiced  in  their  ignorance,  when  they  discovered, 
they  were  only  to  be  held  in  bondage. 

The  natural  inferiority  of  the  negro  race  has  been 
frequently  urged,  as  an  excuse  for  enslaving  them  ; 
as  if,  admitting  the  fact,  superiority  of  intellect  con- 
ferred a  right  of  oppression.  It  is  to  be  regretted, 
that  Mr.  Jefferson  has,  to  a  certain  extent,  lent  the 
sanction  of  his  name  to  this  opinion,  not  indeed  to 
justify  practices  which  no  man  more  sincerely  ab- 
hors;"^ but  as  the  result  of  deliberate  inquiry.     The 

♦  ••  I  tremble  for  my  country,"  nays  ho,  ••  when  I  reHect 
that  God  IS  Jiut ;  that  his  Juitiee  caanot  ileep  for  cvpr" 
Notei  on  Virginia,  p.  241. 


APPENDIX. 


261 


is  con- 
one  of 
frees  Id 
man  of 
ill  more 
B  Slave 

cellane- 
ilancJs," 
II,  upon 
restored 
>ciety  in 
era,  will 
resolute 
ice  pro* 
This  is 
r  of  the 
n  ill  dia- 

n  assert, 

Africans 

es  made 

r  expla- 

bability 

lad  been 

d  there- 

overed, 

las  been 
them ; 
set  con- 
sgretted, 
lent  the 
Ideed  to 
rely  ab- 
The 

I  reflect 
jr  ever." 


author  ot  "Letters  from  Virginia,"  discusses  his 
arguments  on  (his  subject,  »nd  I  think  proves  (hem 
to  be  ill-grounded,  if  I  um  not  mistaken  in  his  cha- 
acter,  the  philosopher  of  Munlicello  will  be  himself 
among  the  first  to  rejoice  in  his  own  defeat. 

I  forbear  entering  upon  a  question  already  decided 
by  the  irrefragable  evidence  of  facts. 

A  black  empire  has  arisen  amid  European  settle- 
ments. Do  the  ptiblick  proceedings,  and  details  of  its 
government  bespeak  an>  inteiioiity  to  those  of  white 
men?  The  state  papeiH  of  Hayti  are  to  be  distin- 
guished from  those  of  European  potent  iies,  only  by 
Buperiour  energy,  and  more  exalted  k<  niiuients ;  and 
while  the  manners  and  politics  of  Petion  eioulete 
those  of  his  republican  neighbours,  the  court  of  Chris- 
tophe  has  at  least  as  much  giiiiing  and  foolery,  as  ma- 
ny lords  and  ladies  of  the  bedchamber,  lords  in  wait- 
ing, stars  and  ribbons,  gilded  coachett,  and  laced  but- 
ton-holes, as  those  of  his  brother  potentates,  all  over 
the  world. 

I  shall  conclude,  by  an  account  of  the  trial  and 
execution  of  a  negro,  n  hich  took  place  during  my 
stay  at  Charleston. 

A  man  died  on  board  a  merchant  ship,  apparently 
in  consequence  of  poison  mixed  with  the  dinner  serv- 
ed up  to  the  ship^s  company.  The  cabin-boy  and 
cook  were  suspected,  because  they  were,  from 
their  occupations,  the  only  persons  on  board  who  did 
not  partake  of  the  mess,  the  effects  of  which  began 
to  appear  as  s^on  as  it  was  tasted.  As  the  offence 
was  committed  on  the  high  seas,  the  cook,  though  a 
negro,  became  entitled  to  the  benefit  of  a  jury,  and. 
with  the  cabin-boy,  was  put  on  his  trial.  The  boy, 
a  fine  looking  lad,  and  wholly  unabashed  by  his  situa- 
tion, was  readily  acquitted.  The  negro's  turn  was 
next.  He  was  a  man  of  low  stature,  ill-shapen,  and 
with  a  countenance  singularly  disgusting.  The  proofs 
against  him  were,  first,  that  he  was  cook  ;  so  who  else 
could  have  poisoned  the  mess  ?    It  was  indeed  over 


'  i. 


■•^ 


fi' 


4 


•26-Z 


APPENDIX. 


J 


m 


I 


■  f 


\ 


looked,  that  (woof  the  crew  had  absconded  since  the 
ship  came  into  port.  Secondly,  he  had  been  heard 
to  utter  cxpresriions  of  il!-hnnioiir  before  he  went  on 
board  :  that  part  of  the  evitience  nas  indeed  stip- 
prest,  which  went  to  explain  these  expressions.  The 
real  proof  however  was  written  in  his  skin,  and  in  the 
uncouth  lines  of  his  countenance.  He  was  found 
guilty. 

Mr.  Crafts,  junior,  a  gentleman  of  the  Charleston 
bar,  who  from  motives  of  humanity  had  undertaken 
his  defence,  did  not  think  a  man  ought  to  die  for  his 
colour,  albeit  it  was  the  custom  of  the  country  ;  and 
moved  in  consequence  foe  a  new  trial,  on  the  ground 
of  partial  and  insufficient  evidence  ;  but  the  Judge, 
who  had  urged  his  condemnation  with  a  vindictive 
earnestness,  intrenched  himself  in  forms,  and  found 
the  law  gave  him  no  power  in  favour  of  mercy,  lie 
then  forwarded  a  representation  of  the  case  to  the 
President,  through  one  of  the  senators  of  the  State  ; 
but  the  senator  ridiculed  the  idea  of  interesting  him- 
self for  the  life  of  a  negro,  who  was  therefore  lell  to 
liis  cell  and  the  hangman.  In  this  situation  he  did 
not  however  forsake  himself;  and  it  was  now,  when 
prejudice  and  persecution  had  spent  their  last  arrow 
on  him,  that  he  seemed  to  put  on  his  proper  nature, 
to  vindicate  not  only  his  innocence,  but  the  moral 
equality  of  his  race,  and  those  mental  energies  which 
thewhite  man's  pride  would  (\eny  to  the  shape  of  his 
head  and  the  woollincss  of  his  hair.  Maintaining  the 
most  undevialing  tranquillity,  he  conversed  with  ease 
and  cheerfulness,  whenever  his  benevolent  counsel, 
who  continued  his  kind  attentions  to  the  last,  visited 
his  cell.  1  was  present  on  one  of  these  occasions,  and 
observed  his  tone  and  manner,  neither  sullen  nor 
desperate,  but  quiet  and  resigned,  suggesting  what- 
ever occurred  to  him  on  the  circumstances  of  his  own 
case,  with  as  much  calmness  as  if  ho  had  been  uninte- 
rested in  the  event ;  yet  as  if  he  deemed  it  a  duly  to 
omit  none  of  the  means   placed  within  his  reacli  for 


II 


» 


APPENDIX. 


203 


vindicating  his  innocence.  He  had  constantly  atten- 
ded the  exhortations  of  a  Melliotlist  preacher,*  who 
for  conscience-sake,  visited  "those  who  were  in  pris- 
on ;"  and  having  thus  strengthened  his  spirit  with 
religion,  on  the  morning  of  his  execution,  breakfasted 
as  usual,  heartily ;  but  before  he  was  led  out,  he  re- 
quested permission  to  address  a  few  words  of  advice 
to  the  companions  of  his  captivity.  "  [  have  observ- 
ed much  in  them,  he  added,  which  requires  to  be 
amended,  and  the  advice  of  a  man  in  my  situatioii  may 
be  respected."  A  circle  was  accordingly  formed  iti 
his  cell,  in  the  midst  of  which  he  seated  himself,  and 
addressed  them  at  some  length,  with  a  sober  an<l  col- 
lected earnestness  of  manner,  on  the  profligacy  which 
he  had  noted  in  their  behaviour,  while  they  had  been 
fellow  prisoners  ;  recommending  to  thcin  the  rules  of 
conduct  prescribed  by  that  relijrion,  in  which  he  now 
found  his  support  and  consolation. 

Certainly,  if  we  regard  the  quality  and  condition 
of  the  actors  only,  there  is  an  inHuite  distance  be- 
twixt this  scene  and  the  parting  of  Socrates  with  his 
disciples ;  should  we  however  put  away  from  our 
thoughts,  such  differences  as  are  merely  accidental, 
and  seize  that  point  of  coincidence  which  is  most  inte- 
resting and  important;  namely,  the  triumph  of  mcr.tal 
energy  over  the  most  clinging  weaknesses  of  our 
nature;  the  negro  will  not  appear  wholly  nr)worthy  of 
a  comparison  with  the  sage  of  Athoiis.  The  .latter 
occupied  an  exalted  station  in  the  publick  eye ; 
though  persecuted  even  unlo  dialh  and  ignominy,  by 
a  band  of  triumphant  despots,  he  was  surrounded  in 
his  last  momctits  by  his  faithful  IVierMis  and  disciples, 
to  whose  talents  and   affection   he  might  safely    trust 

*  Tlie  clinrcli  l»uildrrs  oC  riinrlfston  nro  too  liappy  in  a  mo- 
Bopoly  of'<«alvatioii  to  atlonl  :i  si«lari('<l  rl<>rirymuii  to  tim  jail,  and 
the  salaried  clergymen  oi'thn  rity  caniiol  aflord  to  rontainiiiatH 
their  pioty,  by  entering,  unpaid,  tbc  abode  of  ciinie  and  uiis- 
fortunc. 


lii 


ff. 


264 


APPENDIX. 


r  '■  1  .. 


■'i 


>  \  1 


M     ^^ 


1 


the  vindication  of  his  fame,  and  the  unsullied  white- 
ness of  his  memory  :  he  knew  that  his  hour  of  glory 
must  come,  and  that  it  would  not  pass  away.  The 
negro  had  none  of  these  aids  ;  he  was  a  man  friend- 
less and  despised  ;  the  sympathies  of  society  were 
locked  up  against  him  ;  he  was  to  atone  for  an  odious 
crime,  by  an  ignominious  death ;  the  consciousness 
of  his  innocence  was  confined  to  his  own  bosom,  there 
probably  to  sleep  for  ever  :  to  the  rest  of  mankind  he 
was  a  wretched  criminal ;  an  object  perhaps  of  con- 
tempt and  detestation,  even  to  the  guilty  companions 
of  his  prison-house  ;  he  had  no  philosophy  with  which 
to  reason  down  those  natural  misgivings,  which  may 
be  supposed  to  precede  the  violent  dissolution  of  life 
and  body  :  he  could  make  no  appeal  to  posterity  to 
reverse  an  unjust  judgment. — To  have  borne  all  this 
patiently,  would  have  been  much :  he  bore  it  hero- 
ically. 

Having  ended  his  discourse,  he  was  conducted  to  the 
scaflfold,  where  having  calmly  surveyed  the  crowds 
collected  to  witness  his  fate,  he  requested  leave  to 
address  them.  Having  obtained  permission,  he  stept 
firmly  to  the  edge  of  the  scaffold,  and  having  com- 
manded silence  by  his  gestures,  "  you  are  come," 
said  he,  "  to  be  spectators  of  my  suflferings ;  you  are 
mistaken,  there  is  not  a  person  in  this  crowd  but  suf- 
fers more  than  I  do.  I  am  cheerful  and  contented, 
for  I  am  innocent."  He  then  observed,  that  he  truly 
forgave  all  those  who  had  taken  any  part  in  his  con- 
demnation, and  believed  that  they  had  acted  consci- 
entiously from  the  evidence  before  them ;  and  dis- 
claimed all  idea  of  imputing  guilt  to  any  one.  He 
then  turned  to  his  counsel,  who  with  feelings,  which 
honoured  humanity,  had  attended  him  to  the  scaffold  ; 
"  to  you,  Sir,"  said  he,  "  I  am  indeed  most  grateful,, 
had  you  been  my  son,  you  could  not  have  acted  by 
pie  more  kindly  ;"  and  observing  his  tears,  he  continu- 
ed ;  "  this.  Sir,  distresses  me  beyond  any  thing  I  have 
felt  yet     I  entreat  you  will  feel  no  distress  on  my 


ii . 


I 


APPENDIX. 


266 


white- 
'  glory 
.    The 

friend- 
y   were 
1  odious 
ouaneBS 
n,  th«rc 
kind  he 
of  con- 
panions 
ii  which 
ich  may 
a  of  life 
jrity   to 
i  all  this 
it  hero- 

ed  to  the 

crowds 

eave   to 

he  stept 

)g  com- 

coine," 

you  are 

but  suf- 

ntented, 

e  truly 

is  con- 

conaci- 

Ind  dis- 

le.     He 

which 

:aSb1d ; 

rrateful, 

;ted  by 

:ontinu- 

Ihave 

on  ray 


account,  I  am  happy  ;"  llien  praying  Heaven  to  re- 
ward hi^  beiievoieiioe,  he  took  leave  of  him,  and  sig- 
nilird  \\'\^  ieudiiiess  lo  die  ;  l)iit  requested  he  might 
be  excused  liom  ha\ing  his  eye«  and  hands  bandag- 
e«l ;  rtixhiiiii,  wjih  an  excusable  pride,  to  give  this 
fiiiiii  piMoi  «)t  ills  luishaken  (innness :  he,  however, 
sub.aitUfii  (ill  iliis  point,  to  the  representations  of  the 
shtii.;',  and  died  uitiiouithe  quivering  of  a  muscle. 
The  sjmrtitois,  who  had  been  drawn  together,  part- 
ly by  idle'  cm  iosity,  and  partly  by  a  detestation  of  his 
si.'pposo:!  crime,  retired  with  tears  for  his  fate,  and 
execrations  on  his  murderers. 


No.   II. 


OF  THE  AMERICAN  CHARACTER. 

I  ventured  at  an  early  period  of  my  travels  to  delineate 
some  features  of  the  American  charsictcr.  Whatever  I 
have  sfen  auice  has  tended  to  confirm  the  im|*resaion  then 
mule,  and  this  agreement  of  early  imitressiuns  with  sub- 
sequent experience  may  be  admitted  to  prove,  that  the 
national  character  is  strongly  pronounced  and  therefore 
readily  aMpreci>ited. 

NotwithHtandinsT  the  important  diQereuces  of  climate, 
habits  of  life,  and  religion,  there  exis^ts  throughout  the 
Uniim  a  feature  of  similitude  countervailing  all  these. 
Thi»  feature  is  government.  Political  institutions  have 
in  other  countries  a  feelile  and  secondary  inlluence  :  the 
duties  of  a  snliject  are,  for  the  most  part,  passive;  those 
of  the  American  citizen  are  active,  and  perpetually  act- 
ing; an<l  as  they  operate  equally  on  every  memlier  of 
society,  their  general  control  over  the  whole  community 
must,  in  most  instances,  exceed  that  of  any  partial  habit 
or  opinion. 

The  common  qualities  which  may  be  said  to  be  gene- 
rated by  this  influence,  are  intelligence,  or  a  quick  ner- 


1 


■^  *r- 


!  i    : 


266 


APFENUIX. 


ception  of  utility,  both  general  and  individual;  hence 
their  attachment  lu  freedom,  and  to  every  Bpt^ciea  of  im- 
provement both  publick  and  private  :  energy,  and  perse- 
verance ill  carrying  their  plans  into  eQect ;  qualities  in 
fact  deducible  from  the  former;  we  are  steady  in  pursuing, 
when  thoroughly  convinced  of  the  value  of  the  object: 
gravity  of  manner  and  deportment,  becausie  they  are  ha- 
bitu  dly  occupied  upon  matters  of  deep  interest :  tacitur- 
nity, whiih  is  the  otlspring  of  thought.  'J'hey  appear 
deticient  in  imagination  or  the  poetry  of  life,  because  all 
its  realities  are  at  their  disposal.  They  seem  to  have 
little  sympathy,  becduse  their  social  system  does  not  com- 
pel them  to  sutfer.  Oppression  engenders  pity  ;  disease 
and  death  require  only  resii^nation. 

But  beside  these  general  features,  which  may  be  con- 
sidered as  common  to  the  whole  mass  of  American  citi- 
zens, each  grand  division  of  the  Union  has  its  own  pecu- 
liar characterisiicks.  By  grand  divisions,  I  mean,  1. 
The  New  England  States ;  2.  The  Central ;  3.  The 
Southern ;  and  4.  The  States  to  the  west  of  the  Allegha- 


nies. 


*•» 


THE  NEW  ENGLAND  STATES. 


The  author  of  "  Letters  from  Virginia,"'  thus  pourtrays 
the  New  Engianders,  or  Yankees. 

"  My  young  friend  Manly  came  in  to  see  me  last  eve- 
ning. *■  You  are  a  traveller,"  said  be, '  and  make  it  a 
point  to  see  every  thing.  Pray  have  you  seen  a  Yankee 
yet  about  our  wharves?'  '  A  YankcCy^  said  I,  *  what  sort 
of  an  animal  is  that  ?'  '  A  very  strange  animal,  I  assure 
you,'  said  he,  with  a  smile.  '  It  has  the  body  of  a  man, 
but  not  the  soul.  However,  I  mean  one  of  our  New 
England  friends,  who  visit  us  in  small  crafts,  to  get  our 
money.  These  are  certainly  a  very  strange  race  of  peo* 
pie.  You  will  see  them  with  their  eel-skins  upon  their 
hair,  to  save  the  expense  of  barbers,  and  their  ear-rings 
in  their  ears,  to  improve  their  sight,  to  see  how  to  cheat 
you  belter,  1  suppose.  They  would  die  sooner  than  part 
with  oae  of  these  ornaments,  unless  you  pay  'em  well 
for  it.     At  the  same  time   they  live  u[)on  nothing.     A 


« 


APPENDIX. 


267 


;   hence 
i8  of  i  Di- 
ll  perse- 
ilities   in 
lursuiiig) 
!  objt^ct : 
y  ar*-  ha- 
:  tacitur- 
jr  H|i|)i'ar 
'Caust;  all 
to  have 
not  com- 
;  disease 

y  be  con- 
ican  citi- 
»wn  pecu- 
mean,  !• 
;  3.  The 
Allegha- 


pourtrays 

last  eve- 
Imake  it  a 
a  Yankee 
what  sort 
I  assure 
|of  a  man, 
our  New 
[o  get  our 
^ce  of  peo« 
ipon  their 
ear-rings 
to  cheat 
than  part 
'em  well 
•thing.     A 


rasher  of  pork  is  a  feast  for  them,  even  on  holidflys. 
Their  favourite  drink  is  nothing  liul  switchel,  or  mulagses 
and  water,  which  they  will  tell  you  is  belter  than  burgun- 
dy or  cliampiiign.  They  are  however  belter  tauglit  lliun 
fed,  and  make  the  tinesl  bold  sailurs  in  the  world,  'i  hey  can 
sail  to  the  iNorlh  Pule  and  bctck  h^;<i  i  in  an  egg  shell,  if  tiie 
ice  does  nut  itreak  it.  Indeed,  (bey  are  st.anien  by  birth,  and 
box  the  cumpass  in  their  cradles.  You  Uiiow  <jur  geutrrl 
laziness  unliis  us  lor  iho  drudgery  of  coniint  rce.  80  wr 
leave  it  ail  to  the  Yankees,  i  hese  cralimg  part  uf  (hem 
come  here  at  all  seasons  in  (heir  sloops  and  schooners, 
bringing  a  miscellaneuus  cargo,  of  ail  sorls  uf  notions,  not 
knet:iphysical  but  material,  such  as  cheese,  butter,  pota- 
toes, cranberries,  onions,  bee(s,  ccjfins — yuu  smde,  but  it 
is  A  f.icl,  lliat  undersianding  sumk.  ye.irs  ago.  (hat  the  yel- 
low lever  was  ragiiig  here  wilh  greai  violence,  some  of 
them  very  cimritutily  risked  their  uvvn  lives,  to  bring  us 
a  large  (pjantily  of  ready-made  cullins  of  all  sizes,  in  nests, 
one  iMitiui  another,  to  supply  customers  at  a  moment's 
Warning;  an  insult  which  we  have  hardly  forgiven  them 
}'e(.  V  ou  will  see  (hem  sailing  up  into  all  our  bays,  rivers, 
and  creeks,  wherever  (he  water  runs.  As  the  winter 
comes  on,  (bey  creep  into  some  little  harlionr,  where  they 
ant-hor  Iheir  vessels,  and  open  store  on  board,  retailing 
out  (heir  articles  of  every  kind,  to  the  poor  countrymen, 
who  come  to  buy.  Towards  the  spring,  they  sail  away 
with  a  load  of  plank  or  shingles,  which  they  often  gel 
very  dieup.  Indeed  the  whole  race  of  Yankee  seamen 
are  certainly  the  must  enterprising  people  in  the  world. 
They  are  in  all  quarters  of  the  glol)e  where  a  penny  is 
to  be  made.  In  sliurt,  they  love  money  a  little  bttter 
than  their  own  lives.  What  is  worst,  they  are  not  always 
very  nice  about  the  means  of  making  it ;  but  are  ready 
to  break  laws  like  cobwebs,  whenever  it  suits  their  inter- 
est. You  know  we  passed  an  emitargo  law  soinelime  ago, 
to  starve  the  English  out  of  house  and  home,  and  made 
all  our  coasting  captains  give  bond,  and  take  oath,  that 
they  would  not  sail  to  any  foreign  port  or  place  what- 
ever. Suddenly  there  began  to  (dow  a  set  of  the  most 
violent  gales  that  had  ever  been  known,  and  what  was 
lather  singular,  they  all  insisted  upon  blowing  towards  the 
West  Indies,  in  the  very  teeth  of  (he  law,  au  if  on  (Mirposc 
to  save  the  penalty  of  the  Irands.     It  looked  indeed,  to 


ii 


M 


v 


•> 


'J68 


API'RNDIX. 


1  1! 


II' 


■I 

f.i 


^oo(l  people,  as  if  Proviiicneo  ha«l  (ieterinineil  to  take 
tbose  islaixU  under  his  care,  aiitl  oe.id  tlii'iii  iDii|>|>lies  to 
save  lliem  rrom  r.tniiie,  in  spite  of  the  Aiiieric<in  (Joni!;r<:HS. 
Our  ruh'rs,  however,  who  liait  leariil  I'mtn  hialory  tliat 
these  Yankees  used  formerly  to  ilf.ii  willi  widhts,  hc^iti 
to  suspect  that  all  these  storiris  \.er«>  raised  hy  the  idack 
art,  or  at  least  were  in  inufaclureil  in  a  iiotan's  otVu-e.  f\' 
pressly  for  the  occasion,  and  tlu-tei'ore  r«M<)lved  In  lay 
them  at  once.  So  they  pasM< d  a  la.v  wliicli  declared  in 
■uhslance  that  no  kind  of  accident  or  dii<ir<»i)  Hhoidd  Ite 
given  in  evidence,  to  save  the  penalties  of  the  Itonds. 
This  act  poured  sweet  oil  upon  tlic  ocean  at  once,  and 
produced  a  profound  calm,  in  spite  of  witclns  and  nota- 
rieB,  and  the  winds  sttoh  went  on  to  l)|ow  from  all  pointR 
cf  the  compass  as  formerly,  any  tiling  in  th(>  act  entitled, 
an  Ad  laijiin(  an  anban^o,  &c.  to  the  contrary  notwith- 
iitandinu;/''     TiCiler  VI. 

This  is  confessedly  a  caricature,  hut  its  distorted  linea- 
ments may  help  us  to  some  of  the  true  features  of  the 
New  FiUj^landers  They  are  the  Scotchmen  of  the  Unit- 
ed Slates.  Inhal)itin<;  a  country  of  limited  extent,  and 
iucapahle  of  maintaining  its  «i\vn  populiition,  (heir  indus- 
try naturally  and  s*iccesfully  directed  itsilf  to  coinnier- 
cial  pursuits;  liul  as  even  thette  hecame(i;r  <dually  insulVicient 
to  maintain  their  tiro^^int;  numliers,  they  Ite^'Mi  at  an  early 
period  of  (heir  history  to  seek  for  settlements  amon^  their 
Dei^^hlKinrs  to  the  south  and  west.  .As  it  is  proliable  that 
those  who  first  iiri^aii  to  have  recourse  to  that  expedient, 
were  such  as  preferred  ihetxertion  of  their  wits,  to  en 
encrease  of  manual  toil,  reckless  adventurers  who  v. ere 
nvell-spareil  at  home,  they  were  far  from  iieintr  acceplalde 
guests.  The  ploddiuK  Duteh  and  (iermans  of  New  York 
and  Pennsylvania,  held  ihem  in  particular  aldiorrenci>, 
and,  as  far  as  they  could,  hunted  them  from  their  in-igh- 
bourlitMNi,  whenever  (hey  attempted  to  gain  a  fooling  in 
it.  "II  is  (says  the  author  of  Ihe  "Olive  Hranch,''*) 
xvilhin  (he  iriemory  of  (hose  over  whi>se  chins  no  raTior 
has  nver  mowed  a  harves(,  that  Yankee  and  sharper  were 

'*'  A  political  puhlirntioii.  Iiy  Matthew  Carey,  of  I'hiladeN 
phia.  <uppniied  tn  have  hud  a  greater  run  than  any  work  of  the 
Hort,  Kinee  raineS  Conirnoii  Sense  ;  sevtn  editioiiii  httviuj[;  been 
tailed  fur  in  thirteen  months. 


APPENDIX. 


tlOii 


to  take 
>l>lif»  to 

ury    lliat 

|u>  liliick 
itVuf.  t'X- 
il  In  lay 
•iiirfil  iit 
tioiiM  l>e 
ic   ItuiuU. 

IIICP,    Ullll 

Hill   notii- 

II 1 1    |iointii 

t  ciititlrd, 

iiutv^illi- 

letl   linea- 
p»'9  of  the 
the  Uiiit- 
tunt.  ami 
ii'ir  iiiilua- 
t   roiniiirr- 
iittiilViiifnt 
It  Hii  I'lirly 
noii^  thi'ir 
lialil«  tliut 
ex|i«(lii*nt, 
its,   to   en 
wlu)  v.ire 
iii't'eplatile 
Ni'W  York 
liliornMH't*, 
fir  iH'inh- 
I'ootiiiK   in 
trHiuh,"*) 
no  ray.or 

lirpiT  WtTC 

11  niilailol- 
Iwork  oC  llin 
liiiviii)!;  bucii 


regnrcled  os  nearly  synonymous,  and  this  was  not  among 
the  low,  und  Iht;  iiliui-ral,  the  liase,  and  the  vtil<;ar.  It 
|H'i'va<led  uli  ranks  of  society.  In  the  Midtlle  ami  South- 
ern stutcs,  traders  were  universally  very  much  on  their 
guard  against  VaiiUee  tricks,  when  dealin>;  witlt  thobo  of 
the  Eastern."     Fa{i;e  J 7  J. 

It  is  therefore  ii.  this  class  of  adventurers  and  emigrants 
we  are  to  look  lor  the  least  lavonialtlc  tiailh  ol  ,lie  New 
En^laitil  character  :  |iatieiii,  induHlrioub,  l'riiu,.il,  (nl«-r|itis- 
in^,  and  iiilellit!;ent,  it  cannot  he  deiiitd.  luti  lh.>l  (h«y  are 
rre(|uenily  knavish,  lll^'all,  and  avariciuua ;  as  men  who 
make  ^Hin  the  m.tttter  Sjoin^  ol  tin  ir  arlioiis. 

Here  we  perceive  the  force  and  in»'ani;iii  of  the  Vir;;i- 
nian  satire,  hut  here  too  its  application  inuttt  lie  rr»iri<'l- 
ed  :  even  emigration  senns  to  he  so  far  nu>ul<U'd  into  a 
system,  that  it  is  no  lon}:('r  the  resort  nurelx  of  roiiiics 
and  VH^ahonds,  hut  is  emUracid  as  an  eli(;ilite  nioiU*  of 
bettering  their  condition  i>y  the  yotin^  and  entt  rt  isln^  of 
all  cla^Hi's ;  it  is  a  whoWsoaie  drain  to  tin  e\uii«iance  of 
pO|Mj|atioii,  and  preserves  at  home  that  comparative  ei|Ua- 
lity.  on  which  |)uhlick  happiness  and  morals  so  enlirely 
depend.  The  New  Kn^landers  should  he  sei  n  at  home 
to  he  correctly  Judged  of:  as  far  us  testimony  pus.  it  is 
universally  in  their  favour.  ■'  1  h.-el  a  priile,  and  |  lensnre 
(siys  Mr.  Carey)  in  iloinu;  justice  to  the  y»'omanry  of  the 
Kaslern  Stales  :  they  will  not  siilVcr  in  a  compari^o)l  with 
the  same  class  of  men  in  any  part  of  the  worhl.  'J'hey  are 
upriu;ht,  soher,  orderly,  und  retrular ;  shrewd,  intellitieiit, 
and  welliidonned  ;  and  I  helieve  there  is  not  a  urealer  de- 
gree of  uenuine  native  nrlianity  amoii^  the  yeomanry  of 
any  country  under  the  canopy  ol  heaven "  "  Olive 
Hianch."  Va\ie  '27.'i.  This  is  the  character  my  own  »'X- 
perience  recoirnized  in  the  inhaliilanis  of  the  lieaiitiful 
(jentsee  country,  which  has  heen  enlirely  cleared  and 
settled  liy  New  r^nirlnmlers. 

it    is   imposHihle    to  ipiit    the   Kaalern    Slates   without, 
speaking  of  their  reli<,{ioii,  which  is  scarcely   more  their 
i    ghiry  ill  their  own  eyes,  than  Iheir  ^.^pprohrium  in  those  of 
their  nei|u;lihonrs. 

Pretensions  to  siiperiour  saiidily  are  always  received 
withjealousy,  especially  liy  a  people,  amon^  whom  devo- 
tion is  ill  repute.  The  coiilrasi  loo,  heiwixl  the  pious 
seeminy;,  and  stihslaniial  kiit«\ery  of  many  of  the  New  I'lii 


•270 


AFI'tNDIX. 


li 


I 


•        ^1' 


gland  adventurers,  nnturall}'  brings  tlnse  pretniBiona  into 
atill  i^reater  discredit,  and  extorts  a  wish,  that  tli(>y  liad 
either  a  lillle  more  morulily,  or  a  little  less  religion. 
There  is.  however,  no  rejison  to  iloiihl  that  in  the  bulk  of 
ihe  inhabitants,  reli<]i;ion  is  not  mcr*  ly  a  shew  and  pretext, 
hnt  a  beliif  and  practice  :  ini-n  lire  of  nuilual  hypocrisy, 
when  it  has  grown  too  common  l(»  impose. 

Calvinism,  ri^id,  uneompro'nisinu;  Ciilviiiism,  is  ili»^  in- 
heritimce  the  New  Knj^landrrs  have  received  Irom  their 
r^ref.ithers;  it  was  the  siiered  lire  their  ancestorit  boie  with 
them  into  exile,  nnd  vnIiicIi  has  continued  (o  burn  in  the 
hearts,  and  on  the  altars  of  their  descendants;  somelimos 
indeed  like  "  Ihe  rurnace  l)lue,'*  lo  which  Moloeb  treated 
his  worshippers,  but  of  lute  yetrs  willi  a  b>ss  filial,  though 
still  ancry,  liu;ht,  round  which  the  trumpets  and  tnnitreU 
of  the  priests  still  soinni  '*  in  dreiidfnl  harmony." 

Resides  the  inihdtrence  of  Hpirilu:d  prii.e,  (for  tpiriliiai 
pride  is  a  ln:'ury  of  the  highest  rale  to  those  v\hoare  too  fru- 
gal, or  too  conscientious  l«>  lolerHle  jir»»i<9er  enjoyments,)  the 
early  colonists  perceived  Ihe  Calv  inistick  system  of  church 
discipline  to  be  best  suited  lo  the  poverty  and  simjdiclty 
of  their  condition.     Calvinism   lias   therefore  grown   up 
with  republicanism,  and  from   an  accidental  connexion, 
claims  lo  he  of  Ihe  same  kindred  :  but  Ihe  vital  spirit  of 
Calvinism  is  intolenince,  and  intolerance  is  in  no  shape  a 
republican  principle.     It  is  true,  this  spirit  is,  lo  a  certain 
extent,  mitigated  by  the  partinl  influence  of  g(»od  sense. 
And  by  the  temper  of  the  age,  but  it  is  still  Ihe  same  in 
essence,  and  wails  but  a  favournble  opr>orlimily  lo  prove 
itself  the  snme  in  action.     I  do  ool,  h(»wever,  ascribe  in- 
tolerance to  Calvinism  as  a  peculiarity;  it   is  a  (pialily 
common  to  religious  sects  of  every  di-uomination,  when- 
ever failh  girds  on  the  sw.  id  td'  temporal  power.     'I'lm 
disposition  of  any  sect  to  persecute  others  seeiiH  in  exact 
proportion  to   itx   Hirength   and  credulity  ;    increasing   as 
these  inirrense  and  unite,  and  growing  mild  as  «hey  fade 
and  separate.     Thus  all  religioim  have  in  their  turns  iieen 
persecuting  and  tolerant,  bloody  anil  inofl'eiisive.      The 
Romr/>   Cathnjiek    religion,  Inrmb  ss  in  Canada,  and  in 
the    United    Stales,    opprest    in    Ireland,    bedridden    in 
France,  stilt  exhibits  the  vitality  of  its  poison  in  .Spain 
urd  Portugal.     The   Anglican  ehurch,  perseculing  even 
in  ill  cradle,  persecuting  at  its  flrst  establishment  in  Vir- 


if^ 


APPENDIX. 


'27  i 


ions  into 
llu'y  had 
rcli^iun. 
i^  hulk  o!" 

I  preti'xi, 
j'pocrisy, 

8  llie  in- 
oin  tlieir 
)ort'  with 
rn  in  tli« 
iinftiincs 

II  iTV.\U'i\ 

il,  (houfi;h 
tunlti'flH 

r  e|)iriliiul 
re  toclVii- 
i»'ht9.)lhc 
ui'i'hnri'li 
iim,tlit'ily 
[rrown   up 
itiincxion, 
Hpiril  oi 
<)  ahiipe  a 
H  ntrlHin 
(mI  sense , 
fiamr  in 
lo  prove 
gcrilnf  in- 
11  (piHlily 
I,  \vh«a- 
r.     Th.- 
ill  rxHCt 
iiHin<!   as 
h«  y  liule 
1  iH  h»'en 
..      Tho 
,  anil  in 
iililen   in 
ill  Spain 
in^  «'V«*n 
tu  Vir- 


ginia, ami  still  armed  with  exclusive  privileges  and  penal 
sliitutfs,  hiiif  giuwn  gradually  toU'ranl  fruin  a  decay  oftailh 
and  a  division  ui  power.  If  Calvinism  still  relaina  in 
America  the  iiari>hi'r  features  of  ita  Ibiuider  and  early  dU- 
eiples,  it  is  hf cause  (he  New  Eiiulunders  have  as  yet 
fountl  little  teiaure  lo  unsettle  their  lalier;  while  he- 
iievcra,  hy  eh.'vating  their  mortal  p'-.sBi<)n»  and  human 
weaknesses  to  the  throne  of  C(>d,  hiive  miide  a  cherished 
idol  of  tlieir  own  pri(!e,  and  authuri/e  intolerance  by  Di- 
vine »'x;im|de. 

It  i<)  (u  he  re<;relted.  that  this  fanatical  fipirit  is  not  con- 
lined  to  the  KHSlern  States  :  either,  for,  that  it  is  in  itself 
naturally  contagious,  <»r  ihal  it  has  hcen  carried  ahroad 
by  emigration,  it  is  now  spreading  rapidly  through  all 
parts  of  the  I'nior)  j  sometimes,  indeed,  in  a  nuinner,  which 
may  well  provoke  u  smile;*  but  more  Irtipicntly  with  a 

*  I  oner  plckrd  up  a  work  entilhd  *' Tlie  Cliristian's  Jour- 
nal," tvrittt  n  t>y  a  niinisier  of  liathliiinton.  the  aim  of  which 
was  to  extract  some  lelinioiis  leelinji  Irom  «!very  ohjeet  which 
niii{hl  meet  a  (  lirist;aii  eye,  aK  for  inslaiicu,  "  iSOw  the  hiitelier 
tihaves  the  net  k  of  yciud*  r  sow,  that  he  may  cive  her  the  kil- 
linjc  stub,  so  Saian  tickles  iiiid  lla'.teis  n^y  h  id  that  he  n>ay  nair- 
der  her. — Veialer  feed  a  fltx  k  o*'  j^eeso  ;  a  covey  of  diieks ;  lei 
nie  never  resMiible  the  tirst  iii  bring  hendy  and  high-minded  i 
nor  the  la<>t  ins|ieakie^'  uiihIi,  and  doing  little,  in  walking kIow, 
Kv. — Yonder  are  tvvi,  ki'n<i.  one  for  dryiiiK  eornor  malt,  another 
for  biiininir  briek'-  :  lliiiik.  my  soul,  how  Jehovah's  son  was  (tri- 
ed, roast* d.  uuti  hiirii*  amidst  hisKatliir's  indignation."— -The 
follotvinK  must,  I  iuiaiiine,  he  spoken  in  a  female  character ; 
*'llow  filthy  is  this  stable;  hut  stop  my  soul,  with  wonder 
stop  !  Wus  Jehovah  liorn  in  a  stable  lor  me  ?  liid  he  lie  in  a 
manner,  that  h«  n'i;;lit  |i<  for  ev<r  bt  rvvixt  my  hriasts,  and  I 
for  ever  in  the  in:l;inres  of  his  love  ?"—•' There  stands  the 
ranked  rnhbage  ;  ebiedy  vale;,!  le  lor  its  large  solid  hunrt ;  as 
my  lit  art  is  before  (xid,  so  iMich  am  I,  no  nore. — Hero  rome 
persons  in  i  ouches,  and  others  on  I  orses ;  lur  thou,  my  i>oul,  ride 
in  the  cliuriot  of  the  wood  of  I  t  banon,  and  en  the  white  hortr 
of  the  dospel  ~  Yonder  isuerovvil  ol  people,  who  attend  the 
neighloiii  mg  '|  a  to  di  ink  or  lathe  m  it.  Itlessed  JetUN,  mine- 
ral  v«ell,  |j>ri  at  spa.  let  us  daily  hatiiu  in  thy  blood.— Here  they 
make  glasK  :  ilw  or  gmal  is  stones,  sand,  kelp,  and  Nueh  briny 
materials;  !»' what  grinding,  meliing,  and  p«dishin}(  they  trans- 
form it  into  the  transparent  substance  !  I  Ini.k,  my  loiil.on  ll." 
Ireniendons  giindiiig  and  n>eliiii||;  uf  the  •  on  ol  (•(hI,  in  the  like- 
nt'S8  of  »intul  tlesh.  to  prepare  the  gluyiii  ><  .i  ni  I.i.n  ii^htiuuk' 


•v 


272 


AFI'KNUIX. 


ri<;iility  of  as[)ect,  befoie  wliicli  the  t;rauc9  mid  pleasuriit 
of  iU'e  wittier.  The  AinpricniiB  mv  hnbitiially  uerious  and 
eiU'iit,  even  heyoiirl  Encjiish  tacitiirnily.*  Tlit-ir  9|iiri(8  arc 
Bcliloin  (>t<>v;ilei|.  exce|it  Ity  llir  a|i|ilutaliun  of  some  extra- 
orilitiary  8(in:ul'iiil.  either  in  liie  shape  of  politicks  or  li- 
quor; they  an-  Ihiiti  excellenily  Qtted  to  become  vessels  ol" 
elef^tioii  and  r«'s;eneraliou  :  the  soiir  leaven  ferments 
tli'.)ii;;h  thnir  fnimes,  until  ail  the  kindlier  juices  curdle, 
and  h'ii>!»ii)es!«  becomes  a  deadly  sin. 

In  mmy  p.irts  of  the  country  dancinp;  is  held  to  be  an 
ahomiii'ilion,  which  even  the  youns;  of  l»oth  sexes  have 
been  intluced  by  the  penalty  of  eternal  damiiKtion  to  re- 
nounce :  perhaiis  this  is  no  i>;reat  sacrifice,  for  I  have 
sometimes  fincied,  that  thoii<^li  the  Americans  iire  great 
dancers  by  habit,  d'Miciii^  is  with  them  an  acquired  taste, 
which  will  not  lonu;  slatil  its  ^;i-ouiid  acaiiist  pleastirea 
more  C(>'nr"ni  il  to  their  imfural  tlisposliion ;  still  it  is  a 
m:'.tter  of  re!j;ref,  in  as  much  as  the  severity  of  their  cha- 
racter evidently  requires  rather  to  l>e  teinpere«l  by  social 
enjoyments,  than  stiifened  iiy  gloomy  creetir,  and  the  cant 
of  fanaticism. 

Havina:  testified  in  favour  of  the  morality  of  the  New 
Ens^landers,  it  is  natural  to  ini|uii'e  how  far  it  m«y  bo 
supposed  to  originate  in,  or  be  strengthened  liy  their  re- 
liiti.iUH  tenets,  '''bis,  however,  is  a  question  of  not  very 
easy  solution.     When  a  people  is   well  educated  and  iu- 

ness.  and  a  boUle  for  Ood  to  put  my  teari  In."  This  is  rertninly 
iiis^eninus  ;  "  t1:^re  i<<  plenty  orrlolli  well  dy<'H.  ami  I  hopi-  well 
male  ;  here  is  fine  linen,  strong  iiml  tlioroii<rhly  whitened  :  km\ 
mi'inoriaU  of  our  sin  ;  had  not  Ailam  nuule  ns  nuked  lo  our  sin, 
we  sli  )iiM  liiiK-  III)  U"ed  of  this  lo  rover  lis." 

The  tiillow'inii  IS  an  «>p<loini'  oC  the  pneioas  doi-triiie  of  eitic- 
tion  and  <>anetitieation  l»v  a;rari' :  "  Here  liiMli  oui-  wlio  rrrkons 
hiinsi<if  the  chief  nC  sinners,  anil  yet  Itohlly  rlaiins  .Irsiis  lor  liis 
own  •  nti  I  'irinlv  extu'els  salvation  liy  virtii"  of  tin-  eovenant  of 
jcr'icr  made  with  Him  ■  may  my  life,  and  m^  last  end,  he  like 
Tiii." 

*  I  have  lici-n  fce(|imally  aneisnd  diiriok'  my  jmirnfy,  with 
ohsprviiiix  twiilvo  or  lourtern  persons  in'Diii'.^  lo  lakt;  their 
mi>als,  as  thev  do  at  th«'  eoiintry  taverns,  and  orparaliii'.;  with- 
out littering  as  ininv  w  »rds  as  therr  were  dishei  on  the  table  ; 
yei  tii'v  tv«ri<  not  in  ;(uiiL>i'al  KtrAo^eri,  but  fellow-towiisinon. 
boarding  at  the  iiouiu. 


•••i, 


APPENDIX. 


273 


>a8ure» 
)us  and 
rits  are 
!  extra- 
(s  or  li- 

89ol8  of 

irinents 
curdle, 

0  be  an 
ea  have 
n  to  re- 

1  have 
TV  great 
«d  taste, 
ileasiires 

1  it  is  a 
leir  clia- 
ly  social 
the  caul 

[he  New 

inw  ho 

their  re- 

u)t  very 

I  and  in- 

crrtninly 
lope  well 
ihmI  :  xatl 
our  sill, 

«r  eltjc- 

|H  lor  hi< 
•nant  of 
l)(>  like 


•  y,  with 
Wo  their 
nn  with- 
|i«>  tahlii ; 
iwiisiuoti. 


dustrious,  when  property  is  so  far  equally  divided,  that 
the  extremes  of  wealth  uiiil  poverty  are  scarcely  known, 
their  morals  will  necesaarily  i)e  pure.  'J'he  iwu  main 
sources  of  vice  are  want  and  i<^uorance  :  let  a  man  know 
Avell  hia  own  interest,  and  remove  from  him  the  blandish- 
ments of  luxury  on  the  tnie  hand,  and  the  horrours  of 
poverty  on  the  other,  and  he  will  have  little  temptation 
to  work  his  own  ruin  Ity  iilleuess,  jtrotli^acy,  or  ilespair. 
Such  is  the  condition  of  the  New  Eiiml.iiid  States,  and 
under  such  circuni8l<inces,  it  is  prohalile  they  would 
continue  in  the  paths  of  morality,  because  they  are  in 
fact  in  the  straiti;ht  ro<id,  whatever  might  lie  the  form  of 
fheir  relitfious  worship.  C'alvinit>m  liowever,  lakes  cre- 
dit, as  mi|;hl  be  expected,  for  their  good  conduct,  and 
:laim8  the  merit  of  having  <:iven  birth  to  virtues,  which 
p'olmlily  it  has  only  not  lieen  alile  lo  destroy.  Time 
will  bring  alioul  a  *\vv,iy  of  fiiih,  and  time  will  also  in- 
troduce luxury  and  \^;lnt.  IUIi;iion  and  morality  wilt 
then  deciiy  l<>irf lln-r,  and  eollaieral  events  will  be  mis- 
taken for  cause  and  elftet. 

If  ihe  inlliienee  of  religion  can  in  any  way  be  fairly 
appreciated,  it  muni  be  liy  olmerving  the  character  and 
couduct  of  the  prieailaMxl,  in  whom,  as  u  body,  its  ei- 
sence  must  be  peeuliiirly  concenlnttd. 

At  the  period  of  Ihe  Frrneh  revolution,  and  for  some 
years  after,  ihe  N«'W  England  clergy,  were,  to  use  the 
words  of  Fisher  Ames,  '^powerful  auxiliaries  of  lawful 
authority/'  "Waleh  those  unuratiful  souls,"  preaches 
Dr.  Pari>4h  in  170!),  "wbt»  murmur  liliout  taxation,  and 
oppresHion,  the  hiirden^  of  ^ovrrntnent  and  religion. 
They  have  f»llow»»hi|»  with  «tiu'  i  nt  in  «'s« ;  they  are  trai- 
tors to  (io»l  and  < 'lirUiinuily."  "  As  eiii/euft"  (preaches 
the  Rev.  .leditliah  iM'tse,  at  the  name  period)  "  we  ought 
with  one  heart  to  eh  av(>  |o,  and  support  our  own  go- 
verninenl  ;  we  on;;lil  lo  repel  xsilb  indignation  every 
•tugs«Mtion,  and  nlanderonit  inHinnntion,  calculated  to 
weakt.'U  a  j'.ial  contidence  in  Hie  rectitude  of  the  inten- 
tions of  our  eoiiitlitiiled  iiiitlioriliea.  Our  government,  it 
itself  the  inoAl  peiT'Cl,  llir  bexl  lolministered,  the  least 
burdeiiHome,  ami  most  happyfying  to  the  people,  of  any 
on  earth." 

A  convention  of  conii:re«.[atioii;d  ministers  )»reB«'nted  au 
address  to  Frii'/ident  AdunH,  in  I7',)B,  in  which  we  read; 

3.j 


i 


j 

V 


i 


't 


f 


.Hm 


274 


APPENDIX. 


"  The  intimnte  connexion  between  our  civil  and  Chris- 
tiao  hlc88iti!2;8,  is  alone  sufficient  to  justify  the  derided 
part  which  the  clerp;y  of  America  have  uniformly  takea 
in  8Uji|)orting  the  constituted  authorities,  and  political  ia- 
terests  of  their  country." 

Thus  far  all  is  consistent,  and  as  it  should  be ;  "  Now 
mark  whiil  follows.''  During  the  late  war,  we  find  these 
lame  in.iividu,>ls,  whom  the  Federalists  had  represented* 
and  who  had  represented  themselves  to  be  the  stead- 
fast supporters  of  authority  and  order,  not  only  joining 
heart  and  voice  to  the  party  in  opposition  to  the  govern- 
ment, but  actually  heating  "  the  drum  Ecclesiaatick,"  to 
excite  open  rebellion.  "  if  you  do  not  wish  to  become 
the  slaves  of  those  who  own  slaves,  and  who  are  them- 
selves the  slaves  of  French  slaves,  you  must,  in  the  lan- 
guage of  the  day,  cut  the  connexion,"  &c.  Sermon  by 
the  Rev.  F.  Gardiner,   Boston,  preached   July  23,  1812. 

According  to  the  Kev.  Dr.  Osgood,  whoever  assisted 
the  government,  in  any  way,  to  carry  on  the  war,  was, 
*'ln  the  sight  of  God,  and  his  law,  a  murderer."  Ser- 
mon, June  27,  1812. 

"  ^Vere  not  the  authors  of  this  war  in  character  nearly 
akin  to  the  deists  and  atheists  of  France ;  were  they  not 
men  of  hardened  hearts,  seared  consciences,  reprobate 
minds,  and  desperate  wicke<lneas,  it  seems  utterly  in- 
conceivable that  they  should  have  made  the  declaration." 
Idem. 

*'  If  ut  the  present  moment  no  symptoms  of  civil  war 
appear,  they  certainly  will  soon;  unless  the  courage  of 
the  war  party  should  fail  them."     Idem. 

The    Reverend   Elijah   Parish    thus   exhorts  his   con- 
gregation.    '*  New  England,  if  invaded,  would  be  obliged 
to  defend  herself;  do  you  not  then  owe  it  to  your  child 
ren.  owe  it  to  your  God,  to  make  peace  for  yourselves  ?" 
Sermon,   April  7lh,  1814. 

"  The  full  vials  of  despotism  are  poured  on  your  heads, 
and  yet  you  may  challenge  the  ploilding  Israelite,  the 
■lipid  African,  the  feehle  Chinese,  the  drowsy  Turk,  or 
the  fro/.en  exile  of  Siberia,  to  equal  you  in  tame  sub- 
mission to  the  powers  that   be."     hlrm. 

"  How  will  the  supiiorlers  of  this  antichristivn  war- 
fare endure  their  senteiioe  ;  endure  the  fire  that  for  ever 
burnt;    the  worm   which  never  dies;   th<    liosannaii  of 


Jl 


and  Chris 
decided 
nly  takea 
ilitical  in- 

"Now 
tiiid  these 
ireeented, 
be  stead- 
y  joiuiog 
e  govern- 
stick,"  to 
o  become 
re  them- 

the  lau- 

rmoD  by 

23,  1812. 

assisted 
war,  was, 
ir."     Ser- 

er  nearlj 
they  not 
reprobate 
tterly  in- 
luration.*' 

[^ivil  war 
}urage  of 

his  con- 
e  obliged 
ur  child 
rselves  ?" 

ur  heads, 
i-lile,  the 
Turk,  or 
tme  sub- 

ivn  war- 

for  ever 

lannaii  of 


ArPKNDIX. 


275 


Heaven,  while  (he  smoke  of  (heir  torment  ascends  for 
ever  and  ever."     Idem. 

How  is   this  strange   contrariety   of  sentiments  to  be 
accounted  for  ?  By  a  love  of  peHCf,  and  a  devout  hatred 
to  war  in  the  alistract  ?  Ala? !  Ihcir  uwn  sermons  scarce- 
ly  militate  more  ai£Hinst  this  supitosition,  than  did  the 
bloody  cuirass  of  tlie  bisho(»   of  Beauvais.     "  Cursed  be 
he"  (,ireached  Ur.  Parish,  in  1790)  "that  kpepetb  hack 
his  sword  from  blood.     Let  him  that  hath  none,  sell  his 
coal   and  (my  one.     The  contest  is  desirable."     Shall  it 
be  said  they  yielded  in  (he  latter  instance  to  the  love 
of  fre»-d(»m  and   of  their  country  ?  That  they  supported 
the  ciiiistitution  against  tyranny  ?  But  of  what  tyranny 
could  they   complain  ?  The  war  might   be  impolilick,  it 
miglit  he  hostile   to  the  interests  of  New  England;  and 
if  such  was  the  case,  they  had,  as  citizens,  an  undoubt- 
ed  rit^ht   to  use  all  constitutional  methods  of  abridging 
its   duration,   and   exposing    its   folly;  Itut    it  had   been 
conslitutiouHlly  declared,   and  approved   by  a    congress 
freely  elected;    and    though    the    New    England    Stales 
mitfht  striiid  in  (he  shoes  of  a   mioori(y,  this  is  scarcely 
sutlicieiit  rcHHon   for  (he  ministers  of  reliifiun   (o   preach 
sedition  and  rcliellion.     We  are  compelled  therefitre  to 
seirch   for  the  (rue  m<)(ives  of  (heir  conduc(,  among  (husc 
passions  wliicli  do  le»s(  honoOr  to  human  nH(ure.     With- 
in the  peiiiid  of  this  change  in  their  sentiments,  (he  reins 
of  goverimient  li»id   passed    from  (he    hanils  of  the   Fe- 
dcr.'Wis'H    idto  those   of   the    Democrats,  in    whom    they 
beheld    llic     ennmiea    of   religion,    because    they    were 
friends  of  rtiler  (ion.     Tpon  similar  grounds,  they   hated 
Fiance,  wheiher  republican   or  imperial,  and  adhered  to 
England,  Itecaiise  slie  shared  and  gratitied  (heir   hatred. 
They    love»l    n<  iilie"   Entiland   nor  fedendism,  but    (heir 
own  power;  which   (hey  believed  to  be  connected  wl(h 
the    c  Mise   of   legilini.icy    and    intolerance   all    over  (he 
world. *^     Puwer   is    universally   (he    idol  of   (he    human 

♦  The  nevereiid  J.  IVInrse  oliserves,  in  liis  aooount  of  Con- 
iiertic  'it.  "  The  elerjry.  wlio  are  niiineroiis  and  as  a  ()ody  very 
rospeciahle,  have  hilh('ii<  preserved  a  kind  of  aristocralieal 
baliince,  in  the  very  demorrntical  RnvernnieKt  of  (he  state, 
whieli  has  happily  operated  as  a  ehrrk  upon  the  overbearing 
spirit  orrepiihlieiuiism."  lie  arid*.  "Tlieir  inlliienrn  is  on  the 
inereaite."  And  to  thin  he  atlribiiteii  the  reformation  of  man° 
nerh. 


It 

y 


276 


APPENDIX. 


heart ;  and  whenever  superstition  builds  temples,  (he  idol 
obliiins  a  favoured  niche  in  (he  sanctuary.  As  lung 
however  as  the  temporal  sword  is  withheld,  and  the  hie* 
rarchy  unendowed  with  the  plunder  of  credulity,  there 
vill  l)e  rtMind  in  a  free  country,  a  continual  elasticity  re- 
coilint;  at; linst.  and  throwing  olF spiritual  oppression.  It 
is  fur  this  reason  Unitarianism  is  m:iking  nearly  the 
same  progress  among  the  few  who  think  for  themselves, 
even  in  New  England,  that  fanaticism  is  among  the 
many  who  take  their  creed  upon  (rust.  "It  would  as- 
tonish, and  frighten  many  of  the  pious  people  in  New 
York  and  Philadelphia"  (I  quote  from  the  Olive  Branch, 
page  275)  "to  he  inlornied ;  hut  they  may  nevertheless 
rely  upon  the  information  ns  induldtahly  true,  that  a 
large  portion  of  the  clergy  in  the  town  of  Boston  are 
ahsolute  Unitarions,  and  scout  the  idea  of  the  divinity 
of  Jesus  Christ,  as  completely  and  explicitly  as  ever 
Dr.  Priestley  did;  and  let  me  add,  that  the  present 
Principal  of  Harvard  College,  was  known  to  he  an  Uni- 
tarian when  he  was  elected.  'I'his  fact  estahlishes  the 
very  great  extent  and  prevaleace  of  the  doctrine." 

THE  CENTRAL  STATES. 

There  is  no  portion  of  (he  Union  which  contains  more 
enlightened  individuals,  more  useful  institutions,  or  a 
B(ronger  s|tirit  of  literary  and  scientifsck  improvement, 
than  the  cities  of  New  York,  and  Philadelphia;  hut  there 
are  several  reasons  which  prevent  the  citizens  of  the 
Central  States  from  acquiring  a  general  character,  as 
strongly  marked  as  is  that  of  the  Eautern.  They  are 
composed  of  several  heterogeneous  Imdies.  The  ancient 
Dutch  race  still  exists,  with  many  of  its  primitive  hahils, 
towards  the  centre  of  the  state  of  New  York;  towartls 
the  north  and  west,  its  population  vonsists  chieHy  of  New 
£nglanders.  A  large  portion  of  Pennsylvania  is  inhahited 
by  Hermans,  who  are  still  unacquainted  with  the  Knglish 
language,  and  are  consequently  rather  a  social  circle  ex- 
isting within  the  State,  than  a  porticm  of  the  community 
amalgamating  with  it.  The  Quakers  too,  are  a  body 
whose  distinctive  habits  necessarily  operate  against  the 


i 


i 


APPENDIX. 


277 


formation  of  a  general  character,  because  lltcy  are  alroni;- 
er  tlian  any  general  caiifies  liy  whij-h  such  a  eh»ir«rtf-r  is 
en2;en(lere(l.  These  circuinalancea  an-  h:inllj-.  how<ver, 
felt  as  (Ii9adv;ir)tau;e8 ;  in  some  res|ifet8,  they  are  pruba- 
hly  iln«  eoijlriiry. 

As  cili'/eii8.  the  Dutch  and  (5erm:in8  are  peaceahle  and 
inthi9frioi!9,  thoujfh  not  very  e'lli^lilrneil ;  ihe  N»'w  Kn- 
j^lanilers  introtluce  ttie  hesi  qunlitie»  of  Ihrir  rharaelers: 
the  Quakers  are  inleHi};enl  <iu<l  humane.  A*lveiilijrer8 
from  all  counlries  constitute  the  most  uusouimI  piiii  of  the 
population,  ami  are  likely  to  give  a  8lrani:«'i  an  unfavoura- 
hle  opinion  ofihewhoU*;  in  other  re9(;Mi8,  the  Central 
States  seem  those  in  A^hieh  foreigners  ui  11  lind  the  lone 
of  manners,  and  spirit  of  society  must  aceonunoduting  and 
easy. 


THE  SOUTHERN  STATES. 

It  is  impossible  to  consider  the  character  of  the  south- 
ern states,  without  again  adverting  to  liie  pernicious  ef- 
feets  of  slavery. 

Land  cultivated  by  slaves  requires  a  considerable  capi- 
tal, and  will  therefore  he  divided  among  h  small  number 
of  proprietors.  Experienet*  too.  shews,  that  the  quantity 
of  labour  performed  by  slaves,  is  inurh  below  that  ol  an 
equal  number  of  free  cultivators;  the  numher  of  persons 
deriving  support  from  the  soil  will  consequently  be  lees  : 
but  the  loss  is  not  in  qua  <tity  only,  tlu'  quality  is  pro- 
portionably  deteriorated.  He  who  c«'nini.ii'.«!f  lite  sweat 
of  others,  will  lie  little  inclined  to  toil  lnnisrll  ;*  ilie  in- 
clination will  diminish  with  the  neemsiiy.  The  fact  is 
so  consonant  with  this  ri-mark.  that  in  the  Southern  stales. 
the  lisherieg,  and  all  branriitt*  of  aelivf  exertion,  fall  into 
the  himils  of  the  New  HiiL'lMnilei«  :  t<o  much  so,  that  the 
city  of  Ch.nleHiitii  ii^  supjliid  with  fish  ly  smacks  front 
Marblehead  auti  Boston.  iMiitiate  lU'Uhl  be  siqiposed  to 
have  partial  inlhienee  in  pro'liiem'.  linn  « ("Ted,  were  tiol 
auch  individualM  as  are  ciwnpellMl  l>y  tbe  nature  of  their 
occupations  to  rely    much  un  tlu  ii  uv.n  rllorls,  found  no 

*  "Of  the  proprietors  of  slaves,  a  very  small  propnrtinii  in 
dead  are  over  soon  to  lalxtiir."     Jvjfenon's  Nittet,  p.  2JI. 


I 


I        WH 


278 


APPENDIX. 


wise  inreriour  in  attainments  and  application  to  the  same 
description  of  persons  in  (he  more  tem|>crute  portion?  of 
the  Union.  Nay,  have  not  almost  all  the  siillricat  re- 
gions of  (he  globe  been  alterout^^'  the  seats  of  sloth  and 
enterprise  ? 

The  sr.me  dietrihution  of  property  which  renders  la- 
bour unnecessary  to  its  |iroprietor,  is  no  leas  fatal  to  his 
mental  improvement.  Experience  informs  us,  that  means 
and  leisure  are  less  powerful  excitemenis  to  study  than 
the  spur  of  necessity,  anil  hope  of  prolit.  Information 
will  be  first  sought,  that  it  may  he  useful,  it  will  after- 
wards be  [torused  for  the  pleasure  of  the  Hcquisition  only. 
The  plaittor  has  therefore  been  ever  reckoned  among  the 
least  enlightened  members  of  society  ;  but  says  a  pro- 
Terb,  Those  whom  the  devil  (inds  idle,  he  sets  about  his 
own  work.  Dissipdlion  must  be  always  the  resource  of 
(he  unoccupied  and  iil-instrucled. 

If  the  political  effects  of  slavery  are  pernicious  to  the 
citizen,  its  moral  effects  are  still  more  fntal  to  the  man. 
"  There  must  doubtless,"  (says  Mr.  .IilVerson,)  "  be  an 
unhappy  influence  on  the  in  inners  of  the  people,  pro- 
duced by  the  existence  of  slavery  among  us.  The  whole 
commerce  between  master  and  slave,  is  a  perpetual  ex- 
ercise of  the  most  boisterous  passions  ;  the  most  unremit- 
ting despotism  on  (he  one  part,  and  degrading  submis- 
sions on  (he  o(her.  Our  children  see  this,  and  learn  to 
imitate  it,  for  man  is  aii  imitative  animal.  The  parent 
storms,  the  child  looks  on,  catches  the  lineaixients  of 
wrath,  puts  on  the  same  airs  in  the  circle  of  smaller 
slaves,  give  loose  to  the  worst  of  passions,  and  thus 
nursed,  educated,  and  daily  exercised  in  tvranny,  can- 
not but  be  stamped  by  it  with  odious  iieculiarities.  The 
man  must  be  a  prodigy  who  can  retain  his  morals  and 
manners  undepraved  by  such  circumstances."  Notes 
p.  241. 

We  know  the  time  of  prodigies  is  past,  and  that  na- 
tural effects  will  follow  their  causes.  The  manners  of 
the  lower  classes  in  the  Southern  states  are  brutal  and 
depraved.*     Those  of  the  upper,  corrupted  by  power,  are 

*  The  stage  drivers,  for  instance,  are  more  inhuman,  and 
much  infcrioiir  in  derency  of  behaviour  to  the  negroes,  whp 
are  sometimes  employed   in  the  same   capacity  :  so  that  it 


APPENDIX. 


279 


frequent ly  arrogant  and  assuming  :  unused  to  restraint  or 
contradiction  ot  any  iiiud,  they  are  necessarily  quarrel- 
some ;  and  in  their  quarrels,  the  native  t'erucity  of  their 
hearts  hrenks  out.  Uuelling  is  not  only  in  general  vogue 
and  fashion,  but  is  |)racti8f(4  with  circumstances  of  pe- 
culiar vindictiveness.  It  is  usual  when  two  persons 
have  agreed  to  fight,  for  each  to  go  out  regularly  ami 
practise  at  a  mark,  in  the  presence  of  their  friends,  during 
the  interval  which  precedes  their  meeting;  one  of  the 
parties  therefore  commonly  falls. 

Did  the  whole  of  the  altove  causes  operate  ^vith  undi- 
minished influence,  the  result  would  lie  horrible;  but  there 
are  several  circumstances  continually  working  in  mitiga- 
tion of  those  evils. 

The  American  form  of  government,  as  powerfully  im- 
pels to  energy,  as  slave  proprietorship  does  to  indolence. 
The  example  uf  neighbouring  states  continually  urges  on 
improvements.     The   learned  and  mercantile  professions 
have  little  direct  interest  in  the  slave  system,  and  are 
therefore  less  infected  by  its  contagion.     1  have  already 
noted   a   distinction   betwixt   the   farmers   of  the   upper 
country,  and  the  planters  of  the  lower.     There  is  thus  a 
considerable  portion  of  comparatively   untainted   popula- 
tion.    Even   among   the  planters,   there   are  individuals, 
Tvho,  by  a  judicious  UbC  of  the  advantages  of  leisure  and 
fortune,   by   travel,  and  extensive   intercourse   with   the 
world,  have  acquired  manners  more   politthed,  and  senti- 
ments more  refined,  than  are  the  common  lot  of  their  fel- 
low-citizens in  other  portions  of   the   Union  :  but   these 
are  rare  exceptions,  stars  in  darkness,  which  shine,  more 
sensibly  to  mark  the  deep  shadows  of  the  ojiposite  ex- 
treme, where  the  contrast  is  strong,  perpetual,  and  dis- 
gusting. 


♦'>.! 


THE  WESTERN  STATES 

The  inhabitants  of  Kentucky  are,  or  at  least  were  (foi 
in  America  the  wheel  of  society   turns  so  swiftly,  that 

seems  not  improbable  that  tlio  efferts  of  slavery,  upon  the 
lower  orderr:  at  least,  are  ffiur«  debasiu]{  to  the  governing  claiiK. 
than  to  the  governed. 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
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APPENDIX. 


1 


K       '    <     :i 


U' 


20, years  work  the  changes  of  a  century)  considered  as 
the  irishmen  of  the  United  States :  that  is  to  suy,  a  simi- 
lar state  of  society  had  produced,  in  a  certain  degree, 
similar  manners. 

The  Keutuckians  inhabited  a  fertile  country,  with  few 
large  towns  or  mmiifHCtoriea;  they  had  therefore  both 
leisure  and  abundance,  as  far  as  the  necessaries  of  life 
went:  they  were  consequently  disposed  to  conviviality 
and  social  intercourse;  and  as  the  arts  were  little  under- 
stood, and  the  refinements  of  literature  and  science  un- 
known, their  board  was  seldom  spread  by  the  graces,  or 
their  festivity  restricted  within  the  boundaries  of  temper- 
ance. They  were  in  fact  hospitat)le  and  open-hearted, 
but  boisterous,  and  addicted  to  those  vulgar,  and  even 
brutal  amusements,  which  were  once  common  in  Vir- 
ginia, and  have  been  common  in  all  countries,  as  long  as 
man  knew  no  pleasure  more  retined,  than  the  alternate 
excitement  and  dissipation  of  his  animal  spirits,  by  feats 
of  physical  strength  and  coarse  debaucher3\ 

To  a  certain  extent  therefore,  there  were  points  of 
similitude  betwixt  the  Kentucky  rarmnrs  and  the  Irish 
gentry,  but  there  was  always  this  point  of  distinction  ;  in 
Kentucky,  leisure  and  abundance  bebms^ed  to  every  man 
who  would  work  for  them;  in  Ireland,  they  appertained 
only  to  the  few  for  wh(»m  I  he  many  worke<l. 

Kentucky  has  of  late  years  become  a  manufacturing 
state:  towns  have  grown  up  rapidly,  and  the  luxuries  of 
social  intercourse  are  scarcely  less  understood  in  Lexing- 
ton than  in  New  York  :  miinners  must  therefore  have  un- 
dergone a  considerable  change,  and  those  peculiarities 
of  character,  which  were  once  supposed  to  mark  Keu- 
tuckians, must  probably  now  be  sought  among  the  more 
recent  inhabitants  of  Tennessee  or  Indiana.  It  may  safe- 
ly be  affirmed,  that  between  the  Alleghanies  and  the  Mis- 
souri, every  degree  of  civili/.ation  is  to  be  met  with 
which  shades  the  character  of  social  man,  from  a  state 
of  considerable  luxury  and  refinement,  until  on  the  very 
varge  of  the  pale,  he  almost  ceases  to  be  gregarious, 
and  attaches  himself  to  a  life  of  savage  independence. 
There  are  settlers,  if  they  may  be  so  called,  who  are 
continually  pushing  forward,  abandoniug  their  recent  im- 
provements as  fast  as  neighbourhood  overtakes  them,  and 
pluDgiug  deeper  into  primeval  wildernesses.     Mr.  Boon. 


APPENDIX. 


281 


idered  as 
y,  a  sirai- 
in  degree, 

with  few 
fore  both 
es  of  life 
nviviality 
tie  under- 
jience  un- 
graces,  or 
of  temper- 
!n-hearted, 

and  even 
>n  in  Vir- 
as  long  as 
J  alternate 
s,  by  feats 

points  of 

the   Irish 

inction ;  in 

every  man 

ippertuiued 

lufacturing 
Uixiirirs  of 
n  Lexing- 
e  have  un- 
pciiliiirities 
lark   Ken 
the   more 
may  safe- 
d  the  Mis- 
met   with 
Lm  a  state 
ji   the  very 
[gregarious, 
pendence. 
,  wlio  are 
recent  ini* 
them,  and 
r.  Boon. 


if  a  person  of  this  description  ;  he  explored  Kentucky  in 
1760;  since  this  period,  he  has  constantly  formed  the 
advanced  patrole  of  civilization,  until  he  is  now,  I  be- 
lieve, on  the  Missouri.  It  is  a  maxim  with  him,  that  a 
country  is  too  thickly  peopled,  as  suon  as  he  cannot  fall 
a  tree  from  the  forest  into  his  own  inclosure.        " 

It  seems  a  very  simple  process  to  go  and  settle  in  a  fer- 
tile country,  where  land  may  be  procured  for  two  dollars 
the  acre;  a  glance,  however,  over  an  uncleared,  and  hea- 
vily-timitered  tract,  is  sutficient,  not  only  to  correct  our 
notions  of  the  facility  of  the  enterprize,  but  to  render  it 
astonishing,  that  men  are  found  sullicienlly  venturesome 
and  enduring  to  undertake  the  task.  The  stoutest  la- 
bourer might  well  shrink  at  the  prospect,  hut  hope  and 
freedom  brace  t)oth  soul  and  sinews.  The  manner  in 
which  the  young  adventurer  sets  out  upon  his  piltrnmage, 
has  been  already  d<^8crii)ed  in  livelier  colours  I  ban  mine. 
There  is  someiliing  almost  poetical  in  the  contidence  and 
hardihood  of  such  undertakinirs,  and  1  have  heard  a  kind  of 
hailadsong,   which   turns   upon    them,   with   some   such 

burthen  as  this  :  ** 

•  '■•«•♦,..  ,,ji 

'•  'Tls  you  can  reap  and  mow,  love,      •  . '  ' 

V^    11  And  I  i-aii  Kpiu,  and  si<w,  •  '    - 

And  we'll  sot t if*  on  the  bunks  of  « 

The  pleasant  Ohio."  ^ 

How  these  adventurers  have  thriven  is  well  known ;  Ken- 
tucky, first  settled  in  1773,  in  1 702  had  a  po|iulalion  esti- 
mated at  100.000,  and  by  the  census  of  1810.  at  400  511. 
Morse  reckons  the  whole  population  of  the  Western  terri- 
tory in  1700,  at  6000.  According  to  the  census  of  1810, 
Ohio  alone  contained  227,843.  Tennessee  261,227  ;  and 
the  other  territories  about  1 18,000  ;  making  an  increase  of 
loo  fold  in  20  years.  This  rale  is  prodigious,  even  when 
compared  with  the  most  thriving  of  the  Atlantick  States. 
The  population  of  New  York,  was  in  ^,,, 

1750         -         -  97,000 

.  1786  -         -  230.000  »         ,,.♦  *      ' 

1805  .         -  580,000  i„  A. 

,  •  1810  -         -  000,000 

"Averaging  an  increase  of  about  twenty-four  fold  in  forty 
years.     In  must  of  the  New  England  States,  the  increase 

:i6 


t 


i 


II 


A 


I 


282 


APPENDIX. 


«'•'■?» 


is  extremely  small :  so  that  they  seem  to  have  nearly  at- 
tained tlie  amount  uf  pupuiatiun  their  soil  will  support 
with  ease  and  comfort.     Couneclicu;  contained  in 

1756        •  130.611    inhabitants 

1774         -         .         108,000 

'     ,       '      1782         -         -         203,000 

,'  1805         -         -         252,000 

1810  -  -  262^000 
It  may  be  supposed  that  with  such  an  extraordinary 
growth,  the  demand  for  labour  through  the  Western 
Slates  is  very  great :  even  in  Upper  Canada  the  want  of 
mechanit'ks  and  artiflcers  is  severely  Telt.  The  cause  is 
easily  assigned.  Whenever  great  facilities  exist  for  be- 
coming a  land-owner,  men  will  unwillingly  submit  to  the 
drudgery  of  menial  or  mechanical  occupations,  or  at  least 
submit  to  them  so  lon^  only,  as  will  atford  them  the 
means  of  taking  up  what  they  will  consider  a  preferable 
mode  of  life.  Wages  are  therefore  very  high  through  the 
whole  of  the  continent ;  in  the  new  States  from  the  natu- 
ral scarcity  of  labour,  in  the  old,  from  the  competition  of 
the  new.  I  saw  the  following  terms  offered  to  journey- 
men tailors  in  a  Knoxville  newspaper :  three  dollars  for 
making  a  coat ;  one  for  each  job ;  their  board  and  lodging 
found  them,  and  certain  employment  for  one  year.  Knox- 
ville is  the  capital  of  East  Tennessee. 

The  views  and  feelings  of  the  Western  States  are  natu- 
rally influenced  by  their  local  position.  All  their  Streams, 
the  Ohio,  the  Wabash,  the  Miami,  the  Kanhawa,  and  the 
Monongahela,  discharge  themselves  finally  into  the  Mis- 
sissippi ;  the  Missouri  coming  from  the  opposite  direction, 
finds  the  same  vent.  The  inhalntanis  look  therefore  to 
the  gulph  of  Mexico,  as  the  natural  outlet  of  their  com- 
merce; to  them  the  Allantick  States  are  the  back  coun- 
try. What  changes  this  feeling  may  eventually  work  in 
the  Union,  it  is  now  useless  to  inquire,  but  it  seems  evi- 
dent, that  at  no  distant  date,  the  Western  Stales  will 
have  far  outgrown  their  neighbours  in  power  and  popula- 
tion. 

Already,  the  anticipating  glance  of  ambition  surveys  an 
ample  field;  the  whole  continent  is  parcelled  out.     Be- 
sides Indiana,  the  Mississippi,  the  Illinois,  the  Michigan,^ 
and  the   North-west   territories,  equal  in  extent  to  four 
Englands,  the  Missouri  territory  is  thus  described  in  the 


APPENDIX. 


283 


early  at- 
Bupport 

[1 

IIDtS  , 


lordinary 
Western 
B  want  of 

>  cause  is 
it  for  be- 
nit  to  the 
)r  al  least 
them  the 
ireferable 
rough  the 

the  natu- 
)rtitioa  of 
»  journey- 
dollars  for 
id  lodging 
•.     Knox- 

)  are  natu- 
ir  streams, 
a,  and  the 

>  the  Mis- 
direction, 
erefore  to 
their  com- 
tack  coun- 
y  work  in 
jeems  evi- 
itates  will 
nd  popula- 

surveys  an 

out.     Be- 

Michigan,, 

nt  to  four 

bed  in  the 


American  "  Traveller's  Directory  :"  "  Boundaries — On 
the  north,  unsettled  country  ;  south,  Louisiana,  and  Gulf 
of  Mexico ;  east,  Upper  Canada,  Northwest  territory^  Illi- 
nois territory,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Missi38i|)pi  territory, 
and  Louisiana :  west,  the  Paciflck  Ocean,  and  south-west 
the  Spanish  internal  provinces.  Extent  from  north  to 
south,  about  1380  miles;  from  east  to  west,  about  1680 
miles.  Area,  about  1,580,000  square  miles."  The  popu- 
lation is  as  yet  something  inadequate,  iM'ing  only  21,000. 
It  is  curious  to  observe,  for  how  much,  or  rather  for  how 
little,  the  rights  of  the  real  proprietors  of  the  soil,  the  In- 
dians, count  in  these  convenient  distributions.  They  are 
in  fact  considered  as  a  race  of  wihl  animals,  not  less  inju- 
rious to  settlement  and  cultivation  than  wolves  and 
bears;  but  too  strong,  or  too  cunning  to  be  exterminated 
exactly  in  the  same  way.  Their  final  extinction,  how- 
ever, is  not  less  certain.  Then  will  the  Queen  of  the 
Pacifick  tiscend  the  throne  of  undisputed  empire,  *'  €t  vie- 
trix  dominabitur  OrbiJ'^ 


No.    III. 


■*^ 


OP  THE   AMERICAN  GOVERNMENT. 

'•  The  United  States,  despairing  of  producing,  good  mnnners,  or  a  regard 
for  private  duties,  by  iuftisini;  into  covernincnl  tlie  stront^cst  oolicitatioiix  *o 
disregard  publick  duties  ;  endeavour  to  serurr  tin*  nmniiity  of  eovprnniput, 
as  the  hcsi  security  against  the  licentioiMiess  of  tiie  people.  They  forbear 
to  excite  ambition  an<l  avarice  by  hereditary  orders,  or  fppnrnte  interests; 
and  provide  against  both,  by  election,  reHponsihilily,  and  division  of  power. 
They  exchidt  the  vicious  moral  (|u»lities,  fear,  and  superstition,  as  elements 
of  goverinnent ;  and  feiect  for  ilo  basis,  the  most  perfect  moral  quality  of 
human  nature."— //7»  Inquiry  intn  Ihe  Prinriphs  nnd  I'ulini  (if  the  (lorem- 
VMntqftht  United  Slitles,  by  John  Taylor,  f'irginiu* 


*  I  am  mnch  inclebted  to  this  able  expositor  of  nrpublican 
prinriples,  for  the  information  he  has  afi()r(l(>(l  iro  on  the  Ame- 
riran  Ciovernmrnt ;  were  his  manner  equal  to  his  matter,  his 
**  Inquiry"  could  not  but  produro  a  sensihlc  efl«>rt  on  the 
!icieiice  of  politicks ;  an  it  is,  the  strength  and  originality  of  hU 
intellect  amply  reward  the  labour  of  a  perusal. 


I 


f; 


If  J  fi 


I' 


m 


•-#■ 


284 


APPENDIX. 


INTRODUCTION.  '-; 

X  HE  observations  I  Hm  about  to  offer  on  the  American 
Governnaent  refer  less  to  its  forqas  and  details,  which  are 
sufficiently  understotMl,  than  to  its  principles,  and  to  the 
essential  points  of  difference  betwixt  it  and  all  existing 
governments.  In  considering  these,  I  shall  endeavour  to 
follow  the  route  traced  by  the  Americans  themselves,  by 
beginning  with  general  principles,  and  thence  deducing 
the  constituent  elements  of  their  polity  ;  preserving 
throughout,  the  line  of  argument  adopted  by  what  is 
termed  the  Democratick  party,  in  opposition  to  the  Fe- 
deralists,  some  of  whom  hold  principles  widely  different. 


SECTION  I. 


I'.  ^  !  /         \l 


,\..  J 


OP  NATIONAL  SOVEREIGNTY. 

Individual  advantage  is  thb  object  fpr  which  men 
unite  in  society,  and  sacrifice  a  portion  of  individual 
liberty.  Government  is  compounded  of  the  portions  so 
sacrificed. 

The  purport  of  its  creation  is  to  guarantee  the  aggre- 
gate of  these  individual  advantages  which  constitute  the 
publicli  good.  But  although  almost  all  governments  con- 
fess this  end  of  their  being,  yet  having  been  founded,  not 
upon  a  recognition  of  the  principle,  but  upon  the  usurpa- 
tion of  some,  and  the  weakness  of  others,  the  publick  good 
has  been  almost  invariably  resolved  into  the  good  of  one 
man,  denominated  a  king  or  emperour,  or  of  a  few  deno- 
minated nobles,  and  privileged  classes.  The  Americans 
had  the  singular  advantage  of  being  called  u|>on  to  build 
up  a  frame  of  government,  *'  ab  initio,''^  so  that  no  reason 
could  exist  for  legitimating  an  abuse,  merely  because  it 
was  established.  They  were  called  upon  loo,  ut  a  period, 
when  men's  minds  were  thoroughly  imbued  both  with  a 
knowledge  of  the  principle,  and  with  a  deep  sense  of  the 
calamities  which  a  neglect  of  it  had  inflicted  on  the  world. 
They  therefore  considered  it  as  the  key-stone  and  cement 
of  their  social  edifice. 


♦•*  # 


APPENDIX. 


285 


Tierican 
ich  arc 
I  to  the 
sxisting 
vour  to 
veB,  by 
educing 
•serving 
wliat  it 
tlie  Fe- 
lifferent. 


icl)  men 
idiv'idual 
rtioDB  so 

• 

aggre- 
itute  the 
nts  con- 
|ded,  not 
usurpa- 
|ick  good 
A  of  one 
[w  deno- 
jericans 
to  build 

reason 

ause  it 

period, 

with  a 
|e  of  the 

world.   • 

cement    V 


The  end  and  purpose  ol  government  having  thus  been 
agreed  upon,  the  question  naturally  ;<rose  of  how  this  end 
was  to  be  obtained/  Here  a  previous  consideration  be- 
came necessary ;  namely,  u|)(>n  whut  basis  governments 
had  been  and  should  he  erteled. 

All  government?  evidently  dt^pc-nded  upon  power,  and 
all  pretended  a  rijjht  to  the  power  they  exercisetl.  The 
origin  however  of  this  right  w.is  variously  assi  rted,  and 
derived  from  a  variety  ol  souroes;  $>ome1im('s  it  was 
heaven-born;  sometimes  an  inlteritance;  now  a  prescrip- 
tion; now  a  contract  betwixt  the  government  and  the 
people. 

As  the  American  constitution  acknowledges  none  of 
these  derivations,  it  is  necessary  to  give  each  of  them  a 
brief  consideration,  both  to  mark  this  point  of  distinction, 
betwixt  it  and  other  governments,  and  also  to  be  able 
more  safely  to  deli?rmine,  to  which  party  most  essentially 
belongs  lh<-  invaluable  attribute  of  political  Justice. 

ist. — The  plea  of  some  men  to  a  Divine  right  to  go- 
vern others,  has  antiquity  on  its  side :  it  seems  to  have 
been  successfully  resorted  to  by  thf  governing  classes  ia 
the  kingdoms  of  early  Greece.  Almost  all  their  heroes 
and  chitftains  claimed  kindred  with  Jupiter,  and  were 
rectilinear  descendants  from  Hercules  and  Theseui. 
Claims  so  exalted,  were  however,  to  be  supported  by  a 
Buperiurity  of  mental  and  bodily  endowments,  in  some 
degree  commensurate;  so  that  the  sturdy  warriours,  who 
led  the  van  ol  the  tight,  and  bore  the  tempest  of  battle  on 
shields,  which  the  less  practised  strength  of  their  follow- 
ers was  inadequate  to  wield,  might  exclaim,  probably 
with  as  much  truth  as  vanity  ; 


nnvTic  ii,  61CUC  >^>  ttro^'.oivi ; 


Paganism  was,  however,  too  lax  a  system,  and  the  ten- 
dency of  the  Gret'ks  to  fnedtim  and  knowledge  too 
strong,  for  divine  right  long  t(»  niainfain  an  ascendancy 
over  them  :  it  was  hiuied  with  lli>'  Heraclidffi,  and  would 
probably  have  been  forgotten  with  ornrles  and  omens,  had 
not  the  early  Christian  church  borrowed  a  similar  notion 
from  the  Jewish  dispens  ilions,  and  emjdoyed  it  as  an  in- 
strument to  perfect  an  alliance    with  civil  government ; 


.1! 


f 

f 


hk 


•J86 


APPENDIX. 


'*'  I 


to  aid  the  usurpations  o(  which,  the  Clcrc;y,  in  considera- 
tion of  value  received,  lent  that  Right  Divine,  which  in 
their  own  hand  proved  so  etlicucious  an  instrument  of 
subjugation. 

As  Ion":,  however,  as  the  Feudal  system  held  its  ma- 
turity of  strength,  the  doctrine  of  Divine  Right  seems  to 
have  had  but  a  vague  and  partial  etlV-ct  on  the  miiitary^ 
Aristocracies  which  frequently  usurped  and  concentrated 
the  whole  powers  of  governrrlent.* 

It  was  not  until  these  were  broken  up,  that  we  find  it 
assuming  an  important  rank  among  political  principles. 

In  England,  it  attained  the  zenith  of  its  influence  under 
the  Stuarts;  but  exposed  and  confounded  by  philosophy, 
it  grew  out  of  vogue  at  the  period  of  the  Revolution;  so 
that  it  seems  to  have  been  pretty  generally  laid  by 
among  the  antiquated  notions  of  past  generations  ;  with 
this  exception,  however,  in  its  favour,  that  it  should  be 
again  brought  forward  whenever  a  period  of  nolitical  de- 
lusion should  favour  its  resurrection;  for  though  it  bears 
its  native  al)surdily  somewhat  ostentatiously  on  its  front, 
it  is  a  natural  favourite  with  politicians,  both  on  ac- 
count of  tlie  ingenious  manner,  in  which  it  confounds  the 
intelligible  with  the  mysterious,  the  cause  of  bad  men, 
with  that  of  a  benevolent  Deity ;  and  also  from  its  ines- 
timable quality,  of  rendering  reason  superfluous. 

2.  A  right  of  inheritance  in  some  men  to  govern  others, 
may  be  thus  expressed  ;  "  My  father  governed  your  father  ; 
therefore,  I  have  a  right  to  govern   you." 

A  formula  which  carries  little  more  authority  with  it, 
than  if  one  should  say,  "  My  father  munlered  your  fa- 
ther, therefore  I  have  a  right  to  murder  you."  The  sim- 
ple existence  of  the  fact  confers  no  right.  Admit  the 
right  in  the  terms  of  the  proposition,  and  it  will  stand 
thus;  "My  father  had  a  right  to  govern  your  father, 
therefore  I  have  a  right  to  govern  you :"  that  is,  you 
foherit  your  father's  rights  to  govern  my  father ; — grant- 
ed ;  but  you  cannot  claim  as  an   inheritance,  that  which 


*  The  honest  Bishop  of  Carlisle's  speerh  against  the  depo- 
sition of  Richard  |[.  seems  to  be  a  fair  statement  of  this  doc- 
trine, as  maintained  by  cliiirchmHii ;  while  the  event  shew  how 
little  it  was  able  to  iutluenoe  the  lay  nubility. 


.>■ 


considera- 
,  which  in 
Irument  of 

ikl  its  ma- 
t  seems  to 
iie  military 
ncentrated 

we  find  it 
riiiciples. 
ence  under 
philosophy, 
olulion;  so 
ly    laid  by 
ions  ;  with 
:  shouhl  be 
tiolitical  de- 
gh  it  bears 
)n  its  front, 
loth  on   ac- 
mfounds  the 
)f  bad  men, 
om  its  ines- 

18. 

ern  others, 
your  father ; 

rity  wilh  it, 

ed  your  fa- 

The  siin- 

Admit  Ihe 

will  Blind 

your  father, 
ii\t  is,  you 

ler ; — grant- 
that  which 

st  the  depo- 
ofthis  <loc- 
jnt  shew  how 


APPENDIX. 


•287 


your  father  did  not  possess,  namely,  a  right  to  govern  me, 
who  was  not  then  bora. 

This  imperfect  analogy,  however,  betwixt  the  inheri- 
tance of  |)roperly,  and  that  of  power;  a  jierpefual  inac- 
curacy with  regard  to  Ihe  meaning  of  such  words  as 
Crown,  Government,  and  Kingdom,  (an  inaccuracy  to  be 
expected  in  times  and  persons  little  accustomed  to  con- 
sider the  import  of  abstract  terms)  together  with  a  na- 
tural propensity  in  the  human  mind  to  regaKI  that  which 
is,  as  that  which  should  be,  have  patched  np  the  idol 
of  Legitimacy,  or  Hereditary  Right;  an  absurdity  of  the 
same  character  with  Divine  Right,  but  more  likely  to 
keep  its  footing  in  an  enlightened  age,  because  it  claims 
an  alliance  with  that  reason,  which  the  former  religious- 
ly discards. 

3.  Custom  has  been  allowed  In  certain  cases  to  confer 
right ;  is  it  therefore  in  itself  right,  or  does  it  become  so 
from  certain  associations  '/ 

It  is  clearly  not  right  in  itself,  because  customs  may 
be  absurd,  inhuman,  or  impious. 

That  it  sometimes  becomes  right,  seems  equally  indis- 
putable. 

By  what  rule,  therefore,  must  Custom  be  tried  to  dis- 
cover in  it  the  quality  of  right? — Why  is  any  custom  ab- 
surd, or  inhuman  ?  Because  by  militating  against  reason 
or  humanity,  it  produces  evil,  instead  of  good. 

Here  then  we  perceive  a  standard,  by  which  custom 
may  be  tried  ;  that  of  Utility. 

Prescriptive  rights  to  power  must  be  examied  there- 
fore by  this  rule ;  but  if  it  be  essential  to  their  approval, 
that  they  should  be  so  examined,  their  authority  rests  on 
another  basis  than  that  of  jirescription,  namely,  that  of 
Utility. 

Since  therefore,  Prescri()tion  requires  the  sanction  ■ii 
Utility  to  become  right,  by  itself  it  conveys   no  right. 

4.'  It  was  probably  the  evi<lent  inadequacy  of  these 
sanctions,  which  gave  rise  to  the  supposition  of  a  Con- 
tract betwixt  the  government  and  the  people,  which  was 
so  far  n  tribute  paid  to  the  more  enlightened  notions  of 
mankinil  on  this  subject.  I  proceed  to  consider  the  vali- 
dity of  such  a  contract. 

A  contract  is  an  agreement  betwixt  two  "jtarties  to  do. 
or  forbear  certain  things. 


/ 


i    ■ 

'r 


^ 


v- 


288 


APPENDIX. 


i;  n 


mi 


<5- 


The  validity  of  a  contract  depends,  lat,  on  the  right 
,  of  the  parties  to  enter  into  it ;  and  this  depends  on  the 
right  they  have  previously  over  the  subject-matter  ol'  the 
contract;  fur  if  they  have  no  such  right,  the  contract 
haq  no  oiore  validity  than  an  agreemertt  betwixt  two 
thieves,  to  divide  the  property  of  an  honest  man. 

2d.  On  the  ability  of  the  parties  to  perform  it.  Without 
such  ability,  it  is  equivalent  to  an  agreement  to  cut  up 
the  moon  in  quarters;  it  is  an  absurdity.* 

How  far  does  a  Contract  betwixt  a  government  and  a 
nation  answer  to  these  conditions  ? 

If  a  right  to  power  he  derived  from  a  Contract,  it  did 
not  exist  previous  to  that  Contract :  but  the  government 

A,  consisting  of  one,  or  of  fifty  persons,  contracts  with 
the  natioii  B,  consisting  of  5,000,000;  therefore  A  has 
as  much  right  to  govern  B,  as  B  has  to  govern  A ;  but 
by  the  hypothesis,  A  contracts  to  obtain  this  right,  there- 
fore A  did  not  previously  possess  it,  and  was  not  in  a 
condition  to  contract. 

Again,  the  validity  of  a  contract  depends  on  the  ability 
of  the  contracting  parties  to  fuifd  it :  If,  however,  A  and 

B,  have  not  both  a  right  to  power,  it  must  be  lodged  in 
B,  since  J  is  to  derive  it  from  B;  then  either  B  has 
both  the  right  and  the  power,  or  B  has  the  right  and  A 
the  power.  In  the  former  case,  B  is  dependant  on  A, 
and  must  necessarily  want  ability  to  fulAI  the  contract. 
In  the  latter  case,  the  ability  is  wanting  to  B,  so  that 
a  fair  contract  is  impossible.! 

Admit,  however,  that  a  contract  could  Ite  framed,  bind- 
ing on  the  contracting,  or  supposed  contracting  parties 
themselves;  by  what  rule  could   these  pretend  to  bind 

*  If  the  parties  are  conscious  of  their  inability,  the  contract 
is  fraudulent,  if  unconscious,  they  are  "quoad  hoc,*'  no  better 
tban  idiots.        .  < 

f  However  hypothetical  this  statement  may  appear,  it  is 
strictly  conformable  to  experience. 

History  offers  us  no  example  of  a  contract,  in  the  fair  sense 
•f  the  word,  betwixt  a  government  aud  a  nation. 

In  civil  contests,  the  prevailing  party  has  imposed  terras  on 
the  other,  more  or  less  severe,  more  or  less  advantageous,  in 
proportion  to  the  maguitude  of  the  triumph,  or  the  surviving 
means  of  resistance. 


n^ 


•# 


li 


AP;<!:irDix. 


289 


J  right 
on  the 
ot  the 
ontract 
xt  two 

\rithout 
cut  up 

t  and  a 

t,  it  aid 
jirnnient 
;t8  with 
!  A  has 
I  A ;  but 
,t,  there- 
not  in  a 

le  ability 
sr,  A  and 
odged  in 
;r  B  has 
ht  and  A 
nt  on  A, 
contract, 
so  that 

ed,  bind- 
parties 
to  bind 

contract 
no  better 

ear,  it  is 

I'air  sense , 

terms  on 
igeoHS,  in 
(surviving 


their  posterity  ?  GranI  thrit  my  ancestors  could,  and  did 
legtdly  deliver  themselves  into  hunu<tg:e  to  yuurs,  could 
they  therefore  di^liver  me  to  you ;  the  unborn  to  the  un- 
born ?  VVMiatever  ri^ht  they  had  to  contriict  for  them- 
selves, the  same  must  I  have  to  contract  for  myself. 

Should  the  analogy  of  lesKtmentary  tlisjiusitions  and 
entails  he  adduced  to  support  the  right  of  existing  socie* 
ties  to  bind  Iheir  descendants,  it  my  he  answered,  that 
post-obit  dispositions  of  every  kind  are  creations  of  so- 
ciety. 

In  a  state  of  nature,  the  rights  of  each  individual  die 
with  him  ;  uuder  the  social  system,  they  are  prolonged,  not 
surely  for  his  own  advantage  (lor  it  wouhl  t»e  a  little  ab- 
surd to  siii'pose  all  the  present  inhabitants  of  the  earth, 
merely  usufnictuaries  for  the  beiietit  of  their  deceased  an- 
cestors) but  for  the  general  good; 

We  are  thus  conducted  to  a  right  deduced,  not  from 
Contract,  but  Utility. 

The  Americans,  rejecting  therefore  these  fantastick 
bases  of  government,  perceived  there  was  one  Right  u|>on 
which  no  question  could  be  raised,  namely,  the  Right  of 
each  individual  to  bestow  that  which  belonged  to  him. 

Each  individual,  as  has  been  ol)served,  sacritices,  on 
entering  into  society,  a  certain  portion  of  his  freedom^ 
that  is,  of  his  absolute  and  unlimited  right  over  his  own 
person  and  property.  But  these  portions  so  sacrificed, 
are  not  lost,  nor  to  be  made  an  appanage  for  the  strongest ; 
but  they  constitute  a  general  stock  of  national  power  to 
be  used  for  the  publick  good. 

The  Right  of  distribution  resides  in  the  nation,  because 
national  power  is  a  property  incapable  of  being  transfer* 
red  to  individuals;  and  this  Right  constitutes  National 
Sovereignty,  the  only  legitimate  origin  of  government. 
"  For  the  ancient  sjiecies  of  compact,"  says  Mr.  Taylor, 
p.  425.  "  our  policy  has  substituted  a  chain  of  subordina- 
tion suspended  from  its  principle  of  the  right  of  self-go- 
vernment. Our  political  sovereignty  is  the  first  link,  and 
our  government  the  second.'*       . 


M 


it  I 


IP 


?a 


.'ju).'"!  In  r 


■#* 


291) 


APPENDIX. 


SECTION  II. 

OF  THE  SYSTEM  OF  ORDERS. 

The  Americans  having,  by  means  of  Conventions, 
given  life  to  the  principle  of  National  Sovereignty,  pro- 
ceeded to  consider  what  form  of  government  would  be 
most  in  unison  with  it. 

They  had  the  light  of  ages  to  guide  them  in  their  se- 
lection ;  and  the  result  uf  it  will  instruct  us  to  what  pur- 
pose they  employed  the  means  within  their  grasp;  how 
far  they  are  to  be  considered  as  servile  imitators ^of  Euro- 
pean  institutions,  and  how  far  they  have  enlarged  the 
Umits  of  political  science. 

The  three  sim|)le  forms  of  government  had  been  so 
generally  felt,  and  pronounced  to  he  evil,  that  there  was 
never  a  question  of  them  in  America. 

The  compound  form,  however,  or  system  of  Orders, 
was  so  far  from  being  included  in  this  sentence,  that  it  is 
generally  regarded  in  other  countries,  and  even  by  a 
small  but  respectable  party  in  America,  as  the  Archetype 
of  their  own  government.  Mr.  Adams'  "  Defence," 
seems  to  have  been  written  for  the  express  purpose  of 
proving  that  this  either  was,  or  ought  to  be,  the  case ; 
and  the  Federalists  are,  for  the  most  part,  followers  of 
the  same  doctrine. 

The  question  therefore  demands  examination. 

If  both  the  fundamental  principles,  and  experimental 
effects  of  this  system  are  wholly  different  from  those  of 
the  American  policy,  it  would  be  absurd  to  insist  upon 
their  being  copies  one  of  the  other. 

The  peculiar  merit  of  the  system  of  Orders,  or  Estates, 
is  admitted  to  consist  in  the  equilibrium  maintained  among 
them,  each  acting  as  a  check  upon  the  other. 

The  means  by  which  this  effect  is  produced,  are  also 
admitted  to  be  jealousy,  and  a  balance  of  power. 

The  result  is  asserted  to  be  the  greatest  political  hap- 
piness of  which  mankind  are  capable. 

Political  theories  are  objects  of  ridicule  to  practical 
politicians,  yet  Plato's  republick  would.seem  the  vulgarest 
matter  of  fact,  if  compared  with  the  system  of  Orders, 
as  laid  down  in  theory. 


:("•■ 


ventions, 
nty,  pro- 
vould  be 

their  se- 
whut  pur- 


asp; 


how 


of  Euro- 
irged  the 

been  so 
there  was 

if  Orders, 
that  it  is 
ven  by  a 
Archetype 
Defence," 
lurpose  of 
the  case ; 
Howers  of 


lerimental 
those  of 
asist  upon 

or  Estates, 
aed  among 

are  also 

itical  hap- 

practical 

vulgarest 

of  Orders, 


APPENDIX. 


291 


Three  Estates  or  Orders,  nnturally  hostile,  and  equal  in 
power,  are  to  he  held,  like  the  Ass  in  the  Fable,  or  Ma- 
homet's Coffin,  in  a  stale  of  |»erpetual  neutrality,  by  the 
operation  of  the  evil  mordl  quHliiy,  jealousy  ! 

I  know  of  nothing  with  which  to  com|>ai'e  such  an  in- 
genious piece  of  moral  mechanism,  except  the  celebrated 
dagger  scene  in  The  Critick.  Wrre  experience  howev- 
er in  its  favour,  its  theoretical  effigy  would  be  unimpor- 
tant; but  the  deep  and  sober  warning  of  history  flatly 
contradicts  its  pretensions. 

History  tells  us,  that  the  three  ingredients  of  the  com- 
pound Monarchy,  Aristocracy,  and  Democracy,  alike  nox- 
ious when  single,  have  exhiltited  the  same  deleterious  quali- 
ties under  every  form  of  combination  ;  and  that  so  far 
from  having  ever  been  held  in  equilibrium  one  by  ano- 
ther, the  moment  of  their  approximation  to  a  balance  has 
ever  been  the  signal  for  civil  wars,  terminating  in  a  fu- 
sion of  the  whole  compound  into  one  mass  of  anarchy,  or 
despotism. 

Aristocracy  and  Democracy  were  the  prevailing  forms 
of  Grecian  polity.  The  repeated  struggles  of  the  two 
factions,  throughout  Greece  generally,  and  in  each  par- 
ticular city,  denote  at  least  an  approximation  to  a  balance, 
since  neither  party  could  completely  prevail  over  the 
other;  but  did  they  therefore  preserve  tranquillity  and 
freedom  ?  Did  they  not,  on  the  contrary,  deliver  the  no- 
blest race  of  men  that  ever  existed,  into  the  benumbing 
embrace  of  absolute  power  ? 

We  have  little  certain  knowledge  of  the  early  Mo- 
narchy of  Rome.  Its  lineaments,  however,  exhibit  some 
traces  of  a  system  of  Orders,  consisting  of  a  King,  Senat^, 
and  People. 

It  lasted  until  the  king  felt  himself  strong  enough  to 
oppress,  and  the  people  to  resist ;  when  each  party  had 
recourse  to  arms,  and  the  contest  was  so  far  doubtful,  that 
the  existence  of  the  republick  was  jeopardized. 

The  government  afterwards  fell  into  the  hands  of  the 
Senate,  with  their  relations  and  connexions,  the  Patri- 
cians, who  probably  at  this  period  constituted  an  Aristo- 
cracy, according  to  the  original  sense  of  the  word. 

As  the  Plebeians  grew  sensible  of  their  own  weight, 
they  put  themselves  into  competition  with  the  Patricians, 
for  the  purpose  of  opening  their  monopoly  of  dignities, 


' 


^ 


29 


o 


APPENDIX. 


I:   .  ni 

.1? 


»     '  »  1(, 


and   breaking  <]o\vo  their  accumulaliun  of  property,  by 
means  of  the  A&;rarian  Law. 

The  fate  of  all  those  who  attempted  this  measure, 
notwithstanding  their  talents  and  [topularily,  clearly 
proves,  that  the  aristooralical  party,  notwithstanding  its 
occasional  concessions,  still  maintained  an  ascendancy, 
which  could   he  levelled  only   by  civil  war. 

Marius  was  the  Brat  Plebeian  consul ;  thenceforth  the 
contest  seems  equal,  the  result  was  f«lavery  to  all. 

We  read  over  agaai  the  history  of  Greece  in  that  of 
the  Italian  republic'. s.  The  noldes  an<l  people  wire  so 
far  balanced,  that  neither  could,  entirely,  put  down  the 
other.  In  their  towns,  the  body  of  I  he  citizens  pre- 
vailed; the  exiled  or  tiefeated  nobles  took  refuge  in  their 
castles,  among  their  vassals;  devastated  I  he  country, 
united  with  foreign  powers,  and  thus  recovered  wlieir  lost 
ground  ;  but  the  restoration  of  (l;ie  equilibrium  never  res- 
tored freedom.  The  result  whs  the  estabiishm^'nt  of  a 
tyrant,  of  one  party  or  the  other.  His  reign  in  some 
degree  set  up  the  fyslera  of  Orders,  which  lasted  until  it 
approached  an  equilibrium,  by  the  awakening  of  the  peo- 
ple to  a  sense  of  their  opiiression  and  strength,  when  the 
edifice  tumt>led  to  ruin. 

The  institutions  of  modern  European  governments  are 
all  of  Feudal  origin,  changed  and  moditied  by  time  and 
accident. 

The  Feudal  system  is  itself  a  curious  illustration  of  the 
effect  of  Orders  in  government.  It  prevailed  generally 
through  Europe  from  the  dissolution  of  the  Koman  em- 
pire almost  to  our  own  times;  it  had  therefore  some 
principle  of  durability  :  but  its  dissolution  has  constantly 
taken  place  at  (he  moment  the  equilibrium  of  Orders 
seemed  established. 

In  its  infancy,  as  in  its  old  age,  it  consisted  of  three 
estates,  a  King,  a  Nol)ility,  and  the  free  Tenants. 

During  several  centuries,  the  power  of  the  Kings  and 
People  was  dust  in  the  balancei  against  (hat  of  the  No- 
bility :  alienation  destroyed  the  power  of  the  great  vas- 
lals,  while  that  of  (he  Crown  continued  to  increase,  at 
the  expense  of  those  who  had  formerly  overawed  it.  un- 
til in  France  under  the  Bourbons,  in  Spain  under 
Charles  V.  and  his  successors,  in  England  under  the 
Tudon  and  Stuarts,  it  elevated  itself  above  both  the 


•'■\ 


APPENDIX. 


293 


.t 


^ 


erty,  by 

neasure, 

clearly 

ding  its 

jmlancy, 

rorth  the 

that  of 

w't  re  80 

lown  the 

iens  pre- 

iii  I  heir 
country, 
lieir  lost 
-ver  res- 
ent of  a 
in  some 
il  until  it 
r  the  peo- 
vvheii  the 

Ifients  are 
time  and 

on  of  the 

reiierally 
man  em- 
)i'e  some 
nstantly 
f  Orders 

|of  three 
Is. 

lings  and 
r  the  No- 
•at  vas- 
J-ease,  at 
d  it.  UD- 
|i  under 
ider  the 
hoth  the 


Nobles  and  People,  the  latter  of  wht>m  it  employed  as 
the  iiidtrumeut  of  its  elevation,  forcing  the  d*  {graded  no- 
bility into  the  rank  of  eoiirliirs  and  df pentlanla. 

During  these  changes,  the  condition  of  the  people 
changed  also;  they  rost-  r.ij»id!y  int«>  im;'orlaiice,  »o  that 
hy  the  time  the  Crown  hud  com;)let«<i  ils  iridmph  t»ver 
the  barons,  they  stoutl  u,iom  the  giouiid  of  equitiiiy  with 
it.  liut  (he  wheel  did  not  sloj).  The  Unlers  thus 
eipialized,  did  not  remiiin  susneiiiled  in  an  ei|Uilil>rinm 
of  ev<  riasling  inictivily :  in  En;^iand.  where  the  pro- 
gress of  events  hid  heen  most  rapiti,  a  civil  war  en- 
sued, and  it  would  lie  ditheult  to  discover  any  thing  re- 
sem()ling  a  balance  of  Orders  from  this  period  to  that  of 
the  Revolution. 

In  France  the  same  eflecis  were  |)rodi!ced  ni<»re  slow- 
ly ;  there  was  no  mention  of  a  lialanee  of  orders  under 
Louis  XIV.  or  XV.;  hut  an  ap|.roxim<lion  towards  it 
ap|)eared  under  their  uidvtrtunate  sneet  §»•>!■ ;  we  know  the 
result  was  any  thing  but  the  so  much  celel.ratt  d  repose 
of  mutual  jealousy. 

There  is  another  antl  more  important  period  to  he  ex- 
amined ;  that  of  the  present  generation.  If  we  can  now 
discover  trunquiiliiy  and  happiness  r<sultnii<;  from  a 
balance  of  Orders,  the  Americans  ni.>)'  mistrusl  tluir  con- 
stitution, and  leave  the  Federalists  to  inlerpiet  it. 

Power  follows  wealth;  where  one  is,  tluie  will  the 
other  be  also.  'J'he  Feudal  Aristocracy  resied  upon  the 
solid  foundation  of  property;  with  the  chnreii,  il  dixidt-d 
the  wealth  as  well  ns  the  power  of  Lnrope.  The  power 
of  the  Crown,  which  succeeded  it,  did  not  rest  pre« 's«  ly 
U|>on  the  same  basis.  Alienation  and  commerce,  which 
had  impoverished  the  Barons,  had  enriched  the  Commons 
in  the  same  proportion,  liut  the  change  had  been  gradual, 
and  habits  of  submission  continued  to  give  the  Crown 
advantages  not  naturally  (telonging  to  it;  it  is  tlurtfore 
simide  enough  that  it  should  have  acqniicd  an  immense 
accession  of  power  in  this  interval  ol  Itaronial  wtakness, 
and  |)opular  ignorance;  Itut  to  recover  the  same  or  even 
a  still  greater  degree  after  the  people  had  loth  f(  It  and 
used  their  strength,  was  a  procesH  more  complicated;  its 
consuleration  involves  the  quustiuu  of  the  balance,  as  at 
present  existing. 


I. 


I! 


294 


APPENDIX. 


Jl 


it       ftfl 


3 


When  Buonaparte  assumed  a  place  among  the  legiti* 
mule  sovereigns  of  Europe,  he  reiidily  perceived,  that 
notwithstitniiing  his  immctise  military  force,  there  would 
be  no  stability  in  the  imiierial  throne,  unless  he  could 
8-jcceed  in  raising  such  n  countervailing  power  to  that  of 
the  people,  as  existed  under  the  ancient  Regime.  The 
attemit  was  mide  under  a  partial  and  narrow  view  of 
circumstances  :  not  even  Buonaparte  could  create  an 
aristocracy,  which  had  been  the  work  of  events  and 
times  irrevocable.  Had  he  succeeded,  the  history  of 
France  would  have  foretold  to  him,  how  little  his  family 
would  have  profited  by  it.  He  did  not  succeed,  but 
created  a  Peerage  of  phantoms,  which  added  neither 
support  nor  lustre  to  his  throne;  slaves  in  prosperity, 
summer  flics  in  the  winter  of  his  downfall.  He  felt  this 
errour,  and  'on  his  return  from  Elba  sought  to  buiid  on  a 
surer  foundation ;  but  the  real  state  of  the  question  was 
then  revealed;  it  was  this,  that  the  true  strength  of  a 
nation  resides  in  the  body  of  the  People,  and  that  govern- 
ments which  are  not  founded  upon  the  principle  of  Na- 
tional Sovereignty,  by  which  is  im[died  a  right  in  the 
nation  to  choose  its  own  agents,  must  rely  for  their  sup- 
port upon  force  and  fraud.  The  People  are  never  willing 
and  knowing  victims. 

Little  need  be  said  of  France  since  the  restoration  of 
the  Bourbons :  it  is  evident  that  the  ingredients  are 
wanting  for  compounding  a  new  system  of  Estates,  it 
only  therefore  rem  tins  to  be  ^een  what  fraud  and  force 
can  effect,  against  the  right  of  self-government.  This 
seems  acknowledged,  that  they  who  use  them,  have  as 
yet  little  confidence  in  their  wea|)ons. 

I  proceed  to  consider  the  English  system,  regarded  by 
Mr.  Adams,  as  the  most  perfect  exemplihcation  of  the 
system  of  Orders,  with  its  anti-attrition  wheels  of  mutual 
jealousy. 

"  The  constitutional  government  of  this  island,"  says 
Blackstone,  "  is  so  admirably  tempered  and  compounded, 
that  nothing  can  endanger  or  hurt  it,  but  destroying  the 
equilibrium  of  power  between  one  branch  of  the  legis- 
lature and  the  rest,"  1.  p.  51.  The  three  co-equals  are 
necessarily  equal  to  one  another;  therefore  the  House 
of  Peers  is  equal  in  power  to  the  Crown.  Power  fol- 
lows  wealth ;  he  who  commands  the  wealth  of  others, 


..I- ,,.11: 


APPENDIX. 


295 


commands  the  power  attncheil  to  that  wealth.  The 
King  of  England,  besides  a  personal  revenue  of  1,000,000/., 
commands  as  much  more  as  maintains  an  army  of  nearly 
100,000  regular  troops  a  considerable  fleet,  an  im- 
mense body  of  civil  agents,  with  abundance  of  pensioners 
and  other  persons,  attached  either  by  hope  or  fear  to  its 
interests.  Let  the  popular  strength  be  deducted  from 
either  side,  and  the  two  parties  take  the  field  with  their 
own  resources,  would  the  contest  be  prolonged  half  an 
hour?  Would  there  be  a  contest?  Shall  it  be  said  the 
parties  are  equal,  because  the  Crown  dares  not  attempt 
the  lives  or  property  of  the  Peers ;  I  ask,  why  dares  it 
not?  because  the  third  party  would  necessarily  take  a 
part  in  the  contest ; — but  this  proves  any  thing  but  an 
equality  betwixt  the  two.* 

Is  the  House  of  Peers  equal  in  power  to  the  popular 
branch  of  the  constitution  ?  The  power  of  a  representa- 
tive body  is  to  be  measured  by  that  of  the  represented ; 
a  small  portion  only  of  the  English  pcoitle  is  represent- 
ed; yet  even  this  portion  far  exceeds,  in  the  sunr.  total 
of  its  property,  that  of  the  aristocrat ical  branch,  who 
bring  with  them  the  weight  only  of  their  individual  es- 
tates. If  in  this  condition  it  be  no  match  for  the  Com- 
mons, much  less  would  it  be  felt,  if  weighed  against  the 
whole  strength  of  the  People,  according  to  the  theory  of 
the  constitution,  and  according  to  the  interpretation  of  it 
by   its  admirers  in  America. 

In  France,  the  Nobility,  at  the  period  of  the  revolu- 
tion, far  exceeded  the  English  peerage  in  all  the  essen- 
tial qualities  of  an  aristocracy.  It  had  more  wealth, 
greater  numbers,  ampler  privileges,  and  deeper  preju- 
dices in  its  favour;  yet  it  was  not  more  sensibly  felt 
than  the  fly  on  the  bull's  horn  against  the  power  of  the 
People. 

It  remains  to  consider  the  equilibrium  of  power  be- 
twixt the  Crown  and  the   People.     Whatever  the  Crown 

•  As  lonji;  as  the  nobility  were  rrally  formidable  to  the 
crown,  the  latter  watclud  ovrr  tlirm.  In  liel<l  thiin  with  jea- 
loiiAy,  and  soiif^ht  every  orrasion  to  diminish  their  power. 
Does  the  crown  any  lonjjer  watch  over,  or  seek  to  dimiuiiih 
their  number  and  infliirnrc  ?  Does  it  rrrnte  a  "  batch  of  peers" 
for  the  «akc  of  having  fo  many  atiditinnal  enemirR  ? 


11* 

t 

1 1 


- 


,; 


.11 


296 


APPBIfDIX. 


i: 


n 


'  I 


K  n 


i  ij 


*/. '  \ 


possesses,  it  ilerives  from  the   People ;  there  can  there- 
fore ho  no  niitiiral  pquiliUrium   betwixt   fhein. 

When  Peter  (he  Hermit  begin  to  preach  the  crusades, 
there  whs  nothing  like  equality  of  power  betwixt  him 
and  the  sm^illest  of  his  congregations.  When  he  set 
out  for  Asia  at  the  head  of  4  or  500,000  fanaticks,  there 
was  no  equilibrium  betwixt  them  and  him  :  as  long  as 
the  deltiRion  l:«8ted  Ihey  were  as  absolutely  his  instru- 
ments as  his  beads  and  staff.  Whoever  can  substitute  his 
interest  in  my  mind,  in  the  place  of  my  own,  is  my  mas- 
ter, more  absolutely  than  if  he  held  me  in  bondage. 

It  is  Ihis  reflection  which  must  guide  as  to  an  estimate 
of  the  comifirative  strength  of  the  Crown  and  People  in 
England.  If  the  latter  can  be  induced  to  believe  their 
interest  demands  a  standing  army;  and  such  a  system  of 
taxition  as  sliall  mortgage  the  whole  property  of  the  na- 
tion into  the  han  Is  of  a  few  individuals ;  it  is  quite 
clear  (he  power  will  no  longer  be  in  their  hands,  but  in 
those  of  the  Crox^n  which  holds  the  sword,  and  in  those 
of  (he  m>rtgagee8  to  whom  (heir  property  is  pledged. 

The  Vational  Sovereignty  is  therefore  in  the  hands  of 
two  parties.  The  Crown,  and  a  new  Order  in  the  state, 
entitled  the  IMonied  Interest.  The  history  of  this  order 
is  contained  in  our  annals  from  (he  time  of  Sir  Robert 
Walpole,  who  first  built  it  up  against  the  landed  or 
Tory  interest. 

It  is  natural  to  inquire,  how  an  enlightened  nation 
could  he  tem  >ted  into  this  act  of  political  suicide.  Many 
catises  were  combined  to  produce  it ;  (he  landed  interest 
fell  into  disrepute  from  its  tory  princinles ;  national  ani- 
mosities were  carefully  fostered,  to  hurry  the  people  into 
French  wars  and  Germin  alliances ;  debt  was  (he  na- 
tural conseqtience,  and  taxation  the  consequence  of  debt. 
Taxation  is  naturally  unpo;)ular;  the  dullest  knave  will 
feel  through  his  pocket,  and  the  feeling  quickly  becomes 
as  general  as  the  cause  of  it :  it  was  here  the  principle  of 
fraud  began  to  exercise  ilself.  It  was  not  easy  to  per- 
suade the  payers  of  taxes  (hat  (hey  did  not  feel  (hem, 
but  it  was  attem  tted  and  found  possible  to  persuade 
th>,n,  (hat  this  uneasy  sensation  wis  like  a  rash  or  a 
boil,  the  surest  symitom  of  vigorous  heaUh ;  and  when 
this  was  done,  it  was  comparatively  easy  to  go  a  step 


1  there' 

Tiisades, 

ixt   him 

he  set 

is,  there 

long  as 
)  instru- 
ilute  his 
my  mas- 
e. 

estimate 
eople  in 
ve  their 
ystem  of 

the  na- 

is  quite 
,  but  in 
in  those 
Iged. 

hands  of 
he  state, 
his  order 
r  Robert 

nded  or 

nation 

Many 
interest 
inal  ani- 
>ple  into 
the  na* 
of  debt, 
ive  will 
lecomes 
fciple  of 

to  per- 
il them, 
^eraudde 
)h  or  a 
id  when 

a  step 


APPENDIX. 


297 


further,  and  assure  them  it  wjs  not  only  a  symptom  of 
good   health,  bul    actuaily   the   cause  ot  it. 

We  catch  a  glimpse  of  the  cords  and  pulleys,  by  which 
this  machinery  was  pluycd  oti',  in  the  lifih  chapter  of 
Sterne's  pusiiiumuus  works.  IJe  was  employed,  he  says, 
to  write  a  piimphlet  in  defence  of  Sir  Robert  Walpole, 
and  he  thus  desurilus  the  course  he  took.  "  1  itffirmed 
thai  ihe  high  price  ut'  jirovisions  so  loudly  complainMi  of, 
aroHe  t'rum  (he  riches  and  atfluence  daily  (lowing  into  the 
kingdom,  under  the  auspices  of  uur  minister.  And  that 
the  accumulaiibu  of  taxes,  like  Ihe  rising  of  renin,  was 
the  8ur<-sl  token  of  a  nation's  thriving;  IhJ  (he  dearness 
of  niirkets,  with  these  new  imjtosis  of  government,  neces- 
sarily doutded  industry;  and  that  an  increase  of  this  natu- 
ral kind  of  manufacture^  was  adding  to  Ihe  capital  stock  of 
the  commonweahh.  I  lamented  Ihe  fatal  eflecis  to  be 
apprehendt'd  from  all  these  beats,  animosities,  and  revil- 
ings,  which  1  said,  I  had  s[Ood  reason  to  atlirm  were  but  a 
method  of  acting  and  ins(illing  (re.-tson  under  cover;  for 
that  whenever  (he  minister  was  abused,  the  king  was  at- 
tacked. 

"  This  book  of  mine  has  been  the  codex,  or  ars  politica, 
of  all  the  ministerial  sycophants,  ever  since  that  era  ;  for 
I  have  scarcely  met  with  a  parhgra|»h  in  any  of  the  stale- 
hireling  writers  for  many  years  past,  that  1  could  not  trace 
fairly  back  to  my  own  cotle." 

The  separate  interests  created  by  debt  and  taxation, 
have  both  in  zeal  and  number,  been  powerful  auxiliaries 
of  this  system;  a  |iart  they  are  the  belter  able  to  play 
from  their  concentration,  the  sphere  I  hey  occupy,  and  the 
aid  of  a  venal  press.  All  these  advantages  would  proba- 
bly however,  have  been  found  insutlicient,  had  there  ex- 
isted any  unconlaminaled  organ  of  publick  opinion,  or 
none  so  styling  itself  hi  Ihe  first  case,  the  gooil  sense 
of  Ihe  nation  would  have  pierced  Ihe  cloud  of  sophistry, 
and  having  discovered  the  liuhl,  would  have  had  resolu- 
tion to  billow  it.  In  the  latter,  the  fountain  of  sup|dy 
would  either  have  been  chocked  by  des|»olism  and  Tur- 
kish darkness,  or  (which  is  more  probable)  would  have 
forcibly  worked  itself  a  new  and  purer  channel. 

The  consumm  ilion  of  (he  pretended  system  of  balances, 
is  to  transfer  to  the  Crown  and  iVlonied  Interest,  so  much 
of  the  People's  property  as  will  enrich  the  latter,  auU  ena- 


!>■ 


I 


V. 


<*,] 


1l 
1^ 


# 


<<<*h 


■m 


298 


APPRNDIX. 


( 


i.'       is 


i-  I  > 


ble  the  rormer  etfectii.illy  lo  |>rolect  it  in  its  flpolintioDi. 
The  toliowiiig  cxtr^ici  will  show  this  to  t>e  tht-  U«in>iura- 
tick  View  of  (lie  system. 

"  The  elfect  ol'  o|i|)OHile  iiileresiB,  orif  fnricheil  hy,  and 
goveriiiiiG;  the  other,  eurreclly  lollows  ila  Citiise.  One  in- 
terest i«i  a  lyt-.iiil,  the  other  its  slave.  In  KrhHiii.  one  uf 
these  iiitereBis  owes  to  the  other  itbove  ten  humlreil  mil- 
lions oi'  |»uiin(!s  sterling,  which  would  require  twelve  ttiil- 
lioiis  ul'  sliives  to  discharge,  at  eighty  (louiids  sterling 
each.  ir  the  delilor  interest  amounis  tu  ten  millions  of 
souls,  and  would  he  worth  forty  |iouiids  sterling  roiintl.  sold 
for  slaves,  it  pays  twelve  and  an  hall'  per  centum  on  its 
Ca;iiUtion  value,  to  the  creditor  interest,  for  the  exclusive 
items  of  deht  and  hank-slock.  This  protit  for  their  mas- 
ters, made  hy  those  who  are  called  freemv»n,  greatly  ex- 
ceeds what  is  generally  made  liy  those  v^ho  are  called 
slaves.  But  as  nothing  is  calculated  except  two  items, 
by  including  the  payments  for  useless  otfices,  excessive 
;>alarie8,  and  fat  sinecures,  it  is  evident  that  cme  interest 
makes  out  of  the  other,  a  far  greater  prulit  than  if  it  had 
sold  this  other,  and  placed  the  money  in  the  most  produc- 
tive slate  of  usance. 

"  Whatever  destroys  an  unity  of  interest  between  a 
government  and  a  nation,  infallibly  |)roduces  oppression 
and  haired.  Human  conception  is  unatde  lo  invent  a 
scheme,  more  capable  of  atllicting  mankimi  with  these 
evils,  than  that  of  paper  and  patronage.  It  divides  a  na- 
tion into  two  groups,  rredilors  and  delitors;  the  lirst  sup* 
plying  its  want  of  physical  strength,  by  allinnces  with 
fleets  and  armies,  and  practising  the  most  unlflusliing  cor- 
ruption. A  consciousness  of  inliieiing  or  sutfering  inju- 
ries, fills  each  with  malignity  towards  the  other.  Thia 
maliirnity  lirst  hegets  a  multitude  of  penalties,  punish- 
ments, and  executions,  and  then  vengeance.  A  legisla- 
ture, in  a  nation  where  the  system  of  paper  and  patron. ige 
prevails,  will  be  governed  liy  that  interest,  and  legislate 
in  Its  I'lvour.  it  is  imjiossil'le  to  do  this  without  legislat* 
in<;  to  the  injury  of  Ihe  other  interest,  that  is.  the  great 
ra^iss  of  the  nation.  Such  a  legislature  will  create  unne- 
cessary (tflires,  that  themselves  or  their  relations  may  be 
endowed  with  them.  They  will  lavish  the  revenue,  lo 
enrich  themselves.  They  will  borrow  for  tin?  nation,  that 
they  may  lend.      They  will  oAer  lenders  great  prohtf, 


I.  y.Wt  < 
14 


■^ 


olifltioDi. 
)fin<>ura- 

I  hy,  and 
One  in- 
II.  «Mi»-  of 
ilrfd  mil- 
flvr  iriil- 
sterliiig 
III  I  ions  of 
iiin<l,  sold 
im  «*n  its 
I'Hcliisive 
heir  mas- 
vally  ex- 
re  vailed 
wo  ilems, 
excessive 
e  interest 
if  it  had 
U  produc* 

elween  a 

|i|ireosiou 

invent  a 

iih  these 

es  a  iia- 

lirst  Blip* 

;«s  with 

ling  cor- 

ng  inju- 

Thit 

|iuniftli> 

legista* 

latron.ige 

egislnte 

legislat- 

ie  great 

te  unne> 

may  be 

enue,  to 

ion,  that 

prolits, 


APPBNDIX. 


299 


that  (hey  mny  nhnre  in  them.  As  grievances  grndually 
exrite  naiionHJ  discontent,  (hey  will  iix  the  yoke  mur»'  se- 
curely, liy  making  it  gradually  heavier.  And  they  will 
fin^^lly  av4i\v  and  maintain  their  corruption,  by  eslahlish- 
in;;  an  irn  sistiUe  slanding  army,  not  to  defend  the  nation, 
bul  lo  i!cfeud  a  system  for  plundering  the  nation."  Tay- 
lor, p.  38. 


SECTION    III. 
OP  THE  AMERICAN  SYSTEM, 

Notwithstanding  the  evidence  of  history,  (hat  the 
system  of  Orders  has  grown  out  of  feudalism,  lis  ihrtiriats 
have  maiiitrtined  it  to  he  the  produetion  ol'  fate,  or  nature, 
and  mankind  have,  through  this  belief,  been  hilherlo 
•'  held  enchanted  (to  use  Mr.  Taylor's  expression)  within 
the  circle  of  the  nnmeriral  analysis."  Nature,  according 
to  this  iloctrine,  engenders  Monarchy,  Aristocracy,  and 
Democracy,  all  fiMinded  on  evil  moral  qualities;  anil  ma^ 
has  nothing  left  to  do,  but  to  compound  three  eviU,  in 
the  jest  way  he  can,  and  extract  nutriment  from  poi- 
sons. 

The  American  system  supjioses  moral  liberty,  or  a 
power  of  choosing  tielwixl  ^oud  and  evil :  without  this  at- 
tribute, National  Sovereignly  would  be  only  an  oslentn- 
tioiis  display  of  human  weakness.  A  nation,  willing  its 
own  interest,  yet  unalile  lo  pursue  it,  would  exhiliii  the 
tormenting,  yet  ludicrous  aspect,  of  a  political  Tantalus. 

Man,  being  free  lo  choose,  cannot  bul  choose :  he  has 
moral  |iropensities,  su'ijccl  to  universal  m«»ral  laws.  "  The 
strongest  moral  propensity  of  man  (says  .\lr.  Taylor,  p. 
7t).)  is  to  do  good  lo  himself.  This  begets  a  propensity 
to  ilo  evil  lo  others,  for  the  sake  of  doing  giMid  to  himself." 
This  propensity,  being  governed  liy  motives,  is  capable 
of  increase  or  diminution.  To  whatever  increases  it,  we 
give  the  name  of  a  vicious  excitem»'nt,  and  vice  versa. 
Government,  being  composed  of  individuals,  and  by  indi- 
viduals, contains,  and  generates  the  same  moral  qualilies, 
which  will  be  good  or  evil,  in  proportion  to  the  excile- 
ments  it  contains,  to  good  or  evil  propensities.  Upon 
this  view  of  the  question,  a  new  raoile  of  analysis  is  ob- 


\ 


\ 


I  Y 


I 


i 


>■'' 


MT 


^      )> 


300 


APPENDIX. 


I: 


tained,  hy  means  of  ^hich,  governmentg  are  defined,  not 
according  tu  uuuierical  classtficutionB,  but  to  thtir  moral 
qualities. 

The  American  system  proposes  to  diminish  evil  in 
government,  by  weakening  its  generative  iirinriple ;  that 
is,  by  affording  the  least  possible  excitement  to  evil  moral 
qualities,  itoih  in  the  government  and  in  the  peo|)le. 

"■  Governments,  (suys  Mr.  Taylor,  |».  130.)  whoBe  ele- 
m^'Ols  are  fraud  or  I'orce,  will  naturally  excite  the  evil 
moral  qualities  of  human  nature;  and  those  whose  ele- 
ment is  reason,  cm  only  excite  its  tfood  And  if  every 
government  miisi  rely  for  continuance,  either  on  force  or 
fraud,  or  on  reason,  it  follows  that  every  government 
must  be  founded  in  good  or  in  evil  mitral  principles." 

He  enumerates  as  evil  moral  principles  of  government,  . 
"  Hereditary  order,  and  exclusive  privilege,  legal  religion, 
.legal  freedom  of  inquiry,  accumulation  of  power,  patron- 
age  or  corruption,  ignorance,  virtual  representation,  ju- 
dicial uncontrol,  funding,  and  an  oligarchy  of  banks. 
The  good  are,  national  sovereignty,  equality  of  civil 
r^hls,  freedom  of  religion,  and  of  inquiry,  division  of 
power,  knowledge,  uncorrupted  representation,  and  actual 
responsibility."     Taylor,  p.  406. 

A  bare  enumeration  of  principles  will  not  constitute  a 
good  government ;  it  is  necessary  it  should  be  moulded 
of,  and  in  them.  I^et  us  examine  how  far  this  is  the  case 
with  the  government  of  the  United  Slates 

1st. — Nallonol  Sovereignty  has  been  determined  to  be 
the  only  legitimate  origin  o(  power :  it  is  therefore,  the 
only  moral  basis  of  government,  and  consequently,  the 
only  one  capable  of  genet ating  good  moral  (ju  ililies. 

National  Sovereignty  is  incapable  of  alienation,  for 
its  supremacy  being  absolute  in  every  point  nf  time,  it 
cannot  he  divested  of  it,  even  by  its  own  act ;  still  less 
by  any  power  derived  from  itself.  Hence  follows  a  strik- 
ing difennce  betwixt  the  An.erican  system,  and  that  of 
Estates.  <  r  Orders.  ' 

Aceordiug  o  the  letter,  the  Ciovernment  is  the  natioo, 
because  the  thee  Estates  are  the  nation;  it  is  therefore 
illimitable,  for  the  same  reason  that  National  Sovereignty 
is  illimitable.  Acc(»rding  to  the  former.  Government  is 
an  agency,  and  therefore  limited  by  the  will  and  inten- 
tion of  the  natioo. 


■..'         r'      ■.•■'  '•'■ 


■^■' 


ned,  not 
ir  mural 

evil  in 

lie;  that 

vil  m«>ral 

•le. 

liooe  Wie- 
the *-vil 

liose  fle- 
il  every 
force  or 

(vernineut 

.les." 

veiitinent, 
il  religion, 
r,  palroQ- 
talion.  ju- 
ur  banks. 
y  of  civil 
ili vision  of 
and  actual 

ionstilute  a 
inuuUled 
is  the  case 

ined  to  be 
refore,  the 
lently,  the 

ities. 
nation,  for 

if  time,  it 
still   less 

\v8  a  slrik- 

nd  that  of 

the  natioo, 
s  theref«)re 
overeignty 
BrnmenI  ib 
and  inten- 


APPENDIX. 


301 


History  tells  us.  that  to  insure  national  tranquillity, 
ther*'  rr)t;8l  sninevliere  he  iuiljred.  in  pome  portiun  ol  the 
body  corpurale,  a  prepondt  Mting  pnvviM'.  H^niunt  which 
opposiliitu  is  useless  :  the  contntry  to  x^hicli.  is  a  teixlen* 
cy  t<i  equalization,  or  )  reteuiltd  lialaiices,  l.y  which  na- 
tions have  ever  been  convulsed,  and  fin;illy  ruined. 

'rp.iiiquilliiy  ;ind  h:i|ipiti('ss  are  not  ii^'noii}  moos.  A 
mMi  is  tranquil,  liecitiise  lie  has  i«o  leHSon  to  he  ns^ititled, 
or  he  is  tranquil,  hec.iuse  ;ti>;il<ition  will  procure  him  no 
relief.  Turkey,  Russia,  France,  Spain,  Enfjlaiid,  juid 
the  United  Stales,  have  been  ;i||  lran(piil  fur  considi  ra- 
ble  periods,  under  very  ditfi^reut  forms  of  goveriimr  iit ; 
but  these  forms  all  agreed  in  ihe  part.cular,  uf  a  prepon- 
deratinig;  power,  though  variouslj'  lodged. 

In  Turkey  and  Russia,  it  seems  resident  in  the  Thrr)ne, 
anil  a  military  Aristocracy;  in  France,  (lielore  the  Revo- 
lution,) and  in  Spain,  in  the  'I'hroue  more  exclusively, 
being  shared  with  less  independent  Aristocracies;  under 
Bona|>arte,  it  was  in  the  Army,  of  which  he  was  Ihe 
chief;  in  Englan<l,  it  has  fallen  into  Ihe  hands  of  the 
Crown  and  Monied  inlenst.  In  the  United  States,  it 
is  in  Ihe  hands  uf  the  Nation. 

We  may  observe  that  in  all  these  cases,  except  Ihe 
last,  it  is  lodged  in  Ihe  hands  of  a  minority,  and  con- 
seqiently  depends  upon  force  and  fraud.  Legal  religions 
and  standing  armies  are  therefore  commcm  to  them  all. 

In  the  latter  case  this  power  rests  upon  a  natural  basis^ 
and  therefore,  nee<ls  no  artihcial  means  uf  defence. 
Tranquillity  is  preserved,  because  there  is  no  proportion 
betwixt  the  slrenelh  of  the  few  interested  in  destroying, 
and  of  the  many  interested  in  mainlaining  it. 

2d. — Equality  of  Civil  R4ghis.  All  men  existing  in 
society  make  an  equal  sacrifice  of  their  freedom,  because 
ail  have  equally  an  a!  solule  right  over  their  persons  and 
properly.  The  exleiit  of  the  sacrifice  being  Ihe  mea- 
sure of  the  right,  and  the  absolute  right  over  a  shilling 
being  equal  to  the  absolute  righl  over  a  |)oiind.  in  as  much 
as  it  would  be  an  act  no  less  immornl  lo  dejirive  the  pos- 
sessor of  Ihe  one  than  of  Ihe  other,  inequality  of  proper- 
ty does  not  siiperiiidiice  inequality  of  rights  :  hut  rights 
beine  equal,  no  man  can  be  horn  with  a  rii>hl  lo  com- 
tp»nd   another;    therefore,   hereditary  oider  aud   iuheri- 


» 


:1 

i 


'        # 


/' 


I 


i 


M 


I 

4 


V 


II 


(^ 


i 


r  i  \ 


\  ItM 


.,:*-,  .. 


302 


APPENDIX. 


i 


V  \ 


,* 

ii 


table  privileges,  are  necessarily  excluded  from  the  Ameri> 
can  sysif m. 

Men  have  a  right  over  that  which  is  their  own ; 
either  to  ^ive  it  or  withhold  it;  and  they  have  also  a 
right  to  ffceive  that,  which  others  have  a  rigiu  to  give. 
The  former  would  be  negatived,  oy  a  uegaliop  of  the 
latter. 

The  portions  of  individual  liberty,  constituting  na- 
tional power,  .ire  the  property  of  all,  as  much  as  a  joint 
banking  or  trading  stock ;  with  this  limitation  in  liotb 
cases,  that  no  individual  c<in  withdraw  his  portion,  with- 
out se|>arating  from  the  social  firm.  What  belongs  to  all, 
is  to  be  appropriated  by  all ;  therefore  each  mnn  has  a 
right  to  a  voice  in  the  mode  of  appropriation  ;  that  is,  to 
the  Elective  Franchise. 

This  right  seems  morally  susceptible  but  of  two  limi- 
tations, crime  and  pauperism.  Crime  is  a  violation  of 
the  terms  on  which  men  unite  in  society,  mutual  advan- 
tage; it  therefore  dissolves  social  obligations. 

In  the  case  of  pauperism,  should  the  social  compact  be 
dissolved,  the  man  who  has  neither  property  nor  ability 
to  gain  his  bread,  would  have  no  portion  to  reclaim;  and, 
should  it  be  re-constructed,  he  would  have  no  portion  to 
contribute;  because  his  personal  existence  depends  on 
others. 

This  principle,  however  readily  deducible  from  Na- 
tional Sovereignty,  encountered  prejudices  even  in 
America. 

A  comparison,  however,  betwixt  the  constitutions  of 
the  Old  and  New  States,  will  show  the  progress  it  cqn* 
tinues  to  make. 

Virginia  has  the  oldest  constitution  in  the  United 
States.  '*  It  was  framed,"  says  Mr.  Jefferson,  *'  when 
we  were  new,  and  unexperienced  in  the  science  of  go- 
vernment. No  wonder  then,  that  time  and  trial  have 
discovered  very  cafiital  defects  in  it." 

The  elective  francliise  is  here  con^ned  to  persons 
having  100  acres  of  cultivated  land,  or  property  of  equal 
value.  The  consequence  is,  that  faction  prevails,  and 
the  principle  of  a  division  of  power  is  materially  neg- 
lected. 

As  might   be  expected,  "The  great  body  of  the  peo- 
'ple  do  not  concern  themselves  with  politicks ;    so  that 


^f 


i 


own; 
also  a 
o  give, 
uf   ihe 

ng  na- 
a  joiot 
tn  Itotb 
1.  witb- 
}  lo  fill, 
II  has  a 
it  is,  lo 

wo  limi- 

Uion  of 

advan- 

[ipact  be 
r  ability 
im;  and, 
^rtion  to 
ends  on 

• 

rom  N  li- 
ven   in 

itions  of 
it  cqn* 

United 

"  when 

!  ofgo- 

tal  have 

persons 
of  equal 
nils,  and 
rtlly  neg- 

jtbe  peo- 
80  tbat 


APPEiNDIX. 


303 


their  government,  though  nominally  republican,  is  in  fact 
oligitrchiciil,  ur  arialocralical."     Morse,  p.  387. 

In  iVlaasachusetls  and  Conneuliciit.  properly  to  the 
value  of  40/.  or  50/.  or  a  freehold  of  21.  or  3/.  yearly 
value,  qualifies. 

In  Rhode  Island  and  New  Hampshire,  no  qualification 
is  necessary,  except  tue  paymeni  of  laxes. 

New  York,  and  New  Jersey,  require  a  small  qualifi- 
cation of  property. 

PeiinsylvaniH,    Delaware,    Maryland,    the    Carolinas, 
Georgia,  Vermont,  Kentucky,  Tennessee,  Ohio,  and  in 
dmna,  require  no  greater  qualification  than  either  a  cer- 
tain period  of  residence,  the  payment  of  a  slule  tax,  or 
such  trifie  of  property  as  may  bar  the  right  of  paupers. 

It  is  to  be  ottserved  that  a  right  to  vote  for  Stale  re* 
presenlaiives  confers  a  right  lo  vole  for  Ihe  members  of 
the  General  government,  therefore,  in  Ihe  same  degree 
that  equality  of  rights  in  this  particular  is  preserved  or 
violated  in  the  State  governments,  it  is  also  preserved  or 
violated  in  the  General  government 

The  Elective  Franchise  represents  the  right  of  each 
citizen  to  dispose  qf  his  own  portion  of  the  pulilick  pow- 
er. His  right  to  become  the  dt^poaitary  of  the  portions 
of  others  is  represented  by  Eligibility. 

This  Right  seems  to  have  Ihe  same  natural  limits  with 
the  other :  any  other  restriction  operates  as  a  double  in- 
justice; first  on  the  giver,  flince  a  limitation  of  the  right 
to  receive,  is  equally  a  limitation  on  Ihe  right  to  bes- 
tow, and  if  carried  to  an  extreme,  destroys  it  altogether  ; 
as  for  instance,  if  none  should  be  eligible  but  persons 
above  seven  feet  high. 

Secondly:  on  the  receiver;  for  though  no  man  has  a 
right  to  power,  and  therefore  cannot  complain  if  others 
do  not  confer  it  on  him ;  yet  if  the  law  declares  him  dis- 
qualified to  receive,  on  account  of  some  contingency 
over  which  he  has  no  controll,  he  is  in  fact  deprived 
of  a  portion  of  his  natural  right. 

The  General  government  requires  as  qualifications; 
age,  residence  and  natural-born  citizenship. 

The  first  is  rather  a  delay,  than  a  destruction  of  the 
right.  A  Representative  must  be  twenty-five,  a  Senator 
thirty,  a  President  thirty-five  years  of  age  ;  and  though 
doubtless  prudence  would  commonly  adhere  lo   this  rule, 


■*      /; 


'% 


■u 


•^,! 


\    i 


o  • 


'.r^l 


304 


APPENDIX. 


[//     - 


CI- 


t       « 


*> 


1:';- 

ij.    '     - 

h  *■'  i  'J 

UK 

w4 

II 

jMd 

H 

m 

i  '  ■■ 

M\ 

1  '  ■.  * 

H 

1     .^ 

there  seems  no  adequnte  reason  that  the  national  will 
shoiilil  he  redtricted  in  the  exercise  of  a  right,  merely 
because  ii  mi$;ht  pussidly  use  it  imfirudently. 

Every  Senator,  aixi  Representative  must  he  a  resident 
in  the  state  for  which  he  is  chosen.  The  same  obser- 
vation seems  to  apply  to  this,  as  to  the  tVinner  limita- 
tion. It  is  fliore  prouahle  a  citizen  of  a  different  State 
should  be  a  (it  reiiresentative  for  any  particular  State, 
than  that  he  should  be  chosen  tty  it. 

A  representative  must  have  been  seven  years  a  ci' 
tizen,  H  Senator  nine  years,  the  President  a  natural  bora 
citizen.  Here  too  it  would  be  more  natural  to  suppose 
prudence  in  the  use,  than  to  limit  the  extent  of  the  right. 
But  though  these  restrictions  may  l)e  marked  as  devia- 
tioos  from  the  positive  rule  of  equality,  there  seems  no 
reason  to  conclude,  they  are  either  oppressive,  or  inju- 
rious in  practice.  It  is  possiltle  to  suppose  abundance  of 
limitations,  all  of  which  would  violate  the  principle,  and 
yet  not  one  of  them  operate  as   a  hardship. 

There  are  however  two  species  of  qualification,  re- 
quired by  some  of  the  Stale  Governmeuls,  which  seem 
not  equally  indifferent ;  these  are,  Property  and  Reli- 
gion. ,!■••    V  '  "■*  "         '   ■  *■   ■      ''■■ 

First  of  Property.  Almost  all  the  Old  Slates,  except 
Connecticut,*  require  a  certain  property  to  qualify  for 
the  otKces  of  Goverr.-v-,,  Senator,  and  Representative. 
The  value  of  1000/.  in  freeh«>ld  estate  is  required  by 
New  Hnmitshire,  Massachusetts,  and  North  Carolina,  in 
candidates  for  the  first.  Maryland  requires  5000/.  and 
South  Carolina  10,000/  For  the  office  of  Senat<«r  an 
avenge  of  400/.  is  requisite  in  most  of  the  Old  Stales : 
and  of  150/,  fur  a  Representaliv.e. 

.•\ll  persons  therefore  n«)t  possessing  property  to  this 
amount  lose  their  civil  right  to  receive  these  uflices  at 
the  hands  of  their  fellow  citizens.  It  is  true  that  were 
the  law  otherwise  the  practice  would  he  most  generally 
the  same.  The  natural  influence  of  wealth  will  be  always 
felt,   nor  would  electors    l)e  disposed    to   degrade  them- 

« 
*  By  the  constitution  of  Connecticut  all  Freemen  are  eligi- 
ble to  all  offices,     i  am  ant  acquamtt'd   with  the  regulation  of 
the  Western  States    ii  this  pariinilar.  bat  I  doubt  if  they  re- 
quire any  otlier  qualiticatiuu  than  tiie  people's  choice.  » 


APPENDIX. 


306 


•elves,  and  hazard  the  puhlick  business,  by  choosing 
such  men  as  from  thf'ir  stations  in  life  could  hardly  be 
supposed  ca|»ahle  of  ti.c  inrormallon  and  leisure  neces- 
sary for  transacting  it ;  but  thf  mare  likely  these  reasons 
are  to  prevail  the  less  cause  is  flierr  for  euforcing  them 
by  a  constitutional  precept,  eapecially  by  one  which  im- 
plies a  falsehood,  in  sup|)osin£  a  natural  connexion  be- 
twixt properly  and   merit,  or  trusl  worthiness. 

The  qualification  of  property  seems  therefore  a  devia- 
tion from  the   principle  of  equality "*"  in  civil  rights. 

If,  however,  the  quHli6cations  of  Property  be  not  free 
from  objection,  still  less  is  that  of  Religion. 

The  constitutions  of  New  Hampshire,  Massachusetts, 
Vermont,  New  Jersey,  Pennsylvania,  and  the  Caroiiuas, 
requ'  profession  of  belief  in  Christianity,  and  several 
of  th^m  limit  the  species  of  it  to  Protestantism.  An 
act  of  the  Virginia  Assembly  requires  a  belief  of  the 
Trinity  in  Unity. 

Here  we  have  a  right,  subjected  to  a  contingency, 
over  which  the  disqualitied  person  has  no  control.  If  the 
evidence  of  certain  doctrines  be  insufficient  to  establish 
his  belief,  doubting  is  nut  a  matter  of  option;  but  he 
may  pretend  to  believe,  and  a  legislative  premium  is  thus 
oflFered  to  hypocrisy  :— and  for  what  purpose?  To  ex- 
clude Intidels  from  offices  of  trust. — But  if  the  people 
perceive  them  to  he  unworthy,  they  will  not  elect  them, 
and  if  they  do  not  perceive  this,  why  are  Electors  to  be 
deprived  of  the  right  to  confer,  as  well  as  Intidels  to  re- 
ceive ?  The  judgment  of  Eligibility  can  properly  exist 
no  where  but  in  the  breasts  of  the  choosers.  It  is  true 
these  may  err,  because,  being  human,  they  are  fallible, 
but  they  are  liable  to  errour  only,  whereas  legislatures 
which  destroy  rights,  where  no  olfence  has  been  commit- 
ted, are  guilty  of  injustice,  as  well  as  errour. 


1 


\ 


1 

4i 


.1 


f 


*  It  is  not  intended  to  advocate  the  idea  of  tiestowing  pow- 
er on  the  lowest  member  of  the  rommimity ;  but  it  seems 
that  the  end  would  be  equally  answen-d  without  violating  the 
principle.  In  Kn!i;land  the  qualification  for  a  member,  though 
not  great  for  a  w«althy  <!OiMit'y,  proves  so  inronvenient,  that  it 
is  found  necessary  to  evade  it  by  no  very  honest  tiction. 

39 


il 


K, 


ik 

- 1  1  r* 

)'i; 


;  v« 


,.v  ■ 


c^ ^.- *  r^^-iVS^'Ti 


'M6 


APPENDIX. 


\l 


I 


This  consideration  naturally  leads  to  that  of  the  moral 
principle  next  enumerated  by  Mr.  Taylor,  Religious 
Freedom. 

3.  Religious  Freedom  is  an  inherent  civil  right,  be- 
cause, tirst,  men  could  never  surrender  that  dominion 
over  their  consciences,  which  ihey  du  not  possess  them- 
selves; and  secondly,  because  erruur  in  religion  is  no 
injury  done  to  soeiely,  ami  is  therefore  nut  cognizalde  by 
its  laws  :  yet,  from  the  days  »»f  the  Pythian  oracle,  to 
the  present  lime,  man  has  continued  to  employ  the  voice 
of  Heaven  (o  govern  man,  and  pretended,  by  legal  in- 
terference, to  regulate  his  communion  with  the  Deity. 
The  impiety  of  this  attempt  naturally  gives  rise  to  a 
suspicion  that  the  establirhers  of  state  religions  believe 
in  none.  "When  a  government,"  says  Mr.  Taylor, 
"usurps  the  power  of  legislating  betwixt  God  and  man, 
it  proves  itself  to  be  an  atheist,  if  it  believed  there 
was  a  God,  it  would  be  conscious  of  the  vice  and  folly 
of  m.iking  tme.  If  it  believed  there  was  any  revehtion, 
j^  it  would  see  the  vice  and  folly  of  construing  it  by  laws 
which  are   not  revelation."  p.   450. 

A  state  religion  must  be  admitted  to  be  a  convenient 
engine,  for  the  f.v  to  govern  the  many.  A  salaried 
Priesthood  exercises  over  minds  the  same  despotism  that 
a  standing  army  exercises  over  liodies;  it  enforces  im- 
plicit 'r'jedience  to  the  dictates  of  one  creed,  both  in  re- 
ligion and  politicks,  and  thrusts  (he  schisinatick  into 
outer  darkness  in  both  worlds.  Were  it  sincere  in  its 
belief,  it  could  not  fail  to  shrink  from  the  alisiirdily  of 
assuming  to  itself  the  interjiretittion  of  the  decrees  of 
Heaven,  and  of  pretending  to  conline,  within  ihe  span 
of  its  own  narrow  intellect,  the  justice  and  mercy  of 
Omnipotent  Goodness. 

Should  we  examine  the  reasons  allepied  in  support  of 
a  Legal  Iteligion,  we  slialt  lind  thrrn  all  hoiiomed,  either 
on  fraud  or  iinpicly.  A  religion  eslaliiit^iied  by  law.  is 
one  which  the  people  are  citinpelled  to  pay  for.  and  pro- 
hiliiied  from  denying.  "I  do  not  li»lieve,"  (should  a 
recusant  say,)  "the  iloelrines  your  church  leiieiies,  yet 
you  compel  me  to  contribiiie  lo  its  supiiort,  and  punish 
me  il' I  deny  its  dogin.is  :  for  whose  |H-otil  do  you  ihut 
UgiAl.ite  '/  cerliiiiily  noi  lor  mine,  at  leiiHt  in  lliia  ^^orltl." 
It  18  for  your  eternal  advnilage,"  (Hpiits  Kslalilislied 
iteligion,)  "  you  should  be  thus  punibliid  in  pocket,  and 


,11    • 


APPENDIX. 


3or 


ie  moral 
Eleligiuus 

right,  be- 
ilomiuioa 
•88  thfin- 
«>n  18  no 
izaltle  by 
jrHcle,  to 
tlie  voice 

Ifgal  in- 
le  Deity. 
rise  to  a 
9  believe 
,  THylor, 
and  man, 
kreii   there 

Hnd  folly 
evelation, 
t  by  laws 

onvenient 

i  SHlaried 

tism   that 

iurces  im- 

Dlh   in  re- 

itick  into 

crc  in  its 

turdily   of 

It'Crers  of 

the  8|))tn 

mercy    of 

iipport  of 
led,  either 
ly   law.  is 

and  |>ro- 
[eliould  a 
leJieB,  yet 
]d  punish 

you  I  hut 
U  \\orUl." 
Ilrtlilished 

;kLt,  and 


restrained  from  uttering  your  disbelief."  •'  Upon  what 
authority  do  you  aftirm,  that  tormenting  me  here,  will 
profit  me  hereafter  ?"  *'  Upon  authority  which  is  infallible  ; 
that  of  the  word  of  God."  "  Not  according  to  my  in- 
terpretation of   His  wonl." "  But  according  to  mine, 

and  mine  is  the  on!}'  right  one.'' 

If  this  were  sincerely  uttered,  it  would  be  impiety; 
but  the  personal  advantage  of  the  victim  is  now  rarely 
urged,  except  by  the  Holy  Office ;  the  grounil  most  ge- 
nerally assumed,  is,  the  interest  of  society,  which  re- 
quires, say  poiiiici.-tns  and  priests,  that  there  should  be  a 
Stale  Religion,  and  penalties  for  recus;<nts.  The  ques- 
tion is  here  beiiged  upon  three  points.  First,  Tliat  there 
would  be  no  religion,  unless  the  law  established  one. 
Secondly,  that  the  one  established  is  the  true : — and 
Thirdly,  That  the  interest  of  society  requires  the  sacri- 
fice of  individual  rights  ;  the  preservation  of  which  is  the 
object  of  society. 

First. — Keligious  worship  is  a  mental  act,  commoidy 
but  not  necessarijy  evinced,  by  certain  outward  signs  of 
devotion.  A  mental  act  is  no  subject  of  legisl'ilion, 
which  can  neither  create  nor  uncreate  it :  but  it  can 
create  the  oiiiw-ird  signs;  that  is.  it  can  create  hypo- 
crites, but  not  worsliipiters  It  pretends  to  legislate  for 
the  Deity,  Ity  doing  for  him  what  he  has  thought  un- 
necessary to  be  done;  namely,  the  forcing  men  within 
the  iiale  of  a  particular  church.  The  f.icl  too,  is  in 
strikintr  conlratliction  to  this  pretendetl  necessity.  There 
is  more  religion   in  the  United  States  than   in  England,* 

*  Rhode  Island  presents  a  strikina;  proof  of  the  little  real 
necessity  there  is  for  the  cstahlishnieiit  of  religion  by  law. 
••Not  only  does  the  constitution  of  this  state  reject  every 
species  of  li>gal  establislunent,  but,"  says  Mr.  I\Jor<.p,  "a  pe- 
culiaritv  which  di<itingiii»>hes  this  state  from  every  other  pro- 
testnnt  country  in  the  known  world,  is.  that  no  contract  form- 
ed by  the  minister  with  his  peophj  I'or  his  salary,  is  v.ilid  in 
law.  So  that  ministers  arc  dependant  wholly  on  the  inic);:rity 
of  tlin  people  I'or  their  support:  since  timir  s:il!iri»'s  Arc  not 
recoverable  hy  law  It  onjjhl  in  jusuce.  Iiowi-vcr.  to  l>c  ob- 
served, that  the  clergy,  in  general,  are  liherally  niaint,iin*'d ; 
and  none  who  merit  it  hav«>  reason  to  complain  fur  want  of 
•upport."    American  Uougrapliy,  p.  200. 


} 


& 


i; 


,  *" 


:^ 


n. 


i^  808 


APPENDIX. 


and  more  in  England   than  in  Italy.    The  closer  the 
monopoly,  the  less  abundant  the  commodity. 

Secondly. — Why  does  the  law  com|>el  me  to  contri- 
bute  to  mnintain  a  particular  church  ?  Because  the  doc- 
trines of  such  church  are  true.  Are  there  mure  ciiurrhes 
in  this  predicament,  or  is  the  nationd  church  the  only 
true  one?  If  there  be  more,  I  may  as  conscientiously 
adhere  to  one  of  these  as  to  the  le^al  one.  Why  then 
must  I  contribute  to  the  latter,  of  which  I  am  not  a 
member?  If  1  follow  truth  the  penalty  cannot  he  for 
the  good  of  my  soul,  and  it  will  hardly  be  pretended  it 
is  for  the  good  of  my  pocket. 

If  the  national  church  be  the  only  true  one,  I  ought 
indeed  to  maintain  it ;  but  we  are  at  issue  upon  this 
point ;  How  shall  it  be  decided  ?  By  argument. — But 
why  then  must  I  pay  before  1  am  convinced  !  By  au- 
thority.— If  the  church  be  Protestant,  this  argument  des- 
troys its  own  rights,  for  it  was  estahlis'ied  uiion  reason 
in  contratMction  to  authority.  Well  then,  y<»u  shall  pay, 
because  we  who  are  of  the  Established  Church  are  more 
numerous  than  you,  and  find  it  convenient  you  should 
contribute  to  ease  us  of  our  burden. 

There  would  be  candour  in  replying  thus,  and  candour 
of  any  sort  is  preferable  to  preaching  piety,  and  prac- 
tising injustice. 

Thirdly. — The  puhlick  good  in  matters  of  religion  as 
well  as  politicks,  is  frequently  urged  as  a  reason  fur  sa- 
crificing individuals.  The  publick  good  requires  a  slate 
religion,  a  state  religion  cannot  l)e  supported,  except  all 
be  compelled  to  contribute  ;  ergo,  &c. — The  consequence 
implies  the  schismatick  minority  must  contribute  with 
the  rest. 

Experience  enables  the  United  States  to  deny  the 
major  of  this  proposition;  Religion  both  exists  and  thrives 
^without  a  Legal  Establishment.  It  cannot  indeed  be 
moulded  into  an  instrument  of  alate-crnft. 

The  General  government  adheres  strictly  to  the  prin* 
ciple  o(  freedom.  It  is  however  violated  by  the  tests  of 
some  State  governments ;  by  which  Jews  and  conscieu- 
tious  infidels  are  excluded  from  office. 


.1    \ 


:# 


APPENDIX. 


809 


V 


The  State  ofVirginia  is,  I  believe,  the  only  one,  which 
by  an  act  of  Assembly  of  1705,  adds  penalties  to  disquali- 
fications''^ 

It  has  been  asserted,  that  disqualifications  are  not 
penalties,  because  offices  are  not  matter  of  right,  but  of 
grace.* 

It  h  true,  as  h»s  been  already  ol>sprved,  that  power  or 
office  is  not  a  matter  of  ri(i;ht,  but  iiidqualification  destroys 
bo|h  the  right  to  give  and  the  right  to  receive ;  the  latter 
of  vvliioh  is  as  truly  inherent  as  the  former.  {Fid.  supra, 
p.  303.) 

4.  Freedom  of  Inquiry  is  another  inherent  right, 
whether  in  matters  religious  or  (lolilicHl. 

lieg.il  reelraiiit  upon  the  freedom  of  religious  diecussion 
is  founded  U|ioii  two  absurdities;  one,  that  the  Deity 
needs  human  aid  to  vindicate  his  name;  the  oiher,  that 
man  is  competenl  to  vindicate  it.  God  visits  the  atheist 
with  uo  peculiar  punishment  in  this  life,  therefore  man 
thinks  it  necessary  he  should  legislate  in  the  place  of 
God.  "  But  we  punish  for  examples'  sake,  says  Perseeu- 
tion ;  we  burn  him  and  his  books  to  prevent  the  contagion 
from  sfireading." 

Is  the  example  then  so  seducing,  or  the  doctrine  so 
convincing  ?  Neither; — no  man  can  be  an  atheist,  unless 
he  be  an  idiot  or  a  knave.  Well  then,  for  the  8<<ke  of 
destroying  an  example  which  none  but  rogues  will  follow, 
and  crushing  doctrines  whii-h  will  pursuade  none  but 
idiots,  you  set  an  example  of  cruelty  and  impiety  which 
you  know  all  generations  have  followed. 

But  if  the  highest  species  of  irreligion  he  not  a  fit 
matter  for  persecution,  still  less  are  those  differences  of 
opinion  denominated  Heresy  and  Infidelity.  1  have 
opened. the  volume  of  nature  before  your  eyes,  says  the 
Deity,  and  permitted  you  to  draw  your  own  conclusions. 
You  shall  read  in  my  book,  says  Kstablished  Religion, 
and  believe  all  it  contains,  under  pain  of  persecution  in 
this  life,  and  damnation  in  the  next. 


■»  ■' 


!  ^ 


*  I  imagine  this  act  in  practically  a  dead  letter;  its  existence 
liowover  violates  the  principle,  vid.  Jeflierson's  notes.  Query 
17.  p.  234.  edit.  viii. 

"^  Vide  the  1st  vol.  of  WarburtoB's  *' Divine  Legation." 


II 


-I' 


♦ 


:) 

J 


I 


310 


APPENDIX. 


Il       '.      M  ! 


I 


!t'    ''Si 


/^ 


■'i 


A  political  system  which  thus  substitutes  the  outcry  of 
pride  and  ignorHnce  for  the  voice  of  nature  is  tmilt  on 
the  principles  ol'  force  and  fraud. 

There  is  no  restraint  on  political  discussion  in  Ameri- 
ca. This  is  a  triumph,  both  in  principle  and  practice, 
which  belongs  to  the  Democatick  party. 

In  the  year  1778,  during  Mr  Adams'  administration, 
a  sedition  law  was  past,  by  the  second  section  of  which, 
the  nriting,  printing,  or  publishing,  any  false,  scandalous, 
and  malicious  writing,  against  the  Government  of  the 
United  States,  either  House  of  Congress,  or  the  President, 
"  with  intent  to  <lefame  and  bring  either  of  them  into  con- 
temi>t,"  WHS  made  pimishalile  by  fine  and  imfirisonment. 

The  author  of  the  ''  Olive  Branch,"  commenting  in  fa- 
vour of  this  law,  observes,  that  it  created  *' a  senseless 
and  disgraceful  clamour,"  in  which  however,  "  were  en- 
gaged vast  numi)ersof  the  best  and  m  ist  intelligent  mem- 
bers of  the  community."  He  then  subjoins;  "It  would 
be  uncandid  not  to  slate,  that  the  trials  under  Ibis  act,  for 
libels  against  the  President,  and  as  far  as  my  recollection 
serves  me,  against  some  of  the  other  publick  functionaries, 
were  managed  with  very  considerable  rigour;  and  from 
the  abuse  of  the  law,  tentled  to  give  an  appearance  of 
propriety  and  justice  to  the  clamour  against  it  The  cases 
of  Thomas  Cooper,  and  Matthew  Lyon,  E»qrs.,  who  were 
both  treated  with  remarkable  severity,  excited  a  high  de- 
gree of  symitatliy  in  the  publick  mind.  Of  the  two  cases, 
it  may  be  justly  said  ;  summumjus,  summa  injuria^''  p.  55. 
7lh  ed.  Mr.  Carey  concludes  by  observing,  that  a  neg- 
lect on  the  part  of  Mr.  JelTerson,  to  procure  the  re-enact- 
ment of  this  lawi  *'  casts  an  indelible  stain  on  his  ad- 
ministration." 

This  statement,  taken  altogether,  forms  an  invaluable 
commentary  on  the  justice  and  wisdom  of  libel  and  se- 
dition laws. 

It  has  ever  been  the  policy  of  the  Fed sra lists  to 
"strengthen  the  hands  of  GovernmtMU  :"  no  measure  can 
be  imagined  more  elfectual  for  this  purpose,  than  a  law 
which  gifts  the  ruling  powers  with  infallilitlity  ;  but  no 
souuer  was  it  enacted,  than  it   revealed    its    hostility    to 


nf  ,f 


''W* 


APPENDIX. 


311 


Icry  of 
uilt  on 

Araeri- 
raclice, 

ttration, 

which, 
ridalous, 

of  the 
•eeulent, 
rito  con- 
iment. 
g  in  fa- 
lenselesfl 
ivere  en- 
nl  mena- 
It  would 
}  act,  for 
ollection 
tioiiaries, 
mill  from 
iraiice  of 
rheotses 
who  were 

hifijh  »le- 
\vo  cases, 
'  p.  55. 

it  a  neg- 

re-eiiact- 
his  ad- 

n  valuable 
and  se- 

k\\i\»  to 
Uiire  can 
Mt  n  law 
Itut  no 
ktiUty    to 


the   principles  of  the   American  system,  by  generating 
oppression  under  the  cloak  of  defending  social  order.'*' 

If  (here  ever  was  a  period  when  circumslances  seemed 
to  Justify  what  are  called  euergelick  measures,  it  was 
during  (he  administrations  of  Mr.  Jetlerson  and  his  suc- 
cessor. 

A  disastrous  war  began  to  rage,  not  only  on  the  fron- 
tiers, but  in  the  very  penetralia  of  the  republick  To 
oppose  veteran  troops,  (he  ablest  generals,  and  the  largest 
fleets  in  the  world  ;  the  American  government  had  raw 
recruits,  ollicers  who  had  never  seen  an  enemy,  half  adozea 
frigates,  and  a  population  unaccustomed  to  sacrifices,  and 
impatient  of  taxation. 

To  crown  these  disadvantages,  a  most  importnnt  section 
of  the  Union,  the  New  England  States,  openly  set  up  the 
standard  of  separation  and  rebellion  ;  a  Convention  sat  for 
the  express  purpose  of  thwarting  the  measures  of  Govern- 
ment, while  the  press  and  pulpit  thundered  every  species 
of  (lenunciation  against  whoever  should  assist  their  own 
country  in  tbe  hour  of  danger.f 

All  this  was  the  work,  not  of  Jacobins,  and  Democrats, 
but  of  the  staunch  friends  of  relisfion  and  social  order,  who 
had  Iteen  so  zealously  attached  to  the  Government,  while 
it  was  administered  by  their  own  parly,  that  they  suffered 
not  the  popular  breath  "  to  visit  the  President's  breech 
too  roughly.'' 

'*'  In  New  Jersey,  a  man  was  found  guilty  and  pnnislied  un- 
der this  law,  "for  the  simple  wi^h  that  the  wadding  of  a  gun 
discharged  on  a  festival  day,  had  made  an  inroad  into,  or  sing- 
ed the  poNteriors  of  Mr.  Adams."     "  Olive  Branch,"  p.  89. 

t  In  Boston,  associations  were  entered  into  Cor  the  purpose 
of  preventing  the  tilling  up  of  pLOveninunt  loans;  individuals 
disponed  tu  subscribe  were  obliged  to  do  il  in  secret,  and  con- 
ceal their  names,  as  if  tie  action  had  iieen  dishonest.  Vide 
"Ulive  Branch,"  p.  ISO?.  At  the  same  time  iniiuensc  runs 
were  made  by  the  Boston  Banks,  on  IIiom;  of  the  central  and 
southern  states,  while  the  sptnie  tliiis  drhiiied.  was  transmit- 
ted to  Canada,  in  payment  I'ur  Mim^^lrd  >:oods,  and  British 
government  hills,  wlii<'li  were  drawn  in  Quebec,  and  disposed 
of  in  great  numbers  on  adviinta<<:co<is  terms  to  ninnied  men  in 
the  Stales.  i\lr.  Henry's  mission  is  the  best  proof  of  llie  re- 
suit  an!  icipated  by  our  Government,  iVoni  these  proceedings  in 
New  England. 


•*A 


n, 


i 


II 


.  1 

■  i 


i 


«« 


312 


APPENDIX. 


M  I 


.'.'    1 1 


A 


m 


^  .iy 


\ 


:  t 


The  course  pursued,  both  by  Mr.  JeiTerson,  and  Mr. 
Mulison,  Ihroughoui  (bis  season  of  <ii(Iiniiliy,  m<^rits  the 
gratitmle  of  their  country,  and  the  imiUtion  of  alt  govern- 
ments pretending  to  be  free. 

80  far  were  they  from  demanding  any  extraordinary 
powers  from  Congress,  that  they  did  not  even  enforce  to 
their  full  extent,  those  with  which  they  were  by  the  con- 
Blitulion  invested. 

The  process  of  reasoning,  on  which  they  probably  act- 
ed, may  be  thus  stated.  The  majority  of  the  nation  is 
with  us,  because  the  war  is  national.  The  interests  of  a 
minority  suffer,  and  self-interest  is  clamourous  when  in- 
jured. It  carries  its  opposition  to  an  extreme,  iucousis- 
tent  with  its  political  duty.  Shall  we  leave  it  an  undis- 
turbed career  of  faction,  or  seek  to  put  it  down,  with  libel 
and  sedition  laws  ?  In  the  first  case,  it  w  ill  grow  bold 
from  imjtunity,  its  proceedings  will  ()e  more  and  mure 
outrageous ;  but  every  step  it  takes  to  thwart  us,  will  be  a 
step  in  favour  of  the  enemy,  and  consequently,  so  much 
ground  lost  in  publick  opinion  :  but  as  publick  opinion  is 
the  only  instrument  l)y  which  a  minority  cau  convert  a 
majority  to  ill  vjews,  impunity,  by  revealing  its  motives, 
affords  the  surest  chance  of  defeating  its  intent.  In  the 
latter  case,  we  quit  the  ground  of  reason,  to  take  that  of 
force :  we  give  the  factious  the  advantage  of  seeming 
persecuted  :  by  repressing  intemperate  discussion,  we  con- 
fess ourselves  liable  to  he  injured  by  it.  If  we  seek  to 
shield  our  refiutation  by  a  libel-law,  we  acknowledge, 
either  that  our  conduct  wilt  not  bear  investigation,  or, 
that  the  people  are  inrapnble  of  distinguishing  betwixt 
truth  and  fnlsehood ;  l)Ut  fur  a  popular  Government  to  im- 
pcHcli  the  sanity  of  the  nation's  judgment,  is  to  overthrow 
the  iiillars  of  its  own  elevation. 

The  event  triumphantly  proved  the  correctness  of  this 
reasoning;  the  Federalists  awoke  from  the  delirium  of 
factious  intoxication,  and  found  themselves  covered  with 
coiitem.'t  and  shime.  Their  country  had  been  in  danger, 
and  they  gloried  m  her  distress :  she  had  ex|)osed  herself 
to  privations,  from  which  they  had  extracted  profit :  in  her 
triumphs  they  hxd  no  part,  except  that  of  having  mourned 
over,  and  deitreciaied  them.  Since  the  war,  Federalism 
has  beeq  scarcely  heard  of. 


APPENDIX. 


313 


\l 


id  Mr. 

rits  the 
govtra- 

rtlinary 
force  to 
he  con- 

hly  act- 
ation  is 
E>sts  ol'  a 
vhen  in- 
iucousis- 
in  undis- 
vith  libel 
row  bold 
iiid  mure 
will  be  a 
,  so  much 
jpinioD  is 
convert  a 
1  motives, 
t.     In  the 
ke  thai  of 
'  seeming 
I,  we  coo- 
e  seek  to 
nowledge, 
at  ion,  or, 
betwixt 
nt  to  im- , 
iverthrow 

^88  or  this 
;lirium  of 
Itred  with 
^n  danger, 
Bd  herself 
it :  in  her 
mourned 
[ederalism 


I  proceed  (o  consider  (he  principle  of  iibel-laws,  as  set 
up  RgHiust  freedom  of  political  discussion. 

The  lantriiaj^e  of  despotism  is  honest  and  consistent  on 
this  point.  In  Turkey  she  says,  You,  the  people,  have  no 
busin^'ss  with  government,  hut  to  obey  it ;  with  religion, 
but  to  l)elleve  if.  The  Koran  suffices  both  for  your  faith, 
and  moral  conduct ;  you  h»ve  therefore  no  business  with 
discussion,  except  it  be  to  discuss  the  arching  of  a  Circas- 
siit'i's  eye  brows. — Sleep,  and  smoke  In  quiet;  we  answer 
for  your  souls  and  bodies. 

Libel-law  in  a  free  gorernment,  says;  Being  freemen 
you  have  a  right  to  discuss  the  conduct  of  your  govern- 
ment, whether  it  be  right  or  wrong;  provided  always,  you 
conclude  that  it  is  right,  otherwise  you  lend  to  hriug  it 
into  contempt,  and  therefore  shall  be  punished. — But  it  is 
only  intemperate  discussion  we  object  to,  say  politicians  : 
so  far  from  blaming,  we  are  friends  to  a  moderate  op|)osi- 
tion. — Yes,  provided  it  injure  you.  neither  in  protit,  power, 
nor  re|)Utalion.  You  would  be  tickletl,  not  wounded  A 
well  regulated  oppositifui  preserves  a  shew  of  freedom. 
Two  factions  are  struggling  for  place ;  the  Outs  blame  all 
the  measures  of  the  Ins,  but  they  would  not  therefore  di- 
minish the  perquisites  of  the  places  they  hope  one  day  to 
fill. 

Discussion  may  attack  Persons,  or  Principles. 
The  American  constitution,  by  contining  treason  to 
overt  acts,  leaves  the  utterance  of  opinions  free,  however 
they  may  tend  to  bring  the  constitution  into  contempt. — 
Why  ?  Because  discussion  being  free,  it  supposes  truth 
will  prevail. 

If  therefore  the  constitution  could  be  shewn  to  be  bad, 
it  seems  more  rational  to  amend,  or  change  it,  than  to 
punish  those  who  reveal  its  defects.  Libel  law  supposes 
either  that  falsehood  is  in  fair  fight,  more  potent  than 
truth,  or  that  political  systems  may  [luasess  the  tirst  attri- 
bute of  the  Deity,  perfection. 

They  set  up  a  political  idol,  and  say;  "  Behold  your 
God;  bow  down  to  it  :  you  may  tind  fault  with  the  trap- 
pings of  its  throne, or  the  pavement  beneath  its  feet;  or 
even,  provided  it  be  done  tenderly,  with  the  ministers  of 
its  altar,  but  beware  of  proclaiming  that  it  is  Itself  the 
work  of  hands,  wood  and  stone."  *  . 

40 


»  > 


■«(■ 


314 


APPENDIX. 


^1 


■% 


!•'■  :i 


-  A  Constitution  which  permits  the  free  examination  of 
itself,  falls  into  an  absurdity,  when  it  passes  a  I'lw  (u  shield 
its  agents  from  a  similar  Creedum.  It  is  still  nure  absurd 
to  erect  a  man  into  a  God,  than  a  constitution;  it  is  hIso 
more  dangerous,  for  the  living  idut  will  not  bo  long  satis- 
fied with  empty  prostrations ;  it  must  be  fed  with  lives 
and  property. 

Is  therefore  every  species  of  calumny  to  be  poured  out 
against  a  government,  without  restraint  or  punishment  ? 
Calumnies  against  the  theory  of  a  government,  injure  no 
one;  nor  the  government  itself,  except  it  be  founded  on 
evil  moral  principles.  The  evidence  of  facts  would  bear 
it  out,  even  were  there  not  more  persons  interested  in  its 
defence  thin  in  its  attack.  The  annals  of  the  world  offer 
not  a  single  instance  of  a  good  government  overthrown, 
or  brought  into  contempt  by  discussion.  Mankind  are  not 
too  prone  to  change  habits,  even  of  the  worst  descrip* 
tion  ;  they  have  gone  on  for  ages  and  centuries  enduring 
tyranny  and  oppression,  for  no  belter  reason  than  be- 
cause their  fathers  endured  them  before.  Libel-laws  are, 
indeed,  essential  to  the  security  of  governments  founded 
on  force  and  fraud,  as  masks  and  daggers  protect  thieves 
and  cut  throats. 

The  persons  administering  a  government,  cannot  re- 
quire greater  immunities  for  themselves  than  the  Constitu- 
tion claims  for  itself.     "  Reverence  for  a  magistrate,  (says 
Mr.  Taylor,)  is  frequently  contempt  for  a  coustitulion." 
He   thinks   himself  unjustly  assailed ;    shall  he  therefore 
have  a  law  for  his  protection,  which  he  may  convert  in- 
to an  instrument  of  oppression  ?  If  the  situation  he  fills  will 
neither  enable  him  to  defy  calumny,  nor  remunerate  him 
for  its  injustice,  he  is  free  to   return  to  the   walks  of  pri- 
vate life,  and  claim,  as  an  individual,  that  legal  protec- 
tion for  his  character,  which  the  constitution  affords  him, 
but  let  not  ministers    be   gratified  with   the   sacrifice  of 
inherent  rights  to  protect  their  own  crimes  and   follies. 
"Caligula-8  appointment  of  his  horse  to  the  consulship, 
is  both  an  illustration  and  a  mockery  of  the  ideas  of  na- 
tional sovereignty  without  the  freedom  of  utterance ;  and 
a   nation,  the  members  of  which    can  only    speak    and 
write    as    Government    pleases,  is  exactly  this  consular 
sovereign."     Taylor,  p.  472. 


APPENDIX. 


31  .'i 


ation  of 
iu  shield 
t  absurd 
it  is  hIso 
Dg;  satis- 
itli  lives 

tured  out 
stiment  ? 
injure  no 
nded   on 
juld  bear 
ted  in  its 
orld  offer 
jrt  brown, 
\  are  not 
.  desc  rip- 
enduring 
(ban  be- 
■laws  are, 
I  founded 
it  thieves 

annot  re- 
Constilu- 
ate,  (says 
ititution." 
therefore 
>nvert  in- 

aits  will 
erate  him 
(B  of  pri- 

protec- 
brds  him, 
critice  of 
follies, 
nsulship, 
sas  of  na> 
nee ;  and 
eak    and 

consular 


5.— Division  of  Power  is  the  vital  spirit  of  the  Ameri- 
can system  :  convert  it  into  accumulation,  and  all  other  ^ 
securities  perish ;  preserve  this,  and  they  can  never  be 
altogether  extinguished.  . 

Man  is   feeble   when  conlined  to  his  own  individual 

means ;  Power  enables  him  to  use  the  strength  of  others  ; 

.it  is  therefore  the  i.-adiest  instrument  for  gratifying  his 

own  desires  at  the  expense  of  others,  and  ranks  foremost 

in  the  class  of  vicious  excitements. 

Is  this  vicious  attritiute  of  power  capable  of  being 
neutralized ;  or  must  a  nation,  in  framing  its  government 
necessarily  submit  its  neck  to  a  yoke  ?  Alonarchy,  aristo- 
cracy, democracy,  and  the  system  of  orders  are  all  so 
many  memorials  of  the  efforts  mankind  have  made  to  free 
themselves  from  the  dilemma  of  an!\rchy  and  desttulisra. 

They  have  all  lieen  uiifoitiinate,  for  Ihey  have  all  work- 
ed hy  different  roads  to  the  same  end,  namely,  the  substi- 
tution of  the  interests  of  a  minority  for  those  of  the  majo- 
rity ;  bin  they  have  all  this  comn^on  quality,  concentra- 
tion of  power  in  the  hands  of  a  few. 

The  American  system,  ileeming  the  nation  the  fountain 
of  power,  considers  it  altsnrd  to  collect  it  a  second  time 
into  reservoirs,  which  are  not  the  nation;  and  therefore 
distributes  it  in  streams  sufficient  only  to  give  motion  to 
the  several  engines  of  government. 

The  principle  of  Distribution  ni;iy  lie  thus  stated  : — 
Power  is  a  virions  excitement,  liecause  it  impels  its  posseS' 
8or  to  gratify  himsf^lf  iii  the  expense  of  others ;  the  greater 
the  powej",  the  greatt:r  the  possible  gratihcation  :  concen- 
tration therefore  affords  the  greatest   possible  excitement. 
But  as  the  increase  of  power  increases  its  vicions  cpialities, 
to  will  its  diminution  diminish  them  :  diminish  it  theivfore 
to  such  a  degree  that  it  is  unable   to  extract  any  selfish 
gratihcations  at  the  expense  of  others,  and  it  becomes  di- 
vested of  its  evil  moral  ipiality,  and  capable  of  being  em- 
ployed to  the  advantage  of  the  people.     Hut  as  govern- 
ment represents  all  the  portions  of  individual  liberty  sa- 
crificed for  the  good  of  society,  its  power  must,  in  the  ag- 
gregate, suffice  to  oppress  individuals,  unless  some  expe- 
dient he   hit  upon,  to  counteract  this  effect.     This  expe-    a 
dient  is  Division.    The  American  people,  by  sacrificing  a^^ 
much  less  portion  of  its   freedom   than  other  nations,  or 
rather  by  retaining  in  its  own  hands,  powers,  which  other 


i  i 


(, 


-  *■ 


t 


816 


APPENDIX. 


nations  have  commuted  (o  their  Governments,  has  sought 
in  diminution  a  method  of  counteracting  the  evil  effects  of 
power :  it  employs  Division  for  the  same  purpose  by  in- 
vesting the  General,  and  State  governments  respectively 
with  a  portion  of  (tower,  which  portion  is  ag.iin  subdivid- 
ed in  each  among  several  agencies,  entitled  Executive, 
Legislative,  and  Judicial  branches. 

The  test  of  the  success  of  these  expedients,  must  be 
looked  for  in  the  ex|ierience  the  nation  possesses  of  the 
ability  of  one,  or  all  of  them,  to  extract  individual  grati- 
fication at  the  publick  expense. 

The  portion  ol  power  allotted  to  the  General  govern- 
ment naturally  claims  the  first  place  in  this  examination. 

In  1798  Virginia,  and  Kentucky  framed  resolutions 
expressive  of  an  idea  (hat  the  General  Government  had 
evinced  a  spirit  of  encroHchment,  'Mending  to  consolidate 
the  States  into  one  sovereignty."*  The  political  prin- 
ciples of  the  Federalists  are  acknowledged  to  have  this 
tendency.  It  is  from  their  disposition  to  8tren<>;lhen  the 
General  Government,  under  the  idea  of  strengthening  lI*o 
union,  that  they  first  obtained,  or  assumed  the  name  of 
Federalist. 

We  accordingly  find,  in  the  executive  power  of  tiie 
General  Government,  a  degree  of  accumulation  not  quite 
consistent  with  the  principle  of  division,  observed  by  the 
State  Governments.  "  The  goveruours  of  nine  States^ 
comprising  a  majority  of  the  people,  are  annually  chosen, 
and  are  ineligible  after  certain  terms ;  those  of  the  other 
states  are  chosen  for  two  and  three  years  cne  excepted, 
and  a  multitude  of  other  imfiortant  differences  exist,  be- 
tween the  modification  of  executive  power,  under  the 
General  and  State  constitutions."  Taylor,  p.  169.  Now 
if  the  Governors  of  thirteen  States  have  for  thirty  years, 
found  their  limited  powers  sufficient  for  executive  purpo- 
ses, it  would  follow,  that  those  of  the  General  Executive, 
must  be  more  than  sufficient. 

The  power  of  the  President  has  been,  seemingly  with 
justice,  compared  with  that  of  the  King  of  England ;  the 
difference  consists  less  in  the  power  each  of  them  pos> 
Besses,  than  in  that  which  the  (leople  of  either  nation  re- 

*  These  Resolutions  were  framed  by  Mr.  Madison  and  Mr, 
Je^erson.  , 


APPENDIX. 


3ir 


18  sought 
effeclB  of 
e  by  in- 
lectively 
siihdivid- 
Kecutive, 

must  be 
>s  of  the 
ual  grati- 

govera- 
liiiation. 
•solutions 
nent  had 
tnsolidate 
ical  prin- 
iiave  this 
;then  the 
ening  tbo 

name  of 

er  or  the 
not  quite 
edby  the 
e  States, 
chosen, 
16  other 
excepted, 
xist,  be- 
nder the 
Now 
y  years, 
purpo- 
xecutive, 

gly  with 
nd ;  the 
lem  pos- 
ation  re' 

and  Mf, 


tains :  Mr.  Tayfor  thus  draws  the  comparison :  "  This 
Kins  cannot  create  offices,  inflict  taxes,  piiss  laws,  or  raise 
armies;  neither  can  the  President.  The  King  can  ap- 
point officers,  disburse  taxes,  recommend  laws,  and  com- 
mand armies;  so  can  the  President.  This  King  can 
make  treaties  under  checic  of  two  legislative  branches  ; 
the  President  can  make  treaties  under  the  check  of  one. 
This  King  can  appoint  the  members  of  the  legislature  to 
lucrative  offices  ;  so  can  the  President ;  and  in  both  cases 
an  appointment  vacates  the  seat.  This  King  appoints  the 
judges  and  the  officers  who  appoint  the  juries;  su  does  the 
President."     p.  172. 

It  would  seem,  that  the  framers  of  the  General  Govern- 
ment had  the  English  constitution  in  their  contemplation, 
Vihen  they  invested  the  President  with  this  accumulation 
of  (tower;  less  probably  because  they  wished  to  assimilate 
the  two,  than  because  the  theories  which  had  been  built 
upon  the  system  of  orders,  had  concurred  m  the  idea,  that 
particular  powers  and  patronage  were  espentially  inherent 
in  the  executive;  a  notion,  which  if  closely  examint-d, 
has,  perhaps,  little  foundation;  the  result  however  is.  that 
the  American  government  is  both  more  like  the  British 
than  it  seems,  and  also  seems  more  like  than  it  is,  accord- 
ing to  the  point  of  view  of  the  observer. 

The  little  external  parade,  the  a!  sence  of  a  court,  no- 
bility, army,  and  established  church;  \vith  the  elective 
nature  of  the  presidency,  seem  to  form  distiiu-tinns  suffi- 
cient to  destroy  all  comparison  betwixt  them.  Tlie  com- 
parative estimate  of  executive  powers,  above  (pioted, 
seems,  on  the  other  hand,  to  give  them  a  ra<lical,  though 
unostentatious  approximation  ;*  and  wouhl  in  fact  do  so, 
but  for  two  principles  of  the  system,  which  it  remains  to 
consider. — Uncorrrupled  Representation,  and  actual  Res- 
ponsibility. 

6.  Uncorrupted  Representation. — Democracy  is  a  form 
of  government,  capable  of  exciting  evil  moral  qualities. 
It  is  evident,  that  a  nation  has  no  interest  in  oppre8<*ing  in- 
dividuals, but  it  is  possible,  imder  particular  circumstan- 
ces, to  persuade  it  that  it  has  such  an  interest ;  and  these  cir- 

*  It  was  probably  on  this  view,  tliat  Mr.  Handolph  «poke, 
when  he  said  in  Congress.  ''Torture  the  rons^titni'on  as  yon 
will,  the  President  will  appoint  his  siicressor,  and  sisuuld  lie 
over  have  a  son  of  the  proper  age,  that  son  will  succeed  him,'* 


/a. 


31S 


APPENDIX. 


pi;  Ml 


i    i-i 


r 


cumstances  necessarily  arise  more  frequently  in  ileniocra- 
ciei»;  first,  hecause  the  people  being  its  own  ageni,  and 
legislating  coik%;tively,  its  errours  of  judgment  lead  on  the 
instant  to  erroneous,  or  vicious  actions  :  secondly,  because 
in  all  assemblies,  some  individuals  must  lead,  and  if  the 
leaders  be  vicious,  they  will  substitute  their  own  interests 
for  those  of  the  community.  Democracies  are  therefore 
liable  to  errour  and  violence. 

It  is  easy  for  a  nation  to  avoid  these  inconveniences, 
by  committing  its  power  to  agents,  but  this  is  remuiyiug 
an  evil  by  a  greater,  since  agents,  with  the  same  means, 
have  far  greitler  inducements  to  oppress  individuals. 
Representation  was  invented  to  avoid  both,  by  diminish- 
ing the  lialtility  to  errour,  inherent  in  democracies,  and 
also  the  firopensity  to  oppression,  common  to  other  forms, 
constructed  with  undelegated  power. 

If  a  nation  exercises  sovereignty,  neither  corporately 
nor  by  delegates,  it  abandons  the  right  of  self-government, 
and  accepts  tlie  evils  of  despotism. 

What  is  representation  ?  The  exercise  of  a  vicariojjs 
funclioti.  How  can  one  man  stand  in  the  ploce  of.  or 
represt'iit  another?  Clearly  not  by  bis  own  act  and  au* 
thority,  for  such  an  attempt  in  any  transaction  of  life, 
would  be  regarded  either  as  an  indication  of  lunacy,  or  as 
fraudulent,  and  disiionesf.  The  act  of  the  person  repre- 
sented it»  therefore  essential  to  the  constituting  a  represen- 
tative ;  besides,  one  man  can  only  be  said  to  represent  an* 
other,  when  he  expresses  such  sentiments,  or  performs 
such  acts,  as  the  person  represented  would,  most  probably, 
himself  perform,  were  he  pre^snt  in  person;  in  this  m in- 
ner, one  man  may  reitresent  many,*  providied  the  man}'  are 
essentially  of  one  mind,  as  to  the  matters  to  be  performed 
by  the  representative.  But  what  certainty  can  be  obtaia- 
ed,  thai  one  man  represents  the  will  and  opinions  of  many, 
unless  the  mmy,  by  an  act  ofdelegation,  so  declare  ?  Elec- 
tion,  therefore, is  essential  to  representation.  But  it  so,  what 
meaning  is  to  be  attached  to  representation,  not  founded 
on  election  ?  or,  with  what  reason  can  such  refiresenta- 
tion  be  styled  virtual  or  essential,  when  it  is  built  on  the 
exclusion  of  that  which  constitutes  its  essence  ?  Yet, 
Mr.  Adams  cbnsiders  an  hereditary  monarch,  as  repre- 
senting the  whole  nation,  in  its  executive  capacity  ! 


*  The  proportion  of  representatives  fixed  by  the  rnnstitntion 
tor  the  general  government,  is  oue  to  every  30,000  inhabitants. 


.»    .  ■;-f^'-'-y'*^-^-tf--^w''- 


■  I 


APPENDIX. 


319 


The  whole  American  system  is  representative.  The 
Senate  represents  the  Slates;  each  State  sends  an  equal 
number  of  Senators  (two)  that  equality  mny  he  preserved 
betwixt  the  atit)!ig  and  the  weak,  the  small  and  great 
States. 

The  Senate  represents  the  federal  ^vill,  as  the  House 
of  Representativi--s,  the  popular  will. 

The  Presideii  representa  both.  "  He  is,"  says  Mr. 
Taylor,  "  the  compound  creature  of  the  equality  of  states, 
and  of  the  equality  of  man,  t)oth  of  which  are  infused  in- 
to the  mode  of  his  election,  for  the  purpose  of  preserving 
both."  p.  505.* 

If  there  were  any  portion  of  power  in  the  American 
system,  not  derivetl  from  the  nation,  that  portion  would 
be  at  variance  with  the  principle  of  National  Sovereign- 
ty, and  built  upon  those  of  force  and  fraud. 

When  power  has  been  disfrihuted  and  conferred  by 
election,  is  all  done  that  is  necessary  to  secure  freedom, 
and  prevent  the  ai.uses  of  Constitutional  -Agents?  Elec- 
tion may  become  a  most  eflicacious  instrument  of  tyran- 
ny, by  conferring  powers  unlimited,  or  ill-detined.  Bona- 
parte was  an  Elective  Despot. 

But  when  the  powers  of  the  functionary  have  been  lim- 
ited by  constitutional  precept,  does  any  further  danger 
remain  ?  Power  not  representative,  is  not  subjected  to 
the  national  will,  and  therefore  may  be  used  against  it ; 
but  we  have  considered  it  essential  to  representation,  that 
the  representative  sliould  disclose  sentiments  conformable 
to  those  of  the  represented:  What  security  have  electors 
for  this  ?  Human  opinions  change :  the  mind  of  man  is 
not  to-morrow  what  is  to  day ;  consequently,  the  repre- 
sentative of  to-day  may  be  no  representative  to-morrow. 
Theoretically,  there  is  no  remedy  for  this  evil,  because 
it  results  from  the  natural  qualities  of  the  human  mind; 
but  its  practical  evils  may  be  averted,  by  diminishing  the 
period  of  representation  in  such  a  degree,  that  frequent 
recurrence  must  be  made  to  the  national  will ;  so  that 
changes  of  opinion  betwixt  the  electors  and  elected,  may 

*  The  mode  of  Presidential  Elections,  has  been  found  so  ob- 
jectionable, that  a  bill  was  brought  into  Congress,  in  December 
1816,  to  amend  the  Constitution  in  this  particular,  by  leaving 
the  States  less  discretionary  power,  and  augmeutiog  the  popu- 
lar influence. 


^ 


\     -I 


■        \ 


;    [ii 


i;^  'f 


320 


APPENDIX. 


il  ! 


have  no  lime  to  operate  to  the  publirk  disadvantage. 
Tin?  recurrence  constitutes  the  |irinci|)le  of  Rotation,  ap- 
plied to  all  offices  of  the  Ainwrican  Government. 

The  House  of  RepresentaJives  is  chosen  every  second 
year.  The  senators  are  chosen  for  six  years;  but  they 
were  divided,  on  their  first  election,  into  three  classes, 
otiH  cl^iss  to  vacate  itieir  seats  every  second  year;  so  that 
one  third  ofihe  whole  body  is  biennially  renewed. 

The  president  holds  his  oftice  for  four  years. 

The  design  of  the  American  Government  bein^  to  de- 
stroy the  operation  of  evil  moral  principles,  the  duration 
as  well  as  the  extent  »»f  representative  power,  becomes 
a  fpipsfioii  reducilde  to  the  criterion  of  experience,  pro- 
nouuf'iii!;  how  frequently  it  m  ist  be  renovated,  to  prevent 
its  awakenini;  vicious  propensities.  Absolute  power,  con- 
veyed l)y  election,  for  however  short  a  periojj,  destroys 
N'ltional  Sovereijfnly  ;  because,  to  the  greatest  possible 
excitement  to  destroy  rotation,  it  unites  the  a;reafest  pos 
sil»l»'  mi'ans  \  less  dejiree  of  power,  conveyeil  for  an 
unlimited  i»erio<l,  produces  nearly  the  same  effect,  because 
power  attracts  power;  and  having  no  constitutional  limit 
to  its  duration,  it  will  go  on  increasing  into  despotism, 
unl^•ss  checkt-tl  by  Kevolntion. 

The  evil  qtialities  of  Power,  increasin'jj  therefore  in  a 
ratio  compounded  of  its  intensity  and  duration,  provided 
these  be  reduced  to  a  minimum,  the  evil  qualities  of  Pow- 
er will  he  diminished  in  'ike  proportion.  'JMte  minimum 
of  Political  Power,  is  Ihe  quantity  sufficing  for  the  pur- 
poses of  its  cfention  otdy  :  whatever  is  more  than  this, 
becomes  an  instrument  of  individual  profit  in  the  hands 
of  i's  possessor.  The  m'<nim!im  of  Duration,  is  that 
which  merely  suffices  for  pnl»lick  liusiness.  For  example, 
if  a  President,  without  tiie  power  of  appointing  judges, 
sh  iidd  be  found  eijiially  cipable  of  tilling  Ihe  executive 
station,  with  one  po»<sessing  this  power,  Ihe  former  is  more 
in  'Ills  in  with  the  princi;des  «)f  the  American  Constitu- 
tion th^n  the  litter.  If  a  House  of  Representatives, 
elected  annn.iMy,  be  found  as  efficacious  for  the  pur- 
poses of  jMil»iick  business  as  one  elected  biennially,  Ihe 
f<»rmer  is,  for  the  same  reason,  to  he  preferred  to  the  lat- 
ter, 

The  question  of  representation  involves  that  of  politi- 
cal c  irruiHiou,  liecaiise  it  is  i<i  vitiating  the  former,  that 
the  evil  elTects  of  the  latter  are  most  cunspicuoua. 


APPENDIX. 


Mr 


\' 


vantage, 
lion,  ap- 

j  second 
but  they 
rlHRses, 
;  so  ttiat 
J. 

\v  to  (le- 
(liiration 
becomes 
lice,    pro- 
)  prevent 
wer,  con- 
destroys 
possible 
Htest  pos 
pil  for  an 
[,  because 
>nt)l  limit 
lespotism, 

fore  in  a 
provided 
of  Pow- 
miiiimum 
the   pur- 
ban  this, 
he  hands 
,    is    that 
example, 
S  judffes, 
xecutive 
r  is  more 
Const!  tu- 
ntatives, 
the   pur- 
ally,    the 
the  lat- 

|or  poUtl- 
ler,  that 


Montesquieu  has  made  Virtue  the  vital  principle  of 
RepublicaniBm ;  and  consequences  the  most  injurious 
to  Freedom,  have  been  deduced  from  this  authoritative 
axiom. 

The  essence  of  Republicanism  is  virtue;  but  mankind 
are  vicious;  therefore  a  HepuldicU  is  an  impossifde  form 
of  Government  ;  and  the  demonstration  is  usually  closed 
with  a  pitying  glance  of  conscious  superiority,  at  such  as 
are  romantick  enough  to  dream  of  Virtue,  Republicanism, 
and  the  Perfectibilily  of  the  human  species. 

The  sophism  lies  in  the  double  meaning  of  an  abstract 
terra. 

If  by  Political  Virtue,  l)e  understood  a  sacritice  of 
self-interest,  an  beroick  abstraction  of  personal  consi- 
derations, such  a  quality  neither  is,  nor  could  be  a  ge- 
neral principle  of  human  action.  It  may  burn  in  the 
bosoms  of  a  few  consecrated  individuals,  shining  here 
and  there,  athwart  the  night  of  ages,  but  a  system  of  Go- 
vernment which  should  require  its  habitual  and  uniform 
agency,  could  exist  no  where  but  on  paper.  If,  on 
the  contrary,  by  Virtue,  we  understand  a  principle  of 
utility,  evincing  itself  by  laws,  0|)erHting  for  the  general 
good,  then  is  Virtue  both  the  essential  principle  of  Re|)ub- 
licanism,  and  also  a  quality  sufficiently  attainable  by  bu- 
mau  institutions.  A  republick  cannot  exist  without  vir- 
tuous laws,  that  is,  without  laws  generally  useful ;  but  is 
any  degree  of  self  devotion  requisite  to  the  making  of 
useful  laws,  or  can  none  but  coniidetely  virtuous  men 
make  them  /  On  the  contrary,  cannot  robbers  frame  laws 
generally  useful  to  their  own  society  ?  A  law  generally 
useful,  is  one  conformable  to  each  man's  individual  in- 
terest. And  how  can  men  be  induced  to  frame  such  laws  ? 
By  a  knowledge  of  this  interest,  Gi  neral  utility  there- 
fore, resolvable  into  enli<;htened  self-interest,  is  the  vital 
principle  of  Republicanidni. 

When  a  nation  coratnits  its  legislative  powers  to  indi- 
viduals, chosen  by  itself,  what  security  b'ls  it  that  these 
will  legislate  for  the  general,  and  not  for  their  private  ad- 
vantage ?  By  lecturing  Ihenion  virtue,  and  self  devotion  ? 
Clearly  not — but  liy  withdrawing  from  I  hem  all  tempta- 
tion to  ofTend.  If  they  be  entrusted  with  the  power  of 
pocketing  the  publick  money,  they  will  pocket  it ;  or  if 
the  Executive  branch  be  enabled  to  confer  a  portion  of 

41 


y     ! 


{  I 


'•s, 


li'2'1 


APPENDIX. 


f 


it  on  them,  they  will  accept   it,  mid  in  return  legislate, 
bolti  to  i»cr»Mse  liie  caiiubiiiiy  of  llie  Executive   to  con- 
fer, and   of  llieinaolves  to  receive:  tlwy   will  concur  in 
deltl,  iHxt's,  .iiid  sliuidiiig  armies,  provitled  they  are  to   he 
rewarded  with  lot  IIS,   lucrative  [ilaces,   and  cominii^sioiis ; 
and  if  a  seat  in  ihi^  legislature  he  the  |)urt;d  to  these    »c- 
quisiti'ins,  they  will   procure  seals  l>y   'uinery  uiiil  corrup- 
tion, Hfid  doultle  the   puhlick   iuiposilioiis  to   repay  them- 
selves the   price  thus  a(lvauc«-d.      liut    ".\iil    the    electors 
submit  to  he  bribed  and  corrupted,  and  ilus  become    the 
instruments   <tf   their  own  op|(n  ssioii  /    Yes — for  if  «)ne 
brunch  of  lln'  constitution  posst-i<8  the   inttuis  of  corrup- 
tion, the  ollwr  will  nut  fail  to  b«c<ii)i<-  its  iiii«trumenl.   The 
elector  thenfftre  reisons  thus;  the  Pii^i.lnit    can  by  law 
bestow  a  lucralivf  oHice  on  my   i<  jH.  scnlalivf,   and    my 
representative  c;in  l)y  law  accej.l    it;  in-   will  therefore, 
cither   from    possession  or  expectalioii,    leli!;i^lale  in   the 
President's  favour:  if  1  refuse  the  bri!)c  he  o.i«  rs  iti»',  the 
issue  will  be  the  same;  and  though   t  lun   iware   ndilition- 
al  taxation  must  enable   him   to  repay  himself  the  sums 
thus    expended,   yet    my   share   of   the    tax   will    be  less 
than    my   share  of   the    bribe. — If  the  sysltin  adiniis   of 
corruption  the  formula^  are   mere  matters  of  nuioushine. 
The  statement  of   the   evil  unfolds    the    remedy.     The 
evil  lies  in  the  President's  ability  to  bestow,  and  that  of 
the  representative  to  receive;  the  latter  is  a  consequence 
of  the   former.     Destroy   the  former,  and  you   leave,  in 
the  mind  of  the   representative,   no  interest  superiour  to 
that  which  he  has  in  common  with  his  constituents ;  the 
interest  all  the  mem*iers  of  a   stale  have,  in   the  making 
of  (rood  laws ;  he  will  con8e(|Uentiy  legislate  in  favour  of 
this  interest. 

It  is  admitted  however,  [\\\t  a  certain  decree  of  pa- 
tronage must  be  attached  to  the  executive  branch  of  the 
coiHtilution.  The  '•■■f'stion  cotise(piently  becomes  one 
of  plus  and  minus,  a  matter  of  calculation  to  discover 
the  quantity  with  which  it  may  be  safely  entrusleil,  so 
that  it  shall  neither  have  the  means  of  britiinu;  the  legis- 
lature, nor  the  isgislature  in  cunsequeuce  hud  it  worth 
while  to  bribe  the  people.* 

*  If  the  means  be  limited,  the  miniher  of  prizes  in  the  Po- 
litical liOttery  In  diminished.  If  a  proportionate  increuxe  of 
Reprrseiitutives  iitlitiw  nil  extension  ot  the  ri^clit  of  Kiiflraico, 
and  Electioni  be  made  uiure  frequent,  the  chances  of  gaining 


APPENDIX. 


323 


the  Po- 

|reuF>(i  of 

If  gaining 


It  may  be  doubted  if  the  American  system  has  ab- 
8ohitely  reaoheil  llie  minimum  in  this  r<S|it'cl;  certain 
however  it  is  tliat  tlie  (leople  retain  such  a  eoulrol  over 
their  representatives,  as  either  wliolly  to  |tre\eiit  their  le- 
gii^laitiig  in  iheir  own  favour,  or  to  compel  them  to  a 
8j)eedy   reeiiniation,  should  they  attempt   it.* 

The  soUition  uf  the  Cjueslion  of  [-.olitical  corruption 
intidenlaliy  resolves  that  of  Universal  SuflVage  ;  a  right, 
as  lias  l)et  n  seen,  restricted  Ity  several  of  the  State  Con- 
stitutions, although.,  except  iu  Virginia,  the  (jualificatious 
re(]!iiird  are  pruhaldy  such  as  to  exchide  few  but  p;.u- 
pers.  The  qu<  siion  is  therefore  rather  of  abstract  right, 
than  of  practice. 

Wlien  I  he  riiilil  of  sullrage  is  limited,  that  is,  when 
pel^()us  eiujliiliutiiig  to  the  expenses,  are  tiebarred  from 
ai.y  8l;;ire  in  the  control  of  the  exj  endilure  of  the  Slate, 
th<- rea.'*oii  of  this  liuHlation  (if  the  iiii\itt\  jus J'tirUoris  be 
not  at>Kun)«d)  must  ite  sought  in  some  pretext  of  moral 
gu!ll.  or  of  I'uhlicli  utility.  It  is  object*  d,  that  poor  men, 
that  ie,  mtii  who  have  less  than  the  ma,i(>rity  of  their 
fel'ou  eilizi'iis.  will  l)e  lit  siiltjecls  for  bril»ery  : — granted, 
but  upon  what  gioiinds  are  they  then  fore  to  be  [tunished  ? 
If  a  dp.u-ivation  ol  an  inherent  right  is  to  lie  attached  to 
a  liitliiliiy  to  l«e  corriijitcd,  why  siiuuld  not  the  s;ime  de- 
privation lie  attai'iud  to  the  li.'.tiiliiy  to  corrupt,  and 
very  rich  men  le  t(|Uall>  punisheii  with  very  |)oor  men? 
The  nior.il  ^iiilt  woiii-l  l»e  at  least  e(jual  should  the  crime 
be  e'uninillt'tl,  ami  that  they  should  be  presumptively 
piiiiis^lied,  ia  no  hard<.-r  in  one  case  than  the  other.  If 
not  mor:d  •:;uilt.  but  piil)lieU  utility  lie  the  obj<el,  it  seems 
supertbitius  to  ol  ject  In  Mtpular  corruption,  under  a  sys- 
tem which  enlorces  leginlative  corruption.  Where  the 
carcass  I3,  the  Dies  will  be  collected,  if  one  branch  (tf  a 
government  possess  the  means  to  corruid,  the  other 
brancliea  will  present  the  facility  to  be  corrupted,  what- 
ever may   be  the   mode  of  their  election.     IJnder  such 

a  prixu  are  propni-tiruiably  rediiceil,  until  it  becomes  a  kuavc'8 
interest  to  be  lionest,  or  forbear  his  political  ealliiiji;. 

*  An  instanre  occurred  lately.  Congress  passed  a  bill, 
cominiitinic  the  daily  allovvaiiee  to  Meinliers  for  an  animal 
8ti|>eiid.  The  People  resented  siirli  un  appi-o|H'iuti))ii  of  the 
piiiilick  money:  turned  oal  forty  of  the  oHeiid  ng  Meni'.irs  at 
the  next  Kleclion,  and  compelled  the  rest  to  sing  a  I'aliiio- 
dia. 


i 


\  < 


f 


324 


APPENDIX. 


m 


^ 


fl 

1 

circL-nnstances,  Ihe  limitation  of  the  elective  franchise, 
and  laws  against  brihtry  and  corru()tion,  are  ei|iiival»int 
to  a  law  pruhihitiua:  maggots  from  breeding  in  a  dead 
dog:  bury  the  earcaHS,  and  there  will  Ji>e  no  broods  de- 
riving life  from  iid  |iulridity:  to  drop  the  metaphor,  re- 
move the  means  of  corrupt  ion,  and  there  will,  he  no  bribe- 
ry for  the  purpose  of  liemg  corrupted.  The  persons 
most  ready  to  bribe  are  [irecisely  those,  who  have  the 
least  inclination  to  expend  their  money  without  a  eutfi- 
cient  return  :  the  people  are  not  corrupted  by  those  who 
are  to  reap  no  fruits  from  their  corruption,  and  when  no 
one  has  interest  in  bribing  his  suffrage,  the  poor  man's 
vote  is  as  liable  to  be  well  bestowed  as  the  rich  man's. 
The  true  state  of  this  question  will  be  further  evident, 
from  considering  the  futility  of  all  lemedies  lor  corrup- 
tion, VNbichdo  nut  reach  the  l^art  of  the  disease.  In 
Virginia,  greiit  powers  ol  patronage  are  concentrated  in 
the  Legislature,  much  ccTni|)tinn.  if,  consejjtiently,  to  be 
found  in  the  fin\nnrnent,  anti  yet  ibc  Elective  Fran- 
chise is  more    limitfd   lh;in   in   any    State  of  the   Union. 

To  destroy  corru|ition  by  limiting  the  Elective  Fran- 
chise, proceeds  upon  the  logical  errour  of  non  causam 
pro  crtM.sd;  that  bribery  is  practised,  because  there  are 
people  capable  of  being  bribed,  not  because  there  are 
people  who  find  it  worth  while  to  liribe  them. 

Another  false  position  is  assumed,  namely,  that  none 
but  poor  men  are  capable  of  being  bribed;  and  this  too, 
while  the  very  act  of  limitation  implies,  that  rich  men 
will  britie,  and  consequently,  receive  bribes.  The  re- 
presentative who  buys  the  elector's  vote,  sells  his  own  to 
the  President,  or  to  whatever  branch  of  the  constitution 
possesses  the  means  of  buying  it :  it  is  true,  that  the  vote 
of  a  man  of  property  may  cost  more  than  that  of  u  poor 
man,  but  this  is  made  up  to  the  candidate  in  the  dimin- 
ished number  of  his  purchases ;  so  far,  however,  is  this 
diminution  from  diminishing  the  inducement  to  sell,  that 
it  evidently  increases  the  temptation,  by  raising  the  value 
of  the  commodity;  and  so  on,  the  greater  the  diminution 
becomes. 

7.  Actual  Responsibity. — Responsibility  pervades  eve- 
ry portion  of  the  American  System:  each  branch  of 
the  Government  is  responsible;  therefore,  the  whole  ii 
respoubible.'*' 

*  Puni><hmpnt   In  cases  of  impeachment,  extendu  only  to 
removal  froui  office  and  disqualitication  :   the  reason  seems  to 


APPENDIX. 


32.0 


fi  eve- 
inch  or 
hole  U 


Responsibility  implies  a  power  superiour  to  that  of  re- 
sponsible agents :  it  would  lie  absurd  to  suppose  h  greater 
power  resjjoiisilde  to  a  less,  or  an  equal  to  an  equal.  Ac- 
curding  to  the  American  system,  this  superiour  power  is 
in  the  nation,  which  has  reserved  to  itself  the  means,  both 
of  manifesting  and  of  enlorcing  its  will.  The  Hous^  of 
Ke|)resenlatives  is  the  organ  it  employs  for  the  first  of 
these  purposes;  the  Militia  for  the  second  :  these,  toge- 
ther, constitute  the  moral  and  physical  expressions  of 
National  Sovereignty.  Responsibility,  therefore,  hinges 
upon  nncorrupted  representation,  and  division  of  |)ower. 
The  separation  of  these  two  |)i'inciples  discloses  on  either 
side  anarchy  and  despotism.  Should  the  moral  organ  be- 
come vitiated;  should  the  House  of  Representatives  cease 
to  represent  the  people,  and  consequently  to  express  the 
national  will,  there  remains  only  the  employment  of 
physical  force,  to  avoid  the  evils  of  despotism  ;  but  physi- 
cal force,  however  adequate  to  punish  and  destroy,  is  too 
commoidy  found  an  inadequate  instrument  to  amend  and 
re-establish. 

The  other  altei'nalive  is  still  more  fatal.  Should  the 
nation  give  the  sword  from  its  own  grasp,  while  its  organ 
of  rejiresentation  is'  still  uncontaminated,  the  latter,  to 
use  Mr.  Taylor's  expression,  "  is  John  the  Hfijitist  preach- 
ing to  a  wilderness  :"  nor  will  the  barren  itoon  of  |»ro- 
claiming  its  own  iml)ecility  be  long  conceded  to  it ;  that 
branch  of  the  Government,  which  had  foimd  rnejuis  to 
disarm  a  nation,  will  n()J  long  fail,  either  forcibly  to  silence 
its  representatives,  or,  still  more  fatally  to  convert  them 
into  panders  of  its  wilt,  and  shiirers  in  its  corruption. 

Upon  a  review  of  the  History  of  (tovernnients,  both 
ancient  and  modern,  we  (ind,  that  all  of  them  have  been 
proved  adequate  to  ensure  considerable  periods  of  publick 
tranquillity,  provided  they  possessed  i^nch  a  concentration 
of  power,  as  to  render  opposition  fruitless.  Hut  history 
also  teaches  that  this  same  concentration  has  no  less  in- 
variably destroyed  publick  happiness,  by  destroying  re- 
sponsibility, anil   committing  the  whole  management  of 

be  that  respnnKiliility  attaches  itself  to  the  abuse  of  leu;al 
powers  only,  not  to  hrtiaehes  of  positive  law  which  are  cou;- 
nixable  by  the  ordinary  courts  of  justice  :  but  actions  uliich 
are  not  illegal,  cannot  justly  be  punished  its  crimes;  hut  they 
may  evince  viriousness  of  intention,  or  weakness  of  intelli'ct, 
and  in  either  case,  the  nation  justly  assumes  tlie  power  of  wilh- 
irawing  the  authority  it  had  bestowed  for  it!)  own  advantage. 


i    I 


(    J 


r 


326 


APPEINUIX. 


!i  ' 


(he  political  machiae  to  force  and  fraud.  The  object  of 
the  American  systein  is  to  secure  both  :  |iubiick  happi- 
ness, by  the  respoiiiiihiiity  of  political  agents;  and  tran- 
quillity, by  a  concent  ration  of  power.  How  then  are  the 
evils  resulting;  from  the  taller,  under  other  systems,  avoid- 
ed in  this  ?  By  changing  the  depositaries. — Wiien  a  gov- 
ernment is  stronijer  than  the  nation,  national  sovereignty 
is  a  dream,  and  constitutional  rights  waste  paper,  on  which 
governments  iiiscribe  taxen,  standing  armies,  patronage, 
and  corruption.  The  American  people  are  stronger  than 
the  sroverumt'nt,  in  the  proportion  of  fifty  to  one,  or  of 
500,0)0  Alililia  to  10.000  regujar  troops,  and  if  we  take 
into  Cilcul.itioii  the  immense  territory  over  which  the 
reguhii-s  are  scattered,  the  proportion  may  well  be  set  at 
500  (o  one. 

The  American  Government  has  been  accused  of  weak- 
ness iind  inttficicncy.  If  its  strength  he  measured  against 
that  uf  the  people,  the  above  statement  will  prove  tlie 
accusation  ,j-is(.  If  it  !ie  consitlered  in  union  with  the 
pnbliek  will,  it  is  pro'.tably  tiie  strongest  c:i  earth  ;  since 
it  is  l)ar,ke(l  by  the  whole  moral  and  physical  power  of 
the  natia  i;  in  projf  of  wl)icli  m  ly  be  allc.'';t^tl  its  a:>iiiiy  to 
steer  Ibroiigli  the  perioil  of  the  late  war,  without  requiring 
the  ailililional  defence  of  a  single  act  of  Congress;  and 
the  simpliciiy  with  which  it  works,  in  ordinary  times, 
when  a  consl.iMt 's  still'is  sufficient  to  enforce  the  execu- 
tion of  the  law  (Vom  .Maine  to  the  Missouri.  It  is  proba- 
ble the  weakest  of  all  Governments  are  precisely  those 
which  call  themselves  vigorous-  anil  energetiek ;  and 
should  that  of  America  be  ever  heard  to  call  for  laws  to 
put  down  the  f.ictioiis,  and  to  declare  that  (he  anarchical 
spirit  of  the  times  required  the  ajiplicalion  of  measures 
unusually  vigorous,  and  contrary  to  the  practice  of  her 
belter  days,  however  the  forms  of  her  conslitnlion  may 
be  retained,  its  principles  will  have  been  rooted  out,  and 
fraud  and  force  snlisiilutetl  in  their  place,  to  work  the 
gratification  of  the  few,  at  the  expense  of  the  many. 

H. — Knowlediie — Knowleilge  is  power.  Men  submit 
as  implicitly  to  those  who  persuade,  as  to  those  who  com- 
mand them  :  with  this  disiiiniion  in  favour  of  the  former, 
that  good  will  accompanies  persuasion,  and  shrinks  from 
authority.  All  Governments  are  sensible  of  this  truth, 
and  it  is  for  this  reason,  that  such  of  them  as  are  establish- 
ed upon  a  denial  of  national  sovereignty,  and  consequent- 


^ 


m 

object  of 
ck  hapi)!- 
Miid  traii- 
;n  are  the 
ns,  avoid- 
en  a  gov- 
tvereignty 

on  which 
patronage, 
•nger  than 
ane,  or  of 
r  we  lake 
which  the 

be  set  at 

d  of  vveak- 
red  against 
prove  tl>e 
1  witli  I  lie 
irlh  ;  since 
I  jiowt-r  of 
!i  ai.iliiy  to 
It  re(|uiriiig 
igrcss;  and 
ary  times, 
the  execu-  ' 

13  proba- 
sely  those 
ick  ;  and 
)r  laws  to 
anarcliical 
'  ineasurt'B 
Wa'  of  her 
uti(tn  may 
I  out,  and 
work  the 
my. 

ri   submit 

who  coiti- 

he  former, 

rinks  from 

his    truth, 

estHbiish- 

nsequent- 


APPENDIX. 


327 


ly  upon  evil  moral  principles,  never  fail  to  unite  fraud  to 
force,  for  the  purpt)8e  of  conimantHiiir  the  minds,  as  well 
as  tiodifs  (jf  tlieir  an^jeils.  The  oltjecl,  in  this  case,  is  to 
substitute  in  the  mimls  of  the  governed,  tiie  advantage  of 
their  rulers,  for  their  own;  aiid  this  may  be  ctlecled  in 
two  ways  ;  tiist,  by  not  suflVring  them  to  be  instructed  at 
all,  in  which  case  the  power  of  Government  jiesses  wilh 
the  lV)rce  of  fatalism,  anti  requires  Oi;ly  the  aid  of  a  legal 
religion  to  give  it  a  divine  sanction,  that  the  mental  chain 
may  l)e  eomplttely  rivetted.  Secondly,  by  the  Govern- 
ment becoming  itgelf  the  instructor  :  which  is  generally 
eflecled  by  means  of  a  legal  religion,  by  the  priests  of 
which  the  business  of  education  is,  liy  various  processes, 
monopolized.  Kn  Avietlge,  un;!er  these  circumstances,  re- 
semldes  light  passing  through  a  coloured  medium  ;  it  repre- 
sents the  form  of  objecle,  bui  gives  them  artificial  hues. 

The  American  system  is  necessarily  repugujint  to  both 
these  methods  :  the  right  of  instruction  is  one  of  those 
which  the  nation  retains  in  its  own  hiiuds.  'J'o  entrust  it 
to  a  government  or  a  prieslhoud,  woulil  be  to  substitute 
the  political  or  religious  creed  of  a  sect,  or  party,  in  the 
pitiCe  of  the  interests  of  the  nation. 


SECTION    IV. 


OP  THE  EFFECTS  OF  THE  AMERICAN  SYSTEM. 

Governments  create  neither  men  nor  food  ;  consequent- 
ly they  cannot  create  happiness.* 

Their  operation  is  preventive,  by  neutralizing  the  ten- 
dency e:'ch  man  has  to  injure  others,  for  the  snke  of  bene- 
fitting bimstif;  and  this  set  ins  to  l;e  the  only  positive  ope- 
ration l»y  which  they  are  iapalile  of  proninling  national 
feiiciiy.  'J'he  frrsi  and  essential  attribute  of  gooji  govern- 
ment IS,  therefore,  sjcurily  for  persons  and  pn)perly,  by 
means  of  ^^hich  the  universal  stimulus  of  self-love  is  left 

*  Happiness;,  as  a  politiral  result,  may  I  r  defined  to  be  the 
enjnyiiieiit  of  personal  (Vet'dnm.  and  of  the  means  of  snbsJKtenre, 
sntfuiint  for  « arh  individual,  with  those  naturally  di^ndant 
on  liim;  meanin!r  by  suttirient,  not  the  miniuinm  of  subulstence 
necessary  tor  exist«'nce,  hnt  inrludin):  h  degree  of  eondbrt  pro- 
portioned fo  the  progress  of  the  society  in  which  lie  lives,  and 
To  the  enjoyments  of  the  upper  classes  hi  it. 


• 


328 


APPENDIX. 


'■  n 


k  I 


I      1 


full  scope  to  work  out  the  good  pf  each  individual,  with- 
out injury  to  others. 

The  laws  protect  personal  Freedom  in  America,  because 
they  expre-8  the  general  will,  and  are  therefore  para- 
mount over  any  individual,  or  combination  of  individual 
interests. 

The  remedy  for  illegal  imprisonment  is.  as  in  England, 
by  writ  of  Habeas  Corpus  which  issues  in  all  cases  what- 
ever, ami  can  be  su3|)ended  in  its  operation  by  an  Act  of 
Congress  only,  which,  by  a  constitutional  precfftt,  may 
be  pMSt  "  in  cases  of  reiiellion,  and  invasion  only  :"  and 
as  the  nation,  by  its  representatives,  is  to  judge  of  the  oc- 
casion, it  is  scarcely  possible  for  a  President  to  use  the 
pntext  of  plots,  and  conspiracies,  to  suspend  the  privileges 
of  the  people.* 

The  American  system  secures  propertj'  by  actual  re- 
presentation, and  division  of  power.  The  first  constitutes 
the  people  judges  of  the  necessity  and  amount  of  taxation 
to  be  imposed;  the  second  prevents  the  generation  of  any 
interest,  in  opposition  to  that  of  the  people,  liy  which  its 
property  might,  forcibly  or  fraudently,  be  extracted  fromit.f 

But  while  the  healthful  operation  of  Governments  is 
thus  limited,  their  powers  of  producing  evil  dilate  almost 
into  infinity.  They  cannot  create  a  blade  of  grass,  but 
they  can  desolate  the  Universe ;  and  it  is  from  this  consi- 
der ition  we  ascribe  to  them  us  virtue,  the  evils  they  for- 
bear to  create. 

It  would  be  endless  to  institute  a  comparison  betwixt 
the  American  system  and  other  forms  of  Government, 
unon  every  item  of  calamity  Governments  are  capable  of 
priducinsr;  one  however,  may  be  selected,  because  it  is 
either  the  cause  or  consequence  of  all  others  ;  and  of  itself 
fully  ex'iress^R  by  its  increase  or  diminution,  the  essential 
nature  of  Political  Systems  :   it  is  Want.;}^ 

*  The  Habeas  Corpus  act  was  never  suspended  during  the 
late  war. 

+  Any  body  of  m^n  having  a  powerfnl  Interest  in  deceiving  a 
nation,  will  prnha' ly  in  the  Inii":  rnn,  deceive  it;  and  since 
there  is  srarcelv  any  limit  to  human  credulity,  a  (tystem  of  fraud 
onop  hesiun,  will  be  »*ven  more  ruinous  than  one  of  simple  op- 
pr»»ssiob.  hpeanse  good-will  in  th^  former  case,  will  re-pruduce 
the  food  of  the  vulture,  which  preys  upon  it. 

t  Want  Is  oolltically  thn  reverse  of  political  happiness  :  the 
lack  of  a  sv^ient  maintenance  for  each  individual  and  his  fa- 


^% 


APPENDIX. 


829 


al,  with- 

,  because 
•re  para- 
iilividual 

England, 
ses  what- 
in  Act  of 
I'pJ,  may 
ly  :''  and 
L)f  the  oc- 
o  use  the 
|)rivilege8 

actual  re- 
onstitutes 
r  taxation 
on  of  any 
which  its 
'd  from  it.j 
nments  is 
[ite  almost 
i^rass,  but 
lis  consi- 
hey  for- 

betwixt 

vernment, 

apable  of 

ause  it  it 

of  itself 
esseotial 


uring  the 

leoeivlng  a 
and  since 
>in  of  fraud 
simple  op- 
re-pruduce 

iness  :  the 
and  his  fa- 


How  f:ir  is  want  affributable  to  Government  i 
Man  is  atiiinjlilt'd  hoflj  by  renson  (mil  insliiict  to  soek 
his  own  hapjtint-SB.  and  this  lemlenoy,  j)rovi<lett  it  he  not 
extTcised  to  the  injury  ofollifrs  is  illowfi!  lo  be  i.uidifble. 
WbHtever  checks  it  must  lln  id'oie  I'e  evil,  and,  as  refer- 
able to  h'nnm  afjeiicy,  tilarne  i-Iile. 

Considered  with  resx^ct  lo  its  [>o!i(iciil  h;ippinP9S  or 
misery.  Society  ni.iy  be  supposed  to  exist  under  llie  fol- 
lowing forms. 

1.  A  Community  m^y  !»e  planted  on  a  8«>il  ca(»able  of 
feedini^  but  a  part  of  its  ninnwer?,  or  iii  a  pisfile'.tial  at- 
mosphere, or  ofi  the  crati^r  nf  a  volca-.o.  It  is  evidt^it 
that  in  all  these  cases,  misery  must  ensu.',  whatever  might 
be  the  furm  <»f  Govermnnil,  hecatiHe  the  obstdcit  s  lo 
pu'dick  happiness  are  natural,  and  therefore  unavoid- 
able. 

2.  h  may  be  settle«l  in  a  fertile  country,  but  have  in- 
creased beyor\d  any  possible  increase  of  the  fecundity 
of  the  soil.  Here  loo,  NHture  bars  the  ellorts  of  human 
interference,  as  eflectually  as  in  the  former  cases. 

3.  Suppose  it  however  fixed  on  a  territory  ca|)able  of 
fiuppnrling;  more  than  its  present  numbers,  and  yet  a 
large  portion  of  these  sulVeriug  from  want,*  bow  far 
woidd  Government  in  this  inst-tnce,  be  chaigeable  with 
crushing  or  paralysing   the   universal   tendency  lowarda 

mily.  In  the  extreme  it  annihilates  pergonal  freedom,  KJnre  it 
is  inunaterial  whether  tlie  law>d<?privc  a  man  of  his  Jibertv,  or 
whether  his  poverty  dni's  iiiin  the  means  of  redress,  should  it 
be  taken  from  him  illegally. 

*  The  Unitful  States  thnm«elves  prefient  a  curious  illustra- 
tion of  this  case.  There  ex  sfs  in  several  States  a  body  of 
men,  consMMitin;;  a  mnjority  of  the  population  in  many  dis- 
tricts, who  lalmnr  constantly,  and  yet  never  procure  beyond 
the  eoarst"*!  food,  by  which  their  i)odily  slren:ith  may  he  sup- 
ported, without  a  siii(rl(i  addii  inal  comfort,  'i'his  cannot  pro- 
cc'mI  Iron  a  rediinduKv  of  population,  since  every  year  new 
townships  are  erected  in  tliese  states  and  new  villages  Iniilt ; 
nor  IVoni  the  poverty  of  the  soil,  for  their  labour  furnishes 
others  with  luxuries;  l»ut  they  are  slaves,  that  is,  they  pos- 
sess nothins  aud  their  masters  all.  But  were  the  social  edi- 
fice dissolved  i\nd  rehuiit  hy  pliysical  force,  would  the  result 
be  the  same  .'  I<;vi<leutly  not,  for  one  master  is  not  equal  in 
itr"na;th  to  .Wor  100  slaves.  The  inequality,  therefore,  and 
consequent  misery  are  the  work  of  Government. 

42 


1 


ff- 


'    p 


330 


APPEHDIX. 


happiness  ?  To  answer  (his  question,  we  must  refer  to 
the  cause  of  the  evil  complained  of.  Why  do  some  want, 
when  Natuie  would  yield  enough  for  all  ? 

A  deficiency  of  individual  exertion  is  the  cause  in 
some  few  instances,  but,  unless  artificially  obstructed, 
seiriove  is  on  the  average  abundantly  sufficient  to  excite 
to  seir  gratification.  There  are  few  men,  who  if  placed 
on  a  desert  island,  would  rather  starve  than  work ;  lew 
who  having  obtained  the  necessaries,  would  not  purchase 
by  toil  some  of  the  comforts  of  existence.  The  cause 
must  therefore  be  something  insurmountable  by  human 
industry.     Let  us  assume  the  case  of  a  slave. 

Why  are  the  labours  of  a  slave  insufficient  to  procure 
his  happiness.^  Because  he  labours  for  another,  who,  ac- 
tuated by  self-interest,  will  yield  him  no  more  of  the  pro- 
duct  of  his  toil,  than  barely  suffices  to  preserve  him  in  a 
condition  fit  to  continue  it. 

Grant  him  his  freedom,  would  his  situation  be  bettered 
by  it  ?  If  his  quondam  masters  continued  absolute  lords 
of  the  whole  soil,  and  this  monopoly  were  secured  to 
them  by  power,  clearly  not.  He  would  be  forced  to  re- 
ceive the  minimum  of  subsistence  as  before.  The  proxi- 
mate cause  of  his  distress  would  be  accumulation  of  pro- 
perty in  the  hands  of  a  governing  class,  but  the  effective 
cause  would  be  the  law  or  system  of  Government,  by 
which  this  accumulation  was  created  and  maintained. 

Wherever  the  feudal  system  existed,  accumulation  wat 
effected  by  laws  of  primogeniture,  entails,  escheats,  and . 
forfeitures,  which,  with  the  aid  of  Ecclesiastical  fraud,  ^ 
divided  the  property  of  each  state,  betwixt  the  King, 
Lords,  and  Church,  leaving  for  the  people's  share,  la- 
bour and  oppression.  When  feudalism  decayed,  it  left 
social  institutions  so  constructed,  as  to  afford  a  fit  basis 
for  the  modern  substitution  by  which  accumulation  is  still 
preserved,  Taxation."' 

*  Taxation  has  been  said  to  divide  instead  of  accumulating. 
Suppose  a  nation  to  raise  fiO.OOO.OOO/.  annually  in  taxes,  it 
is  evident  such  an  inaposition  goes  to  divide  as  far  as  the 
payers  are  concerned,  for  no  accumulation  can  take  place 
without  a  co-extensive  division ;  but  what  is  the  case  with 
regard  to  the  receivers?  It  cannot  be  said,  that  the  whole 
sura  is  divided  among  the  contributors,  for  then  why  raise 
it  ?  It  must  therefore  be  divided  among  a  less  number,  and 
this  is  accumulation.  It  is  true  the  soil  may  ostensibly  con- 
tinue in  the  same  hands ;  but  as  long  as  the  occupiers  yield 


APPENDIX. 


331 


efer  to 
;  want, 

kuse  in 
tructed, 

>  excite 
placed 

rk;  few 
urchase 

>  cause 
human 

procure 
who,  ac- 
the  pro- 
lim  in  a 

bettered 
ute  lords 
cured  to 
;ed  to  re- 
he  proxi- 
)n  of  pro- 
efTective 
leot,  by 
lined, 
lion  was 
ate,  and 
al  fraud, 
le  King, 
hare,  la- 
it  left 
fit  basis 
>n  is  still 


[mulating. 
taxes,  it 
kar  as  the 
Ike  place 
Vase  with 
Ithe  whole 
vhy  raise 
fiber,  and 
libly  con-  * 
iers  yield 


The  American  system,  not  being  founded  upon  feudal 
principles,  rejects  the  law  of  primugeniture  common  to 
European  Governments,  and  huving  subjected  taxation 
to  National  Sovereignty,  leaves  accumulation  to  the  na- 
tural order  of  events,  by  wiiich  it  is  alternately  repro- 
duced and  jlestroyed.' 

Men  are  horn  unequal  in  strength,  talents,  and  appli- 
cation :  their  success  in  lite  is  consequently  unequal :  one 
man  rises  into  affluence,  another  subsides  into  poverty. 
But  moral  qualities  are  not  inheritalile  :  the  active  and 
skilful  father  is  succeeded  hy  an  indolent  or  weak  son, 
and  vi-ce  versa.  Thus  accumulation  per|ietnally  alternates 
with  division,  and  the  general  level  of  society  is  no 
more  destroyed  than  is  that  of  the  ocean,  by  the  billows 
which  swell  and   sultside  upon  its  surface. 

Would  not  this  system  in  any  other  country  but  Ameri- 
ca, produce  misery,  by  removing  all  checks  to  a  supera- 
bundant increase  of  population,  and  thus  render  the  con- 
dition of  society  worse  generally  than  before?  Perhaps 
it  would  '  perhaps  too«  nature  may  have  remedies  in  store, 
when  the  occasion  shall  require  them:  in  either  case 
governments  which  create  inequality,  and  consequent 
misery,  by  law,  are  not  Just  itiable ;  tirsi,  because  it  is 
contrary  to  reason  to  8ul)8titute  a  positive  for  a  possible 
evil;  secondly,  because  they  have  in  no  case  been  em- 
powered to  sacrifice  the  present  generation  to  posterity ; 
thirdly,  because  in  doing  so  they  consider  neither  the 
present  generation  nor  posterity,  but  are  actuated  by 
self-interest  only,  according  to  which  they  substitute  the 
increase  of  their  own  power  for  the  general  good. 


♦      ( 


SECTION  V. 

CONCLUSION. 


I  have  thus  far  touched   upon  the  general   principles 
and  most  striking  effects  of  the  American  system. 

the  chief  part  of  their  proiluct  in  taxes,  they  are  no  other  than 
cultivators  or  ViUani  for  the  benefit  of  the  receivers.  They 
may  be  treated  with  indulgence  to  render  their  services  more 
profitable,  or  with  harshness,  lest  they  should  acquire  courage 
to  resist,  or  sagacity  to  escape.  The  mode  of  their  treatment 
is  indifferent  to  the  fact. 


332 


APPENDIX. 


With  respect  to  its  relative  value,  and  to  the  advance* 
ment  it  miiy  be  coiisiilered  as  having  made  in  the  science 
of  politicks,  there  will  probably  exist  much  diversity  of 
opinion,  but  none,  I  think,  as  to  its  utility  with  reference 
to  the  American  people.  It  has  survived  the  tender 
period  of  infancy,  and  outlived  the  prophecies  of  its 
downfall.*  By  the  trium;)h  of  the  Democratick  party, 
its  principles  have  been  fostered  into  maturity,  and  their 
application  illustrated  by  experience.  It  has  borne  the 
nation  triumphantly  through  a  period  of  donieslick  diffi- 
culty, and  external  danger;  it  has  been  found  service- 
able both  in  peace  and  war,  and  may  well  claim  from 
the  nation  it  has  saved,  and  honoured,  the  votive  beae- 
Hiciion  of  ^' Esto  pcrpdua." 


M> 


\i 


*  I  allude  to  Mr.  Ames'  Essay  "On  the  Dangers  of  Ameri- 
can Liberty,"  written  in  180.'>.  Fisher  Ames  was  the  Burke 
of  America.  With  an  understanding  Tigorous,  and  higlily 
cultivated,  he  had  the  same  vividness  of  imagination,  united 
with  anite,  it  might  almost  be  said,  morbid  sensibility.  He 
saw  objects  dimly,  through  the  medium  of  discoloured  feel- 
ings, but  his  brilliant  and  heated  fancy  supplied  the  defi- 
ciencies of  reality,  till  he  started  at  the  phantastick  crea- 
tions of  his  own  eloquence.  The  French  Revolution  had  doubt- 
less its  admirers  in  America,  and  where  political  feelings 
know  no  restraint,  the  expression  of  them  will  go  even  be- 
yond the  truth.  There  might  be  individuals  too,  whose 
proper  element  was  confusion,  and  who  would  theretbre  have 
gladly  raised  a  tempest  they  hoped  to  govern,  but  to  revo- 
lutionize a  nation  by  speeches  and  newspapers,  is  a  project 
incompatible  with  the  known  laws  of  human  nature.  Civil 
commotions  can  be  raiwd  by  suffering  only,  and  by  suffering 
of  a  very  intense  kind.  Men  will  not  hazard  a  comfortable 
existence  for  the  sake  of  metaphysical  doctrines,  which  i^ro- 
mise  them  no  advantages  they  are  not  already  possessed  of; 
yet  Mr.  Ames  assumes  in  his  writings  a  possibility  of  this 
kind,  and  labours  to  sh^^w  how  a  few  knaves  may  turn  a  hap- 
py people  topsy-turvy.  As  might  be  expected,  the  contrast 
betwixt  his  facts,  and  his  hifirences,  is  ludicrously  striking. 
Time  has  amply  shewn  the  inanity  of  those  gloomy  forebodings, 
which  too  probably  weighed  on  his  own  distempered  spirit, 
and  accelerated  the  close  of  a  career  adorned  with  the  exhi- 
bition of  splendid  talents,  and  directed  by  the  purest  feelings 
of  virtue  and  patriotism. 


I'-v' 


THE'   END. 


♦""^Wl 


4 


the  advance- 
in  the  science 
1  diversity  of 
iWh  reference 
I  the  tender 
hecies  of  its 
rafick  parly, 
ily,  and  their 
ts  home  the 
nieslick  diffi- 
und  service- 
I  clHim  from 
(Totive  beue- 


jers  of  Aineri- 
vas  the  Burke 
,  and  higiily 
nation,  united 
isibility.  He 
coloured  feel- 
lied  the  deS- 
itastick  crea- 
on  had  doubt- 
tical  feelings 

go  even  be- 
s  too,  whose 
ficrefore  have 

but  to  revo- 
.  is  a  project 
lature.     Civil 

by  Kufllering 

comfortable 
,  which  i^ro- 
30S$essed  of; 
bility  of  this 

turn  a  hap- 
the  contrast 
usiy  striking. 
'  tbrebodings, 
pered  spirit, 
b  the  exhi- 
rest  feehngs 


.^. 


